University of Virginia Library

Chapter XXXI

CLARK'S EXPLORATION OF THE YELLOWSTONE

XXXI. Clark's Journal, July 3–August 12, 1806
Entry by Lewis, August 3

[Clark:]

Thursday July 3rd. 1806

WE colected our horses and after brackfast I took My
leave of Capt. Lewis and the indians and at 8 A M
Set out with [blank space in MS.][1] Men interpreter
Shabono & his wife & child (as an interpreter & interpretes[s]
for the Crow Inds. and the latter for the Shoshoni) with (50)
horses. we proceeded on through the Vally of Clarks river
on the West Side of the [river] nearly South 18 Miles and
halted on the upper side of a large Creek, haveing Crossed 8
Streams 4 of which weres Small. this vally is from 10 to 15
Ms. in width tolerably leavel and partially timberd. with long
leaf & pitch pine, some cotton wood, Birch, and sweet willow
on the borders of the streams. I observed 2 Species of Clover
in this vally one the white clover common in the Western
parts of the U. States, the other species which is much smaller
than either the red or white both it's leaf & blossom the
horses are excessively fond of this Species. after letting our
horses graze a Sufficient length of time to fill themselves, and
taking dinner of venison we again resumed our journey up the
Vally which we found more boutifully versified with small open
plains covered with a great variety of Sweet cented plants,
flowers & grass. this evening we crossed 10 Streams 8 of
which were large Creeks which comes roleing their currents
with Velocity into the river. those Creeks take their rise in

the mountains to the West which mountains is at this time
covered with Snow for about 1/5 of the way from their tops
downwards.[2] Some Snow is also to be Seen on the high points
and hollows of the Mountains to the East of us. our course
this evening was nearly South 18 Ms. makeing a total of 36
miles today. we encamped on the N. Side of a large Creek[3]
where we found tolerable food for our horses. Labeish killed
a Deer this evening. We saw great numbers of deer and 1 bear
today. I also observed the burr[ow]ing Squirel of the Species
common about the quawmarsh flatts West of the Rocky Mountains.
Musquetors very troublesom. one man Jo: Potts very
unwell this evening owing to rideing a hard trotting horse; I
give him a pill of Opiom which soon releve[d] him.

Friday July 4th. 1806

I order three hunters to Set out early this morning to hunt
& kill some meat, and by 7 A. M. we collected our horses
took brackfast and Set out proceeded on up the Vally on the
West Side of Clarks river crossing three large deep and rapid
Creeks, and two of a smaller size to a small branch in the Spurs
of the mountain and dined. the last Creek or river which we
pass'd was so deep and the water so rapid that several of the
horses were sweped down some distance and the Water run
over several others which wet several articles. after crossing
this little river, I observed in the road the tracks of two men
whome I prosume is of the Shoshone nation. our hunters
joined us with 2 deer in tolerable order. on the side of the
Hill near the place we dined saw a gange of Ibex or big horn
Animals I shot at them running and missed. This being
the day of the decleration of Independence of the United
States and a Day commonly scelebrated by my Country I had
every disposition to selebrate this day and therefore halted
early and partook of a Sumptious Dinner of a fat Saddle of
Venison and Mush of Cows (roots) after Dinner we proceeded

on about one mile to a very large Creek which we assended
some distance to find a foard to cross. in crossing this creek
several articles got wet, the water was so strong, alto' the debth
was not much above the horses belly, the water passed over
the backs and loads of the horses. those Creeks are emensely
rapid has great decnt (descent). the bottoms of the Creek as
well as the low lands on each side is thickly covered with large
stone. after passing this Creek I inclined to the left and fell
into the road on which we had passed down last fall near the
place we had dined on the 7th. of Sept. and continued on the
road passing up on the W. side of Clarks river 13 Miles to
the West fork[4] of Sd. river and Encamped on an arm of the
same I Sent out 2 men to hunt, and 3 in Serch of a foard to
pass the river. at dark they all returned and reported that
they had found a place that the river might be passed but with
some risque of the loads getting wet I order them to get up
their horses and accompany me to those places &c. our hunters
killed 4 deer to day. we made 30 Ms. to day on a course
nearly South Vally from 8 to 10 Ms. wide, contains a good
portion of Pitch pine. we passed three large deep rapid Creeks
this after noon

Satturday July 5th. 1806

I rose at day light this morning despatched Labeach after
a Buck which he killed late last evening; and I [went] with
the three men who I had Sent in serch of a ford across the
West fork of Clarks river, and examined each ford neither of
them I thought would answer to pass the fork without wetting
all the loads. near one of those places pointed out by Colter
I found a practiable foard and returned to camp, ordered every
thing packed up and after Brackfast we set out passed 5
chanels of the river which is divided by small Islands in
passing the 6th. & last chanel Colter['s] horse swam and with

some dificuelty he made the Opposite Shore, Shannon took a
different derection from Colter rained his horse up the stream
and passed over very well I derected all to follow Shannon
and pass quartering up the river which they done and passed
over tolerably well the water running over the back of the
2 smaller horses only. unfortunately my trunk & portmantue
containing Sea otter Skins flags some curosites & necessary
articles in them got wet, also an esortment of Medicine, and
my roots, about 1 mile [further] we struck the East fork
which had fallen and was not higher than when we passed it
last fall. we had not proceeded up this fork more than 1 mile
cer we struck the road by which we passed down last fall and
kept it at one mile we crossed the river at a very good foard
and continued up on the East Side to the foot of the Mountain
nearly opposite flour Cr[e]ek & halted to let our horses
graze and dry our wet articles. I saw fresh sign of 2 horses
and a fire burning on the side of the road. I prosume that
those indians are spies from the Shoshones. Shannon & Crusat
killed each a deer this morning and J. Shields killed a female
Ibex or bighorn on the side of the Mountain, this Animal was
very meager. Shannon left his tomahawk at the place he
killed his deer. I derect him to return for it and join me in
the Vally on the East side of this mountain. gave Shields
permission to proceed on over to the 1st Vally and there hunt
untill my arival this evening at that place, after drying every
article which detained us untill 1/2 past 4 P.M. we packed up
and crossed the Mountain into the vally [where] we first met
with the flatheads here I overtook Shields he had not killed
anything. I crossed the river which heads in a high peecked
mountain covered with Snow N.E. of the Vally at about 20
Miles. (See note) Shields informed me that the Flat head
indians passed up the small creek which we came down last
fall about 2 miles above our Encampment of the 4h. & 5th. of
Sept. I proceeded up this South branch 2 Miles and encamped
on the E. side of the Creek, and sent out several men to examine
the road. Shields returned at dark and informed me
that the best road turned up the hill from the creek 3 Miles
higher up, and appeared to be a plain beaten parth. as this
rout of the Oat-lash-shoots can be followed it will evidently
shorten our rout at least 2 days and as the indians informed
me last fall [it is] a much better rout than the one we came
out. at all events I am deturmined to make the attempt and
follow their trail if possible if I can prosue it my rout will be
nearer and much better than the one we came from the Shoshones,
& if I should not be able to follow their road; our
rout can't possibly be much wors. The hunters killed two
deer this evening. The after part of the day we only come 8
miles makeing a total of 20 Miles. Shannon came up about
sunset haveing found his tomahawk.

Sunday 6th. July 1806

Some frost this morning the last night was so cold that I
could not sleep. we collected our horses which were much
scattered which detained us untill 9 A.M. at which time we
set out and proceeded up the creek on which we camped 3
Miles and left the road which we came on last fall to our
right and assended a ridge with a gentle slope to the dividing
mountain[5] which Seperates the waters from (of) the Middle fork
of Clarks river from those [blank space in MS.] (of Wisdom)
and Lewis's river and passed over prosueing the rout of the
Oatlashshute band which we met last fall to the head of
(Glade Cr:) a branch of Wisdom R and down the said branch
crossing it frequently[6] on each Side of this [are] handsom
glades in which I observe great quantities of quawmash just
beginning to blume, on each side of those glades the timber is
small and a great propotion of it Killed by the fires. I observe
the appearance of old buffalow roads and some heads on
this part of the mountain. (proving that formerly Buffs. roved
there & also that this is the best route, for the Buffs. and the

Indians always have the best route & here both were joined)
The Snow appears to [be] lying in considerable masses on the
mountain from which we decended on the 4th. of Sept. last. I
observe great numbers of the whistleing squirel which burrows
their holes scattered on each side of the glades through
which we passed. Shields killed a hare of the large Mountain
Species. the after part of the day we passed on the hill Side
N of the Creek for 6 Ms. (down glade Cr) and entered an extensive
open Leavel plain in which the Indian trail scattered in
such a manner that we could not pursue it. the Indian woman
wife to Shabono informed me that she had been in this plain
frequently and knew it well that the creek which we decended
was a branch of Wisdom river and when we assended the higher
part of the plain we would discover a gap in the mountains in
our direction to the canoes, and when we arived at that gap
we would see a high point of a mountain covered with snow
in our direction to the canoes. we proceeded on 1 mile and
Crossd. a large Creek from the right which heads in a snow
Mountain and Fish Creek over which there was a road thro' a
gap.[7] we assended a small rise and beheld an open beutifull
Leavel Vally or plain of about 20 (15) Miles wide and near
60 (30) long extending N & S. in every direction around
which I could see high points of Mountains covered with snow.
I discovered one at a distance very high covered with snow
which bore S. 80°. E. The Squar pointed to the gap through
which she said we must pass which was S. 56°. E she said we
would pass the river before we reached the gap. we had not
proceeded more than 2 Miles in the last Creek before a violent
storm of wind arose accompand. with hard rain from the S W.
imediately from off the Snow Mountains this rain was cold
and lasted 1 1/2 hours. I discovd. the rain wind as it approached
and halted and formd. a solid column to protect ourselves from
the Violency of the gust. after it was over I proceeded on
aboat 5 Miles to some small dry timber on a small Creek and
encampd. made large fires and dryed our selves.[8] here I observed
some fresh Indian Signs where they had been gathering
quawmash. (This is the great plain where Shoshonees gather
quawmash & cows &c. our woman had done so. many beaver)

Courses and distance &c.

               

	Miles.
on the course which we had decended the branch of Clark's river to the first Flat heads or Oat-lash-shoot band the 4th. of Septr. 1805	3. 1/2
Thence up a jintle slope of the dividing mountain which seperates the waters of the [blank space in MS.] from those of Lewis's & Clark's rivers leaving the old rout on which we came out to the right on a course nearly S.E.	3.
Thence N. 80°. E. through a leavel piney country on the top of the mountain to a glade at the head of a branch which runs towards the Missouri	2. 1/2
Thence S. 50°. E. down the branch Crossing it frequently & through small glades on either side of the branch the glades at some places 1/2 a mile wide with several small streams falling in on either side up which there is small glades to the narrows N.E.	7.
Thence N. 68d. E. keeping down the North side of the Creek on the side of the hill, the bottoms of the creek small open and much fallen timber to an extensive bottom S. Side	4.
Thence S. 56°. E. through an open Leavle plain passing a large Creek from the right at one mile to a quawmash flatt through which a small creek runs scattered through the bottom, and encamped	6.
	Miles   26

Monday 7th.. July 1806

This morning our horses were very much scattered; I sent
out men in every direction in Serch of them they brought all
except 9 by 6 oClock and informed me that they could not
find those 9. I then ordered 6 men to take horses and go
different directions and at a greater distance those men all
returned by 10 A.M. and informed me that they had [made]

circles in every direction to 6 or 8 Miles around Camp and
could not see any signs of them. that they had reasons to
believe that the indians had stolen them in the course of the
night, and founded their reasons on the quallity of the horses,
all being the most valuable horses we had, and Several of them
so attached to horses of inferior quallity which we have
they could not be seperated from each other when driveing
with their loads on in the course of the day. I thought it
probable that they might be stolen by some skulking shoshones,
but as it was yet possible that they may have taken
our back rout or rambled to a greater distance I deturmined
to leave a small party and hunt for them to day, and proceed
on with the main party and all the baggage to the canoes, raise
them out of the water and expose them to the sun to dry by
the time this party should overtake me. I left Sergt. Ordway,
Shannon, Gibson Collins & Labeech with directions to hunt
this day for the horses without they should discover that the
Inds. had taken them into the Mountains, and prosue our trail
&c. at 1/2 past 10 A.M. I set out and proceeded on through
an open rich vally crossing four large Creeks with extensive
low and mirey bottoms, and a small river keeping the course
I had set out on S.56°.E. after crossing the river I kept up
on ihe N E. side, sometimes following an old road which frequently
disappeared, at the distance of 16 miles we arived at a
Boiling Spring Situated about 100 paces from a large Easterly
fork of the small river in a leavel open vally plain and nearly
opposit & E of the 3 forks of this little river which heads in
the Snowey Mountains to the S E. & S W of the Springs.
this Spring (15 yds.. in circums. boils up all over bottom which is
stoney) contains a very considerable quantity of water, and actually
blubbers with heat for 20 paces below where it rises.
it has every appearance of boiling, too hot for a man to endure
his hand in it 3 seconds. I directd Sergt. Pryor and John
Shields to put each a peice of meat in the water of different
Sises. the one about the size of my 3 fingers cooked dun in
25 minits the other much thicker was 32 minits before it became
sufficiently dun. this water boils up through some loose
hard gritty Stone, a little sulferish. after takeing dinner and
letting our horses graize 1 hour and a half we proceeded on
Crossed this easterly branch and up on the N. side of this
middle fork 9 miles crossed it near the head of an Easterly
branch and passed through a gap of a mountain on the Easterly
side of which we encamped near some butifull (Springs)
which fall into Willards Creek.[9] I directed that the rambling
horses should be hobbled, and the Sentinal to examine the
horses after the moon rose. emence beaver sign.

Course distance &c. July 7th.

         

		Miles
S. 56°. E.	to the boiling hot Spring 1/2 Mile Easterly of the three upper forks of wisdom river near a large creek from the East passed 4 large Creek from the snow mountains on my right and a small river at 12 miles bottoms extensive and wet	16.
S. 45°. E.	on the N. E. Side of the middle fork	5.
N. 50°. E.	to the Gap of a mountain crossing a small branch at 2 Miles from the left and Encamped	4.
		25.

This extensive vally surround[ed] with [mountains] covered
with snow is extreemly fertile covered [with] esculent plants
&c. and the creeks which pass through it contains emence
numbers of beaver &c. I now take my leave of this butifull
extensive vally which I call the hot spring Vally, and behold
one less extensive and much more rugid on Willards Creek for
near 12 Miles in length, remarkable cold night

Tuesday 8th.. July 1806

Our horses being scattered we were detained untill 8 A.M
before we set out. we proceeded on down Willards Creek on
the S.W. side about 11 miles near which the Creek passes
through the mountain we then Steared S. 20°. E. to the West
branch of Jeffersons river in Snake Indian cove[10] about 7 Miles

and halted two hours to let the horses graize. after dinner we
proceeded on down the forke which is here but small 9 Miles
to our encampment of 17 Augt. at which place we Sunk our
Canoes & buried some articles, as before mentioned the most
of the Party with me being Chewers of Tobacco become so
impatient to be chewing it that they scercely gave themselves
time to take their saddles off their horses before they were off
to the deposit. I found every article safe, except a little damp.
I gave to each man who used tobacco about two feet off a part
of a role took one third of the ballance myself and put up 2/3
in a box to send down with the most of the articles which had
been left at this place, by the canoes to Capt. Lewis, as it was
late nothing could be done with the canoes this evening. I
examined them and found them all safe except one of the
largest which had a large hole in one Side & Split in bow.
The country through which we passed to day was diversified
high dry and uneaven Stoney open plains and low bottoms
very boggy with high mountains on the tops and North sides
of which there was Snow, great quantities of the Species of
hysoop & shrubs common to the Missouri plains are scattered
in those Vallys and hill sides. The road which we have traveled
from travellers rest Creek to this place (this place is the
head of Jeffer river where we left our canoes) [is] an excellent
road.

Course Distance &c. July 8th.

           

		Miles
S. 40°. E.	down the Creek keeping on the S W. side of the Creek passing several small branches from the mountains to our right	11.
S. 20°. E.	passing through a gap at 3 miles and thro' an open plain on either side of the Gap to the West branch of Jeffersons river	7.
East	down the said branch of Jeffersons river to a high point of land and struck the road from the Canoes to the Snake indian vally on Lewisis river on which we passed last summer	4.
N. 45°. E.	down the fork to the forks of Sd river at which place we made a Deposit & left our canoes & Encamped	5.
		Miles 27.

[This] road and with only a few trees being cut out of the
way would be an excellent waggon road one Mountain of about
4 miles over excepted which would require a little digging
The distance is 164 Miles. Shields killed an Antelope.

Wednesday 9th. July 1806.

rose early had the horses brought up. after which I had
the canoes raised washed, brough[t] down and drawn up on
shore to dry and repared. Set several men to work digging
for the Tobacco Capt Lewis informed me he had buried in the
place the lodge stood when we lay here last summer, they
serched diligently without rinding anything. at 10 A M Sergt.
Ordway and party arrived with the horses we had lost. he
reported that he found those horses near the head of the Creek
on which we encamped, makeing off as fast as they could and
much scattered. nothing material took place with his party in
their absence. I had the canoes repared men & lodes appo[r]tioned
ready to embark tomorrow morning. I also formd. the
party to accomp[any] me to the river Rejhone [Rochejaune]
from applicants and apportioned what little baggage I intended
to carry as also the Spear horses. this day was windy and cold.
The Squar brought me a Plant the root of which the nativs
eat. this root resembles a carrot in form and Size and something
of its colour, being of a pailer yellow than that of our
carrot, the Stem and leaf is much like the common carrot, and
the taste not unlike, it is a native of moist land. John Shields
and Collins each killed a Deer this morning. the wind dried
our canoes very much they will be sufficiently dry by tomorrow
morning to Set out in them down the river.

Thursday 10th. July 1806

last night was very cold and this morning everything was
white with frost and the grass stiff frozend. I had some water
exposed in a bason in which the ice was 3/4 of an inch thick
this morning. I had all the Canoes put into the water and
every article which was intended to be sent down put on board,
and the horses collected and packed with what fiew articles I

intend takeing with me to the River Rochejhone, and after
brackfast we all Set out at the same time & proceeded on
Down Jeffersons river on the East Side through Sarviss (Service)
Vally[11] and rattle snake mountain and into that butifull
and extensive Vally open and fertile which we call the beaver
head Vally which is the Indian name. in their language Har-na
Hap-pap Chah,[12] from the No. of those animals in it and a pt. of
land resembling the head of one. this Vally extends from the
rattle snake Mountain down Jeffersons river as low as fraziers
Creek above the bighorn mountain and is from 12 (10) to 30
(15) Miles in width and [blank space in MS.] (about 50) miles
on a direct line in length and Jeffersons river in passing through
this Vally re[ce]ives. Mc. Neals Creek, Track Creek, Phalanthrophy
river, Wisdom river, Fields river and Fraziers Creek[13]
each throw in a considerable quantity of water and have innoumerable
beaver and otter on them; the bushes in their low
bottoms are the resort for great numbers of Deer, and [in] the
higher parts of the Vally we see Antelopes scattered feeding.
I saw also on the sides of the rock in rattle snake mountain 15
big horn animals, those animals feed on the grass which grow
on the Sides of the Mountn. and in the narrow bottoms on
the Water courses near the Steep sides of the mountains on
which they can make their escape from the pursute of wolves
Bear &c. at Meridian I halted to let the horses Graze haveing
come 15 Miles. I ordered the (canoes) to land. Sergt. Ordway
informed me that the party with him had come on very
well, and he thought the canoes could go as farst as the horses
&c. as the river now become wider and not so sholl, I deturmined
to put all the baggage &c. which I intend takeing with
me to the river Rochejhone in the canoes and proceed on
down with them myself to the 3 forks or Madisons & galletens
rivers. leaveing the horses to be taken down by Sergt. Pryor
and 6 of the men of the party to accompany me to the river
Rochejhone and directed Sergt. Pryor to proceed on moderately
and if possible encamp with us every night, after dinner had
my baggage put on board and Set out, and proceeded on
tolerable well to the head of the 3000 Mile Island on which
we had encamped on the (11th) of Augt. last.[14] the canoes passed
six of my encampments assending, opposit this island I encamped
on the East side. the Musquetors were troublesom
all day and untill one hour after Sunset when it became cool
and they disappeared. in passing down in the course of this
day we saw great numbers of beaver lying on the Shores in the
Sun. wild young Gees and ducks are common in this river.
we killed two young gees this evening. I saw several large
rattle snakes in passing the rattle Snake Mountain they were
fierce.

Friday 11th July 1806

Sent on 4 of the best hunters in 2 canoes to proceed on a
fiew miles a head and hunt untill I came up with them, after
an early brackfast I proceeded on down a very crooked chanel,
at 8 a.m I overtook one canoe with a Deer which Collins had
killed, at Meridian passed Sergt. Pryors camp near a high
point of land on the left side which the Shoshones call the
beavers head. the wind rose and blew with great violence
from the S W imediately off Some high mountains covered
with Snow. the violence of this wind retarded our progress
very much and the river being emencely crooked we had it
imediately in our face nearly every bend. at 6 P M I passed
Phalanthrophy river which I proceved was very low. the wind
Shifted about to the N E. and bley[w] very hard tho' much
wormer than the forepart of the day. at 7 P M I arrived at
the Enterance of Wisdom River and Encampd. in the Spot
we had encamped the (6th) of August last. here we found a
Bayonet which had been left & the canoe quite safe. I directed
that all the nails be taken out of this canoe and paddles to be
made of her sides &c. here I came up with Gibson & Colter
whome I had sent on a head for the purpose of hunting this
morning, they had killed a fat Buck and 5 young gees nearly

grown. Wisdom river is very high and falling. I have Seen
great Nos. of Beaver on the banks and in the water as I passed
down to day, also some Deer and great numbers [of] young
gees, Sandhill cranes &c. &c. Sgt. Pryor left a deer on the
shore

Saturday 12th. July 1806

Sergt. Pryor did not join me last night he has proceeded on
down. the beaver was flacking (flapping their tails) in the river
about us all the last night, this Morning I was detained untill
7 A M makeing Paddles and drawing the nails of the Canoe
to be left at this place and the one we had before left here.
after completing the paddles &c. and takeing some Brackfast I
set out the current I find much stronger below the forks than
above and the river tolerably streight as low as Panther Creek[15]
when it became much more crooked the Wind rose and blew
hard off the Snowey mountains to the N. W. and renderd. it
very difficuelt to keep the canoes from running against the
Shore at 2 P. M. the canoe in which I was in was driven by
a suden puff of wind under a log which projected over the
water from the bank, and the man in the Stern Howard was
caught in between the canoe and the log and a little hurt,
after disingaging ourselves from this log the canoe was driven
imediately under a drift which projected over and a little abov[e]
the Water, here the canoe was very near turning over we
with much exertion after takeing out some of the baggage
hauled her out, and proceeded on without rece[i]ving any damage.
the men in the other canoes Seeing our situation landed
and come with as much Speed as possible through the briers
and thick brush to our assistance. but from the thickness of
the brush did not get up to our assistance untill we had got
clear. at 3 P M we halted at the enterance of Fields Creek
and dined here Willard and Collins over took us with two
deer which they had killd. this morning, and by takeing a
different side of an Island from which we came, we had passed
them. after dinner I proceeded on and Encamped a little

below our encampmt of the 31st. of July last. the Musquetoes
very troublesom this evening. Some old buffalow Signs. I
killed 4 young gees and Collins killed 2 bever this evening.

Sunday 13th.. July 1806

Set out early this morning and preceded on very well to the
enterance of Madicines river at our old Encampment of the 27th.
July last at 12 [o'clock] where I found Sergt. Pryor and party
with the horses, they had arived at this place one hour before
us. his party had killed 6 deer & a white bear. I had all the
horses driven across Madicine & gallitines rivers and halted to
dine and let the horses feed imediately below the enterance of
Gallitine. had all the baggage of the land party taken out of
the canoes and after dinner the 6 canoes and the party of 10
men under the direction of Sergt. Ordway set out. previous
to their departur[e] I gave instructions how they were to
proceed &c. I also wrote to Capt Lewis by Sergt. Ordway.
My party now Consists of the following persons Viz: Sergeant
N. Pryor, Jo. Shields, G. Shannon William Bratton, Labiech,
Windsor, H. Hall, Gibson, Interpreter Shabono his wife &
child and my man york; with 49 horses and a colt. the
horses feet are very sore and Several of them can scercely
proceed on. at 5. P. M. I set out from the head of Missouri
at the 3 forks, and proceeded on nearly East 4 miles and Encamped
on the bank of Gallitines River which is a butifull
navigable Stream.[16] Saw a large Gange of Elk in the plains
and Deer in the river bottoms. I also observe beaver and
Several otter in galletines river as I passed along. Gibson
killed an otter the fur of which was much longer and whiter
than any which I had seen. Willard killed 2 deer this morning.
all the meat I had put into the canoes except a sufficiency
for supper. The country in the forks between Gallitins &
Madisens rivers is a butifull leavel plain covered with low
grass. on the lower or N E. Side of Gallitins river the
country rises gradually to the foot of a mountain which runs
nearly parrelal. those plains are indefferant or the Soil of

which is not very rich they are Stoney & contain several
stratas of white rock. the current of the river is rapid and
near the mouth contains several islands, it is navigable for
canoes. I saw several Antelope common Deer, wolves, beaver,
otter, Eagles, hawks, crows, wild gees both old and young,
does &c. &c. I observe Several leading roads which appear
to pass to a gap of the mountain in a E. N E. direction about
18 or 20 miles distant. The indian woman who has been of
great service to me as a pilot through this country recommends
a gap in the mountain more south which I shall cross.[17]

Monday 14th. July 1806

Sent Shields a head to kill a deer for our brackfast, and at
an early hour set out with the party crossed Gallitines river
which makes a considerable bend to the N. E. and proceeded
on nearly S. 78°. E through an open Leavel plain at 6 Miles
I struck the river and crossed a part of it and attempted to
proceed on through the river bottoms which was several Miles
wide at this place, I crossed several chanels of the river running
through the bottom in defferent directions. I proceeded on
about two miles crossing those defferent chanels all of which
was damed with beaver in such a manner as to render the
passage impracticable and after [being] swamped as I may say
in this bottom of beaver, I was compelled to turn short about
to the right and after some difficuelty made my way good to
an open low but firm plain which was an Island and extended
nearly the course I wished to proceed, here the squar informed
me that there was a large road passing through the
upper part of this low plain from Madicins river through the
gap which I was Stearing my course to. I proceeded up this
plain 4 miles and crossed the main chanel of the river, having
passed through a skirt of cotton timber to an open low plain
on the N E. side of the river and nooned it. the river is
much divided and on all the small streams inoumerable quantities
of beaver dams, tho' the river is yet navagable for canoes

I overtook Shields soon after I set out; he had killed a large
fat Buck. I saw Elk, deer & Antelopes, and great deel of
old signs of buffalow. their roads is in every direction. The
Indian woman informs me that a fiew years ago Buffalow was
very plenty in those plains & Vallies quit[e] as high as the
head of Jeffersons river, but fiew of them ever come into those
vallys of late years owing to the Shoshones who are fearfull of
passing in-to the plains West of the mountains and subsist on
what game they can catch in the Mountains principally and the
fish which they take in the E. fork of Lewis's river. Small
parties of Shoshones do pass over to the plains for a few days at
a time an[d] kill buffalow for their skins and dried meat, and
return imediately into the Mountains, after Dinner we proceeded
on a little to the South of East through an open leavel
plain to the three forks of the E branch of Gallitines River at
about 12 Miles, crossed the most Southerly of those forks and
struck an old buffalow road (the one our Indn. woman meant)
which I kept continuing nearly the same course up the middle
fork crossed it and camped on a small branch of the middle
fork on the N E. side at the commencement of the gap of the
mountain[18] —the road leading up this branch, several other
roads all old come in from the right & left. emence quantities
of beaver on this Fork quit[e] down, and their dams very
much impeed the navigation of it from the 3 forks down, tho
I beleive it practicable for small canoes by unloading at a fiew
of the worst of those dams. Deer are plenty Shannon Shields
and Sergt. Pryor each killed one which were very fat much more
so than they are commonly at this Season of the year. The
Main fork of Gallitins River turn South and enter the Mountains
which are yet covered with Snow. Madicens river makes
a Great bend to the East and enters the same mountain. a
leavel plain between the two rivers below the mountain.

Tuesday 15th July 1806

We collected our horses and after an early brackft. at 8 A M
set out and proceeded up the branch to the head thence over
a low gap in the mountain thence across the heads of the N E.
branch of the (i. e., the Easterly) fork of Gallitins river which
we camped near last night passing over a low dividing ridge to
the head of a water course which runs into the Rochejhone,
prosueing an old buffalow road which enlargenes by one which
joins it from the most Easterly (Northerly) branch of the East
fork of Galetine R. proceeding down the branch a little to the N.
of East keeping on the North Side of the branch to the River
rochejhone at which place I arrived at 2 P M.[19] The distance
from the three forks of the Easterly fork of Galletines river
(from whence it may be navigated down with small canoes) to
the river Rochejhone is 18 Miles on an excellent high dry
firm road with very inco[nsi]derable hills. from this river to
the nearest part of the main fork of Gallitine is 29 miles
mostly through a leavel plain, from the head of the Missouri
at the 3 forks 48 miles through a leavel plain the most of the
way as may be seen by the remarks.[20]

Course Distance & Remarks from the Three forks of Missouri to
the River Rochejhone where it enters the Rocky Mounts.

• S. 85°. E. 6 Miles through an open plain crossing a ridge to galletines
  river, it haveing made a bend to the S W. campd.
  the hill sides over which we passed contain a hard
  white rock which lies in an inclined position and
  

  ---

  263

  
  
  
  shows only in stratus. several roads leading to a
  Gap in the mountain to my left.

• S. 78°. E. 6 Miles to a part of the river which is divided by numbers
  of beaver dams on one channel of the river.
  passed through an open leavel butifull plain
  covered with low grass. river makeing a bend
  to the N.E. from the place I crossed it this
  morning. passed numbers of buffalow roads
  which do not appear to be very old leading to
  the before mentioned gap.

• S. 70°. E. 6 Miles to a plain East of the river haveing crossed several
  streams & the river. (passed out of my direction
  in the first part of this course an intolerable rout
  caused by Beaver daming the stream a muddy wet
  rout) and come into the course about one mile
  from the commencement & then passed through
  a low leavel firm plain to the river and cross it
  into a low plain.[21]

• S. 78°. E. 12 Miles to the most southerly of the three easterly branches
  of the Easterly fork of Galletines river. passed
  through an open leavel plain in which there is
  three small streams of water from the snow
  Mountains to the South. Great quantities of
  snow yet remains on the Mountains to the S.ESouth.
  S W. West, and at a distance to the
  N W. a very small quantity is also to be seen
  on a nacked mountain to the East marked my
  [name] W. C July 14th. 1806. with powder on
  a cotton tree at the river.

• N. 80°. E. 3 Miles to the enterance of a small branch which falls into
  the Middle branch of the East fork of Galletine
  River having crossed the middle branch at 2
  Miles, passed great numbers of beaver dams
  and ponds on the branch, and encamped. here
  the mountain forms a kind of half circle in which
  the three branches enter them. from which the
  mountains appear to run N W. from one extremity
  and W. from the other

• N. 45°. E. 3 Miles to the top of the mountain in a low gap passing up
  

  ---

  264

  
  
  
  the branch on which we encamped last night, on
  a well beaten buffalow road, through some thick
  under growth such as young cottonwood & thorn.
  Several beaver dams across this branch. the assent
  gradual.

• East. 3 Miles to the top of the dividing ridge between the waters
  of the Missouri from those of the river Rochejhone.
  passing down a small branch and at 2 1/2
  miles crossing a larger branch of the middle fork
  of the East fork of Galletins about 1/2 a Mile
  above the branch I came down, running to the
  right. a road coms in from the left, which passes
  through a low gap of the mtn. from the most
  easterly branch of the East fork.

• S. 45°. E. 1 Mile down a small branch crossed two runs from the left
  passing on the hill Side to the left of the branch.
  the road firm and through an open country. high
  mountains on each side partially covered with
  pine.

• N. 75°. E. 8 Miles to the River Rochejhone passing down on the
  Northerly side of the same branch across which
  there is several beaver dams. crossed three small
  streams from the left with running water one of
  which is crouded with beaver dams. a small
  stream coms in on the right at 6 Ms. struck the
  Rochejhone 1/2 a mile below the branch we came
  down & 1 1/2 Ms. below where it passes out of the
  Rocky Mountains. river 120 Yds wide bold,
  rapid and deep.

• Ms 48

in the evening after the usial delay of 3 hours to give the
horses time to feed and rest and allowing ourselves time also
to cook and eate Dinner, I proceeded on down the river on an
old buffalow road at the distance of 9 miles below the Mountains
Shield River[22] discharges itself into the Rochejhone on
it's N W. side above a high rocky Clift, this river is 35 yards
wide deep and affords a great quantity of water it heads in
those snowey Mountains to the N W with Howards Creek,[23] it

contains some Timber such as cotton & willow in it's bottoms,
and Great numbers of beaver the river also abounds in those
animals as far as I have seen. passed the creek and over a
high rocky hill and encamped in the upper part of a large
bottom. The horses feet are very sore many of them can
scercely proceed on over the Stone and gravel in every other
respect they are Sound and in good Sperits. I saw two black
bear on the side of the mountains this morning. Several gangs
of Elk from 100 to 200 in a gangue on the river, great numbers
of Antelopes, one Elk only killed to day.

The Roche passes out of a high rugid mountain covered
with snow. the bottoms are narrow within the mountains but
wider [from ½ a M. to 2 Ms.] in the Vally below, those bottoms
are subject to over flow, they contain some tall Cotton
wood, and willow rose bushes & rushes Honey suckle &c.
a Second bottom on the N E. side which rises to about 20
feet higher [than] the first [& is 1 M. wide] this bottom is
coars gravel pebils & sand with some earth on which the grass
grow very Short and at this time is quit[e] dry this 2d. bottom
over flows in high floods. on the opposit Side of the river the
plain is much higher and extendes quite to the foot of the
Mountain.[24] The Mountains to the S.S.E on the East side
of the river is rocky rugid and on them are great quantities of
Snow. a bold [snow] mountain which bears East & is imediately
at & N W of the 3 forks of the East fork of Gallitins
river may be seen, there is also a high rugid Mtn. on which is
snow bearing North 15 or 20 miles.[25] but fiew flowers to be
seen in those plains. low grass in the high plains, and the
common corse grass, rushes and a species of rye is the growth
of the low bottoms. the Mountains have some scattering pine
on them, and on the spurs and hill sides there is some scrubby
pine. I can See no timber Sufficient[ly] large for a Canoe
which will carry more than 3 men and such a one would be
too small to answer my purpose.

Wednesday 16th.. July 1806

I gave Labeech permission to proceed on early this morning
a head and kill a fat Elk or Buffalow. our horses haveing
rambled to a long distance down the river detained us much
later than common. we did not set out untill 9 A M. we
had not proceeded on far before I saw a buffalow & sent Shannon
to kill it this buffalow provd. to be a very fat Bull I
had most of the flesh brought on an[d] a part of the Skin to
make mockersons (remarkable sort of bag round foot) for Some
of our lame horses. proceeded on down the river without
finding any trees sufficiently large for a Canoe about 10 Miles
and halted having passed over to an Island on which there
was good food for our horses to let them graze & Dine. I
have not seen Labeech as yet. Saw a large gangue of about
200 Elk and nearly as many Antilope also two white or Grey
Bear in the plains, one of them I chased on horse back about
2 Miles to the rugid part of the plain where I was compelled
to give up the chase two of the horses was so lame owing to
their feet being worn quit[e] Smooth and to the quick, the hind
feet was much the worst I had Mockersons made of green
Buffalow Skin and put on their feet which seams to releve
them very much in passing over the stoney plains. after dinner
I proceeded on soon after I had set out Labeech joined
us with part of a fat Elk which he had killed. I passed over
a stoney point at which place the river runs close to the high
land on the N W. side crossed a small Creek and Encamped
on the river a little below its' Enterance. Saw emence heards
of Elk feeding on the opposit side of the river. I saw a great
number of young gees in the river. one of the men brought
me a fish of a species I am unacquainted [with]; it was 8
inches long formed like a trout. it's mouth was placed like
that of the Sturgeon a red streak passed down each side from
the gills to the tail.[26] The rocks which the high lands are faced
with and which may also be seen in perpendicular Straters in
the high plains, is a dark freestone. the greater part of this
rock is of an excellent grit for Grindstones hard and sharp. I

observe the Silkgrass sunflower & Wild indigo all in blume.
but fiew other flowers are to be seen in those plains. The
river and Creek bottoms abound in Cotton wood trees, tho'
none of them sufficiently large for canoes. and the current of
the Rochejhone is too rapid (& [we are] not willing) to depend
on skinn canoes (which are not so easy managed & we did not
know the river) no other alternetive for me but to proceed on
down untill I can find a tree Sufficiently large &c. to make a
canoe.

Courses Computed distance by Land and water Down the River Rochejhone
from the Rocky Mountain in Latd. 45°–22′–30″ North and
Longd. [blank space in MS.] W. July 15 & 16th. 1806.

                             

			Miles by Watr.
North	2	Miles on a direct course from the gap of the mountain to a fiew cotton trees under the bank and on the West or Larboard Side of the river & on a Small Chanel. I marked my name withe red paint and the day of the month & year also the distance & course of the portage on one of the Cotton trees. wide bottom on the Lard. Side, the high Slopeing Prarie on the Stard Side	3 1/2
North	1	Mile to a cluster of trees in a Gully. passed some tall timber laterly killed by fire in the low bottom the high bottom appear to have been over flown	2 1/2
N. 15°. E.	4	Miles to a deep bend of the river to the West passed two Small runs and a large Island on which I Saw Some trees nearly large enough for small canoes. main chanel on the East of the island. passed 11 Islands in this Course, the two lower of them large the others small	7
N. 30°. E.	2	Miles to the enterance of Shield River of 35 Yds. wide deep & a boald current with a great perpotion of timber on its borders. this river is from the N W. much beaver sign, a high rugid rocky hill buts the river imediately below a 268 very good buffalow road passing from the head of this river through a gap of the Mts. to the Missouri	3
N. 50°. E. [camp July 15]	3	Miles passing a high rocky hill on the Lard Side, to the enterance of a Small Creek on the Lard. Side passd. several small islands. an extensive low bottom on the Stard. Side in which there is great Nos. of Elk feeding	5
N. 80°. E. [July 16th]	9	Miles to a Bluff in a Stard. bend. the general course of the river very Streight passing Several islands, Most of them Covered with Cotton trees and willow. passed Stinking Cabin Creek 20 yards wide bold current from the South which falls in on the Stard Side. Timber up this Cree[k] as far as I could see	11
N. 10°. W.	1	Mile on the Course to a bend on the Stard Side	1
N. 50°. E.	1 1/2	Miles to a Clift of rocks in a bend to the Stard. side passing some small Islands	2
N. 10°. E.	2 1/2	Miles on the course to a Stard Bend opsd. a large island. main chanel on the Stard. side	4.
N. 46°. E.	4 1/2	Miles on the course to a Lard Bend of the river at which place there is some rocks in the middle of the river near a low Clift of rocks on the Lard. Side passing a branch at 2 Miles, and one on the Stard. side at 3 Miles, river having a Genl. bend to the S.E.	7
N. 60°. E.	4	Miles on the course to some high trees in a Std. bend. passing under a low bluff on the Lard side for 2 Ms. the high lands on the opposit side seperated from the river by a narrow low bottom passed several small islands	6 1/2
North	2 1/2	Miles on the Course to a low bluff in a Lard. bend below a great crossing place of the buffalow. passed two Brooks on the Lard. side. an extensive low bottom on the Stard. side in which I saw great numbers of Elk feeding	4
N. 40°. E.	1	Mile on the Course to the enterance of a small creek on the Lard. Side below which I encamped below a small Island in a small bottom in which there was good grass	1 1/2
Miles	38	by land    Miles by water	58

Thursday 17th July 1806

The rain of last night wet us all (having no tent & no covering
but a buffaloe skin). I had the horses all collected early and
set out, proceeded ove[r] the point of a ridge and through an
open low bottom crossed a large creek which heads in a high
Snow toped Mountain to the N W. imediately opposit to
the enterance of the creek one something larger falls in from
the high snow mountain to the S. W. & South those Creeks
I call Rivers Across[27] they contain Some timber in their
Vallys at the distance of [blank space in MS.; Biddle, 10 1/2]
Miles by water we arive at the enterance of two small rivers or
large creeks which fall in nearly opposit to each other the
one on the N E side is 30 yards wide. I call it Otter River
the other Beaver R[28] below the enterance of this Creek I
halted as usial to let the Horses graze &c. I saw a single
Pelicon which is the first which I have seen on this river.
after Dinner I proceeded on Down the Rochejhone passing
over a low ridge through a small bottom and on the side of
a Stoney hill for 2 Miles and through a Small (bottom) and
again on the Side of a high hill for 1 1/2 M. to a bottom in
which we Encamped opposit a small Island. The high lands
approach the river on either side much nearer than it does
above and their sides are partially covered with low pine &
cedar, none of which are sufficiently large for Canoes, nor have
I seen a Cotton tree in the low bottoms sufficiently large for
that purpose. Buffalow is getting much more plenty than
they were above. not so many Elk & more deer Shannon
killed one deer. I saw in one of those small bottoms which I
passed this evening an Indian fort which appears to have been

built last summer. this fort was built of logs and bark. the
logs was put up very closely (ends supporting each other) lapping
on each other about 5 feet (high) and closely chinked. around
which bark was set up on end so as to cover the Logs. the
enterance was also guarded by a Work on each side of it and
faceing the river. this work is about 50 feet Diameter &
nearly round. the Squaw informs me that when the war
parties (of Minnit Crows &c, who fight Shoshonees) find themselves
pursued they make those forts to defend themselves in
from the pursuers whose superior numbers might otherwise
over power them and cut them off without receiveing much
injurey on horsback &c.

[ILLUSTRATION]

Courses Distances Computed & Remarks 17th. July

                         

			mile by water
N. 30°. E.	I 1/2	Miles on the course to a Larboard bend under a hill, river makeing a bend to the Stard. Side in which there is 3 islands covered with timber	3
N. 65°. E.	5	Miles on the course to the Enterance of two large Creeks one on each side imediately opposit each other which I call Rivers a Cross a great preportion of timber on both of those creeks. river making two bends to the Stard. Side in this Course. High Snow Mts. W. N W, and those to the S.W is also covered with S.	9
N. 76°. E.	1 1/2	Miles to the enterance of a brook in the Lard. Bend	1 1/2
N. 85°. E.	3	Miles on the course to a Brook in a Lard. Bend passed a small Island river bending a little to the Stard. Side. Current rapid	3 1/2
S. I5°.E.	3	Miles on the course to the enterance of Thy snag'd Creek on the Stard. Side.[29] river passing under a high rocky hill from 1 to 2 Miles	5
S. 60°. E.	3	Miles on the Course to the enterance of a large creek on the Lard. Side, crooked and 30 Yds wide which I call Otter River a large creek or Small river falls in nearly opposit Beaver R. much timber on both of those streams. the water of a Milky colour. passed' islands. Saw a single pelican & a pen to catch birds	5 1/2
S. 40°. E.	3	Miles to a high point on the Lard. Side opposit a high clift in the opposit bend, the river haveing made a bend to Std. in which there is 2 large Islands	5
N. 80°. E.	4	Miles on the Course to a Clift under a high pine hill on the Lard. side passing the 272 enterance of a large Creek on the Stard. Side which I call Brattens Ck.[30] and 10 islands in this course	8
S. 60°. E.	3	Miles to the enterance of a Small Brook on the Stard. Side passing one large Island. an old indian fort of logs & bark. river passed at the foot of a high hill on the Larboard Side	4 1/2
N. 80°. E.	3	Miles to the enterance of a Small Creek on the Stard. Side, passing 2 large & 5 small Islands, the river passing under a high pine hill for 2 Miles. rocky	5
N. 60°. E.	3	Miles to a point of wood in the Lard. Bend, passed 3 islands. the bottoms are narrow and low on each side of the river, not exceeding 1/2 a mile in width. Encpd	5
Ms.	33	by Land    Ms. by water	55

Friday 18th July 1806

as we were about Setting out this morning two Buffalow Bulls
came near our Camp Several of the men shot at one of them.
their being near the river plunged in and Swam across to the
oppposit Side and there died. Shabono was thrown from his
horse to day in pursute of a Buffaloe, the ho[r]se unfortunately
steping into a Braroe hole fell and threw him over his head.
he is a good deel brused on his hip sholder & face. after
brackfast I proceeded on as usial, passd. over points of ridges
so as to cut off bends of the (river) crossed a small muddy
brook on which I found great quantities of the Purple, yellow
low & black currents ripe. they were of an excellent flavour.
I think the purple superior to any I have ever tasted. The
river here is about 200 yards wide rapid as usial and the
water gliding over corse gravel and round stones of various
sizes of an excellent grite for whetestones. the bottoms of the

river are narrow. the hills are not exceeding 200 feet in hight
the sides of them are generally rocky and composed of rocks
of the same texture of a dark colour of Grit well calculated for
grindstones &c. The high bottoms is composed of gravel
and stone like those in the chanel of the river, with a mixture
of earth of a dark brown colour The country back from the
river on each side is generally open wavering plains. Some
pine is to be seen in every direction in those plains on the
Sides of the hills &c. at 11 A.M. I observed a Smoke rise
to the S.S.E in the plains towards the termonation of the rocky
mountains in that direction (which is covered with snow) this
Smoke must be raisd. by the Crow Indians in that direction as
a Signal for us, or other bands. I think it most probable that
they have discovered our trail and takeing us to be Shoshones
&c. in Serch of them the Crow Indians (now at peace with them)
to trade as is their custom, have made this Smoke to Shew
where they are—or otherwise takeing us to be their Enemy
made this signal for other bands to be on their guard. I halted
in a bottom of fine grass to let the horses graze. Shields
killed a fat Buck on which we all Dined. after dinner and a
delay of 3 hours to allow the horses time to feed, we set out
at 4 P.M. I set out and proceeded down the river through
a butifull bottom, passing an Indian fort on the head of a
Small island near the Lard shore and Encamped on a small
Island seperated from the Lard Shore by a very narrow
Chanel.[31] Shields killed a Buffalow this evening which caused
me to halt sooner than common to save some of the flesh
which was so rank and Strong that we took but very little.
Gibson in attempting to mount his horse after Shooting a deer
this evening fell and on a Snag and sent it nearly (two) inches
into the Muskeler part of his thy. he informs me this
snag was about 1 inch in diameeter burnt at the end. this is
a very bad wound and pains him exceedingly. I dressed the
wound.

Course Distance & remarks July 18th. 1806

                   

			Ms. by water
East	3	Miles to a Stard. Bend passing at the foot of a high pine hill rocky and steep on the Lard. Side. passed several Islds	4 1/2
N. 62°. E.	4 1/2	Miles on the course to the enterance of a small creek in a Lard. Bend opposit to three Islands, passing several small islands, high lands on the Stard. Side bottoms narrow on the Lard Side. (Saw a smoke S. 30°. W. discover the Big horn mountain which is low, at S, 80°. E	7
S. 8°. E.	2 1/2	Miles on the Course to a bend on the Stard. Side passed Several Islands. river washing the base of a high ruged stoney hill on the Lard Side	4
East	3 1/2	Miles on the course to a Stard. Bend passing a high point at 2 Miles on the Lard. Side a narrow bottom on the Stard. Side. the hills are high on each Side partially covered with pine. country ruged and Stoney emence qtty of Prickley pears	6
N. 20°. E.	2	Miles on the course to a Lard Bend. river washing the base of the high land on the Starboard Side at one Mile. the bottoms on the Larboard side a quarter of a Mile wide	3 1/2
N. 72°. E.	3 1/2	Miles on the course to a Lard Bend passd. the enterance of a large dry Creek & 3 islands an old indian fort on an island close to the Lard shore. river washing the foot of the Stard Hills .	5
S. 45°. E.	6	Miles on the course to a high hill on the Stard. side at the foot of which the river passes, haveing made several Short bends in which there is several islands. the bottoms 1/2 a Mile wide on the stard Side. a good proportion of Cotton wood and willow on the borders of the river on each Side	11
S. 82°. E.	1	Mile to the head of a Small island close to the Lard Shore. river makeing a bend to the Stard. under the high lands which is ruged and stoney encamped on the Island Gibson Snaged his thye	2
Ms.	26	by land    by water Ms.	43

Saturday 19th.. July 1806.

I rose early and dressed Gibsons wound. he slept but very
little last night and complains of great pain in his Kne and hip
as well as his thy. there being no timber on this part of the
Rochejhone sufficiently large for a Canoe and time is pracious
as it is our wish to get to the U States this Season, conclude
to take Gibson in a litter if he is not able to ride on down the
river untill I can find a tree Sufficiently large for my purpose.
I had the strongest and jentlest Horse Saddled and placed Skins
& blankets in such a manner that when he was put on the horse
he felt himself in as easy a position as when lying. this was a
fortunate circumstance as he could go much more at his ease
than in a litter. passed Rose bud river on S E, Side (So called
by Indians; i. e. Itch-Kep-pe (Rose) ar-ja (rivr) about 40 yds.
saw many rs. bds., a beautiful [stream].) I proceeded on about
9 miles, and halted to let the horses graze and let Gibson rest.
his leg become So numed. from remaining in one position, as to
render [it] extreemly painfull to him. I derected Shields to
keep through the thick timber and examine for a tree sufficiently
large & sound to make a canoe, and also hunt for some
Wild Ginger for a Poltice for Gibsons wound. he joined me
at dinner with 2 fat Bucks but found neither tree or Ginger.
he informed me that 2 white bear chased him on horseback,
each of which he Shot from his horse &c. Currents are ripe
and abundant, i, e, the Yellow, black & purple sp[e]cies. we
passed over two high points of Land from which I had a View
of the rocky Mounts. to the W. & S. S. E. all covered with
Snow. I also saw a low mountain in an Easterly direction.
the high lands is partially covered with pine and form purpendicular

clifts on either side. af[t]er dinner I proceeded on
the high lands become lower on either side and those of the
Stard. Side form Bluffs of a darkish yellow earth; the bottom
widens to Several Ms. on the Stard. Side. the timber which [is]
cotton wood principally scattered on the borders of the river is
larger than above. I have seen Some trees which would make
very small canoes. Gibsons thy became So painfull that he
could not set on the horse after rideing about 2 hours and a
half. I directed Sergt. Pryor and one man to continue with
him under the Shade of a tree for an hour and then proceed
on to the place I should encamp which would be in the first
good (timber for canoes) below. (It may be proper to observe
that the emence Sworms of Grass hoppers[32] have destroyed every
sprig of Grass for maney miles on this side of the river, and
appear to be progressing upwards. about 4 Miles below the
place I left Sergt. Pryor with Gibson found some large timber
near which the grass was tolerably good I Encamped[33] under
a thick grove of those trees which was not sufficiently large for
my purpose, tho' two of them would mak[e] small Canoes. I
took Shields and proceeded on through a large timbered bottom
imediately below in Serch of better trees for Canoes, found
several about the same size with those at my camp. at dark I
returned to Camp Sergt. Pryor had arived with gibson. after
my arival at this place the hunters killed seven Elk, four Deer,
and I wounded a Buffalow very badly near the Camp imediately
after I arived. in the forepart of the day the hunters killed
two deer an Antelope & Shot two Bear. Shabono informed
me that he Saw an Indian on the high lands on the opposit
side of the river, in the time I was absent in the woods. I saw
a Smoke in the same direction with that which I had seen
the 7th. inst. it appeared to be in the Mountains

Course Distance Computed & remarks July 19th..

               

			Ms. by water
N. 72°. E.	2	Ms. on the course to a bend on the Larbd. Side at the lower point of a low clift of rocks of 1/4 of a mile in extent. a large creek entering the bottom on the Stard Side nearly opposit which I call [blank space in MS.] [Inds.. call rose bud River] the river haveing made a bend to the Stard. Side to the high land above the Creek an extensive timbered bottom on the Stard Side	3
East	9	Ms. on the course to a high point in a Stard. Bend passed an old indian fort on an Island at 2 Miles, the river passing under some high lands on the Lard Side from 3 to 5 miles, and under high land from 6 Miles on the Stard. Side. the river haveing made two genl. bends to the Stard. side passed several [islands] of various sizes and forms river about 200 yds wide	19
North	1 1/2	Ms. to a Lard Bend passing an island. high clifts on the Starboard Side	1 1/2
N. 60°. E.	1 1/2	Ml. on a direct course to a point of a high clift in the Stard. Bend, river making a round bend to the Lard side & then to the clift above the point 1 M1	3
N. 50°. E.	1 1/2	Ms. on a direct course to a point of the high clift on the Stard. Side passing a Lard. Bend in which there is an island high clifts continue on the Stard. Side	3
East	3	Ms. on the course to a clump of large Cotton wood trees in a Lard Bend passing several Islands, river much divided and crooked. high Yellow Bluff on the Stard. side under which part of the river passes. The bottoms wide and extensive on the Lard. Side. Encamped	5 1/2
miles	18	by land    by water   miles—	35

Sunday 20th July 1806

I directed Sergt. Pryor and Shields each of them good judges
of timber to proceed on down the river six or 8 miles and examine
the bottoms if any larger trees than those near which we
are encamped can be found and return before twelve oClock.
they set out at daylight. I also sent Labech Shabono & hall
to [bring the] skin & some of the flesh of the Elk Labeech
had killed last evening they returned with one skin the
wolves haveing eaten the most of the other four Elk. I also
sent two men in serch of wood soutable for ax handles they
found some choke cherry which is the best wood which can be
precured in this country. Saw a Bear on an Island opposit
and Several Elk. Sergt. Pryor and Shields returned at half
past 11 A M. and informed me that they had preceded down
the the timbered bottoms of the river for about 12 miles without
finding a tree better than those near my Camp. I deturmined
to have two canoes made out of the largest of those
trees and lash them together which will cause them to be Study
and fully sufficient to take my small party & Self with what
little baggage we have down this river. had handles put in
the 3 axes and after Sharpening them with a file fell[ed] the
two trees which I intended for the two canoes, those trees
appeared tolerably Sound and will make canoes of 28 feet
in length and about 16 or 18 inches deep and from 16 to 24
inches wide. the men with the three axes set in and worked
untill dark. Sergt. Pryor dressed Some Skins to make him
Clothes. Gibsons wound looks very well. I dressed it. The
horses being fatigued and their feet very Sore, I shall let them
rest a fiew days. during which time the party intended for to
take them by land to the Mandans will dress their skins and
make themselves clothes to ware, as they are nearly naked.
Shields killed a Deer & Buffalow & Shannon a faun and a
Buffalow & York an Elk one of the buffalow was good meat.
I had the best of him brought in and cut thin and Spread out
to dry.

Monday 21st of July 1806

This morning I was informed that Half of our horses were
absent. Sent out Shannon Bratten and Shabono to hunt them.
Shabono went up the river Shanon down and Bratten in the
bottom near Camp, Shabono and Bratten returned at 10 A M
and informed me that they saw no Signs of the horses. Shannon
proceeded on down the river about 14 Miles and did not
return untill late in the evening, he was equally unsuckcessfull.
Shannon informed me that he Saw a remarkable large Lodge
about 12 miles below, covered with bushes and the top Deckorated
with Skins &c. and had the appearance of haveing been
built about 2 years. I sent out two men on hors back to kill
a fat cow which they did and returned in 3 hours the men
work very diligently on the canoes one of them nearly
finished ready to put in the water. Gibsons wound is beginning
to heal. I am in great hope that it will get well in time
for him to accompany Sgt. Pryor with the horses to the Mandans.
This evening late a very black cloud from the S.E.
accompanied with Thunder and lightning with hard winds
which Shifted about and was worm and disagreeable. I am
apprehensive that the Indians have Stolen our horses, and
probably those who had made the Smoke a new days passed
towards the S.W. I determined to have the ballance of the
horses guarded and for that purpose sent out 3 men. on their
approach near the horses were so alarmed that they ran away
and entered the woods and the men returned. a Great number
of Geese which raise their young on this river passed down
frequently Since my arival at this place. we appear to be in
the beginning of the buffalow Country. the plains are butifull
and leavel but the soil is but thin Stoney and in maney parts
of the plains & bottoms there are great quantity of prickly
pears. Saw Several herds of buffalow Since I arived at this
Camp also antelops, wolves, pigions, Dovs, Hawks, ravins,
crows, larks, Sparrows, Eagles & bank martins &c. &c. The
wolves which are the constant attendants of the Buffalow are
in great numbers on the Scents of those large gangues which
are to be Seen in every direction in those praries

Tuesday 22nd. of July 1806

The wind continued to blow very hard from the N. E. and
a little before day light was moderately cool. I sent Sergt. Pryor
and Shabono in Serch of the horses with directions to proceed
up the river as far as the 1st. narrows and examine particularly
for their tracks, they returned at 3 P M and informed me that
they had proceeded up the distance I derected them to go and
could see neither horses nor tracks; the Plains imediately out
from Camp is so dry and hard that the track of a horse cannot
be seen without close examination I therefore derected
Sergt. Pryor Shannon Shabono & Bratten to incircle the camp
at some distance around and find the tracks of the horses and
prosuse them. they serched for tracks all the evening without
finding which course the horses had taken, the plains being
so remarkably hard and dry as to render it impossible to See
a track of a horse passing through the hard parts of them. I
begin to Suspect that they are taken by the Indians and taken
over the hard plains to prevent our following them. my suspicions
is grounded on the improbibility of the horses leaveing
the grass and rushes of the river bottoms of which they are
very fond, and taking imediately out into the open dry plains
where the grass is but Short and dry. if they had continued
in the bottoms either up or down, their tracks could be followed
very well. I directed Labeech who understands tra[c]king
very well to set out early in the morning and find what
rout the horses had taken if possible.

Wednesday 23rd.. July 1806.

last night the wolves or dogs came into our camp and eat
the most of our dryed meat which was on a scaffold Labeech
went out early agreeable to my directions of last evening.
Sergt. Pryor and Windsor also went out. Sgt. pryor found an
Indian Mockerson and a Small piece of a roab, the mockerson
worn out on the bottom & yet wet, and have every appearance of
haveing been worn but a fiew hours before. those Indian Signs
is conclusive with me that they have taken the 24 horses which
we lost on the night of the 20th. instant, and that those who

were about last night were in serch of the ballance of our horses
which they could not find as they had fortunately got into a
small Prarie Serounded with thick timber in the bottom.
Labeech returned haveing taken a great circle and informed
me that he saw the tracks of the horses makeing off into the
open plains and were by the tracks going very fast. The Indians
who took the horses bent their course reather down the
river. the men finished both canoes by 12 oClock to day,
and I sent them to make Oars & get poles after which I sent
Shields and Labeech to kill a fat Buffalow out of a gangue
which has been in a fiew miles of us all day. I gave Sergt. Pryor
his instructions and a letter to Mr. Haney and directed that
he G. Shannon & Windser take the remaining horses to the
Mandans, where he is to enquire for Mr. H. Heney if at the
establishments on the Assinniboin river to take 12 or 14 horses
and proceed on to that place and deliver Mr. Heney the letter
which is with a view to engage Mr Heney to provale on some
of the best informed and most influential Chiefs of the different
bands of Sieoux to accompany us to the Seat of our Government
with a view to let them see our population and resourses
&c. which I believe is the Surest garentee of Savage fidelity to
any nation that of a Governmt. possessing the power of punishing
promptly every aggression. Sergt. Pryor is directed to
leave the ballance of the horses with the grand Chief of the
Mandans untill our arrival at his village, also to keep a journal
of his rout courses distances water courses soil productions, &
animals to be particularly noted. Shields and Labeech killed
three buffalow two of them very fat I had as much of the
meat saved as we could conveniently carry. in the evening
had the two canoes put into the water and lashed together ores
and every thing fixed ready to set out early in the morning,
at which time I have derected Sergt. Pryor to Set out with the
horses and proceed on to the enterance of the big horn river
(which we suppose to be at no great distance) at which place the
canoes will meat him and set him across the Rochejhone below
the enterance of that river.

[Letter to Hugh Henney, referred to above by Clark.][34]

Camp on the River Rochejhone East of the Rocky
Mountains July 20.th 1806

a copy

Sir In the winter of 1805, you were so obliging as to
express a disposition to assist us in the execution of any measure
relative to the Savages with whome you were conversant,
or that you would lend your aid in furthering the friendly
views of our government in relation to the Same. no object
as we then informed you did at that time present itself to our
view, which we conceived worthy of your attention. at present
we have a commission to charge you with, which if executed,
we have no doubt will tend to advance your private
interest, while it will also promote those of the U. States in
relation to the intercourse of her citizens with the Indian
nations in the interior of North America. It is that of provailing
on some of the most influensial Chiefs of those bands
of Sioux who usially resort the borders of the Missouri to visit
the Seat of our Government, and to accompany them there
yourself with us. The Tetons of the burnt woods, Teton
Ockandandas, and other bands of Tetons, Cisitons, and yanktons
of the Plains are the Objects of our attention on this
occasion, Particularly the Bands of Tetons; those untill some
effectual measures be taken to render them pacific, will always
prove a serious source of inconveniance to the free navigation
of the Missouri, or at least to it's upper branches, from whence
the richest portion of it's fur trade is to be derived.

The ardent wish of our government has ever been to conciliate
the esteem and secure the friendship of all the Savage
nations within their territory by the exercise of every consistent
and pacific measure in her power, applying those of coercion
only in the last resort; certain we are that her disposition
towards the native inhabitants of her newly acquired Territory
of Louisiana is not less friendly; but we are also positive that
she will not long suffer her citizens to be deprived of the free
navigation of the Missouri by a fiew comparitively feeble bands

of Savages who may be so illy advised as to refuse her proffered
friendship and continue their depridation on her citizens who
may in future assend or decend that river.

We believe that the sureest guarantee of savage fidility to
any nation is a thorough conviction on their minds that their
government possesses the power of punishing promptly every
act of aggression committed on their part against the person
or property of their citizens; to produce this conviction without
the use of violence, is the wish of our government; and
to effect it, we cannot devise a more expedient method than
that of takeing some of the best informed and most influential
Chiefs with us to the U. States, where they will have an ample
view of our population and resources, become convinced themselves,
and on their return convince their nations of the futility
of an attempt to oppose the Will of our government, particularly
when they shall find, that their acquiescence will be productive
of greater advantages to their nation than their most
sanguine hopes could lead them to expect from oppersition.

We have before mentioned to you the intention of our government
to form tradeing establishments on the Missouri with
a view to secure the attatchments of the nativs and emeliorate
their sufferings by furnishing them with such articles as are
necessary for their comfort on the most moderate terms in
exchange for their peltries and furs. forming those establishments
will most probably be delayed untill our return for the
want of sufficient information relitive to the state of the country.
We have recommended a position in the neighbourhood of the
enterance of the Chyenne river as an eligible situation for one
of those establishments principally with a view to the accomodation
of the Sioux. an Indian Agent will of course be necessary
at that post, your long acquaintance and influence with
those people necessary places your protentions to that appointment
on the fairest Ground, and should you think proper to
under take the commission now proposed, it will still further
advance those pretentions. if you wish such an office you
may rest assured of our wormest intersessions in your behalf
with our government. The emoluments attatched to the office
of an Indian Agent in our service is 75$ pr. month and six

rations pr. day, which last at so distant a post might safely be
calculated at 20 cts. pr. ration or one Dollar & 20 cents pr. day
in addition to the Monthly pay makeing a total of 111$
pr. month.

Under this view of the Subject should you think proper to
engage in the business proposed, we promise you in behalf of
our governmt. one dollar pr. day while you are employed in that
service whether you succeed or not, recconing from the date
at which you receive this letter. all necessary expenses incedent
to traveling, hireing guides, expresses &c. which may
accur in the course of your transactions will also be allowed.
In order the better to ensure you success, you are at liberty to
take with you on this occasion any amount in merchandize not
exceeding 200$ which you may conceive necessary by way of
presents to those people. as horses will also be necessary for
your journey you are at liberty to take any three of those which
the men who hand you this, may bring with them to the establishments
on the Assinniboin river or to the Mandans. we
have directed Sergt Pryor to take 12 horses to the Establishments
on the Assinniboin for the several purposes of exchangeing
for a fiew articles which are necessary to the comfort of our
party, to furnish you with as maney as will be necessary for
your journey, and to pay the amount of the merchindize which
we have instructed you to take on that occasion. should the
Merchents not be disposed to barter for the horses and prefur
Bills on our Government or furs at the Mandans, either of the
latter will be delivered them imediately on our arival. in all
pecuniary transactions where the case will permit it, you will
take bills of particulars and receipts as vouchers in the settlement
of your public accounts.

Haveing accomplished our voyage to the Pacific Ocian by
way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers we are now on our
return to the United States where we must arive if possible in
the course of this Season. we shall spend a fiew weeks in
exploring the country on the River Rochejhone and a large
northerly branch of the Missouri dischargeing itself 50 miles
below the Great falls of that river to which we have given the
name of Maria's river. in order that no time shall be lost, we

have in the interim dispatched a party over land from the
upper part of the Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river to the
Mandans and thence to your establishment on the assinniboin,
with a view to give you as much time as possible to collect the
Sioux chiefs at some convenient part of the Missouri against
our arival, that we may not experience any detention. we shall
in all probability arrive at the Mandans about the beginning of
September, perhaps earlyer; at all events we wish you to lose
no time in collecting the chiefs and repairing to the Missouri
where you will wait our arrival, informing us if possible of your
position. perhaps the Ricaras Village, if they have not removed
will be an eligible place of rendezvouz, but in this
respect we shall not pretend to controal you, as you will be on
the ground and can better judge of the most expedient position
for this purpose. It may possibly so happen that you will be
absent from the Missouri at the time of our arrival at the
Mandans and Ricaras, and as some communication may be
necessary between us in such case, we wish you to concert a
plan with Sergt. Pryor for that purpose. Should you not suceed
in prevailing on the chiefs to go on with us as early as we wish,
if you will meat us yourself on the Missouri we will make some
other arrangement by which you will be enabled perhaps to
bring them on afterwards youself; but it would be preferable
in every point of view that they should go on with us. The
number of chiefs and their attendance must not exceed 12 persons,
as we cannot possibly accommodate more.

In your communication with the Sioux, in addition to other
considerations which may suggest themselves to your mind,
you will be pleased to assure them of the friendly views of our
government towards them, their power and resourses, their
intention of establishing trading houses in their neighbourhood
and the objects of those establishments, inform them that the
mouth of all the rivers through [which] traders convey Merchindize
to their country are now in the possession of the
United States, who can at pleasure cut off all communication
between themselves and their accustomed traders, and consequently
the interest they have in cultivateing our friendship.
You may also promis them in the event of their going on with

us, that they shall receive from our government a considerable
preasent in Merchindize, which will be conveyed at the public
expence with them to their nation on their return. urge
them also to go imediately, on the ground, that their doing
so will haisten the establishment of the tradeing house in
contemplation.

You no doubt are acquainted with the influence which
Mr. Cammaron[35] and other traders of the River St. Peters possess
over those people, the implicit confidence which they place
in the power and resourses of those traders, the hitherto unfriendly
dispositions of those men in relation to the trade of
the Missouri, and thence the aggressions practised by the
Sicoux on the traders of that river. Their long established
prejudices in favour of the Traders of the river St. Peters will
probably prove a serious bar to your present negociations,
unless our government has taken some measures on this subject
in consequence of the representation which we made them
in the Spring 1805. if so, and those traders have been prevented
from bringing out their merchindize this spring as they
were accustomed to do, the Indians will most probably not
long hesitate in complying with our wishes; however be this
as it may, the most perfect reliance is placed in your exertions
by

[Instructions to Pryor, referred to above by Clark.][37]

Camp on the River Rochejbone 115 Miles
below the Rocky Mountains July 25th. [23rd] 1806

Sir   You will with George Shannon, George Gibson &
Richard Windser take the horses which we have brought with

us to the Mandans Village on the Missouri when you arrive
at the Mandans, you will enquire of Mr. Jussomme and any
british Traders who may be in neighbourhood of this place for
Mr. Hugh Heney if you are informed, or have reasons to
believe that he still remains at the establishments on the
Assinniboin River, you will hire a pilot to conduct you and
proceed on to those establishments and deliver Mr. Heney the
letter which is directed to him. You will take with you to the
Establishments on the Assinniboin River 12 or 14 horses, 3 of
which Mr. Heney is to have choise if he agrees to engage in the
Mission preposed to him. as maney of the remaining horses
as may be necessary you will barter with the traders for such
articles as we may stand in need of such as Flints three or 4
Doz. Knives, a fiew lbs. of Paint, some Pepper, Sugar & Coffee
or Tea, 2 Doz. Cors Handkerchiefs, 2 small Kegs of Sperits,
2 Cappoes, Tobacco sufficient, Glaubr. Salts, and such curious
species of fur as you may see. or such of those articles as you
may be enabled to get and we are most in want of viz. Tobacco
Knives & flints &c. The Horses which you do not take with
you from the Mandans you will leave in the care of the Black
Cat Grand Chief of that nation untill we arive. They together
with those you may not dispose of as before directed is to pay
for $200 of Merchendize to be put in the hands of Mr. Heney
as presents for the Soux chiefs as an inducement for them to
accompany us to the Seat of our Government, and to purchase
cors robes and such other articles as the party may stand in
need of. Should Mr. Heney not be at the Establishments on
the Assinniboin River or at the Mandans, you will remain with
Mandans untill our arival at that place. Should Mr. Heney
agree to undertake the Mission preposed in the letter you are
to agre with him upon some plan by which means we may hear
from him in the event that he should not Suckceed with the
Sioux chiefs as soon as he expects; or what point he will meet
us at on the Missouri. haveing the fullest confidence of your
exertions on this enterprise, health hapiness and a safe journey
is the sincere wish of your Frend

Thursday 24.th July 1806.

had all our baggage put on board of the two small canoes
which when lashed together is very Study and I am convinced
will [carry] the party I intend takeing down with me. at
8 AM. we Set out and proceeded on very well to a riffle about
1 mile above the enterance of [Clarks fork or] big horn river (a
river 150 Yds. wide comes in from S West, we thought it the B. H.
but aftds. when we found the B. H. we called it Clarks fork, a bold
river washing plain. The Indians call this [blank space in MS.]
or "The lodge where all dance")[38] at this rif[f]le the small
canoes took in a good deel of water which obliged us to land a
little above the enterance of the [this river which the [blank
space] has called Clarks fork] to dry our articles and bail the
canoes. I also had Buffalow skin tacked on so as to prevent
the waters flacking in between the two canoes. This last River
is 150 yards wide at it's Mouth and 100 a short destance up
the water of a light Muddy colour and much Colder than that
of the Rochejhone a Small Island is Situated imediately in its
mouth, the direction of this river is South and East of that
part of the rocky mountains which can be seen from its enterance
and which seem to termonate in that direction. (good place
for fort &c here the beaver country begins—best between this &
Rochejaune.) I thought it probable that this might be the big
horn river, and as the Rochejhone appeared to make a great
bend to the N. I deturmined to set the horses across on S. side.
ones chanel of the river passes under a high black bluff from
one mile below the place we built the Canoes to within 3 miles
of the enterance of Clarks fork when the bottoms widen on
each side those on the Stard. Side from 1/2 to a mile in width,
river much divided by Islands, at 6 Ms. below the fork I
halted on a large Island Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a
narrow Chanel, on this, This being a good place to cross the
river I deturmined to wait for Sergt. pryor and put him across
the river at this place. on this Island I observd. a large lodge

the same which Shannon informed me of a fiew days past. this
Lodge [is] a council lodge, it is of a Conocil form 60 feet
diameter at its base built of 2[0] poles each pole a 2½ feet in
secumpherance and 45 feet long built in the form of a lodge &
covered with bushes. in this Lodge I obse[r]ved a Cedar bush
Sticking up on the opposit side of the lodge fronting the dore,
on one side was a Buffalow head, and on the other several
Sticks bent and stuck in the ground. a Stuffed Buffalow skin
was suspended from the Center with the back down. the top
of those poles were deckerated with feathers of the Eagle &
Calumet Eagle also several curious pieces of wood bent in Circleler
form with sticks across them in form of a Griddle hung
on tops of the lodge poles others in form of a large Sturrip.
This Lodge was errected last Summer. It is situated in the
center of a butifull Island thinly covered with Cotton wood
under which the earth which is rich is covered with wild rye
and a Species of grass resembling the bluegrass, and a mixture
of Sweet grass which the Indian plat and ware around their
necks for its cent which is of a strong sent like that of the
Vinella[39] after Dinner I proceeded on passed the enterance of a
Small creek and some wood on the Stard Side[40] where I met with
Sergt. Pryor, Shannon & Windser with the horses they had
but just arived at that place. Sergt. Pryor informed me that it
would be impossible for the two men with him to drive on the
horses after him without tireing all the good ones in pursute of
the more indifferent to keep them on the course. that in passing
every gangue of buffalow several of which he had met with,
the loos horses as soon as they saw the Buffalow would imediately
pursue them and run around them. All those that [had]
speed sufficient would head the buffalow and those of less
speed would pursue on as fast as they could. he at length
found that the only practiacable method would be for one of
them to proceed on and when ever they saw a gang of Buffalow
to Scear them off before the horses got up. This disposition in
the horses is no doubt owing to their being frequently exercised
in chasing different animals by their former owners the Indians
as it is their Custom to chase every species of wild animal with
horses, for which purpose they train all their horses. I had
the horses drove across the river and set Sergt. Pryor and his
party across. H. Hall who cannot swim expressed a Willi[ng]ness
to proceed on with Sergt. Pryor by land, and as another
man was necessary to assist in driveing the horses, but observed
he was necked, I gave him one of my two remaining Shirts a
par of leather Legins and 3 pr. of mockersons which equipt him
completely and sent him on with the party by land to the
Mandans. I proceeded on [down] the river much better than
above the enterance of the Clarks fork deep (more navigable) and
the Current regularly rapid from 2 to 300 yards in width where
it is all together, much divided by islands maney of which are
large and well Supplyed with cotton wood trees, some of them
large, Saw emence number of Deer Elk and buffalow on the
banks. Some beaver. I landed on the Lard Side walked out
into the bottom and Killed the fatest Buck I every saw;
Shields killed a deer and my man york killed a Buffalow Bull,
as he informed me for his tongue and marrow bones. for me
to mention or give an estimate of the differant Species of wild
animals on this river particularly Buffalow, Elk Antelopes &
Wolves would be increditable. I shall therefore be silent on
the subject further. So it is we have a great abundance of the
best of meat. we made 70 Ms. to day current rapid and much
divided by islands. [Campd. a little below Pryors river[41] of 35
yds. on S. E.]

Course Distance & remarks July 24th. 1806

                                                                     

	Miles
S.E. to a Bluff in a Stard. Bend passed Lower point of an Isld.	1
S.70° E. under the Stard. Bluff passed an Island on the Lard. Side	2
S.20°. E. to a Lard. Bend pasd. 4 Islands near the Lard Side. a high bluff on the Stard. Side Low leavel plain on Lard. Side	4
East to a large Island covered with wood middle of the river	1/2
N.20°. E. to the main Larboard Shore passing on the left of the Island	1/2
S.18°. E. to a bend on the left Side of the island	1/2
N.40°. E. to a Lard. Bend. timber on both sides of the river	1 1/2
S.75°. E. passing the lower point of an Island at 2 Miles opposit to the upper point of another island	2
North to the main Lard. Shore passed the Island	1. 1/2
N.65°. E. to a Bluff bank on the Stard. Side. passed some rough waves. the river about 200 yards wide	2. 1/2
N.12°.E. to a Lard. Bend passing a small island. low bottoms on Std	1. 1/2
East to a high bluff on the Stard. Side	2
N.20°. E. to a Lard. Bend. passed 2 islands, near the Stard. shore to the lower point of an Island close on Lard. small rapid	3
N.60°. E. to the upper part of a wood in a Lard Bend. low bottoms passed a small stoney Island	2 1/2
East. to the enterance of Clarks fork 100 Yds. wide. passing a bad rapid at 3 miles. passed 5 small islands	4.
	29
North to a Lard Bend. river near 300 yards wide	2.
N-58°. E. to a Stard Bend passing 5 small islands. passed an old Indian fort of logs and bark on a Island close to Lard. Side	4.
N.46°. E. to a Bluff in a Stard. Bend opsd. an Isld. passed one in Midl. R	3
N.36°. E. to a large brook in a Stard. Bend opposit a stoney bar	1 1/2
N.25°. W. to a Lard. Bend passed the lower point of 2 islands	1 1/2
N.60°. W. to a wood in the Stard. Bend passed 4 islands	3 1/2
North to a Lard Bend opposit some large timber on Stard. Side	1 1/2
N.60°. E. to a point on the Lard. Side opposit to a large island in the middle of the river. passed several small islands	3 1/2
North to a bend below some wood in the Lard Bend low bottoms on either Side [Hors[e] Creek falls in on Std.]	1.
N.64°. E. to a Lard. point passing an Island and the lower point of a large Island	2 1/2
N.45°E. to the lower part of a timbered bottom on the Lard Side (here I had the Horses crossed 26 in number &c.)	1.
East to a high Bluff bank in a Stard. Bend passed an Isld.	2.
N.20°. E. to the enterance of a brook on the Stard. Side, passing at the foot of a high black bluff on the Stard. Side .	2.
N.W. to a bend on the Lard. passed 2 small islands. a high clift of yellowish Gritty Stone on the Stard. Side .	2.
North to a low clift of dark rock on the Lard. Side. the high clift continue on the Stard for 2 miles	4
N. 12°. E. to a low black Bluff on the Lard. Side opsd. to a low bottom. 2 small stoney islands	1 1/2
N.55°. E. to the upper point of an island in a Stard. Bend passed a creek on the Lard side at 3 miles Pryors river	3 1/2
Miles	69

Friday 25th. July 1806.

We Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on very well for three
hours. Saw a large gange of Buffalow on the Lard. Bank. I
concluded to halt and kill a fat one, dureing which time some
brackfast was ordered to be cooked. we killed 2 Buffalow and
took as much of their flesh as I wished. Shields killed two
fat deer and after a delay of one hour and a half we again proceeded
on. and had not proceeded far before a heavy shower
of rain pored down upon us, and the wind blew hard from the
S W. the wind increased and the rain continued to fall. I
halted on the Stard. Side had some logs set up on [end] close
together and covered with deerskins to keep off the rain, and
a large fire made to dry ourselves. the rain continued moderately
untill near twelve oClock when it cleared away and
become fair. the wind contin[u]ed high untill 2 P M. I
proceeded on after the (rain) lay a little and at 4 P M arived
at a remarkable rock situated in an extensive bottom on the
Stard. Side of the river & 250 paces from it. this rock I ascended
and from it's top had a most extensive view in every
direction. This rock which I shall call Pompy's Tower is
200 feet high and 400 paces in secumpherance and only axcessable

on one Side which is from the N. E the other parts of it
being a perpendicular clift of lightish coloured gritty rock on
the top there is a tolerable soil of about 5 or 6 feet thick
covered with short grass. The Indians have made 2 piles of
stone on the top of this Tower. The nativs have ingraved on
the face of this rock the figures of animals &c. near which I
marked my name and the day of the month & year.[42] From
the top of this Tower I could discover two low Mountains &
the Rocky Mts. covered with Snow S W. one of them appeared
to be extencive and bore S.15°.E. about 40 Miles. the
other I take to be what the indians call the Little wolf Mtn. I
can only see the Southern extremity of it which bears N55°.W.
about 35 Miles.[43] The plains to the South rise from the distance
of about 6 Miles the width of the bottom gradually to
the mountains in that derection. a large creek with an extencive
Vally the direction of which is S.25°.E. meanders boutifully
through this plain. a range of high land covered with
pine appears to run in a N. & S. direction approaching the
river below. on the Northerly Side of the river high romantic
clifts approach & jut over the water for some distance both
above and below. a large Brook which at this time has some
running muddy water falls in to the Rochejhone imediately
opposit Pompys Tower. back from the river for some distance
on that Side the hills are ruged & some pine back the
plains are open and extensive. after Satisfying my self sufficiently
in this delightfull prospect of the extensive country
around, and the emence herds of Buffalow, Elk and wolves in
which it abounded, I decended and proceeded on a fiew miles,
saw a gang of about 40 Big horn animals fired at them and
killed 2 on the sides of the rocks which we did not get. I
directed the canoes to land, and I walked up through a crevis
in the rocks almost inaxcessiable and killed 2 of those animals
one a large doe and the other a yearlin Buck. I wished very
much to kill a large buck, had there been one with the gang I
should have killd. him. dureing the time the men were getting
the two big horns which I had killed to the river I employed
my self in getting pieces of the rib of a fish which was Semented
within the face of the rock this rib is (about 3) inches in Secumpherance
about the middle it is 3 feet in length tho a part
of the end appears to have been broken off (the fallen rock is
near the water—the face of the rock where rib is is perpendr.—
4is lengthwise, a little barb projects) I have several peces of this
rib the bone is neither decayed nor petrified but very rotten.
the part which I could not get out may be seen, it is about 6
or 7 Miles below Pompys Tower in the face of the Lard. Clift
about 20 feet above the water. after getting the big horn on
board &c. I proceeded on a Short Distance and encamped, an
earlyer [hour] than I intended on account of a heavy cloud
which was comeing up from the S.S.W. and some appearance
of a Violent wind. I walked out and killed a small Buck for
his skin which the party are in want of for clothes. about
Sunset the wind blew hard from the W. and some little rain.
I encamped on the Stard. Side imediately below the enterance
[of] Shannons River about 22 Yards wide, and at this time discharges
a great portion of water which is very Muddy. emence
herds of Buffalow about our [camp] as it is now running time
with those animals the bulls keep such a grunting nois which
is [a] very loud and disagreeable sound that we are compelled
to scear them away before we can sleep the men fire several
shot at them and scear them away.

Course distance and remarks July 25th. 1806

                                         

	Miles
N.20°.W. to the head of a large Island in the middle of the river, haveing passed an island	2.
East to a low clift on the Lard. Side passed a large Island .	2.
N.25°.E. passing under the Lard. Bluff. passed rock creek (small) on the Lard. Side but a small quantity of water	1 /12
N.45°.E to a high point of land on the Stard. Side, passed a large island at 1 mile and several small Islds. passed the enterance of a small river [Pryor's Creek] on Stard. Side	5.
N.20°. W. to a low Clift on the Lard. Side passed 3 islands	2.
N.25°. E. to the head of an Island in the Stard. Bend passed four islands	4.
N.15°.W. to a low black bluff on the Lard Side, haveing passed a large Brook on the Lard Side	3.
N.60°. E. to a Lard. point passing a Bluff on the Lard Side.	1.
N.45°. E. to a point of woodland on the Stard. Side opposite to a bluff bank which we passed under on the Lard Side passed a large brook at 1/4 of a mile, one at 5 and one at 7 and a small one at 8 1/2 Miles all on the Lard Side. passed 6 islands and several stoney bars	10.
N.65°. E. to a Stard Bend passing the head of an island at 2 Miles	3
North to a Larboard Bluff below the island	1.
N.70°. E. to a Bluff on the Lard Side which has Sliped into the river and filled up 1/3 of the river on the top a yellowish Gritty Stone of 20 feet thick	2 1/2
N.80°. E. to the point of a Bluff on the Lard. Side passed several stoney bars	3.
East to a rugid bluff latterly sliped into the river on the Lard Side opposit to the head of an island	2
South to the Lower point of an island on Stard. Side.	1.
N.62°. E. to the point of a Lard. Bluff passed the Island.	3.
East to Pompys Tower. 200 feet high, 400 paces around from the top of which the rocky mountains covered with snow can be seen S W. also two low mountains one S. 15. E. and the other N.55°. W this rock is situated 250 paces from the water on the Stard Side of the river, and opposit to a large Brook on the Lard Side I call baptiests Creek[44]	3.
N.66°. E. to high Clift point of rocks on the Lard. Side passed a point of the clift at 2 miles. and 2 stoney bars or islands .	5
S.60°. E. to the enterance of Shannon Creek[45] 22 yds wide on the Stard. Side passed the Lard. Clifts at 3 Miles passes Several Stoney bars	4
Miles.	58

(See a discription of the Country South in an appendix of the next book)[46]

Saturday 26th July 1806

Set out this morning very early proceeded on very well
Passed Creeks (Hall's N. Side) the river reagulilarly swift
much divided by stoney islands and bars also handsome Islands
covered with cotton wood the bottoms extensive on the Stard
Side on the Lard the Clifts of high land border the river,
those clifts are composed of a whitish rock of an excellent
grit for Grindstones. The country back on each side is
wavering lands with scattering pine. passed 2 Small Brooks
on the Stard. Side and two large ones on the Lard. Side. I shot
a Buck from the Canoe and killed one other on a Small Island.
and late in the evening passed a part of the river which was
rock under the Lard Clifts fortunately for us we found an
excellent chanel to pass down on the right of a Stoney Island
half a Mile below this bad place, we arived at the enterance of
Big Horn River on the Stard. Side, here I landed imediately
in the point which is a Sof[t] Mud mixed with the Sand and
Subject to overflow for Some distance back in between the two
rivers. I walked up the big horn 1/2 a mile and crossed over
to the lower Side, and formed a camp on a high point. I with
one of my men Labeech walked up the N E Side of Big horn
river 7 miles to thenterance of a Creek which falls in on the
N E. Side and is (28) Yds wide some running water which is
very Muddy this Creek I call Muddy Creek[47] Some fiew
miles above this Creek the river bent around to the East of
South.

The courses as I assended it as follows Viz:

S.35°.E. 3 miles to a low clift on the right passed a point on the
right at 1 1/2 Ms. an island Situatd. close to the left hand
Shore. under this clift is some swift rapid water and
high waves

S.61°.E. 3 Miles to a high bank of a Second bottom in the left hand
bend passed head of the Isld.

8.38°.W. 4 miles to a right hand bend, passing a large creek of
muddly water on the left Side at 1 Mile, opposit a Sand
bar from the right.

The bottoms of the Bighorn river are extencive and Covered
with timber principally Cotton. it's current is regularly Swift,
like the Missouri, it washes away its banks on one Side while
it forms extensive sand bars on the other. contains much less
portion of large gravel than the R: Rochjhone and its water
more mudy and of a brownish colour, while that of the rochejhone
is of a lightish colour. the width of those two rivers
are very nearly the same imediately at their enterances the
river Rochejhone much the deepest and contain most water. I
measured the debth of the big horn quit[e] across a[t] 1/2 a
mile above its junction and found it from 5 to 7 feet only while
that of the River (rochejaune) is in the deepest part 10 or 12
feet water. on the lower Side of the bighorn is [an] extencive
boutifull and leavil bottom thinly covered with cotton wood
under which there grows great quantities of rose bushes. I am
informed by the Menetarres Indians and others that this River
takes its rise in the Rocky mountains with the heads of the
river plate and at no great distance from the river Rochejhone
and passes between the Coat Nor [Côte Noir] or Black Mountains
and the Most Easterly range of Rocky Mountains. it is
very long and contains a great perpotion of timber on which
there is a variety of wild animals, perticularly the big horn
which are to be found in great numbers on this river. (2 large
forks come in on Sth. & 1 on North)[48] Buffalow, Elk, Deer and
Antelopes are plenty and the river is said to abound in beaver
it is inhabited by a great number of roveing Indians of the
Crow Nation, the paunch Nation (a band of Crows) and the
Castahanas (a band of Snake In.)[49] all of those nations who are
Subdivided rove and prosue the Buffalow of which they make

their principal food, their Skins together with those of the Big
horn and Antilope serve them for Clothes. This river is said
to be navagable a long way for perogues without falls and
waters a fine rich open Country. it is 200 yds water & 1/4 of a
Ml. wd. I returned to camp a little after dark, haveing killed
one deer, finding my self fatigued went to bed without my
supper. Shields killed 2 Bull[s] & 3 Elk.

Courses distances & remarks July 26th. 1806

                                     

N. 18°. E. to a point on the Stard. Side, passed a low narrow island on the Stard. and Som bars near the Lard. Side	6.
N. 57°. E. to a point on the Stard. Side. passed an island and 4 Stoney bars. also a large Creek 40 Yds wide [I call Halls R] on the Lad. Side at 4 miles. but little water	6.
East 4 Miles to a Clift under a high pine hill on the Stard. Side. passed a small Creek on the Stard at 1 mile and the Lard Clift opsd. the head of an Isld. at 2 Miles on this course .	4.
N. 12°. E. to a clift of white rocks on the Lard. Side, passed the island and 2 stoney bars	3 1/2
East to clift of rocks on the Stard. Side. passed several stoney bars or islands	5.
N.45°. E. to a high clift on the Lard. Side opposit several small islands. Chanel of the river much divided. passed 2 small Islands. low bottoms on the Stard Side rocky clifts on Lard side	2 1/2
East to a Stard. Bend passed an island & a stoney bar .	2 1/2
N.10°. E. to a clift on the Lard Side. Island on Stard. Side	1 1/2
N.54.°. E, to the lower point of the island near the Stard. side. passed the upper point of an island	1 1/2
North to a high White clift on the Lard. Side haveing passed two stoney Islands	4.
East. to the enterance of a small brook on the Stard. passed 3 islands and the upper point of the 4th. near Lard	6.
North to the lower point of an island close to the Lard. Side. back of which a large creek falls in on the Lard Side Island [brook]	4.
N. 60°. E. to a tree under a Lard. Clift passed a Std. Clift .	3.
East to a large tree in the Stard. Bend	4.
N. 35°. E. to a Lard. Bend passed the Stard. Clift at 2 Miles.	4.
East to the lower point of an island	1 1/2
N: 35°. E. to a clift in a Lard. Bend under which there is a rapid, a gravelly bar opposit on the S.E of which there is a good chanel	2 1/2
East to the junction of the Big horn River on the Stard. 200 yards wide from 5 to 7 feet deep quit[e] across, and encamped on the lower side bottom subject to floods	1/2
Miles	62

[Speech prepared for Yellowstone Indians][50]

Children. The Great Spirit has given a fair and bright day
for us to meet together in his View that he may inspect us in
this all we say and do.

Children I take you all by the hand as the children of your
Great father the President of the U. States of America who is
the great chief of all the white people towards the riseing sun.

Children This Great Chief who is Benevolent, just, wise &
bountifull has sent me and one other of his chiefs (who is at
this time in the country of the Blackfoot Indians) to all his
read children on the Missourei and its waters quite to the great
lake of the West where the land ends and the [sun] sets on the
face of the great water, to know their wants and inform him of
them on our return.

Children We have been to the great lake of the west and
are now on our return to my country. I have seen all my
read children quite to that great lake and talked with them,
and taken them by the hand in the name of their great father
the Great Chief of all the white people.

Children We did not see the [blank space in MS.] or the
nations to the North. I have [come] across over high mountains
and bad road to this river to see the [blank space in MS.]
Natn I have come down the river from the foot of the great

snowey mountain to see you, and have looked in every derection
for you, without seeing you untill now

Children I heard from some of your people [blank space in
MS.] nights past by my horses who complained to me of your
people haveing taken 4 [24] of their cummerads.

Children The object of my comeing to see you is not to do
you injurey but to do you good the Great Chief of all the
white people who has more goods at his command than could
be piled up in the circle of your camp, wishing that all his read
children should be happy has sent me here to know your
wants that he may supply them.

Children Your great father the Chief of the white people
intends to build a house and fill it with such things as you may
want and exchange with you for your skins & furs at a very
low price. & has derected me [to] enquire of you, at what
place would be most convenient for to build this house. and
what articles you are in want of that he might send them imediately
on my return

Children The people in my country is like the grass in
your plains noumerous they are also rich and bountifull. and
love their read brethren who inhabit the waters of the Missoure

Children I have been out from my country two winters,
I am pore necked and nothing to keep of[f] the rain, when
I set out from my country I had a plenty but have given it all
to my read children whome I have seen on my way to the
Great Lake of the West, and have now nothing.

Children Your Great father will be very sorry to here of
the [blank space in MS.] stealing the horses of his Chiefs &
Warrors whome he sent out to do good to his red children on
the waters of Missoure.

[Two lines in MS. so worn and torn as to be illegible.]
their ears to his good counsels he will shut them and not let
any goods & guns be brought to the red people. but to those
who open their Ears to his counsels he will send every thing
they want into their country. and build a house where they
may come to and be supplyed whenever they wish.

Children Your Great father the Chief of all the white people
has derected me [to] inform his red children to be at peace

with each other, and with the white people who may come into
your country under the protection of the Flag of your great
father which you. those people who may visit you under the
protection of that flag are good people and will do you no
harm

Children Your great father has derected me to tell you not
to suffer your young and thoughtless men to take the horses
or property of your neighbours or the white people, but to
trade with them fairly and honestly, as those of his red children
below.

Children The red children of your great father who live
near him and have opened their ears to his counsels are rich
and hapy have plenty of horses cows & Hogs fowls bread &c.
&c. live in good houses, and sleep sound. and all those of his
red children who inhabit the waters of the Missouri who open
their ears to what I say and follow the counsels of their great
father the President of the United States, will in a feew years
be a[s] hapy as those mentioned &c.

Children It is the wish of your Great father the Chief of all
the white people that some 2 of the principal Chiefs of this
[blank space in MS.] Nation should Visit him at his great city
and receive from his own mouth. his good counsels, and from
his own hands his abundant gifts, Those of his red children
who visit him do not return with empty hands, he [will] send
them to their nation loaded with presents

Children If any one two or 3 of your great chiefs wishes to
visit your great father and will go with me, he will send you
back next Summer loaded with presents and some goods for
the nation. You will then see with your own eyes and here
with your own years what the white people can do for you.
they do not speak with two tongues nor promis what they
can't perform

Children Consult together and give me an answer as soon
as possible your great father is anxious to here from. (& see
his red children who wish to visit him) I cannot stay but
must proceed on & inform him &c.

Sunday 27th. July 1806

I marked my name with red paint on a cotton tree near my
camp, and Set out at an early hour and proceeded on very well
the river is much wider from 4 to 600 yards much divided by
Islands and sand bars, passed a large dry Creek at [15] Miles
(call Elk creek) and halted at the enterance of River 50 yards
wide on the Lard. Side (I call R. Labeech) killed 4 Buffalow and
saved as much of their flesh as we could carry took brackfast.[51]
The Buffalow and Elk is estonishingly noumerous on
the banks of the river on each side, particularly the Elk which
lay on almost every point in large gangs and are so jintle that
we frequently pass within 20 or 30 paces of them without their
being the least alarms the buffalow are Generally at a greater
distance from the river, and keep a continueing bellowing in
every direction, much more beaver Sign than above the big-horn,
I saw several of those animals on the bank to day.
the antilopes are scerce as also the bighorns and the deer by no
means so plenty as they were near the Rocky Mountains.
when we pass the Big horn I take my leave of the View of the
tremendious chain of Rocky Mountains white with Snow in
View of which I have been since the 1st of May last.

about sunset I shot a very large fat buck elk from the Canoe
near which I encamped, and was near being bit by a rattle
snake. Shields killed a Deer & a antilope to day for the skins
which the party is in want of for Clothes. this river below the
big horn river resembles the Missouri in almost every perticular
except that it's islands are more noumerous & current more
rapid, it's banks are generally low and falling in the bottoms
on the Stard. Side low and extencive and covered with timber
near the river such as Cotton wood willow of the different
species rose bushes and Grapevines together with the red berry
or Buffalow Grees bushes & a species of shoemake with dark
brown bark, of[f] those bottoms the Country rises gradually
to about 100 feet and has some pine. back is leavel plains.

on the Lard Side the river runs under the clifts and Bluffs of
high which is from 70 to 150 feet in hight and near the river
is some scattering low pine back the plains become leavel and
extencive. the clifts are composed of a light gritty stone which
is not very hard, and the yound stone (round stones) which
is mixed with the Sand and forms bars is much smaller than
they appeared from above the bighorn, and may here be termed
Gravel, the colour of the water is a yellowish white and less
muddy than the Missouri below the mouth of this river.

Course Distance & Remarks July 27th. 1806
from the Big Horn

                                                         

N.45°. E. to a Brook in a Stard. Bend. passed an Island at 2 Miles and one near the Stard Side at 6 Miles	6
N.45°. W. to a Lard Bend passing the point of a high clift on the Stard. at 2 Miles. passed 2 islands	3.
N.25°. E. to a high point on the Stard. Side	1 1/2
N.60°. E. to the lower pan of a Bluff on the Stard. Side, passed a large [Elk] Creek on the Lard. Side back of an Isld.	4 1/2
N.20°. E. to the upper point of an island near the Stard. side. passed 3 islands. a low bottom on each side passed a river 50 yds wide on the Lard Side which contains but little water nearly dry [Windsers River][52]	4.
N.15°.E. to a black Bluff in the Lard. Bend. passed the entrance of a river 50 yds wide but little water at 3 miles on the Lard Side passed an Island close to the Stard. shore, and a gravelly bar below	5.
N.66°. E. to a bluff in the Lard. Bend. a low bottom of wood on the Stard. Side. passing a Clift of 60 feet in hight on the Lard. and 2 dry Brooks on the same side	4
East to a point of the Lard Bluff, bottom low on Stard	3.
N.65°. E. to the head of an island in the middle of the river. passed 2 islands and 3 bars	5.
East to the lower point of a wood on the Stard. Side passed 1 large and 4 small islands, an exten[s]ive bottoms on both Sides	5.
N.45°. E. to a Tree in the Larboard Bend	2
N.15°. E. to the enterance of a large Creek 60 yards wide on the Stard Side containing but little water [Labiechs R.]	2
N.60°. E. to a wood in the lard Bend, passed 2 Small islands	3 1/2
S.80°. E. to the island on the Stard. Side	1 1/2
North to the Lard. main Shore	1/2
S.18°. E. to the Lard. Side of the island	1/2
N.30°. E. to the enterance of a large brook in the Lard bend above a low clift [white Creek]	1.
S.45°. E. to the lower point of the island. Low bluff on Lard.	1.
S.76°. E. to a point of wood on the Stard. side, passed an island. low white clifts on the Lard Side	4.
S.82.°. E. to the lower point of an island near the Stard. side. passed one near the Lard. at 3 miles	5.
N.62°. E. to a point on the Stard. side opposit to a low bluff passed the Lard Island	2 1/2
S.45°. W. to the enterance of a brook 20 Yds wide in the Stard. Bend an Island near the Lard. high lands border the Larboard Shore	2
N.80°. E. to a Stard. point opposit a conic Mound on the top of which is a rock resembling a house & chimney	2 1/2
S.75°. E. to the point of an island, passed the upper pt. of one on each Side at 2 1/2 Miles. passed a brook on Sd Side 20 Yds wide	3 1/2
N.65°. E. to a point of the Lard Side opsd. a low bottom .	1/2
N.45°. E. to the lower point of an Island. passed 2 islands	3 1/2
S.60°. E. to the upper part of a large island	1 1/2
North to a point of the Island and Camped on the island	2.
Miles	80 1/2

Monday 28th. July 1806.

Set out this morning at day light and proceeded on glideing
down this Smooth Stream passing maney Isld. and Several
Creeks and brooks at 6 Miles passed a Creek or brook of 80
yards wide (called by Indns [blank space in MS.] or Little Wolf
river)[53] on the N W. Side Containing but little water. 6 miles
lower passed a small Creek 20 Yds wide on the Stard. Side 18
Miles lower passed a large dry creek on the Lard. Side 5 Miles
lower passed a river 70 yards wide containing but little water on
the Lard Side which I call Table Creek from the tops of several

Mounds in the Plains to the N W. resembling a table.[54] four
miles still lower I arived at the enterance of a river 100 yards
wide back of a small island on the South Side. it contains
some Cotton wood timber and has a bold current, it 's water
like those of all other Streams which I have passed in the
Canoes are muddy. I take this river to be the one the Indians
Call the Little Big Horn river.[55] The clifts on the South Side
of the Rochejhone are Generally compd. of a yellowish Gritty
soft rock, whilest those of the N. is light coloured and much
harder in the evening I passd. Straters of Coal in the banks on
either Side those on the Stard. Bluffs was about 30 feet above the
water and in 2 vanes from 4 to 8 feet thick, in a horozontal
position. the coal contained in the Lard Bluffs is in Several
vaines of different hights and thickness, this coal or carbonated
wood is like that of the Missouri of an inferior quallity. passed
a large Creek on the Stard. Side between the 1st. and 2nd. Coal
Bluffs passed several Brooks the chanel of them were wide
and contained but little running water, and encamped on the
upper point of a Small island opposit the enterance of a Creek
25 Yards wide (Inds Call Ma-shas-kap riv.) on the Stard. Side
with water.

Courses distance and Remarks July 28th. 1806.

                                                           

	Miles
N.65°. W. 1/2 to a Lard. Bend	1/2
S.45°. E. to the island at the enterance of a small sluice	1 1/2
East to the lower point of the island	1 1/2
N.80°. E. to the Lard. Bend passed the upper point of an island	1.
N.40°. W. to the Lard. Side. passed the enterance of a river partly dry 80 yards wide on the Lard Side little wolf River .	2 1/2
S.35°. E. to a Stard. Bend passed an island	2.
N.52°. E. to the Larboard Side	1 1/2
S.64°. E. to the Starboard Side	1.
N.40°. E. to the Lard Side passed a Creek. 30 yards wide on the Starboard Side but little water in it	1 1/4
East to the Stard. Side	1.
North to the Lard Side	3/4
N.35°. E. to a Stard. Bend opposit to an island	2 1/2
N.20°. W. to a yellow bluff on the Lard. Side	1/2
N.60°. E. to a low prarie in a Lard. Bend	2.
South. to a high bluff below a Brook. low open bottom on Std.	3.
S.45°. E. to a Stard. point below a cliff. of yellowish Stone opsd. to an island. Some remarkable mounds in the plains on Lard Side	2 1/2
S.70°. E. to the upper point of an island in the Stard. Bend high bluffs on the Stard Side	3 1/2
N.45°. E. to the enterance of Table Brook 30 Yds wide on the Lard Side nearly dry	2.
East to a Stard. Bluff passed 3 islands and Table river on the Lard. Side 70 yards wide some water	7
S.86°. E. to the enterance of Little Horn river from the S.S.E. 100 yards wide with a considerable portion of running water. Scattering timber on its borders a Small Island opposit its enterance. water Muddy	2.
N.55°. E. to the Centr. of a Std. Bend passd. a brook on Std at 3 Miles	4 1/2
N.45°. E. to the Center of a Lard. Bend	5 1/2
S.45°. E. to the lower part of a Bluff in which there is 2 Stratias of Stone Coal on Std Side. passed a Creek on Lard	1 1/2
East to a high Coal Bluff on the Stard. Side passed a largest Creek at 6 Miles on the Stard. Side & 2 Islds	8.
N.60°. E. to a cluster of large trees in the Stard. Bend. passed 5 islands and several bars	4 1/2
N.10.°. W. to a Lard. Bluff a vein of Coal in this bluff about 30 feet above the water. bottoms low on the Stard	1 1/2
N.73°. E. to a coal point of the Lard Bluff in which there is 5 Stratias of coal at different nights all Horozontal. an island close to the Lard. Side the river haveing made a deep bend to the Stard Side	6.
S.75°. E. to the enterance of a Brook in the Stard bend behind an island. passed an island close to the Lard. Shore. encamped on the small Isld	2
Miles	73.

The Elk on the banks of the river were so abundant that we
have not been out of sight of them to day. J Shields killed 2
deer & Labeech killed an Antilope to day. the antilopes and
deer are not Abundant. Beaver plenty

Tuesday 29.th July 1806

A slight rain last night with hard thunder and Sharp lightning
accompanied with a violent N. E. wind. I set out early
this morning wind So hard a head that w[e] made but little
way. in the fore part of the day, I saw great numbers of
Buffalow on the banks. the country on either side is like that
of yesterday. passed three large dry Brooks on the Stard. Side
and four on the Lard. Side. great quantities of coal in all the
hills I passed this day. late in the evening I arived at the enterance
of a River which I take to be (called by Indians) the
[Lazeka or Tongue River] it discharges itself on the Stard. Side
and is 150 yards wide of water the banks are much wider. I
intended to encamp on an eligable spot imediately below this
river, but finding that it's water [is] so Muddy and worm as to
render it very disagreeable to drink, I crossed the rochejhone
and encamped on an island close to the Lard. Shore. The
water of this river is nearly milk worm very muddy and of a
lightish brown colour, the current rapid and the chanel contains
great numbers of snags, near its enterance there is great
quantities of wood such as is common in the low bottoms of the
Rochejhone and Missouri, (it heads in Cote Noir has 2 branches
I heads with the Chayenne & I with one of the Big H's branches
tho' I believe that the country back thro' which this river
passes is an open one where the water is exposed to the sun
which heats it in its passage, it is Shallow and throws out
great quantities of mud and some cors gravel.[56] below this river
and on the Stard. Side at a fiew Miles from the Rochejhone the
hills are high and ruged containing Coal in great quantities.
Beaver is very plenty on this part of the Rochejhone. The
river widens I think it may be generally Calculated at from 500
yards to half a mile in width more Sand and gravelly bars
than above. cought 3 cat fish. they wer small and fat. also
a Soft Shell turtle.

Course Distance & Remarks July 29th

                                 

	M
N.25°. W. to the enterance of a dry Brook in a Lard. Bend near the high lands. passed 8 islands & three Sand and gravelly bars	5.
East to the enterance of a brook in the Stard. Bend below a small island	3.
N.10°. W. to a Larboard Bend	1 1/2
East to a Bluff on the Stard. Side	1 1/2
N.40°. E. to the lower part of a Stard. Bluff	4 1/2
North to a fiew trees in a Lard Bend	1 1/2
East to a low Bluff on the Stard. Side passed an island. also a large dry Brook at 5 Miles on the Stard Side on which there is some wood	6.
N.76°. E. to a coal Bluff on the Stard Side passed an island and a dry brook on Stard Side	3.
N.40°. E. under the Coal Bluff on Stard Side	1.
North to the upper part of a Lard. Bluff passed an island and a large brook on the Stard. Side. & a large Bead or dry brook on the Lard. Side	4.
N.55°. E. to a lard point low bottom on each Side	2 1/2
N.20°. E. to a Lard. Bluff. (coal to be seen in the hills 1 M from R.	1 1/2
N.60°. E. to a point of rocks on the Lard Side passed a Sand bar.	1 1/2
N.30°. E. to a point on Stard Side near which the river is within 100 paces [of Tongue river]	3
N.45°. E. to the enterance of [Le-ze-ka or Tongue] river on the Stard. Side 150 Yds wide. passed an island	2
Miles	41

Friday 30th. July 1806

Set out early this morning at 12 miles arived at the commencement
of Shoals the Chanel on the Stard. Side near a high
bluff. passed a Succession of those Shoals for 6 Miles the
lower of which was quit[e] across the river and appeared to
have a decent of about 3 feet, here we were compeled to let
the canoes down by hand for fear of their Striking a rock under
water and splitting. This is by far the worst place which I
have seen on this river from the Rocky mountains to this place
a distance of 694 miles by water, a Perogue or large canoe

would with Safty pass through the worst of those Shoals, which
I call the Buffalow Sholes from the circumstance of one of those
animals being in them. the rock which passes the river at
those sholes appear hard and gritty of a dark brown colour.
the clifts on the Stard. Side is about 100 feet in hight, on the
Lard. Side the country is low and the bottom rises gradually
back. here is the first appearance of Birnt hills which I have
seen on this river they are at a distance from the river on the
Lard. Side.[57] I landed at the enterance of a dry Creek on the
Lard. side below the Shoals and took brackfast. Those Dry
Rivers, Creeks &c are like those of the Missouri which take
their rise in and are the conveyance of the water from those
plains. they have the appearance of dischargeing emence torrents
of water. the late rains which has fallen in the plains
raised sudenly those Brooks which receive the water of those
plains on which those suden & heavy showers of rain must
have fallen, Several of which I have seen dischargeing those
waters, whiles those below heading or takeing their rise in the
same neighbourhood, as I passed them appears to have latterly
been high, those Brood[k]s discharge emencely of mud also,
which contributes much to the muddiness of the river. after
Brackfast proceeded on the river much narrower than above
from 3 to 400 yards wide only and only a fiew scattering trees
to be seen on the banks. at 20 miles below the Buffalow
Shoals passed a rapid which is by no means dangerous it has
a number of large rocks in different parts of the river which
causes high waves a very good chanel on the Lard. Side. this
rapid I call Bear rapid from the circumstance of a bears being
on a rock in the Middle of this rapid when I arived at it. a
violent storm from the N W. obliged us to land imediately
below this rapid, draw up the canoes and take Shelter in an old
Indian Lodge above the enterance of a river which is nearly
dry it has laterly been very high and Spread over nearly 1/4
[of] a mile in width. its chanel is 88 yards and in this there
is not more water than could pass through an inch auger hole.
[I call it Yorks dry R.] after the rain and wind passed over I
proceeded on at 7 Miles passed the enterance of a river the
water of which is 100 Yds, the bead of this river nearly 1/4 of a
mile this river is Shallow and the water very muddy and of
the Colour of the banks a darkish brown. I observe great
quantities of red Stone thrown out of this river that & from
the appearance of the hills at a distance on its lower Side
induced me to call this red Stone river. (By a coincidence I
found the Indian name Wa ha Sah.)[58] as the water was disagreeably
muddy I could not camp on that Side below its mouth.
however I landed at its enterance and sent out and killed two
fat Cows, and took as much of the flesh as the canoes would
conveniently carry and crossed the river and encamped at the
enterance of a Brook on the Lard. Side under a large Spredding
Cotton tree. The river on which we passed to day is not so
wide as above containing but fiew islands with a small quantity
of Cotton timber. no timber of any kind to be seen on the
high lands on either Side.

Course distance and Remarks 30th.. July

                                             

N.32°. E. to the lower part of a wood in the Stard. Bend opposit the head of an island near the Lard. Side	M 2 1/2
N.14°. W. to a Lard. Bluff passed an island and 2 bars	3.
N.40°. E. to the enterance of a dry brook in the Stard Bend passed the enterance of a river below the Lard Bluff 100 yards wide nearly dry at 5 Miles on this River there appears to be Some Cotton wood	6.
N.30°. W. to a tree in the Lard. Bend	1 3/4
N.60°. E. to a Bluff in the Stard. Bend pass a rocky Shoal 2/3 of the river from the Lard. Side	1 1/4
North to 3 trees in the Lard. Bend passed a large dry Creek 60 yards wide on the Stard. side	1 1/2
N.70°. E. to the point of a clift on the Stard. side opposit to the great shoal. a dark brown rock quite across passeable	4
N.45°. E. to a bush on the Lard. point passed a dry brook on each side. a low bluff on the Stard. Side	3.
N.20°. E. to the head of an island. passed a brook on the Stard. Side and a low bluff, no wood on either side	1.
N.10°. W. to the enterance of a large dry creek on the Lard. Side above a bluff. passed one on the Stard. Side	2 1/2
N.70°. E. to a Brook in the Stard. Bend passed a high bluff on the Lard Side for 1/2 a mile	1.
North to the enterance of a small dry Creek in the Lard Bend near a high bluff	1 1/2
N.20°. E. to a large dry brook in a Stard. Bend	1 1/2
N.5°. W. to the center of a Lard. Bend rocks on both sides	2.
N.30°. E. to a Stard. point	2.
East to a Stard. Bend passed a dry brook on each side	2.
N. 20°. E. to a hollow in the Stard. Bend passed a Brook on the Stard. Side. low bluffs on the Lard. Side	1 1/2
North to a fiew bushes in a Lard. Bend	1 1/2
N. 45°. E. to a Brook which discharges itself on the Stard. Side at white Bear rapids. not bad[59]	1.
N.45°. W. to a Bluff in the Lard. Bend, below the enterance of a dry river 88 Yards chanel, and when it is high spreads over nearly 1/4 of a mile in width	3/4
N. 45°. E. to a Bluff in the Stard. Bend passed a bar Std. pt.	2 1/4
North to the center of a Lard. bend low bluffs on each Side. at 3 Miles passed redstone river on the Stard. Side 100 yards water & near 1/4 of a mile chanel very muddy; at 4 Miles encamped at the enterance of a large dry brook on the Lard.	4 1/2
Miles	48

In the evening below the enterance of redstone river I observed
great numbers of Buffalow feeding on the plains, elk
on the points and antilopes. I also saw some of the Bighorn
Animals at a distance on the hills. Gibson is now able to
walk, he walked out this evening and killed an antilope.

Saturday 31st. of July 1806

I was much disturbed last night by the noise of the buffalow
which were about me. one gang swam the river near our
Camp which alarmed me a little for fear of their Crossing our

Canoes and Splitting them to pieces. Set out as usial about
Sun rise passed a rapid which I call wolf rapid from the circumstance
of one of those animals being at the rapid. here
the river approaches the high mountainous country on the
N W. Side. those hills appear to be composed of various
coloured earth and coal without much rock. I observe several
conical pounds (mounds) which appear to have been burnt.
this high country is washed into curious formed mounds &
hills and is cut much with reveens. the country again opens
and at the distance of 23 miles below the Redstone [or War
har-sah] River I landed in the enterance of a small river on
the Stard. Side 40 yards wid[e] shallow and muddy. it has
lately been very high. haveing passed the Enterance of a
River on the Lard. Side 100 yards wide which has running
water. this river I take to be the one the Menetarres Call
little wolf or Sa-a-shah River[60] The high Country is entirely
bar of timber. great quantities of Coal or carbonated wood is
to be seen in every Bluff and in the high hills at a distance on
each side. Saw more Buffalow and Elk and antilopes this
evening than usial. 18 Miles below the last river on the
Stard. Side, I passed one 60 yards wide which had running
water. this Stream I call Qak-tar-pon-er or Coal River [it] has
very steep banks on each side of it.[61] passed several large
Brooks some of them had a little running water, also Several
Islands some high black looking Bluffs and encamped on the
Stard. Side on a low point. the country like that of yesterday
is open extencive plains. as I was about landing this evening
Saw a white bear and the largest I ever saw eating a dead
buffalow on a sand bar. we fired two shot into him, he Swam
to the main Shore and walked down the bank. I landed and
fired 2 more shot into this tremendious animal without killing
him. night comeing on we could not pursue him he bled
profusely. Showers all this day.

Course distance and Remarks 31st July 1806

                                             

	M
S.80°. E. to a Bluff in a Stard. Bend passed a Low Bluff on the Stard. Side	1 1/2
N.28°. W. to a high Bluff on the Stard. Side. passed wolf rapid (not bad)	1/2
N.80°. W. to a Bluff under a very high rugid hill or low Mtn. on the Lard. Side opposit a timbered point	2 1/2
N.10°.E. to the enterance of a dry brook on the Lard. Side. passed under a high Bluff of different coloured earth on the Lard. Side. high prarie on the Stard. Side	1.
East to a Lard point at a fiew cotton wood trees	1.
N.55°. E. to a Lard. point passed a Stard. point at 1 mile high coal bluffs on the Lard Side	3.
N.45°. E. to a red bluff on the Lard. Side. passed a Std point	1 1/2
East to a Stard. Bend passed two Lard and one Stard points passed a river 100 yards wide on the Lard. Side, shallow and the water muddy, low Bluffs	6.
N. 60°. E. to an island close to the Stard. point passed a Std point and a Lard point river narrow	3.
N.30°. E. to the enterance of a river in the Stard. Bend 40 yds. wide Steep coal banks on each side of this little river. about 4 feet deep & Muddy. Coal river	2.
N.10°. W. to a high Bluff on Lard. Side (rugid)	1 1/2
East to the enterance of a brook below the Lard. Bluff. passed a Stard point. also a high Bluff on the Lard. Side laterly sliped into the river	2 1/2
S. 45°. E. to a Lard. point	1.
N.45°. E. to the head of an island near the Stard. Side. low coal bluffs on Stard Side. passed a Brook on Stard. Side	6
N.20°. E. to the enterance of a brook in the Lard Bend opposit to an island near the Stard. Side	4
N.70°. E to the lower part of a Stard Bluff at the enterance of a river 60 yards wide with deep banks on each side passed a small island. river muddy & Shallow	3.
N.30°. W. to a Lard. Bluff opsd a Stard. point	3.
N. 80°. E. to the enterance of a creek below a Stard Bluff opposit to an island. passed a brook on Lard Side at 1 Mile. one on Stard at 3 miles and an island close to the Stard Side at 2 miles	6.
N. 12°. E. to the lower part of a Stard. Bluff in a bend opposit to an island	3.
N.70°. W. to the lower point of an island psd. sand bars in different parts of the river	1 1/2
N.5°. W. to a single tree on a low Lard Bluff below the enterance of a Brook on the Lard. Side. Encampd. opposit on the Stard. Side[62]	2 1/2
Miles	66

Sunday 1st. of August 1806.

We set out early as usial the wind was high and ahead
which caused the water to be a little rough and delayed us
very much aded to this we had showers of rain repeatedly all
day at the intermition of only a fiew minits between them.
this rendered My situation a very disagreeable one. in an
open canoe wet and without a possibility of keeping my self
dry. the country through which we passed is in every respect
like that through which I passed yesterday. The brooks have
all some water in them from the rains which has fallen. this
water is excessively muddy. Several of those brooks have
some trees on their borders as far as I can see up them. I
observe some low pine an[d] cedar on the sides of the rugid
hills on the Stard. Side, and Some ash timber in the high bottoms.
the river has more Sand bars today than usial, and
more soft mud. the current less rapid. at 2 P. M. I was
obliged to land to let the Buffalow cross over. not withstanding
an island of half a mile in width over which this gangue of
Buffalow had to pass and the chanel of the river on each side
nearly 1/4 of a mile in width, this gangue of Buffalow was entirely
across and as thick as they could swim. the chanel on
the side of the island the[y] went into the river was crouded
with those animals for 1/2 an hour. (I was obliged to lay to for
one hour) the other Side of the island for more than 3/4 of an
hour. I took 4 of the men and killed 4 fat cows for their fat
and what portion of their flesh the small canoes could carry,
that which we had killed a few days ago being nearly spoiled
from the wet weather. encamped on an Island close to the
Lard. Shore. two gangues of Buffalow crossed a little below us,
as noumerous as the first.

Course Distance and Remarks Augt. 1st. 1806

                                               

	M
N.45. E. to a single tree below a large brook in a Stard. Bend opposit to the head of an island	2 1/2
North to the head of an island. passed 2 islands, also a large Brook on the Lard. Side	5.
N.45°. E. to a tree on the Stard. Shore, passed a Brook Std	1 1/2
N.45°. W. to the lower point of an island close to the Lard Side. passed an island close to the Stard. Side	2 1/2
N.40°. E. to a Stard. Bend passed an island	2 1/2
N.15°. E. to the Lard. point	3.
North to a wood on the Stard. Side passd. a small island	1 1/2
N24°. W. to some timber on the Lard Side	2.
N.20°. E. to the head of an island	1.
N.10°.E. to a Bluff on the Lard Side	1.
N.46°. E. to a wood on the Lard Side	1 1/2
North to a wood on the Lard Side	2.
N.80°. E. to a wood on the Stard Side	1 1/2
N.50°. W. to a deep bend on the Lard Side passed a Coal Bluff for 1/2 a mile on the Stard Side low and leavel	1 1/2
N.40°. E. to the center of a Lard. Bend	1.
S.50°. E. to a wood in a Stard Bend [psd. Buffalow Crossing] .	1.
N.28°. E. to the head of an island near the Stard Side	1 1/2
N.10°. E. to the enterance of a dry creek on the Lard. Side	1.
N.70°. E. to the lower point of a wood in the Stard Bend	2.
N.20°. E. to a Lard point opposit to a high bluff passed an island	6
North to the center of a Stard. Bend opposit to an island .	1 1/2
N.50°. E. to the enterance of a Small brook on Stard Side passed Several sand bars & opposit to an Isld	2
Miles	45

Monday August 2.nd 1806

Musquetors very troublesom this morning I Set out early
river wide and very much divided by islands and sand and Mud
bars. the bottoms more extencive and contain more timber
Such as Cotton wood ash willow &c. The Country on the
N W. Side rises to a low plain and extends leavel for great
extent. Some high rugid hills in the forepart of this day on
the S E side on which I saw the big horns but could not get

near them. Saw emence numbers of Elk Buffalow and wolves
today, the wolves do catch the elk. I saw 2 wolves in pursute
of [a] doe Elk which I beleive they cought they [were]
very near her when She entered a Small wood in which I
expect they cought her as She did not pass out of the small
wood during my remaining in view of it which was 15 or 20
minits &c. passed the enterance of several brooks on each side,
a small river 30 Yds wide with steep banks on the Stard. Side,
which I call [Ibex] River the river in this days decent is less
rapid crouded with Islds. and muddy bars, and is generally about
one mile in wedth. as the islands and bars frequently hide the
enterance of Brooks &c. from me as I pass'd maney of them I
have not noticed. about 8 A.M. this morning a Bear of the
large vicious species being on a Sand bar raised himself up on
his hind feet and looked at us as we passed down near the
middle of the river. he plunged into the water and swam
towards us, either from a disposition to attack't or from the
cent of the meat which was in the canoes. we Shot him with
three balls and he returned to Shore badly wounded. in the
evening I saw a very large Bear take the water above us. I
ordered the boat to land on the opposit side with a view to
attack't him when he came within shot of the shore. when the
bear was in a fiew paces of the Shore I shot it in the head. the
men hauled her on Shore and proved to be an old Shee which
was so old that her tuskes had worn Smooth, and Much the
largest feemale bear I ever saw. after taking off her Skin, I
proceeded on and encampd. a little above the enterance of Jo:
Fields Creek on Stard. Side in a high bottom covered with low
Ash and elm.[63] the Musquetors excessively troublesom.

I have noticed a great preportion [of] Buck Elks on this
lower part of the river, and but very fiew above. those above
which are emencely noumerous are feemales Generally. Shields
killed a Deer this morning dureing the time we were at Brackfast.
we were very near being detained by the Buffalow to
day which were crossing the river we got through the line
between 2 gangues.

Cours distance and remarks Augt. 2d. 1806

                                             

		M
N.20°. E.	to a bluff point on the Stard. Side passed 3 islands and Several Sandbars. also a large Creek on the Lard. at 4 M.	6
N.40°. E.	to the head of an island, haveing passed the Lower pt. of one	2 1/2
N.10°. E.	to the lower part of alow bluff on the Stard. Side passed a Small island and Several Bars	4.
North	to a Small island near the Lard. Shore a low leavel extencive plain on the Lard. Side	2.
N.70°. E.	to the enterance of a Creek 30 yards wide in a Stard. Bend opposit to a large island [Ibex Creek]	1 1/2
North.	to a point on the Stard. Side passing under a low bluff.	1.
N.20°. E.	to a point of a large island on the Stard. Side	1 1/2
N.70°. E.	to the lower part of a low bluff on Stard Main Shore	1.
N.26°. E.	to some wood below a high bluff Stard. Side. passd. the lower point of the large island at 1/2 a mile and several Sand bars or reather mud islands	1 1/2
N. 12°. W.	to a Stard. point passed two islands and several Muddy & gravelly bars. river about 1 mile wide	6.
N.20°. E.	to a wood on the upper point of an island passd. an island near the Std. and several bars, river 1 M. wide	7.
N.60°. E.	to a Stard. bluff in a bend [above tie Buffalow crossings] passed 2 islands in the middle of the river thickly covered with wood. also passed the head of a 3rd island close to the Stard Side in the bend. passed several bars river wide &c.	13
North.	to a Stard. point passed a Stard. Bluff at 4 Miles passed an island and three Bars	9.
N.45°. E.	to an object in a Stard. Bend passed several sand bars low timbered on each Side (killed a white Bear or one of that Species)	5.
N.10°. E.	to a Stard. point of woods. an extenciv[e] bar on the Lard. Side	3.
N.20°. E.	along the Stard. point, low bluffs on Lard. an extencive bar from the Stard. river more than 1 mile	2.
N.35°. E.	to a thick wood in the center of a Stard. Bend passed several bars. a brook on the Stard. Side bottoms narrow on Stard. river more than 1 mile wide .	4.
N.60°. W.	to a Stard. point, psd. a mud bar on each side of the River	4 1/2
N.10°. E.	to a tree in the Lard. Bend. mudy bar on Stard	1 1/2
N.80°. E.	to a Bluff Point on the Stard. bend some yellow rock just above the water. passed extencive timbered bottoms on each side. river only 300 yds wide	4.
North.	to a high Bluff imediately belowe the enterance of Jo. Fields' Creek on the Stard. Side 35 yds wide river about 3/4 of a mile wide. encamped short of the distance 2 miles on the Star'd side	6
	Miles	86

Tuesday August 3rd. 1806

last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that no one of
the party Slept half the night. for my part I did not sleep one
hour. those tormenting insects found their way into My beare
and tormented me the whole night. they are not less noumerous
or troublesom this morning. at 2 miles passed the enterance
of Jo. Field's Creek 35 yds wide imediately above a high bluff
which is falling into the river very fast. on the side of this
bluff I saw some of the Mountain Bighorn animals. I assended
the hill below the Bluff. the Musquetors were so noumerous
that I could not Shute with any certainty and therefore soon
returned to the Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw
a larger gangue of ewes & yearlins & fawns or lambs of the big
horn, and at a distance alone I saw a ram. landed and Sent
Labeech to kill the ram, which he did kill and brought him on
board. this ram is not near as large as maney I have Seen.
however he is sufficiently large for a Sample. I directed
Bratten to skin him with his head horns & feet to the Skin
and Save all the bone. I have now the skin & bone of a Ram
a Ewe & a yearlin ram of those big Horn animals. at 8. A.M.
I arived at the junction of the Rochejhone with the Missouri,
and formed my camp imediately in the point between the two
river[s] at which place the party had all encamped the 26th. of
April, 1805. at landing I observed several Elk feeding on the
young willows in the point among which was a large Buck Elk
which I shot & had his flesh dryed in the sun for a Store down

the river. had the Canoes unloaded and every article exposed
to dry & Sun. Maney of our things were wet, and nearly all
the Store of meat which had been killed above Spoiled. I
ordered it to be thrown into the river. Several skins are also
spoiled which is a loss, as they are our principal dependence for
Clothes to last us to our homes &c.

Course distance & Remarks Augt. 3rd 1806.

         

West. along the Stard. Bluff to a point opposit to a low extencive timbered bottom on the Lard Side	1/4
North to the lower part of the Stard. Bluff at the commencement of a large timbered bottom. passed an island	1 3/4
N.20°. W. to a Lard. point passed a large bar on the Lard Side, and one below the Stard. point bottoms on each side extencive & covered with wood	3 1/2
N.58°. W. to the junction of the Rochejhone with the Missouri, passed a Stard. point at 1 1/2 miles above which there is a deep bend to the Std. and an extencive sand bar from the above Lard point. also an extencive Sand bar below the Stard.	—
point Miles	8

The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I
struck the River Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri
837 Miles 636 Miles of this distance I decended in 2 Small
Canoes lashed together in which I had the following Persons.
John Shields, George Gibson, William Bratten, W. Labeech,
Toust. Shabono his wife & child & my man York. The
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with
but fiew obstructions quite into the rocky Mountains. and
probably to-head [near it's source]. The country through
which it passes from those Mounts. to its junction is Generaly
fertile rich open plains the upper portion of which is roleing
and the high hills and hill Sides are partially covered with pine
and Stoney. The middle portion or from the enterance of
[Clarks] Fork as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands contain
Some Scattering pine on the Lard Side. on the Stard. or
S. E. Side is Some hills thickly Supplied with pine. The lower
portion of the river but fiew pines are to be Seen the Country
opens into extencive plains river widens and contains more

islands and bars; of corse gravel sand and Mud. The Current
of this river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2 pr. hour from
the Rocky Mts. as low as [Clarks]] Fork, at [3 1/2] Miles pr. hour
from thence as low as the Bighorn, at 3 Miles pr. hour from
thence as low as the Tongue river, at [2 3/4] Miles pt. hour from
thence as low as Wolf rapid and at 2 1/2 miles pr. hour from thence
to its enterance into the Missouri

The colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it
being of a yellowish brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a
deep drab colour containing a greater portion of Mud than the
Rochejhone.

[Lewis:][64]

This deligh[t]full river from indian information has it's extreem
sources with the North river in the Rocky mountains
on the confines of New Mexico. it also most probably has it's
westerly sources connected with [*] the Multnomah and those
(of) the main Southerly branch of [*] (those of)2 Lewis's river
while it's Easterly branches head with those of Clark's R. the
bighorn and River Platte and may be said to water the middle
portion of the Rocky Mountains from N W to S. E. for
several hundred miles. the indians inform us that a good road
passes up this river to it's extreem source from whence it is but
a short distance to the Spanish settlements. [*] there is also a
considerable fall on this river within the mountains but at what
distance from it's source we never could learn. [*] (no)[65]
like all other branches of the Missouri which penetrate the
Rocky Mountains all that portion of it lying within those
mountains abound in fine beaver and Otter, it's streams also
which issuing from the rocky mountain and discharg themselves
above Clark's fork inclusive also furnish an abundance of beaver

and Otter and possess considerable portions of small timber in
their vallies. to an establishment on this river at clarks Fork
the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains
would willingly resort for the purposes of trade as they would
in a great measure be relived from the fear of being attacked
by their enimies the blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort
de Prarie, which would most probably happen were they to
visit any establishment which could be conveniently formed on
the Missouri. I have no doubt but the same regard to personal
safety would also induce many numerous nations inhabiting
the Columbia and Lewis's river West of the mountains to
visit this establishment in preference to that at the entrance of
Maria's river, particularly during the first years of those Western
establishments. the Crow Indians, Paunch Indians Castahanah's
and others East of the Mountains and south of this
place would also visit this establishment; it may therefore be
looked to as one of the most important establishments of the
western fur trade. at the entrance of Clark's fork[66] there is a
sufficiency of timber to support an establishment, an advantage
that no position possesses from thence to the Rocky Mountains.
The banks of the yellowstone river a[re] bold not very
high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for a few miles
immediately below where the river issues from the mountain.
the bed of this river is almost entirely composed of loose
pebb. nor is it's bed interrupted by chains of rock except in
one place and that even furnishes no considerable obstruction
to it's navigation. as you decend with the river from the
mountain the pebble becomes smaller and the quantity of mud
increased untill you rea[c]h Tongue river where the pebble
ceases and the sand then increases and predominates near it's
mouth. This river can be navigated to greater advantage in
perogues than any other craft yet it possesses suficient debth
of water for battauxs even to the mountains; nor is there any
of those moving sand bars so formidable to the navigation of
many parts of the Missouri.[67] The Bighorn R and Clark's
fork may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues and
canoes. Tongue river is also navigable for canoes a considerable
distance.

[Clark:]

Wednesday 4th. August 1806

Musquetors excessively troublesom so much so that the
men complained that they could not work at their Skins for
those troublesom insects. and I find it entirely impossible to
hunt in the bottoms, those insects being so noumerous and
tormenting as to render it imposseable for a man to continue
in the timbered lands and our best retreat from those insects
is on the Sand bars in the river and even those Situations are
only clear of them when the Wind Should happen to blow
which it did to day for a fiew hours in the middle of the day.
the evenings nights and mornings they are almost [un]indureable
perticularly by the party with me who have no Bears
[biers] to keep them off at night, and nothing to Screen them
but their blankets which are worn and have maney holes. The
torments of those Missquetors and the want of a Suffice[n]cy
of Buffalow meat to dry, those animals not to be found in this
neighbourhood induce me to deturmine to proceed on to a
more eliagiable Spot on the Missouri below at which place the
Musquetors will be less troublesom and Buffalow more plenty.
I will here observe that Elk is abundant but their flesh & fat
is hard to dry in the sun, and when dry is much easi[e]r
spoiled than either the Buffalow or Deer) I ordered the
Canoes to be reloaded with our baggage & dryed meat which
had been saved on the Rochejhone together with the Elk
killed at this place. wrote a note to Capt Lewis informing
him of my intentions and tied it to a pole which I had stuck

up in the point. At 5 P.M. Set out and proceeded on down
to the 2d. point which appeared to be an eligable Situation for
my purpose [killed a porcupine] on this point the Musquetors
were so abundant that we were tormented much worst
than at the point. The child of Shabono has been so much
bitten by the Musquetors that his face is much puffed up &
Swelled. I encamped on this extensive Sand bar which is on
the N W. Side.

Thursday 5th. August 1806

The Musquetors was so troublesom to the men last night
that they slept but very little, indeed they were excessive
troublesom to me. my Musquetor Bear has a number of
small holes worn through [which] they pass in. I set out at
an early hour intending to proceed to some other Situation. I
had not proceded on far before I saw a ram of the big horn
animal near the top of a Lard. Bluff I assended the hill with a
view to kill the ram. the Musquetors was so noumerous that
I could not keep them off my gun long enough to take sight
and by that means Missed. at 10 A.M. the wind rose with a
gentle breeze from the N.W. which in some measure thinned
the Musquetors. I landed on a sand bar from the South
Point intending to form a Camp at this place and continue
untill Capt Lewis should arive. killed two Buck Elks and a
Deer the best of their flesh & fat I had saved. had all the
dryed meat & fat put out to sun and continued at this place
untill late in the evening finding that there were no buffalow
or fresh sign I deturmined to proceed on accordingly set out
at 4 P. M and proceeded on but a fiew Miles eer I saw a Bear
of the white Species walking on a Sand bar. I with one man
went on the Sand bear and killed the Bear which proved to be
a feemale very large and fat. much the fattest animale we
have killed on the rout as this bear had got into the river
before we killed her I had her toed across to the South Side
under a high Bluff where [we] formed a Camp, had the bear
Skined and fleaced. our Situation was exposed to a light
breeze of wind which continued all the forepart of the night
from the S W. and blew away the Musquetors.

Friday 6th. August 1806

I rose very wet. about 11 P M last night the wind become
very hard for a fiew minits suckceeded by Sharp lightning and
hard claps of Thunder and rained for about 2 hours very hard
after which it continued Cloudy the balance of the night. as
we were about Setting out a female Bighorn animal came on
the bluff imediately above us and looked down. I derected
Labeech to shoot it which he did, after skinning this animal
we set out and proceeded on to a Sand bar on the S W. side
below the enterance of White earth river where I landed and
had the meat skins and bedding all put out to dry. wind hard
from the N W. I halted on the N W. side of this river in
the bend above White earth river, where I saw the Indians
had been digging a root which they eate and use in Suip,
(Soup) not more than 7 or 8 days past. This morning a very
large Bear of [the] white Species, discovered us floating in the
water and takeing us, as I prosume to be Buffalow imediately
plunged into the river and prosued us. I directed the men to
be still. this animal Came within about 40 yards of us, and
tacked. about. we all fired into him without killing him, and
the wind so high that we could not pursue hi[m], by which
means he made his escape to the shore badly wounded. I
have observed buffalow floating down which I suppose must
have been drounded in crossing above. more or less of those
animals drown or mire in passing this river. I observed several
floating buffalow on the R. Rochejhone imediately below
where large gangues had crossed. The wind blew hard all the
after part of the day. I derected the men to dress their skins
except one which I took with me and walkd. through the bottom
the foot of the hills I killed five deer and the man
with me killed 2. four others were killed in the course of the
day by the party only 2 of those deer were fat owing as I
suppose to the Musquetors which are so noumerous and
troublesom to them that they cannot feed except under the
torments of millions of those Musquetors.

Saturday 7th. August 1806

Some hard rain this morning after daylight which wet us all.
I formed a Sort of Camped and delayed untill 11 A. M. when
it stoped raining for a short time. I directed everything put
on board and proceeded on down. the rain continued at intervales
all day tho' not hard in the evening saw a Bear on the
bank but could not get a Shoot at it. at 6 P M. I landed on
a Sand bar on the South Side and Campd. Soon after we
landed the wind blew very hard for about 2 hours, when it
lulled a little. the air was exceedingly clear and cold and not
a musquetor to be seen, which is a joyfull circumstance to the
Party.

Sunday 8th. of August 1806

A cool windey morning I derected Shields and Gibson to
turn out and hunt this morning. at 8 A.M. Sergt. N. Pryor
Shannon, hall & Windsor came down the river in two canoes
made of Buffalow Skins. Sergt. Pryor informed me that the
second night after he parted with me on the river Rochejhone
he arived about 4 P.M. on the banks of a large creek which
contained no running water. he halted to let the horses graze
dureing which time a heavy shower of rain raised the creek so
high that several horses which had stragled across the chanel
of this creek was obliged to Swim back. here he deturmined
to continue all night it being in good food for the horses. In
the morning he could see no horses. in look.g about their
Camp they discovered Several tracks within 100 paces of their
Camp, which they pursued found where they had caught and
drove off all the horses. they prosued on five miles the
Indians there divided into two parties. they Continued in
pursute of the largest party five miles further finding that
there was not the Smallest chance of overtakeing them, they
returned to their camp and packed up their baggage on their
backs and Steared a N.E. course to the River Rochejhone
which they Struck at pompys Tower, there they killed a Buffalow
Bull and made a canoe (Shannon killed Bufl & made a Canoe)
in the form and shape of the mandans & Ricares (the form of
a bason) and made in the following manner. Viz: 2 Sticks

of 1 1/4 inch diameter is tied together so as to form a round
hoop of the size you wish the canoe, or as large as the Skin
will allow to cover, two of those hoops are made one for the top
or brim and the [other] for the bottom the deabth you wish
the canoe, then Sticks of the same size are crossed at right
angles and fastened with a throng to each hoop and also where
each Stick crosses each other. then the Skin when green is
drawn tight over this fraim and fastened with throngs to the
brim or outer hoop so as to form a perfect bason. one of
those canoes will carry 6 or 8 Men and their loads.[68] Those
two canoes are nearly the same size 7 feet 3 inches diameter &
16 inches deep 15 ribs or cross Sticks in each. Sergt. Pryor
informs me that the cause of his building two Canoes was for
fear of one meating with some accedent in passing down the
rochejhone a river entirely unknown to either of them by
which means they might loose their guns and amunition and
be left entirely destitute of the means of precureing food. he
informed me that they passed through the worst parts of the
rapids & Shoals in the river without takeing a drop of water,
and waves raised from the hardest winds dose not effect them.
on the night of the 26th. ulto: the night after the horses had
been stolen a Wolf bit Sergt. Pryor through his hand when
asleep, and this animal was so vicious as to make an attempt
to seize Windsor, when Shannon fortunately Shot him. Sergt.
Pryers hand has nearly recovered. The country through
which St. Pryor Passed after he parted with me is a broken
open country. he passed one Small river which I have called
Pryors river which (rises) in a Mtn. to the South of Pompys
tower. The note I left on a pole at the Mouth of the River
Rochejhone Sergt. Pryor concluding that Capt Lewis had passed
took the note and brought it with him. Capt. Lewis I expect
will be certain of my passing by the Sign which I have
made and the encampment imediately in the point. Sergt.
Pryor being anxious to overtake me Set out some time before
day this morning and forgot his Saddlebags which contains his
papers &c. I Sent Bratten back with him in serch of them.
I also sent Shannon over to hunt the bottom on the opposit
Side. Shields and Gibson returned at 10 A.M. with the Skins
and part of the flesh of three deer which they had killed in this
bottom. I derected them to take one of the Skin Canoes and
proceed down to the next bottom and [hunt] untill my arival
which will be this evening if Sergt. Pryor returns in time. My
object is to precure as many skins as possible for the purpose
of purchaseing Corn and Beans of the Mandans. as we have
now no article of Merchandize nor horses to purchase with, our
only resort is Skins which those people were very fond [of]
the winter we were Stationed near them. after dark Sergt. Pryor
returned with his Saddlebeggs &c. they were much further
up than he expected.

Monday 9th. August 1806

a heavy dew this morning. loaded the canoes and proceeded
on down about 6 miles and landed at the Camp of the 2 hunters
Shields and Gibson whome I had sent down to hunt last evening,
they had killed five deer two of which were in good order
which they brought in. here I took brackfast and proceeded
on a fiew miles and I walked on Shore across a point of near
10 miles in extent in this bottom which was mostly open I
saw some fiew deer and Elk. I killed 3 of the deer which
were Meagure the Elk appeared fat. I did not kill any of
them as the distance to the river was too great for the men to
carry the meat at the lower part of this bottom a large creek
of running water 25 yds wide falls in which meanders through
an open roleing plain of great extent. in the low bottoms of
this Creek I observed some timber Such as Cottonwood, ash
& Elm. on my arival at the lower part of the bottom found
that the canoes had been in waiting for me nearly two hours.
The Squaw brought me a (1800 Miles up the Missouri I found a)
large and well flavoured Goose berry of a rich crimsin colour,
and [a] deep purple berry of the large Cherry of the Current
Species which is common on this river as low as the Mandans,
the engagees call it the Indian Current. I landed opposit to
a high plain on the S.E. side late in the evening and walked
in a Grove of timber where I met with an Elk which I killed.

this Elk was the largest Buck I ever Saw and the fattest animal
which have been killed on the rout. I had the flesh and fat
of this Elk brough to Camp and cut thin ready to dry. the
hunters killed nothing this evening.

Tuesday 10th: August 1806 (1800 Mile up Missouri)

had the flesh of the elk hung on poles to dry, and sent out
all the hunters. wind blew hard from the East all day. in
the after part of the day it was (cloudy) & a fiew drops of rain.
I finished a copy of my Sketches of the River Rochejhone.
Shields killed a black tail deer & an antilope. the other
hunters killed nothing. deer are very Scerce on this part of
the river. I found a Species of Chery in the bottom the
s[h]rub or bush [of] which are different from any which I have
ever Seen and not very abundant even in this Small tract of
country to which it seems to be confined. the Stem is compound
erect and subdivided or branching without any regular
order. it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet seldom putting out
more than one Stem from the same root not growing in cops
as the choke cherry does, the bark is Smooth and of a dark
brown colour. the leaf is petialate, oval accutely pointed at it's
apex, from 1 and a 1/4 to one and a 1/2 inch in length and from
a half to 3/4 of an inch in wedth, finely or Manutely Serrate,
pale green and free from pubessance. The fruit is a globular
berry about the Size of a buck Shot of a fine Scarlet red; like
the cherries cultivated in the U. States each is supported by a
Seperate celindric flexable branch peduncle which issues from
the extremities of the boughs. the peduncle of this cherry
Swells as it approaches the fruit being largest at the point of
insertion. the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour
and is now ripe. the Style and Stigma are permanent. I have
never Seen it in blume. it is found on the high Stiff lands
or hill Sides. the men dug great parcel of the root which the
Nativs call Hankee and the engagees the white apple[69] which they

boiled and made use of with their meat. This is a large insipid
root and very tasteless. the nativs use the root after it
is dry and pounded in their Scup.

Wednesday 11th. August 1806

I set out early this morning, at 10 A. M. landed on a Sand
bar and brackfast dureing brackfast and my delay at this
place which was 2 hours had the Elk meat exposed to the Sun.
at Meridian I set out and had not proceeded more than 2
miles before I observed a canoe near the Shore. I derected
the canoes to land here I found two men from the illinoies
Jos. Dixon, and [blank space in MS.] Handcock those men
are on a trapping expedition up the River Rochejhone. They
inform me that they left the Illinois in the Summer 1804.
the last winter they Spent with the Tetons in company with
a Mr. Coartong (Qu: Ceautoin) who brought up goods to trade
The tetons robed him of the greater part of the goods and
wounded this Dixon in the leg with a hard wad. The Tetons
gave Mr. Coartong some new robes for the articles they took
from him. Those men further informed me that they met the
Boat and party we Sent down from Fort Mandan near the
Kanzas river on board of which was a chief of the Ricaras, that
he met the Yankton chiefs with Mr. Deurion, McClellen &
Several other traders on their way down. that the Mandans
and Menitarrais wer at war with the Ricaras and had killed two
of the latter. the Assinniboins were also at war with the
Mandans &c. and had prohibited the N W. traders from comeing
to the Missouri to trade. they have latterly killed one
Trader near the Mous River and are now in wait for Mr.
Mc. Kenzey one of the Clerks who have been for a long time
with Menetarras.[70] Those dificulties if true will I fear be a bar
to our expectations of having the Mandan Minetarra & Ricara
chief to acompany us to the U. States. Tho we shall endeaver
to bring about a peace between Mandans Mennetarres &
Ricaras and provail on some of their Chiefs to accompany us
to the U. States proceeded on to a point on the S W Side

nearly opposit the enterance of Goat pen creek[71] and encamped
found the Musquetors excessively troublesom.

Thursday 12.th August 1806

I set out early this morning and had not proceeded on far
before Shannon discovered he had lost his Tomahk. I derected
him to land his Skin Canoe and go back to our camp of last
night in serch of it, and proceeded on my self with the two
wood and one Skin canoe to a large bottom on the N E. Side
above the head of Jins (Qu: an) island and landed to take
brackfast as well as to delay untill Shannon & Gibson should
arive. Sent out Shields & Labiech to hunt deer in the bottom,
at 2 P. M. Shannon and gibson arived having found the toma-hawk
at our camp. they killed 3 Elk &c. one of the canoes
of Buffalow Skin by accident got a hole peirced in her of about
6 inches diameter. I derected two of the men to patch the
canoe with a piece of Elk skin over the hole, which they did
and it proved all sufficient, after which the Canoe did not leak
one drop. The two hunters returned without haveing killed
any thing. at Meridian Capt Lewis hove in Sight with the
party which went by way of the Missouri as well as that which
accompanied him from Travellers rest on Clarks river; I was
alarmed on the landing of the Canoes to be informed that
Capt. Lewis was wounded by an accident. I found him lying in
the Perogue, he informed me that his wound was slight and
would be well in 20 or 30 days this information relieved me
very much. I examined the wound and found it a very bad
flesh wound the ball had passed through the fleshey part of his
left thy below the hip bone and cut the cheek of the right buttock
for 3 inches in length and the debth of the ball. Capt. L.
informed me the accident happened the day before by one of
the men "Peter Crusat misstaking him in the thick bushes to be
an Elk. Capt Lewis with this Crusat and several other men
were out in the bottom Shooting of Elk, and had Scattered in

a thick part of the woods in pursute of the Elk. Crusat seeing
Capt L. passing through the bushes and taking him to be an
Elk from the colour of his cloathes which were of leather and
very nearly that of the Elk fired and unfortunately the ball
passed through the thy as aforesaid. Capt. Lewis thinking it
indians who had Shot him hobbled to the canoes as fast as
possible and was followed by Crusat, the Mistake was then
discovered. This Crusat is near Sighted and has the use of but
one eye, he is an attentive industrious man and one whome we
both have placed the greatest confidence in dureing the whole
rout. After Capt. Lewis and myself parted at Trevellers rest,
he with the Indians proceeded down the West Side of Clarks
river seven miles and crossed on rafts 2 miles below the East
fork 120 yards wide, after crossing the river he proceeded
up the North Side of the east fork and encampd. here the Indians
left him and proceeded down Clarks river in Serch of
Tushepaws an Indian man came up with Capt L. from the W.
of the mountains and proceeded on with those who had accompanied
us Capt L. proceeded up the E. fork of Clarks river
17 M8. to the enterance of Cokahlarishkit river or the river to
[the] buffalow, he proceeded up on the North Side of this
river which is 60 yards wide crossing several small streams and
the N. fork, passing over part of the dividing mountain onto
the waters of Dearbourns river in the plains and in a Derection
to the N. extremity of Easte range of rocky mountains which
pass the Missouri at the pine Island Rapid. from thence he
bore his course to the N E untill he Struck Meadicin river
near where that river Enters the rocky Mts and proceeded down
Medicine river to the Missouri at the white bear Islands at the
upper part of the portage. this rout is a very good one tho
not the most derect rout, the most derect rout would be to
proceed up the Missouri above Dearborns river and take
a right hand road & fall on a South branch of the Cokatlarishkit
R. and proceed down that river to the main road but the
best rout would be from the falls of the Missouri by fort
mountain and passing the N. extremity of that range of the
Rocky Mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine Island
rapid Course nearly S.W. and to the gap through which the
great road passes the dividing Mountain the distance from
the falls to this gap about 45 Miles through a tolerable leavel
plain on an old indian road. and the distance from thence to
Clarks river is 105 miles The total distance from the falls of
the Missouri to Clarks river is only 150 miles of a tolerable
road Capt L. arived at the white Bear Islands and encampd. on
the West Side of the Missouri and in the morning he discovered
that the Indians had taken of[f] seven of his best
horses, drewyer prosued the indians two day's on the rout
towards Clarks river. he Saw their camp on Dearborns river
near the road on which Capt. Lewis & party come on by a place
where they had left only one or two day[s] at this encampment
he Saw great appearance of horses on the return of
Drewyer Capt L. took Drewyer & the 2 fieldses & proceeded
on his intended rout up Marias river leaving Sergt. Gass, Thompson,
Frazier, Werner, Mc Neal & Goodrich at the portage to
prepare Geer and repar the wheels & carrage against the arival
of the canoes and he also left 4 horses for the purpose of hauling
the canoes across. The canoes arrived on the 16th, and on
the 26th. they had all except one across, the Plains becom so
muddy from the emence rains which had fallen, that they could
not get her over the portage. on the 28th. they joined Capt.
Lewis at the Grog Spring a fiew miles above the enterance of
Marias river. From the Falls of Missouri Capt. L. proceeded
on with Drewyer & the 2 fieldses—

Cours[e]s 17th July

 

N.10°. W.

20

Miles from the Great falls of the Missouri to rose river through an open fertile plain.

18th July

     

N.25°. W.	7	miles to the Sourse of Buffalow Creek, passing a dividing ridge dividing the waters of Marrias river from rose river at 6 miles Country hilly &c.
N.15°. W.	12	Miles down Buffalow Creek here the timber commences creek 25 Yds wide no running water.
North	5	Miles to Marias river 130 yards wide 3 feet deep. here Capt Lewis encamped the 18th July 1806

[19th July]

 

N.80°. W.

20

Miles up Marias river on its North Side passed a large creek on the South Side with some timber in it's vally at 8 miles also another large creek on the N. Side at 15 Miles 30 yards wide with but little water.

July 20th.

 

S.80°. W.

28

Miles with the river in it's course upwds. on it's N. Side river 120 Yds wide, passed a creek on South Side at 6 Miles, one at 22 miles on the N. side the last has no water, some little timber, the Genl. course of this river is very Streight its Vally ½ M. wide.

July 21st

           

S.80°. W.	15	Miles to the forks of the river the Main Southern branch bears S.75°. W. about 30 Miles to the rocky Mountains.
N.40°. W.	6	Miles up the North branch 30 yds wd. confined close between clifts of rock, shallow, rapid and not navagable.
N.25° W.	7	Miles up the North fork, hills broken & pore.
N.30°. W.	7	M. up the river, water transparent.
S.80°. W.	10	M. through the plains the river makeing a considerable bend to the right or N W.
S.75°. W.	11	M. through the plains on the N. Side of the river which here made a considerable bend to the left or S. haveing passed the river twice.

here Capt Lewis Continued the 23rd. 24th. & 25th of July to
make Some celestial observations but the weather proved So
Cloudy that he only made the following observations on the
23rd. of July

   

Observed Meridian Altd. of ☉5. L. L. with	° ′ ″
Octant by the back observation	—62.00.00.

Latitude deduced from this observation [blank space in MS.]
observed equal altitudes of the Sun with the Sextant.

       

	h	m	s		h	m	s
A.M	7.	40	57	PM	4.	32.	40.	altitude of ☉
	".	42.	30		".	33.	13	° ′ ″
	".	43.	5		".	34.	43	56. 8.45

on the 26th of July Capt. Lewis set out on his return to the
enterance of Marias river to meet with the party with the
Canoes from the falls. his course was through the plains.

S.E. 5 Miles—passing a small Creek from the Mts..

S.70° E. 9 Miles to a principal branch of Marias River
65 yards wide not very deep at 7 Mile. this last branch is
Shallow and rapid about the size of the former from the S. W.
both of those Streams contain a great preportion of timber
here we find the 3 Species of Cotton before mentioned.

N.80°. E. 4 Miles down Marias river and Met with 8 Indians
of the Blackfoot nation with about 30 horses, those
Indians professed friendship and Set out with him and encamped
together the night of the night of the 26th. of July,
they informed him that there was two large bands of their
nation in that quarter one of which would be at the enterance
of Marias river in a fiew days. they also informed that a
french Trader was with one of those bands, that they traded
with the white people on the Suskashwen River at 6 easy days
march or about 150 miles distant from whome they precured
Guns Powder Lead blankets & in exchange for wolf and
beaver Skins. Capt Lewis gave them a Flag Meadel & Handkerchief.
Capt. L. informed those Indians where he was from
& where he had been and his objects & friendly views &c. of
which they appeared to be well satisfied.

on the morning of the 27th. at day light the indians got up
and crouded around the fire, Jo. Field who was on post had
carelessly laid his gun down behind him near where his brother
was sleeping. one of the Indians Slipd. behind him and took
his gun and that of his brother unperceived by him, at the
Same instant two others advanced and Seized the guns of
Drewyer and Capt Lewis who were yet asleep. Jo. Fields seeing
this turned about to take his gun and saw the fellow running
off with his and his brothers, he called to his brother who
instantly jumped up and prosued the indian with him whome
they overtook at the distance of 50 or 60 paces Seized their
guns and rested them from him and R. Field as he Seized his
gun stabed the indian to the heart with his knife who fell dead;
(this Capt L. did not know untill some time after. drewyer

who awoke at the first alarm jumped up and Seized & rested
his gun from the indian &c. Capt L. awoke and asked what
was the matter, Seeing Drewyer in a scuffle for his gun he
turned to get his gun and found her gorn, he drew a pistol
from his holsters and prosued the Indian whom he saw in possession
of his gun making off he presented the pistol and the
indian lay down the gun. the two Fields came up and drew
up to shoot the Indian which Capt L. forbid the indians then
attempted to drive off all the horses. Capt L. derected the
men to fire on them if they attempted to drive off the horses,
and prosued two fellows who continued to drive of[f] his horses
he Shot the Indian who had taken his gun and [was] then in
possession of his horse through the belly, he fell and raised
on his elbow and fired at Capt L. the other made his escape
into a nitch out of Sight with his bow and arrows and as Capt L.
guns was empty and he without his Shot pouch, he returnd. to
the Camp where the 2 fields and Drewyer joined him having
prosued the indians across the river the[y] were now in
possession of the most of their own as well as the indian
horses and a gun several bows & arrows and all the indians
baggage the gun & some feathers and flag they took and burnt
all the other articles. and Saddled up a[s] many of the best
horses as they wished with Some Spear horses, and Set out for
to intersept the party at Marias river and poeceded on a little
to the S. of East 112 Miles to the Missouri at the Grog Spring.
here they met with Canoes and party decending joined them
leaving their horses on the river bank, and proceeded on to
the enterance of Marias river opened the deposits, found
Several articles damaged. 3 Beaver traps could not be found,
the red perogue unfit for Service, from thence they proceeded
without delay to the River Rochejhone see cources of Capt
Lewis rout in next book.

at 2 P.M. Shannon & Gibson arrived in the Skin canoe with
the Skins and the greater part of the flesh of 3 Elk which they
had killed a fiew miles above. the two men Dixon & Handcock
the two men we had met above came down intending to
proceed on down with us to the Mandans. at 3 P M we proceeded
on all together haveing left the 2 leather canoes on the

bank, a little below the enterance of Shabonos Creek[72] we
came too on a large Sand point from the S.E. Side and Encamped.
the wind blew very hard from the S W. and Some
rain. I washed Capt L. wound which has become Sore and
Somewhat painfull to him.