University of Virginia Library

2. PART II
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS

13. A Merchant's Voyage and Cargo
BY GILES SHELLEY (1699)[24]

I AM just now come to anchor at Cape May. Since I left you at Cape Bon-Esperance I went from thence to Madagascar, where I sold your goods for seventeen bales of muslin, fine and coarse, and twenty-four bales of white calicoes; one ton of elephants' teeth; about two or three hundred weight of opium; one bale painted calicoes, &c. Which goods I have now on board.

Sometime afterward I took on board seventy-five passengers, went to Port Dolphin, and there went ashore. I provisioned the ship and bought a few negroes, and some pigs of tooth and egg.[25]

From thence I went to Cyan and landed twenty-two passengers. The remainder are now on board and most of them are bound for Virginia and Delaware with Andrew Graverard who is here with us. I have for their passages about twelve thousand pieces of eight[26] and about three thousand Lyon dollars.


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My carpenter, the tailor, and one man more are dead. Thomas Pringle and three men more left me at Madagascar. If you think fit you may let my wife know of my arrival, for I have not written to her.

Captain Burges arrived at St. Maries the day I sailed from thence. He hath sold his goods very well. No other vessel arrived while I was there. I have but twenty-three negroes[27] on board for the benefit of the owners.

Each bale of muslin one with the other I bought for one hundred pieces in a bale; the calico for one hundred twenty pieces in a bale. I desire you to send by the bearer to me at Cape May. Unless I


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should be stopped by contrary winds here, I shall be very soon at Sandy Hook. Our ship is very foul and leaky.

Make what dispatch you can for fear some of my passengers should betray us. I have hired Mr. Graverard on his voyage to Virginia to pilot us in here, for which I must pay him. It is a dangerous place and very foggy rainy weather.

I think it needless to enlarge any more at present, but wish all were safe ashore. Then doubt not but the voyage would prove satisfactory, which hath been the utmost care of

Sir, Your Humble Servant,

GILES SHELLEY.

[[24]]

A letter written by a ship's captain to his owners a short time before reaching New York. It shows how far ships travelled in those days, and what they brought home.

[[25]]

"Tooth and Egg": a kind of metal.

[[26]]

Pieces of eight, i.e. a Spanish dollar.

[[27]]

Slaves.

14. The Fashions
BY JOSEPH T. BUCKINGHAM (1731)[28]

A MAN'S CRITICISM

I HAVE no objections to make to the tippet; it may be made an elegant and beautiful ornament. In winter the sable is wonderfully graceful and a fine help to the complexion. In summer the colors and compositions are to be adapted with judgment, neither dull without fancy, nor gaudy without beauty. I have seen too many of the last; but, as I believe them to be the first trial of a child's genius in such performances, I only give this hint for their amendment.

As the breast knot allows a good deal of ingenuity in the delicate choice of colors and disposition of figure, I think it may be indulged, but very sparingly,


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illustration

ABIGAIL BISHOP'S DRESS.

[Description: A photograph of a Mary Putnam Hart, lineal descendant of Abigail Bishop. She wears a floor-length brocaded dress, simple jewelry, and a rose in her hair; she holds an unidentifiable object.]

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and rather with a carelessness than the least affectation. It seems there is a fashion even in the colors of ribbons, and I have observed a beautiful purple to be lately the general mode. It is not the beauty of the color that recommends it, so much as the symbol it is said to bear.

I come now to the head-dress, the very highest point of female elegance. Here I find such a variety of modes, such a medley of decoration, that it is hard to know where to fix. Lace and cambric, gauze and fringe, feathers and ribbons, create such a confusion, occasion such frequent changes, that it defies art, judgment, or taste, to recommend them to any standard, or reduce them to any order. One ornament of the hair is styled the "horns," and has been long in vogue.

The hat and peruke[29], which has been some time made part of a lady's riding equipage, is such an odd kind of affectation, that I hardly know under what species to range it. It is such an enemy to female beauty, it is so foreign to every amiable grace, it adds such a masculine fierceness to the figure, and such a boldness to every feature, that neither decency nor elegance can justify it.

The riding habit simply, with the black velvet cap and white feather, is, in my opinion, the most elegant dress that belongs to a lady's wardrobe; there is a grace and gentility in it that all other dresses want. It displays the shape and turn of the body to great advantage, and betrays a negligence that is perfectly agreeable. This fashion was certainly invented by a woman of taste, and I am pleased to see the ladies in general so well reconciled to it.

It argues something like good sense in their choice still remaining. She, who makes her whole actions


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most conformable to that standard, will always be most secure of conquests and reputation.

A WOMAN'S CRITICISM

You seem to blame us for our innovations and fleeting fancy in dress, which you are most notoriously guilty of, who esteem yourselves the mighty, wise, and head of the species. Therefore I think it highly necessary that you show us the example first, and begin the reformation among yourselves, if you intend your observations shall have any weight with us.

I leave the world to judge whether our petticoat resembles the dome of St. Paul's nearer than you in your long coats do the Monument, or (not to borrow similes from abroad) our Beacon.

You complain of our masculine appearance in our riding habit. We think it is but reasonable that we should make reprisals upon you, for the invasion of our dress and figure, and the advances you make in effeminacy, and your degeneracy from the figure of man.

Can there be a more ridiculous appearance than to see a smart fellow within the height of five feet immersed in a huge long coat to his heels, with cuffs to the arm-pits, the shoulders and breast fenced against the inclemencies of the weather by a monstrous cape, or rather short cloak, shoe toes pointed to the heavens in imitation of the Laplanders, with buckles of a harness size?

I confess the beaux with their toupee wigs make us extremely merry; and frequently put me in mind of my favorite monkey, both in figure and apishness. Were it not for a reverse of circumstance, I should be apt to mistake it for "pug," and treat him with the same familiarity.

[[28]]

These extracts are taken from a newspaper of the time, and are a kind of joke; but they describe some of the oddities of the dress of the time.

[[29]]

Peruke wig.


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15. A Practical Joke
BY WILLIAM BLACK (1744)

WE took barge to go on board the Margaret, then lying off the mouth of the river. In an hour we were out of sight of Annapolis; at four we were at dinner. Properly speaking some of us made but one meal a day, and that lasting from morning to night.

The biscuit[30] barrel, standing open upon deck by the pump, every other minute one hand or another would be diving in it. You might hear our grinders like so many hogs under a peach tree in a very high wind.

Towards the going down of the sun we saw a boat and canoe fishing inshore. We hailed them with, "Have you got any fish?" They returned with, "Have you got any rum?" We answered, "Yes, will you come on board and taste it?"

Then they untied and made directly for us, but were very much surprised with the manner of reception they met with. We had the blunderbush[31] ready loaded and aimed on the side while they were to board us. Mr. Littlepage, who was to act the part of the lieutenant of a man of war, was furnished with four loaded pistols and the like number of swords.

With his laced hat and romantic countenance he made an appearance much like another Black-beard.[32] Several more of our company were armed each with a drawn sword and cocked pistol. Several pistols, three fowling pieces loaded, and some drawn swords were lying in view on a table on the main deck.

In this manner were we equipped and stationed ready to receive the poor fishermen. When they


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illustration

A WELL-DRESSED GENTLEMAN.
(NICHOLAS BOYLSTON.)

[Description: Portrait of Nicholas Boylston, seated with his legs crossed. He wears a rich, ornate coat or cape, and a hat made of shiny fabric.]

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came near enough to observe our postures, they immediately lay on their oars and paddles with no small concern to know what we were. In a little time the ebb tide drew them alongside, and Littlepage asked them in a sailor-like manner if they would come on board and serve his majesty.[33] To this they made no reply, but kept gazing at us like so many thunderstruck persons. At last, with a discharge of our great gun and small arms, flourishing our swords round our heads, we asked them to come on board directly, else we would sink them.

On hearing this, as if recovered from a trance, they called out to one another with signs of the greatest fear imaginable in their countenances: "Pull about! Pull about! for God's sake!" With all the eagerness possible they set to pulling and paddling as if pursued by a Spanish privateer.

A call was made to haul up the barge and man her. This being done, Littlepage and myself got in with each a pair of pistols and a sword and made directly after them. Upon this, they quickened if possible their strokes, pulling for life directly to the shore. Now and then one or other of them would look behind and then cry out, "Pull away! Pull away! or we are all taken."

At last they gained the shore. As soon as their vessels struck the ground they got their jackets on their shoulders, and without the least care of their craft made directly for the woods. We were pursuing, hallowing, and brandishing our swords, and they were flying with their whole might, now looking behind them to see how near we were, then before them to see how far they were from the shore.

It was a scene sufficient to create pleasure and a


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laugh in gentlemen less blithe and gaily disposed than these honorable commissioners. When they gained the land we turned and lay on our oars (for all we wanted was to surprise them a little). As soon as their fear and terror allowed them time to look behind, they rallied.

As they were now in safety on solid land and in some measure freed from that dreadful apprehension of serving his majesty, they opened on us all at once, like so many hounds on a warm scent. They called us a parcel of scoundrels, and told us that if we would only come ashore man for man they would teach us what it was to fire guns at people and frighten them in so unaccountable a manner.

After exchanging a little Billingsgate[34] with them we returned on board, where we found the rest of our company very much pleased with the adventure. Night appeared cloudy, and it looked very squally when I betook myself to my cabin. In a very little time I got into the drowsy god's dominions, where let me rest till you turn over the leaf.

[[30]]

Biscuit—that is, ship's biscuit or pilot-bread: a sort of hard-baked big round cracker.

[[31]]

A blunderbush, or blunderbuss, was a kind of large pistol, with a flaring muzzle.

[[32]]

A famous pirate.

[[33]]

The joke was to make the fishermen believe that the jokers were members of a "press gang," a body of sailors from a ship-of-war, out to sweep up seafaring men and compel them to serve in the royal navy.

[[34]]

Billingsgate means abusive language.

16. Presents from London
BY BENJAMIN FRANKLIN (1758)[35]

I SEND you by Captain Budden a large case, and a small box. In the large case is another small box, containing some English china; namely, melons and leaves for a dessert of fruit and cream, or the like; a bowl remarkable for the neatness of the figures, made at Bow, near this city; some coffee cups of the same; a Worcester bowl, ordinary.


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To show the difference of workmanship, there is something from all the china works in England; and one old true china basin mended, of an odd color.

The same box contains four silver salt ladles, newest but ugliest fashion; a little instrument to core apples; another to make little turnips out of great ones; six coarse breakfast cloths; (they are to spread on the tea-table, for nobody breakfasts here on the bare table, but on the cloth they set a large tea-board with the cups).

There is also a little basket, a present from Mrs. Stevenson to Sally, and a pair of garters for you, which were knit by the young lady, her daughter, who favored me with a pair of the same kind. They are the only ones I have been able to wear; as they need not to be bound tight, the ridges in them prevent their slipping. We send them therefore as a curiosity for the form, more than for the value. Goody Smith may, if she pleases, make such for me hereafter. My love to her.

In the great case, besides the little box, is contained some carpeting for a best room floor. There is enough for one large or two small ones. It is to be sewed together, the edges first turned down, and care taken to make the figures meet exactly; there is bordering for the same. This was my fancy.

Also two large fine Flanders bedticks, and two pair of large superfine blankets, two fine damask tablecloths and napkins, and forty-three ells[36] of Ghentish sheeting Holland. These you ordered.

There are also fifty-six yards of cotton,[37] printed curiously from copper plates, a new invention, to make bed and window curtains; and seven yards of chair bottoms, printed in the same way, very neat.


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These were my fancy; but Mrs. Stevenson tells me I did wrong not to buy both of the same color. Also seven yards of printed cotton, blue ground, to make you a gown.

I bought it by candlelight, and liked it then, but not so well afterwards. If you do not fancy it, send it as a present from me to sister Jenny. There is a better gown for you, of flowered tissue, sixteen yards, of Mrs. Stevenson's fancy, cost nine guineas;[38] and I think it a great beauty. There was no more of the sort, or you should have had enough for a suit.

There are also snuffers, a snuffstand, and extinguisher, of steel, which I send for the beauty of the work. The extinguisher is for spermaceti candles only, and is of a new contrivance, to preserve the snuff upon the candle. There is some music Billy bought for his sister, and some pamphlets for the Speaker and for Susy Wright.

A mahogany box and a little shagreen box, with microscopes and other optical instruments loose, are for Mr. Alison, if he likes them; if not, put them in my room till I return. I send the invoice of them, and I wrote to him formerly the reason of my exceeding his orders. There are also two sets of books, a present from me to Sally, The World and The Connoisseur. My love to her.

I forgot to mention another of my fancyings, namely, a pair of silk blankets, very fine. They are .of a new kind, were just taken in a French prize, and such were never seen in England before. They are called blankets, but I think they will be very neat to cover a summer bed, instead of a quilt or counterpane. I had no choice, so you will excuse the soil on some of the folds; your neighbour Foster can get it off. I


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also forgot, among the china, to mention a large fine jug, to stand in the cooler.

I fell in love with it at first sight; for I thought it looked like a fat jolly dame, clean and tidy, with a neat blue and white calico gown on, good natured and lovely, and put me in mind of—somebody. It has the coffee cups in it, packed in best crystal salt, of a peculiar nice flavor, for the table, not to be powdered.

I hope Sally applies herself closely to her French and music, and that I shall find she has made great proficiency. The harpsichord[39] I was looking at, and which was to have cost me forty guineas,[40] Mr. Stanley advises me not to buy; and we are looking out for another, one that has been some time in use, and is a tried good one, there being not so much dependence on a new one, though made by the best hands.

Sally's last letter to her brother is the best written that of late I have seen of hers. I only wish she were a little more careful of her spelling. I hope she continues to love going to church, and would have her read over and over again the "Whole Duty of Man," and the "Lady's Library."

Look at the figures on the china bowl and coffee


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cups, with your spectacles on; they will bear examining.

I have made your compliments to Mrs. Stevenson. She is indeed very obliging, takes great care of my health, and is very attentive when I am in any way ill. But yet I have a thousand times wished you with me, and my little Sally with her ready hands and feet to do, and go, and come, and get what I wanted. There is a great difference in sickness when one cannot be nursed with that tender attention which proceeds from sincere love.

[[35]]

Written by Franklin to his wife, Mrs. Deborah Franklin.

[[36]]

Ell = yard.

[[37]]

Cotton was then a rare material.

[[38]]

$47

[[39]]

A harpsichord was a kind of little piano.

[[40]]

$200.

17. In the Woods
BY ANDREW BURNABY (1760)[41]

ONE of the chief articles for exportation are masts for the royal navy. These are made of white pine, and are, I believe, the finest in the world, many of them forty yards long, and as many inches in diameter.

They never cut them down but in times of deep snow, as it would be impossible in any other season to get them down to the river. When the trees are fallen, they put on seventy or eighty yoke of oxen, and drag them along the snow. It is exceedingly difficult to put them first in motion, which they call raising them. When they have once effected this, they never stop upon any account whatsoever till they arrive at the water side.

Frequently some of the oxen are taken ill; upon which they immediately cut them out of the gears, and are sometimes obliged, I am told, to sacrifice five or six yoke of them.


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The forests, where these masts grow, are reserved to the crown, which appoints a surveyor of them, commonly the governor of this province.

This is not the only expedient employed by government for the preservation of such trees as may be of use for the royal navy. There is an act of parliament, I believe, which prohibits, under pain of certain fines and penalties, the cutting down, or destroying, of any white pine tree, of specified dimensions, growing outside the boundaries of any town, without his majesty's license, in any of the provinces of New England, New York, or New Jersey.

This restriction is absolutely necessary, whether considered as securing a provision for the navy,[42] or as a check upon that very destructive practice, taken from the Indians, of fire-hunting. It used to be the custom for large companies to go into the woods in the winter, and to set fire to the brush and underwood in a circle of several miles. This circle gradually contracting itself, the deer, and other wild animals inclosed, naturally retired from the flames, till at length they got herded together in a very small compass.

Then, blinded and suffocated by the smoke, and scorched by the fire, which every moment came nearer to them, they forced their way, under the greatest trepidation and dismay, through the flames. As soon as they got into the open daylight again, they were shot by the hunters, who stood without and were in readiness to fire upon them.

The trees included within the circle, although not absolutely burnt down, were so dried and injured that they never vegetated any more; and the fire not only contracted itself inwardly, but also dilated outwardly, and sometimes continued burning for several


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weeks, till rain or some accidental circumstance put it out; there is no measuring the injury and devastation it occasioned in the woods.

I was once a spectator of a similar fire in Virginia, which had happened through accident. Nothing could be more awful and tremendous than the sight. It was of great extent, and burned several weeks before the inhabitants could subdue it. They effected it at last by cutting away the underwood in wide and long avenues, to leeward of the fire, by which it was prevented from communicating or spreading any farther. In Virginia there is an express act of assembly, passed in the 12th year of his late majesty, to forbid this practice.

[[41]]

Burnaby was an English traveller who saw much that other people missed.

[[42]]

When the Revolution cut off the supply of great trees, it is said that many British ships were lost because they could no longer get good masts.

18. All Sorts of Advertisements
FROM THE NEWSPAPERS (1740-1751)

IF any person has a Jersey, English, or Irish boy's time to dispose of, that can shave or cook, he may hear of a purchaser by enquiring of the printer hereof.[43]

Whereas I the subscriber on or about the 25th of October last past, purchased of a certain William Tough, of Salem, in West-New-Jersey, a negro woman slave, which he the said William warranted to be sound and in good order. In consideration whereof I passed my note to him for the payment of twenty-five pounds next May.

The next day after the purchase of said negro I discovered she was much troubled with fits, whereby she is rendered unable to perform any service, and I am much deceived and imposed upon in the purchase.


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These are therefore to forewarn all persons not to be concerned with or take any assignment of the said note from the said William Tough for I am determined not to pay the same, until a trial at law be had thereupon.
JONATHAN STRAINGE.

The Elizabeth-Town lottery is proposed to begin drawing the first Tuesday in May next, if it be full by that time.[44] A small number of the tickets yet remaining unsold, those who incline to become adventurers are desired to be expeditious.

A Jersey boy's time for seven years, to be sold. Enquire of the printer.

Notice is hereby given that there is now in the jail a negro man, says he came from Albany, and his master's name is Millor. He is a middle-sized fellow, aged about twenty-eight or thirty years, has cuts in his face, and laughs much; but has no clothes fit to describe him by.

The owner is desired to fetch him away, and pay the charges.
JOSEPH HOLLINSHEAD, Sheriff.

Our readers are cautioned to beware of a new parcel of counterfeit New Jersey fifteen shilling bills, just beginning to appear among us.[45] They are in imitation of the newest money, dated July 2, 1746, and may be known by these particulars.

The paper of the counterfeits is thin and smooth, and when looked through in the light appears fair and free from knots. The paper of the true bills is thicker, rougher, and when looked through in the light appears clouded and uneven. The counterfeits are wholly done from a copper-plate, the back as well as the foreside; the true bills are printed from common types, in the common printing-press.


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The three crowns by the side of the arms in the counterfeits are unlike each other, and are more round than those in the true bills. The flowers above and below those crowns in the counterfeit are nothing like.

In the counterfeits the letters of the word shillings are larger. There are many other marks by which they may be distinguished, but these, we hope, will be sufficient at present.

To be sold at public vendue, on Friday the 29th, at the house of Mr. Joseph Johnson, in Newark, two negro men who understand mining; as also the utensils belonging to the mine, in Kingsland's lands, with pots and kettles, &c. As also the remaining part of the lease of said mine, which is nearly two years.[46]

Run away on the 14th of last month from Abraham Lord, of Piles-Grove, Salem county, an Irish servant man, named Daniel Foy, of a middle stature, pale complexion, about twenty-six years of age, well-set, speaks but middling English, and has been on the expedition against Canada. Had on when he went away, a linsey-woolsey[47] blue grey coat, with large brass buttons, a grey cloth jacket, buck-skin breeches, felt hat, grey cotton cap, and a red silk handkerchief. He has two pair of stockings with him, one grey worsted, ribbed, the other blue yarn. Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that his master may have him again, shall have three pounds reward and reasonable charges paid by
ABRAHAM LORD.

Ran away on the 20th from Nathan Watson, of Mount-Holly, an Irish servant man, named Christopher Cooney, a short well-set fellow, about twenty-six years of age, of a pale complexion, short brown curled


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hair, had lost one of his under fore teeth, and has had his right leg broke, and walks with his toe turned outward.[48]

Had on when he went away, a new castor hat, a red great coat, a light colored fustian coat and jacket, new copper colored broadcloth breeches, lined with leather, new black and white yarn stockings, old shoes, newly soled. He was some time past a hostler

at Jonathan Thomas's, in Burlington. Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that his master may have him again, shall have forty shillings reward, and reasonable charges, paid by
NATHAN WATSON.

Lost, last fall, in Morris-Town, in East-Jersey, a dog, of the pointer kind, all white, his tail docked and has had his off thigh broken; answers to the name of Cato. Whoever brings the said dog to Mr. Waters at Elizabeth-Town Point, shall have five shillings reward.[49]


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Now in the custody of Thomas Smith, sheriff of Cape-May county, a run-away negro man,[50] who goes by the name of Jupiter Hazard, is about twenty-seven years of age, not very black, of a middle size, and well built. Had on when taken up, a flannel shirt, leather breeches with a fob in the waist-band, shoes and stockings, both very good, the stockings of a blue color, bathmetal buckles, a good felt hat and worsted cap. He speaks English like a country-born negro who has lived some time among the Dutch.

He had a bundle with him, which contained two white shirts, a dimity jacket and breeches, a white handkerchief, a linen cap, and a pocket-book with four dollars in it, and a pair of silver knee-buckles, marked N. S. He seems to have travelled, for he gives a good account of Rhode Island, New York, Pennsylvania, Shrewsbury, and other places: says his master's name is John Bannister, and that he lives at Piscataway, in Rhode Island Government.

[[43]]

What was wanted was the service of an indentured Servant.

[[44]]

Lotteries were very common, even for colleges and parsonages.

[[45]]

The paper money was roughly printed, and could easily be imitated.

[[46]]

The sale of slaves at auction (vendue) was a common incident of the times.

[[47]]

Linsey-woolsey was cloth woven in hand looms, half linen and half wool.

[[48]]

White servants who left their masters before their term of service had expired were liable to pursuit, capture, and punishment, like slaves.

[[49]]

The reward for the dog is one-eighth that for the man.

[[50]]

A negro found wandering about might be arrested and lodged in jail, simply on the chance that he was a fugitive slave.

19. A Rousing Whaling Song
BY JOHN OSBORN (ABOUT 1750)[51]

WHEN spring returns with western gales,
And gentle breezes sweep
The ruffling seas, we spread our sails
To plough the watery deep.
For killing northern whales prepared,
Our nimble boats on board,
With craft and rum (our chief regard)
And good provisions stored.

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Cape Cod, our dearest native land,
We leave astern, and lose
Its sinking cliffs and lessening sands
While Zephyr gently blows.
Bold, hardy men, with blooming age,
Our sandy shores produce;
With monstrous fish they dare engage,
And dangerous callings choose.
Now towards the early dawning east
We speed our course away,
With eager minds and joyful hearts,
To meet the rising day.
Then as we turn our wandering eyes,
We view one constant show;
Above, around, the circling skies,
The rolling seas below.
When eastward, clear of Newfoundland,
We stem the frozen pole,
We see the icy islands stand,
The northern billows roll.
As to the north we make our way,
Surprising scenes we find;
We lengthen out the tedious day,
And leave the night behind.
Now see the northern regions, where
Eternal winter reigns:
One day and night fills up the year,
And endless cold maintains.

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We view the monsters of the deep,
Great whales in numerous swarms;
And creatures there, that play and leap,
Of strange, unusual forms.
When in our station we are placed,
And whales around us play,
We launch our boats into the main,
And swiftly chase our prey.
In haste we ply our nimble oars,
For an assault designed;
The sea beneath us foams and roars,
And leaves a wake behind.
A mighty whale we rush upon,
And in our irons throw:
She sinks her monstrous body down
Among the waves below.
And when she rises out again,
We soon renew the fight;
Thrust our sharp lances in amain,
And all her rage excite.
Enraged, she makes a mighty bound;
Thick foams the whitened sea;
The waves in circles rise around,
And widening roll away.
She thrashes with her tail around,
And blows her reddening breath;
She breaks the air, a deafening sound,
While ocean groans beneath.

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From numerous wounds, with crimson flood,
She stains the frothy seas,
And gasps, and blows her latest blood,
While quivering life decays.
With joyful hearts we see her die,
And on the surface lay;[52]
While all with eager haste apply,
To save our deathful prey.
[[51]]

At that time whales were still abundant in the North Atlantic Ocean.

[[52]]

I.e. lie.

20. Life in Boston
BY FRANCIS GOELET (1750)[53]

BOSTON, the metropolis of North America is considered the largest town upon the continent. It has about three thousand houses in it, nearly two thirds of which are wooden, framed, and covered with clapboards. Some of them are very spacious buildings, and with their gardens about them cover a great deal of ground. They are for the most part two and three stories high, and most of them have sash windows.

The brick buildings are much better and more strongly built, more after the modern taste, all sashed and pretty well ornamented. They have also yards and gardens adjoining them. All the streets are very irregular; though the main streets are broad and paved with stone, the cross streets are narrow and paved, except towards the outskirts of the town.

The town extends about two miles in length, north and south. It is in some places half a mile, and in others three fourths of a mile, broad. It has one main street running the whole length of the town from north to south, and tolerably broad.[54]


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The situation of the place is extremely pleasant, being on a neck of land, with tide flowing on each side. That part of the town may be called an island, for the water which parts it from the main continent is only about twenty feet across, with drawbridges; and the tide runs very strong through the bridge.

The harbor is defended by a strong castle of a hundred guns, built upon an island where the shipping must pass by and within hail. This situation is extraordinary, for it commands the harbor on every side; it is well built and kept in exceedingly good order.

The tide in the harbor rises about twelve or thirteen feet perpendicularly at the full and change of the moon, and thus is very inconvenient for loaded vessels, since there is not more than twelve feet of water at the end of the Long Wharf. This wharf is noted as the longest in North America, for it is nearly half an English mile in length and runs directly out from shore. One side is full of warehouses from one end to the other.

The Bostoniers build a vast number of vessels for sale, from small sloops up to topsail vessels. They are noted for good sailing vessels.

This place has about twelve meeting-houses and three Episcopal churches, which are all very indifferent buildings, of no kind of architecture, but very plain. At the North end of the town they have a chime of bells, which are very poor. They have only one market, which is all built of brick, about eighty feet long and arched on both sides. It is two stories high and has the upper part sashed. It contains several of the public offices of the town.

They have also a town-house built of brick, situated in King Street.[55] It is a very grand brick building,


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arched all round, and two stories high, sashed above. Its lower part is always open, for it is intended to be an exchange. The merchants in fair weather carry on their business in the open street, at the easternmost end. In the upper story are the council and assembly, chambers, etc. It has a neat cupola, sashed all round, which on rejoicing days[56] is illuminated. As to government, Boston is dependent and subordinate to England for its laws, being under the king's government. The governor is a person appointed from home[57] to represent his Majesty. The laws are made by the two houses of the legislature, the council and the great and general assembly. The former is like the English House of Lords, and the latter like the Commons. Unless the governor signs the bill, it does not pass into a law.

The Boston people are very strict observers of the Sabbath day. While service is going on no persons except doctors are allowed on the streets. If you are found upon the streets and the constables meet you, they compel you to go either to an Episcopal church or to the Congregational meeting, as you choose.

Also in swearing, if you are caught[58] you must pay a crown for every oath, on being convicted thereof, without further dispute.

[[53]]

Goelet was a sea-captain, on a visit from New York.

[[54]]

The present Washington Street.

[[55]]

The old State House.

[[56]]

I.e. days of rejoicing.

[[57]]

I.e. from England.

[[58]]

Captain Goelet wrote "catch'd" for caught.


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21. A Storm at Sea
BY PHILIP FRENEAU[59]

HAPPY the man who, safe on shore,
Now trims, at home, his evening fire;
Unmov'd he hears the tempest roar,
That on the tufted groves expire;
Alas! on us they doubly fall,
Our feeble bark must bear them all.
Now to their haunts the birds retreat,
The squirrel seeks his hollow tree,
Wolves in their shaded caverns meet,
All, all are blest but wretched we—
For, doom'd a stranger to repose,
No rest the unsettled ocean knows.
Whilst o'er the dark abyss we roam,
Perhaps, whate'er the pilots say,
We saw the sun's descending gloom,
No more to see the rising ray;
But buried low, by far too deep,
On coral beds unpitied sleep!
But what a strange uncoasted strand
Is that where death permits no day,
No charts we have to mark that land,
No compass to direct the way!
What pilot shall explore that realm,
What new Columbus take the helm!
While death and darkness both surround,
And tempests rage with lawless power,
Of friendship's voice I hear no sound,
No comfort in this dreadful hour—

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What friendship can in tempests be,
What comforts on this angry sea!
The barque accustom'd to obey,
No more the trembling pilots guide,
Alone she gropes her trackless way,
While mountains burst on every side.
Thus skill and science both must fall,
And ruin is the lot of all.
[[59]]

Freneau was born in France, but became a noted newspaper man, author, and poet in America.

22. Saved from Niagara
BY PETER KALM (1750)

IT was formerly thought impossible for anybody living to come at the island that is in the middle of the fall:[60] but an accident that happened twelve years ago or thereabouts, made it appear otherwise. The history is this.

Two Indians of the Six Nations went out from Niagara fort to hunt upon an island that is in the middle of the river or strait above the great fall.

On this island used to be abundance of deer. They took some French brandy with them from the fort, which they tasted several times as they were going over the carrying place. When they were in the canoe, they took now and then a dram, and so went along up the strait towards the island where they proposed to hunt. Growing sleepy they laid themselves down in the canoe, which getting loose drove back with the stream, farther and farther down, till it came near that island that is in the middle of the fall.


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Here one of them, awakened by the noise of the fall, cries out to the other, that they were gone! yet they tried if possible to save life. This island was nearest, and with much working they got on shore there. At first they were glad; but when they had considered everything, they thought themselves hardly in a better state than if they had gone down the fall. They had now no other choice, than either to throw themselves down the cliff, or to perish with hunger.

But hard necessity put them on invention. At the lower end of the island the rock is perpendicular, and no water is running there. This island has plenty of wood, they went to work directly and made a ladder or shrouds of the bark of linden-tree (which is very tough and strong). They made it so long that with it they could reach the water below.

One end of this bark ladder they tied fast to a great tree that grew at the side of the rock above the fall, and let the other end down to the water. So they went down along their new-invented stairs, and when they came to the bottom in the middle of the fall, they rested a little. As the water next below the fall is not rapid, as before mentioned, they threw themselves out into it, thinking to swim on shore.

I have said before, that one part of the fall is on one side of the island, the other on the other side. Hence it is, that the waters of the two cataracts running against each other, turn back against the rock that is just under the island. Therefore, hardly had the Indians begun to swim, before the waves of the eddy threw them with violence against the rock from whence they came.

They tried it several times, but at last grew weary;


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and were so often thrown against the rock, that they were much bruised, and the skin of their bodies torn in many places. So they were obliged to climb up their stairs again to the island, not knowing what to do. After some time they perceived Indians on the shore, to whom they cried out.

These saw and pitied them, but gave them little hopes of help; yet they made haste down to the fort,

and told the commander where two of their brethren were. He persuaded them to try all possible means of relieving the two poor Indians; and it was done in this manner.

The water that runs on the east side of this island is shallow, especially a little above the island towards the eastern shore. The commandant caused poles to be made and pointed with iron. Two Indians determined


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to walk to this island by the help of these poles, to save the other poor creatures, or perish themselves.

They took leave of all their friends as if they were going to death. Each had two such poles in his hands, to set against the bottom of the stream, to keep them steady. So they went and got to the island, and having given poles to the two poor Indians there, they all returned safely to the main.

Those two Indians who in the above mentioned manner were first brought to this island, are yet alive. They were nine days on the island, and almost starved to death. Now since the way to this island has been found, the Indians go there often to kill deer, which have tried to cross the river above the fall, and were driven upon the island by the stream: but if the king of France would give me all Canada, I would not venture to go to this island; and were you to see it, sir, I am sure you would have the same sentiment.

[[60]]

The island is Goat island, long since joined to the American side by bridges.

23. A Tornado and a Waterspout
BY OLIVER HART (1752)

THIS province[61] is subject to frequent and dreadful tempests of thunder and lightning, in May, June, July and August.

For several days together, about the middle of July, 1752, the mercury never fell below ninety-nine or one hundred degrees. Very little rain fell between that time and September the 14th, when the wind in the afternoon began to blow with great violence from the north-east and continued increasing till the morning


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of the 15th, when its force was irresistible. It stopped the course of the Gulf stream, which poured in upon us like a torrent, filling the harbor in a few minutes. Before eleven o'clock, A.M. all the vessels in the harbor were on shore, except the "Hornet" man of war, which rode it out by cutting away her masts.

All the wharfs and bridges were ruined, and every house and store upon them beaten down, as were also many houses in the town, with abundance of roofs, chimneys, &c. Almost all the tiled or slated houses were uncovered, and great quantities of merchandise in the stores of the Bay-street were damaged by their doors being burst open. The town was likewise overflowed, the water having risen ten feet above highwater mark at spring-tides.

Nothing was to be seen but ruins of houses, canoes, wrecks of boats, masts, yards, barrels, staves, &c. floating and driving with great violence through the streets, and round about the town. The inhabitants found themselves in the midst of a tempestuous sea; the violence of the wind continued; the tide (according to its common course) was expected to flow, till after one o'clock; and many of the people were up to their necks in water in their houses. Hence they began now to despair of life.

Here we must record as signal an instance of the immediate interposition of Divine Providence as ever appeared. They were soon delivered from their apprehensions; for, about ten minutes after eleven o'clock, the wind veered to east, southeast, south, and southwest very quick. Then (though its violence continued, the sea still beating and dashing with amazing impetuosity) the waters fell about five feet in the space of ten minutes. Without this sudden and unexpected


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fall, every house and inhabitant of this town must, in all probability, have perished.

This shifting of the wind left the stream of the Gulf of Florida, to follow its wonted course. Before three o'clock, P.M. the hurricane was entirely over. Many people were drowned, and others much hurt by the fall of houses. For about forty miles round Charlestown, there was hardly a plantation that did not lose every out-house upon it, and the roads, for years afterwards, were encumbered with trees blown and broken down.

Whirlwinds are sometimes felt here; a most violent one of that kind, commonly known under the title of Typhones, passed down Ashley River on the 4th of May, I761; and fell upon the shipping in Rebellion Road, with such fury as to threaten the destruction of a large fleet, lying there, ready to sail for Europe. This terrible phenomenon was seen by many of the inhabitants of Charlestown, coming down Wappoo Creek. It resembled a large column of smoke and vapor, whose motion, as well as that of the neighboring clouds, was very irregular and tumultuous. The clouds appeared to be driving down nearly in the same direction, and with great swiftness.

The quantity of vapor which composed this impetuous column, and its prodigious velocity, gave it such a surprising momentum, as to plow Ashley River to the bottom. That it laid the channel bare, many people were eye-witnesses. When it was coming down Ashley River, it made so great a noise as to be heard by most of the people in town, who took it for a constant thunder. It increased in size in its progress to the road. As it passed the town, it was met by another gust,


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which came down Cooper River. This was not of equal strength or impetuosity with the other; but, upon their meeting together, the tumultuous and whirling agitations of the air were seemingly much greater, insomuch that the froth and vapor seemed to be thrown up to a great height towards the middle. The clouds, that were now driving in all directions to this place, appeared to be precipitated, and whirled round at the same time with incredible velocity.

Immediately after, it fell on the shipping in the road, and was scarce three minutes in its passage. Five vessels were sunk outright; his Majesty's ship the Dolphin and many others lost their masts. This tremendous column was seen, at noon, upwards of thirty miles south-west from Charlestown, where it arrived about twenty-five minutes after two. It made an avenue in its course of a great width, tearing up trees, houses, and every thing that opposed it; great quantities of leaves, branches of trees, and even large limbs, were seen furiously driven about, and agitated in the body of the column as it passed along.

The sky was overcast and cloudy all the forenoon; about one o'clock it began to thunder, and continued more or less till three. By four o'clock the wind was quite fallen, the sun shone out, and the sky was clear and serene. We could scarce believe that such a scene had been so recently exhibited, were not the sinking and dismantled vessels so many striking and melancholy proofs of its reality.

[[61]]

Carolina.


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