University of Virginia Library

Thursday July 3rd. 1806.

All arrangements being now compleated for carrying into
effect the several scheemes we had planed for execution on our
return, we saddled our horses and set out I took leave of my
worthy friend and companion Capt. Clark and the party that
accompanyed him. I could not avoid feeling much concern
on this occasion although I hoped this seperation was only
momentary. I proceeded down Clark's river seven miles with
my party of nine men and five indians. here the Indians
recommended our passing the river which was rapid and 150
yds. wide. 2 miles above this place I passed the entrance of the
East branch of Clark's River which discharges itself by two


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channels; the water of this river is more terbid than the main
stream and is from 90 to 120 yds. wide. as we had no other
means of passing the river we busied ourselves collecting dry
timber for the purpose of constructing rafts; timber being
scarce we found considerable difficulty in procuring as much as
made three small rafts. we arrived at 11 A. M. and had our
rafts completed by 3 P. M. when we dined and began to take
over our baggage which we effected in the course of 3 hours
the rafts being obliged to return several times. the Indians
swam over their horses and drew over their baggage in little
basons of deer skins which they constructed in a very few
minutes for that purpose. we drove our horses in after them
and they followed to the opposite shore. I remained myself
with two men who could scarcely swim untill the last; by this
time the raft by passing so frequently had fallen a considerable
distance down the river to a rapid and difficult part of it
crouded with several small Islands and willow bars which were
now overflown; with these men I set out on the raft and was
soon hurried down with the current a mile and a half before
we made shore, on our approach to the shore the raft sunk
and I was drawn off the raft by a bush and swam on shore the
two men remained on the raft and fortunately effected a landing
at some little distance below. I wet the chronometer by
this accedent which I had placed in my fob as I conceived for
greater security. I now joined the party and we proceeded
with the indians about 3 Ms. to a small Creek and encamped at
sunset.[2] I sent out the hunters who soon returned with three
very fine deer of which I gave the indians half. These people
now informed me that the road which they shewed me at no
great distance from our Camp would lead us up the East
branch of Clark's river and [to] a river they called Cokahlarishkit
or the river of the road to buffaloe and thence to medicine
river and the falls of the Missouri where we wished to go.


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illustration

MS. page by Lewis, July 3, 1806.



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they alledged that as the road was a well beaten track we could
not now miss our way and as they were affraid of meeting with
their enimies the Minnetares they could not think of continuing
with us any longer, that they wished now to proceed down
Clark's river in surch of their friends the Shalees. they informed
us that not far from the dividing ridge between the
waters of this and the Missouri rivers the roads forked they
recommended the left hand as the best rout but said they
would both lead us to the falls of the Missouri.[3] I directed
the hunters to turn out early in the morning and indeavour to
kill some more meat for these people whom I was unwilling
to leave without giving them a good supply of provision after
their having been so obliging as to conduct us through those
tremendious mountains. the musquetoes were so excessively
troublesome this evening that we were obliged to kindle large
fires for our horses these insects torture them in such manner
untill they placed themselves in the smoke of the fires that I
realy thought they would become frantic. about an hour after
dark the air become so coald that the musquetoes disappeared.

July 3rd Courses and distances from travellers rest [first draught].

   
North  7 M.  to the crossing of Clarke's river, valley wide tops
of the hills covered with Long leaf pine. bottoms
pine and Cottonwood. passed a small branch at
3 M on W. side and at 1 M. further the entrance
of a small creek on E. side. at 5 miles Co-kah-lár-coosh
or buffaloe river falls in on the East side.
Clark river 120 yds. wide buffaloe river [blank
space in MS.] yard wide set out at 8 A. M.
halted at 11 A. M. to make a raft dined here.
 
N. 75 E.  7 M.  through a handsome level plain to the point where
the Cokahlarishkit River enters the mountains, or
where the hills close it in on both sides. we halted
five mile short of this place on a little stream
where we encamped.
 

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Courses and distances July 3rd. 1806

   
North  7. M.  down the West side of Clark's river to the place at
which we passed it. forded travelers rest C. 1/2 a
mile below our camp, passed a branch on west side
at 2-l/2 M. further also at 1 M. further passed the
entrance of a small creek on the E side of Clark's
river, and two miles short of the extremity of this
course passed the entrance of the East branch
of Clark's river which discharges itself in two
channels. Clark's river 150 yds. wide the East
branch from 90 to 120. the vally of Clark's river
is extensive beatifull level plains and praries. the
tops of the hills and mountains on either hand are
covered with long leafed pine larch and fir; near
the river the bottoms are timbered with long leafed
pine and cottonwood.
 
N. 75
Ms
E. 7. M./14  through a handsom level plain to the point at which
the East branch enters the mountains or where the
hills set in near it on either side. we halted and
encamped on a small creek 5 miles short of the
extremity of this course. a Creek 15 yds. wide falls
into the E. branch on it's N. side one mile short
of the mountain.
 

We saw the fresh track of a horse this evening in the road
near our camp which the indians supposed to be a Shale spye.
we killed a prarie hen with the short and pointed tail she had
a number of young which could just fly.

 
[2]

After leaving their camp, Lewis and his men proceeded down the west side of
the Bitter Root River; at the end of five miles, they reached the confluence of that
stream with the Hellgate River, their united waters forming the Missoula. Two miles
below that point, they crossed the Missoula; then proceeding up its left bank and
that of the Hellgate, they encamped at Grant Creek.—Ed.

[3]

That is, the expedition was to follow the Cokahlarishkit River (now the Big
Blackfoot) until the road led over the main ridge of the Rockies by two passes—the
Cadotte, to the south, and the Lewis and Clark, which was attained by following the
more northern or left hand branch.—Ed.