University of Virginia Library

Chapter XXX

LEWIS'S SHORT—CUT TO THE MISSOURI,
AND EXPLORATION OF MARIA'S RIVER

XXX. Lewis's Journal, July 3–August 12, 1806

[First draught, under July 3, 1806:][1]

SENT out the hunters they killed three deer gave the
indians half. the mosqu[i]toes troublesome built fires
for our horses. we did not get over the river until 6
P.M. I fell in the water and wet the chronometer. we made
three rafts. Indians express great apprehension with rispect to
the Minetares. saw the fresh track of a horse in the main
road which leads up this river which the indians supposed to
be the Shalees. Took leave of Capt. C. and party to-day.
gave one of my shirts and a handkercheif to the two Indians
whom we met on Collin's Creek and detained some days.

Thursday July 3rd. 1806.

All arrangements being now compleated for carrying into
effect the several scheemes we had planed for execution on our
return, we saddled our horses and set out I took leave of my
worthy friend and companion Capt. Clark and the party that
accompanyed him. I could not avoid feeling much concern
on this occasion although I hoped this seperation was only
momentary. I proceeded down Clark's river seven miles with
my party of nine men and five indians. here the Indians
recommended our passing the river which was rapid and 150
yds. wide. 2 miles above this place I passed the entrance of the
East branch of Clark's River which discharges itself by two

channels; the water of this river is more terbid than the main
stream and is from 90 to 120 yds. wide. as we had no other
means of passing the river we busied ourselves collecting dry
timber for the purpose of constructing rafts; timber being
scarce we found considerable difficulty in procuring as much as
made three small rafts. we arrived at 11 A. M. and had our
rafts completed by 3 P. M. when we dined and began to take
over our baggage which we effected in the course of 3 hours
the rafts being obliged to return several times. the Indians
swam over their horses and drew over their baggage in little
basons of deer skins which they constructed in a very few
minutes for that purpose. we drove our horses in after them
and they followed to the opposite shore. I remained myself
with two men who could scarcely swim untill the last; by this
time the raft by passing so frequently had fallen a considerable
distance down the river to a rapid and difficult part of it
crouded with several small Islands and willow bars which were
now overflown; with these men I set out on the raft and was
soon hurried down with the current a mile and a half before
we made shore, on our approach to the shore the raft sunk
and I was drawn off the raft by a bush and swam on shore the
two men remained on the raft and fortunately effected a landing
at some little distance below. I wet the chronometer by
this accedent which I had placed in my fob as I conceived for
greater security. I now joined the party and we proceeded
with the indians about 3 Ms. to a small Creek and encamped at
sunset.[2] I sent out the hunters who soon returned with three
very fine deer of which I gave the indians half. These people
now informed me that the road which they shewed me at no
great distance from our Camp would lead us up the East
branch of Clark's river and [to] a river they called Cokahlarishkit
or the river of the road to buffaloe and thence to medicine
river and the falls of the Missouri where we wished to go.

MS. page by Lewis, July 3, 1806.

they alledged that as the road was a well beaten track we could
not now miss our way and as they were affraid of meeting with
their enimies the Minnetares they could not think of continuing
with us any longer, that they wished now to proceed down
Clark's river in surch of their friends the Shalees. they informed
us that not far from the dividing ridge between the
waters of this and the Missouri rivers the roads forked they
recommended the left hand as the best rout but said they
would both lead us to the falls of the Missouri.[3] I directed
the hunters to turn out early in the morning and indeavour to
kill some more meat for these people whom I was unwilling
to leave without giving them a good supply of provision after
their having been so obliging as to conduct us through those
tremendious mountains. the musquetoes were so excessively
troublesome this evening that we were obliged to kindle large
fires for our horses these insects torture them in such manner
untill they placed themselves in the smoke of the fires that I
realy thought they would become frantic. about an hour after
dark the air become so coald that the musquetoes disappeared.

July 3rd Courses and distances from travellers rest [first draught].

   

North	7 M.	to the crossing of Clarke's river, valley wide tops of the hills covered with Long leaf pine. bottoms pine and Cottonwood. passed a small branch at 3 M on W. side and at 1 M. further the entrance of a small creek on E. side. at 5 miles Co-kah-lár-coosh or buffaloe river falls in on the East side. Clark river 120 yds. wide buffaloe river [blank space in MS.] yard wide set out at 8 A. M. halted at 11 A. M. to make a raft dined here.
N. 75 E.	7 M.	through a handsome level plain to the point where the Cokahlarishkit River enters the mountains, or where the hills close it in on both sides. we halted five mile short of this place on a little stream where we encamped.

Courses and distances July 3rd. 1806

   

North	7. M.	down the West side of Clark's river to the place at which we passed it. forded travelers rest C. 1/2 a mile below our camp, passed a branch on west side at 2-l/2 M. further also at 1 M. further passed the entrance of a small creek on the E side of Clark's river, and two miles short of the extremity of this course passed the entrance of the East branch of Clark's river which discharges itself in two channels. Clark's river 150 yds. wide the East branch from 90 to 120. the vally of Clark's river is extensive beatifull level plains and praries. the tops of the hills and mountains on either hand are covered with long leafed pine larch and fir; near the river the bottoms are timbered with long leafed pine and cottonwood.
N. 75 Ms.	E. 7. M./14	through a handsom level plain to the point at which the East branch enters the mountains or where the hills set in near it on either side. we halted and encamped on a small creek 5 miles short of the extremity of this course. a Creek 15 yds. wide falls into the E. branch on it's N. side one mile short of the mountain.

We saw the fresh track of a horse this evening in the road
near our camp which the indians supposed to be a Shale spye.
we killed a prarie hen with the short and pointed tail she had
a number of young which could just fly.

[First draught:]

July 4th. 1806

An Indian arrived alone from the West side of the mountains,
he had pursued and overtook us here. sent out the
hunters early to kill some meat to give the indians as they
would not go with us further and I was unwilling after the
service they had rendered to send them away without a good
store of provision. they are going down Clark's River in
surch of the Shalees their friends, and from thence intend
returning by this rout home again, they fleesed their meat

and informed us that they should dry it and leave it for their
homeward journey. Set out at 12. had killed no deer.

         

N. 75. E.	5 M.	passed a large creek 15 yds. wide at four miles and entered the mountain passed this creek at one mile on which we were encamped. open plain wide bottom to the river
S. 75. E.	3 M.	along the north side of the river bottom widens [to] a prairie
N. 45 E.	1 M.	passing a small branch at the extremity of this course.
S. 45 E.	1 M	to the forks of the east branch of Clarke's River a handsom wide plain below on the S. side.
S East. Ms.	8 M./18	up the buffaloe road river or Co-kah-lah'-ishkit river. through a timbered country, mountains high rocky and but little bottoms. land poor encamped in a handsom high timbered bottom near the river where there was fine grass killed grown[d] squirrel of speceis different from any I had seen

Friday July 4th. 1806.

I arrose early this morning and sent out Drewyer and the
Fieldses to hunt. at 6. A. M. a man of the Pallotepellows
(Pelloat pallahs) arrived from the West side of the Rocky
mountains; he had pursued us a few days after our departure
and overtook us at this place; he proved to be the same
young man who had first attempted to pass the rocky mountains
early in June last when we lay on the Kooskooske and
was obliged to relinquish the enterprize in consequence of the
debth and softness of the snow. I gave a shirt a handkercheif
and a small quantity of ammunition to the indians. at half
after eleven the hunters returned from the chase unsuccessful.
I now ordered the horses saddled smoked a pipe with these
friendly people and at noon bid them adieu. they had cut
the meat which I gave them last evening thin and exposed it

in the sun to dry informing me that they should leave it in
this neighbourhood untill they returned as a store for their
homeward journey, it is worthy of remark that these people
were about to return by the same pass by which they had conducted
through the difficult part of the Rocky Mountains,
altho they were about to decend Clark's river several days journey
in surch of the Shale's their relations, a circumstance which
to my mind furnishes sufficient evidence that there is not so
near or so good a rout to the plains of Columbia by land
along that river as that which we came, the several war routs
of the Minetarees which fall into this vally of Clark's river
concenter at traveller's rest beyond which point they have
never yet dared to venture in pursuit of the nations beyond
the mountains. all the nations also on the west side of the
mountain with whom we are acquainted inhabiting the waters
of Lewis's river & who visit the plains of the Missouri pass by
this rout. these affectionate people our guides betrayed every
emmotion of unfeigned regret at seperating from us;[4] they
said that they were confidint that the Pahkees, (the appellation
they give the Minnetares) would cut us off. the first 5
miles of our rout was through a part of the extensive plain in
which we were encamped, we then entered the mountains with
the East fork of Clark's river through a narrow confined pass
on it's N. side continuing up that river five Ms. further to the
entrance of the Cokahlahishkit R. which falls in on the N. E.
side, is 60 yds. wide deep and rapid. the banks bold not very
high but never overflow. the East fork below its junction
with this stream is 100 yds. wide and above it about 90. the
water of boath are terbid but the East branch much the most
so; their beds are composed of sand and gravel; the East
fork possesses a large portion of the former. neither of those
streams are navigable in consequence of the rapids and shoals
which obstruct their currents. thus far a plain or untimbered
country bordered the river which near the junction of these
streams spread into a handsome level plain of no great extent;
the hills were covered with long leafed pine and fir.[5] I now
continued my rout up the N. side of the Cokaplahishkit river
through a timbered country for 8 miles and encamped in a
handsom bottom on the river where there was an abundance
of excellent grass for our horses, the evening was fine, air
pleasant and no musquetoes. a few miles before we encamped
I killed a squirrel of the speceis common to the Rocky Mountains
and a ground squirrel of a speceis which I had never
before seen, I preserved the skins of both of these animals.

Courses and distances July 4th. 1806.

         

S. 75° E.	3 M.	along the N. side of the river, at 2 Ms. the bottom widens into a handsome prarie. river 110 yds. wide.
N. 45 E.	1. M.	through a high plain, passed a small branch at the extremity of this course.
S. 45, E.	1. M.	through a low leavel prarie to the entrance of the Cokahlah-ishkit river falling in on the N. side 60 yds. wide deep and rapid not navigable in consequence of the obstruction of rocks rapids, &c.
East—	8 M.	up the north side of the Cokahlah-ishkit R. through a timbered country, mountains high and rocky. river bottoms narrow and land poor. encamped
Ms.	13	at the extremity of this course on the bank of the river in a handsom timbered bottom.

A Suplement to Come in here enclosed[6]

July 5th. 1806.

Set out at 6 A. M. steered

     

N. 75 E.	3 1/2 M.	Passed a stout C[reek] N. Side at 12 1/2 M. another just above saw an old Indian encampment of 11 lodges of bark and [word illegible] on S. side at 3 1/2 M. killed a deer.
N. 25. E.	12 M.	passing a small creek at one M on S. side. on which there is a handsom and extensive Valley and plain for 10 or 12 Ms also another creek 12 yds. wide at 1/2 a mile further on N. side, and another 8 yds. wide on N. side at 5 Ms. further one [and] 1/2 M. short of the extremity of this course arrive at a high prarie on N. side from one to three miles in width extending up the river. halted and dined in the mouth of a little drane on the left of the plain where there was a considerable quantity of quawmash. saw a gang of antelopes here of which we killed one the does at this season herd with each other and have their young. the bucks are alone there are many wild horses on Clarkes river about the place we passed it we saw some of them at a distance, there are said to be many of them about the head of the Yellowstone river.
East	6 M.	to the entrance of Werner's Creek[7] 35 yds. wide through a high extensive prairie on N. side, hills low and timbered with the long leafed pine, larch, and some fir. the road passes at some distance to the left of the river and this cou[r]ses is with the river.

         

N. 22 W.	4 Miles	to a high insulated knob just above the entrance of a Creek 8 yards wide which discharges itself into Werners Creek.
N. 75 E.	2 1/2 M.	to the river passing through anextensive and handsom plain on Werner's Creek, crossing that creek at 1 M. and leaving a high prarie hills to the right seperating the plain from the river. saw two swan in this beautiful Creek.
East	3 M.	to the entrance of a large creek 20 yds. wide Called Seamans' Creek passing a creek at 1 m. 8 yds. wide. this course with the river, the road passing through an extensive high prarie rendered very uneven by a vast number of little hillucks and sink-holes. at the heads of these two creeks high broken mountains stand at the distance of
	10 M.	forming a kind of Cove generally of open untimbered country, we encamped on the lower side of the last creek just above it's entrance, here a war party had encamped about 2 months since and conceald their fires.
	31 M.

July 6th. 1806

Set out a little after sunrise passed the creek a
little above our encampment.

         

East	14 M.	to the point at which the river leaves the extensive plains and enters the mountains these plains I called the prarie of the knobs from a number of knobs being irregularly scattered through it. passed the N. fork[8] of the Cokahlarishkit River 192 at 7 M. it is 45 yds. wide deep and rapid. had some difficulty in passing it. passed a large crooked pond at 4 Ms. further, great Number of the burrowing squirr[e]ls in this prarie of the speceis common to the plains of Columbia saw some goats and deer. the hunters killed one of the latter. the trail which we take to be a returning war-party of the Minnetares of Fort de prarie becomes much fresher. they have a large pa[r]sel of horses. saw some Curloos, bee martains wood peckers plover, robins, doves, ravens, hawks and a variety of sparrows common to the plains also some ducks. the North fork is terbid as is also the main branch which is about 50 yds. wide the other streams are clear. these plains continue their course S. 75 E. and are wide where the river leaves them. up this valley and creek a road passes to Dearbourn's river and thence to the Missouri.
N. 60 E.	1 1/2	up the river. here we halted and dined and our hunters overtook us with a deer which they had killed. river bottoms narrow and country thickly timbered. Cotton-wood and pine grow intermixed in the river bottoms musquitoes extreemely troublesome. we expect to meet with the Minnetares and are therefore much on our guard both day and night. the bois rague[9] in blume. saw the common small blue flag and peppergrass. the southern wood and two other speceis of shrub are common in the prarie of knobs, preserved specemines of them. 193 passed several old Indian encampments of brush lodges.
S. 80 E.	2 M.	to two nearly equal forks of the river here the road forks also one leading up each branch these are the forks of which I presume the indians made mention.[10] passed a creek on N. side 12 Yds. wide shallow and clear.
N. 75 E.	8 M.	to our encampment of this evening over a steep high balld toped hill for 2 M. thence through and to the left of a large low bottom 2 M. thence three miles through a thick wood along the hill side bottoms narrow. thence one M. to our encampment on a large creek some little distance above it's mouth through a beatifull plain on the border of which we passed the remains of 32 old lodges. they appear to be those of the Minnetares as are all those we have seen to day. killed five deer and a beaver today. encamped on the creek much sign of beaver in this extensive bottom.
	25

July 7th 1806.

Set out at 7 A. M.

               

N. 75 E.	6 M.	with the road through a level beatifull plain on the North side of the river much timber in the bottoms hills also timbered with pitch pine. no long leafed pine since we left the praties of the knobs. crossed a branch of the creek 8 yds. wid on which we encamped at 1/4 M. also passed a creek 15 yds. wide at 1/4 further.
North	6 Ms.	passed the main creek at a mile [and] 1/2 and kept up it on the wrighthand side through handsom plain bottoms to the foot of a ridge which we ascended the main stream boar N. W. & W. as far as I could see it a wright hand fork falls into this creek at 1 M. above the commencement of this course.
N. 15. E.	8. M.	over two ridges and again striking the wrighthand fork at 4 Ms. then continued up it on the left hand side much appearance of beaver many dams. bottoms not wide and covered with low willow and grass. halted to dine at a large beaver dam the hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. deer are remarkably plenty and in good order. Reubin Fields wounded a moos deer this morning near our camp. my dog much worried. [by the moose.—Ed.]
N. 10 E.	3 M.	up the same creek. on the east side through a handsome narrow plain.
N. 45. E.	2 M.	passing the dividing ridge[11] betwen the waters of the Columbia and Missouri rivers at 1/4 of a mile, from this gap which is low and an easy ascent on the W. side the fort mountain bears North East, and appears to be distant about 20 Miles.[12] the road for one and 3/4 miles
		decends the hill and continues down a branch.
N. 20 W.	7 Ms.	over several hills and hollows along the foot of the mountain hights passing five small rivulets running to the wright.[13] saw some sighn of buffaloe early this morning in the valley where we encamped last evening from which it appears that the buffaloe do sometimes penetrate these mountains a few miles. we saw no buffaloe this evening. but much old appearance of dung, tracks &c. encamped on a small run under the foot of the mountain, after we encamped Drewyer killed two beaver and shot a third which bit his knee very badly and escaped
	32

July 8th. 1806.

Set out at 6 A. M.

         

N. 25 W.	3 1/2 M.	to the top of a hill from whence we saw the Shishequaw mountain about 8 M. distant, immediately before us. passed torrant (Dearborns's) river at 3 M. this stream comes from the S. W. out of the mountains which are about 5 Ms. to our left. the bed of the river is about 100 yds. wide tho' the water occupys only about 30 yds. it appears to spread over it's bottoms at certain seasons of the year and runs a mear torrant tearing up the trees by the roots which stand in it's bottom hense the name we have given it. the Shishiquaw mountain is a high insulated conic mountain standing several 196 miles in advance of the Eastern range of the rocky mountains. Country broken and mountainous to our wright.
North	14 1/2 Ms.	through an open plain to Shishequaw Creek 20 yds wide bottoms and considerable quantity of timber it leaves the mountain to the S. E. and enters the mountains.[14] we struck it about 10 miles below the mountain which boar S. 32 W. from us. the road continued along the foot of the mountain to the West of north which not being anything like our course and the country becoming tolerably level at the commencement of this course we steered through the plains leaving the road with a view to strike Medicine river and hunt down it to it's mouth in order to procure the necessary skins to make geer, and meat for the three men whom we mean to leave at the falls as none of them are hunters. we halted and dined on Shishequaw Creek R. Fields killed a fine buck and a goat; Josp. Fields saw two buffaloe below us some distance which are the first that have been seen. we saw a great number of deer goats and wolves as we passed through the plains this morning but no Elk or buffaloe. saw some barking squirrils much rejoiced at finding ourselves in the plains of the Missouri which abound with game.
N. 50. E.	2 M.	to the discharge of Shishequaw Creek into the Medicine River through an extensive beautifull and level bottom.
N. 85° E.	8. M.	to our encampment of this evening on a large island. the bottoms continue leve[l] low and extensive plains level and not very elivated particularly on the N. E. side of the river. the land of neither the plains nor bottoms is fertile. it is of a light colour intermixed with a considerable proportion of gravel the grass generally about 9 inghes high. the hunters were unsuccessful this evening. I killed a very large and the whitest woolf I have seen.
	28

July 9th 1806.

Set out early and had not proceeded far before it began to
rain. the air extreemly cold. halted a few minutes in some
old lodges untill it c[e]ased to rain in some measure. we then
proceeded and it rained without intermission wet us to the skin.

N. 80° E. 4 M. through a handsome level wide bottom in
which there is a considerable quan[ti]ty of narrow leafed cottonwood
timber. the river is generally about 80 yds. wide rapid
yet I think it might be navigated. it's bed is loose gravel and
pebbles. the banks low but seldom overflow. water clear.

S. 85 E. 4. Ms. Still on the S.W. side of the river through
wide and level bottoms some timber. Joseph feilds killed a
very fat buffaloe bull and we halted to dine.[15] we took the
best of the meat as much as we could possibly carry on our
horses. the day continuing rainy and cold I concluded to
remain all day. we feasted on the buffaloe. saw a number
of deer wolves and antelopes. killed two deer.

July 10th 1806.

Set out early and continued down the S. W. bank of the
river.

N 75 E 24 M. to our encampment in a grove of cottonwood
timber. the latter part of this course for 7 Miles there

is no timber in the river bottom, the other parts of the river
possesses bottoms of the wide leafed cottonwood. much the
greater part of the bottom is untimbered. the bottoms are
wide and level the high praries or plains are also beautiful
level and smooth. great quantities of prickly pear of two
kinds on the plains. the ground is renderd so miry by the
rain which fell yesterday that it is excessively fatiegueing to the
horses to travel. we came 10 miles and halted for dinner
the wind blowing down the river in the fore part of the day
was unfavourable to the hunters. they saw several gangs of
Elk but they having the wind of them ran off. in the evening
the wind set from the West and we fell in with a few elk
of which R. Fields and myself killed 3 one of which swam the
river and fell on the opposit [side] so we therefore lost it's skin
I sent the packhorses on with Sergt. Gass directing them to halt
and encamp at the first timber which proved to be about 7 Ms.
I retained frazier to assist in skining the Elk. we wer[e] about
this time joined by drawer. a large brown bear swam the river
near where we were and Drewyer shot and killed it. by the
time we butchered the[s]e 2 elk and bar it was near dark we
loaded our horses with the best of the meat and pursued the
party and found them encamped as they had been directed in
the first timber. we did not reach them until 9 P.M. they
informed us that they had seen a very large bear in the plains
which had pursued Sergt. Gass and Thomson some distance
but their horses enabled them to keep out of it's reach. they
were affraid to fire on the bear least their horses should throw
them as they were unaccustomed to the gun. we killed five
deer 3 Elk and a bear to day saw vast herds of buffaloe in the
evening below us on the river. we he[a]red them bellowing
about us all night. vast assemblages of wolves. saw a large
herd of Elk making down the river. passed a considerable
rapid in medicine river after dark. the river about a hundred
yards wide is deep and in many parts rappid and today has
been much crouded with islands. from our encampment[16] down
we know the river and there is no rapids and scarcely any
courant. goosberries are very abundant of the common red
kind and are begining to ripen. no currants on this river.
both species of the prickly pears just in blume.

July 11th 1806.

the morning was fair and the plains looked beatifull the grass
much improved by the late rain. the air was pleasant and a
vast assemblage of little birds which croud to the groves on
the river sung most enchantingly. we set out early. I sent
the hunters down Medicine river to hunt Elk and proceeded
with the party across the plain to the white bear Islands which I
found to be 8 Ms. distant my course S. 75 E. through a level
beautifull and extensive high plain covered with immence hirds
of buffaloe. it is now the season at which the buffaloe begin
to coppelate and the bulls keep a tremendious roaring we
could hear them for many miles and there are such numbers
of them that there is one continual roar. our horses had not
been acquainted with the buffaloe they appeared much allarmed
at their appearance and bellowing. when I arrived in sight of
the white-bear Islands the missouri bottoms on both sides of
the river were crouded with buffaloe I sincerely beleif that
there were not less than 10 thousand buffaloe within a circle
of 2 miles arround that place. I met with the hunters at a
little grove of timber opposite to the island where they had
killed a cow and were waiting our arrival. they had met with
no elk. I directed the hunters to kill some buffaloe as well
for the benifit of their skins to enable us to pass the river as
for their meat for the men I meant to leave at this place. we
unloaded our horses and encamped opposite to the Islands.
had the cow skined, and some willows sticks collected to make
canoes of the hides by 12 OCk. they killed eleven buffaloe
most of them in fine order. the bulls are now generally much
fatter than the cows and are fine beef. I sent out all hands
with the horses to assist in but[c]hering and bringing in the
meat by 3 in the evening. we had brought in a large quantity
of fine beef and as many hides as we wanted for canoes shelters

and geer. I then set all hands to prepare two canoes the one
we made after the mandan fassion with a single skin in the form
of a bason and the other we constructed of two skins on a plan
of our own. we were unable to compleat our canoes this evening.
the wind blew very hard. we continued our operations
untill dark and then retired to rest. I intend giving my horses
a couple of days rest at this place and deposit all my baggage
which is not necessary to my voyage up medicine river.[17]

July 12th. 1806.

We arrose early and resumed our operations in compleating
our canoes which we completed by 10 A. M. about this time
two of the men whom I had dispatched this morning in quest
of the horses returned with seven of them only. the remaining
ten of our best horses were absent and not to be found. I fear
that they are stolen. I dispatch[ed] two men on horseback in
surch of them. the wind blew so violently that 1 did not think
it prudent to attempt passing the river. at Noon Werner
returned having found three others of the horses near Fort
Mountain Sergt. Gass did not return untill 3 P.M. not having
found the horses. he had been about 8 ms. up Medecine river. I
now dispatched Joseph Fields and Drewyer in quest of them
the former returned at dark unsuccessfull and the latter con
tinued absent all night. at 5 P.M. the wind abated and we
transported our baggage and meat to the opposite shore in our
canoes which we found answered even beyond our expectations.
we swam our horses over also and encamped at sunset. Musquetoes
extreemly troublesome. I think the river is somewhat
higher than when we were here last summer. the present
season has been much more moist than the preceeding one.
the grass and weeds are much more luxouriant than they were
when I left this place on the 13th of July 1805. saw the
brown thrush, pigeons, doves &c. the yellow Currants begining
to ripen.

13th July.

removed above to my old station opposite the upper point
of the white bear island. formed our camp and set Thompson
etc at work to complete the geer for the horses. had the cash
opened found my bearskins entirly destroyed by the water,
the river having risen so high that the water had penitrated.
all my specimens of plants also lost. the Chart of the Missouri
fortunately escaped. opened my trunks and boxes and exposed
the articles to dry. found my papers damp and several articles
damp. the stoper had come out of a phial of laudinum and
the contents had run into the drawer and distroyed a gre[a]t
part of my medicine in such manner that it was past recovery.
waited very impatiently for the return of Drewyer he did not
arrive. Musquetoes excessively troublesome insomuch that
without the protection of my musquetoe bier I should have
found it impossible to wright a moment. the buffaloe are
leaving us fast and passing on to the S. East. killed a buffaloe
pecker [picker] a beatifull bird.[18]

14th July.

Had the carriage wheels dug up. found them in good order.
the iron frame of the boat had not suffered materially. had
the meat cut thiner and exposed to dry in the sun. and some
roots of cows of which I have yet a small stock pounded into
meal for my journey. I find the fat buffaloe meat a great
improvement to the mush of these roots. the old cash being
too damp to venture to deposit my trunks &c. in I sent them
over to the Large island and had them put on a high scaffold
among some thick brush and covered with skins. I take this
precaution lest some indians may visit the men I leave here
before the arrival of the main party and rob them. the hunters
killed a couple of wolves, the buffaloe have almost entirely
disappeared. saw the bee martin. the wolves are in great
numbers howling arround us and loling about in the plains in
view at the distance of two or three hundred yards. I counted

27 about the carcase of a buffaloe which lies in the water at the
upper point of the large island. these are generally of the
large kind. Drewyer did not return this evening.

15 July 1806.

Sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the
portage to see whether the large perogue and cash were safe.
Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that he had
tracked them to beyond our camp of the[19]

Tuesday July 15th. 1806.

Dispatched McNeal early this morning to the lower part of
portage in order to learn whether the Cash and white perogue
remained untouched or in what state they were. the men
employed in drying the meat, dressing deerskins and preparing
for the reception of the canoes. at 1.P.M. Drewyer returned
without the horses and reported that after a diligent surch of
2 days he had discovered where the horses had passed Dearborn's
river at which place there were 15 lodges that had been
abandoned about the time our horses were taken; he pursued
the tracks of a number of horses from these lodges to the
road which we had traveled over the mountains which they
struck about 3 ms. South of our encampment of the 7th. inst. and
had pursued this road Westwardly; I have no doubt but they
are a party of the Tushapahs who have been on a buffaloe
hunt. Drewyer informed that there camp was in a small
bottom on the river of about 5 acres inclosed by the steep and
rocky and lofty clifts of the river and that so closely had they
kept themselves and horses within this little spot that there
was not a track to be seen of them within a quarter of a mile
of that place. every spire of grass was eaten up by their horses
near their camp which had the appearance of their having
remained here some time. his horse being much fatiegued
with the ride he had given him and finding that the indians

had at least 2 days the start of him thought it best to return.
his safe return has releived me from great anxiety. I had
already settled it in my mind that a white-bear had killed him
and should have set out tomorrow in surch of him, and if I
could not find him to continue my rout to Maria's river. I
knew that if he met with a bear in the plains even he would
attack him. and that if any accedent should happen to seperate
him from his horse in that situation the chances in favour
of his being killed would be as 9 to 10. I felt so perfectly
satisfyed that he had returned in safety that I thought but little
of the horses although they were seven of the best I had. this
loss great as it is, is not intirely irreparable, or at least dose not
defeat my design of exploring Maria's river. I have yet 10
horses remaining, two of the best and two of the worst of which
I leave to assist the party in taking the canoes and baggage
over the portage and take the remaining 6 with me; these are
but indifferent horses most of them but I hope they may answer
our purposes. I shall leave three of my intended party, (viz)
Gass, Frazier and Werner, and take the two Feildses and
Drewyer. by having two spare horses we can releive those we
ride. having made this arrangement I gave orders for an early
departure in the morning, indeed I should have set out instantly
but McNeal road one of the horses which I intend to take and
has not yet returned. a little before dark McNeal returned
with his musquet broken off at the breach, and informed me
that on his arrival at willow run [on the portage] he had approached
a white bear within ten feet without discover[ing]
him the bear being in the thick brush, the horse took the
allarm and turning short threw him immediately under the
bear; this animal raised himself on his hinder feet for battle,
and gave him time to recover from his fall which he did in an
instant and with his clubbed musquet he struck the bear over
the head and cut him with the guard of the gun and broke off
the breech, the bear stunned with the stroke fell to the
ground and began to scratch his head with his feet; this gave
McNeal time to climb a willow tree which was near at hand
and thus fortunately made his escape. the bear waited at the
foot of the tree untill late in the evening before he left him,
when McNeal ventured down and caught his horse which had
by this time strayed off to the distance of 2 Ms. and returned
to camp. these bear are a most tremenduous animal; it seems
that the hand of providence has been most wonderfully in our
favor with rispect to them, or some of us would long since have
fallen a sacrifice to their farosity. there seems to be a sertain
fatality attatched to the neighbourhood of these falls, for there
is always a chapter of accedents prepared for us during our
residence at them. the musquetoes continue to infest us in
such manner that we can scarcely exist; for my own part I
am confined by them to my bier at least 3/4ths of my time. my
dog even howls with the torture he experiences from them,
they are almost insupportable, they are so numerous that we
frequently get them in our thr[o]ats as we breath.

Wednesday July 16th. 1806.

I dispatched a man early this morning to drive up the horses
as usual, he returned at 8 A. M. with one of them only.
allarmed at this occurrence I dispatched one of my best hands
on horseback in surch of them he returned at 10 A.M. with
them and I immediately set out. sent Drewyer and R. Fields
with the horses to the lower side of Medecine river, and proceeded
myself with all our baggage and J. Fields down the
missouri to the mouth of Medecine river in our canoe of
buffaloe skins we were compelled to swim the horses above
the whitebear island and again across medicine river as the
Missouri is of great width below the mouth of that river.
having arrived safely below Medicine river we immediately
sadled our horses and proceeded down the river to the handsom
fall of 47 feet where I halted about 2 hours and took a
haisty sketch of these falls; in the mean time we had some
meat cooked and took dinner after which we proceeded to the
grand falls where we arrived at sunset. on our way we saw
two very large bear on the opposite side of the river. as we
arrived in sight of the little wood below the falls we saw two
other bear enter it; this being the only wood in the neighbourhood
we were compelled of course to contend with the bear

for possession, and therefore left our horses in a place of
security and entered the wood which we surched in vain for the
bear, they had fled. here we encamped and the evening having
the appearance of rain made our beds and slept under a shelving
rock. these falls have abated much of their grandure since
I first arrived at them in June 1805, the water being much
lower at prese[n]t than it was at that moment, however they
are still a sublimely grand object. I determined to take a
second drawing of it in the morning. we saw a few buffaloe
as we passed today, the immence hirds which were about this
place on our arrival have principally passed the river and
directed their course downwards. we see a number of goats
or antilopes always in passing through the plains of the Missouri
above the Mandans. at this season they are thinly
scattered over the plains but seem universally distributed in
every part; they appear very inquisitive usually to learn what
we are as we pass, and frequently accompany us at no great
distance for miles, frequently halting and giving a loud whistle
through their nostrils, they are a very pretty animal and astonishingly
fleet and active. we spent this evening free from the
torture of the Musquetoes. there are a great number of geese
which usually raise their young above these falls about the
entrance of Medicine river we saw them in large flocks of several
hundred as we passed today. I saw both yesterday and
today the Cookkoo or as it is sometimes called the rain craw.
this bird is not met with west of the Rocky Mountains nor
within them.[20]

Thursday July 17th. 1806.

I arrose early this morning and made a drawing of the falls.
after which we took breakfast and departed. it being my
design to strike Maria's river about the place at which I left it
on my return to it's mouth in the begining of June 1805. I
steered my course through the wide and level plains which
have somewhat the appearance of an ocean, not a tree nor a
shrub to be seen. the land is not fertile, at least far less so,

than the plains of the Columbia or those lower down this
river, it is a light colored soil intermixed with a considerable
proportion of coarse gravel without sand, when dry it cracks
and appears thursty and is very hard, in it's wet state, it is as
soft and slipry as so much soft soap. the grass is naturally but
short and at present has been rendered much more so by the
graizing of the buffaloe, the whole face of the country as far
as the eye can reach looks like a well shaved bowling green,
in which immence and numerous herds of buffaloe were seen
feeding attended by their scarcely less numerous sheepherds
the wolves. we saw a number of goats as usual today, also
the party coloured plover with the brick red head and neck;
this bird remains about the little ponds which are distributed
over the face of these plains and here raise their young. we
killed a buffaloe cow as we passed throug[h] the plains and took
the hump and tonge which furnish ample rations for four men
one day. at 5 P. M. we arrived at rose [Tansy][21] river where
I purposed remaining all night as I could not reach maria's
river this evening and unless I did there would be but little
probability of our finding any wood and very probably no water
either. on our arrival at the river we saw where a wounded
and bleading buffaloe had just passed and concluded it was
probable that the indians had been runing them and were near
at hand. the Minnetares of Fort de prarie and the blackfoot
indians rove through this quarter of the country and as they
are a vicious lawless and reather an abandoned set of wretches
I wish to avoid an interview with them if possible. I have no
doubt but they would steel our horses if they have it in
their power and finding us weak should they happen to be
numerous wil most probably attempt to rob us of our arms
and baggage; at all events I am determined to take every
possible precaution to avoid them if possible. I hurried over
the river to a thick wood and turned out the horses to graize;
sent Drewyer to pursue and kill the wounded buffaloe in order
to determine whether it had been wounded by the indians or
not, and proceeded myself to reconnoitre the adjacent country
having sent R. Fields for the same purpose a different rout.
I ascended the river hills and by the help of my glass examined
the plains but could make no discovery, in about an hour I
returned to camp, where I met with the others who had been
as unsuccessfull as myself. Drewyer could not find the
wounded buffaloe. J. Fields whom I had left at camp had
already roasted some of the buffaloe meat and we took dinner
after which I sent Drewyer and R. Fields to resume their resurches
for the Indians; and set myself down to record the
transactions of the day. rose (Tansy) river is at this place
fifty yards wide, the water which is only about 3 feet deep
occupys about 35 yds. and is very terbid of a white colour. the
general course of this river is from East to West so far as I
can discover it's track through the plains, it's bottoms are
wide and well timbered with cottonwood [of] both the broad
and narrow leafed speceis. the bed of this stream is small
gravel and mud; it's banks are low but never overflow, the
hills are about 100 or 150 feet high; it possesses bluffs of
earth like the lower part of the Missouri; except the debth
and valocity of it's stream and it is the Missouri in miniture.
from the size of rose river at this place and it's direction I have
no doubt but it takes it's source within the first range of the
Rocky mountains. the bush which bears the red berry is here
in great plenty in the river bottoms

Courses and distances July 17th. 1806.

   

N. 10°. W.	20. M.	from the great falls of the Missouri to rose river where we encamped on it's northern bank in a grove of cottonwood.
Ms.	20

The spies returned having killed 2 beaver and a deer. they
reported that they saw no appearance of Indians.

Friday July 18th. 1806.

We set out this morning a little before sunrise ascended the
river hills and continued our rout as yesterday through the
open plains at about 6 miles we reached the top of an elivated
plain which divides the waters of the rose river from those of

Maria's river.[22] from hence the North mountains, the South
mountains, the falls mountains and the tower mountain and
those arround and to the East of the latter were visible. our
course led us nearly parrallel with a creek of Maria's river
which takes it's rise in these high plains at the place we passed
them; at noon we struck this creek about 6 ms. from its
junction with Maria's river where we found some cottonwood
timber; here we halted to dine and graize our horses.[23] the
bed of this creek is about 25 yds. wide at this place but is nearly
dry at present, the water being confined to little pools in the
deeper parts of it's bed. from hence downwards there is a
considerable quantity of timber in it's bottom. we passed
immence herds of buffaloe on our way in short for about 12
miles it appeared as one herd only the whole plains and vally
of this creek being covered with them; saw a number of
wolves of both speceis, also Antelopes and some horses. after
dinner we proceeded about 5 miles across the plain to Maria's
river where we arrived at 6 P. M. we killed a couple of
buffaloe in the bottom of this river and encamped on it's west
side in a grove of cottonwood some miles above the entrance
of the creek. being now convinced that we were above the
point to which I had formerly ascended this river and f[e]aring
that a fork of this stream might fall in on the North
side between this place and the point to which I had ascended
it, I directed Drewyer who was with me on my former excurtion,
and Joseph Fields to decend the river early in the morning
to the place from whence I had returned, and examine
whether any stream fell inn or not. I keep a strict lookout
every night, I take my tour of watch with the men.

Courses and distances of July 18th 1806.

       

N. 25. W.	7. Ms.	to the source of Buffaloe Creek passing the dividing ridge between the waters of Maria's and rose [Tansy or Teton] river at 6. ms. praries more hilly than yesterday. many prickly pears now in blume
N. 15. W.	12. Ms.	down buffaloe Creek to the place at which we dined. here timber commences on this stream. 25 yds. wide no running water.
North	5 Ms.	to Maria's River 130 yds. wide 3 feet deep encamped on it's South side.
Ms.	24

Saturday July 19th. 1806.

Drewyer and J. Fields set out early this morning in conformity
to my instructions last evening. they returned at 1/2
after 12 OCk. and informed me that they had proceeded down
the river to the place from which I had returned on the [blank
space in MS.] of June last and that it was 6 miles distant.
they passed the entrance of buffaloe Creek at 2 ms. the course
of the river from hence downwards as far as they were is N.
80. E. they killed 8 deer and two Antelopes on their way;
most of the deer were large fat mule bucks. having completed
my observation of the sun's meridian Altitude we set
out, ascended the river hills having passed the river and proceeded
through the open plains up the N. side of the river
20 miles and encamped. at 15 miles we passed a large creek
on N. side a little above it's entrance; there is but little running
water in this creek at present, it's bed is about 30 yds. wide
and appears to come from the broken Mountains. so called
from their raggid and irregular shape there are three of them
extending from east to West almost unconnected, the center
mountain terminates in a conic spire and is that which I have
called the tower mountain[24] they are destitute of timber. from
the entrance of this creek they bore N. 10°. W. the river
bottoms are usually about 1/2 a mile wide and possess a considerable
quantity of timber entirely cottonwood; the underbrush
is honeysuckle rose bushes the narrow leafed willow and
the bush which bears the acid red berry called by the french
engages grease de buff. (buffaloe grease) just as we halted to
encamp R. Fields killed a mule doe. the plains are beautifull
and level but the soil is but thin. in many parts of the plains

there are great quantities of prickly pears. saw some herds
of buffaloe today but not in such quantities as yesterday, also
antelopes, wolves, gees, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens crows
larks sparrows &c. the Curlooe has disappeared.

On the South side of Maria's river 2ms. above the entrance of Buffaloe

   

Creek	Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉'s L. L. with Octant by the back observatn	59°. 35′.
	Latitude deduced from this observation.	[blank space in MS.]

Courses and distances July 19th. 1806.

   

S 80. W.	2O. Ms. up	Maria's river to the place of our encampment on it's N. side. passed a large creek on South side with some timber in it's vally at 8ms. also another large creek on N. side at 15 ms. this last is 30 yds. wide but little water at present.[25] the bluffs of the river and creeks are steep and principally formed of earth, though there are sometimes thin stratas of freestone intermixed near the top of the bluffs.
Ms.	2O

Sunday July 20th. 1806.

We set [out] at sunrise and proceed[ed] through the open
plain as yesterday up the North side of the river. the plains
are more broken than they were yesterday and have become
more inferior in point of soil; a great quanty of small gravel
is every where distributed over the surface of the earth which
renders travling extreemly painfull to our bearfoot horses.
the soil is generally a white or whiteish blue clay, this where it
has been trodden by the buffaloe when wet has now become
as firm as a brickbat and stands in an inumerable little points
quite as formidable to our horses feet as the gravel. the mineral
salts common to the plains of the missouri has been more
abundant today than usual. the bluffs of the river are about

200 feet high, steep irregular and formed of earth which readily
desolves with water, slips and precipitates itself into the river
as before mentioned frequently of the bluffs of the Missouri
below which they resemble in every particular, differing essencially
from those of the Missouri above the entrance of this
river, they being composed of firm red or yellow clay which
dose not yield readily to the rains and a large quantity of rock.
the soil of the river bottom is fertile and well timbered, I saw
some trees today which would make small canoes. the tibmer
is generally low. the underbrush the same as before mentioned.
we have seen fewer buffaloe today than usual, though
more Elk and not less wolves and Antelopes also some mule
deer; this speceis of deer seems most prevalent in this quarter.
saw some gees ducks and other birds common to the country.
there is much appearance of beaver on this river, but not any
of otter. from the apparent decent of the country to the
North and above the broken mountains I am induced to beleive
that the South branch of the Suskashawan receives a part
of it's waters from the plain even to the borders of this river
and from the brakes [breaks] visible in the plains in a no[r]thern
direction think that a branch of that river decending from the
rocky mountains passes at no great distance from Maria's river
and to the N. E. of the broken mountains.[26] the day has
proved excessively warm and we lay by four hours during the
heat of it; we traveled 28 miles and encamped as usual in the
river bottom on it's N. side. there is scarcely any water at
present in the plains and what there is, lies in small pools and
is so strongly impregnated with the mineral salts that it is
unfit for any purpose except the uce of the buffaloe. these
animals appear to prefer this water to that of the river. the
wild liquorice and sunflower are very abundant in the plains
and river bottoms, the latter is now in full blume; the silk
grass and sand rush are also common to the bottom lands.
the musquetoes have not been troublesome to us since we left
the whitebear islands.

Courses and distances July 20th. 1806.

 

S. 80°. W.

28 ms.

with the river in it's course upwards to our encampment of this evening on it's N. side, river 120 yds. wide and deep, water appears to be but little diminis[h]ed, somewhat more transparent. passed a creek on S. side at 6 ms. also another 22 ms. on the N. side this last has no water some little timber, bed 15yds. wide. the general course of this river is very streight, and it meanders through a vally of about 1/2 a mile in width from side to side.

Monday July 21st. 1806.

We set out at sunrise and proceeded a short distance up the
North side of the river; we found the ravines which made in
on this side were so steep and numerous that we passed the
river in doing which the pack horse which carried my instruments
missed the ford and wet the instruments. this accident
detained us about half an ho[u]r. I took the Instruments
out wiped them and dryed their cases, they sustained no material
injury. we continued on the S. side of the river about
3 miles when we again passed over to the N. side and took
our course through the plains at some distance from the river.
we saw a large herd of Elk this morning. the buffaloe still
become more scarce, at 2 P. M. we struck a northern branch
of Maria's river about 30 yds.. wide at the distance of about 8
miles from it's entrance. this stream is closely confined between
clifts of freestone rocks the bottom narrow below us
and above the rocks confine it on each side; some little timber
below but not any above; the water of this stream is
nearly clear. from the appearance of this rock and the apparent
hight of the bed of the streem I am induced to beleive
that there are falls in these rivers somewhere about their junction.
being convinced that this stream came from the mountains
I determined to pursue it as it will lead me to the most
no[r]thern point to which the waters of Maria's river extend
which I now fear will not be as far north as I wished and expected.[27]

after dinner we set out up the North branch keeping
on it's S. side; we pursued it untill dark and not finding any
timber halted and made a fire of the dung of the buffaloe. we
lay on the south side in a narrow bottom under a Clift. Our
provision is nearly out, we wounded a buffaloe this evening
but could not get him.

Courses and distances July 21st. 1806.

       

S. 80°. W.	15 ms.	with the river upward. it forks at the extremity of this course and the main or Southern branch bears S. 75 W. about 30 ms. to the mountains
N. 40° W.	6 M.	up the North branch. 30 yd. wide confined closly between clifts of rocks, shallow rapid and not navigable
N. 25°. W.	7 M.	still with the N. fork upwards. we struck the river at 2 miles from the commencement of this course, passed it and continued on it's South side. hills broken. land poor.
Miles	28

Tuesday July 22ed. 1806.

We set out very early this morning as usual and proceeded
up the river. for the first seven miles of our travel this morning
the country was broken the land poor and intermixed with
a greater quantity of grave[l] than usual; the ravines were
steep and numerous and our horses feet have become extreemly
soar in traveling over the gravel we therefore traveled
but slow. we met with a doe Elk which we wounded but
did not get her. the river is confined closely between clifts
of perpendicular rocks in most parts. after the distance of
seven miles the country became more level les gravly and
some bottoms to the river but not a particle of timber nor
underbrush of any discription is to be seen, we continued
up the river on it's South side for 17 miles when we halted to
graize our horses and eat; there being no wood we were compelled
to make our fire with the buffaloe dung which I found

answered the purpose very well. we cooked and eat all the
meat we had except a small peice of buffaloe meat which was
a little tainted. after dinner we passed the river and took our
course through a level and beautifull plain on the N. side.
the country has now become level, the river bottoms wide and
the adjoining plains but little elivated above them; the banks
of the river are not usually more than from 3 to four feet yet
it dose not appear ever to overflow them. we found no timber
untill we had traveled 12 miles further when we arrived at a
clump of large cottonwood trees in a beautifull and extensive
bottom of the river about 10 miles below the foot of the rocky
Mountains where this river enters them; as I could see from
hence very distinctly where the river entered the mountains
and the bearing of this point being S of West I thought it
unnecessary to proceed further and therefore encamped resolving
to rest ourselves and horses a couple of days at this place
and take the necessary observations.[28] this plain on which we
are is very high; the rocky mountains to the S. W. of us appear
but low from their base up yet are partially covered with
snow nearly to their bases. there is no timber on those mountains
within our view; they are very irregular and broken in
their form and seem to be composed principally of clay with
but little rock or stone. the river appears to possess at least
double the vollume of water which it had where we first arrived
on it below; this no doubt proceeds from the avapporation
caused by the sun and air and the absorbing of the earth in
it's passage through these open plains. The course of the
mountains still continues from S. E. to N. W. the front
rang[e] appears to terminate abrubtly about 35 ms. to the
N. W. of us. I believe that the waters of the Suskashawan
apporoach the borders of this river very nearly. I now have
lost all hope of the waters of this river ever extending to N.
Latitude 50°. though I still hope and think it more than probable
that both white earth river and milk river extend as far
north as latd. 50°. we have seen but few buffaloe today no deer
and very few Antelopes; gam[e] of every discription is extreemly
wild which induces me to beleive that the Indians are
now, or have been lately in this neighbourhood. we wounded
a buffaloe this evening but our horses were so much fatiegued
that we were unable to pursue it with success.

Courses and distances July 22ed. 1806.

       

N. 30°. W.	7 ms.	with the course of the river upwards. river closely confined between low but steep and rocky Clifts. water transp [ar] ent.
S. 80°. W.	10 ms.	through the plains, the river making a considerable bend to the wright or N. W.
S. 75° W.	11. ms.	through the plains on the N. side of the river which here made a considerable bend to the left or South. we passed the river to it's N. side at one mile from the commencement of this course and again recrossed it at the extremity of the course and encamped on it's S. side.
Ms	28

Wednesday July 23rd. 1806.

I dispatched Drewyer an[d] Joseph fields this morning to
hunt. I directed Drewyer who went up the river to observe
it's bearings and the point at which it entered the mountains,
this he did and on his return I observed the point at which
the river entered to bear S. 50° W. distant about ten miles the
river making a considerable bend to the West just above us.
both these hunters returned unsuccessful and reported that
there was no game nor the appearance of any in this quarter.
we now rendered the grease from our tainted meat and made
some mush of cows with a part of it, reserving as much meal
of cows and grease as would afford us one more meal tomorrow.
Drewyer informed us that there was an Indian camp of eleven
leather lodges which appeared to have been abandoned about
10 days, the poles only of the lodges remained, we are confident
that these are the Minnetares of fort de prarie and suspect
that they are probably at this time somewhere on the main

branch of Maria's river on the borders of the buffaloe, under
this impression I shall not strike that river on my return untill
about the mouth of the North branch. near this place I observe
a number of the whistleing squirrel of the speceis common
to the plains and country watered by the Columbia river,
this is the first instance in which I have found this squirrel in
the plains of the Missouri. the Cottonwood of this place is
also of the speceis common to the Columbia. we have a
delightfull pasture for our horses where we are.

     

Observed Meridian altd. of ☉'s L. L. with
Octant by the back observation—	62°. 00′—″
Latitude deduced from this observation—	[blank space in MS.]

Observed Equal Altittudes of the sun with Sexta [n]t.

       

	h	m	s
A. M.	7.	40.	57	P. M.	4.	32.	40	Altd. of ☉
	".	42.	30		".	33.	13	56°. 8′ 45″
	".	43.	5		".	34.	43

The clouds obscured the moon and put an end to further observation.

the ro[c]k which makes its appearance on this part of the
river is of a white colour fine grit and makes excelle[n]t whetstones;
it lies in horizontal stratas and makes it's appearance
in the bluffs of the river near their base. we indeavoured to
take some fish but took only one smal trout. Musquetoes
uncommonly large and reather troublesome.

Thursday July 24th. 1806.

At 8 A. M. the sun made it's appearance for a few minutes
and I took it's altitude but it shortly after clouded up again
and continued to rain the ballance of the day I was therefore
unable to complete the observations I wished to take at this
place. I determined to remain another day in the hope of
it's being fair. we have still a little bread of cows remaining
of which we made a kettle of mush which together with a few
pigeons that we were fortunate enough to kill served us with
food for this day. I sent the hunters out but they shortly

returned without having killed anything and declared that it
was useless to hunt within 6 or 8 miles of this place that there
was no appearance of game within that distance. the air has
become extreemly cold which in addition to the wind and rain
renders our situation extreemly unpleasant. several wolves
visited our camp today, I fired on and wounded one of them
very badly. the small speceis of wolf barks like a dog, they
frequently salute us with this note as we pass through the
plains.

Friday July 25th. 1806.

The weather still continues cold cloudy and rainy, the wind
also has blown all day with more than usual violence from the
N. W. this morning we eat the last of our birds and cows,
I therefore directed Drewyer and J. Fields to take a couple
of the horses and proceed to the S. E. as far as the main branch
of Maria's river which I expected was at no great distance and
indeavour to kill some meat; they set out immediately and
I remained in camp with R. Fields to avail myself of every
opportunity to make my observations should any offer, but it
continued to rain and I did not see the sun through the whole
course of the day R. Fields and myself killed nine pige[ons]
which lit in the trees near our camp on these we dined. late
in the evening Drewyer and J. Fields returned the former had
killed a fine buck on which we now fared sumptuously. they
informed me that it was about 10 miles to the main branch of
Maria's River, that the vally formed by the river in that quarter
was wide extensive and level with a considerable quantity
of timber; here they found some wintering camps of the
natives and a great number of others of a more recent date or
that had from appearance been evacuated about 6 weeks; we
consider ourselves extreemly fortunate in not having met with
these people. I determined that if tomorrow continued cloudy
to set out as I now begin to be apprehensive that I shall not
reach the United States within this season unless I make every
exertion in my power which I shall certainly not omit when
once I leave this place which I shall do with much reluctance
without having obtained the necessary data to establish it's

longitude as if the fates were against me my chronometer
from some unknown cause stoped today, when I set her to
going she went as usual.

Saturday July 26th. 1806.

The mor[n]ing was cloudy and continued to rain as usual,
tho' the cloud seemed somewhat thiner I therefore posponed
seting out untill 9 A. M. in the hope that it would clear off
but finding the contrary result I had the horses caught and we
set out biding a lasting adieu to this place which I now call
camp disappointment. I took my rout through the open plains
S. E. 5 ms. passing a small creek at 2 ms. from the mountains
when I changed my direction to S. 75 E. for 7 ms. further and
struck a principal branch of Maria's river 65 yds. wide, not very
deep, I passed this stream to it's south side and continued
down it 2 ms. on the last mentioned course when another
branch of nearly the same dignity formed a junction with it,
coming from the S. W. this last is shallow and rappid; has
the appearance of overflowing it's banks frequently and discharging
vast torrants of water at certain seasons of the year.[29]
the beds of both these streams are pebbly particularly the S.
branch. the water of the N. branch is very terbid while that
of the S. branch is nearly clear notwithstanding the late rains.
I passed the S. branch just above it's junction and continued
down the river which runs a little to the N. of E. 1 ms. and
halted to dine and graize our horses, here I found some
Indian lodges which appeared to have been inhabited last winter
in a large and fertile bottom well stocked with cottonwood
timber. the rose honeysuckle and redberry bushes constitute
the undergrowth there being but little willow in this quarter
both these rivers abov their junction appeared to be well
stocked with timber or comparatively so with other parts of
this country. here it is that we find the three species of cottonwood
which I have remarked in my voyage assembled together;

that speceis common to the Columbia I have never
before seen on the waters of the Missouri, also the narrow
and broad leafed speceis. during our stay at this place R.
Fields killed a buck a part of the flesh of which we took with
us. we saw a few Antelopes some wolves and 2 of the smallest
speceis of fox of a redish brown colour with the extremity of
the tail black. it is about the size of the common domestic
cat and burrows in the plains. after dinner I continued my
rout down the river to the North of Ea[s]t about 3 Ms. when
the hills puting in close on the S. side I determined to ascend
them to the high plain which I did accordingly, keeping the
Fieldes with me; Drewyer passed the river and kept down
the vally of the river. I had intended to decend this river
with it's course to it's junction with the fork which I had
ascended and from thence have taken across the country obliquely
to rose river and decend that stream to it's confluence
with Maria's river. the country through which this portion
of Maria's river passes to the fork which I ascended appears
much more broken than that above and between this and the
mountains. I had scarcely ascended the hills before I discovered
to my left at the distance of a mile an assemblage of
about 30 horses, I halted and used my spye glass by the help
of which I discovered several indians on the top of an eminence
just above them who appeared to be looking down towards the
river I presumed at Drewyer. about half the horses were saddled.
this was a very unpleasant sight, however I resolved
to make the best of our situation and to approach them in a
friendly manner. I directed J. Fields to display the flag which
I had brought for that purpose and advanced slowly toward
them, about this time they discovered us and appeared to
run about in a very confused manner as if much allarmed,
their attention had been previously so fixed on Drewyer that
they did not discover us untill we had began to advance upon
them, some of them decended the hill on which they were
and drove their horses within shot of it's summit and again
returned to the hight as if to wate our arrival or to defend
themselves. I calculated on their number being nearly or
quite equal to that of their horses, that our runing would
invite pursuit as it would convince them that we were their
enimies and our horses were so indifferent that we could not
hope to make our escape by flight; added to this Drewyer
was seperated from us and I feared that his not being apprized
of the indians in the event of our attempting to escape he
would most probably fall a sacrefice. under these considerations
I still advanced towards them; when we had arrived
within a quarter of a mile of them,[30] one of them mounted his
horse and rode full speed towards us, which when I discovered
I halted and alighted from my horse; he came within a hundred
paces halted looked at us and turned his horse about and
returned as briskly to his party as he had advanced; while he
halted near us I held out my hand and becconed to him to
approach but he paid no attention to my overtures. on his
return to his party they all decended the hill and mounted
their horses and advanced towards us leaving their horses behind
them, we also advanced to meet them. I counted eight
of them but still supposed that there were others concealed as
there were several other horses saddled. I told the two men
with me that I apprehended that these were the Minnetares
of Fort de Prarie and from their known character I expected
that we were to have some difficulty with them; that if they
thought themselves sufficiently strong I was convinced they
would attempt to rob us in which case be their numbers what
they would I should resist to the last extremity prefering
death to that of being deprived of my papers instruments and
gun and desired that they would form the same resolution and
be allert and on their guard. when we arrived within a hundred
yards of each other the Indians except one halted I
directed the two men with me to do the same and advanced
singly to meet the indian with whom I shook hands and
passed on to those in his rear, as he did also to the two men
in my rear; we now all assembled and alighted from our
horses; the Indians soon asked to smoke with us, but I told
them that the man whom they had seen pass down the river
had my pipe and we could not smoke untill he joined us. I
requested as they had seen which way he went that they would
one of them go with one of my men in surch of him, this they
readily concented to and a young man set out with R. Fields
in surch of Drewyer. I now asked them by sighns if they
were the Minnetares of the North which they answered in the
affermative; I asked if there was any cheif among them and
they pointed out 3 I did not believe them however I thought
it best to please them and gave to one a medal to a second a
flag and to the third a handkerchief, with which they appeared
well satisfyed. they appeared much agitated with our first
interview from which they had scarcely yet recovered, in fact
I beleive they were more allarmed at this accedental interview
than we were. from no more of them appearing I now concluded
they were only eight in number and became much
better satisfyed with our situation as I was convinced that we
could mannage that number should they attempt any hostile
measures. as it was growing late in the evening I proposed
that we should remove to the nearest part of the river and encamp
together, I told them that I was glad to see them and had
a great deel to say to them. we mounted our horses and
rode towards the river which was at but a short distance, on
our way we were joined by Drewyer Fields and the indian.
we decended a very steep bluff about 250 feet high to the
river where there was a small bottom of nearly 1/2 a mile in
length and about 250 yards wide in the widest part, the river
washed the bluffs both above and below us and through it's
course in this part is very deep; the bluffs are so steep that
there are but few places where they could be ascended, and
are broken in several places by deep nitches which extend back
from the river several hundred yards, their bluffs being so
steep that it is impossible to ascend them; in this bottom there
stand t[h]ree solitary trees near one of which the indians formed
a large simicircular camp of dressed buffaloe skins and invited
us to partake of their shelter which Drewyer and myself
accepted and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front of the
she[l]ter. with the assistance of Drewyer I had much conversation
with these people in the course of the evening. I
learned from them that they were a part of a large band which
lay encamped at present near the foot of the rocky mountains
on the main branch of Maria's river one 1/2 days march from
our present encampment; that there was a whiteman with their
band; that there was another large band of their nation hunting
buffaloe near the broken mountains and were on there way
to the mouth of Maria's river where they would probably be
in the course of a few days. they also informed us that from
hence to the establishment where they trade on the Suskasawan
river is only 6 days easy march or such as they usually
travel with their women and childred[n] which may be estimated
at about 150 ms. that from these traders they obtain
arm[s] amunition sperituous liquor blankets &c. in exchange
for wolves and some beaver skins. I told these people that
I had come a great way from the East up the large river which
runs towards the rising sun, that I had been to the great
waters where the sun sets and had seen a great many nations
all of whom I had invited to come and trade with me on the
rivers on this side of the mountains, that I had found most
of them at war with their neighbours and had succeeded in
restoring peace among them, that I was now on my way home
and had left my party at the falls of the missouri with orders
to decend that river to the entrance of Maria's river and there
wait my arrival and that I had come in surch of them in order
to prevail on them to be at peace with their neighbours particularly
those on the West side of the mountains and to engage
them to come and trade with me when the establishment
is made at the entrance of this river to all which they readily
gave their assent and declared it to be their wish to be at peace
with the Tushepahs whom they said had killed a number of
their relations lately and pointed to several of those present
who had cut their hair[31] as an evidince of the truth of what
they had asserted. I found them extreemly fond of smoking
and plyed them with the pipe untill late at night. I told
them that if they intended to do as I wished them they would
send some of their young men to their band with an invitation
to their chiefs and warriors to bring the whiteman with them
and come down and council with me at the entrance of Maria's
river and that the ballance of them would accompany me to
that place, where I was anxious now to meet my men as I had
been absent from them some time and knew that they would
be uneasy untill they saw me. that if they would go with me
I would give them 10 horses and some tobacco. to this; proposition
they made no reply, I took the first watch, tonight
and set up untill half after" eleven; the indians by this time
were all asleep, I roused up R. Fields and laid down myself;
I directed Fields to watch the movements of the indians and
if any of them left the camp to awake us all as I apprehended
they would attampt to s[t]eal our horses. this being done I
feel into a profound sleep and did not wake untill the noise
of the men and indians awoke me a little after light in the
morning.

July 27th. 1806. Sunday.

This morning at daylight the indians got up and crouded
around the fire, J. Fields who was on post had carelessly laid
his gun down behi[n]d him near where his brother was sleeping,
one of the indians the fellow to whom I had given the
medal last evening sliped behind him and took his gun and
that of his brother unperceived by him, at the same instant
two others advanced and seized the guns of Drewyer and myself,
J. Fields seeing this turned about to look for his gun
and saw the fellow just runing off with her and his brother's
he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and pursued
the indian with him whom they overtook at the distance of
50 or 60 paces from the camp s[e]ized their guns and rested
them from him and R. Fields as he seized his gun stabed the
indian to the heart with his knife the fellow ran about 15
steps and fell dead; of this I did not know untill afterwards,[32]

having recovered their guns they ran back instantly to the
camp; Drewyer who was awake saw the indian take hold of
his gun and instantly jumped up and s[e]ized her and rested
her from him but the indian still retained his pouch, his
jumping up and crying damn you let go my gun awakened
me I jumped up and asked what was the matter which I
quickly learned when I saw drewyer in a scuffle with the indian
for his gun. I reached to seize my gun but found her gone,
I then drew a pistol from my holster and terning myself about
saw the indian making off with my gun I ran at him with my
pistol and bid him lay down my gun which he was in the act
of doing when the Fieldses returned and drew up their guns
to shoot him which I forbid as he did not appear to be
about to make any resistance or commit any offensive act,
he droped the gun and walked slowly off, I picked her up
instantly, Drewyer having about this time recovered his gun
and pouch asked me if he might not kill the fellow which I
also forbid as the indian did not appear to wish to kill us, as
soon as they found us all in possession of our arms they ran
and indeavored to drive off all the horses I now hollowed to
the men and told them to fire on them if they attempted to
drive off our horses, they accordingly pursued the main party
who were dr[i]ving the horses up the river and I pursued the
man who had taken my gun who with another was driving off
a part of the horses which were to the left of the camp. I
pursued them so closely that they could not take twelve of
their own horses but continued to drive one of mine with some
others; at the distance of three hundred paces they entered
one of those steep nitches in the bluff with the horses before
them being nearly out of breath I could pursue no further,
If called to them as I had done several times before that I
would shoot them if they did not give me my horse and raised
my gun, one of them jumped behind a rock and spoke to the
other who turned arround and stoped at the distance of 30
steps from me and I shot him through the belly, he fell to
his knees and on his wright elbow from which position he
partly raised himself up and fired at me, and turning himself
about crawled in behind a rock which was a few feet from him.
he overshot me, being bearheaded I felt the wind of his bullet
very distinctly.' not having my shotpouch I could not reload
my peice and as there were two of them behind good shelters
from me I did not think it prudent to rush on them with my
pistol which had I discharged I had not the means of reloading
untill I reached camp; I therefore returned leasurly towards
camp, on my way I met with Drewyer who having heared
the report of the guns had returned in surch of me and left
the Fieldes to pursue the indians, I desired him to haisten
to the camp with me and assist in catching as many of the
indian horses as were necessary and to call to the Fieldes if he
could make them hear to come back that we still had a sufficient
number of horses, this he did but they were too far to
hear him. we reached the camp and began to catch the horses
and saddle them and put on the packs, the reason I had not
my pouch with me was that I had not time to return about
50 yards to camp after geting my gun before I was obliged to
pursue the indians or suffer them to collect and drive off all
the horses. we had caught and saddled the horses and began
to arrange the packs when the Fieldses returned with four of
our horses; we left one of our horses and took four of the
best of those of the Indian's; while the men were preparing
the horses I put four sheilds and two bows and quivers of
arrows which had been left on the fire, with sundry other articles;
they left all their baggage at our mercy. they had but
2 guns and one of them they left the others were armed with
bows and arrows and eyedaggs. the gun we took with us. I
also retook the flagg but left the medal about the neck of the
dead man that they might be informed who we were. we took
some of their buffaloe meat and set out ascending the bluffs
by the same rout we had decended last evening leaving the
ballance of nine of their horses which we did not want. the
Fieldses told me that three of the indians whom they pursued
swam the river one of them on my horse. and that two others
ascended the hill and escaped from them with a part of their
horses, two I had pursued into the nitch one lay dead near the
camp and the eighth we could not account for but suppose
that he ran off early in the contest, having ascended the hill
we took our course through a beatifull level plain a little to
the S. of East, my design was to hasten to the entrance of
Maria's river as quick as possibly in the hope of meeting with
the canoes and party at that place having no doubt but that
they [the Indians] would pursue us with a large party and as
there was a band near the broken mountains or probably between
them and the mouth of that river we might expect them
to receive inteligence from us and arrive at that place nearly
as soon as we could, no time was therefore to be lost and
we pushed our horses as hard as they would bear. at 8 miles
we passed a large branch 40 yds. wide which I called battle
river.[33] at 3 P. M. we arrived at rose river about 5 miles
above where we had passed it as we went out, having traveled
by my estimate compared with our former distances and
cou[r]ses about 63 ms. here we halted an hour and a half
took some refreshment and suffered our horses to graize; the
day proved warm but the late rains had supplyed the little
reservors in the plains with water and had put them in fine
order for traveling, our whole rout so far was as level as a
bowling green with but little stone and few prickly pears.
after dinner we pursued the bottoms of rose river but finding
[it] inconvenient to pass the river so often we again ascended
the hills on the S. W. side and took the open plains; by dark
we had traveled about 17 miles further, we now halted to
rest ourselves and horses about 2 hours, we killed a buffaloe
cow and took a small quantity of the meat. afte refreshing
ourselves we again set out by moonlight and traveled leasurely,
heavy thunderclouds lowered arround us on every quarter but
that from which the moon gave us light. we continued to pass
immence herds of buffaloe all night as we had done in the
latter part of the day. we traveled untill 2 OCk in the morning
having come by my estimate after dark about 20 ms. we
now turned out our horses and laid ourselves down to rest in
the plain very much fatiegued as may be readily conceived.[34]
my indian horse carried me very well in short much better
than my own would have done and leaves me with but little
reason to complain of the robery.

July 28th. 1806. Monday.

The morning proved fair, I slept sound but fortunately
awoke as day appeared, I awaked the men and directed the
horses to be saddled, I was so soar from my ride yesterday
that I could scarcely stand, and the men complained of being
in a similar situation however I encouraged them by telling
them that our own lives as well as those of our friends and
fellow travellers depended on our exertions at this moment;
they were allert soon prepared the horses and we again resumed
our march; the men proposed to pass the missouri at the grog
spring where rose river approaches it so nearly and pass down
on the S. W. side, to this I objected as it would delay us almost
all day to reach the point[35] by this circuetous rout and
would give the enemy time to surprise and cut off the party
at the point if they had arrived there, I told them that we
owed much to the safety of our friends and that we must wrisk
our lives on this occasion, that I should proceed immediately
to the point and if the party had not arrived that I would raft
the missouri a small distance above, hide our baggage and
march on foot up the river through the timber untill I met
the canoes or joined them at the falls; I now told them that
it was my determination that if we were attacked in the plains
on our way to the point that the bridles of the horses should
be tied together and we would stand and defend them, or sell
our lives as dear as we could, we had proceeded about 12
miles on an East course when we found ourselves near the
missouri; we heard a report which we took to be that of a
gun but were not certain; still continuing down the N. E.
bank of the missouri about 8 miles further, being then within
five miles of the grog spring we heared the report of several

rifles very distinctly on the river to our right, we quickly repared
to this joyfull sound and on arriving at the bank of the
river had the unspeakable satisfaction to see our canoes coming
down. we hurried down from the bluff on which we were and
joined them striped our horses and gave them a final discharge
imbarking without loss of time with our baggage. I now
learned that they had brought all things safe having sustaned
no loss nor met with any accident of importance. Wiser had
cut his leg badly with a knife and was unable in consequence
to work we decended the river opposite to our principal
cash which we proceeded to open after reconnoitering the adjacent
country. we found that the cash had caved in and most
of the articles burried therin were injured; I sustained the loss
of two very large bear skins which I much regret; most of
the fur and baggage belonging to the men were injured. the
gunpowder corn flour poark and salt had sustained but little
injury the parched meal was spoiled or nearly so. having no
time to air these things which they much wanted we droped
down to the point to take in the several articles which had
been buried at that place in several small cashes; these we
found in good order, and recovered every article except 3 traps.
belonging to Drewyer which could not be found, here as
good fortune would have it Sergt Gass[36] and Willard who
brought the horses from the falls joined us at 1 P. M. I had
ordered them to bring down the horses to this place in order
to assist them in collecting meat which I had direceted them to
kill and dry here for our voyage, presuming that they would
have arrived with the perogue and canoes at this place several
days before my return. having now nothing to detain us we
passed over immediately to the island in the entrance of
Maria's river to launch the red perogue, but found her so
much decayed that it was impossible with the means we had
to repare her and therefore mearly took the nails and other
ironworks about her which might be of service to us and left
her. we now reimbarked on board the white perog[u]e and
five small canoes and decended the river about 15 m3 and encamped
on the S. W. side near a few cottonwood trees, one
of them being of the narrow leafed speceis and was the first of
that kind which we had remarked on our passage up the river.
we encamped late but having little meat I sent out a couple
of hunters who soon returned with a sufficient quantity of the
flesh of a fat cow. there are immence quantities of buffaloe
and Elk about the junction of the Missouri and Maria's rivers.
during the time we halted at the entrance of Maria's river we
experienced a very heavy shower of rain and hail attended with
violent thunder and lightning.

Tuesday July 29th. 1806.

Shortly after dark last evening a violent storm came on
from N. W. attended with rain hail Thunder and lightning
which continued the greater part of the night. no[t] having
the means of making a shelter I lay in the water all night.
the rain continued with but little intermission all day. I intend
halting as soon as the weather proves fair in order to dry
our baggage which much wants it. I placed the two Fieldses
and Colter and Collins in the two smallest canoes with orders
to hunt, and kill meat for the party and obtain as many Elk-skins
as are necessary to cover our canoes and furnish us with
shelters from the rain. we set out early and the currant being
strong we proceeded with great rapidity. at 11 A. M. we
passed that very interesting part of the Missouri where the
natural walls appear, particularly discribed in my outward
bound journey. we continued our rout untill late in the evening
and encamped on the N. E. side of the river at the same
place we had encamped on the 29th. of May 1805. on our
way today we killed 9 bighorns of which I preserved the skins
and skeletons of 2 females and one male; the flesh of this
aninmal is extreemly delicate tender and well flavored; they
are now in fine order. their flesh both in colour and flavor
much resembles mutton though it is not so strong as our

mutton. the eye is large and prominant, the puple of a pale
sea green the iris of a light yellowish brown colour. these
animals abound in this quarter keeping themselves principally
confined to the steep clifts and bluffs of the river. we saw
immence hirds of buffaloe in the high plains today on either
hand of the river. saw but few Elk. the brown Curloo has
left the plains I presume it has raised it's young and retired
to some other climate and country. as I have been very particular
in my discription of the country as I ascended this
river I presume it is unnecesssesary here to add any-thing
further on that subject. the river is now nearly as high as it
has been this season and is so thick with mud and sand that
it is with difficulty I can drink it. every little rivulet now
discharges a torrant of water bringing down imme[n]ce boddies
of mud sand and filth from the plains and broken bluffs.

Wednesday July 30th. 1806.

The rain still continued this morning it was therefore unnecessary
to remain as we could not dry our baggage I
consequently set out early as usual and pursued my rout
downwards. the currant being strong and the men anxious
to get on they plyed their oars faithfully and we went at the
rate of about seven miles an hour. we halted several times
in the course of the day to kill some bighorns being anxious
to procure a few more skins and skeletons of this animal; I
was fortunate enough to procure one other male and female
for this purpose which I had prepared accordingly. seven
others were killed by the party also 2 buffaloe [one Elk] 2
beaver with & a female brown bear with tallons 6-1/4 inches
in length. I preserved the skin of this bear also with the
tallons; it was not large and in but low order. we arrived
this evening at an island about 2 ms. above Goodriches Island
and encamped on it's N. E. side. the rain continued with
but little intermission all day; the air is cold and extreemly
disagreeable. nothing extraordinary happened today.

Thursday July 31st. 1806.

The rain still continuing I set out early and proceeded on
as fast as possible. at 9 A. M. we fell in with a large herd of
Elk of which we killed 15 and took their skins. the bottoms
in the latter part of the day became wider better timbered and
abound in game. the party killed 14 deer in the course of
the day without attempting to hunt but little for them. we
also killed 2 bighorns and 1 beaver; saw but few buffaloe.
the river is still rising and excessively muddy more so I think
than I ever saw it. we experienced some very heavy showers
of rain today. we have been passing high pine hills all day.
late in the evening we came too on the N. E. side of the river
and took she[l]ter in some indian lodges built of sticks, about
8 ms. below the entrance of North mountain creek. these
lodges appeared to have been built in the course of the last
winter. these lodges with the addition of some Elk skins
afforded us a good shelter from the rain which continued to
fall powerfully all night. I think it probable that the minnetares
of Fort de Prarie visit this part of the river; we meet
with their old lodges in every bottom.

Friday August 1st. 1806.

The rain still continuing I set out early as usual and proceeded
on at a good rate. at 9. A. M. we saw a large brown
bear swiming from an island to the main shore we pursued him
and as he landed Drewyer and myself shot and killed him;
we took him on board the perogue and continued our rout,
at 11. A. M. we passed the entrance of Mussel shell river. at
1 in the evening we arrived at a bottom on S. W. side where
there were several spacious Indian lodges built of sticks and
an excellent landing. as the rain still continued with but little
intermission and appearances seemed unfavorable to it's becomeing
fair shortly, I determined to halt at this place at least
for this evening and indeavour to dry my skins of the bighorn
which had every appearance of spoiling, an event which I would
not should happen on any consideration as we have now passed
the country in which they are found and I therefore could not

supply the deficiency were I to loose these I have. I halted
at this place being about 15 ms. below Missel shell river, had
fires built in the lodges and my skins exposed to dry. shortly
after we landed the rain ceased tho' it still continued cloudy all
the evening. a white bear came within 50 paces of our camp
before we perceived it; it stood erect on it's hinder feet and
looked at us with much apparent unconsern, we seized our
guns which are always by us and several of us fired at it and
killed it. it was a female in fine order, we fleesed it and extracted
several gallons of oil. this speceis of bear are nearly
as poor at this season of the year as the common black bear
nor are they ever as fat as the black bear is found in winter;
as they feed principally on flesh, like the wolf, they are most
fatt when they can procure a sufficiency of food without rispect
to the season of the year. the oil of this bear is much harder
than that of the black bear being nearly as much so as the
lard of a hog. the flesh is by no means as agreeable as that
of the black bear, or Yahkah or partycoloured bear of the West
side of the rocky mountains, on our way to-day we killed a
buck Elk in fine order the skins and a part of the flesh of
which we preserved. after encamping this evening the hunters
killed 4 deer and a beaver. The Elk are now in fine order
particularly the males. their horns have obtained their full
growth but have not yet shed the velvet or skin which covers
them. the does are found in large herds with their young and
a few young bucks with them. the old bucks yet herd together
in parties of two to 7 or 8.

Saturday August 2nd 1806.

The morning proved fair and I determined to remain all
day and dry the baggage and give the men an opportunity
to dry and air their skins and furr. had the powder parched
meal and every article which wanted drying exposed to the
sun. the day proved warm fair and favourable for our purpose.
I permitted the Fieldses to go on a few miles to hunt.
by evening we had dryed our baggage and repacked it in
readiness to load and set out early in the morning. the river

fell 18 inches since yesterday evening. the hunters killed
several deer in the course of the day. nothing remarkable
took place today. we are all extreemly anxious to reach the
entrance of the Yellowstone river where we expect to join
Capt. Clark and party.

Sunday August 3rd. 1806.

I arrose early this morning and had the perogue and canoes
loaded and set out at half after 6 A. M. we soon passed the
canoe of Colter and Collins who were on shore hunting, the
men hailed them but received no answer we proceeded, and
shortly after overtook J. and R. Fields who had killed 25 deer
since they left us yesterday; deer are very abundant in the
timbered bottoms of the river and extreemly gentle. we did
not halt today to cook and dine as usual having directed that
in future the party should cook as much meat in the evening
after encamping as would be sufficient to serve them the next
day; by this means we forward our journey at least 12 or 15
miles Pr. day. we saw but few buffaloe in the course of this
day, tho' a great number of Elk, deer, wolves, some bear,
beaver, geese a few ducks, the party coloured co[r]vus [magpie],
one Callamet Eagle, a number of bald Eagles, red headed
woodpeckers &c. we encamped this evening on N. E. side
of the river 2 ms. above our encampment of the 12th. of May
1805. soon after we encamp[ed] Drewyer killed a fat doe.
the Fieldses arrived at dark with the flesh of two fine bucks,
besides which they had killed two does since we passed them
making in all 29 deer since yesterday morning. Collins and
Colter did not overtake us this evening.

Monday August 4th. 1806.

Set out at 4 A. M. this morning. permited Willard and
Sergt. Ordway to exchange with the Fieldses and take their
small canoe to hunt today. at 1/2 after eleven O'Ck. passed the
entrance of big dry river; found the water in this river about
60 yds. wide tho' shallow. it runs with a boald even current.
at 3 P. M. we arrived at the entrance of Milk river where we

halted a few minutes. this stream is full at present and it's
water is much the colour of that of the Missouri; it affords as
much water at present as Maria's river and I have no doubt
extends itself to a considerable distance North. during our
halt we killed a very large rattlesnake of the speceis common
to our country. it had 176 scutæ on the abdomen and 25 on
the tail, it's length 5 feet, the scutæ on the tail folly formed.
after passing this river we saw several large herds of buffaloe
and Elk we killed one of each of these animals and took as
much of the flesh as we wished. we encamped this evening
two miles below the gulph on the N. E. side of the river.
Tonight for the first time this season I heard the small whippoorwill
or goatsucker of the Missouri cry. Colter and Collins
have not yet overtaken us. Ordway and Willard delayed so
much time in hunting today that they did not overtake us
untill about midnight. they killed one bear and 2 deer. in
passing a bend just below the gulph it being dark they were
drawn by the currant in among a parsel of sawyers, under one
of which the canoe was driven and throwed Willard who was
steering overboard; he caught the sawyer and held by it;
Ordway with the canoe drifted down about half a mile among
the sawyers under a falling bank, the canoe struck frequently
but did not overset; he at length gained the shore and returned
by land to learn the fate of Willard whom he found
was yet on the sawyer; it was impossible for him to take the
canoe to his relief. Willard at length tied a couple of sticks
together which had lodged against the sawyers on which he
was and set himself adrift among the sawyers which he fortunately
escaped and was taken up about a mile below by Ordway
with the canoe; they sustained no loss on this occasion. it
was fortunate for Willard that he could swim tolerably well.

Tuesday August 5th. 1806.

Colter and Collins not having arrived induced me to remain
this morning for them. the hunters killed four deer this morning
near our encampment. I remained untill noon when I

again reimbarked and set out concluding that as Colter and
Collins had not arrived by that time that they had passed us
after dark the night of the 3rd. inst. as Sergt. Ordway informed
me he should have done last evening had not the centinel
hailed him. we continued our rout untill late in the evening
when I came too and encamped on the South side about 10
miles below little dry river. on our way we killed a fat cow
and took as much of the flesh as was necessary for us. The
Fieldses killed 2 large bear this evening one of them measured
nine feet from the extremity of the nose to that of his tail, this
is the largest bear except one that I have seen. we saw several
bear today as we passed but did not kill any of them. we also
saw on our way immence herds of buffaloe & Elk, many deer
Antelopes, wolves, geese Eagles &c. but few ducks or prarie
hens. the geese cannot fly at present; I saw a solitary Pillacon
[pelican] the other day in the same situation, this happens
from their sheding or casting the f[e]athers of the wings at this
season.

Wednesday August 6th. 1806.

A little after dark last evening a violent storm arrose to the
N. E. and shortly after came on attended with violent Thunder
lightning and some hail; the rain fell in a mere torrant and the
wind blew so violently that it was with difficulty I could have
the small canoes unloaded before they filled with water; they
sustained no injury. our situation was open and exposed to
the storm. in attending to the canoes I got wet to the skin
and having no shelter on land I betook myself to the orning
of the perogue which I had, formed of Elkskin, here I obtained
a few hours of broken rest; the wind and rain continued
almost all night and the air became very cold. we set out early
this morning and decended the river about 10 miles below
Porcupine river when the wind became so violent that I laid
by untill 4 P. M. the wind then abaiting in some measure we
again resumed our voyage, and decended the river about 5 miles
below our encampment of the 1st. of May 1805 where we halted
for the night on the S. W. side of the river. after halting we

killed three fat cows and a buck. we had previously killed
today 4 deer a buck Elk and a fat cow. in short game is so
abundant and gentle that we kill it when we please. the
Feildses went on ahead this evening and we did not overtake
them. we saw several bear in the course of the day.

Thursday August 7th. 1806.

It began to rain about midnight and continued with but little
intermission until 10 A. M. today. the air was cold and
extreemly unpleasant. we set out early resolving if possible
to reach the Yelowstone river today which was at the distance
of 83 ms. from our encampment of the last evening; the currant
favoured our progress being more rapid than yesterday, the
men plyed their oars faithfully and we went at a good rate.
at 8 A. M. we passed the entrance of Marthy's river which
has changed it's entrance since we passed it last year, falling
in at preasent about a quarter of a mile lower down. at or just
below the entrance of this river we meet with the first appearance
of Coal birnt hills and pumicestone, these appearances
seem to be coextensive. here it is also that we find the first
Elm and dwarf cedar on the bluffs, the ash first appears in the
instance of one solletary tree at the Ash rapid, about the Elk
rapid and from thence down we occasionally meet with it scattered
through the bottoms but it is generally small. from
Marthy's river to Milk river on the N. E. side there is a most
beautifull level plain country; the soil is much more fertile
here than above. we overtook the Fieldses at noon. they
had killed 2 bear and seen 6 others, we saw and fired on two
from our perogue but killed neither of them. these bear resort
the river where they lie in wate at the crossing places of
the game for the Elk and weak cattle; when they procure a
subject of either they lie by the carcase and keep the wolves
off untill they devour it. the bear appear to be very abundant
on this part of the river. we saw a number of buffaloe Elk
&c. as we passed but did not detain to kill any of them. we

also saw an unusual flight of white gulls about the size of a
pigeon with the top of their heads black.[37] at 4 P. M. we
arrived at the entrance of the Yellowstone river. I landed at
the point and found that Capt. Clark had been encamped at this
place and from appearances had left it about 7 or 8 days.
I found a paper on a pole at the point which mearly contained
my name in the hand wrighting of Capt. C. we also found the
remnant of a note which had been attatched to a peace of
Elk'shorns in the camp; from this fragment I learned that
game was scarce at the point and musquetoes troublesome
which were the reasons given for his going on; I also learnt
that he intended halting a few miles below where he intended
waiting my arrival.[38] I now wrote a note directed to Colter and
Collins provided they were behind, ordering them to come on
without loss of time; this note I wraped in leather and attatched
to the same pole which Capt. C. had planted at the point; this
being done I instantly reimbarked and decended the river in
the hope of reaching Capt. C's camp before night. about 7
miles below the point on the S. W. shore I saw some meat
that had been lately fleased and hung on a pole; I directed
Sergt. Ordway to go on shore [and] examine the place; on his
return he reported that he saw the tracks of two men which
appeared so resent that he beleived they had been there today,
the fire he found at the plce was blaizing and appeared to have
been mended up afresh or within the course of an hour past.
he found at this place a part of a Chinnook hat which my men
recognized as the hat of Gibson; from these circumstances we
concluded that Capt. C's camp could not be distant and pursued
our rout untill dark with the hope of reaching his camp in
this however we were disappointed and night coming on compelled
us to encamp on the N. E. shore in the next bottom
above our encampment of the 23rd. and 24th. of April 1805. as
we came too a herd of buffaloe assembled on the shore of
which we killed a fat cow.

Friday August 8th. 1806.

Beleiving from the recent appearances about the fire which
we past last evening that Capt. Clark could be at no great distance
below I set out early; the wind heard [hard] from the
N. E. but by the force of the oars and currant we traveled at
a good rate untill 10 A. M. by which time we reached the
center of the beaver bends about 8 ms. by water and 3 by land
above the entrance of White earth river.[39] not finding Capt.
Clark I knew not what calculation to make with rispect to his
halting and therefore determined to proceed as tho' he was not
before me and leave the rest to the chapter of accedents. at
this place I found a good beach for the purpose of drawing out
the perogue and one of the canoes which wanted corking and
reparing. the men with me have not had leasure since we left
the West side of the Rocky mountains to dress any skins or
make themselves cloaths and most of them are therefore
extreemly bare. I therefore determined to halt at this place
untill the perog[u]e and canoe could be repared and the men
dress skins and make themselves the necessary cloathing. we
encamped on the N. E. side of the river; we found the Musquetoes
extreemly troublesome but in this rispect there is but
little choise of camps from hence down to St. Louis, from this
place to the little Missouri there is an abundance of game I
shall therefore when I leave this place travel at my leasure and
avail myself of every opportunity to collect and dry meat untill
I provide a sufficient quantity for our voyage not knowing what
provision Capt. C. has made in this rispect. I formed a camp
unloaded the canoes and perogue, had the latter and one of the
canoes drawn out to dry, fleased what meat we had collected
and hung it on poles in the sun, after which the men busied
themselves in dressing skins and making themselves cloaths.
Drewyer killed 2. Elk and a deer this evening, the air is
cold yet the Musquetoes continue to be troublesome.[40]

Saturday August 9th. 1806.

The day proved fair and favourable for our purposes, the
men were all engaged dressing skins and making themselves
cloathes except R. & J. Fields whom I sent this morning
over the river with orders to proceed to the entrance of the
White earth river in surch of Capt. C. and to hunt and
kill Elk or buffaloe should they find any convenient to the
river, in the evening these men returned and informed me
that they saw no appearance of Capt. Clark or party, they
found no game nor was there a buffaloe to be seen in the plains
as far as the eye could reach. nothing remarkable took place
in the course of the day. Colter and Collins have not yet
overtaken us I fear some missfortune has happened them
for their previous fidelity and orderly deportment induces me
to beleive that they would not thus intentionally delay, the
Perogue is not yet sufficiently dry for reparing. we have no
pitch and will therefore be compelled to use coal and tallow.

Sunday August 10th. 1806.

The morning was somewhat cloudy I therefore apprehended
rain however it shortly after became fair. I hastened the
repairs which were necessary to the perogue and canoe which
were compleated by 2 P. M. those not engaged about this
business employed themselves as yesterday, at 4 in the evening
it clouded up and began to rain which puting a stop to the
opperation of skindressing we had nothing further to detain us,
I therefore directed the vessels to be loaded and at 5 P. M.
got under way the wind has blown very hard all day but did
not prove so much so this evening as absolutely to detain us.
we decended this evening as low nearly as the entrance of
white-Earth river and encamped on the S.W. side, the musquetoes
more than usually troublesome this evening.

Monday August 11th. 1806.

We set out very early this morning, it being my wish to
arrive at the birnt hills by noon in order to take the latitude
of that place as it is the most northern point of the Missouri,

I enformed the party of ray design and requested that they
would exert themselves to reach the place in time as it would
save us the delay of nearly one day; being as anxious to get
forward as I was they plyed their oars faithfully and we proceeded
rapidly. I had instructed the small [c]anoes that if
they saw any game on the river to halt and kill it and follow
on; however we saw but little game untill about 9 A.M. when
we came up with a buffaloe swiming the river which I shot
and killed; leaving the small canoes to dress it and bring on
the meat I proceeded, we had gone but little way before I
saw a very large grizzly bear and put too in order to kill it,
but it took wind of us and ran off. the small canoes overtook
us and informed that the flesh of the buffaloe was unfit for
uce and that they had therefore left it. half after n A.M. we
saw a large herd of Elk on the N. E. shore and I directed the
men in the small canoes to halt and kill some of them and
continued on in the perogue to the birnt hills; when I arrived
here it was about 20 minutes after noon and of course the observation
for the ☉'s meridian Altitude was lost. jus[t] opposite
to the birnt hills there happened to be a herd of Elk on a
thick willow bar and finding that my observation was lost for
the present I determined to land and kill some of them
accordingly we put too and I went out with Cruzatte only.
we fired on the Elk I killed one and he wounded another, we
reloaded our guns and took different routs through the thick
willows in pursuit of the Elk; I was in the act of firing on the
Elk a second time when a ball struck my left thye about an
inch below my hip joint, missing the bone it passed through
the left thye and cut the thickness of the bullet across the
hinder part of the right thye; the stroke was very severe; I
instantly supposed that Cruzatte had shot me in mistake for an
Elk as I was dressed in brown leather and he cannot see very
well; under this impression I called out to him damn you, you
have shot me, and looked towards the place from whence the
ball had come, seeing nothing I called Cruzatte several times
as loud as I could but received no answer; I was now preswaded
that it was an Indian that had shot me as the report of
the gun did not appear to be more than 40 paces from me and
Cruzatte appeared to be out of hearing of me; in this situation
not knowing how many indians there might be concealed in
the bushes I thought best to make good my retreat to the
perogue, calling out as I ran for the first hundred paces as loud
as I could to Cruzatte to retreat that there were indians hoping
to allarm him in time to make his escape also; I still retained
the charge in my gun which I was about to discharge at
the moment the ball struck me. when I arrived in sight of
the perogue I called the men to their arms to which they flew
in an instant, I told them that I was wounded but I hoped
not mortally, by an indian I beleived and directed them to
follow me that I would return & give them battle and releive
Cruzatte if possible who I feared had fallen into their hands;
the men followed me as they were bid and I returned about
a hundred paces when my wounds became so painfull and my
thye so stiff that I could scarcely get on; in short I was compelled
to halt and ordered the men to proceed and if they found
themselves overpowered by numbers to retreat in order keeping
up a fire. I now got back to the perogue as well as I
could and prepared my self with a pistol my rifle and air-gun
being determined as a retreat was impracticable to sell my life
as deerly as possible. in this state of anxiety and suspense I
remained about 20 minutes when the party returned with
Cruzatte and reported that there were no indians nor the appearance
of any; Cruzatte seemed much allarmed and declared
if he had shot me it was not his intention, that he had shot an
Elk in the willows after he left or seperated from me. I asked
him whether he did not hear me when I called to him so frequently
which he absolutely denied. I do not beleive that the
fellow did it intentionally but after finding that he had shot me
was anxious to conceal his knowledge of having done so. the
ball had lodged in my breeches which I knew to be the ball
of the short rifles such as that he had, and there being no person
out with me but him and no indians that we could discover
I have no doubt in my own mind of his having shot me.
with the assistance of Sergt. Gass I took off my cloaths and
dressed my wounds myself as well as I could, introducing tents
of patent lint into the ball holes, the wounds blead considerably
but I was hapy to find that it had touched neither bone
nor artery. I sent the men to dress the two Elk which Cruzatte
and myself had killed which they did in a few minutes
and brought the meat to the river. the small canoes came up
shortly after with the flesh of one Elk. my wounds being so
situated that I could not without infinite pain make an observation
I determined to relinquish it and proceeded on. we
came within eight miles of our encampment of the 15th. of
April 1805 and encamped on N. E. side. as it was painfull
to me to be removed I slept on board the perogue; the pain
I experienced excited a high fever and I had a very uncomfortable
night. at 4 P. M. we passed an encampment which
had been evacuated this morning by Capt. Clark, here I
found a note from Capt. C. informing me that he had left a
letter for me at the entrance of the Yelow stone river, but that
Sergt. Pryor who had passed that place since he left it had taken
the letter; that Sergt. Pryor having been robed of all his horses
had decended the Yelowstone river in skin canoes and had
overtaken him at this encampment. this I fear puts an end to
our prospects of obtaining the Sioux Cheifs to accompany us
as we have not now leasure to send and engage Mr. Heney on
this service, or at least he would not have time to engage them
to go as early as it is absolutely necessary we should decend the
river.

Tuesday August 12th. 1806.

Being anxious to overtake Capt. Clark who from the appearance
of his camps could be at no great distance before me, we
set out early and proceeded with all possible expedition at 8
A. M. the bowsman informed me that there was a canoe and a
camp he beleived of whitemen on the N.E. shore. I directed
the perogue and canoes to come too at this place and found
it to be the camp of two hunters from the Illinois by name
Joseph Dickson and Forest Hancock.[41] these men informed

me that Capt. C. had passed them about noon the day before.
they also informed me that they had left the Illinois in the
summer [of] 1804 since which time they had been ascended the
Missouri, hunting and traping beaver; that they had been
robed by the indians and the former wounded last winter by
the Tetons of the birnt woods; that they had hitherto been
unsuccessfull in their voyage having as yet caught but little
beaver, but were still determined to proceed. I gave them
a short discription of the Missouri, a list of distances to the
most conspicuous streams and remarkable places on the river
above and pointed out to them the places where the beaver
most abounded. I also gave them a file and a couple of
pounds of powder with some lead. these were articles which
they assured me they were in great want of. I remained with
these men an hour and a half when I took leave of them and
proceeded. while I halted with these men Colter and Collins
who seperated from us on the 3rd i[n]st rejoined us. they were
well no accedent having happened. they informed me that after
proceeding the first day and not overtaking us that they had
concluded that we were behind and had delayed several days
in waiting for us and had thus been unable to join us untill
the present mome[n]t. my wounds felt very stiff and soar this
morning but gave me no considerable pain. there was much
less inflamation than I had reason to apprehend there would
be. I had last evening applyed a poltice of peruvian barks.
at 1 P. M. I overtook Capt. Clark and party and had the
pleasure of finding them all well. as wrighting in my present
situation is extreemly painfull to me I shall desist untill I recover
and leave to my fri[e]nd Capt. C. the continuation of
our journal. however I must notice a singular Cherry which
is found on the Missouri in the bottom lands about the beaver
bends and some little distance below the white earth river, this
production is not very abundant even in the small tract of
country to which it seems to be confined. the stem is compound
erect and subdivided or branching without any regular
order it rises to the hight of eight or ten feet seldom puting
up more than one stem from the same root not growing in
cops as the Choke Cherry dose. the bark is smooth and of
a dark brown colour. the leaf is peteolate, oval accutely
pointed at it's apex, from one and a 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches in length
and from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in width, finely or minutely serrate,
pale green and free from pubessence. the fruit is a globular
berry about the size of a buck-shot of a fine scarlet red; like
the cherries cultivated in the U' States each is supported by a
seperate celindric flexable branch peduncle which issue from
the extremities of the boughs the peduncle of this cherry swells
as it approaches the fruit being largest at the point of insertion.
the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and is now
ripe. the style and stigma are permanent. I have never seen
it in blume.[42]