Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents |
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 | Chapter XXXIII Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 |  |
[Clark:]
Monday 1st of September 1806
MUSQUITORS very troublesom last night, we set
out at the usial hour and had not proceeded on far
before the fog became so thick that we were oblige[d]
to come too and delay half an hour for the fog to pass off which
it did in some measure and we again proceded on R. [and]
Jo. Fields and Shannon landed on an Island [Ponceras][1]
to try
to kill Some deer which was seen on the beech and the Canoes
all passed them at 9 A. M we passed the enterance of River
Quiequur [Qui Court, or Niobrara] which had the Same
appearance it had when we passed up water rapid and of a milky
white colour about two miles below the Quicurre, 9 Indians
ran down the bank and beckened to us to land, they appeared
to be a war party, and I took them to be Tetons and paid no
kind of attention to them further than an enquirey to what
tribe they belonged, they did not give me any answer, I prosume
they did not understand the man who Spoke to them
as he Spoke but little of their language. as one canoe was yet
behind we landed in an open commanding Situation out of
sight of the indians deturmined to delay untill they came up.
about 15 minits after we had landed Several guns were fired by
the indians, which we expected was at the three men behind.
I calld out 15 men and ran up with a full deturmination to
cover them if possible let the number of the indians be what
they might. Capt. Lewis hobled up on the bank and formed
the remainder of the party in a Situation well calculated to defend
themselves and the Canoes &c. when I had proceeded to the
above & the indians where we had left them. I then walked
on the Sand beech and the indians came down to meet me I
gave them my hand and enquired of them what they were
Shooting at, they informed me that they were Shooting off
their guns at an old Keg which we had thrown out of one of
the Canoes and was floating down. those indians informed
me they were Yanktons, one of the men with me knew one
of the Indians to be the brother of young Durion's wife.[2] finding
those indians to be Yanktons I invited them down to the
boats to Smoke. when we arived at the Canoes they all
eagerly Saluted the Mandan Chief, and we all set and smoked
Several pipes. I told them that we took them to be a party
of Tetons and the fireing I expected was at the three men in
the rear Canoe and I had went up with a full intention to kill
them all if they had been tetons & fired on the canoe as we
first expected, but finding them Yanktons and good men we
were glad to see them and take them by the hand as faithfull
Children who had opened their ears to our Councils. one of
them Spoke and Said that their nation had opened their years
& done as we had directed them ever since we gave the Meadel
to their great Chief, and should continue to do as we had told
them we enquired if any of their chiefs had gone down with
Mr. Durion, the[y] answered that their great Chief and many
of their brave men had gone down, that the white people had
built a house near the Mahar village where they traded.[3] we
tied a piece of ribon to each mans hair and gave them some
corn of which they appeared much pleased. The Mandan
chief gave a par of elegant Legins to the principal man of the
indian party, which is an indian fashion (to make presents) the
Canoe & 3 men haveing joined us we took our leave of this
party telling them to return to their band and listen to our
of 80 Lodges were on plum creek[4] a fiew miles to the
north. those nine men had five fusees and 4 bows & quivers
of arrows. at 2 P. M. we came too on the upper point
of bon homme opposit the antient fortification and sent
out men to hunt on each Side and on the island. and the
canoes on each Side of the island to receive any meat which
might be killed I walked on the N. E. main Shore found
the bottom rich and thickly covered with Peavine rich weed
grass interwoven in Such a manner with grape vines that I
could not get through, and was obliged to assend a high
plain the passing through which I also found tiresom. the
grass was nearly as high as my head and the musquitors
excessively bad. at the lower point of the Island all the
canoes & hunters came together. Labeech killed an Elk
only the flesh of which was brought on in the perogue. at
this Island we brought 2 years together or on the 1st. of
Sepr. 1804 we Encamped at the lower point of this Island.
after we all came together we again proceeded on down to a
large Sand bar imediately opposit to the place where we met
the Yanktons in council at the Calumet Bluffs and which place
we left on the 1t. of Septr. 1804. I observed our old flag Staff
or pole Standing as we left it. the Musquitors excessively
troublesom untill about 10 P. M. when the S W wind became
Strong and blew the most of them off. we came 52 miles to
day only with a head wind. the country on either Side are
butifull and the plains much richer below the Quequer river
than above that river.
For the Dorions, father and son, see our vol. i, pp. 47, 128. The squaw of
the younger Dorion accompanied him on the overland Astorian expedition, and had
a thrilling adventure upon the Boise River, Idaho. See "Franchère's Narrative" in
Thwaites, Early Western Travels, vi, pp. 342–344. She was still living in Oregon
as late as 1850.—Ed.
For some years past, this had been a favorite site for traders. See Cruzatte's
experience here, as instanced in our vol. i, p. 99.—Ed.
By some inadvertence, Coues (L, and C., iii, p. 1201) seeks to identify this with
the White Paint Creek of Sept. 4, 1804. Clark named it Plum Creek, September 3;
see our vol. i, p. 138.—Ed.
Tuesday 2nd. of September 1806
Set out at the usial hour passed the River Jacque [James]
at 8 A. M. in the first bottom below on the N E. Side I
observed the remains of a house which had been built since we
with the Yanktons in the Winter of 1804 & 5. the wind was
hard a head & continued to increas which obliged us to lay by
nearly all day. as our Store of meat [was small], I took with
me 8 men and prosued a Small Gang of Cows in the plains 3
miles and killed two which was in very good order, had them
butchered and each man took a load as much as he could carry
and returned to the Canoes, the wind Still high and water
rough we did not Set out untill near Sun Set we proceded
to a Sand bar a short distance below the place we had come
too on account of the wind and Encamped on a Sand bar, the
woods being the harbor of the musquitors and the party without
the means of Screaning themselves from those tormenting
insects. on the Sand bars the wind which generaly blows
moderately at night blows off those pests and we Sleep Soundly.
The wind continued to blow hard from the same point S. E.
untill 3 P.M. I saw in my walk to day Lynn and Slipery
Elm. the plains are tolerably leavel on each Side and very
fertile. I saw 4 prarie fowls Common to the Illinois, those
are the highest up which have been seen, White Oak is very
common also white ash on the riveens and high bottoms. two
turkys killed to day of which the Indians very much admired
being the first which they ever Saw. Capt. L. is mending fast
we made only 22 Miles to day.
Both Lewis and Clark had known Robert McClellan while he served as a scout in
Wayne's army (1794–95). See Roosevelt, Winning of the West, iv, pp. 80–82, on
this portion of his career. Removing to St. Louis, he entered upon the fur trade, forming
(1807) a partnership with Ramsay Crooks, and later embarking in the Astorian
enterprise (1811). For his experiences in that expedition, see journals of Bradbury,
Brackenridge, Franchère, and Ross in Thwaites, Early Western Travels, v, vi, and
vii. Having crossed the continent amid innumerable hardships, he arrived at Astoria
in January, 1812, and spent nine months upon the return journey, arriving in St. Louis
April 30, 1813. His death occurred three years later.—Ed.
Wednesday 3rd September 1806
Wind continued to blow very hard this morning. it Shifted
last night to the S W. and blew the sand over us in Such a
manner as to render the after part of the night very disagreeable.
the wind luled a little and we Set out and proceeded on
on the N. E. Side[6] at 11 A M. and at half past 4 P.M we
Spied two boats & Several men, our party p[l]eyed their
ores and we soon landed on the Side of the Boats the men
of [these] boats Saluted us with their Small arms I landed
& was met by a Mr. James Airs from Mackanaw by way of
Prarie Dechien and St. Louis. this Gentleman is of the house
of Dickson & Co.[7] of Prarie de Chian who has a Licence to
trade for one year with the Sieoux he has 2 Batteaux loaded
with Merchendize for that purpose. This Gentleman receved
both Capt. Lewis and my self with every mark of friendship
he was himself at the time with a chill of the agu on him which
he has had for Several days. our first enquirey was after the
President of our country and then our friends and the State
of the politicks of our country &c. and the State [of] Indian
affairs to all of which enquireys Mr. Aires gave us as Satisfactory
information as he had it in his power to have collected in the
Illinois which was not a great deel. soon after we Landed a
violent Storm of Thunder Lightning and rain from the N. W.
which was violent with hard claps of thunder and Sharp Lightning
which continued untill 10 P M after which the wind blew
hard. I set up late and partook of the tent of Mr. Aires which
was dry. Mr. Aires unfortunately had his boat Sunk on the
25 of July last by a violent storm of Wind and hail by which
accident he lost the most of his usefull articles as he informed
us. this Gentleman informed us of maney changes & misfortunes
which had taken place in the Illinois amongst others
for this misfortune of our friend Choteaus I feel my self very
much concernd &c. he also informed us that Genl. Wilkinson
was the governor of the Louisiana and at St. Louis, 300 of the
american Troops had been cantuned on the Missouri a fiew
miles above it's mouth, Some disturbance with the Spaniards
in the Nackatosh [Natchitoches] Country is the cause of their
being called down to that country, the Spaniards had taken
one of the U. States frigates in the Mediteranean, Two British
Ships of the line had fired on an American Ship in the
port of New York, and killed the Capts. brother. 2 Indians
had been hung in St. Louis for murder and several others in
jale. and that Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel,
the latter was killed[9] &c. &c. I am happy to find that my
worthy friend Capt. L's is so well as to walk about with ease
to himself &c., we made 60 Miles to day the river much
crowded with Sand bars, which are very differently Situated
from what they were when we went up.
Clark appears to be in doubt as to the translation of the Indian word for this
stream. Aug. 24, 1804, he called it "White stone"; the following day, simply
"Stone River" (see our vol. i, pp. 119, 123). "Redstone" more nearly approaches
its present name—Vermilion River.—Ed.
Robert Dickson of Prairie du Chien was a prominent Canadian trader, and had
great influence with the Indians of Wisconsin and the Upper Mississippi country. In
the War of 1812–15, he and Clark were arrayed upon opposing sides of the struggle.
See his biography in Wis. Hist. Colls., xii, pp. 133–153, and papers in vols. x, xi,
xii, on the capture of Prairie du Chien.
James Aird was a Scotch trader, who early settled at that Wisconsin outpost,
dying there in 1819. He made frequent journeys up the Missouri, where Bradbury
met him in 1810 (see Thwaites, Early Western Travels, v, p. 87). He aided Dickson
on the British side in the War of 1812–15. Aird is described as a large man, of much
ability, highly respected both by whites and Indians.—Ed.
Pierre Chouteau, Jr., known as Pierre Cadet (Cady). He was born at St.
Louis in 1789, and spent two years (1806–09) with Julien Dubuque at the lead mines
on the Mississippi. Later, he embarked in the fur trade, and became one of the noted
merchants of St. Louis, and a member of the State Constitutional Convention (1820),
dying in 1865. His grandson Pierre is (1905) one of the most prominent citizens
of St. Louis, and active in the councils of the Missouri Historical Society.—Ed.
Gen. James Wilkinson was Governor of Louisiana Territory from July, 1805, to
July, 1807.
The duel between Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton, resulting in the latter's
death, occurred at Weehawken, near New York City, July 11, 1804.
At that time the relations of the United States with both England and Spain were
more or less strained, especially as English ships frequently impressed American sailors
—Proceedings which were among the causes of the War of 1812–15. The incident
to which reference is here made was the killing of John Pierce, seaman on the
"Richard," about two miles off Sandy Hook, by a shot from the British man-of-war
"Leander" (April 25, 1806). Great excitement was caused in New York, and
the funeral was the occasion of a popular demonstration, hostile to Great Britain.
The rumor of a ship being captured by Spaniards probably arose from the fact that
in the autumn of 1804 the U. S. frigate "President" was fired at by some Spanish
gunboats near the port of Algeciras, Spain.—Ed.
Thursday 4th September 1806.
The Musquitors became troublesom early this morning I
rose at the usial hour found all the party as wet as rain could
make them. as we were in want of some tobacco I purposed to
Mr. Airs to furnish us with 4 carrots for which we would Pay
the amount to any Merchant of St. Louis he very readily
much as it is necessary for them to use between this and St.
Louis, an instance of Generossity for which every man of the
party appears to acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our
accepting a barrel of flour. we gave to this gentleman what
corn we could Spear amounting to about 6 bushels, this corn
was well calculated for his purpose as he was about to make
his establishment and would have it in his power to hull the
corn &c. The flower was very acceptable to us we have yet
a little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as
high as Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c.
at 8 A. M. we took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on
very well, at 11 A. M. passed the Enterance of the big Sieoux
River which is low, and at meridian we came too at Floyds Bluff
below the Enterance of Floyds river and assended the hill, with
Capt. Lewis and Several men, found the grave had been opened
by the nativs and left half covered. we had this grave completely
filled up, and returned to the canoes and proceeded on
to the Sand bar on which we encamped from the 12th. to the
20th. of August 1804 near the Mahar Village, here we came
to and derected every wet article put out to dry, all the
bedding of the party and Skins being wet. as it was late in
the evening we deturmined to continue all night. had issued
to each man of the party a cup of flour. we See no Species
of Game on the river as usial except wild geese and pelicans.
I observed near Sergt. Floyds Grave a number of flurishing
black walnut trees, these are the first which I have seen
decending the river[10] . a little before night Several Guns
were heard below and in a direction towards the Mahar village
which induced us to suspect that Mr. McClellin who we was
informed was on his way up to trade with the Mahars had
arived at the Creek below and that those reports of Guns was
derected the Perogue & canoes to be loaded and in readiness
to Set out in the morning early. at dark the Musquetors
became troublesom and continued so all night the party
obtained but little Sleep we made 36 miles only to day.
For the death of Sergeant Charles Floyd, see our vol. i, p. 114. His journal is
given in our vol. vii.—Ed.
Friday 5th September 1806
The Musquetors being so excessively tormenting that the
party was all on board and we set out at day light and proceeded
on very well. here the river is bordered on both [sides]
with timber &c. becoms much narrower more crooked and
the current more rapid and crouded with Snags or Sawyers
than it is above, and continus So all day. We did not meet
with McClellin as we expected at the Creek. the report of
the guns which was heard must have been the Mahars who
most probably have just arrived at their village from hunting
the buffalow. this is a season they usialy return to their village
to secure their crops of corn Beens punkins &c &c. proceeded
on very well passd the blue Stone bluff[11]
at 3 P. M. here the
river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich
bottom. Encamped on the S. W. Side on a Sand bar at a
cut off a little below our Encampment of the 9th. of August
1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day. Capt. Lewis still in a
convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Shores to day
worth killing only such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and
Hawks &c.
A name not before given, although the bluff is noted Aug. 10, 1804, as a "clift
of Yellow Sand Stone." See our vol. i, p. 105.—Ed.
Saturday 6th. September 1806.
The Musquetors excessively troublesom we Set out early
at the great cut off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent
out Several hunters to kill Some of the Elk, they returned
without killing any as the Elk was wild and ran off much
fritened. I sent the two Small Canoes on a head with derections
to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a delay of half
an hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point
met a tradeing boat of Mr. Og. Choteaux [Auguste Chouteau]
of St. Louis bound to the River Jacque to trade with the
Yanktons, this boat was in care of a Mr. Henry Delorn,
[Delaunay?][12] he had exposed all his loading (to dry) and sent
out five of his hands to hunt they soon arived with an Elk.
we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man (promised to pay
Choteau who would not receive any pay) and gave to each man of
the party a dram which is the first spiritious licquor which had
been tasted by any of them since the 4 of July 1805. several
of the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver
for corse hats. Those men could inform us nothing more
than that all the troops had movd. from the Illinois and that
Genl. Wilkinson was prepareing to leave St. Louis. We advised
this trader to treat the Tetons with as much contempt as possible
and stated to him where he would be benefited by such
treatment &c &c. and at 1 P. M. set out those men gave us
2 Shots from a Swivell they had on the bow of their boat
which we returned in our turn. proceeded on about 3 miles
and came up with two of the hunters, they had not killd. any
thing. at 5 miles we over took the Canoe of the other hunters
with Shannon in it floating down, the two fields being in the
woods behind we came too on a Sand bar on the N. E. Side
and delayed all the after part of the [day] for the two Fields,
sent out 3 men to hunt in the bottom up the river and observe
if they Saw any sign of the hunters. the evening proved
cloudy and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed to
day. we came 30 Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not
join us I think they are below. The Chief & the Squaws
& children are awarey [a-weary] of their journey. Children
cry &c.
Sunday 7th September 1806.
as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were behind I
derected Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to continue untill meridian
and if those men did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if
we met with them at any Short distance a gun Should be fired
on about 8 miles by water and the distance through not
more than I mile when we saw the fire of those 2 men, I
derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed
on, and took the boys on board. they had killed nothing &
informed me they had been Some what almd. at our delay, that
the distance across from the little Sicoux river was about 1 ½
miles only, the bottoms thick and Grass very high. we proceeded
on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the evaperation on
this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we assended
this river, and it now appears to be greater than it was at that
time. I am obliged to replenish my ink Stand every day with
fresh ink at least 9/10 of which must evaperate. we proceded
on to a bottom on the S W side a little above the Soldiers
river and came too and Sent out all the hunters. they killed
3 Elk which was at no great distance we Sent out the men
and had the flesh brought in cooked and Dined. Sergt. Ordway
came up & after takeing a Sumptious Dinner we all Set
out at 4 P. M. wind a head as usial. at Dusk we came too
on the lower part of a Sand bar on the S W side found the
Musquetors excessively tormenting notwithstanding a Stiff
breeze from the S. E. a little after dark the wind increased
the Musquetors dispersed our Camp of this night is about 2
miles below our Encampment of the 4th of august 1804 assending
we came 44 miles to day only.
Munday 8th September 1806
Set out very early this morning, passed an old tradeing house
on the S W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at
11 A M we came too at the bluffs and Capt. Lewis and my
self walked up on the bluffs and around to examine the Country
and Situation more particularly, the Situation appeared to
us eaqually as eligable as when we passed up for an establishment,
the hill high and commanding with a high rich bottom
of great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being
anxious to get to the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers
very well, and we arived at our old encampment at White Catfish
from the 22th. to the 26th. of July 1804 here we encamped
haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at this place
does not appear to contain more water than it did 1000 Miles
above this, the evaperation must be emence;[13] in the last 1000
miles this river receives the water [of] 20 rivers and maney
Creeks Several of the Rivers large and the Size of this river or
the quantity of water does not appear to increas any.
The rate of evaporation in the region of the headwaters of the Missouri is
excessively high even in winter, and it becomes more rapid as you ascend the valley.
When the Chenook winds are blowing in winter, and the temperature is below freezing,
snow is observed to disappear as if by magic. Professor Newell tells me that there
is no probability that any water from the bed of the Missouri reaches the Dakota
sandstones, as they lie a full thousand or more feet below that level. The artesian
waters of the Dakotas come from the Black Hills region, where the Dakota sandstones
are exposed.—Prof. F. H. KING, Bureau of Soils, U. S. Department of Agriculture.
Tuesday 9th September 1806
Set out early at 8 A.M. passed the enterance of the great
river Platt which is at this time low the water nearly clear the
current turbelant as usial; the Sand bars which choked up the
Missouri and confined the [river] to a narrow Snagey Chanel
are wastd. a way and nothing remains but a fiew Small remains
of the bear [bar] which is covered with drift wood. below the
R. Platt the current of the Missouri becomes evidently more
rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad
to pass late in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie
and encamped imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th. and
17th. of July 1804. haveing made 73 miles only to day. The
river bottoms are extencive rich and covered with tall large
timber, and the hollows of the reveens may be Said to be
covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and some walnut
& hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on,
and every day appears [to] produce new anxieties in them to
get to their country and friends. My worthy friend Cap
Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds are heeled up and
he can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he could, the
parts are yet tender &c &c. The Musquetors are yet troublesom,
tho' not so much so as they were above the River platt.
Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights
are now so worm that I sleep comfortable under a thin blanket,
a fiew days past 2 was not more than sufficient.
Wednesday 10th September 1806.
we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very
well with wind moderately a head at [blank in MS.] P M we
met a Mr. Alexander La fass and three french men from
St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River Platt to
trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was
extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we
axcepted of a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our
party, Mr. la frost informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all
the troops had decended the Mississippi and Mr. Pike[14]
and
young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an expedition up the
Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of half an
hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue
and 7 Men from St Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose
of trade, this perogue was in Charge of a Mr. La Craw
(Croix)[15]
we made Some fiew enquiries of this man and again
proceeded on through a very bad part of the river crouded
with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4
miles above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this
timbered country narrow and more moveing Sands and a much
greater quantity of Sawyers or Snags than above. Great caution
and much attention is required to Stear clear of all those dificuelties
in this low State of the water. we made 65 miles to
day. We Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day
one of the men killed a racoon which the indians very much
admired.
Referring to the expedition undertaken by Captain (afterward General) Zebulon
M. Pike to explore the interior of the newly acquired Louisiana territory, especially
the region of the Red and Arkansas rivers. See his Expeditions (Phila., 1810) and
the later edition of that work by Coues (N. Y., 1895). Pike was accompanied by
James D., a son of Gen. James Wilkinson.—Ed.
A family of La Croix lived at Cahokia in the early days of American occupation,
and on several occasions proved serviceable to the first governor, John Todd.—Ed.
Thursday 11th Sept 1806.
a heavy cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill
after Sunrise at which time we set out and proceeded on very
well, passed the nemahar which was low and did not appear as
wide as when we passed up. Wolf river scercely runs at all,
at 3 P. M we halted a little above the Nadawa river on the S.
Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that which we killed a
fiew days past being all spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters they killed
and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles
below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near
the N. E. Side, haveing came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid
and in maney places crouded with Snag's. I observe on the
Shores much deer Sign the [musquitos] are no longer troublesome
on the river, from what cause they are noumerous above
and not so on this part of the river I cannot account. Wolves
were howling in different directions this evening after we had
encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves [so]
resembled those of our Common small Dogs that 3/4 of the
party believed them to be the dogs of Some boat assending
which was yet below us. the barking of those little wolves I
have frequently taken notice of on this as also the other Side of
the Rocky mountains, and their bark so much resembles or
Sounds to me like our common Small cur dogs that I have frequently
mistaken them for that Species of dog. The papaws
nearly ripe.
Friday 12th of September 1806
a thick fog a little before day which blew of[f] at day light,
a heavy Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the usial
hour and proceeded on very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues
from St. Louis one contained the property of Mr. Choteau
bound to the panias or River Platt, the other going up trapping
as high as the Mahars. here we met one of the french
men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he
informed us that Mr. McClellan was a fiew miles below the
wind blew a head soon after we passed those perogues, we
Saw a man on Shore who informed us that he was one of
we took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr.
Mc.Clellin[16] at the St. Michls. Prarie we came too here we
found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the Ricaras enterpreter whome we had
Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the Spring of 1805.[17] and
old M. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined the instructions
of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was
ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the
U. States to that nation and some presents which had been
given the Ricara Chief who had visited the U. States and unfortunately
died at the City of Washington, he was instructed
to teach the Ricaras agriculture & make every enquirey after
Capt. Lewis my self and the party. Mr. Durion was enstructed
to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him with
his presents &[c.] by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale
on Some of the Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding
six to Visit the Seat of the Government next Spring. he was
also enstructed to make every enquirey after us. we made
Some Small addition to his instructions by extending the
number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from each band including
the Yanktons &c. Mr. Mc.Clellin receved us very politely,
and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken
place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing
to be wet and cloudy we concluded to continue all night,
we despatched the two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters
in them [blank space in MS. for half a page.]
Saturday 13th. September 1806
rose early Mr. McClellen (an old acquaintance in the army)
gave each man a Dram and a little after Sunrise we Set out
the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A. M. we landed
at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head, they
had killed nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed
in Safty through the eme[n]city of Snags which was imediately
below we concluded to lye by and Sent on the Small canoes
men in the bottom they soon returned with one turky and
informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was
impossible to kill any deer. I felt my self very unwell and
derected a little Chocolate which Mr. Mc.Clellin gave us, prepared
of which I drank about a pint and found great relief. at
11 A. M. we proceeded on about 1 mile and come up with the
hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed until 5 P. M.
when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on down
a fiew miles and encamped on the N. E. Side of the Missouri
haveing decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably
worm. one man George Shannon left his horn and pouch
with his powder ball and knife and did not think of it untill
night. I walked in the bottom in the thick rushes and the
Growth of timber Common to the Illinois such as cotton wood,
Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different species, walnut,
hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, prickly ash,
&c and Grape vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most
common the buzzard crow the hooting owl and hawks, &c &c
Sunday 14th Septr 1806
Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the
part of the Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this season
of the year for the purpose of robbing the perogues passing up
to other nations above, we have every reason to expect to meet
with them, and agreeably to their common custom of examining
every thing in the perogues and takeing what they want
out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those liberties
with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for
the Smallest insult we shall fire on them. at 2 P. M. a little
below the lower [end] of the old Kanzas Village we met three
large boats bound to the Yanktons and Mahars the property
of Mr. Lacroy, Mr Aiten & Mr. Coutau all from St. Louis,
those young men received us with great friendship and pressed
on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, &
part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those
boats, makeing every enquirey into the state of our friends
with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer on the banks and in the
river to day 5 of which we killed those deer were Meager.
we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river
below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped
haveing decended only 53 miles to day. our party received
a dram and Sung Songs until 11 oClock at night in the
greatest harmoney.
Monday 15th of September 1806
we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several
deer Swiming the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A. M.
passed the enterance of the Kanzas river which was very low,
about a mile below we landed and Capt. Lewis and my self
assended a hill which appeared to have a commanding situation
for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky imediately at the
foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect
command of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a
view of the Missouri a Short distance above that river. we
landed one time only to let the men geather Pappaws or the
custard apple of which this country abounds, and the men are
very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a Small Island,
and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they soon
came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine
order we had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds
were unfavourable the greater part of the day we only decended
49 Miles and encamped a Short distance Above Hay cabin
Creek. we are not tormented by the Musquetors in this
lower portion of the river, as we were above the river platt
and as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that
river, and above its' enterance into the Missouri. we passd. some
of the most charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by
no means bad, all well timberd. the weather disagreeably worm
and if it was not for the constant winds which blow from the
S and S E. we should be almost suficated comeing out of a
northern Country open and Cool between the Latds. of 46d. and
49th North in which we had been for nearly two years, rapidly
the Latds. 38° & 39° North is probably the cause of our experiencing
the heat much more senceable than those who have
continued within the paralel of Latitude.
Tuesday 16th. September 1806
we Set out early this morning and proceded on tolerably
well the Day proved excessively worm and disagreeable, so
much so that the men rowed but little, at 10 A. M. we met
a large tradeing perogue bound for the Panias we continued
but a Short time with them. at 11 A. M we met young
Mr. Bobidoux[18]
with a large boat of six ores and 2 canoes, the
licenes of this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars
and ottoes reather an extroardanary a license for [so] young a
man and without the Seal of the teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkinsons
Signeture was not to this instrement we were somewhat
doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signiture we were not
acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. We made Some
enquireys of this young man and cautioned him against prosueing
the Steps of his brother in attempting to degrade the
American Charector in the eyes of the Indians. we proceeded
on to an Island a little above our encampment of the 16th. &
17th. of June 1804 haveing came 52 miles only to day.
The Robidoux were a well-known family of French Canadians, whose father,
Joseph, came early from Montreal to Kaskaskia and acquired a competence by fur
trading. At his house in St. Louis the first territorial legislature of Missouri was held
(1812). Joseph, Jr., born in St. Louis, 1783, had already erected a post (1800) upon
the site of the present city of St. Joseph, Mo., and later was its first permanent settler,
maintaining a store and trading-post for the American Fur Company (1826–30). He
died in the city which he founded, in 1868. Another brother, Antoine, was a
famous scout and trader on the Santa Fé trail, accompanying General Kearny to
California.—Ed.
Wednesday 17th September 1806
We Set out as usial early pass the Island of the little osage
Village which is considered by the navigater[s] of this river to
be the worst place in it. at this place [the] water of the
Missouri is confined between an Island and the S E main
Shore and passes through a narrow chanel for more than 2
miles which is crouded with Snags in maney places quit[e]
across obligeing the navigater to pick his passage between those
Snags as he can, in maney places the current passing with great
velocity against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11
A. M. we met a Captain Mc.Clellin late a Capt. of Artily. of the
U States Army[19]
assending in a large boat. this gentleman an
acquaintance of my friend Capt. Lewis was Somewhat astonished
to see us return and appeared rejoiced to meet us. we found
him a man of information and from whome we received a partial
account of the political State of our country, we were makeing
enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night.
this Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given
out [up] by the people of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton,
the President of the U. States had yet hopes of us;
we received some civilities of Capt. Mc.Clellin, he gave us Some
Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for which our party
were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel of corn
& much obliged to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he
was on reather a speculative expedition to the confines of New
Spain, with the view to entroduce a trade with those people.
his plan is to proceede up this river to the Enterance of the
river platt there to form an establishment from which to trade
partially with the Panas & Ottoes, to form an acquaintance
with the Panias and provail [on] Some of their principal Chiefs
to accompany him to Santa Fee where he will appear in a stile
calculated to atract the Spanish government in that quarter
and through the influence of a handsome present he expects
to be promited to exchange his merchindize for Silver & gold
of which those people abound. he has a kind of introductory
Speach from Govr. Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a
quantity of presents of his own which he purposes distributing
to the Panias and ELeatans[20]
with a view to gain their protection
in the execution of his plans, if the Spanish Governmt.
favour his plans, he purpose takeing his merchendize on mules
point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within the Louisiana
Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico
may meet him for the purpose of trade &c. Capt. Mc.Clellins
plan I think a very good one if strictly prosued &c.
Thursday 18th of September 1806
we rose early Capt. McClellin wrote a letter and we took
our leave, and proceeded on passed the Grand river at 7
A. M. a Short distance below we came up with our hunters,
they had killed nothing. at 10 oClock we came too and
gathered pottows [papaws] to eate we have nothing but a
fiew Buisquit to eate and are partly compelled to eate poppows
which we find in great quantities on the Shores, the weather
we found excessively hot as usial. the lands fine particularly
the bottoms. a charming Oake bottom on the S. E. Side of
the Missouri above the 2 charletons rivers we find the current
of this part of the Missouri much more jentle than it was as
we assended, the water is now low and where it is much confin'd
it is rapid. we saw very little appearance of deer, saw
one bear at a distance and 3 turkeys only to day. our party
entirely out of provisions subsisting on poppaws. we divide[d]
the buiskit which amounted to nearly one buisket per man,
this in addition to the poppaws is to last us down to the
Settlement's which is 150 miles the party appear perfectly
contented and tell us that they can live very well on the
pappaws. we made 52 miles to day only. one of our party
J. Potts complains very much of one of his eyes which is burnt
by the Sun from exposeing his face without a cover from the
Sun. Shannon also complains of his face & eyes &c. Encamped
on an Island nearly opposit to the enterance of Mine
river.
Friday 19th. of Septr. 1806.
Set out this morning a little after day & proceeded on very
well the men plyd their oares & we decended with great velocity,
only came too once for the purpose of gathering pap-pows,
our anxiety as also the wish of the party to proceed
on as expeditiously as possible to the Illinois enduce us to
continue on without halting to hunt. we calculate on ariveing
at the first Settlements on tomorrow evening which is 140
miles, and [the] objecet of our party is to divide the distance
into two days, this day to the Osarge River, and tomorrow to
the Charreton a Small french Village. we arived at the Enterance
of Osage River at dark and encamped on the Spot we
had encamped on the 1st. & 2nd. of June 1804 haveing came 72
miles. a very singular disorder is takeing place amongst our
party that of the Sore eyes. three of the party have their eyes
inflamed and Sweled in Such a manner as to render them extreamly
painfull, particularly when exposed to the light, the
eye ball is much inflaimed and the lid appears burnt with the
Sun, the cause of this complaint of the eye I can't [account]
for. from it's sudden appearance I am willing to believe it
may be owing to the reflection of the sun on the water.
Saturday 20th Septr. 1806
as three of the party was unabled to row from the State of
their eyes we found it necessary to leave one of our crafts and
divide the men into the other Canoes, we left the two Canoes
lashed together which I had made high up the River Rochejhone,
those Canoes we Set a drift and a little after day light
we Set out and proceeded on very well. The Osage river [is]
very low and discharges but a Small quantity of water at this
time for so large a river. at meridian we passed the enterance
of the Gasconnade river below which we met a perogue with
5 french men bound to the Osarge Gd. village. the party being
extreemly anxious to get down ply their ores very well, we
saw some cows on the bank which was a joyfull Sight to the
party and caused a Shout to be raised for joy at [blank in
MS.] P M we came in Sight of the little french Village called
upon their ores and we soon landed opposit to the Village.[21]
our party requested to be permited to fire off their Guns
which was alowed & they discharged 3 rounds with a harty
cheer, which was returned from five tradeing boats which lay
opposit the village. we landed and were very politely received
by two young Scotch men from Canada one in the employ of
Mr. Aird a Mr. [blank space in MS.] and the other Mr. Reed,
two other boats the property of Mr Lacomb & Mr. [blank
space in MS.] all of those boats were bound to the Osage
and Ottoes. those two young Scotch gentlemen furnished us
with Beef flower and some pork for our men, and gave us a
very agreeable supper. as it was like to rain we accepted of
a bed in one of their tents. we purchased of a citizen two
gallons of Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged
to give Eight dollars in Cash, an imposition on the part of the
citizen. every person, both French and americans seem to
express great pleasure at our return, and acknowledged themselves
much astonished in seeing us return. they informed us
that we were supposed to have been lost long since, and were
entirely given out by every person &c.
Those boats are from Canada in the batteaux form and wide
in perpotion to their length. their length [is] about 30 feet
and the width 8 feet & pointed bow and stern, flat bottom
and rowing six ores only the Skenackeity [Schenectady] form.
those Bottoms are prepared for the navigation of this river, I
beleive them to be the best calculated for the navigation of this
river of any which I have Seen[22]
. they are wide and flat not
are on this river. the American inhabitants express great
disgust for the govermt. of this Teritory. from what I can
lern it arises from a disapmt. of getting all the Spanish Grants
Confirmed[23] . Came 68 ms day.
For an account of this last white settlement upon the Missouri, see our vol. i,
pp. 28, 29. La Charette was founded early in the Spanish regime (probably about
1766), and for many years maintained a precarious existence. When Brackenridge
passed (1810), there were thirty houses. The site has long since been engulfed in the
river. It was near the present Marthasville, Warren County. As evidence of the
rapid increase of settlement, the travellers of 1810 found pioneer outposts nearly up
to Fort Osage, two hundred and seventy-five miles above La Charette. See Thwaites,
Early Western Travels, v, vi.—Ed.
Schenectady boats were almost exclusively used on the Canadian waterways.
See "Long's Voyages," in Early Western Travels, ii, p. 213. Stoddard, Sketches
of Louisiana, p. 303, compares favorably the efficiency of these craft with the usual
Missouri keel-boats.—Ed.
The Spanish grant question was difficult to adjust. In the latter years of the
occupancy by Spain (after 1795), inducements were held out to American immigrants.
Large grants were made to them without surveys, and with but the written
or verbal permission of the Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Louisiana; complete titles
could be obtained only at New Orleans. As most of the settlers were too poor to undertake
this expensive journey, probably not one-fourth of the land was held by perfect
titles. After the rumor of French domination began to spread (1800), large numbers
of fraudulent grants were made (see report of Major Stoddard, in American State
Papers, "Public Lands," i, pp. 173, 177); whereupon Congress (in the act of
March 26, 1804), in organizing the newly acquired territory, declared all grants of
public land after the treaty of San Ildefonso (1800) null and void, with, however, a
proviso to protect bona fide settlers. The dissatisfaction of the inhabitants of Upper
Louisiana found expression in a petition to Congress, January, 1805 (American State
Papers, "Miscellaneous," vol. i, pp. 400–406). Two months later, Congress passed
an act providing for a commission to adjust titles and take evidence upon claims.
The President appointed to this duty John B. C. Lucas, Clement B. Penrose, and
James Lowry Donaldson—the last-named being superseded by Frederick Bates—which
commission met for the first time in St. Louis on the very day Clark penned the
above observation on the existing discontent. The commission continued its work
until 1812, when a report was made to Congress, adjusting many hundreds of titles.
For this report see American State Papers, "Public Lands," ii, pp. 388–603.—Ed.
Sunday 21st Septr. 1806
rose early this morning colected our men several of them
had axcepted of the invitation of the citizens and visited their
families. at half after 7 A. M we Set out. passed 12 canoes
of Kickapoos assending on a hunting expedition. Saw Several
persons also stock of different kind on the bank which reviv'd
the party very much. at 3 P M we met two large boats
assending. at 4 P M we arived in Sight of St. Charles, the
party rejoiced at the Sight of this hospita[b]l[e] village plyed
thear ores with great dexterity and we Soon arived opposit the
Town this day being Sunday we observed a number of
Gentlemen and ladies walking on the bank, we saluted the
Village by three rounds from our blunderbuts and the Small
arms of the party, and landed near the lower part of the town.
we were met by great numbers of the inhabitants, we found
of those Gentlemen a Mr. Proulx, Taboe, Decett, Tice Dejonah
& Quarie and several who were pressing on us to go to their
houses, we could only visit Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett in
the course of the evening[24] . Mr. Querie under took to Supply
our party with provisions &c. the inhabitants of this village
appear much delighted at our return and seem to vie with each
other in their politeness to us all. we came only 48 miles to
day. the banks of the river thinly settled &c. (some Settlements
since we went up)
Probably Basil Proulx, one of the early inhabitants of St. Charles; and Francis
Duquette, who came from Quebec to the Illinois (1774), and settling first at Ste.
Geneviève, removed to St. Charles about 1796, where he died in 1816. He was the
most prominent trader and land-holder of the village, and first judge of the district.
See our vol. i, p. 18.—Ed.
Monday 22nd.. of Septr. 1806
This morning being very wet and the rain Still continueing
hard, and our party being all sheltered in the houses of those
hospitable people, we did not [think] proper to proceed on
until after the rain was over, and continued at the house of
Mr. Proulx. I took this oppertunity of writeing to my friends
in Kentucky &c. at 10 A M. it seased raining and we colected
our party and Set out and proceeded on down to the Contonemt.
at Coldwater Creek about 3 miles up the Missouri on it's
Southern banks,[25]
at this place we found Col°. [Thomas]
were kindly received by the Gentlemen of this place. Mrs.
Wilkinson the Lady of the Govr. & Genl. we wer sorry to find
in delicate health.
we were honored with a Salute of [blank space in MS.]
Guns and a harty welcom. at this place there is a publick
store kept in which I am informed the U.S have 60000$
worth of indian Goods
Although the cession of Louisiana by France to Spain was signed November 3,
1762, it was not until 1766 that d'Ulloa, the first Spanish governor, arrived at New
Orleans. The following year he sent a detachment of troops to St. Louis. Their
commandant finding them obnoxious to the French settlers withdrew to this site and
built a fort named Charles the Prince. In 1797, however, the land was granted by
Governor Trudeau to a private citizen. When the Americans took possession, a treaty
was made with the Sauk and Fox tribes, providing for the establishment of a factory
where these tribes "can be supplied with goods at a more reasonable rate than they
have been accustomed to procure them." Accordingly, Gen. James Wilkinson was
directed to build a fort and factory, and in 1805 erected on the site of the old Spanish
post Fort Bellefontaine—so called from "a fountain of pure water competent to supply
a thousand men daily." Quarters for the men, a magazine, and storehouse were
built of green logs cut upon the ground. Four iron field-pieces were brought from
St. Louis and mounted in the rear of the cantonment. From 1809–15 Bellefontaine
was headquarters of the department of Louisiana (including Forts Madison, Massac,
Osage, and Vincennes), and was the starting-point of Pike's, Long's, and Atkinson's
expeditions. During the War of 1812–15 it was frequently threatened by marauding
bands of British Indians, but never attacked. The last return from this post is dated
June 30, 1826, when it was garrisoned by four companies of the First Infantry. On
July 10 of that year it was finally abandoned as a military post in favor of Jefferson
Barracks; a small arsenal of deposit, however, was maintained until 1834, and two
years later the land was sold by the government. A number of stone foundations are
yet to be seen at this spot, and the stone magazine is still standing. In 1904 the
bodies buried in the fort cemetery were removed to that of Jefferson Barracks.—
Walter B. Douglas.
Col. Thomas Hunt was born at Watertown, Mass., Sept. 17, 1754. His
ancestors had served the colony in military affairs, and he entered the Revolutionary
army early in 1775, serving as sergeant at Lexington and Concord, ensign in a
Massachusetts regiment in 1775, adjutant of the Twenty-fifth Continental Infantry
in 1776, brigade major in October, 1776, and captain in 1779. He was wounded
both at Stony Point (1779) and Yorktown (1781). In 1791 he was appointed
captain of the Second Infantry, major in 1793, and after transference to the First
Infantry (1796) was promoted to a colonelcy in April, 1803. His later service was
under Wayne (1796), and after that campaign he held command successively of
Forts Defiance, Wayne, Industry, Shelby at Detroit (1800), and Mackinac (1803).
In 1805 he took command of the newly established Fort Bellefontaine, dying there
in 1808. His body, with that of his wife, was removed to Jefferson Barracks in
1904.—Walter B. Douglas.
George Peter of Maryland was second lieutenant in the Ninth Infantry, 1799,
lieutenant of artillery, 1801, captain, 1807, resigning from the army, 1809. He
died at Washington, June 22, 1861.—Ed.
Tuesday 23rd. Septr. 1806
we rose early took the Chief[28]
to the publick store & furnished
with Col°. Hunt and Set out decended to the Mississippi and
down that river to St. Louis at which place we arived about 12
oClock. we Suffered the party to fire off their pieces as a
Salute to the Town. we were met by all the village and received
a harty welcom from it's inhabitants &c. here I found
my old acquaintance Majr. W. Christy who had settled in this
town in a public line as a Tavern Keeper[29] . he furnished us
with store rooms for our baggage and we accepted of the invitation
of Mr. Peter Choteau and took a room in his house.
we payed a friendly visit to Mr. August Chotau and some of our
old friends this evening. as the post had departed from St.
Louis Capt. Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay[30] in Kahoka [Cahokia]
to detain the post at that place until 12 tomorrow which
was reather later than his usial time of leaveing it
This Mandan chief, Shahaka, remained a year among the whites; and in the
summer of 1807, Clark, then Indian agent for Louisiana, sent him up the Missouri
with two trading-parties and a small detachment of soldiers. During Shahaka's
absence, his people and the Arikara had been engaged in hostilities, and the latter
tribe had been joined by some Sioux; Clark says "(no doubt under the influence of
the British Traders) to prevent all parties from assending the Missouri." On Sept. 9
these hostiles attacked the American party, which was conducted by Ensign Nathaniel
Pryor, and compelled him to return to St. Louis. See letters by Clark and Pryor,
narrating the circumstances of this affair, in Annals of Iowa, Jan., 1895, pp. 613–
620. Shahaka was finally sent to his home by Lewis, arriving there Sept. 24, 1809.
See Chittenden, Amer. Fur Trade, i, pp. 139–141.—Ed.
William Christy was a Scotch Irishman of Pennsylvania, whose father had served
under Braddock (1755). Born at Carlisle in 1764, he early removed to Pittsburg
and then to Kentucky, where he lived neighbor to the Clarks at Louisville. Having
served both under St. Clair (1791) and Wayne (1794), his health became shattered;
upon the advice of his physician he removed in 1804 to St. Louis, where he lived until
his death in 1849, contributing largely to the upbuilding of the new community. He
served in several public capacities—as judge, major of militia, auditor of public
accounts, and register of the federal land office (1820–33).—Ed.
John Hays came from New York to Cahokia in the early days of the American
regime. He embarked in the Mississippi fur trade, was sheriff of St. Clair County for
a protracted term (1798–1818), and at this time was in charge of the United States
mails at Cahokia.—Ed.
Wednesday 24th of September 1806
I sleped but little last night however we rose early and
commenc[e]d wrighting our letters Capt Lewis wrote one to
the presidend[31]
and I wrote Govr. Harrison[32]
& my friends in
Kentucky and Sent of[f] George Drewyer with those letters
to Kohoka & delivered them to Mr. Hays &c. we dined with
Mr. Chotoux to day, and after dinner went to a store and
to be made. Capt. Lewis in opening his trunk found
all his papers wet, and some seeds spoiled.
See our vol. vii, Appendix, for Lewis's letter to Jefferson; also Clark's letter to
George Rogers Clark (Sept. 24), Clark's letter to Charbonneau (Aug. 20), and contemporary
newspaper notices of the expedition.
William Henry Harrison, then Governor of the Northwest Territory, with headquarters
at Vincennes. See Clark's earlier letter to him from Fort Mandan, in our
vol. vii, Appendix.—Ed.
Thursday 25th of Septr. 1806
had all of our skins &c. suned and stored away in a store-room
of Mr. Caddy Choteau. payed some visits of form, to
the gentlemen of St. Louis. in the evening a dinner & Ball
Friday 25th [26] of Septr. 1806
a fine morning we commenced wrighting &c.
| Chapter XXXIII Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | |