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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

expand sectionXXVII. 
expand sectionXXVIII. 
expand sectionXXIX. 
expand sectionXXX. 
expand sectionXXXI. 
collapse sectionXXXII. 
Chapter XXXII
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Chapter XXXII

FROM THE LITTLE MISSOURI TO WHITE RIVER

XXXII. Clark's Journal, August 13—31, 1806

[Clark:]

Wednesday (Friday) 13th. August 1806 [Friday correct]

THE last night was very cold with a Stiff breeze from
the N.W. all hands were on board and we Set out
at sunrize and proceeded on very well with a Stiff
breeze astern the greater part of the day. passed the enterance
of the Little Missouri river at 8 A. M. and arived at the
Enterance of Myry river[1] at sun set and encamped on the
N E Side haveing came by the assistance of the wind, the current
and our oars 86 miles. below the little bason I with
Drewyer walked through the N.E point, we Saw an Elk
and Several deer. Drewyer wounded the Elk but could not
get him. I joined the perogues & party again in the bend
below and proceeded on. Some indians were Seen in a Skin
canoe below, they were decending from an old camp of theirs
on the S.W. Side, those I suppose to be some of the Minetaras
who had been up on a hunting expedition, one Canoe
was left at their camp, we had not proceeded far before I discovered
two indians on a high hill. nothing very remarkable
took place, the Misquetors are not so troublesom this evening
as they have been, the air is cool &c.

 
[1]

See vol. i, p. 290, ante.—Ed.

Thursday (Saturday) 14th: August 1806

Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on. when we were opposit
the Minetares Grand Village[2] we Saw a number of the


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Nativs viewing of [us] we derected the Blunderbuses fired
Several times, Soon after we Came too at a Croud of the
nativs on the bank opposit the Village of the Shoe Indians or
Mah-har-haś at which place I saw the principal Chief of the
Little Village of the Menitarre & the principal Chief of the
Mah-har-has. those people were extreamly pleased to See us.
the chief of the little Village of the Menetarras cried Most
imoderately, I enquired the cause and was informed it was
for the loss of his Son who had been killed latterly by the
Blackfoot Indians. after a delay of a fiew minits I proceeded
on to the black cats (Mandan) Village on the N.E. side of the
Missouri where I intended to Encamp but the Sand blew in
Such a manner that we deturmined not to continue on that
side but return to the side we had left. here we were visited
by all the inhabitants of this village who appeared equally as
well pleased to see us as those above. I walked up to the
Black Cats village & eate some simnins with him, and Smoked
a pipe this Village I discovered had been rebuilt sin[c]e I left
it and much smaller than it was; enquiring into the cause was
informed that a quarrel had taken place and (a number of)
Lodges had removed to the opposd. Side. I had soon as I
landed despatched Shabono to the Minetarras inviting the
Chiefs to visit us, & Drewyer down to the lower Village of
the Mandans to ask Mr. Jessomme to come and enterpret for
us. Mr. Jessomme arived and I spoke to the chief of the
Village informing them that we spoke to them as we had done
when we were with them last and we now repeeted our invitation
to the principal Chiefs of all the Villages to accompany
us to the U States &c. &c. the Black Cat Chief of the Mandans,
spoke and informed me that he wished to Visit the
United States and his Great Father but was afraid of the
Scioux who were yet at war with them and had killed several
of their men since we had left them, and were on the river
below and would certainly kill him if he attempted to go down.
I indeavered to do away [with] his objections by informing
him that we would not suffer those Indians to hurt any of our
red children who should think proper to accompany us, and
on their return they would be equally protected, and their

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presents which would be very liberal, with themselves, conveyed
to their own Country at the expence of the U. States
&c &c. The chief promised us some corn tomorrow. after the
Council I directed the Canoes to cross the river to a brook
opposit where we should be under the wind and in a plain
where we would be clear of musquetors &c. after crossing the
Chief of the Mah-har-has told me if I would send with him he
would let me have some corn. I directed Sergt Gass & 2 men
to accompany him to his Village, they Soon returned loaded
with Corn. the Chief and his wife also came down. I gave
his wife a fiew Needles &c The Great Chief of all the Menitarras
the one eye[3] came to camp also Several other Chiefs of
the different Villages. I assembled all the Chiefs on a leavel
Spot on the band[k] and spoke to them (see next book).[4]

 
[2]

The party missed by a few weeks a meeting with Alexander Henry, who remained
at the Mandan and Minitaree villages during July 19–29; see his Journal
(Coues's ed.), i, pp. 322–404. He mentions Lewis and Clark several times, and relates
many interesting details regarding the Indian tribes at this place.—Ed.

[3]

See vol. i, p. 270, ante.—Ed.

[4]

Here ends the journal in Codex M; the remainder (four leaves) is occupied by
the weather record for June–August, 1806, which we transfer to "Meteorology," in
our vol. vi. The journal continues from this point in Codex N, also written by
Clark, through August 15–September 26—the party having reached St. Louis on
September 23.—Ed.

Thursday August 15th. 1806 (continued)
Mandans Vilg.

after assembling the Chiefs and Smokeing one pipe, I informed
them that I still Spoke the Same words which we had
Spoken to them when we first arived in their Country in the
fall of 1804. we then envited them to visit their great father
the president of the U. States and to hear his own Councils
and recieve his Gifts from his own hands as also See the population
of a government which can at their pleasure protect and
Secure you from all your enimies, and chastize all those who
will shut their years to his Councils. we now offer to take
you at the expense of our Government and Send you back to
your Country again with a considerable present in Merchendize
which you will receive of your great Father. I urged the
necessity of their going on with us as it would be the means
of hastening those Suppl[i]es of Merchindize which would be
Sent to their Country and exchanged as before mentioned for


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a moderate price in Pelteries and furs &c. the great chief of
the Menetaras Spoke, he Said he wished to go down and see
his great father very much, but that the Scioux were in the
road and would most certainly kill him or any others who
should go down they were bad people and would not listen
to any thing which was told them. when he Saw us last we
told him that we had made peace with all the nations below,
Since that time the Seioux had killed 8 of their people and
Stole a number of their horses. he Said that he had opened
his ears and followed our Councils, he had made peace with
the Chyennes and rocky Mountains indians, and repieted the
same objecctions as mentioned. that he went to war against
none and was willing to recieve all nations as friends. he Said
that the Ricaras had Stolen from his people a number of horses
at different times and his people had killed 2 Ricaras. if the
Sieoux were at peace with them and could be depended on he
as also other Chiefs of the villages would be glad to go and
See their great father, but as they were all afraid of the Sieoux
they should not go down &c.

The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans Village on the North
Side of the Missouri sent over and requested me to go over to
his village which invertation I axceptd and crossed over to his
Village. he had a parcel of corn about 12 bushels in a pile in
his lodge. he told me that his people had but little corn part
of which they had given me. after takeing a Smoke he informed
me that as the Scioux were very troublesom and the
road to his great father dangerous none of this village would go
down with us. I told the Cheifs and wariers of the village who
were then present that we were anxious that some of the village
Should go and See their great father and hear his good words &
receve his bountifull gifts &c. and told them to pitch on Some
Man on which they could rely on and Send him to see their
Great father, they made the same objections which the Chief
had done before. a young man offered to go down, and they
all agreed for him to go down the charactor of this young
man I knew as a bad one and made an objection as to his age
and Chareckter at this time Gibson who was with me informed
me that this young man had Stole his knife and had it then in


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his possession, this I informed the Chief and directed him to
give up the knife he delivered the knife with a very faint
apology for his haveing it in his possession. I then reproached
those people for wishing to send such a man to See and hear
the words of so great a man as their great father, they hung
their heads and said nothing for some time when the Cheif
spoke and Said that they were afraid to Send any one for fear
of their being killed by the Sieux. after smoking a pipe and
relateing some passages I recrossed to our Camp. being informed
by one of our enterpreters that the 2d. Chief of the
Mandans comonly called the little crow[5] intended to accompany
us down, I took Charbono and walked to the Village to see
this Chief and talk with him on the subject he told me he had
deturmined to go down, but wished to have a council first with
his people which would be in the after part of the day. I
smoked a pipe with the little Crow and returned to the boat.
Colter one of our men expressed a desire to join Some trappers
[the two Illinois Men we met, & who now came down to us] who
offered to become shearers with [him] and furnish traps &c. the
offer [was] a very advantagious one, to him, his services could
be dispenced with from this down and as we were disposed to
be of service to any one of our party who had performed their
duty as well as Colter had done, we agreed to allow him the
privilage provided no one of the party would ask or expect a
Similar permission to which they all agreeed that they wished
Colter every suckcess and that as we did not wish any of them
to Seperate untill we Should arive at St. Louis they would not
apply or expect it &c.[6] The Maharha Chief brought us Some
Corn, as did also the Chief of the little village of the Menetarras
on mules of which they have Several. [bought from the

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Crow. Inds. who get or Steal them from the Spaniards
] The
evening is cool and windy. great number of the nativs of
the different villages came to view us and exchange robes with
our men for their Skins we gave Jo Colter Some Small articles
which we did not want and some powder & lead. the party
also gave him several articles which will be usefull to him on his
expedittion. This evening Charbono informed me that our
back was scercely turned before a war party from the two
menetarry villages followed on and attacked and killed the
Snake Indians whome we had seen and in the engagement
between them and the Snake Indians they had lost two men
one of which was the Son of the principal Chief of the little
village of the Menitarras. that they had also went to war from
the Menetarras and killed two Ricaras. he further informed
me that a missunderstanding had taken place between the
Mandans & Minetarras and had very nearly come to blows
about a woman, the Menitarres at length presented a pipe
and a reconsilliation took place between them.

 
[5]

This is the chief Kagohanis, or Little Raven; see vol. i, p. 212, ante.—Ed.

[6]

Colter remained on the upper rivers and in the mountains until the spring of 1810,
during which time he had many adventures—the most perilous of which was his capture
by the Blackfoot Indians, and his race against them for his life, with which he
barely escaped. On returning to St. Louis (1810) he gave valuable geographical information
to William Clark, which the latter used in his large map of the Great
West, published in the Biddle edition. Colter was the first explorer of a considerable
region, including notably the Yellowstone National Park. See account of his life and
explorations in Chittenden, Amer. Fur Trade, ii, pp. 713–723; Wheeler, Trail of
Lewis and Clari
, i, pp. 98–105.—Ed.

Friday 16th. August 1806

a cool morning. Sent up Sergt. Pryor to the Mandan village
for some corn which they offered to give us. he informed that
they had more corn collected for us than our Canoes could carry
six load of which he brought down. I thanked the Chief for
his kindness and informed him that our canoes would not carry
any more corn than we had already brought down. at 10 A.M.
the Chiefs of the different villages came to see us and smoke a
pipe &c. as our swivel could no longer be Serveceable to us as
it could not be fireed on board the largest Perogue, we concluded
to make a present of it to the Great Chief of the Menitaras
(the One Eye) with a view to ingratiate him more Strongly
in our favour I had the Swivel Charged and Collected the
Chiefs in a circle around it and adressed them with great ceremoney.
told them I had listened with much attention to what
the One Eye had Said yesterday and beleived that he was sincere
& Spoke from his heart. I reproached them very severely
for not attending to what had been said to them by us in council
in the fall of 1804 and at different times in the winter of


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1804 & 5, and told them our backs were scercely turned befor
a party followed and killed the pore defenceless Snake indians
whom we had taken by the hand & told them not to be afraid
that you would never them Strike again &c. also mentioned
the ricer[a]s &c. The little cherry old Chief of the Menetarras[7]
spoke as follows Viz: "Father we wish to go down
with you to See our Great Father, but we know the nations
below and are afraid of the Scioux who will be on the river and
will kill us on our return home. The Scioux has Stolen our
horses and killed 8 of our men Since you left us, and the
Ricaras have also Struck us. we Staid at home and listened to
what you had told us. we at length went to war against the
Scioux and met with Ricaras and killed two of them, they were
on their way to strike us. We will attend to your word and
not hurt any people all Shall be Welcom and we Shall do as
you direct." The One Eye said his ears would always be open
to the word of his great father and Shut against bad council
&c. I then [with] a good deel of ceremony made a preasent
of the swivel to the One Eye Chief, and told him when he
fired this gun to remember the words of his great father which
we had given him. this gun had anounced the words of his
great father to all the nations which we had seen &c. &c. after
the council was over the gun was fired & delivered, they chief
appeared to be much pleased and conveyed it immediately to
his village &c. we Settled with and discharged colter. in the
evening I walked to the village to see the little crow and know
when he would be ready, took with me a flag intending to give
him to leave at his lodge but to my astonishment he informed
me he had declined going down the reason of which I found
was through a jellousy between himself and the principal Chief.
he refused a flag & we Sent for Mr. Jessomme and told him to
use his influence to prevail on one of the Chiefs to accompany
us and we would employ him. he informed us soon after that
the big white Chief would go if we would take his wife & Son
& Jessoms wife & 2 children [which] we wer[e] obliged to
agree to do

 
[7]

Apparently Caltarcota, or Cherry growing on a bush; see vol. i, p. 213,
ante.—Ed.


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Saturday 17th. of August 1806

a cool morning gave some powder & Ball to Big White
Chief Settled with Touisant Chabono for his services as an
enterpreter the price of a horse and Lodge purchased of him
for public Service in all amounting to 500$ 33 1/3 cents. derected
two of the largest of the Canoes be fastened together with
poles tied across them So as to make them Study [steady] for
the purpose of Conveying the Indians and enterpreter and their
families

we were visited by all the principal Chiefs of the Menetarras
to take their leave of us at 2 oClock we left our encampment
after takeing leave of Colter who also Set out up the river in
company with Messrs. Dickson & Handcock.[8] we also took
our leave of T. Chabono, his Snake Indian wife and their child
[son] who had accompanied us on our rout to the pacific
ocean in the capacity of interpreter and interprete[s]s.
T. Chabono wished much to accompany us in the said Capacity
if we could have prevailed [upon] the Menetarre Chiefs to dec[e]nd
the river with us to the U. States, but as none of those
Chiefs of whoes language he was Conversent would accompany
us, his services were no longer of use to the U. States and he
was therefore discharged and paid up.[9] we offered to convey
him down to the Illinois if he chose to go, he declined proceeding
on at present, observing that he had no acquaintance or
prospects of makeing a liveing below, and must continue to live
in the way that he had done. I offered to take his little son a
butifull promising child who is 19 months old to which they
both himself & wife wer willing provided the child had been
weened. they observed that in one year the boy would be
sufficiently old to leave his mother & he would then take him
to me if I would be so freindly as to raise the child for him in


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such a manner as I thought proper, to which I agreeed &c.
we droped down to the Big White Cheifs Mandan village ½ a
mile below on the South Side, all the Indians proceeded on
down by land. and I walked to the lodge of the Chief whome
I found sorounded by his friends the men were Setting in a
circle Smokeing and the womin crying. he Sent his baggage
with his wife & son, with the Interpreter Jessomme & his wife
and 2 children to the Canoes provided for them. after Smokeing
one pipe, and distributing some powder & lead which we
had given him, he informed me that he was ready and we were
accompd. to the Canoes by all the village Maney of them Cried
out aloud.[10] as I was about to shake with the Grand Cheifs of
all the villages there assembled they requested me to Set one
minit longer with them which I readily agreed to and directed
a pipe to be lit. the Cheifs informed that when we first came
to their Country they did not beleive all we Said we then
told them, but they were now convinced that every thing we
had told them were true, that they should keep in memory
every thing which we had said to them, and Strictly attend to
our advice, that their young men Should Stay at home and
Should no[t] go again to war against any nation, that if any
atacted them they should defend themselves, that we might
depend on what they said, and requested us to inform their
great father. the also requested me to tell the Ricaras to come
and see them, not to be afraid that no harm Should be done
them, that they were anxious to be in peace with them.

The Seeoux they said they had no dependance in and Should
kill them whenever they came into their country to do them
harm &c. I told them that we had always told them to defend
themselves, but not to strike those nations we had taken by the
hand, the Sieoux with whome they were at war we had never
seen on our return we Should inform their great father of
their conduct towards his faithfull red children and he would
take Such Steps as will bring about a lasting peace between
them and his faithfull red children. I informed them that we
should inform the ricaras what they had requested &c. The


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Grand Chief of the Minetarres said that the Great Cheif who
was going down with [us] to see their great father was a[s]
well as if he went also, and on his return he would be fully informed
of the words of his great father, and requested us to
take care of this Gt. Chief. we then saluted them with a gun
and set out and proceeded on to Fort Mandan where I landed
and went to view the old works the houses except one in the
rear bastion was burnt by accident, some pickets were standing
in front next to the river.[11] we proceeded on to the old Ricara
village the S E wind was so hard and the waves so high that
we were obliged to come too, & camp on the S W Side near
the old Village (18 Mil[e]s)

 
[8]

On the fly-leaf of Codex L is the following memorandum: "Joseph Dickson
[and] Forrest Hancock. from the Illinois the former the latter from Boon's settlement;"
see pp. 242, 243, note, ante.—Ed.

[9]

The interpreter, who intends settling among these Indians, and to whom they
[Lewis and Clark] gave the blacksmith's tools, supposing they might be useful to the
nation.—Gass (p. 366).

See Appendix, in our vol. vii, for letter written to Charbonneau by Clark, three
days later.—Ed.

[10]

See p. 393, note 3, post, for data relative to Shahaka (Big White, Fr. Le Blanc),
and his subsequent adventures.—Ed.

[11]

The erosion of the river wore away the site of Fort Mandan, and when Prince
Maximilian visited this country in 1833 there was not the smallest trace of the post.
See Thwaites, Early Western Travels, xxii–xxiv.—Ed.

Monday 18th. August 1806

moderate rain last night, the wind of this morning from
the S.E. as to cause the water to be so rough that we could not
proceed on untill 8 a.m. at which time it fell a little & we proceeded
on tho' the waves were yet high and the wind Strong.
Saw Several Indians on either side of the river. at 9 A.M. I
saw an Indian running down the beech and appd. to be anxious
to speak to us I derected the Canoes to land. this Indian
proved to be the brother of the Chief we had on board and
came down from his Camp at no great distance to take his
leave of his brother. the Chief gave him a par of Legins and
took an effectunate leave of his brother and we procedeed on
haveing previously sent on 2 canoes with hunters to kill some
meat at 2 P.M. we overtook the Canoe hunters, they had
killed three deer which was divided and we halted and cooked
some dinner on the Sandbar. wind still high and from the
same point. The Chief pointed out Several places where he
Said his nation formerly lived and related some extroadinary
Stories of their tredition. after Dinner we proceeded on to
a point on the NE. side opposit the remains of an old Mandan
village a little below the enterance of Chiss-che-tor [Heart]
River and the place we Encamped as we assended this river


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20th. of October 1804 haveing come 40 miles to day.[12] after
landing which was a little before night the hunters run out
into the bottom and Killed four deer. The winds blew hard
from the S.E. all day which retarded our progress very much
after the fires were made I set my self down with the bigwhite
man Chiefe and made a number of enquiries into the tredition
of his nation as well as the time of their inhabiting the number
of villages the remains of which we see on different parts of
the river, as also the cause of their evacuation. he told me his
nation first came out of the ground where they had a great
village. a grape vine grew down through the Earth to their
village and they Saw light Some of their people assended by
the grape vine upon the earth, and saw Buffalow and every
kind of animal also Grapes plumbs &c. they gathered some
grapes & took down the vine to the village, and they tasted
and found them good, and deturmined to go up and live upon
earth, and great numbers climbed the vine and got upon earth
men womin and children. at length a large big bellied woman
in climbing broke the vine and fell and all that were left in
the village below has remained there ever since (The Mandans
beleive when they die that they return to this village)[13] Those
who were left on earth made a village on the river below and
were very noumerous &c. he said that he was born [about 40
years
] [ago] in the Village Opposit to our camp and at that
time his nation inhabited 7 villages as large as that and were
full of people, the Sieoux and Smallpox killed the greater
part of them and made them so weak that all that were left
only made two small villages when collected, which were built
near the old Ricaras village above, their troubles with the
Seeoux & Pawnees or Ricaras Compelled them to move and
build a village where they now live. [Qu: The Village of the
Mandans on the North East side was formed of two villages
[who]
formerly lived on the East side opposite the 7. War & Small pox
reduced them to one vill which crossed & joined the 2 vills. near
ricaras haveing first settled
(before the 7 came into 2) on East side

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Then they moved with the 2 to where they now live, so that the
vills originally was of 9 vills
(See Note)] he Said that the Menitarras
Came out of the water to the East and came to this
country and built a village near the mandans from whome they
got corn beens &c. they were very noumerous and resided in
one village a little above this place on the opposit side. they
quarreled about a buffalow, and two bands left the village and
went into the plains, (those two bands are now known bye the
title Pounch, and Crow Indians.[14] the ballance of the Menetaras
moved their village to where it now Stands where they
have lived ever Since

 
[12]

See vol. i, p. 201, note 2, ante.—Ed.

[13]

Maximilian (op. cit.) gives a tradition similar to this, which he says occurred
after a great deluge.—Ed.

[14]

On the relation between the Minitaree and the Crow, see our vol. i, p. 130, note 2; p. 208, note 2.—Ed.

Tuesday 19th. of August 1806

Some rain last night and this morning the wind rose and
blew with great Violence untill 4 P.M. and as our camp was
on a Sand bar we were very much distressd with the clouds of
sand. I directed the hunters to proceed on down the bottom
and kill and butcher some meat and if the wind Should lie that
I should proceed on down to their Camp &c. Capt. Lewis'es
wounds are heeling very fast, I am much in hope of his being
able to walk in 8 or 10 days. at 4 P.M. the wind seased to
blow with that violence which it had done all day we Set out
and proceeded on down. the hunters which was sent out this
morning killed 4 Elk & 12 deer near the river we came too
and brought in the most of the flesh and proceeded on to a Sand
[bar] on the N E Side and Encamped. the wind rose and become
very strong from the S.E. and a great appearance of rain.
Jessomme the Interpreter let me have a piece of a lodge and the
Squars pitched or Stretched it over Some Sticks, under this
piece of leather I Slept dry, it is the only covering which I
have had Sufficient to keep off the rain Since I left the Columbia.
it began to rain moderately soon after night. The indians appear
well satisfyed with the party and mode of proceedure. we
decended only 10 Miles to day saw some Elk and buffalow
on the Shore near where we Encamped. the Elk beginning
to run. the Buffalow are done running & the bulls are pore.


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Wednesday 20th. of August 1806

a violent hard rain about day light this morning. all wet
except myself and the indians. we embarked a little after Sun
rise wind moderate and ahead. we proceeded on at Meridn.
passed the enterance of cannonball river imediately above is the
remains of a large Sieoux encampment which appears to have
been made this Spring. at 3 P M passed the enterance of
Wardepon[15] River [Scioux boundary to which they claim the country]
Saw great number of wolves on the bank some Buffalow
& Elk, tho' not so abundant as near the River Rochejhone.
passed the place where we left the last encampment of Ricaras
in the fall 1804 and encamped on a Sandbar from the N.E.
Side, haveing made 81 miles only, the wind blew hard all
day which caused the waves to rise high and flack over into
the Small Canoes in such a manner as to employ one hand in
throwing the water out. The plains begin to change their appearance
the grass is turning of a yellow colour. I observe a
great alteration in the Current course and appearance of this
pt. of the Missouri. in places where there was Sand bars in the
fall 1804 at this time the main current passes, and where the
current then passed is now a Sand bar. Sand bars which were
then naked are now covered with willow several feet high. the
enterance of some of the Rivers & creeks changed owing to
the mud thrown into them, and a layor of mud over some of
the bottoms of 8 inches thick.

 
[15]

Written Warreconne, when the explorers first saw this stream (Oct. 16, 1804);
now Big Beaver Creek. See vol. i, p. 195, ante.—Ed.

Thursday 21th. August 1806

Musquetors very troublesom in the early part of last night
and again this morning I directed Sergt. Ordway to proceed
on to where there was some ash and get enough for two ores
which were wanting. Men all put their arms in perfect order
and we set out at 5 a.m. over took Sergt. ordway with wood
for oars &c. at 8 A.M. Met three frenchmen Comeing up,
they proved to be three men from the Ricaras two of them


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Reeved[16] & Greinyea wintered with us at the mandans in 1804
we Came too, those men informed us that they were on their
way to the Mandans, and intended to go down to the Illinois
this fall. one of them quit[e] a young lad[17] requested a passage
down to the Illinois, we concented and he got into a
Canoe to [ply]an Ore. Those men informd. us that 700 Seeoux
had passed the Ricaras on their way to war with the Mandans
& Menitarras and that their encampment where the Squaws
and children wer, was Some place near the Big Bend of this
river below. no ricaras had accompanied them but were all at
home, they also informed us that no trader had arived at the
Ricaras this Season, and that they were informed that the Pania
or Ricara Chief who went to the United States last Spring was
a year, died on his return at Some place near the Sieoux river
&c.[18] those men had nether powder nor lead we gave them
a horn of powder and some balls and after a delay of an hour
we parted from the 2 men Reevey & Grienway and proceeded
on. the wind rose and bley[w] from the N.W. at half past
11 a.m. we arived in view of the upper Ricara villages, a Great
number of womin Collecting wood on the banks, we Saluted
the village with four guns and they returned the Salute by fireing
Several guns in the village, I observed Several very white
Lodges on the hill above the Town which the ricaras from the
Shore informed me were Chyennes who had just arived.[19] we
landed opposit to the 2d. Village and were met by the most of
the men women and children of each village as also the Chyennes,
they all appeared anxious to take us by the hand and much
rejoiced to See us return. I steped on Shore and was Saluted
by the two great Chiefs, whome we had made or given Medals
to as we assend[ed] this river in 1804, and also Saluted by a
great number both of Ricaras & Chyennes, as they appeared

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anxious to here what we had done &c. as well as to here Something
about the Mandans & Menetarras. I Set my self down
on the Side of the Bank and the Chiefs & brave men of the
Ricaras & Chyennes formed a cercle around me. after takeing
a Smoke of Mandan tobacco which the Big white Chief who
was seated on my left hand furnished, I informed them as I
had before informed the Mandans & Menitarras, where we had
been, what we had done and said to the different nations in
there favour and envited Some of their chiefs to accompany us
down and See their great father and receve from his own mouth
his good councils and from his own hands his bountifull gifts
&c. telling pretty much the Same which I had told the mandans
and menitarras. told them not to be afraid of any nation
below that none would hurt them &c. a man of about 32 years
of age was intreduced to me as the 1st Cheif of the nation this
man they call the grey eyes[20] or [blank space in MS.] he was
absent from the Nation at the time we passed up, the man
whome we had acknowledged as the principal chief informed
me that the Grey eyes was a greater Chief than himself and
that he had given up all his pretentions with the Flag and
Medal to the Grey eyes. The principal chief of the Chyenne's
[Ricaras] was then introduced he is a Stout jolley fellow of
about 35 years of age whome the Ricaras call the Grey Eyes I
also told the ricaras that I was very sorrey to here that they
were not on friendly terms with their neighbours the Mandans
& Menetarras, and had not listened to what we had said to
them but had Suffered their young men to join the Sieoux who
had killed 8 Mandans &c. that their young men had Stolen
the horses of the Minetarras, in retaliation for those enjories
the Mandans & Menetarras had sent out a war party and killed
2 ricaras. how could they expect other nations would be at
peace with them when they themselves would not listen to what
their great father had told them. I further informed them that
the Mandans & Menetaras had opened their ears to what we

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had said to them but had Staid at home untill they were Struck
that they were still disposed to be friendly and on good terms
with the ricaras, they then Saw the great chief of the Mandans
by my Side who was on his way to see his great father, and was
derected by his nation & the Menetaras & Maharhas, to Smoke
in the pipe of peace with you and to tell you not to be afraid
to go to their towns, or take the Birds in the plains that their
ears were open to our councils and no harm Should be done
to a Ricara. The Chief will speak presently. The Grey eyes
Chief of the ricaras made a very animated Speach in which he
mentioned his willi[ng]ness of following the councels which we
had given them that they had some bad young men who would
not listen to the councels but would join the Seioux, those
men they had discarded and drove out of their villages, that
the Sieoux were the cause of their Missunderstanding &c.
that they were a bad peoples, that they had killed Several of
the Ricaras Since I Saw them That Several of the chiefs wished
to accompany us down to See their great father, but wi[s]hed
to see the Chief who went down last Sumer return first, he
expressed some apprehention as to the Safty of that chiefs in
passing the Sieoux. that the Ricaras had every wish to be
friendly with the Mandans &c. that every mandan &c. who
chose to visit the ricares should be Safe that he Should continue
with his nation and See that they followed the council
which we had given them &c. The Sun being very hot the
Chyenne Chief envited us to his Lodge which was pitched in
the plain at no great distance from the River. I accepted the
invitation and accompanied him to his lodge which was new
and much larger than any which I have Seen it was made
of 20 dressed Buffalow Skins in the Same form of the Seeoux
and lodges of other nations of this quarter about this lodges
was 20 others several of them of nearly the Same Size. I enquired
for the ballance of the nation and was informed that
they were near at hand and would arive on tomorrow and
when all together amounted to 120 Lodges. after Smokeing
I gave a medal of the Small size to the Chyenne Chief &c.
which appeared to alarm him, he had a robe and a fleece of
fat Buffalow meat brought and gave me with the meadel back

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and informed me that he knew that the white people were all
medecine and that he was afraid of the midal or any thing that
white people gave to them.[21] I had previously explained the
cause of my g[i]veing him the medal & flag, and again told him
the use of the medal and the caus[e] of my giveing it to him,
and again put it about his neck delivering him up his preasent
of a roab & meat, informing him that this was the medecene
which his Great father directed me to deliver to all the great
chiefs who listened to his word and followed his councils, that
he had done so and I should leave the medal with him as a
token of his cincerity &c. he doubled the quantity of meat,
and received the medal

The Big White chief of the Mandans Spoke at some length
explaining the cause of the Misunderstanding between his
nation and the ricaras, informing them of his wish to be on the
most friendly termes &c. the Chyennes accused both nations
of being in folt [fault]. I told to them all that if they wished
to be hapy that they must Shake off all intimecy with the Seioux
and unite themselves in a Strong allience and attend to what
we had told them &c. which they promesed all to do and we
Smoked and parted on the best terms, the Mandan Chief was
Saluted by Several Cheifs and brave men on his way with me
to the river. I had requested the ricaras & Chyennes to inform
me as Soon as possible of their intentions of going down with
us to see their great father or not. in the evening the Great
Chief requested that I would walk to his house which I did,
he gave me about 2 quarts (carrots) of Tobacco, 2 beaver Skins
and a trencher of boiled corn & beans to eat (as it is the custom
of all the Nations on the Missouri to give Something to every
white man who enters their lodge something to eat) this chief


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informed me that none of his chiefs wished to go down with us
they all wished to see the cheif who went down return first,
that the Chyennes were a wild people and were afraid to go.
that they Should all listen to what I had said. I gave him
Some ribon to Suspend his Medal to and a Shell which the
Snake indians gave me for which he was very much pleased.
The interpreter informed me that the cheifs of those villages
had no intention of going down one the cheifs of the village
on the island talkd. of going down. I returned to the
boat where I found the principal chief of the lower vilege
who had cut part of his hair and disfigured himself in Such
a manner that I did not know him, he informed me the Seeux
had killed his nephew and that [he] Was in tears for him &c.
we deturmined to proceed down to the Island and accordingly
took the chief on board and proceeded on down to the 1sd. village
at which place we arived a little before dark and were met
as before by nearly every individual of the Village, we Saluted
them and landed imediately opposit the town. The one arm
2d. Cheif of this village whome we had expected to accompany
us down Spoke to the mandan Cheif in a loud and thretening
tone which caused me to be Some what alarmed for the Safty
of that cheif, I inform the Ricaras of this village that the
Mandans had opened their ears to and fold. our councils, that
this cheif was on his way to see their Great Father the P. of
U S. and was under our protection that if any enjorey was done
to him by any nation that we Should all die to a man. I told
the Ricaras that they had told us lies, they promised to be at
peace with the mandans & Menetarras. that our back was
Scercely turned before they went to war & Killd. them and Stole
their horses &c. The Cheif then envited me & the Mandan
Chief to his house to talk there. I accompanied him, after
takeing a very Serimonious Smoke the 2d. Cheif informd. me that
he had opened his ears to what we had said to him at the time
we gave him the medal that we had not been to war against
any Natn. since, that [he had] once been to See the mandans
and they were going to kill him, they had not killed the Mandans
it was the Seeoux who killed them and not the ricaras,
he Said that the Mandan cheif was as Safe as if he was in his

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own vilg that he had opened his ears and could here as well as
the mandans. I then informd them what I had told the upper
villages and we all become perfectly reconsiled all to each other
and Smoked in the most perfect harmony we had invatations
to go into their lodges and eate. I at length went to the grand
chiefs Lodge by his particular invitation, the Mandan chief
Stuck close to me the Chief had prepd. a Supper of boiled
young corn, beens & [s]quashes of which he gave me in
Wooden bowls he also gave me near 2 quarts of the Tobacco
(Seed), & informed me he had always had his ears open to
what we had Said, that he was well convinced that the Seeoux
was the caus[e] of all the trouble between the Mandans & them
the Ricaras had Stolen horses from the Mandan which had
been returned all except one which could not be got, this
mischief was done by some young men who was bad. a long
conversation of explanations took place between the Ricara
& mandan chiefs which appeared to be Satisfactory on both
Sides. the Chief gave a pipe with great form and every thing
appeared to be made up. I returned to the river & went to
bead. the Indians contd. on board. made 22 miles to day
only.

 
[16]

Among the first settlers of the State of Oregon were two old Frenchmen who
claimed to have been with the expedition of Lewis and Clark; one of them was Francis
Rivet.—Eva E. Dye.

See our vol. i, p. 283, note 2.—Ed.

[17]

A young man who formerly belonged to the Northwest Company of traders.—
Gass (p. 368).

[18]

See our vol. i, pp. 283, 286.—Ed.

[19]

For the Cheyenne, see our vol. i, p. 172, note 2.—Ed.

[20]

Grey Eyes (Les Yeux Gris) was met by Bradbury upon his expedition to the
Upper Missouri in 1811. See Thwaites, Early Western Travels, v, p. 130. This
same chief was killed by Leavenworth's artillery, which shelled the villages in 1823;
the officers were told that he had been the instigator of the opposition of his tribe to
the white traders.—Ed.

[21]

The Big Bellies pretended to say that these ornaments conveyed bad medicine
to them and their children. They are exceedingly superstitious, and, therefore, supposed
that they could not better dispose of those articles than by giving them to the
natives with whom they frequently warred, in hope the ill-luck would be conveyed to
them. They were disgusted at the high-sounding language the American captains
bestowed upon themselves and their own nation . . . these haughty savages, who
have too high an opinion of themselves to entertain the least idea of acknowledging
any race to be their superiors.—Alexander Henry (Journal, Coues's ed., i,
p. 350).

Friday 22nd. August 1806

rained all the last night every person and all our bedding
wet, the morning cloudy, at 8 A.M. I was requested to go
to the Chiefs, I walkd up and he informed me that he Should
not go down but would Stay and take care of the village and
prevent the young men from doing rong and Spoke much to
the Same porpt of the Grey Eyes, the 2d. chief Spoke to the
Same and all they Said was only a repitition of what they had
Said before. the Chief gave me some Soft corn and the 2d
chief Some Tobacco seed. the Interpreter Garrow[22] informed
me that he had been Speeking to the chiefs & warries this
morning and assured me that they had no intention of going
down untill the return of the cheif who went down last Spring
was a year. I told the cheifs to attend to what we had Said


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to them, that in a Short time they would find our words true
and councils good, they promised to attend Strictly to what
had been Said to them, and observed that they must trade
with the Sieoux one more time to get guns and powder; that
they had no guns or powder and had more horses than they
had use for, after they got guns and powder that they would
never again have any thing to do with them &c. &c. I returned
[to] the canoes & derected the men to prepare to Set
out. Some chyennes from two Lodges on the Main S E
Shore came and Smoked with me and at 11 A.M. we Set out
haveing parted with those people who appeared to be Sorry to
part with us. at this nation we found a french man by the
name of Rokey who was one of our Engagees as high as the
Mandans this man had Spend all his wages, and requested
to return with us we agreed to give him a passage down. I
directed 2 guns to be fired. we proceeded on passed the
Marapa and the We ter hoo [Grand] Rivers, and landed to dry
our bedding and robes &c which were all wet. here we delayed
untill 6 P.M. and dryed our things which were much
Spoiled

I derected 5 of the hunters to proceed on to grouse Island
a fiew miles below and hunt on that island untill we arived,
we proceeded on to the Main N E Shore below the Island
and encamped, the hunters joined us without any thing. they
Saw no game on the island. we made only 17 Miles to day
below the ricaras the river Widens and the Sand bars are
emencely noumerous much less timber in the bottoms than
above

The Chyenne's are portly Indians much the complections
of the Mandans & ricaras high Cheeks, Streight limbed [&
high noses] the men are large, their dress in Sumner is
Simpelly a roab of a light buffalow Skin with or without the
hair and a Breach clout [& mockerson] Some ware leagins and
mockersons, their ornaments are but fiew and those are composed
principally of such articles as they precure from other
indians Such as blue beeds, Shell, red paint rings of brass
broaches &c. they also ware Bears claws about their necks,
Strips of otter Skin (which they as well as the ricaras are excessively


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fond of) around their neck[s] falling back behind.
their ears are cut at the lower part, but fiew of them wore
ornements in them, their hair is generally cut in the forehead
above their eyes and Small ornimented plats in front of each
Sholder the remainder of the hair is either twisted in with
horse or buffalow hair divided into two plats over the Sholder
or what is most common flow's back, Their women are
homely, corse feetured wide mouths they ware simpially a
leather habit made in a plain form of two pieces of equal
length and equal weadth, which is sewn together with Sinues
from the tail to about half way from the hip to the arm, a
String fastens the 2 pieces together over the Sholders leaveing
a flap or lapells which fall over near half way [down] their
body both before and behind. those dresses usially fall as low
as mid leg, they are frequently ornemented with beeds and
shells & Elk tuskes of which all Indians are very fond of,
those dresses are als[o] frequently Printed in various regular
figures with hot sticks which are rubed on the leather with
Such velosity as to nearly burn it this is very handsom.
they were their hair flowing and are excessively fond of ornimenting
their ears with blue beeds. this nation [is] peceably
disposed they may be estimated at from 350 to 400 men
inhabiting from 130 to 150 Lodges, they are rich in horses
& Dogs, the dogs carry a great preportion of their light
baggage. they confess to be at war with no nation except the
Sieoux with whome they have ever since their remembrance
been on a difencive war, with the Bands of Sieoux. as I was
about to leave the cheifs [of the Chyennes] lodge he requested
me to Send Some traders to them, that their country was full
of beaver and they would then be encouraged to kill beaver,
but now they had no use for them as they could get nothing
for their skins and did not know well, how to catch beaver.
if the white people would come amongst them they would
become acquainted and they [the white people] would learn
them how to take the beaver. I promised the Nation that
I would inform their Great father the President of the U
States, and he would have them Supplied with goods, and
mentioned in what manner they would be Supplied &c. &c.


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I am happy to have it in my power to Say that my worthy
friend Capt. Lewis is recovering fast, he walked a little to day
for the first time. I have discontinu[e]d the tent in the hole
the ball came out

I have before mentioned that the Mandans Maharhas
Menetarras & Ricarras, keep their horses in the Lodge with
themselves at night.

 
[22]

For this man, see our vol. 1, pp. 7, 272.—Ed.

Saturday 23rd. August 1806

We Set out very early, the wind rose & became very hard,
we passed the Sar-war-kar-na-har [Owl, or Moreau] river at
10 A.M. and at half past eleven the wind became so high and
the water so rough that we were obliged to put to Shore and
continue untill 3 p.m. when we had a Small Shower of rain
after which the wind lay, and we proceeded on. soon after we
landed I sent Shields & Jo. & Reubin Fields down to the next
bottom of timber to hunt untill our arival. we proceeded on
Slowly and landed in the bottom. the hunters had killed three
Elk and 3 Deer the deer were pore and Elk not fat had
the[m] fleece[d] & brought in. the Musqueters large and very
troublesom. at 4 P.M. a cloud from the N W with a violent
rain for about half an hour after the rain we again proceeded
on. I observe great quantities of Grapes and choke cheries,
also a speces of currunt which I had never before observed
the lea[ve]s is larger than those above, the currt. black and very
inferior to either the yellow, red, or perple. at dark we landed
on a Small Sand bar under a Bluff on the S W. Side and encamped,
this Situation was one which I had Chosen to avoid
the Musquetors, they were not very troublesom after we landed.
we came only 40 Miles to daye

My Frend Capt. Lewis is recovering fast the hole in his thy
where the Ball passed out is closed and appears to be nearly
well. the one where the ball entered discharges very well.

Sunday 24th. August 1806

a fair morning we Set out as usial about sunrise and proceeded
on untill 2 P M when the wind blew so hard from the
N.W. that we could not proceed came too on the S W. side


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where we continued untill 5 P.M. when the wind lay a little
and we again proceeded on. at 8 a M. we passed La-hoo-cat's
Island, opposit the lower point of this Island on the S.W. Side
near the top of the Bluff I observed a Stratea of White stone
I landed and examined it found it to be a Soft White Stone
containing very fine grit, when expd. to the Sun and become Dry
this Stone will Crumble the Clay of this bluff bothe above
and below is remarkably Black. at half past 9 a.m. passed
Good hope Island and at 11 a.m passed Caution Island a
Short distance below this Island we came too. Sent out
a hunter he Saw Several deer they were very wild and he re
turned without haveing killed any, the deer on this pt. of the
Missouri is mostly the Mule or black tail Species, we Saw
only 6 buffalow to day. the Sieoux have been laterly encamped
on the river and have Secured the most of the game opp. a
large trail has passed on a derection to the enterance of the
Chyenne this probably is the trail of a war party, at 5 P.M.
we proceeded on a fiew miles and Encampd. on the gouge of
the lookout bend of 20 miles around and 3/4 through, a little
above an old tradeing house and 4 miles above of our outward
bound encampment of the 1st. of October 1804, haveing made
43 miles to day.

Monday 25th. August 1806

a cool clear morning a Stiff breeze a head we Set out at the
usial hour and proceeded on very well. I derected Shields
Collins Shannon and the two fieldses to proceed on in the two
small canoes to the Pania Island and hunt on that Island untill
we came on, they Set out before daylight. The Skirt of timber
in the bend above the Chyenne is not very considerable the
timber is scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the S W Side of the
river, and the thickest part is at the distance of 6 & 10 miles
from the Chyenne, a narrow bottom of small cotton trees is
also on the N E pt. at the distance of from 4 to 4 1/2 miles above
the chyenne imediately at the enterance of that river I observe
but fiew large trees some small Growth and willows on
the lower Side bottom on the Missouri about 1/2 a mile and extends
up the Chyen 1 mile about a quarter of a mile above


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is a 2d. bottom of cotton timber, in the point above the
Chyenne there is a considerable bottom of about 2 miles on
that river and a large timbered bottom a Short distance above.
at 8 A.M. we came to at the mouth of the Chyenne to delay
untill 12 to make a meridian Observation and directed 3
hunters to proceed up this river and hunt its bottoms untill
twelve at which hour we Shall proceed on. the hunters returned
with 2 deer. the Chyenne discharges but little water
which is much the colour of the missouri tho not So muddy
I observe a very eligable Situation on the bank of the chyenne
on it's lower Side about 100 paces from it's enterance. this
Situation is above the high floods and has a perfect command
of each river we obtained a Meridian altitude with the Sextt.
and artificial Horizon 112°. 50′ 00″—after which we proceeded
on passed the pania Island and came up with Shields and
Collins they had killed two deer only at 3 P.M. we passed
the place where we Saw the last encampement of Troublesom
Tetons below the old pania village on the S W Side, a very
large timbered bottom on the N. E. Side imediately below the
Pania Island. Latd. of Chyenne is [blanko spaces′ in MS.″] North. at
Sunset we landed about the center of a large bottom on the
N E Side a little below the enterance of No timber Creek and
below our Encampment of 29th. of Sept. 1804. Dreyer killed
a deer after we encamped. a little above our encampmt the
ricaras had formerly a large village on each side which was
destroyed by the Seioux. there is the remains of 5 other
villages on the S W. side below the Chyenne river and one on
Lehocatts Isld. all those villages have been broken up by the
Seioux. This day proved a fine Still day and the men played
their oars and we made 48 miles to day. The 2 fields and
Shannon did not join this evening which caused me to encamp
earlier than usial for them. we Saw no game on the plains to
day. the Tetons have been on the river not long since.

Tuesday 26th. of August 1806

a heavy dew this morning the hunters or Shannon & the
2 fields came up at Sunrise and we Set out, they had killed
only 2 Small deer one of which they had eat at 8 passed the


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place the Tetons were encamped at the time they attempted to
Stop us in Sept. 1804, and at 9 A.M. passed the enterance of
Teton River. Saw Several black tail or Mule deer and Sent
out to kill them but they were wild and the hunters could not
get a Shot at either of them. a fiew miles below the Teton
river I observed a buffalow Skin Canoe lying on the S Shore
and a Short distance lower a raft which induces me to suspect
that the Tetons are not on the Missouri at the big bend as we
were informed by the Ricaras, but up the Teton river. at
Meridn. we halted on the N E. Side opposit a handsom leavel
plain in which there is great quantities of plumbs which are not
yet ripe. we passed the enterance of Smoke Creek and landed
and continued two hours to Stop a leak in the perogue and fix
the Stearing oare, Saw great quantities of Grapes, they are
black tho' not thurerly ripe. at 5 P.M. we landed a[t]
Louisells fort on Ceder Island, this fort is entire and every
part appears to be in the same state it was when we passed it in
Sept. 1804 I observed the appearance of 3 fires in the houses
which appeared to have been made 10 or 12 days past. we
proceeded on about 10 miles lower and encamped on the S.W.
Side opposit our outward bound encampment of the 21st. of
Septr. 1804, a fiew miles above Tylors [Medicine Hill] River.
we had a Stiff breeze from the S.E. which continued to blow
the greater part of the night dry and pleasent. as we were
now in the country where we were informed the Seioux were
assembled we were much on our guard deturmined to put up
with no insults from those bands of Seioux, all the arms &c.
in perfect order. Capt. L. is Still on the mending hand he
walks a little. I have discontinued the tent in the hole where
the ball entered, agreeable to his request he tells me that he
is fully convinced that the wound is sufficiently heeled for the
tents to be discontinued. we made 60 miles to day with the
wind ahead greater part of the day.

Wednesday 27th. Augt. 1806

Set out before Sunrise a Stiff breeze a head from the East
proceeded to the enterance of Tylors river on the S W Side
and landed on a Sand bar and Sent out the hunters to kill


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Some meat. our Stock of meat being now exausted and this
the most favourable place to procure a fresh supply, the
hunters returned in 3 hours without haveing killed any thing.
they informed me that the bottoms were entirely beaten up
and the grass laid flat by the emence number of Buffalow
which had been here a short time past. the deer had all left
the bottom. they saw several Buffalow Bulls which they did
not think proper to kill as they were unfit for use. here we
discover the first Signs of the wild turkey. at 1 P. M. we
halted in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river,
which was very timely as our meat was entirely exhosted. at
2 P. M. we again proceeded on down saw Several Buffalow
Bulls on each side of the river also some deer of the common
kind. at 6 P. M. we herd the bellowing of the Buffalow Bulls
in the lower Isld. of the Big bend below the Gouge which
induced a belief that there was some fat cows, 5 men went
out from the 2 Small canoes which was a little ahead, and
killed two cows one Bull and a calf nether of them were fat.
we droped the Perogue & Canoes to the lower part of the
Island near to where the buffalow was killed and incamped
haveing come 45 Miles only to day. had the buffalow
butch[er]ed and brought in and divided. My friend Capt.
Lewis hurt himself very much by takeing a longer walk on
the sand bar in my absence at the buffalow than he had
strength to undergo, which caused him to remain very unwell
all night.

Thursday 28th. of August 1806

Capt. Lewis had [a] bad nights rest and is not very well this
morning. we set out early and proceded on very well, Saw
a number of Buffalow bulls on the banks in different places.
passd. the 3 rivers of the Scioux pass at 9 A. M. a Short distance
below on the S W Side sent out Ruebin & Joseph Field to
hunt for the Mule deer or the antilope neither of which we
have either the Skins or scellitens of, we derected those two
men to proceed on down to the places we encamped the 16th &
17th of Septr. 1804 and which place the party had called pleasant


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camp[23] from the great abundance of Game Such as Buffalow,
Elk, antilopes, Blacktail or Mule deer, fallow deer common
deer wolves barking Squirels, Turkies and a variety of other
animals, aded to which there was a great abundance of the
most delicious plumbs and grapes. [At] this Situation which
is a short distance above the enterance of Corvus [Crow, or
American] Creek we are deturmined to delay one day for the
purpose of precureing the sceletins of the Mule deer & antilope,
and some barking Squirels. a fiew miles below the place
the 2 fields were Set on Shore we Set Drewyer and Labeech
on shore with the Same directions which had been given to the
2 field's at 12 oClock we Landed on the S W. Side at the
Same Spot which we had encamped on the 16th and 17th of
September 1804, and formed a camp, Sent out Serjt. Pryor,
Shields, Go. Gibson, Willard and Collins to hunt in the plains
up Corvus Creek for the antilope and Mule deer sent out
Bratten and Frazier to kill the barking Squirel, and Gave
directions to all of them to kill the Magpye if they Should
See any of them several of the men and the Squaws of the
enterpreter Jessomme and the Mandan Chief went to some
plumb bushes in the bottom and geathered more plumbs than
the party could eate in 2 days, those plumbs are of 3 speces,
the most of them large and well flavored. our Situation is
pleasent a high bottom thinly timbered and covered with low
grass without misquitors. at 3 P. M. Drewyer and Labeech
arived, the latter haveing killd. a Deer of the Common Species
only. in the evening late all the hunters returned without any
Species of animal we were in want of, they killed 4 common
deer and two buffalow a part of the best of the meat of those
animals they brought in. we precured two of the barking
Squirels only. as we could not precure any Mule deer or
antelope we concluded to send the hunters on a head early in
the morning and delay untill 10 A.M to give them time to
hunt. I derected Shannon and Collins to go on the opposit
Side and Labeech and Willard to proceed down on this side
at some distance from the river and join the party at the round

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Island &c. and R. Field to proceed on slowly in the Small
Canoe to that place and take in any thing which the hunters
might kill. Made 32 Miles to day. The hunters informed
me that they Saw great numbers of Buffalow in the Plains. I
Saw Several herds of those animals on either Side to day at a
distance.

 
[23]

A name not mentioned heretofore. See our vol. i, p. 151, where this camping
place was called "Plumb Camb."—Ed.

Friday 29th. August 1806

A cloudy morning the hunters proceeded on agreeable to
their orders of last night. I sent out two men to the village
of barking Squirels with directions to kill some of them. they
after 2 hours returned and informed me that not one of those
Squirels were to be seen out of their holes. the skins of the
party which they had been dressing since yesterday being now
completely dressed I derected all loose baggage to be put on
board the Canoes and at 10 A. M. set out and proceeded on
passed the White river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance
of Shannons Creek where we were joined by Labeech
Shannon and Willard, they had killed 2 common de[e]r but
no Mule deer or antilopes. Willard informed me that he saw
2 antilopes but could not get near to them. Willard and
Labeech waded White river a fiew miles above its enterance
and inform me that they found it 2 feet water and 200 yards
wide. the water of this river at this time [is] nearly as white
as milk. put Drewyer out to hunt on the S.W. side and proceeded
on below the round Island and landed on the N. E.
side I with Several of the men went out in pursute of Buffalow.
the men killed 2 Bulls near me they were very pore. I
assended to the high Country and from an eminance I had a
view of the plains for a great distance. from this eminance I
had a view of a greater number of buffalow than I had ever
seen before at one time. I must have seen near 20,000 of
those animals feeding on this plain. I have observed that in
the country between the nations which are at war with each
other the greatest numbers of wild animals are to be found.
on my return to the river I killed 2 young deer. after Dinner
I proceeded down the river about 3 mile to the Camp of Jo.
& Rubin fields and Collins, and encamped on the S. W. Side


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a little below our encampment of 13 Septr. 1804, haveing made
20 Miles only. neither of the hunters killed either a Black
tail deer or an antilope. Jo. Fields & Shields each killed a
porcupin and two others of the hunters killed Deer, Drewyer
did not join us untill 10 P. M. he informed that he Saw
some antilopes and Mule deer but could kill none of them.
Jo. Field informed that he wounded [a] female of the Mule
deer a little below our camp late in the evening and could not
prosue her I directed him to set out with 3 others and follow
the Deer and get her if possible early in the morning.

Saturday 30th. of August 1806.

Capt. Lewis is mending Slowly. we set out at the usial hour
and proceeded on very well a fiew miles Jo Field who was
on the shore being behind I derected one of the Small Canoes
with R. Fields & Shannon to continue on the point of a Sand
bar untill he coms up. I took 3 hunters and walked on the
N. E. Shore with a view to kill some fat meet. we had not
proceeded far before Saw a large plumb orchd. of the most delicious
plumbs, out of this orchard 2 large Buck Elks ran
the hunters killed them. I stoped the canoes and brought
in the flesh which was fat and fine, here the party collected
as many plumbs as they could eate and Several pecks of which
they put by &c. after a delay of nearly 2 hours we again proceeded
on downwards passed 3 small Islands and as we were
about to land at the place appointed to wait for the 2 fields
and Shannon, I saw Several men on horseback which with
the help of a spie glass I found to be Indians on the high hills
to the N. E. we landed on the S. W. side and I sent out two
men to a village of Barking Squirels to kill some of those
animals imedeatily after landing about 20 Indians was discovered
on an eminance a little above us on the opposite Side.
one of those men I took to be a french man from his [having]
a blanket capo[t]e & a handkerchief around his head, imediately
after 80 or 90 Indian men all armed with fusees & Bows
& arrows came out of a wood on the opposite bank about 1/4
of a mile below us. they fired. of[f] their guns as a Salute


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we returned the Salute with 2 rounds. We were at a loss to
deturmin of what nation those indians were. from their hostile
appearance we were apprehensive they were Tetons, but
from the country through which they roved we were willing
to believe them either the Yanktons, Pon[c]ars or Mahars
either of which nations are well disposed towards the white
people. I deturmined to find out who they were without
running any risque of the party and indians, and therefore
took three french men who could Speak the Mahar Pania
and some Seeoux and in a Small canoe I went over to a Sand
bar which extended Sufficiently near the opposite shore to
converse. imedeately after I set out 3 young men set out
from the opposite Side and swam next me on the Sand bar.
I derected the men to Speak to them in the Pania and Mahar
Languages first neither of Which they could understand I
then derected the man who could speak a fiew words of Seioux
to inquire what nation or tribe they belong to they informed
me that they were Tetons and their chief was Tar-tack-kah-sab-bar
or the black buffalow this chief I knew very well to
be the one we had seen with his band at Teton river which
band had attempted to detain us in the fall of 1804 as we assended
this river and with whome we wer near comeing to
blows. I told those Indians that they had been deef to our
councils and ill treated us as we assended this river two years
past, that they had abused all the whites who had visited them
since. I believed them to be bad people & should not suffer
them to cross to the Side on which the party lay, and directed
them to return with their band to their camp, that if any
of them come near our camp we Should kill them certainly. I lef[t] them on the bear [bar] and returned to th[e] party and
examined the arms &c those indians seeing some corn in the
canoe requested some of it which I refused being deturmined
to have nothing to do with those people. Several others
swam across one of which understood pania, and as our pania
interpreter was a very good one we had it in our power to inform
what we wished. I told this man to inform his nation
that we had not forgot their treatment to us as we passed up
this river &c. that they had treated all the white people who

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had visited them very badly; robed them of their goods, and
had wounded one man whom I had Seen, we viewed them
as bad people and no more traders would be Suffered to come
to them, and whenever the white people wished to visit the
nations above they would come sufficiently Strong to whip any
vilenous party who dare to oppose them and words to the
same purpote. I also told them that I was informed that a
part of all their bands were going to war against the Mandans
&c, and that they would be well whiped as the Mandans &
Minitarres &[c] had a plenty of Guns Powder and ball, and
we had given them a cannon to defend themselves. and derected
them to return from the Sand bar and inform their
chiefs what we had said to them, and to keep away from the
river or we Should kill every one of them &c. &c. those
fellows requested to be allowed to come across and make cumerads
which we positively refused and I directed them to return
imediately which they did and after they had informed the
Chiefs &c. as I suppose what we had said to them, they all set
out on their return to their camps back of a high hill. 7 of
them halted on the top of the hill and blackguarded us, told
us to come across and they would kill us all &c of which we
took no notice. we all this time were extreamly anxious for
the arival of the 2 fields & Shannon whome we had left behind,
and were some what consd. as to their Safty. to our
great joy those men hove in Sight at 6 P. M. Jo. Fields had
killed 3 black tail or mule deer. we then Set out, as I wished
to see what those Indians on the hill would act, we steared
across near the opposit Shore, this notion put them [in]
some agitation as to our intentions, some set out on the
direction towards their Camps others walked about on the top
of the hill and one man walked down the hill to meet us and
invited us to land to which invitation I paid no kind of attention.
this man I knew to be the one who had in the fall 1804
accompanied us 2 days and is said to be the friend to the
white people. after we passd him he returned on the top of
the hill and gave 3 strokes with the gun (on the earththis is
swearing by the earth
) he had in his hand this I am informed
is a great oath among the indians. we proceeded on down

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about 6 miles and encamped on a large Sand bar in the middle
of the river about 2 miles above our encampment on Mud
Island on the 10th. Septr. 1804 haveing made 22 miles only to
Day. Saw Several indians on the hills at a distance this evening
viewing us. our encampment of this evening was a very
disagreeable one, bleak exposed to the winds, and the sand
wet. I pitched on this Situation to prevent being disturbed
by those Scioux in the course of the night as well as to avoid
the musquetors. Killed 9 whistleing squirels.

Sunday 31st August 1806

all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half past 11
P. M. last night the wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it
began to rain with hard claps of thunder and lightning the
clouds passd over and the wind Shifted about to the S W. &
blew with great violence so much so that all hands were obliged
to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent their being blown
off from the sand bar, however a Sudan Squal of wind broke
the cables of the two Small Canoes and with Some difficuelty
they were got to Shore Soon after the 2 canoes in which
Sergt Pryor and the indians go in broke loose with wiser and
Willard in them and were blown quite across the river to the
N. E. Shore where fortunately they arived Safe, I sent Sergt
Jo. Ordway with a Small Perogue and 6 men to prosue the
2 Canoes and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 canoes
being tied together 2 men could not manage them, the wind
Slackened a little and by 2 A. M. Sergt Ordway with Willard
Wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all safe, the wind continued
to blow and it rained untill day light all wet and disagreeable.
all the party examined their arms and put them in order, and
we set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on
the hills untill we passed the Island of Cedar at 9 A. M. the
morning cloudy and wind down th[e] river at 4 P. M. passed
the doome[24] and lowest village of Barking Squirels. this is
also the highest up the river where I observed the fox Squirel


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in the bottom above the doome on N. E. side I killed 2 fox
Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as [on] the
banks as usial. the Sun Shone with a number of flying
Clouds. we encamped on the N. E. Side a little below our
Encampment of the 5th. of Septr. on no preserve Island [near
Chouteau bluffs] haveing come 70 Miles.

 
[24]

For this landmark, which Clark elsewhere calls the "Cupola," instead of the
Dome, see also our vol. i, p. 141, note 2.—Ed.