Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents |
I. |
II. |
III. |
[Clark:] |
IV. |
V. |
VI. |
VII. |
VIII. |
Chapter III Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | ||
[Clark:]
29th August Wednesday 1804.
Some rain last night & this morning, Sent on Colter with
Provisions in pursute of Shannon, had a Toe roap made of
Elk Skin, I am much engaged riteing. at 4 oClock P.M.
Sergt. Pryor & Mr. Dorion with 5 Cheifs and
about 70 men &
boys arrived on the opposit Side we Sent over a Perogue
& Mr. Dorrion & his Son who was tradeing with the Indians
came over with Serjt. Pryor, and informed us that the
Chiefs
were there we sent Serjt. Pryor & young Mr.
Dorion[6]
with
Som Tobacco, Corn and a few Kittles for them to Cook in,
with
directions to inform the Chiefs that we would Speek to
them
tomorrow.
Those Indians brought with them for their own use 2 Elk
& 6 Deer which the young men Killed on the way from their
Camp
12 Miles distant.
Serjt. Pryor informs me that when
[they] came near the
Indian Camp they were met by men with a Buffalow
roabe
to carry them, Mr. Dorion informed they were not
the owners
of the Boats & did not wish to be carried" the Scioues
Camps are handsom of a Conic form Covered with Buffalow
Roabs
Painted different colours and all compact & handsomly
arranged,
Covered all round an open part in the Centre for
the fire, with Buffalow
roabs, each Lodg has a place for
a Fat Dog was presented as a mark of their Great respect for
the party of which they partook hartily and thought it good
and well flavored.
The River Jacque is Deep & is navagable for Perogues a
long distance up at the Mouth it is Shallow & narrow but
above
it is 80 or 90 yards Wide passing thro: rich Praries
with but little
timber this river passes the Souix River and
heads with the St. Peters and a branch of Red river which falls
into Lake
Winepeck to the North.
The younger Dorion was afterward slain on the headwaters of
the Columbia,
while trapping for the unfortunate Astoria expedition.
—J. N. Baskett.
30th of August Thursday 1804.
a verry thick fog this morning after Prepareing Some
presents for the Cheifs which we intended [to] make by giving
Meadels, and finishing a Speech which we intended to give
them, we
sent Mr. Dorion in a Perogue for the Cheifs and
Warriers to a Council under an Oak Tree near where we had
a flag
flying on a high flagstaff at 12 oClock we met and
Cap. L. Delivered the
Speach & then made one great Chiff
by giving him a Meadel[7]
& Some
Cloathes, one 2d. Chief &
three Third Chiefs in
the same way, they recd. those things
with the goods
and tobacco with pleasure To the Grand
Chief we gave a Flag and the parole
(certificate) & Wampom
with a hat &
Chiefs. Coat,[8]
We Smoked out of the pipe of
peace, & the
Chiefs retired to a Bourey [Bowray] made of
bushes
by their young men to Divide their presents and Smoke
eate and Council
Capt. Lewis & My self retired to dinner
and consult about other
measures. Mr. Daurion is much displeased
that we did not invite him to dine
with us (which he
was Sorry for afterwards). The Souex is a Stout bold
looking
part of them make use of Bows & arrows, Some fiew fusees I
observe among them, notwith standing they live by the Bow
and arrow, they do not Shoot So Well as the Northern Indians
the Warriers are Verry much deckerated with Paint Porcupine
quils & feathers, large leagins and mockersons, all with buffalow
roabs of Different Colours, the Squars wore Peticoats & a
White Buffalow roabe with the black hare turned back over
their necks and Sholders.
I
will here remark a SOCIETY[9]
which I had never before
this day heard was in
any nation of Indians, four of which is
at this time present and all who
remain of this Band. Those
who become Members of this Society must be
brave active
young men who take a Vow never to give
back let the danger
be what it may, in War Parties they always go forward
without screening themselves behind trees or anything else to
this
Vow they Strictly adhier dureing their Lives. an instance
which happened
not long sence, on a party in Crossing the
R Missourie on the ice, a whole
was in the ice imediately in
their Course which might easily have been
avoided by going
around, the foremost man went on and was lost the others
wer
draged around by the party. in a battle with the Crow[10]
[Kite]
Indians who inhabit the Cout Noir[11]
or black Mountain
out
of 22 of this Society 18 was Killed, the remaining four was
draged off by their Party Those men are likely fellows the[y]
Set
together Camp & Dance together. This Society is in
imitation of the
Societies of the de Curbo or Crow (De Corbeau,
Kite) Indians, whom they imitate.
after the Indians got their Brackfast the Chiefs
met and
arranged themselves in a row with elligent pipes of peace all
pointing to our Seets, we Came foward and took our Seets,
the Great
Cheif The Shake hand rose and Spoke to some length
aproving what we had said and promissing to pursue the advice.
Mar to ree 2d Cheif (White Crain) [White Crane] rose and
made a Short Speech and refured
to the great Chief Par nar
ne arpar be (struck by
the Pania) 3rd. Chief rose and made a
short speech Ar ea we char che (the half man) 3rd.
Chief rose
& Spoke at some length much to the [same] purpose.[12]
The
other Cheif said but little One of the Warriers
Spoke after
all was don & promissed to Support the Cheifs, the[y]
promisd to go and See their Great father in the Spring
with
Mr. Dorion, and to do all things we had advised
them to do.
and all concluded by telling the distresses of their nation by
not haveing traders, & wished us to take pity on them, the[y]
wanted Powder Ball, & a little Milk [rum; milk of
great father
means spirits.]
last night the Indians Danced
untill late in their Dances
we gave them [throw into them as is usual] Som Knives Tobacco
&
bells & tape & Binding with which they wer Satisfied.[13]
We gave a
Certificate to two Men of War, attendants on
the Chief, gave to all the
Chiefs a Carrot of Tobacco. had
a talk with Mr. Dorion, who agreed to Stay
and Collect the
Chiefs from as Many Bands of Soux as he coud this fall
&
bring about a peace between the suoex and their neighbours
&c. &c. &c.
After Dinner we gave Mr. Peter Dorion, a
Commission to
act with a flag and some Cloathes & Provisions &
instructions
[Poncas—Ed.] Ottoes & Missouries, and to employ
any trader to take Some of the Cheifs of each or as many of
those nations as he Could Perticularly the Seuouex (down to
Washn) I took a Vocabulary of the Suoux Language, and the
Answer to a fiew quaries such a[s] refured to their Situation,
Trade, Number, War, &c. &c. This Nation is Divided into
20 Tribes, possessing Seperate interests. Collectively they
are noumerous say from 2 to 3000 men, their interests are so
unconnected that Some bands are at war with Nations [with]
which other bands are on the most friendly terms. This Great
Nation who the French has given the Nickname of Suouex,
Call themselves Dar co tar [Dakota—Ed.] their language
is not peculiarly their own, they Speak a great number of
words, which is the Same in every respect with the Maha,
Poncarer, Osarge & Kanzas. which clearly proves that those
nations at some period not more that a century or two past
are of the Same nation. Those Dar ca ter's or Suoux inhabit
or rove over the Countrey on the Red river of Lake Winipeck,
St. Peters & the West of the Missi[ss]-ippie, above Prarie De
Cheen (Prairie de Chien) heads of River Demoin, and the Missouri
and its waters on the N. Side for a great extent. they
are only at peace with 8 nations, & agreeable to their Calculation
at War with twenty odd. Their trade coms from the
British, except this Band and one on Demoin who trade with
the Traders of St Louis. The[y] furnish Beaver, Martain,
Loups, (Wolfs) Pekon, (pichou) Bear & Deer Skins, and have about 40 Traders among them. The Dar co tar or Suouez rove
& follow the Buffalow raise no corn or any thing else the woods
& praries affording a suff[i]cency, the[y] eat Meat, and Substitute
the Ground potato which grow in the Plains for bread.
Che cher ree Yankton (or bois ruley) (brulé) now present inhabit
the Suouex & Demoin Rivers and the Jacque. (200 men.)Ho in de borto (Poles) they live [rove] on the heads of Souex
and Jacques Rivers.Me Ma car jo (Make fence on the river) rove on the Country
near the big bend of the Missouries.Sou on, Te ton (People of the Prarie) the[y] rove in the Plains
N. of the Riv Missourie above this.Wau pa coo tar (Leaf Beds) the[y] live near the Prarie de
Chain Near the Missippi.Te Car ton (or Village of Prarie) rove on the waters of the
Mississippi above Prarie de Chain.Ne Was tar ton (big Waters Town) rove on the Missippi above
the St. Peters River.Wau pa tone (Leaf Nation) live 10 Leagues up St. Peters River.
Cas Carba (White Man) live 35 Leagues up St. Peters river.
Mi ca cu op si ba (Cut bank) rove on the head of St. Peters.
Sou on (—) rove on St. Peters river in the Praries.
Sou se toons (—) live 40 Leages up the St. Peters river.
The Names of the Defferent Tribes or bands of
the Sceoux,
or Dar co tar Nation.
1st
2nd.
3rd.
4th.
5th.
6th.
7th.
8th.
9th.
10th.
11th.
12th.
The names of the other
bands neither of the Souex's interpters
could inform me.[14]
in the evening late we gave Mr.
Dourion a bottle of whiskey, & he with the Cheifs & his Son
Crossed the river and Camped on the Opposit bank. Soon
after night a
violent wind from the N. W. with rain the rain
Continud the greater part
of the night. The river a riseing a
little.
For excellent description
and illustrations of these medals (first-grade), see
Wheeler, On the Trail of Lewis and Clark (N. Y., 1904), i, pp. 139,
140. Three
of the medals distributed by Lewis and Clark have since been
found—at the mouth
of Wallawalla River, at Fort Clatsop, and at
the mouth of Potlatch River, respectively.
—Ed.
Described by Biddle as "a
richly laced uniform of the United States artillery
corps, with a cocked
hat and red feather."—Ed.
The "society" of warriors
here described was one of the branches of "the military
and social organization which existed
among the Blackfeet, Sioux, Cheyenne,
Kiowa, and probably all the prairie
tribes except the Comanche in the South," according
to Mooney (U. S. Bur. Ethnol. Rep., 1892–93,
pp. 986–989), who describes
it as it existed among the Arapaho.
—Ed.
The Crows are a Hidatsa
tribe, allied to the Minitaree, and originally located
on the Yellowstone
River; in later years, they have been gathered on the Crow reservation
in Montana.—Ed.
That is, Cote Noir. "Our authors use
the term 'Black mountains' for any of
the elevated country to the west of
the Missouri in Northern Nebraska and both
Dakotas."—Coues (L. and C., i, p.
171).
The names of these chiefs are thus given by Biddle: Weucha ("Shake Hand;"
called by the French Le Libeateur); Mahtoree ("White Crane"); Pawnawneahpahbe
("Struck by the Pawnee");
and Aweawechache ("Half Man")—explained
as probably originating in
its owner's modesty, "who on being told of his exploits,
would say, 'I am
no warrior: I am only half a man.'" These speeches are given
by Biddle in
more detail.—Ed.
The entry for Aug. 31 to
this point is misplaced in the MS.; it is found on
pp. 58–60 of
Codex A, preceded by this memorandum: "omited to put in the 31st
of August
in Place."—Ed.
These tribes are
enumerated very differently by Biddle, thus (i, pp. 61, 62):
(1) Yanktons
—200 warriors; (2) Tetons of the burnt woods—300 men; (3) Tetons
Okandandas—150 men; (4) Tetons Minnakenozzo—250 men; (5)
Tetons Saone—
300 men; (6) Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils
—500 men; (7) Wahpatone—
200 men; (8) Mindawarcarton—
300 men; (9) Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds—150
men; (10) Sistasoone
—200 men. Cf. Lewis's "Statistical View of the Indian
Nations
Inhabiting the Territory of Louisiana," accompanying Jefferson's Message to
Congress, Feb. 19, 1806 (Washington, 1806);
the substance of this "View" will
be republished in the appendix to the
present work. For modern scientific classification,
see Powell's "Indian
Linguistic Families," in U. S. Bur. Ethnol. Rep.,
1885–
86, pp. 111–118. Cf. Wis. Hist.
Collections, xvi, pp. 193, 194.—Ed.
September 1st Satturday 1804—
Mr. Dourion lift his Kittle & Sent back for it &c. we Set
out under a jentle Breeze from the S. (It rained half the last
night) proceeded on pass the Bluffs compsd. of a
yellowish
red, & Brownish (&) White Clay which is a[s] hard as
Chalk
(and much resembling it) this Bluff is 170 or
180 feet high,
on the S. S. not so high as that on the L. S. opposit the
Bluffs is Situated a Large Island Covered with timber close
under the L. S. above the Isd. the high land approach & form
a Clift to the river on the S. S. this Clift is Called White
Bear Clift one of those animals haveing been kiled in a whole
in it.
1st of September Satturday 1804—
Some hard wind and rain, cloudy all day,
the river Wide
& hills on each Side near the river, passd a large (1) Island
which appeared to be composed of
Sand, Covered with Cotton
wood close under the S. S. we landed at the
lower point of a
large Island on the S. S. Called bon
homme or Good Man, here
Cap. Lewis & my
self went out a Short distance on the L. S.
to See a Beaver house, which
was Said to be of Great hite &
Situated in a Pond We could not find
the house and returned
after night Drewyer Killed an Elk, & a Beaver.
numbers of
Cat fish cought, those fish is so plenty that we catch them at
any time and place in the river.
N. 88 W. | 4 | Mls. to a high point of on
the S. S. haveing passd an 1sd. (1) on the L. S. & Several Sand bars. |
S. 75°. W. | 2 | Mls. to the lower pt. of a large Island on S. S. passed a pt. on the L. S. and a Sand bar. |
S. 68°. W. | 4 | Mls. to a pt. on L. S. passd. the upper pt. of the Isld. SS. and some land with bows [boughs—Ed.] and evident marks of being made 24 [feet—Ed.] above water. |
S. 80. W. | 5 | Mls. to a tree at the lower
pt. of Bon homme Island on S. S. haveing psd. a pt. on the S. S. a Deep bend of Sand and Willows on L. S. |
16 |
2nd September Sunday 1804.—
Set out early and proceeded on passed the Island and Landed
on the S. S. above under a Yellow Clay bluff of 110 feet high,
the wind blew verry hard ahead from the N. W. with Some
rain and verry cold, G. Drewnyer R. Fields, Newman &
howard Killed four fine Elk we had the meat all
jurked and
Bluff I observed Bear Grass & Rhue, at Sun Set the wind
luled and cleared up Cold, the high land on the L. S. is verry
high, & uneaven, that on the S. S. from 80 to 120 foot & is
leavel back but fiew Small Streams falling into the river.
N. 75° W. | 3 | Mls. to the lower part of an
antient fortification (1) in a bend to the L. S. this Course passed over a pt. of the Isd & Sand. |
N. 45 W. | 1 | Mls. on the L. pt. passd
the head of the Island at 3/4 of a mile opsd. a yellow bank S. S. |
4 |
I
went out and made a Survey of the antient Works which
is Situated in a
level Plain about 3 Miles from the hills which
are
high.
(1) Commenceing on the river opsi'd the Good Mans Island, first Course from the river is |
||
S. 76°. W. | 96 | yards thence |
S. 84. W. | 53 | yards (at this angle a kind of angle or horn work) |
N. 69 W. | 300 | yards to a high part, passing the gateway
Covered by two half Circler works one back of the other lower than the main work the Gate forms a right angle projecting inward. |
N. 32 W. | 56 | yards |
N. 20 W. | 73 | yards. This part of the work appears to have
[been] either double, or a covered way. from this Some irregular works appear to have been on mounds between this and the river, with a Deep round whole in the center of a Gorge formed by another angle. This part of the work is from 10 to 15 feet 8 Inches—the Mounds of Various hights the base of the work is from 75 to 105 feet, Steep inward and forming a kind of Glassee [Glacis] outwards. |
578 | ||
N. 32°. W. | 96 | yards to the Commencement of
a Wall from 8 to 10 feet high this Course not on the Wall but thro to the commencement of another detached |
N. 81°. W. | 1830 | yards to the river & above where this bank
Strikes the river is the remains of a Circular work. |
in this Course at 533 yards a Deep Pond of 73 yards
Diameter perfectly
round is in the Course of
the bank which is about 8 feet high,
from this Pond the bank lowers
gradually. a bank about the same
hight runs near the river, and must have
joined the main work at a part
which is now washed into the river, this is
also perfectly Streight and
widens from the main work, as the river above
has washed in its banks
for a great distance I cannot form an Idear How
those two long works
joined. where they Strike the river above, they are
about 1100 yds apart,
a Wall of the Antient Work Commencing on the bank of the
River and running on a direct line S. 76° W. 96 yard, about
75 feet baice and 8 feet high.Wall Continued, and Course S. 84°. W. 53 yards from an
angle formed by a slopeing decent No. 13. has the appearance
of a hornwork of nearly the same hight of the former angle
No. 1.the Wall Continued on a Course N. 69°. W. for 300 yards in
which there is a low part of the wall which is Covered by two
Circular and lower Walls one back of the other. 8. 8. which
covers the gate way Completely, between those outer Walls
8. 8. there appears to have been a Covered way out of the
Main work into the vacancy between those two Walls No. 9.
This Wall No. 3 is 8 feet high and about 75 feet Bace.a Wide part of the Wall which is about 12 feet high and 105
feet base on the Course N. 69°. W. Continued from the gate
way.The Wall about 15 feet high and about 90 feet bace on a
course N. 32° W. for 56 yds.the Wall Continus on a Course N. 20°. W. for 73 yards and
ends abruptly near a whole near Several Mounds prismiscusly
in the Gorge of the Work between this and the river.N. 32°. W. 96 yards across a low place much lower than the
Common leavel of the plain to the Commencement of a wall of
8 feet high this is an open Space, from whence there is Some
appearance of a Covered way to the Water.is a large hollow place much lower then the plain
12. Several little Mounds in the gouge
the gateway to the Strong work.
a redoubt Situated on an Island which is makeing on the Side
next to the Main Work, the wall forming this redoubt is 6 feet
high15. The river banks at the waters edge
a thick Wall of about 6 feet high passing from the Rivers edge
at the gouge of the Work perfectly streight to the bend of the
River above and there ends abruptly where the Missouri is
under mineing its banks on this Wall maney large Cotton
Trees of two & 3 feet diameter, the Bank passes thro'a wood
in its whole Course19. a Streight wall of 1830 yard extending from the Gouge of
the strong work on a Course N. 81° W. This wall is 8 feet
high to a round pon (No. 18) from then it becoms lower and
strikes the Missouri at a place where that river has the aplc. [appearance]
of haveing incroached on its banks for a great distance.
this wall passes in it's whole course thro' a leavel plain.a Deep pond of 73 yards diameter in the Wall, perfectly
roundThro from the extremity of one Wall to the other 1100
yards.a Small redoubt on the bank of the river.
[Another Description.[15] ]
No. 1
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
10.
10.
12.
7.
14.
15.
16.
No. 17.
18.
20.
21.
The Strong part of this work which must be about 2/3 of
it's original
Size Contains Twenty acres.
The part Contained
between the two Walls is about 500 acres, and
it is Certain that those
Walls have been longer and must have contained
a much greater Space
I am informed by our french interpeters that a
great number
of those antient works are in Defferent parts of the
Countrey,
on the Plate River, Kansas, Jacque, Osarge, Mine river &c.
A Small one is on [an] Island opposit the one I have
Discribed, and
two of our Party Saw two of those Antient
f[o]rtresses on the Petteet Arc Creek on the upper Side near
the Mouth, each angle
of which were 100 yards and about 8
feet high.[16]
The opinion now prevails,
that these "fortifications" were only natural formations,
made by the drifting sands.—
Ed.
3rd. of September Monday 1804.—
a verry Cold morning wind from N. W. we Set out at Sun
rise, & proceeded on to a Bluff below the Mouth of Plumb
Creek
[12 yds] on the S. S. and took an obsevation of the
Suns altitude.
This Creek is Small it "abounds with plumbs of a
Delicious
flavour" the River is Wide and Crowded with Sand bars.
it
is riseing a little but little timber in this Countrey all that
is, is on
the river in the Points. we came too on the L. S. in
the edge of a Plain
an[d] Camped for the night, we Saw
Some signs of the two men Shannon &
Colter, Shannon appeared
to be ahead of
Colter. The White banks appear to
continue on both sides of the river.
Grapes plenty and finely
flavered.
West | 1/2 | Ml. on the L. S. opsd. a Bluff |
S. 35 W. | 3 | Mls. to the Upper point of some wood at the foot of the high land on the L. S. in a bend of the river pass a large Sand bar 400 yds. wide on the L. S. and a pt. & Sand bar from the S. S. |
West | 5 1/2 | Mls. to a objt. in a Deep bend to the S. S.
passd. a pt. S. S. and a large Sand bar on the L. S. |
S. 45. W. | 1 | Ml. the to Mouth of Plumb
Cr. on the S. S. psd. undr. White bank. |
South | 5 | Mls. to a pt. on the S. S. passd. Several Sand bars & two pts. on the L. S. |
15 |
4th September Tuesday 1804.—
a verry Cold Wind from the S. S. E. we Set out early and
proceeded on [to] the Mouth of a Small Creek in a bend to
the L. S.
Called White lime, at 1 1/2 Miles higher up passed a
large Creek on the L.
S. Called R. au Platte or White
Paint[17]
between those two Creeks (the latter of which is abt.
30 yds.
Wide) we passed under a Bluff of red Ceeder,
at 4 Mls.. 1/2
passed the mouth of the River Que Courre (rapid R) on the
L.
S. and Came to a Short distance above, this River is 152
like the Platt, (only Corser) forming bars in its mouth. I
went up this river three Miles to a butifull Plain on the upper
Side where the Panias once had a Village this River widens
above its mouth and is divided by sands and Islands, the
Current verry rapid, not navagable for evin Canoes without
Great dificuelty owing to its Sands; the colour like that of
the Plat is light, the heads of this river is not known [in the
Black Mountns & waters a hilly country of indifferent soil] it
coms into the Missourie from the S. W. by West, and I am
told that i[t]s Gen1. Course Some distance up is parrelel with
the Missourie.
S. 5°. W. | 1 1/2 | Ml. to the Mo. of a Creek on the L. S.
below a Ceeder Clift. |
S. 35°. | 1 1/2 | Mls. to the Mo. of White Paint River on the
L. S. Passing under a Ceeder Clift. |
West | 3 | Mls. to the Upper pt. of Wood on the L. S.
opsd. a Bluff of bluish Clay, a Sd. bar L. S. |
N. 72° W. | 1 1/4 | Mls. to a Mound on the L.
S. a Bluff on the S. S. several Sand bars in the river |
West | 3/4 | Ml. to the Mouth of the river Que Courre
on the L. S. the hills leave the river on the S. S. river Crouded with Sand bars, & wind hard. |
8 |
[At the end of Codex B, written on the inside of the cover,
is the
following memorandum:]
$ | |
John Potts as p[er Duebill | 20.5 |
Thos. P. Howard | 8.10 |
Alexander Willard | 13.55 |
☞after
this I will put the Course Destance & refferences of
each day first and remks. after.
N. 85°. W. | 2 | Mls. to a Willow pt. on the S. S. a Bluff opsd. |
N. 35°. W. | 3 | Mls. to a high part of a
Bluff on the S. S. a large Isld. Called Pania Isd. in Middle of the river. |
N. 58° W. | 3 1/2 | to a Creek on the S. S. psd. the Isd at 1 Ml. a
Sand bar makeing from it. Poncarar [Ponca] River opposit on the L. S. 30 yds. |
West | 3 1/2 | Mls. to the Lower point of a large Island
near the L. Side (1) |
N. 70°. W. | 1 3/4 | Mls. to the right Side of
the Sd. Island to the head passed a Willow Isd. & a Sand bar |
13 3/4 |
September 5th. Wednesday 1804—
Set out early the
wind blew hard from the South, Goats,
turkeys Seen today, passed a large
Island (1) opsd. this
Island near the head the
Poncarars River Coms into the Missourie
from
the West this river is about 30 yards wide. dispatched
two men to the Poncaries Village
Situated in a
handsom Plain on the lower Side of this Creek about two
miles from the Missourie the Poncarars Nations is Small[18]
and at this
time out in the praries hunting the Buffalow, one
of the men Sent to the
Village Killed a Buffalow in the town,
the other, a large Buck near it,
Some Sign of the two men
who is a head, above the Island on the S. S. we
passed under
a Bluff[19]
of Blue earth, under which Several Mineral Springs
broke out the water of which had a taste like Salts, We
Came too on the upper point of a large Island
(which I call
No preserves Island) here we made a
Ceeder Mast, our
hunters brought in three bucks, and two elks this evening
which we had jurked.
One of the hunters Shields, informed that he
Saw Several
black tailed Deer, near the Poncarer Village
West | 1 1/2 | Mls. to a pt. of Wood on the S. S. opposit a Bluff. |
N. 85° W. | 7 | Mls. passed a pt. on the S. S. at 1 1/2 Mls. above which is a large Sand bar on L. S. a high Clift of Blue & redish soft rock, Colter joined us. |
miles | 8 1/2 |
The Biddle text states
(i, p. 66) that this Ponca tribe, which had once numbered
400 men, was then reduced to about fifty,
who had taken refuge with the
Omaha. Both tribes had been sedentary, but
were driven from their villages by
war and pestilence.—Ed.
Sept. 6th. Thursday 1804.—
a Storm this
morning from the N. W. which lasted a fiew
minits, we Set out and
proceeded on passed the head of the
Isd. which is
Seperated from the L. S. by a narrow Channel, a
hard wind from the N. W. a
Verry Cold day. we camped on
the S. S. at the upper point of Some timber,
Sometime before
Night, no timber, [being in
reach.]
I saw Several goats[20]
on the hills on
the S. S. also Buffalow
in great numbers.
N. 60° W. | 3 | Mls. to the pt. of a Bluff on the S. S. opsd. a pt. on L. S. |
West | 2 1/2 | Miles to a tree in a bend to the L. S. near the foot of a round mountain resembling a Cupola (1) passed 2 Small Islds. S. S. |
5 1/2 |
These "goats" were
antelopes (Antilocapra Americana). This animal was
new to science when discovered by Lewis and Clark in 1804, and was not
technically
named until 1815.—Coues (L. and C., i, p.
109).
Sept. 7th. Friday —
a verry Cold morning wind S. E. Set out at day light we
landed after proceeding 5 1/2 Miles, near the foot of a round
Mounting, which I saw yesterday, resembling a dome.[21]
Cap.
Lewis
& Myself walked up to the top which forms a Cone and
is about 70 feet
higher than the high lands around it, the Base
is about 300 foot in
decending this Cupola, discovered a Village
of
Small animals that burrow in the grown (those animals
are Called by the
french Petite Chien) Killed one and Caught
one a live by poreing a great
quantity of Water in his hole[22]
we attempted to dig to the beds of one of those
animals, after
half way to his Lodge, we found 2 frogs in the hole, and
Killed a Dark rattle Snake near with a Ground rat (or prairie
dog) in him, (those rats are numerous) the Village of those
animals Covd. about 4 acres of Ground on a gradual decent of
a hill and Contains great numbers of holes on the top of which
those little animals Set erect make a Whistleing noise and whin
allarmed Step into their hole, we por'd into one of the holes
5 barrels of Water without filling it. Those Animals are about
the Size of a Small Squ[ir]rel Shorter (or longer) & thicker, the
head much resembling a Squirel in every respect, except the
ears which is Shorter, his tail like a ground squirel which they
shake & whistle when allarmd. the toe nails long, they have
fine fur & the longer hairs is gray[23] , it is Said that a kind of
Lizard also a Snake reside with those animals. (did not find
this correct.) Camped.
N. 35. W. | 7 | Mls. to a pt. on L. S. opsd. the house of Mr. Troodo where he wintered in 96 & Seven Called the Pania hos. in a woo[d] to the S. S. (1) |
N. 88° W. | 10 | Mls. to a pt. of woods S. S. one mile above
the commencement of this Course the Lowr pt. of a Willow Isld. this Isld. is 1 1/4 Mls. in length, in the middle of the R. a Small Sand Isd. at its upper extremity. |
17 |
Gass says (p. 51) regarding this attempt, that "all the party,
except the guard,
went to it; and took with them all the Kettles and other
vessels for holding water; but
though they worked at the business till
night, they only caught one of them."—Ed.
The prairie-dog (Cynomys ludovicianus),
then unknown to scientists; Cones
thinks that Clark and Gass were the
first to describe it.—Ed.
8th. of September Satturday—
Set out early
and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from
the S. E. at 3 Mls. passed the house of Troodo where he wintered
in 96. Called the Pania house, above is
high hills on
the S. S. on the S. S. much higher hills than useal appear
to
the North distant 8 Miles recently burnt, pass 3 Small Islands
at
about 5 Miles on this Course on the S. S. here Cap. Lewis
Killed a
Buffalow in the river, and the Men one other Came
to on the lower point of
an Island in the midlle of the river
Called Boat Island[24]
and incamped,
jurked the meat Killed
Small, 4 Deer 3 Turkeys & a Squirel, I joined the boat at
this Camp, the Countrey on the S. S. is pore & broken.
N. 34° W. | 3 | Mls. to apt on an Island on the L. S. of an Isd.
passed Sand bars. |
N. 40. W. | 3 | Mls. to an upper pt. of a Wood in a bend S. S. |
N. 83°. W. | 4 1/4 | Mls. to a pt. on S. S. |
N. 44°. W. | 4 | Mls. to the upper pt. of a Wood L. S. |
14 1/4 |
9th. September Sunday 1804—
Set out at Sunrise and proceeded
on passed the head of the
Island on which we Camped, passed three Sand
& Willow
Islands, the Sand bars So noumerous, it is not worth mentioning
them, the river Shoal or Shallow wind
S. E. Came too
and Camped on a Sand bar on the L. S. Capt. Lewis went
out to kill a buffalow. I walked on Shore all this evening
with a
view to Kill a goat or Some Prarie Dogs in the evening
after the boat landed, I Derected My Servent
York with
me to kill a Buffalow near the boat from a Numbr. then Scattered
in the
Plains. I saw at one view near the river at least
500 Buffalow, those
animals have been in View all day feeding
in the Plains on the L. S. every
Copse of timber appear to
have Elk or Deer. D. Killed 3 Deer, I Kiled a
Buffalow
Y. 2, R. Fields one.
North | 5 | Mls. to a Sand. Isd.
undr. a Bluff to the S. S. passed Isd. on L. S. |
N. 65°. W. | 2 | Ml. to a pt. on the L. S. passd. the Isd. on the L. S. |
N. 80°. W. | 1/2 | Ml. on the L. S. |
S. 80 W. | 3 | Mls. to Ceder Island in the Middle of the R. found a fish back bone pitrefied also the hd. just below the Isd. on the top of a hill Situated on the L. S. |
N. 70°. W. | 8 1/2 | Mls. to the Lowr. pt. of
an Isd. in a bend to the L. S. pass the hd. of Ceeder Island (2) and a large Isd. on the S. S. (3) & Many Sand bars. Shallow. |
N. 35. W. | 1 | Ml. to the Lower pt. of a Small Island seperated by a Narrow Channel. |
20 |
10th. September Monday 1804—
a cloudy dark
morning Set out early, a gentle breeze from
the S. E. passed two Small
Islands on the L. S. and one on
the S. S. all in the first Course at 10
1/2 Miles passed the lower
point of an (2) Island Covered with red Ceeder
Situated in a
bend on the L. S. this Island is about 2 Miles in length (1)
below this on a hill on the L. S. we found the back bone of a
fish,
45 feet long tapering to the tale, Some teeth &c. those
joints were
Seperated and all Petrefied. opposit this Island
1 1/2 Miles from the
river on the L. S. is a large Salt Spring of
remarkable Salt Water. one
other high up the hill 1/2 Ml. not
So Salt. we
proceeded on under a Stiff Breeze. three Miles
above Ceder Island passed a
large Island on the S. S. no water
on that Side. (3) Several elk Swam to
this Island passed
a Small Island near the center of the river, of a Mile
in length,
and Camped on one above Seperated from the other by a Narrow
Chanel, those Islands are Called Mud Islands.
the
hunters killed 3 Buffalow & one Elk to day. The river is
falling a little. Great number of Buffalow & Elk on the hill
Side feeding deer scerce
N. 35°. W. | 4 1/2 | Mls. to the lower pt.
of an Island, passed the Isd. on which we Campd. |
N. 70°. W. | 2 | Mls. to the head of the Island on its L. S. |
N. 45°. W. | 3 | Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. below an Island (1) |
N. 50°. W. | 2 | Mls. to the Upper
pt. of an Island on the S. S.; passed one on the L. S. opsd. to which at 1/4 of a Mile is a Village of the Barking Squirel L. S. |
West | 4 1/2 | Mls. to a pt. on the L.
S. passed an Isd. on the S. S. just above the one mentioned in the last Course. |
16 |
Sept. 11th. Tuesday 1804—
A cloudy morning, Set out verry early, the river wide
&
Shallow the bottom narrow, & the river crouded with Sand
bars, passed the Island on which we lay at one mile, Passed
three
Islands one on the L. S. and 2 on the S. S. opposit the
Island on the L.
S. I saw a Village of Barking Squirel
on a jentle Slope of a hill, those anamals are noumerous, I
killed 4 with a View to have their Skins Stufed.
here the Man who left us with the
horses 22 (16) days ago
George
Shannon He started 26 Augt.) and has been a head ever
since joined us nearly Starved to Death, he had been 12 days
without
any thing to eate but Grapes & one Rabit, which he
Killed by shooting
a piece of hard Stick in place of a ball.
This Man Supposeing the boat to
be a head pushed on as long
as he could, when he became weak and feable
deturmined to
lay by and waite for a tradeing boat, which is expected,
Keeping
one horse for the last resorse, thus a man had like to have
Starved to death in a land of Plenty for the want of Bullitts or
Something to kill his meat. we Camped on the L. S. above
the mouth
of a run a hard rain all the afternoon, & most
of the night, with hard
wind from the N. W. I walked on
Shore the forepart of this day over Some
broken Country
which Continues about 3 Miles back & then is leavel
& rich
all Plains, I saw Several foxes & Killed a Elk & 2 Deer
&
Squirels. the men with me killed an Elk, 2 Deer & a
Pelican
N. 45°. W. | 4 | Miles to a point of wood on the L. S. Passed an
Island in the Center of the river and several Sand bars (1) on which we found great dificuelty in passing the Water being verry Shallow |
4 |
Sept. 12th. Wednesday 1804—
A Dark Cloudy Day the wind hard from the N. W. We
Passed (1) a Island in the middle of the river at the head of
which
we found great dificuelty in passing between the Sand
bars the Water Swift
and Shallow, it took 3/4 of the day to
make one mile, we Camped on the L.
S. opsd. a Village of
Barking Prarie Squirels
I
walked out in the morn:g and Saw Several Villages of
those little animals,
also a great number of Grous & 3 Foxes,
and observed Slate & Coal
Mixed, Some verry high hills on
each Side of the river. rain a little all
day.
N. 45°. E. | 1 1/2 | Mls. on the L. S. a Sand bar Makeing out. |
N. 30°. E. | 1 | Ml. on the L. Side. |
N. 60°. W. | 1 | Ml. on the L. S. to a Clift. |
N. 64°. W. | 2 3/4 | Mls. on the L. S. to the Commencement of a
wood passing under a Bluff of Slate & Coal, & a Sand bar opposit. |
North | 1 3/4 | Mls. to a pt. of high Land on the S. S.
passd. Sand bars on both Sides, Shallow |
N. 10°. W. | 4 | Mls. to the lower pt. of a timber passing under a Bluff, a Sand & Willow Island on the L. S. |
12 |
13th. Septr. Thursday 1804—
A Dark drizzley Day, G. D. Cought 4 Beaver last night
the wind from the NW. Cold Set out early and proceeded
on verry
well, passed a number of Sand bars, Capt. Lewis
Killed
a Porcupin on a Cotton tree feeding on the leaves &
bowers [boughs
—[Ed.] of the said tree, the water is verry
Shallow (in places) being Crowded with Sand bars
Camped
on the S. Side under a Bluff. the Bluff on the S. S. not so
much impregnated with mineral as on the L. S. Muskeetors
verry
troublesom.
N. 68°. W. | 2 3/4 | Mls. to a pt. of high Land on the L. S. passd. a round Island on the S. S. |
S. 70°. W. | 2 1/2 | Mls. to a tree in the
pt. on the L. S. passed the Mo. of a run on the L. S. |
N. 4°. W. | 2 1/2 | Mls. to the mouth of a Small Creek[25]
on the bend to the L. S. |
N. 10° E. | 1 1/4 | Mls. to to the Mouth of a Creek on the L.
S. passed a bad Sand bar. |
9 |
14th. Sept. Friday 1804.—
Set out early proceeded on Passed several Sand bars the
river
wide and Shallow. 3 beaver caught last night, Drizeley
rain in the
forepart of the day, Cloudy and disagreeable. I
to be in this neighbourhood by Mr. J. McKey of St. Charles.
I walked on Shore the whole day without Seeing any appearance
of the Vulcanoe, in my walk I Killed a Buck Goat
[antelope—Ed.] of this Countrey, about the hight of the
Grown Deer, its body Shorter the Horns which is not very
hard and forks 2/3 up one prong Short the other round &
Sharp arched, and is imediately above its Eyes the Colour is
a light gray with black behind its ears down its neck, and its
face white round its neck, its Sides and its rump round its tail
which is Short & white: Verry actively made, has only a
pair of hoofs to each foot, his brains on the back of his head,
his Norstrals large, his eyes like a Sheep he is more like the
Antilope or Gazella of Africa than any other Species of Goat.
Shields killed a Hare like the mountain hare of Europe, waighing
6 1/4 pounds (altho pore) his head narrow, its ears large i, e.
6 Inches long & 3 Inches Wide one half of each White, the
other & out part a lead Grey from the toe of the hind foot
to toe of the for foot is 2 feet 11 Inches, the hith is 1 foot 1
Inch & 3/4, his tail long thick & white.[26]
The rain
Continued the Greater part of the day in My
ramble I observed, that all
those parts of the hills which was
clear of Grass easily disolved and
washed into the river and
bottoms, and those hils under which the river
runs, Sliped
into it and disolves and mixes with the water of the river,
the
bottoms of the river was covered with the water and mud
frome
the hills about three Inches deep, those bottoms under
the hils which is
covered with Grass, also receives a great
quantity of mud.
Passed 2
Small Creeks on the L. S. and Camped below
the third, (the place that
Shannon the man who went a head lived
on grapes) Som heavy Showers of rain
all wet, had the
Goat & rabit Stufed rained all night.
N. 50°. E. | 2 | Mls. to the pt. Mouth of White River (1) L. S. passed Sand bars, &c. |
N. 26°. E. | 1 1/2 | Mls. to a pt. on the L. S. a Bluff on the S. S. |
N. 10°. W. | 1/2 | Mls. on the L. S. to the Commencement of a Bluff of black Slate |
N. 30°. W. | 2 | Mls. to the lower pt. of an Island Situated
near the L Side (2) |
North | 2 | Miles to the
Mouth of a Creek on the L. S. a point of high land opposit under which we camped. |
8 |
15th. September Satturday 1804—
Set out early passed the mo. of
the Creek, and the mouth
of White river. (1) Cap. Lewis and my self went
up this
river a Short distance and crossed, found that this differed
verry much from the Plat or que courre, threw out but little
Sand,
about 300 yards wide, the water confind. within 150
yards, the current regular & Swift much resembling the
Missourie, with Sand bars from the Points, a Sand Island in
the
mouth, in the point is a butifull Situation for a Town 3
gradual assents,
and a much greater quantity of timber about
the mouth of this river than
useal, we concluded to send
Some distance up this river detached Sjt. Gass & R. Fields.
We proceeded on passed a Small
(2) Island Covered with
Ceeders on [it] I saw great Numbers of Rabits
& Grapes,
this Island is Small & Seperated from a large Sand Isd. at its
upper point by a narrow Channel, & is
Situated Nearest the
L. Side. Camped on the S. S. opposit the mouth of a
large
Creek on which there is more timber than is useal on Creeks
of
this Size, this Creek raised 14 feet the last rains. I killed a
Buck Elk
& Deer, this evening is verry Cold, Great Many
Wolves of Diffrent
sorts howling about us. the wind is hard
from the NW. this
evening.
N. 72°. E. | 1 1/4 | Miles to a pt. on the L. S. and came too (1) |
16th. of September Sunday 1804—
We Set out verry early &
proceed'd on 1 1/4 Miles between
Sand bars and Came too on the L. S. (1)
deturmoned to dry
our wet thi[n]gs and liten the boat which we found Could
not
proceed with the present load [as fast as we desired
owing to
Sand bars] for this purpose we concluded to detain the
Perogue we had intended to send back & load her out of
the boat
& detain the Soldiers untill Spring & Send them
from our Winter
quarters. We put out those articls which
was wet, Chan'd the boat &
perogues, examined all the
Lockers Bails &c &c &c.
This
Camp is Situated in a butifull Plain Serounded with
Timber to the extent
of 3/4 of a mile in which there is great
quantities of fine Plumbs The two
men detachd. up the
White river joined us here &
informed that the [river] as far
as they were up had much the appearance
of the Missuorie
Som Islands & Sands little Timber, [Elm] (much Signs of
Beaver, Great many buffalow) &
Continud its width, they
Saw as well as my self Pine burs & Sticks of Birch in the
Drift wood up this
river, they Saw also Number of Goats,
Such as I Killed, also Wolves near
the Buffalow. falling
[fallow] Deer, & the Barking Squrils Villages.
Cap. Lewis
went to hunt & See the Countrey near the Kamp he Killed
a Buffalow & a Deer
Cloudy all day I partly load the empty
Perogue out of the
Boat. I killed 2 Deer & the party 4 Deer & a
Buffalow
this we Kill for the Skins to Cover the Perogues, the meat too
pore to eat. Cap. Lewis went on an Island above our Camp,
this
Island is abt. one mile long, with a great perpotion Ceder
timber near the middle of it.
I gave out a flannel Shirt to each
man, & powder to those
who had expended thers.
Chapter III Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | ||