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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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Chapter XXVII PART II
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XXVII. The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK

Chapter XXVII
PART II

FROM WALLA WALLA RIVER TO LAWYER'S
CAÑON CREEK

XXVII. Lewis's Journal, May 8–12, 1806
Clark's Journal, May 8–l2

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 8th. 1806.

MOST of the hunters turned out by light this morning
a few others remained without our permission or
knoledge untill late in the morning, we chid them
severely for their indolence and inattention to the order of last
evening. about 8 OCk. Sheilds returned with a small deer on
which we breakfasted. by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned,
Drewyer and Cruzatte brought each a deer, Collins wounded
another which my dog caught at a little distance from the camp.
our stock of provision now consisted of 4 deer and the remnant
of the horse which we killed at Colter's Creek. Sheilds killed
a duck of an uncommon kind. the head beak and wing of
which I preserved.[1] the beak is remarkably wide and obtusely
pointed, on it's edges it is furnished with a sceries of teeth very
long and fine not unlike the teeth of a comb. the belley is of
a brick red, the lower part of the neck white, the upper part
or but of the wing is a sky blue, underneath which a narrow
stripe of white succeeds marking the wing transversly, the large
feathers are of a dark colour. tail short and pointed and


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consists of 12 dark brown feathers. the back is black and the
sides white; legs yellow and feet formed like the Duckinmallard
which it also resembles in size and form. the eye is
moderately large, puple black and iris of an orrange colour.
the colours and appearance of the female is precisely that of
the duckinmallard only, reather smaller. we are informed
that the natives in this quarter were much distressed for food
in the course of the last winter; they were compelled to collect
the moss which grows on the pine which they boiled and eat;[2]
near this camp I observed many pine trees which appear to
have been cut down about that season which they inform us
was done in order to collect the seed of the longleafed pine
which in those moments of distress also furnishes an article of
food; the seed of this speceis of pine is about the size and
much the shape of the seed of the large sunflower; they are
nutricious and not unpleasent when roasted or boiled, during
this month the natives also peal this pine and eat the succulent
or inner bark. in the creek near our encampment I observed
a falling trap constructed on the same plan with those frequent[ly]
seen in the atlantic states for catching the fish decending
the stream Capt. C. took several small trout from
this trap. Neesh-ne-park-kee-ook and several other indians
joined us this morning.[3] we gave this cheif and the indians
with us some venison, horsebeef, the entrels of the four deer,
and four fawns which were taken from two of the does that
were killed, they eat none of their food raw, tho' the entrals
had but little preperation and the fawns were boiled and
consumed hair hide and entrals. these people sometimes eat
the flesh of the horse tho' they will in most instances suffer
extreem hunger before they will kill their horses for that purpose,
this seems reather to proceede from an attatchment to this
animal, than a dislike to it's flesh for I observe. many of them
eat very heartily of the horsebeef which we give them. The
Shoshone man was displeased because we did not give him as

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much venison as he could eat and in consequence refused to
interpret, we took no further notice of him and in the course
of a few hours he became very officious and seemed anxious to
reinstate himself in our good opinions. the relation of the
twisted hair and Neeshneparkkeook gave us a sketch of the
principall watercourses West of the Rocky Mountains a copy
of which I preserved;[4] they make the main Southwardly
branch of Lewis's river much more extensive than the other
[Salmon], and place many villages of the Shoshonees on it's
western side. at half after 3 P.M. we departed; for the lodge
of the Twisted hair accompanyed by the Cheif and sundry
other indians. the relation of the twisted hair left us. the
road led us up a steep and high hill to a high and level plain
mostly untimbered, through which we passed parrallel with
the river about 4 miles when we met the Twisted hair and a
party of six men. to this Cheif we had confided the care of
our horses and a part of our saddles when we decended the
river last fall. the Twisted hair received us very cooly an
occurrence as unexpected as it was unaccountable to us. he
shortly began to speak with a loud voice and in an angry manner,
when he had ceased to speak he was answered by the
Cutnose Cheif or Neeshneparkkeook; we readily discovered
that a viole[n]t quarrel had taken place between these Cheifs
but at that instant knew not the cause; we afterwards learnt
that it was on the subject of our horses. this contreversy
between the cheifs detained us about 20 minutes; in order to
put an end to this dispute as well as to releive our horses from
the embarasment of their loads, we informed the Cheifs that
we should continue our march to the first water and encamp
accordingly we moved on and the Indians all followed about
two miles on the road we arrived at a little branch which run
to the wright. here we encamped for the evening having
traveled 6 miles today.[5] the two cheifs with their little bands
formed seperate camps a short distance from ours, they all
appeared to be in an ill humour. we had been informed some

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days since that the natives had discovered the deposit of our
saddles and taken them away and that our horses were much
scattered. we were very anxious to learn the particulars or
truth of these reports from the twisted hair, as it must in some
measure govern us in the establishment of our perminent camp
which in consequence of our detention by the snow of the
mountains has become necessary. to obtain our horses and
saddles as quickly as possible is our wish, and we are somewhat
apprehensive that this difference which has taken place
between these Chiefs may millitate against our operations in
this rispect. we were therefore desireous to bring about a
good understanding between them as soon as possible. The
Shoshone boy refused to speak, he aledged it was a quarrel
between two Cheifs and that he had no business with it; it
was in vain that we urged that his interpreting what we said on
this subject was not taking the responsibility of the inteference
on himself, he remained obstenately silent. about an
hour after we had encamped Drewyer returned from hunting
we sent him to the Twisted hair to make some enquiries relative
to our horses and saddles and to ask him to come and
smoke with us. The Twisted hair accepted the invitation and
came to our fire. The twisted hair informed us that accordingly
to the promis he had made us when he seperated from
us at the falls of the Columbia he collected our horses on his
return and took charge of them, that about this time the
Cutnose or Neeshneparkkeook and Tun-nach-e-moo-toolt or
the broken Arm. returned from a war excurtion against the
Shoshonees on the South branch of Lewis's river which had
caused their absence when we were in this neighbourhood.
that these men had become dissatisfyed with him in consequence
of our having confided the horses to his care and that
they were eternally quarreling with him insomuch that he
thought it best as he was an old man to relinquish any further
attention to the horses, that they had consequently become
scattered; that most of the horses were near this place, a part
were in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske
rivers and three or four others were at the lodge of the broken
arm
about half a days march higher up the river. he informed

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us with rispect to our saddles that on the rise of the
water this spring the earth had fallen from the door of the cash
[cache] and exposed the saddles, he being informed of their
situation had taken them up and placed them in another cash
where they were at this time; he said it was probable that a
part of them had fallen into the water but of this he was not
certain. The Twisted hair said if we would spend the day
tomorrow at his lodge which was a few miles only from hence
and on the road leading to the Broken arm's lodge, he would
collect such of our horses as were near this place and our
saddles, that he would also send some young men over the
Kooskooske to collect those in the forks and bring them to
the lodge of the broken Arm to met us. he advised us to go
to the lodge of the broken Arm as he said he was a Cheif of
great emenence among them, and promised to accompany us
thither if we wished him. we told him that we should take
his advice in every particular, that we had confided the horses
to his care and expected that he would collect them and deliver
them to us which when he performed we should pay him the
two guns and amunition we had promised him for that service.
he seemed much pleased and promised his utmost exertions.
we sent Drewyer to the Cutnose who also came to our fire and
smoked with ourselves and the Twisted hair we took occasion
in the course of the evening to express our regret that there
should be a misunderstanding between these Cheifs; the Cut-nose
told us in the presents of the Twisted hair that he the
twisted hair was a bad old man that he woar two faces, that in
stead of taking care of our horses as he had promised us that
he had suffered his young men to ride them hunting and had
injured them very much; that this was the cause why himself
and the Broken arm had forbid his using them. the other
made no reply. we informed the Cutnose of our intention of
spending tomorrow at the Twisted hair's lodge in order to
collect our horses and saddles and that we should proceede the
next day to the Broken arm's lodge, he appeared well satisfyed
with this arrangement and said he would continue with
us, and would give us any assistance in his power; he said he
knew the broken arm expected us at his lodge and that he had

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two bad horses for us, metaphorically speaking a present of two
good horses. he said the broken arm had learnt our want of
provision and had sent four of his young men with a supply
to meet us but that they had taken a different road and had
missed us. about 10 P.M. our guests left us and we layed
down to rest.

 
[1]

Already mentioned by Lewis, vol. iv, p. 323, ante; the shoveler duck (Spatula
clypeata
).—Ed.

[2]

A lichen, Alectoria jubata.—C. V. Piper.

[3]

Here some of the natives came to our camp, and informed us, that we could
not cross the mountains for a moon and a half; as the Snow was too deep, and no
grass for our horses to subsist on.—Gass (p. 305).

[4]

For this map see our atlas volume, No. 44.—Ed.

[5]

The expedition is on the south side of the Clearwater, passing up the river from
Jack's Creek, and encamping probably on Big Cañon River.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Thursday 8th.. of May 1806.

This morning our hunters was out by the time it was light.
about 8 oClock Shields brought in a small deer, on which we
brackfast by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned Drewyer &
P. Crusat brought ia a Deer each & Collins wounded one
which our Dog caught near our camp. Total of our stock
of provisions 4 deer & some horse flesh. on the small creek
which passes our Camp, the nativs have laterly encamped and
as we are informed have been much distressed for provisions,
they have fallen a number of small pine in the vicinity of this
Encampment for the Seed which is in the bur of which they
eate. we are informed that they were compelled to collect the
moss off the pine boil & eate it in the latter part of the last
winter. on the creek near our camp I observed a kind of trap
which was made with great panes to catch the small fish which
pass down with the stream. This was a dam formed of stone
so as to collect the water in a narrow part not exceeding 3 feet
wide from which place the water shot with great force and
scattered through some small willows closely connected and
fastened with bark, this mat of willow switches was about 4
feet wide and 6 long lying in a horozontal position, fastened
at the extremety. the small fish which fell on those willows
was washed on the Willows where they [lie] untill taken off
&c. I cought or took off those willows 9 small trout from
3 to 7 Inches in length. Soon after I returned from the
fishery an Indian came from a fishery of a similar kind a little
above with 12 small fish which he offered me which I declined
axcepting as I found from his signs that his house was a short
distance above, and that those fisheries afforded the principal


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part of the food for his children. The great Chief of the
Bands below who has a cut nose joined us this morning. we
gave the interals with 4 young fauns which was in two of the
deer killed to day to the Indians also some of our deer &
horse flesh. the paunch of the deer they eate without any
preperation further than washing them a little. the fauns they
boiled and eate every part of them even the Skins with the
hair. The Snake Indian was much displeased that he was not
furnished with as much Deer as he could eate. he refused to
speake to the wife of Shabono, through whome we could understand
the nativs. we did not indulge him and in the after
part of the day he came too and spoke very well. one of the
Indians drew me a sketch of the river in this sketch he makes
the 1st. large Southerly fork of Lewis's river much the longest
and on which great numbers of the Snake Indians reside &c. at
[blank space in MS.] P. M. we loaded up and set on on the
roade leading as we were informed to the lodge of the twisted
hair, the Chief in whoes care we had left our horses. we were
accompanied by the Cut nose Chief our old Chief who had
accompanied us down the river and several men. we assended
the hills which was steep and emencely high to a leavel rich
country thinly timbered with pine. we had not proceeded
more than 4 miles before we met the twisted hair and several
men meeting of us. we were verry coolly receved by the
twisted hair. he spoke aloud and was answered by the Cut
nose. we could not learn what they said, but plainly discovered
that a missunderstanding had taken place between
them. we made signs to them that we should proceed on to
the next water and encamp. accordingly I set out and they
all followed. we had not proceeded far before the road crossed
a small handsom stream on which we encamped. The parties
of those two Chiefs took different positions at some distance
from each other and all appeared sulkey. after we had formed
our camp we sent Drewyer with a pipe to smoke with the
twisted hair and lern the cause of the dispute between him
and the Cut nose, and also to invite him to our fire to smoke
with us. The twisted hair came to our fire to smoke we then
sent drewyer to the Cut Noses fire with the same directions.

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he returned and informed us that the Cut nose said he would
join us in a fiew minits. it appears that the cause of the
quarrel between those two men is about our horses and we
cannot lern the particulars of this quarrel which probably
originated through jelousy on the part of the Cut nose who
blames the twisted hair for suffer[ing] our horses to be rode,
and want water dureing the winter &c. twisted hair says the
horses were taken from him &c. The Cut nose joined us in a
short time We smoked with all the party of both Chiefs, and
told them that we were sorry to find them at varience with each
other the cut nose said that the twisted hair was a bad man
and wore two faces, that he had not taken care of our horses
as was expected, that himself an the broken arm had caused
our horses to be watered in the winter and had them drove
together, and that if we would proceed on to the village of the
great chief [for] whome we had left a flag last fall the broken
arm he would send for our horses, that he had himself three
of them. he also informed us that the great Chief hereing of
our distressed situation had sent his son and 4 men to meet us
and have us furnished on the way &c. that the young men had
missed us and could never over take us untill this time. that
the great Chief had 2 bad horses for us and expected us to go
to his lodge which was near the river and about half a days
march above &c. The twisted hair told us that he wished to
smoke with us at his lodge which was on the road leading to
the Great Chiefs lodge, and but a fiew miles ahead. if we
would delay at his lodge tomorrow he would go after our
saddles and horses which was near the place we made our
canoes our last fall. we deturmined to set out early in the
morning and proceed on to the lodge of the twisted hair and
send for our saddles and powder which we had left burried
near the forks, and the day after tomorrow to proceed on to
the lodge of the Grand Chief. accordingly we informed the
Indians of our intentions. we all smoked and conversed
untill about 10 P M. the Indians retired and we lay down.
Derected 5 hunters to turn out early in the morning to hunt
and meet us at the twisted hair's lodge.


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[Lewis:]

Friday May 9th 1806.

We sent out several hunters early this morning with instructions
to meet us at the lodge of the Twisted hair. Collecting
our horses detained us untill 9.A.M. when we charged our
packhorses and set out. our rout lay through a level rich
country similar to that of yesterday; at the distance of 6 miles
we arrived at the lodge of the twisted hair; this habitation was
built in the usual form with sticks mats and dryed hay, and
contained 2 fir[e]s and about 12 persons. even at this small
habitation there was an appendage of the soletary lodge, the
retreat of the tawney damsels when nature causes them to be
driven into coventry; here we halted as had been previously
concerted, and one man with 2 horses accompa[n]yed the
twisted hair to the canoe camp,[6] about 4 ms. in quest of the
saddles. the Twisted hair sent two young men in surch of
our horses agreeably to his promis. The country along
the rocky mountains for several hundred miles in length and
about 50 in width is level extreemly fertile and in many parts
covered with a tall and open growth of the longleafed pine,
near the watercourses the hills are steep and lofty tho' [they]
are covered with a good soil not remarkably stony and possess
more timber than the level country. the bottom lands
on the watercou[r]ses are reather narrow and confined tho'
fertile & seldom inundated. this country would form an extensive
settlement; the climate appears quite as mild as that
of similar latitude on the Atlantic coast if not more so and it
cannot be otherwise than healthy; it possesses a fine dry pure
air. the grass and many plants are now upwards of knee high.
I have no doubt but this tract of country if cultivated would
produce in great abundance every article essentially necessary
to the comfort and subsistence of civillized man. to it's present
inhabitants nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand,
for she has distributed a great variety of esculent plants over
the face of the country which furnish them a plentifull store
of provision; these are acquired with but little toil, when prepared
after the method of the natives afford not only a nutricious


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but an agreeable food. among other roots those called
by them the quawmash and Cows are esteemed the most
agreeable and valuable as they are also the most abundant.
the cows is a knobbed root of an irregularly rounded form
not unlike the gensang in form and consistence. this root
they collect, rub of[f] a thin black rhind which covers it and
pounding it expose it in cakes to the sun. these cakes are
about an inch and 1/4 thick and 6 by 18 in width, when dryed
they either eat this bread alone without any further preparation,
or boil it and make a thick musilage; the latter is most
common and much the most agreeable. the flavor of this
root is not very unlike the gensang. this root they collect as
early as the snows disappear in the spring and continue to collect
it untill the quawmash supplys it's place which happens
about the latter end of June. the quawmash is also collected
for a few weaks after it first makes it's appearance in the spring,
but when the scape appears it is no longer fit for use untill the
seed are ripe which happens about the time just mentioned,
and then the cows declines.[7] the latter is also frequently dryed
in the sun and pounded afterwards and then used in making
soope. I observed a few trees of the larch and a few small
bushes of the balsam fir near the lodge of the Twisted hair.
at 2 P.M. our hunters joined us Drewyer killed a deer but
lost it in the river. a few pheasants was the produce of the
hunt. we procured a few roots of cows of which we made
soope. late in the evening The Twisted hair and willard
returned; they brought about half of our saddles, and some
powder and lead which had been buried at that place. my
saddle was among the number of those which were lost.
about the same time the young men arrived with 21 of our
horses. the greater part of our horses were in fine order.
five of them appeared to have been so much injured by the
indians riding them last fall that they had not yet recovered
and were in low order. three others had soar backs. we had
these horses caught and hubbled. the situation of our camp
was a disagreeable one in an open plain; the wind blew violently

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and was cold. at seven P.M. it began to rain and hail,
at 9 it was succeeded by a heavy shower of snow which continued
untill the next morning. Several indians joined us
this evening from the village of the broken arm or Tunnachemootoolt
and continued all night. The man who had imposed
himself on us as a relation of the twisted hair rejoined
us this evening we found him an impertinent proud supercilious
fellow and of no kind of rispectability in the nation, we
therefore did not indulge his advances towards a very intimate
connection. The Cutnose lodged with the twisted hair I
beleive they have become good friends again. several indians
slept about us.

 
[6]

Referring to the camp made by the explorers at the forks of the Clearwater,
Sept. 26, 1805.—Ed.

[7]

For description of camas (quawmash) root, see vol. iii, p. 78, note I; for
kowse, see vol. iv, p. 354, note 2.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Friday 9th. May 1806

The hunters set out very early agreeable to their derections.
we were detained untill 9 A.M. for our horses which were much
scattered at which time we collected our horses and set out and
proceeded on through a butifull open rich country for 6 miles
to the camp of the twisted hair. this Campment is formed of
two Lodges built in the usial form of mats and straw. the
largest and principal Lodge is calculated for 2 fires only and
contains about [blank space in MS.] persons. the Second
lodge is small & appears to be intended for the sick women
who always retire to a seperate lodge when they have the
[blank space in MS.] this custom is common to all the
nations on this river as well as among all other Indian nations
with whom I am acquainted. at the distance of 2 miles we
passd. a lodge of 2 fires on a fork of the road which leads
to the right Situated on a small branch which falls into
Musquetor Creek. before 2 P M all our hunters joined us
haveing killed only one deer which was lost in the river and
a pheasent. Soon after we halted at the lodge of the twisted
hair he set out with two boys and Willard with a pack horse
down to the river near the place we made the canoes for our
saddles and a cannister of powder and some lead buried there,
also a part of our horses which resorted near that place. late
in the evening they returned with 21 of our horse[s] and about


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half of our saddles with the powder and ball. The greater part
of the horses were in fine order, tho' five of them had been rode
& worsted in such a manner last fall by the Inds. that they had
not recovered and are in very low order, and 3 with sore backs.
we had all the recovered horses cought & hobbled. we precured
some pounded roots of which a supe was made thick on
which we suped. the wind blew hard from the S.W. accompanied
with rain untill from 7 oClock untill 9 P.M. when it
began to snow and continued all night. several Indians came
from the village of the Chief with whome we had left a flag and
continued with us all night. they slept in the house of the
twisted hair and two of them along side of us.

[Lewis:]

Saturday May 10th. 1806.

This morning the snow continued falling [until] 1/2 after
6 A.M. when it ceased, the air keen and cold, the snow 8
inches deep on the plain; we collected our horses and after
taking a scant breakfast of roots we set out for the village of
Tunnachemootoolt; our rout lay through an open plain course
S. 35. E. and distance 16 Ms. the road was slippery and the
snow clogged to the horses feet, and caused them to trip
frequently. the mud at the sources of the little ravines was
deep black and well supplyed with quawmash. Drewyer
turned off to the left of the road in order to hunt and did
not join us this evening. at 4 in the afternoon we decended
the hills to Commearp Creek[8] and arrived at the Village of
Tunnachemootoolt, the cheif at whos lodge we had left the
flag last fall. this flag was now displayed on a staff placed at
no great distance from the lodge. underneath the flag the
Cheif met my friend Capt. C. who was in front and conducted


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him about 80 yds.. to a place on the bank of the creek where he
requested we should encamp; I came up in a few minutes and
we collected the Cheifs and men of consideration smoked with
them and stated our situation with rispect to provision. the
Cheif spoke to his people and they produced us about 2
bushels of the quawmas roots dryed, four cakes of the bread
of cows and a dryed salmon trout. we thanked them for this
store of provision but informed them that our men not being
accustomed to live on roots alone we feared it would make
them sick, to obviate which we proposed exchangeing a [good]
horse in reather low order for a young horse in tolerable order
with a view to kill. the hospitality of the cheif revolted at the
eydea of an exchange, he told us that his young men had a
great abundance of young horses and if we wished to eat them
we should by [be] furnished with as many as we wanted. accordingly
they soon produced us two fat young horses one of
which we killed, the other we informed them we would pospone
killing untill we had consumed the one already killed.
This is a much greater act of hospitality than we have witnessed
from any nation or tribe since we have passed the
Rocky mountains. in short be it spoken to their immortal
honor it is the only act which deserves the appellation of
hospitallity which we have witnessed in this quarter. we informed
these people that we were hungry and fatiegued at this
moment, that when we had eaten and refreshed ourselves we
would inform them who we were, from whence we had come
and the objects of our resurches. a principal Cheif by name
Ho-hâst-ill-pilp arrived with a party of fifty men mounted on
eligant horses. he had come on a visit to us from his village
which is situated about six miles distant near the river. we
invited this man into our circle and smoked with him, his
retinue continued on horseback at a little distance. after we
had eaten a few roots we spoke to them as we had promised,
and gave Tinnachemootoolt and Hohâstillpilp each a medal;
the former one of the small size with the likeness of Mr. Jefferson
and the latter one of the sewing medals[9] struck in the

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presidency of Washington. we explained to them the desighn
and the importance of medals in the estimation of the whites
as well as the red men who had been taught their value. The
Cheif had a large conic lodge of leather erected for our reception
and a parsel of wood collected and laid at the door after which
he invited Capt. C. and myself to make that lodge our home
while we remained with him. we had a fire lighted in this
lodge and retired to it accompanyed by the Cheifs and as
many of the considerate [considerable] men as could croud in
a circcle within it. here after we had taken a repast on some
horsebeef we resumed our council with the indians which
together with smoking the pipe occupyed the ballance of the
evening. I was surprised to find on decending the hills of
Commearp Cr. to find that there had been no snow in the
bottoms of that stream. it seems that the snow melted in
falling and decended here in rain while it snowed on the plains.
the hills are about six hundred feet high about one fourth of
which distance the snow had decended and still lay on the
sides of the hills. as these people had been liberal with us with
rispect to provision I directed the men not to croud their lodge
[in] surch of food in the manner hunger has compelled them
to do at most lodges we have passed, and which the Twisted
hair had informed me was disgreeable to the natives. but
their previous want of hospitality had induced us to consult
their enclinations but little and suffer our men to obtain provision
from them on the best terms they could. The village
of the broken arm as I have heretofore termed it consists of
one house only which is 150 feet in length built in the usual
form of sticks matts and dry grass. it contains twenty four
fires and about double that number of families. from appearances
I presume they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise
of their women pounding roots reminds me of a nail factory.
The indians seem well pleased, and I am confident that they
are not more so than our men who have their s[t]omachs once
more well filled with horsebeef and mush of the bread of cows.
the house of coventry is also seen here.

 
[8]

This creek is sometimes called Kamai or Kamiah, but is generally known as
Lawyer's Cañon Creek; it takes this name from an Indian called by the whites
"Lawyer," who claimed to be a son of the chief who kept the horses of the expedition
during the preceding winter; but James Stuart (an educated Nez Percé of
much ability) told O. D. Wheeler that this claim was induced by vanity on Lawyer's
part, who assented to the statement that it was his father who had aided the explorers.
In reality the hunting districts of Twisted Hair and Lawyer's father were many miles
apart.—Ed.

[9]

I. e., "sowing"—referring to the design on the "third-class" medal of a
farmer sowing grain.—Ed.


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[Clark:]

Saturday 10th of May 1806

This morning the snow continued falling untill 1/2 past 6
A M when it seased. the air keen and cold the snow 8 inches
deep on the plain. we collected our horses and after takeing a
scanty brackfast of roots, we set out for the village of the Chief
with a flag, and proceeded on through an open plain. the road
was slipry and the snow cloged and caused the horses to trip
very frequently. the mud at heads of the streams which we
passed was deep and well supplied with the Carmash. Drewyer
turned off the road to hunt near the river to our lef[t] and did
not join us to day. at 4 P M we arrived at the village of
Tin nach e moo toolt the Chief whome We had left a flag. this
flag was hoisted on a pole unde[r] the flag the Chief met me
and conducted me to a spot near a small run about 80 paces
from his Lodges where he requested me to halt which I did.
Soon after Cap Lewis who was in the rear came up and we
smoked with and told this Chief our situation in respect to
provisions. they brought forward about 2 bushels of quawmash
4 cakes of bread made of roots and a dried fish. we
informed the Chief that our party was not accustomed to eate
roots without flesh & proposed to exchange some of our oald
horses for young ones to eate. they said that they would not
exchange horses, but would furnish us with such as we wished,
and produced 2 one of which we killed and informd. them that
we did not wish to kill the other at this time. We gave
medals to the broken arm or Tin-nach-e-moo-tolt and Hoh-hâst-ill-pilp
two principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation and was
informed that there was one other Great Chief (in all 4) who
had but one eye. he would be here tomorrow. a large Lodge
of Leather was pitched and Capt. Lewis and my self was envited
into it. we entered and the Chief and principal men came into
the lodge and formed a circle a parcel of wood was collected
and laid at the dore and a fire made in this conic lodge before
we entered it. the Chief requested that we might make the
Lodge our homes while we remained with him. here after
we had taken a repast on roots & horse beef we resumed our
council with the indians which together with smokeing took
up the ballance of the evening. I was supprised to find


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decending the hill to Commearp Creek to find that there had
been no snow in the bottoms of that stream. it seams that
the snow melted in falling and decended here in rain while it
snowed in the plain. the hills are about Eight hundred feet
high about 1/4 of which distance the snow had decended and
still lay on the sides of the hill. as those people had been liberal
I directed the men not to crowd their Lodges in serch of food
the manner hunger has compelled them to do, at most lodges
we have passed, and which the Twisted Hair had informed us
was disagreeable to the nativs. but their previous want of
hospitality had enduced us to consult their enclinations but
little and suffer our men to obtain provisions from them on
the best terms they could.

The Village of the broken Arm consists of one house or
Lodge only which is 150 feet in length built in the usial form
of sticks, Mats and dry grass. it contains 24 fires and about
double that number of families. from appearance I prosume
they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise of their women
pounding the cows roots remind me of a nail factory. The
Indians appear well pleased, and I am confident that they are
not more so than our men who have their stomach once more
well filled with horse beef and the bread of cows. Those
people has shewn much greater acts of hospitallity than we
have witnessed from any nation or tribe since we have passed
the rocky Mountains. in short be it spoken to their immortal
honor it is the only act which diserves the appelation of hospitallity
which we have witnessed in this quarter.

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 11th 1806.

The last evening we were much crouded with the indians in
our lodge, the whole floor of which was covered with their
sleeping carcases. we arrose early and took breakfast. at
8 A.M. a Cheif of great note among these people arrived from
his village or lodge on the S. side of Lewis's River. this is a
stout fellow of good countenance about 40 years of age and
has lost the left eye. his name is Yoom-parḱ-kar-tim.[10] to this


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man we gave a medal of the smal kind. those with the likeness
of Mr. Jefferson have all been disposed of except one of
the largest size which we reserve for some great Cheif on the
Yellow rock river. we now pretty fully informed ourselves
that Tunnachemootoolt, Neeshneparkkeeook, Yoomparkkartim
and Hohâstillpilp were the principal Cheif[s] of the Chopunnish
nation and rank in the order here mentioned; as all
those cheifs were present in our lodge[11] we thought it a favorable
time to repeat what had been said yesterday and to enter
more minutely into the views of our government with rispect
to the inhabitants of this western part of the continent, their
intention of establishing trading houses for their relief, their
wish to restore peace and harmony among the natives, the
strength power and wealth of our nation &c. to this end we
drew a map of the country with a coal on a mat in their way
and by the assistance of the snake boy and our interpretters
were enabled to make ourselves understood by them altho' it
had to pass through the French, Minnetare, Shoshone and
Chopunnish languages. the interpretation being tedious it
ocupyed nearly half the day before we had communicated to
them what we wished. they appeared highly pleased. after
this council was over we amused ourselves with shewing them
the power of magnetism, the spye glass, compass, watch, air-gun
and sundry other articles equally novel and incomprehensible
to them. they informed us that after we had left the
Minnetares last spring that three of their people had visited
that nation and that they had informed them of us and had
told them that we had such things in our possession but that
they could not place confidence in the information untill they
had now witnessed it themselves. A young man, son of a
conspicuous cheif among these people who was killed not long
since by the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie, brought and presented
us a very fine mare and colt. he said he had opened
his ears to our councils and would observe them strictly, and
that our words had made his heart glad. he requested that we

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would accept this mear and colt which he gave in token of his
determination to pursue our advise. about 3 P.M. Drewyer
arrived with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us that
the snow still continued to cover the plain. many of the
natives apply to us for medical aid which we gave them cheerfully
so far as our skill and store of medicine would enable us.
schrofela, ulsers, rheumatism, soar eyes, and the loss of the uce
of their limbs are the most common cases among them. the
latter case is not very common but we have seen th[r]ee instances
of it among the Chopunnish. it is a very extraordinary
complaint. a Cheif of considerable note at this place
has been afflicted with it for three years, he is incapable of
moving a single limb but lies like a corps in whatever position
he is placed, yet he eats heartily, digests his food perfectly,
injoys his understanding, his pulse are good, and has retained
his flesh almost perfectly, in short were it not that he appears
a little pale from having lain so long in the shade he might
well be taken for a man in good health. I suspect that their
confinement to a diet of roots may give rise to all those disorders
except the rheumatism & soar eyes, and to the latter
of these, the state of debility incident to a vegetable diet
may measureably contribute. The Chopunnish notwithstanding
they live in the crouded manner before mentioned are much
more clenly in their persons and habitations than any nation
we have seen since we left the Ottoes on the river Platte.
The Twisted hair brought us six of our horses.

 
[10]

This name is said to mean five big hearts. See Wheeler, Trail of Lewis and
Clark
, ii, p. 267.—Ed.

[11]

We now find a great many more men among the Indians than when we
went down last fall; and several chiefs, which had then been out at war.—Gass
(p. 308).

[Clark:]

Sunday 11th May 1806

Some little rain last night. we were crouded in the Lodge
with Indians who continued all night and this morning Great
numbers were around us. The One Eyed Chief Yoom-park-kar-tim
arived and we gave him a medal of the small size and
spoke to the Indians through a Snake boy Shabono and his
wife. we informed them who we were, where we came from
& our intentions towards them, which pleased them very much.
a young man son to the great Chief who was killed not long
sence by the Indians from the N.E. brought an elegant mare
and coalt and Gave us, and said he had opened his ears to


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what we had said and his heart was glad: and requested us
to take this mare and coalt as a token of his deturmination
to pursue our Councels &c. The twisted hair brough[t] six of
our horses all in fine order. Great numbers of Indians apply
to us for medical aid which we gave them cherfully so far as
our skill and store of Medicine would enable us. schrofla,
ulsers, rhumitism, sore eyes, and the loss of the use of their
Limbs are the most common cases among them. the latter
case is not very common but We have seen 3 instances of it
among the Chopunnish. a very extroadinery compl[ai]nt.
about 3 P. M. Geo. drewyer arived with 2 deer which he had
killed. he informed us that the snow still continued to cover
the plains. We are now pretty well informed that Tunnachemootoolt,
Hohâstillpilp, Neshneparkkeeook, and Yoomparkkartim
were the principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation
and ranked in the order here mentioned; as all those chiefs
were present in our lodge we thought it a favourable time to
repeet what had been said and to enter more minutely into the
views of our government with respect to the inhabitants of
this Western part of the Continent, their intentions of establishing
tradeing houses for their relief, their wish to restore
peace and harmony among the nativs, the strength welth and
powers of our nation &c. to this end we drew a map of the
country with a coal on a mat in their way, and by the assistance
of the Snake boy and our interpreters were enabled to
make ourselves understood by them altho' it had to pass
through French, Minnetare, Shoshone and Chopunnish languages.[12]
the interpretation being tegious it occupied the

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greater part of the day, before we had communicated to them
what we wished. they appeared highly pleased. after this
council was over we amused ourselves with shewing them the
power of magnetism, the spye glass, compass, watch, air gun
and sundery other articles equally novel and incomprehensible
to them. they informed us that after we left the Menetares
last spring that 3 of their people has visited that nation, and
that they had informed them of us, and had told them that
we had such things in our possession but that they could not
place confidence in the information untill they had now witnessed
it themselves.

In the evening a man was brought in a robe by four Indians
and laid down near me. they informed me that this man was
a Chief of considerable note who has been in the situation I
see him for 5 years. this man is incapable of moveing a single
limb but lies like a corps in whatever position he is placed,
yet he eats hartily, dejests his food perfectly, enjoys his understanding.
his pulse are good, and has retained his flesh almost
perfectly; in short were it not that he appears a little pale from
having been so long in the shade, he might well be taken for a
man in good health. I suspect that their confinement to a diet
of roots may give rise to all the disorde[r]s of the nativs of this
quarter except the Rhumitism & Sore eyes, and to the latter of
those, the state of debility incident to a vegitable diet may measureably
contribute. The Chopunnish not withstanding they
live in the crouded manner before mentioned are much more
clenly in their persons and habitations than any nation we have
seen sence we left the Illinois. These nativs take their fish in
the following manner towit. a stand small stage or warf consisting
of sticks and projecting about 10 feet into the river and
about 3 feet above the water on the extremity of this the fisherman
stands with his guig or a skooping net which differ but
little in their form [from] those commonly [ILLUSTRATION] used
in our country it is formed thus with those
nets they take the Suckers and also the salmon
trout and I am told the salmon also.

 
[12]

Before leaving the Chopunnish, among whom they spent several weeks, the explorers
acquired something of their language. Clark entered upon the fly-leaf of
Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 3, the following terms used by this tribe:

"The Chopunnish call the Crow Indians Up-shar-look-kar
Chopunnish name for Sin-sho-cal Dearbourn R.

             
ditto  do  Cal-la-mar-sha-mash Meddeson [River] 
ditto  do  Co-ma-win-nim Maria River 
ditto  ditto  Ta-ki-á-ki-á Muscle Shell R 
ditto  ditto  Wah-wa-ko-ye-o-cose is the Rochejhone Elk river 
ditto  do  Koos-koos-an-nim-a the little Missouri 
ditto  do  Walsh-nem-mah Knife R 
ditto  do  Ni-he-six-te C. R"—Ed. 


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[Lewis:]

Monday May 12th. 1806.

This morning a great number of indians collected about us
as usual. we took an early breakfast and Capt. C. began to
administer eyewater to a croud of at least 50 applicants. The
Indians held a council among themselves this morning with
rispect to the subjects on which we had spoken to them yesterday.
the result as we learnt was favourable. they placed confidence
in the information they had received and resolved to
pu[r]sue our advise. after this council was over the principal
Cheif or the broken Arm, took the flour of the roots of cows
and thickened the soope in the kettles and baskets of all his
people, this being ended he made a harangue the purport of
which was making known the deliberations of their council
and impressing the necessity of unanimity among them and
a strict attention to the resolutions which had been agreed on
in councill; he concluded by inviting all such men as had
resolved to abide by the decrees of the council to come and
eat and requested such as would not be so bound to shew
themselves by not partaking of the feast. I was told by one
of our men who was present, that there was not a dissenting
voice on this great national question, but all swallowed their
objections if any they had, very cheerfully with their mush.
during the time of this loud and animated harangue of the
Cheif the women cryed wrung their hands, toar their hair and
appeared to be in the utmost distress. after this cerimony
was over the Cheifs and considerate men came in a body to
where we were seated at a little distance from our tent, and
two young men at the instance of the nation, presented us
each with a fine horse. we caused the cheifs to be seated and
gave them each a flag a pound of powder and fifty balls. we
also gave powder and ball to the two young men who had
presented the horses. Neeshneeparkkeeook gave Drewyer a
good horse. The band of Tin-nach-e-moo-toolt have six guns
which they acquired from the Minnetaries and appear anxious
to obtain arms and amunition. after they had received those
presents the Cheifs requested we would retire to the tent
whither they accompanied us, they now informed us that
they wished to give an answer to what we had said to them


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the preceeding day, but also informed us that there were many
of their people waiting in great pain at that moment for the
aid of our medicine. it was agreed between Capt. C. and
myself that he sould attend the sick as he was their favorite
phisician while I would [remain] here and answer the Cheifs.
The father of Hohâstillpilp was the orrator on this occasion.
he observed that they had listened with attention to our adivse
and that the whole nation were resolved to follow it, that they
had only one heart and one tongue on this subject. he said
they were fully sensible of the advantages of peace and that
the ardent desire which they had to cultivate peace with their
neighbours had induced his nation early last summer to send
a pipe by 3 of their brave men to the Shoshonees on the S.
side of Lewis's river in the Plains of Columbia, that these
people had murdered these men, which had given rise to the
war expedition against that nation last fall; that their warriors
had fallen in with the Shoshonees at that time and had killed
42 of them with the loss of 3 only on their part; that this
had satisfyed the blood of their disceased friends and that they
would never again make war against the Shoshonees, but were
willing to receive them as friends. that they valued the lives
of their young men too much to wish them to be engaged in
war. That as we had not yet seen the black foot Indians and
the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie they did not think it safe to
venture over to the Plains of the Missouri, where they would
fondly go provided those nations would not kill them. that
when we established our forts on the Missouri as we had
promised, they would come over and trade for arms Amunition
&c. and live about us. that it would give them much
pleasure to be at peace with these nations altho' they had shed
much of their blood. he said that the whitemen might be
assured of their warmest attatchment and that they would
alwas give them every assistance in their power; that they
were poor but their hearts were good. he said that some of
their young men would go over with us to the Missouri and
bring them the news as we wished, and that if we could
make a peace between themselves and their enimies on the
other side of the mountain their nation would go over to the

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Missouri in the latter end of the summer. on the subject of
one of their cheifs accompanying us to the Land of the white-men
they could not yet determine, but that they would let us
know before we left them. that the snow was yet so deep in
the mountain if we attempted to pass we would certainly
perish, and advised us to remain untill after the next full moon
when the[y] said the snow would disappear and we could find
grass for our horses. when the oald man had concluded I
again spoke to them at some length with which they appeared
highly gratifyed. after smoking the pipe which was about 2
P.M. they gave us another fat horse to kill which was thankfully
received by the party. Capt. C. now joined us having
just made an end of his medical distrabution. we gave a phiol
of eyewater to the Broken Arm, and requested that he would
wash the eyes of such as might apply for that purpose, and
that when it was exhausted we would replenish the phiol. he
was much pleased with this present. we now gave the Twisted
hair one gun and a hundred balls and 2 lbs. of powder in part
for his attention to our horses and promised the other gun and
a similar quantity of powder and lead when we received the
ballance of our horses. this gun we had purchased of the
indians below for 2 Elkskins. this evening three other of our
original stock of horses were produced, they were in fine order
as well as those received yesterday. we have now six horses
out only, as our old guide Toby and his son each took a horse
of ours when they returned last fall. these horses are said to
be on the opposite side of the river at no great distance from
this place. we gave the young men who had delivered us the
two horses this morning some ribbon, blue wampum and vermillion,
one of them gave me a handsome pare of legings and
the Broken Arm gave Capt. C. his shirt, in return for which
we gave him a linin shirt. we informed the indians of our
wish to pass the river and form a camp at some proper place
to fish, hunt, and graize our horses untill the snows of the
mountains would permit us to pass. they recommended a
position a few miles distant from hence on the opposite side
of the river, but informed us that there was no canoe at this
place by means of which we could pass our baggage over the

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river, but promised to send a man early in the morning for
one which they said would meet us at the river by noon the
next day. The indians formed themselves this evening into
two large parties and began to gamble for their beads and
other ornaments. the game at which they played was that
of hiding a stick in their hands which they frequently changed
accompanying their operations with a song. this game seems
common to all the nations in this country, and dose not differ
from that before discribed of the Shoshonees on the S.E.
branch of Lewis's river. we are anxious to procure some
guides to accompany us on the different routs we mean to
take from Travellers rest; for this purpose we have turned
our attention to the Twisted hair who has several sons grown
who are well acquainted as well as himself with the various
roads in those mountains. we invited the old fellow to
remove his family and live near us while we remained; he
appeared gatifyed with this expression of our confidence and
promissed to do so. shot at a mark with the indians, struck
the mark with 2 balls distce. 220 yds.[13]

 
[13]

In the weather diary for this date, Lewis wrote (Codex K, p. 148): "the
natives inform us that the salmon have arrived at the entrance of the Kooskooske in
great numbers and that some were caught yesterday in Lewis's river opposite to us
many miles above the entrance of that river. from this village of the broken arm
Lewis's river is only about 10 miles distant to the S. W. the natives also inform us
that the salmon appear many days sooner in Lewis's river above the entrance of the
Kooskooske than they do in that stream."—Ed.

[Clark:]

Monday 12th. May 1806

a fine morning great numbers of Indians flock about us
as usial. after brackfast I began to administer eye water and
in a fiew minits had near 40 applicants with sore eyes, and
maney others with other complaints most common Rhumatic
disorders & weaknesses in the back and loins perticularly the
womin. the Indians had a grand Council this morning after
which we were presented each with a horse by two young men
at the instance of the nation. we caused the chiefs to be
seated and gave them each a flag a pint of Powder and 50 balls
to the two young men who had presented the horses we also


27

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gave powder and ball. The broken arm or Tunnachemootoolt
pulled off his leather shirt and gave me. In return gave
him a shirt. We retired into the Lodge and the natives spoke
to the following purpote, i.e. they had listened to our advice
and that the whole nation were deturmined to follow it, that
they had only one heart and one tongue on this subject. explained
the cause of the War with the Shoshones. they wished
to be at peace with all nations &c. Some of their men would
accompany us to the Missouri &c. &c. as a great number of
men women & children were wateing and requesting medical
assistance maney of them with the most simple complaints
which could be easily releived, independent of maney with
disorders intirely out of the power of Medison all requesting
something, we agreed that I should administer and Capt L to
here and answer the Indians. I was closely employed untill
2 P.M. administering eye water to about 40 grown persons.
some simple cooling medicenes to the disabled Chief, to several
women with rhumatic effections & a man who had a swelled
hip. &c. &c. in the evening three of our horses were brought
all in fine order. we have now only Six remaining out. We
gave to each a Chief a pint of Powder and 50 Balls a small
flag and to the two young men who delivered us the horses
we gave also powder & Ball and some blue wompom & ribin.
all appeared much pleased. Those people are much affraid
of the blackfoot indians, and the Big bellies of Fort de prarie
establishment. those indians kill great numbers of this nation
whenever they pass over to hunt on the Missouri. one of
our men bought a horse for a fiew small articles of an Indian.
The Indians brought up a fat horse and requested us to kill
and eate it as they had nothing else to offer us to eate. The
Cut Nose made a present of a horse to Drewyer at the same
time the two horses were offered to Capt. Lewis & my self.
The horses of those people are large well formed and active.
Generally in fine order. sore backs caused by rideing them
either with out saddles, or with pads which does not prevent
the wate of the rider pressing imediately on the back bone,
and weathers [withers] of the horse. the Indians formed two
parti[e]s and plaied for their beeds. we gave the twisted hair

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a gun, powder & 100 ball in part for takeing care of our horses
&c. and wish him to camp near us untill we crossed the mountains
which he agreed to do, and was much pleased we have
turned our attentions towards the twisted hair who has several
sons grown who are well acquainted as well as himself with the
various roads through the rocky Mountains and will answer
very well as guides to us through those mountains. In the
council to day the father of Hohâstillpilp said the Chopunnish
were fully convinced of the advantages of peace and ardently
wished to cultivate peace with their neighbours. early last
Summer 3 of their brave men were sent with a pipe to the
Shoshones on the S E. fork of Lewis's river in the Plains of
Columbia, their pipe was disregearded and their 3 men murdered,
which had given rise to the War expedition against
that nation last fall; that their warriers had fallen in with and
killed 42 of the Shoshones with the loss of 3 men only on
their part; that this had satisfied the blood of the deceased
friends and they would never again make war against the
Shoshones, but were willing to receve them as friends. That
as we had not seen the Indians towards Fort de Prarie they did
not think it safe to venture over to the Plains of the Missouri,
where they would fondly go provided those nations would not
kill them. I gave a vial of eye water to the Broken arm for
to wash the eyes of all who applied to him and told him when
it was out we would replenish it again.