Chapter VI
FROM NEAR MARTHA'S RIVER TO THE
MUSSELSHELL
VI. May 1–22, 1805
Wednesday 1st. day of May 1805
a CLEAR pleasant morning but cold. we Set off at Sun
rise, the wind from the east. we Sailed Some. we
passed high bluffs and round knobs on the S. S. and
bottoms of timber on each Side of the River. the hills in
general are not so high as they have been below, the country
more pleasant, and the timber more pleanty. about 12 oClock
the wind rose So high that we were oblidged to halt in a bottom
of timber on the South Side. one cannoe lay on the opposite
Shore & could not cross. I and one more was in the cannoe
and ware obledged to lay out all night without any blanket. it
being verry cold I Suffered verry much. Some of the party
went out to hunt. they killed one buffaloe one Deer 2 beaver
and one Goose. the party camped opposite to where I lay all
night the man who was with me killd. a Deer. (came only 10
miles to day)
Thursday 2nd.. May 1805.
at day light it began to Snow & blow So that we did not Set
off this morning. Some men went out to hunt. Killed Some
buffaloe & Some Deer. one of the party killd. two beaver last
night. the men who was out a hunting found Several peaces
of red cloath at an Indian camp, where we expect they left last
winter for a Sacrifice to their maker as that is their form of worship,
as they have Some knowledge of the Supreme being, and
anything above their comprihention they call big medicine.
about 3 oC the wind abated & quit Snowing. we Set off. proceeded
on. the [wind] had shifted and blew from the west.
the Snow lay on the Edge of the Sand beaches where the wind
blew it against the bank about 12 Inches Deep but their was
not more than about one Inch on a level. Cap
t. Clark & one
of the party Shot 3 beaver on the South Shore. the air verry
cold. we Camped on the N. S. at a handsom bottom partly
covered with timber. came 5 miles to day.
Friday 3rd.. May 1805.
clear but verry cold for this month. we Set off about 7 oC &
proceeded on the Standing water was froze over in places, &
forze to our poles as we were working along. a white frost
last night. the Ground is covered with Snow. the wind rose
high from the west. we halted about one oC. at a bottom
covd. with timber on the N. S. Capt. Clark who walked on
Shore Since morning came to us had killed an Elk near Some
men went & brought it in. one man went a Short distance
along the bank and Shot a beaver. we have Saw Great Sign
of beaver all day. the wind cold & high. we proceeded on
Saw a Great many buffaloe on the ridges & plains. the Snow
is all gone this evening. passed large bottoms & plains in the
course of the day but no high hills. passed a creek on the
S. S. Came 20 miles and Camped in a bottom on the N. S.
as we were a landing it being after dark Got the Irons broke
off the red perogue, which the rudder hung on. we passed a
creek towards evening on the N. S. which came in at a sand
bar. I forgot it.[1]
Saturday 4th.. May 1805.
clear & pleasant. we delayed Some time to mend the
rudder which Got broke last night. we Set off about 9 Oclock
and proceeded on. passed large bottoms covered with timber
on each Side and Smoth [smooth] high plains back from the
River. at a 11 oC. we passed the mouth of a Creek which
came in on S. Side of the Missourie. proceeded on passed a
beautiful plain on the N. S. where we Saw large Gangs of
buffaloe Elk & Cabberee or Goats. Camped in a bottom on
the N. S. Came 22 miles to dav. we killed two Deer
today.
Sunday 5th.. May 1805.
Clear and pleasant. we Set off eairly. one of the hunters,
lay on the S.S. last night, joined us at break fast-time had
killed two buffaloe Calfs. we proceeded on. Saw buffaloe
Elk Deer & goats on each side of the River. passed bottoms
and plains on each side. at, 12 oC. we Saw 4 bair on a Sand
beach on S. S. passed a handsom large plain on the N. S. we
halted to dine on the South Side at a bottom of timber. Our
officers Gave out to the party a half a Gill of ardent spirits.
we Saw buffaloe and flocks of Goats. Jo. Fields verry sick.
we proceeded on. towards evening, we killed a verry large
bair in the River. the Natives call it white but it is of a light
brown coulour the measuer of the brown bair is as follows.
round the head is three-feet 5 Inches, d°. the neck 3 feet 11
Inches, d°. the breast 5 feet 10½ inches. also round the
middle of the arm one foot 11 inches. the length from the
nose to the extremity of the hind toe is 8 feet 7½ Inches.
the length of tallons 4 feet ⅜ Inches[2]
his teeth or tuskes
were allmost worn out. the toe nales ware worn Short. when
we got him to Shore we halted for the night on the N. S.
dressed the sd. brown bair found a fish in him, which he had
caught & eat. we rendred out about 6 Gallons of Greese and
did not render only a part of it he was not fat but reckened
to be about 600 weight as he was killed. one of the hunters
went out and killed an elk & Saw another bair nearly of the
Same discription. Came 16 miles this day.
Monday 6th.. May 1805.
clear pleasant and warm. the wind from the east. we Sailed
on verry well. Caught two beaver last night. Saw a brown
bair Swim the River before us. about 2 oC. we halted to dine
at a handsom bottom covered with timber on the N. S. Cap
t.
Clark killed an Elk, a light sprinkling of rain, but did not
last long. passed a bluff on S. S. and Some hills also. high
plains & bottoms on the N. Side and on the S. S. Came
about 27 miles in all this day, and Camped in a bottom of
timber on the S. Side. the bottoms is all trod up by the Game,
and different paths in all directions. &c. &c.
Tuesday 7th.. May 1805.
clear and pleasant. we Set off eairly. the wind rose from
the East. we Sailed on untill about 12 oC. the wind rose so
high that one of the cannoes filled with water we got it Safe
to Shore, and halted for the wind to abate on the S. Side.
Some men went out to hunt. two beaver was caught by Some
of the men last night and Shot five more at this place. about
4 oC. we Set off and proceeded on verry well. passed handsom
plains and bottoms on N. S. rough hills & ridges & bottoms
on the S. S. Saw large gangs of buffaloe on each Side of the
River. Came 15 ½ miles to day, & Camped on the S. S.
Capt. Clark and one hunter killed two buffaloe which we found
to be good meat to Eat.
Wednesday 8th.. May 1805.
we Set off eairly. clouded up and rained Some the current
Swift. we proceeded on under a fine breeze from the East,
20 mls.. by about 1 oClock then we passed the mouth of a
River on N. S. about 200 yards wide and verry deep. it is
2100 miles from the mouth of the Missourie R. to the mouth
of this River. we named this River Scolding or milk River.
we halted on the point above the mouth to dine. Some men
went a Short distance up this River. one of them killed a
deer. about 2 oClock we proceeded on passed handsom
bottoms thinly covered with timber on the River and high
beautiful high plains on the N. S. and River hills on the S. S.
Came 27 miles this day and Camped on a timbred bottom on
the S. S. one man killd. a beaver. we Saw a Great deal of
beaver Sign all Sorts of Game on each Side R.[iver]
Thursday 9th.. May 1805.
clear and pleasant. we Set off at Sun rise and proceeded on
about 9 oC. we halted to take breakfast in a beautiful Smoth
bottom thinly or partly covred with timber on the S. S. Capt.
Clark killed two deer. the Game is getting So pleanty and
tame in this country that Some of the men has went up near
enofe to club them out of their way. about one oC. we passed
the mouth of a large River which came in on the S. S. it is
at high water mark about 437 yards wide, but the water at
this Season of the year Sinques in the quick Sand So that
their is none to be Seen at the mouth. this River is called
[blank space in MS.][3]
we halted to dine. Some of the
party killed two buffaloe. proceeded on passed large bottoms
covred with timber on each Side of the River Saw large gangs
of buffaloe and elk on the Side of the hills in the bottoms and
on the plains. Came 25 miles to day and Camped at the
mouth of a creek (named warners River) on the N. S. Saw
great deal of beaver Sign in the course of the day. the country
for Several days back is pleasant, the Soil good, & the Game
pleanty.
Friday 10th.. May 1805.
clear and cold. we Set of[f] about Sun rise and proceeded
on. the wind rose from the N. W. came about 4 miles and
halted for the wind to abate at a bottom covred with timber
on the S. S. where the beaver had eat down considerable of a
peace of Small timber Several of the party went out to hunt
the wind rose high Some Squawls of rain. one of the men
caught a nomber of fish. the hunters killed 1 fat buffaloe 4
beaver, and 3 Deer. Some of them Saw Some mooce Deer
which was much larger than the common deer. our officers
Inspected our arms &c. Camped here for the night.
Saturday 11th.. May 1805.
a clear cold morning, a white frost last night. Some of the
party caught 2 beaver last night. we Set off eairly, and proceeded
on passed black bluffs on the S. S. and hills on each
Side partly covred with low ceeder. we Saw large gangs of
buffaloe in the bottoms on Each Side of the River. towards
evening one of the party wounted a brown bair, and was
chased by it to the perogues. Several hunters went to his
assistance and killed it it was nearly of the same discription
as the other we killed Several days ago. we fount it fat and
good meat. Cap
t. Clark who walked on Shore killed 2 buffaloe
and 2 deer (one beaver also). one of the men kill
d.
another buffaloe. we Saw hills on the N. S. partly covred
with pitch pine the first we have Seen. the country begins
to be hilley and broken, but verry rich Soil the bottoms on
the River chiefly covred with cottonwood timber, which is
filled with Game Some Smoth plains under the hills covred
with wild hysop. we came 17 miles and Camped on the
South Side before night on account of dressing the bair, which
detained us untill night &c. passed 2 or 3 small runs to
day, &c.
Sunday 12th.. May 1805.
a clear pleasant warm morning. we Set off Soon after Sun
rise and proceeded on. passed the pitch pine hills on the
N. S. one of the hunters killed a deer in a bottom on the S. S.
Capt. Clark killed a beaver in the River. passed a Small River
on the N. S. the wind rose high from the N. W. we halted
about one oC. to dine on the S. S. opposite the lower point
of an Island covred with willows in the middle of the River.
the wind detained us the remainder of the day. Some men
went out hunting & killed Some Elk & Deer. Camped for
the night. had come [blank space in MS.] miles this day.
Squwls of rain this evening. &c.
Monday 13th.. May 1805.
the wind blew hard all last night. Some rain high wind and
Squawls of rain this morning, So that we did not Set off eairly.
Some men went out hunting and killed Several Elk and deer.
about 2 oC. p. m. the weather cleared off pleasant. the wind
abated and we Set off Some of the hunters had not returned.
we proceeded on the current Swift passed hills on each Side
which make near the River only the bottoms on the points &
in the bends. came 9 miles and camped in a bottom on S. S.
the hunters joined us one of them had wounded a white or
brown bear. we passed a creek at the lower end of this
bottom, the Current verry Swift in the Missourie, came
about 9 miles this day.
Tuesday 14th.. May 1805.
a hard white frost last night. our mocasons froze near the
fire. a clear and pleasant morning. we Set off at Sun rise
and proceeded on passed the mouth of a large creek on N. S.
named [blank space in MS.][4]
and a Small willow Island ab v
the mouth of Sd. creek we Saw verry large gangs of buffaloe,
on N. S. high rough black hills on each Side of the River.
Some Spots of pitch pine on the hills on each Side of the
River. about 1 oC. we halted to dine at [a] timbred bottom
on the S. S. Capt. Clark killed a buffaloe about 2 oC. we
proceeded. we had passed the mouth of a large creek this
fore noon on S. S. Sergt. Gass Saw Some banks of Snow on
the N. Side of Some hills. about 4 oClock P. M. we passed
the mouth of a large creek on S. S. 100 yards wide at high
water mark. we proceeded on at 5 oC. we Saw a verry large
brown bear on the hills on S. S. Six men went from the
cannoes to kill him they fired at him and only wounded
him he took after them and chased 2 men in to a cannoe.
they Shoved off in the River and fired at him Some of the
men on Shore wounded him worse he then chased one man
down a Steep bank in to the River and was near gitting hold
of him, but he kept up Stream So that the bear could not git
up to him. one of the men on Shore Shot the bear in the
head, which killed him dead after having nine balls Shot in
him. we got him to Shore and butchered him. his feet was
nine Inches across the ball, and 13 in length, nearly of the
Same discription of the first we killed only much larger his
nales was Seven Inches long &c. the two captains ware out on
Shore after a verry large gang of buffaloe the white perogue
of the captains hoisted Sail as the wind blew fair. a violent
Storm of wind arose from a black cloud in the N. W. the
wind shifted in[to] N. W. and took the Sail of a Sudden and
had it not been for the eairning [awning] and mast She would
have turned up side down. She filled ful of water with
much trouble they got her to Shore and unloaded hir found
that the most of the loading was wet the Medicine Spoiled
or damaged very much Some of the paper and nearly all the
books got wet, but not altogether Spoiled. we opened all the
loading, on the bank and Camped at a bottom covred with
timber on the N. S. our officers gave each man a draghm of
ardent Spirits, Came 18½ miles this day. (1 man wounded
another bear).
Wednesday 15th.. May 1805.
cloudy. we delayed to dry the goods which was wet, opened
them but Soon had to cover them again for a Shower of rain which
lasted about one hour, then we opened them again. Several
men out a hunting, they all returned towards evening. had
killed one buffaloe 7 Deer and 4 beaver. Stayed here all day
& dressed Skins &c.
Thursday 16th.. May 1805.
a heavy diew last night a clear pleasant morning. we
opened the goods &c. in order to get them dry before we
packed them up. Some of the men wounded a large panther
in this bottom, as he was coverring up a deer which he had
killed not long before. about 12 oClock Sergt. Ordway killed
a cabberree or antelope, a Specie of our goats. one of the
party killed another which was mired in the mud. about one
oC. we packed up our goods and loaded the officers perogue.
about 3 oClock P. M. we set off and proceeded on. passed
high broken hills & round knobs on each Side of the River and
narrow bottoms. passed a Small willow Island near the N. S.
we halted a fiew minutes at a bottom on N. S. and killed 2 buffaloe,
3 Deer and one buffaloe calf. Camped on the S. S. at a
bottom covered with timber. came 7 miles to day.
Friday 17th.. May 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. we Set off eairly and proceeded
on. passed high broken whiteish couloured hills, which wash
by rain, and make close to the River on each Side, the bottoms
high and narrow. Some Spots of pitch pine on and between
the hills on each Side, but the cottonwood gits Scarser. we
Saw large gangs of Elk, but a fiew buffaloe. Saw a number of
geese and goslings on the river. about 2 oC. we halted to dine
at a Small bottom on S. S. where there was Some old Indian
Camps. about 3 oC. P. M. we proceeded on towards evening
we killed a brown bear, the first femal that we killed we
passed a creek on the S. S., & verry high rough naked hills on
each Side all this day. we Came 20 ¼ miles and Camped on a
narrow plain on the South Side. Killed 2 Elk.
Saturday 18th.. May 1805.
a clear warm morning. one of the party killed a rattle
snake. another caught a beaver. about 7 oC. we Set [out]
and proceeded on. passed Some narrow bottoms of timber &
covered with rose bushes. about 10 oC. clouded up and began
to rain. we had Several Small Showers. about 12 oC capt.
Clark killed a fat deer. we halted to dine and dry our Selves
at a large bottom covered with timber on N. S. this bottom
is filled with buffaloe Elk Deer &c one of the party killed 2
Elk. another killed a beaver. about 2 we proceeded on the
weather cleared up and we had a pleasant afternoon the River
water is gitting clear and gravelly bottom &c. we came 19
miles and Camped at a Smooth high bottom on S. S. N. B.
(Capt. Clark killed three deer)
Sunday 19th.. May 1805.
a heavy diew fell last night. a clear pleasant morning. we
Set off as usal and proceeded on passed pitch pine hills on
each Side of the river. about 10 oClock we killed a Small
female brown bear on S. S. we took on board the meat & Skin
and proceeded on. about 1 oC. we halted to dine at a bottom
on the N. Side. Capt. Clark killed 3 Deer. about 2 we proceeded
on passed a handsom willow Island near the N.S. of
River. passed pitch pine & ceeder hills as usal, & bottoms
of timber on each Side of the River. we Came about 18
Miles and Camped at a bottom on the N. Side, where Capt.
Lewis killed an Elk & Some of the men killed 3 Deer. Some
of the hunters killed 3 beaver to day.
Monday 20th.. May 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. we Set off as usal. one of the
hunters caught a beaver last night. abt. nine oC. we passed the
mouth of a Creek on the S. S. and a handsom bottom of c.[otton]
wood timber. one of the hunters killed a Deer another
killed a beaver. we proceeded on passed pitch pine & ceeder
hills on each Side [of the] River. about 11 oClock, we arived
at the mouth of Mussell Shell River on the S. S. this River is
110 yards wide and the Missourie 222 yards wide at this place,
and 2271 miles from the mouth of the Missourie River. we
encamped here on the point between the 2 rivers which is
a large bottom covered with C. wood timber. we delayed
here all day for observations &c. found the latitude 47°, 24′
North the hunters killed at this place Eight Deer 4 Elk one
woolf and remained here all the afternoon & Camped for the
night 2 men Stayed out hunting beaver all night. we came
only 6 miles this morning.
Tuesday 21st.. May 1805.
a clear pleasant morning. the 2 men returned who Stayed
out all night had caught one beaver & killed a Deer. they
Swam across the Mussel Shell River before Sun rise. Soon
after we Set off. another beaver was caught we proceeded on.
passed timbred bottoms & hilly land on each Side, but the
River hills are not So high, as they were for Some distance below.
Some of the party yesterday discovered a high range of
mountains to the west, a long distance off. we Saw Some old
Indian Camps in a timbred bottom on N. S. where Capt. Clark
killed an Elk. about 1 oC. P. M. we halted to dine at a handsom
timbred bottom on the South Shore. one of the hunters
killed an Elk. the wind rose So high from the N. W. that we
delayed about 2 hours and proceeded on passed bottoms & pine
hills as usal. Came about 15 Miles and Camped on a large
Sand beach on N. S. one of the hunters killed a buffaloe another
killed a beaver. the wind rose verry high Soon after we
Camped, and made the Sand fly So that it was verry disagreeable
the most of the party moved back towards the hills.
Wednesday 22nd.. May 1805.
the wind blew hard all last night (caught 2 beaver last night)
and continues blowing this morning. Cloudy. about 11 oC.
A. M. the wind abated So that we Set off and proceeded on
passed a Small Island near N. S. and one Near the S. Side. the
River hills make near the River. passed black bluffs the pitch
pine close along Sd. bluffs to the bank of the River. passed a
Creek on the N. S. we wounded a brown bear in the River.
abt. 2 oC. we halted to dine at a handsom timbred bottom on
the N. S. a cold chilly day. towards evening Some of the
hunters killed a large brown bear. we Saved the Skin & greese.
we Camped on the N. S. Came 16½ Miles to day. Sergt.
Ordway and one of the hunters killed a large buffaloe.
