University of Virginia Library

[Clark:]

May 21st. 1804 Monday

All the forepart of the Day arranging our party and procureing
the different articles necessary for them at this place.
Dined with Mr. Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock
under three Cheers from the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded
on to the head of the Island (which is Situated on the
Stbd. Side) 3 Miles Soon after we Set out to day a hard
Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which
lasted with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a
Small creek coms in on the Lbd Side.


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Course & Distance 21st of May

       
S. 15°. W  - 1 - 3/4 -  To bilge of Isd.[18]  
N 52° W  - 1 - 1/2 -  TP Upper Pt. of Isd. Std. Sd 
3 - 1/4 
 
[18]

Apparently meaning the "bulge" or projection of St. Charles Island to the
south. Most of the camping-sites of the expedition, and other localities named, are
identified in the notes to Coues's L. and C., q.v.; but as many of these are but conjectures,
the reader will do well to compare carefully therewith the facsimiles of Clark's
original maps, published in the present edition.—Ed.

May 22nd Tuesday 1804—

A Cloudy Morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who
got liberty to return to arrange Some business they had forgotten
in Town, at 6 oClock we proceeded on, passed Several
small farms on the bank, and a large creek on the Lbd. Side
Called Bonom [bon homme] a Camp of Kickapoos[19] on the
St. Side (An Indian nation residing on the heads of Kaskaskis &
Illinois river 90 miles N.E. of the mouth of the Missouri, & hunt
occasionally on the Missouri
)

Those Indians told me several days ago that they would
Come on and hunt and by the time I got to their Camp they
would have Some provisions for us, We camped in a Bend
at the Mo: of a Small creek, Soon after we came too the
Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave
them two qts. of Whiskey

Course & Distance the 22nd May

         
S 60°. W.  Ms. to a pt. Lbd Side 
S 43°. W.  Ms. to a pt. Stbd. Side 
West  3 1/2  Ms. to a pt. on Stbd. Sd. psd. Bonom 
S. 75°. W.  7 1/2  Ms. to a pt. in Bend to Stbd. Side at the Mo.
of Osage Womans R[20]  
18 

This day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands
on the Starboard Side, verry hard water.

 
[19]

An Algonquian tribe, formerly located in southern Wisconsin, where is a river
bearing their name.—Ed.

[20]

Still named Femme Osage River.—Ed.


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May 23rd Wednesday 1804—

We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one hour,
proceeded the Course of Last night 2 miles to the mouth of a
Creek [R] on the Stbd. Side called Osage Womans R, about
30 yds Wide, opposit a large Island and a [American] Settlement.
(on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled, crossed to
the Setlemt. and took in R & Jos Fields who had been Sent
to purchase Corn & Butter &c Many people Came to See
us, we passed a large Cave on the Lbd. Side (Called by the
french the Tavern[21] —about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep & 20
feet high many different immages are Painted on the Rock at
this place the Inds. & French pay omage. Many names are
wrote on the rock, Stoped about one mile above for Capt Lewis
who had assended the Clifts which is at the Said Cave 300
fee[t] high, hanging over the waters, the water excessively
Swift to day, We incamped below a Small Isld. in the Middle
of the river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer.

Course & Distance 23rd May

     
S. 75 W  mils to Osage Womn. R the Course of last Night 
S. 52 W  mils. to a pt. on St. Side. 

This evening we examined the arms and amunition found
those mens arms in the perogue in bad order. a fair evening.
Capt. Lewis near falling from the Pinecles of rocks 300 feet, he
caught at 20 foot.

 
[21]

Thus named, according to Brackenridge (Views of Louisiana, p. 203), because
this cave afforded "a stopping place for voyagers ascending, or on returning to their
homes after a long absence." The American settlement just below this place was the
Kentucky colony recently founded on Femme Osage River, about six miles above its
mouth; among these settlers was Daniel Boone, who in 1798 had obtained a grant of
land there from the Spanish authorities, whereon he resided until 1804. His death
occurred at Femme Osage, on Sept. 26, 1820 (see the Draper MSS. Collection in
library of Wisconsin Historical Society; press-mark, 16 C 28).— Ed

May 24th Thursday 1804—

Set out early. passed a verry bad part of the River Called
the Deavels race ground, this is where the Current Sets against
some projecting rocks for half a Mile on the Labd. Side, above


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this place is the Mouth of a Small Creek called queevere,
passed Several Islands, two Small Creeks on the Stbd. Side,
and passed between a Isld. and the Lbd. Shore a narrow pass
above this Isld. is a verry bad part of the river, We attempted
to pass up under the Lbd. Bank which was falling in so fast
that the evident danger obliged us to cross between the
Starbd. Side and a Sand bar in the middle of the river, We
hove up near the head of the Sand bar, the Same moveing &
backing caused us to run on the sand. The Swiftness of the
Current Wheeled the boat, Broke our Toe rope, and was
nearly over Setting the boat, all hands jumped out on the
upper Side and bore on that Side untill the Sand washed from
under the boat and Wheeled on the next bank by the time
She wheeled a 3rd.. Time got a rope fast to her Stern and by
the means of swimmers was Carred to Shore and when her
stern was down whilst in the act of Swinging a third time into
Deep Water near the Shore, we returned, to the Island
where we Set out and assended under the Bank which I have
just mentioned, as falling in, here George Drewyer & Willard,
two of our men who left us at St. Charles to come on by land
joined us, we camped about 1 mile above where we were So
nearly being lost, on the Labd. Side at a Plantation. all in
Spirits. This place I call the retragrade bend as we were
obliged to fall back 2 miles

Course & Distance of the 24th.. May

       
S. 63°. W,  Ms. to a pt. on Stbd. Side 
S. 68 W,  Ms. to a pt on Lbd. Side 
S. 75° W,  Ms. to a pt. on Stbd. Side 
10 

May 25th. Friday 1804—

rain last night, river fall several inches, Set out early psd.
Several Islands passed Wood River on the Lbd. Side at 2
Miles passed [again] the Creek on the St. Side called La
quevr [quiver] at 5 miles passed a [small] Creek (called R la
poceau) at 8 miles, opsc. an Isd. on the Lbd. Side, Camped at
the mouth of a Creek called River a Chouritte, [La Charrette],


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above a Small french Village of 7 houses and as many families,[22]
settled at this place to be convt. to hunt, & trade with the Indians,
here we met with M. Louisell, imedeately down from
the Seeder [Cedar] Isld. Situated in the Country of the Sciox
[Sioux] 400 Leagues up he gave us a good Deel of information
[and] Some letters he informed us that he Saw no
Indians on the river below the Poncrars [Poncaras].[23] Some
hard rain this evening.

Course & Distance 25th May

       
West  M s. Stbd. Side passed Creek 
N. 57° W.  Ms. Lbd. Side psd. Creek 
N. 20° W  M s.to Mo: Chouritte Creek 
10  & Village on the St. Side. 

The people at this Village is pore, houses Small, they sent
us milk & eggs to eat.

 
[22]

Gass and Floyd, in their journals, call this place St. John's, and say that it was
"the last white settlement on the river."—Ed.

[23]

Referring to the Siouan tribe of Poncas, whose village was on the Ponca River,
a stream flowing into the Missouri not far above the Niobrara River. When visited
by our explorers, their town was found deserted, the tribe (then reduced to a few
cabins) being absent on a hunting expedition, and having joined the Omahas, also a
Siouan tribe, for mutual aid and protection.—Ed.

May the 26th.. Satturday 1804—

Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy Shour of rain (George
Drewyer, & John Sheelds, sent by Land with the two horses
with directions to proceed on one day & hunt the next)

The wind favourable from the E.N.E. passed Beef Island
and River on Lbd. Side at 3 1/2 ms. [a large island called Buffaloe
Island separated from the land by a small channel into which
Buffaloe creek empties itself
]. Passed a creek on the Lbd. Side
called Shepperds Creek, passed Several Islands to day, great
Deel of Deer Sign on the Bank, one man out hunting,
W[e] camped on an Island on the Starboard Side [near the
Southern extrem' of Luter Island
(La L'outre)[24] ]


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Course & Distance to day

             
S. 50°. W.  3 1/2  Ms. to a pt S. Side opsd. pt. Buf Isd
N. 80° W  2 1/2  Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd
N. 88° W  3 1/2  Ms. to pt. Std. Sd. abov Buf Isd
N. 82° W  1 1/2  Ms. to pt. Sd. Side 
N 37° W  Ms. to pt. Lbd. Sd. passed 2 Is. & Shepd. R. 
N 60° W.  Ms. to pt. on St. Sd. pd. a Isd. S. S. 
18 
 
[24]

L'Outre Island, as given on modern maps—this, as well as the form in the
text, corrupted from the French word loutre ("otter"). Floyd and Biddle use the
English name for the island or the creek.—Ed.