History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed during the years 1804-5-6. By order of the government of the United States. |
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| VII. |
| VIII. |
| IX. | CHAPTER IX. |
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| XIV. |
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| XVII. |
 | CHAPTER IX. History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. |  |
CHAPTER IX.
The party continue their route—description of Judith river—Indian mode of
taking the buffaloe—Slaughter river described—phenomena of nature—of
walls on the banks of the Missouri—the party encamp on the banks of the river
to ascertain which of the streams constitute the Missouri—captain Lewis
leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores
the southern—the surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis
—narrow escape of one of his party.
Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this
morning the ice appeared along the edges of the river, and
the water froze on our oars. At the distance of a mile we
passed the entrance of a creek on the north, which we named
Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and although it
has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it
discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe,
most of the creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which
are absorbed by the thirsty soil near the river. They indeed
afford but little water in any part, and even that is so
strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit for use, though
all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment it
was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines
in its operation. This creek seems to come from a
range of low hills, which run from east to west for seventy
miles, and have their eastern extremity thirty miles to the
north of Teapot creek. Just above its entrance is a large
assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north side of
the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an
island in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the
island, a small dry creek on the north. Half a mile further
a small creek falls in on the same side; and six and a half
miles beyond this another on the south. At four and a half
the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river another
small island. None of these creeks however possessed
any water, and at the entrances of the islands, the two first
are covered with tall cottonwood timber, and the last with
willows only. The river has become more rapid, the country
much the same as yesterday, except that there is rather
more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine
appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant
and now in bloom; they differ from those of the United States
only in having the leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat
smaller size. We find the musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding
the coolness of the morning. The buffaloe is
scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very
numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the
wings, and are unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of
which we wounded, but in swimming from us across the
river, he become entangled in some driftwood and sank.
We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a
point of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven
miles.
Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of
an inch during the night; the ice appears along the margin
of the river, and the cottonwood-trees which have lost nearly
all their leaves by the frost, are putting forth other buds.
We proceeded with the line principally till about nine o'clock,
when a fine breeze sprung up from the S. E. and enabled us
to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current.
At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards
wide, and containing some water which it empties on the
north side, over a gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone.
A man who was sent up to explore the country returned in
the evening, after having gone ten miles directly towards
the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the source
of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands
is so pure, that objects appear much nearer than
without thinking himself by any means half way to the
mountains, they do not from the river appear more than
fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain
creek. Two and a half miles higher is a creek on the
south which is fifteen yards wide, but without any water,
and to which we gave the name of Littledog creek, from
a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance,
that being the name given by the French watermen to those
animals. Three miles from this a small creek enters on
the north, five beyond which is an island a quarter of a
mile in length, and two miles further a small river: this
falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a
handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and
sand, and the banks high: we called it Southmountain
creek, as from its direction it seemed to rise in a range of
mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the S. W. of its entrance.
The low grounds are narrow and without timber;
the country high and broken; a large portion of black rock,
and brown sandy rock appears in the face of the hills, the
tops of which are covered with scattered pine, spruce and
dwarf cedar; the soil is generally poor, sandy near the tops
of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low
grounds being covered with little else than the hysop,
or southern wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is
more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we have seen but
few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which
seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber.
At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point of woodland
on the south, where we observed that the trees had no
leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country
through which we have passed for some days, and where
we now are, we suppose to be a continuation of what the
French traders called the Cote Noire or Black hills. The
country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular
hills and short chains of mountains, sometimes one hundred
much higher than the country on either side. They commence
about the head of the Kanzas, where they diverge;
the first ridge going westward, along the northern shore of
the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains
obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N. W. and after
passing the Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone
near the Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this
place, and probably swell the country as far as the Saskashawan,
though as they are represented much smaller here
than to the south, they may not reach that river.
Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind
yesterday to bring on the game, did not join us till eight
o'clock this morning, when we set out with the towline, the
use of which the banks permitted. The wind was, however,
ahead, the current strong, particularly round the
points against which it happened to set, and the gullies
from the hills having brought down quantities of stone,
these projected into the river, forming barriers for forty or
fifty feet round, which it was very difficult to pass. At the
distance of two and three quarter miles we passed a small
island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side a
creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water.
About a mile further is an island between two and three
miles in length, separated from the northern shore by a
narrow channel, in which is a sand island at the distance of
half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large island
we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which
is an island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three
and a half miles is another small island, and one mile beyond
it a second three quarters of a mile in length, on the
north side. In the middle of the river two miles above this
is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as this
last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky;
the rock being either a soft brown sandstone, covered
with a thin stratum of limestone, or else a hard black rugged
sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz as well
as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of the
river are composed principally of gravel; the river low
grounds are narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor
is there much pine on the hills. The buffaloe have now become
scarce: we saw a polecat this evening, which was the
first for several days: in the course of the day we also saw
several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep
cliff's on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance
of eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the
next morning,
Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means
of the towline, using our oars merely in passing the river,
to take advantage of the best banks. There are now scarcely
any low grounds on the river, the hills being high and
in many places pressing on both sides to the verge of the
water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone,
which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and
being thrown into the river renders its navigation more difficult
than it was yesterday: above this sandstone, and towards
the summits of the hills, a hard freestone of a yellowish
brown colour shows itself in several stratas of unequal
thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin
stratum of limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted
shells. At eight and a quarter miles we came to the mouth
of a creek on the north, thirty yards wide, with some running
water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor creek,
after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond
this we came to another creek in a bend to the north,
which is twenty yards wide, with a handsome little stream
of water: there is however no timber on either side of the
river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we saw for
the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled
turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season
of the year than to any scarcity of the animal. It was here
north side of the river, that captain Lewis first caught a distant
view of the Rock mountains, the object of all our hopes,
and the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the
river and at no great distance from it, the mountains followed
its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles
from us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves
from west to northwest from his position. To the north of
these a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which
bore north 65° west, appeared above the horizon, and as the
sun shone on the snows of their summits he obtained a clear
and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on
the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half
miles beyond this creek we came to the upper point of a
small sand island. At the distance of five miles between
high bluffs, we passed a very difficult rapid, reaching quite
across the river, where the water is deep, the channel narrow,
and gravel obstructing it on each side: we had great
difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope
and the pole, and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable
rapid on the Missouri, and infact the only place
where there is a sudden descent: as we were labouring over
them, a female elk with its fawn swam down through the
waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place
the name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small
low ground of cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and
a quarter miles we fixed our encampment, and were joined
by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills during the afternoon.
The country has now become desert and barren: the
appearances of coal, burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and
quartz, continue as yesterday: but there is no timber except
the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the summits of
the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have
observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare, common
in this country. In the plain where we lie are two Indian
passed several others in the points of timber on the river.
Monday, 27. The wind was so high that we did not
start till ten o'clock, and even then were obliged to use the
line during the greater part of the day. The river has become
very rapid with a very perceptible descent: its general
width is about two hundred yards: the shoals too are
more frequent, and the rocky points at the mouth of the
gullies more troublesome to pass: great quantities of this
stone lie in the river and on its banks, and seem to have fallen
down as the rain washed away the clay and sand in
which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by
high rugged bluff's, composed of irregular but horizontal
stratas of yellow and brown or black clay, brown and
yellowish white sand, soft yellowish white sandstone: hard
dark brown freestone; and also large round kidney formed
irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded
in the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood
also makes its appearance in the cliffs, as do also its usual
attendants the pumicestone and burnt earth. The salts and
quartz are less abundant, and generally speaking the country
is if possible more rugged and barren than that we passed
yesterday; the only growth of the hills being a few pine,
spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional
contrast once in the course of some miles, of several acres
of level ground, which supply a scanty subsistence for a
few little cottonwood trees.
Soon after setting out we passed a small untimbered
island on the south: at about seven miles we reached a considerable
bend which the river makes towards the southeast,
and in the evening, after making twelve and a half
miles, encamped on the south near two dead cottonwood
trees, the only timber for fuel which we could discover in
the neighbourhood.
Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the
air smoky, and there fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock
thunder, which is the first we have heard since leaving
the Mandans. We employed the line generally, with the
addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which
we find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed
yesterday. The water is very rapid round these points,
and we are sometimes obliged to steer the canoes through
the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches above the surface
of the water, and so near to each other that if our
ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of
the canoe against them, and must inevitably upset them or
dash them to pieces. These cords are very slender, being
almost all made of elkskin, and much worn and rotted by
exposure to the weather: several times they gave way, but
fortunately always in places where there was room for the
canoe to turn without striking the rock; yet with all our
precautions it was with infinite risk and labour that we passed
these points. An Indian pole for building floated down
the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged along the
ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought
down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are
probably at no great distance above us, and judging from a
football which resembles those used by the Minnetarees
near the Mandans, we conjecture that they must be a band
of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of
the river and the surrounding country continued as usual,
till towards evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a
large creek on the north thirty-five yards wide, discharging
some water, and named after one of our men Thompson's
creek. Here the country assumed a totally different
aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which
now spreads to more than three times its former size, and
is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered
with cottonwood. The low grounds on the river are again
wide, fertile, and enriched with trees; those on the north
are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively low and
for a considerable distance towards the north: these appearances
of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills
over which we have passed, and we have now to congratulate
ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the
Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed
two small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance
encamped among some timber on the north, opposite to
a small creek, which we named Bull creek. The bighorn
is in great quantities, and must bring forth their young
at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of
the party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from
the river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would
not venture to fire.
Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new
sort of enemy. A buffaloe swam over from the opposite
side and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over
which he clambered to the shore; then taking fright he ran
full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within
eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the
sentinel could make him change his course: still more alarmed
he ran down between four fires and within a few inches
of the heads of a second row of the men, and would have
broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had not
stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out
of sight in a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one
seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of the alarm. On
learning what had happened, we had to rejoice at suffering no
more injury than the damage to some guns which were in
the canoe which the buffaloe crossed.
In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded
as usual by the cord. We passed an island and two sandbars,
and at the distance of two and a half miles we came to a
handsome river which discharges itself on the south, and
which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half:
we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains
Yellowstone river. Its entrance is one hundred yards wide
from one bank to the other, the water occupying about
seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of the
Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable,
there being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed
entirely of gravel and mud with some sand: the water
too is clearer than any which we have yet seen; and the low
grounds, as far as we could discern, wider and more woody
than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed
some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the
willow; the undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckles,
and a little red willow. There was a great abundance
of the argalea or bighorned animals in the high country
through which it passes, and a great number of the beaver
in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the
fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared
to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days, and on
the other side of the Missouri a large encampment, apparently
made by the same nation. On examining some moccasins
which we found there, our Indian woman said that
they did not belong to her own nation the Snake Indians,
but she thought that they indicated a tribe on this side of
the Rocky mountain, and to the north of the Missouri; indeed
it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of fort
de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the
hills again approach the brink of the river, and the stones
and rocks washed down from them form a very bad rapid,
with rocks and ripples more numerous and difficult than
those we passed on the 27th and 28th: here the same scene
was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to
preserve our small craft from being lost. Near this spot
are a few trees of the ash, the first we have seen for a great
distance, and from which we named the place Ash Rapids.
On these hills there is but little timber, but the salts, coal,
and other mineral appearances continue. On the north we
under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred
carcases of buffaloes, although the water which had
washed away the lower part of the hill must have carried
off many of the dead. These buffaloes had been chased
down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri,
and by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The
mode of hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet
young men, who is disguised by a buffaloe skin round his
body; the skin of the head with the ears and horns fastened
on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe:
thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distance between
a heard of buffaloe and any of the river precipices,
which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions
in the meantime get in the rear and side of the herd, and
at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the
buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters
beside them, they run towards the disguished Indian or
decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the river,
when suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff
which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the
brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost
to retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost
rank, who seeing no danger but from the hunters,
goad on those before them till the whole are precipitated
and the shore is strewed with their dead bodies. Sometimes
in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself either trodden
under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or
missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice
by the falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat
as they wish, and the rest is abandoned to the wolves, and
create a most dreadful stench. The wolves who had been
feasting on these careases were very fat, and so gentle that
one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place
we came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles,
opposite to a bold running river of twenty yards wide, and
we called this stream Slaughter river. Its low grounds
are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon after
landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect
of getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp
on the north, three quarters of a mile above Slaughter river.
After the labours of the day we gave to each man a dram,
and such was the effect of long abstinence from spirituous
liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of rum,
several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all
very much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an
elk and two beaver.
Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening
continued with little intermission till eleven this morning,
when the high wind which accompanied it having abated, we
set out. More rain has now fallen than we have had since the
1st of September last, and many circumstances indicate our
approach to a climate differing considerably from that of the
country through which we have been passing: the air of the
open country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the
case of our sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and
the joints opened, we tried several experiments, by which
it appeared that a tablespoon full of water exposed in a
saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six hours, when
the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point
at the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding
the rain, is much clearer than it was a few days past; but
we advance with great labour and difficulty; the rapid current,
the ripples and rocky points rendering the navigation
more embarrassing than even that of yesterday, in addition
to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that
the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the
earth and stone constantly falling down the high bluffs
make it dangerous to pass under them; still however we
are obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind is strong
ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the
half miles a small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles
further an island on the same side, half a mile beyond which
came to a grove of trees at the entrance of a run in a bend
to the south, and encamped for the night on the northern
shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much
trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable
by the rain, which fell in several slight showers in the
course of the day; our cords too broke several times, but
fortunately without injury to the boats. On ascending the
hills near the river, one of the party found that there was
snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of
these the country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the
river. There is now no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering
cottonwood, ash, box-alder, and willows, along the water.
In the course of the day we passed several encampments
of Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been
evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several apparent
dates we supposed that they were made by a band of
about one hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the
river. Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees
to this place exhibit signs of permanent settlements, yet none
seem exempt from the transient visits of hunting parties.
We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their
excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the
Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side,
most probably as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges
between that place and the Rocky mountains we supposed
to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, who live on
the south fork of the Saskashawan.
Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the
canoes to bring on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening.
Soon after we set off it began to rain, and though it
ceased at noon, the weather continued cloudy during the
rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still remain
and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery
to wear their moccasins; one fourth of the time they are
obliged to be up to their armpits in the cold water, and
sometimes walk for several yards over the sharp fragments
of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this added to
the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful,
yet the men bear it with great patience and good humour.
Once the rope of one of the periogues, the only one we had
made of hemp, broke short, and the periogue swung and just
touched a point of rock which almost overset her. At nine
miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the
water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this
continued about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a
high open plain, till three miles further a second wall two
hundred feet high rose on the same side. Three miles further
a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet high
and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills
and river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic
appearance: they rise in most places nearly perpendicular
from the water, to the height of between two and three hundred
feet, and are formed of very white sandstone, so soft
as to yield readily to the impression of water, in the upper
part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal
stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the
top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending
plain, from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when
the hills again rise abruptly to the height of about three
hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs, the water
has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque
figures, among which with a little fancy may be discerned
elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously
sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries,
while the parapets are adorned with statuary: on a nearer
approach they represent every form of elegant ruins; columns,
some with pedestals and capitals entire, others mutilated
and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each
by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of
desolated magnificence: the allusion is increased by the
number of martins, who have built their globular nests in
the niches and hover over these columns; as in our country
they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As
we advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment
which surrounds us. In the midst of this fantastic
scenery are vast ranges of walls, which seem the productions
of art, so regular is the workmanship: they rise perpendicularly
from the river, sometimes to the height of
one hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve
feet, being equally broad at the top as below. The stones
of which they are formed are black, thick, and durable, and
composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and cemented
with a small quantity of sand, and a considerable proportion
of talk or quartz. These stones are almost invariably
regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but
equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other
like bricks, each breaking and covering the interstice of the
two on which it rests; but though the perpendicular interstice
be destroyed, the horizontal one extends entirely
through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned to
the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being
largest in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed
of a single depth of the paralleliped, while the thicker
ones consist of two or more depths: these walls pass the
river at several places, rising from the water's edge much
above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to penetrate;
thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the
river, the plains over which they tower to the height of
from ten to seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the
second range of hills: sometimes they run parallel in several
ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect each other
at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient
houses or gardens.
The face of some of these river hills, is composed of
very excellent freestone of a light yellowish brown colour,
and among the cliffs we found a species of pine which we
had not yet seen, and differing from the Virginia pitchpine
in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more pointed cone.
The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt
earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated.
Among the animals are a great number of the bighorn, a
few buffaloe and elk, and some mule-deer, but none of the
common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but could not
procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange, yellow,
white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox
of this country, and about the same size as the red fox of the
United States.
The river to-day has been from about one hundred and
fifty to two hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber.
At the distance of two miles and a half from the last
stone wall, is a stream on the north side, twenty-eight
yards in width, and with some running water. We encamped
just above its mouth having made eighteen miles.
Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few
drops of rain. As we proceeded by the aid of our cord we
found the river cliffs and bluffs not so high as yesterday, and
the country more level. The timber too is in greater abundance
on the river, though there is no wood on the high
ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is
from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the
current more gentle, the water becoming still clearer and
fewer rocky points and shoals than we met yesterday, though
those which we did encounter were equally difficult to pass.
Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that we
obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw
in the plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small
lake about eight miles from the river to the south. Notwithstanding
the wind was ahead all day, we dragged the
canoes along the distance of twenty-three miles. At fourteen
bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to
the upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to
another island on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In
the next two miles we passed an island on the south, a second
beyond it on the north, and reached near a high bluff
on the north a third on which we encamped. In the plains
near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red currant-bushes,
as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of
which are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills,
which are lower than usual, we enjoyed a delightful view
of the rich fertile plains on both sides, in many places
extending from the river cliffs to a great distance back. In
these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure sand,
which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and
there deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance
from the river than near its banks, where the surface
of the earth is very generally strewed with small pebbles,
which appear to be smoothed and worn by the agitation of
the waters with which they were no doubt once covered.
A mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the
river within eight or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment
of last evening; and this morning a range of high
mountains bearing S. W. from us and apparently running to
the westward, are seen at a great distance covered with
snow. In the evening we had a little more rain.
Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight
shower of rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at
an early hour, and although the wind was ahead by means
of the cord went on much better than for the last two days,
as the banks were well calculated for towing. The current
of the river is strong but regular, its timber increases in
quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive,
and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the
course of the day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted
think it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose
of making a leathern boat, which we intend constructing
shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the
day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a
bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives of
two of our hunters who were together when he attacked
them; one of them narrowly escaped being caught, and the
other after running a considerable distance, concealed himself
in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick
pursuit of his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately
shot the animal through the head.
At six and a half miles we reached an island on the
northern side; one mile and a quarter thence is a timbered
low ground on the south: and in the next two and three quarter
miles we passed three small islands, and came to a dark
bluff on the south: within the following mile are two small
islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we
reached the lower part of a much larger island near a northern
point, and as we coasted along its side, within two miles
passed a smaller island, and half a mile above reached the
head of another. All these islands are small, and most of
them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile beyond
the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our
encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low
cottonwood plain on the south, where we remained for the
purpose of making some celestial observations during the
night, and of examining in the morning a large river which
comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour,
Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point,
formed by the junction of the river with the Missouri. It
now became an interesting question which of these two
streams is what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza or the
Missouri, which they described as approaching very near
to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the
expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky
we were following did not come near the Columbia, and be
obliged to return; we should not only lose the travelling
season, two months of which had already elapsed, but probably
dishearten the men so much as to induce them either
to abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead
of the warm and zealous support which they had
hitherto afforded us. We determined, therefore, to examine
well before we decided on our future course; and for
this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each
of the streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth,
and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative
bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent
out by land to penetrate the country, and discover from the
rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of the two
rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening.
While they were gone we ascended together the high
grounds in the fork of these two rivers, whence we had a
very extensive prospect of the surrounding country: on
every side it was spread into one vast plain covered with
verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were
roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks
of elk also were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered
with their young over the face of the plain. To the
south was a range of lofty mountains, which we supposed
to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching themselves
from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly
about southwest from us. These were partially covered
with snow; but at a great distance behind them was a
more lofty ridge completely covered with snow, which
seemed to follow the same direction as the first, reaching
from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy
tops were blended with the horizon. The direction of the
rivers could not however be long distinguished, as they were
soon lost in the extent of the plain. On our return we continued
our examination; the width of the north branch is
seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a
gentler current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are
of the same whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness:
they run in the same boiling and rolling manner which has
uniformly characterized the Missouri; and its bed is composed
of some gravel, but principally mud. The south fork
is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its current
is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its
bed too is composed of round and flat smooth stones like
those of rivers issuing from a mountainous country. The air
and character of the north fork so much resemble those of
the Missouri that almost all the party believe that to be the
true course to be pursued. We however, although we have
given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise,
because, although this branch does give the colour and character
to the Missouri, yet these very circumstances induce
an opinion that it rises in and runs through an open plain
country, since if it came from the mountains it would be
clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is
improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground
after leaving them: we thought it probable that it did not
even penetrate the Rocky mountains, but drew it sources from
the open country towards the lower and middle parts of the
Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place. What embarrasses
us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be
well acquainted with the geography of the country, have not
mentioned this northern river; for "the river which scolds
at all others," as it is termed, must be according to their
account one of the rivers which we have passed; and if this
north fork be the Missouri, why have they not designated
the south branch which they must also have passed, in order
to reach the great falls which they mention on the
Missouri. In the evening our parties returned, after ascending
the rivers in canoes for some distance, then continuing
on foot, just leaving themselves time to return by
the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the
north was five feet deep, that of the south six feet. At two
and a half miles up the north fork is a small river coming in
on the left or western side, sixty feet wide, with a bold current
three feet in depth. The party by land had gone up
the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west
for seven miles, where they discovered that this little river
came within one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning
down it found it a handsome stream, with as much
timber as either of the larger rivers, consisting of the narrow
and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and box-alder,
and undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they
also saw on this river a great number of elk and some
beaver.
All these accounts were however very far from deciding
the important question of our future route, and we therefore
determined each of us to ascend one of the rivers during
a day and a half's march, or farther if necessary, for our
satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six elk, and
four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are
to be found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry
is also very abundant in the river low grounds, as
well as the ravines along the river bluffs; the yellow and red
currants are not yet ripe; the gooseberry is beginning to
ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all the low grounds
near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the last few
days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of
the men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had
their feet much bruised and mangled in passing over the
stones and rough ground. They are however perfectly
cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the expedition.
Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain
Lewis and captain Clarke set out to explore the two
rivers; captain Lewis with six men crossed the north fork
course N. 30° W. for four and a half miles to a commanding
eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain,
changing its direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards
the north and terminated abruptly at the distance of
about thirty miles, the point of termination bearing N. 48° E.
The South mountain too diverges to the south, and terminates
abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8° W. distant about
twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this extremity,
is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five
miles in a direction S. 38° W. which from its resemblance
to the roof of a barn, we called the Barn mountain. The
north fork, which is now on the left, makes a considerable
bend to the northwest, and on its western border a range of
hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot N.
60° W. runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is
an elevated point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing
N. 72° W. about twelve miles from us; towards this he directed
his course across a high, level, dry open plain; which
in fact embraces the whole country to the foot of the mountains.
The soil is dark, rich, and fertile, yet the grass by
no means so luxuriant as might have been expected, for it
is short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the
ground. There are vast quantities of prickly pears, and
myriads of grasshoppers, which afford food for a species of
curlew which is in great numbers in the plain. He then proceeded
up the river to the point of observation they had fixed
on; from which he went two miles N. 15° W. to a bluff point
on the north side of the river: thence his course was N. 30° W.
for two miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south.
The part of the river along which he passed is from forty
to sixty yards wide, the current strong, the water deep and
turbid, the banks falling in, the salts, coal and mineral appearances
are as usual, and in every respect, except as to
size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds
are narrow but well supplied with wood: the bluffs are principally
freestone in some places. From this point the river bore
N. 20° E. to a bluff on the south, at the distance of twelve
miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending the
hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing
through plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines
so steep and numerous that he resolved to return to the
river and follow its banks. He reached it about four miles
from the beginning of his course, and encamped on the
north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the
party from the wind: the air was very cold, the northwest
wind high, and the rain wet them to the skin. Besides the
game just mentioned, he observed buffaloe, elk, wolves,
foxes, and we got a blaireau and a weasel, and wounded a
large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue. Along
the river are immense quantities of roses which are now in
full bloom, and which make the low grounds a perfect garden.
Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of
the last night, and in the morning the weather was cloudy
and cold, with a high northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded
up the river eight miles to the bluff on the left
side, towards which he had been directing his course yesterday.
Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards
wide at the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding
the rain: it is, indeed, astonishing to observe
the vast quantities of water absorbed by the soil of the
plains, which being opened in large crevices presents a fine
rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called
Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river
so that he ascended them, and crossing the plains reached
the river, which from the last point bore N. 50° W: four miles
from this place it extended north two miles. Here he discovered
a lofty mountain standing alone at the distance of
more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30° W. and
which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain.
courses six miles, when he again changed for a western
course across a deep bend along the south side: in making
this passage over the plains he found them like those
of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities of
buffaloe, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected
near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance
of from one to nine miles from the river, he met the largest
village of barking squirrels which we had yet seen: for he
passed a skirt of their territory for seven miles. He also
saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or a large
species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the Indians
below had informed us were common among the
Rock mountains. Having finished his course of ten miles
west across a bend, he continued two miles N. 80° W. and
from that point discovered some lofty mountains to the
northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65° W.
at eighty or one hundred miles distance: here he encamped
on the north side in a handsome low ground, on which were
several old stick lodges: there had been but little timber on
the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is a
greater quantity than usual. The river itself is about eighty
yards wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a strong steady
current. The party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer;
and by way of experiment roasted the burrowing squirrels,
which they found to be well flavoured and tender.
Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this
river pursued a direction too far north for our route to the
Pacific, and therefore resolved to return; but waited till
noon to take a meridian altitude. The clouds, however,
which had gathered during the latter part of the night continued
and prevented the observation: part of the men were
sent forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70°
W; from which they saw at the distance of about fifteen
miles S. 80° W. a point of the south bluff of the river, which
thence bore northwardly. In their absence two rafts had
party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so
small and slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore
it was necessary to abandon them, and go by land. They
therefore crossed the plains, and at the distance of twelve
miles came to the river, through a cold storm from the
northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness
of the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles,
to leave the river and meet the storm in the plains. Here
they directed their course too far northward, in consequence
of which they did not meet the river till late at
night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon,
and halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek.
They had the good fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied
them with supper: but spent a very uncomfortable
night without any shelter from the rain, which continued
till morning,
Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down
the river. The route was extremely unpleasant, as the wind
was high from the N. E. accompanied with rain, which made
the ground so slippery that they were unable to walk over
the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river.
The land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding
all the rain which has fallen, the earth is not wet
for more than two inches deep, and resembles thawed ground;
but if it requires more water to saturate it than the common
soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with equal difficulty.
In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a narrow
pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and
but for a fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon,
would have been precipitated into the river over a precipice
of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where by
the assistance of his espontoon he could stand with tolerable
safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry out, good
God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found
it was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle
of the precipice where he lay on his belly, with his right arm
and leg over the precipice, while with the other leg and arm
he was with difficulty holding on to keep himself from being
dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was instantly
perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly
told him that he was in no danger; that he should take
his knife out of his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole
in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great
presence of mind he did this, and then raised himself on his
knees; captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins
and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the knife
in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled
in this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who
had not attempted this passage, were ordered to return and
wade the river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the
water breast high. This adventure taught them the danger
of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as the
plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult
to pass, they continued down the river, sometimes in the
mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their arms in the
water, and when it became too deep to wade, they cut footholds
with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way
they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having
made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in
an old Indian lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter.
Here they cooked part of six deer they had killed in
the course of their walk, and having eaten the only morsel
they had tasted during the whole day slept comfortably on
some willow boughs.
| CHAPTER IX. History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. | |