History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed during the years 1804-5-6. By order of the government of the United States. |
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| II. |
| III. |
| IV. |
| V. |
| VI. | CHAPTER VI. |
| VII. |
| VIII. |
| IX. |
| X. |
| XI. |
| XII. |
| XIII. |
| XIV. |
| XV. |
| XVI. |
| XVII. |
 | CHAPTER VI. History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. |  |
CHAPTER VI.
The party increase in the favour of the Mandans—Description of a buffaloe
dance—Medicine dance—The fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity
of the season—Distress of the party for want of provisions—The great
importance of the blacksmith in procuring it—Depredations of the Sioux—
The homage paid to the medicine stone—Summary act of justice among
the Minnetarees—The process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make
beads—Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the
rivers, creeks, islands, &c.
Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night,
the frost severe, and the snow drifting in great quantities
through the plains.
Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly
one quarter of an inch in depth, which continued to fall
till the sun had gained some height: the mercury at sunrise
stood at 9° below 0: there were a number of Indians at
the fort in the course of the day.
Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer
20° below 0. We killed one deer, and yesterday one
of the men shot a wolf. The Indians brought corn, beans,
and squashes, which they very readily gave for getting their
axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct during
these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any
small article.
Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind
which covered the ice with hillocks of mixed sand and snow:
the day was however fine, and the Indians came in great
numbers for the purpose of having their utensils repaired.
Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed
by two shot from the swivel and a round of small arms.
The weather was cloudy but moderate; the mercury which
at sunrise was at 18°, in the course of the day rose to 34°
above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at night we
morning we permitted sixteen men with their music to go
up to the first village, where they delighted the whole tribe
with their dances, particularly with the movements of one
of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In return they
presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and
quantities of corn. We were desirous of showing this attention
to the village, because they had received an impression
that we had been wanting in regard for them, and
because they had in consequence circulated inviduous comparisons
between us and the northern traders: all these
however they declared to captain Clarke, who visited them
in the course of the morning, were made in jest. As captain
Clarke was about leaving the village, two of their chiefs
returned from a mission to the Grosventres or wandering
Minnetarees. These people were encamped about ten miles
above, and while there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen
a Minnetaree girl: the whole nation immediately espoused
the quarrel, and one hundred and fifty of their warriors were
marching down to revenge the insult on the Ahnahaways.
The chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher, and
giving her to the Mandans requested their intercession.
The messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered
the young damsel into the hands of her countrymen,
smoked the pipe of peace with them, and were fortunate
enough to avert their indignation and induce them to return.
In the evening some of the men came to the fort and the
rest slept in the village. Pocapsahe also visited us and
brought some meat on his wife's back.
Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during
this day the same scene of gayety was renewed at the
second village, and all the men returned in the evening.
Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this
morning we had some snow: our hunters were sent out for
buffaloe, but the game had been frightened from the river
by the Indians, so that they obtained only one: they however
was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been
much abused and came here for protection, but returned
with him, as we had no authority to separate those whom
even the Mandan rites had united.
Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury
being 28° above 0: but towards evening the wind changed
to northwest, and the weather became cold. We sent
some hunters down the river, but they killed only one buffaloe
and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami who is
very friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two
files.
Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night
and this morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs
with grain of different kinds. In the first village there has
been a buffaloe dance for the last three nights, which has
put them all into commotion, and the description which we
received from those of the party who visited the village
and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the buffaloe
dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit
of the old men and practised at their suggestion. When
buffaloe becomes scarce they send a man to harangue the
village, declaring that the game is far off and that a feast
is necessary to bring it back, and if the village be disposed
a day and place is named for the celebration of it. At the
appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves
crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge
with a sort of doll or small image, dressed like a female,
placed before them. The young men bring with them a
platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco, and their wives,
whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle loosely
thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects
the old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour,
and spreads before him the provisions, after which he presents
the pipe and smokes with him. Mox senex vir simulacrum
parvæ puellæ ostensit. Tune egrediens cætu, jecit
Hoe est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit,
et jactu corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus
appropinquans senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem
et dignitatem ejus conservare amplexu uxoris illum oravit.
Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine, maritus multis precibus,
multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer intercessit.
Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus,
tot lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit.
Multum ille jactatus est, sed debilis et effœtus senectute,
frustra jactatus est. Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit
multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic conservata. Unus nostrum
sodalium multum alacrior et potentior juventute, hae
nocte honorem quartuor maritorum custodivit.
Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we
caught in a trap a large gray wolf, and last night obtained
in the same way a fox who had for some time infested the
neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians visited us
to-day.
Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with
a high northwest wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22°
below 0: the river fell an inch. Shahaka the Big White chief
dined with us, and gave a connected sketch of the country
as far as the mountains.
Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the
day cold, and we received few Indians at the fort. Besides
the buffaloe dance we have just described, there is another
called medicine dance, an entertainment given by any person
desirious of doing honour to his medicine or genius. He
announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses,
or other property, and invites the young females of the village
to assist in rendering homage to his medicine; all the
inhabitants may join in the solemnity, which is performed
in the open plain and by daylight, but the dance is reserved
for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who disdain
the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast
to his medicine, which is represented by a head of the animal
itself, or by a medicine bag if the deity be an invisible
being. The young women then begin the dance, in the intervals
of which each will prostrate herself before the assembly
to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth,
who are often tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction
to achieve the adventure.
Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer
at sunrise 21° below 0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and
captain Clarke with three or four men accompanied him
and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they were so fortunate
as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were incommoded
by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme
cold: several of the Indians came to the fort nearly frozen,
others are missing, and we are uneasy, for one of our men
who was separated from the rest during the chase has not
returned: In the morning,
Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were
sending out five men in search of him. The night had been
excessively cold, and this morning at sunrise the mercury
stood at 40° below 0, or 72 below the freezing point. He
had, however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably warm.
A young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in
soon after. His father who came last night to inquire after
him very anxiously, had sent him in the afternoon to the
fort: he was overtaken by the night, and was obliged to
sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope
skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe robe: his
feet being frozen we put them into cold water, and gave
him every attention in our power. About the same time an
Indian who had also been missing returned to the fort, and
although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow
without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience.
We have indeed observed that these Indians support the rigours
of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought
the warm interest which the situation of these two persons
had excited in the village, the boy had been a prisoner and
adopted from charity, yet the distress of the father proved
that he felt for him the tenderest affection, the man was a
person of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of
anxiety for his safety, and when they came to us, borrowed a
sleigh to bring them home with ease, if they survived, or to
carry their bodies if they had perished.
Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the
same number whom we had sent below about seven miles
to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the weather to-day was
cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38° below 0.
Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the night
at the fort.
Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury
at sunrise being 20° below 0. Three of the hunters returned,
having killed three elk.
Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather,
and the cold has increased, the mercury having sunk to 34°
below 0. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down
the river to hunt for several days; in these excursions men,
women and children, with their dogs, all leave the village
together, and after discovering a spot convenient for the
game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the
labour, and the game is equally divided among the families
of the tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chace
with more than is necessary for his own immediate consumption,
the neighbours are entitled by custom to a share of it:
they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who without
saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till
the master understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously
a part for her family. Chaboneau who with one man had
gone to some lodges of Minnetarees near the Turtle mountain,
returned with their faces much frostbitten. They had
some meat and grease, with which they loaded the
horses. He informs us that the agent of the Hudson bay
company at that place, had been endeavouring to make unfavourable
impressions with regard to us on the mind of
the great chief, and that the N. W. company intend building
a fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken
slightly of the Americans, but said that if we would give
him our great flag he would come and see us.
Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the
river on their hunting party, and were joined by six of our
men. One of those sent on Thursday returned, with information
that one of his companions had his feet so badly frostbitten
that he could not walk home. In their excursion
they had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white
hare. The weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury
being at 16° below 0, and the wind from the S. E. we
had however some snow, after which it remained cloudy.
Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday,
and the snow begins to melt, though the wind after being
for some time from the S. E. suddenly shifted to N. W.
Between twelve and three o'clock A. M. there was a total
eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the
observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude.
We were visited by four of the most distinguished men
of the Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions,
as we knew that they had been taught to entertain strong
prejudices against us; these we succeeded so well in removing,
that when in the morning,
Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six
were chiefs came to see us, the Minnetarees reproached
them with their falsehoods, declaring that they were bad
men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the Minnetarees
that we would kill them if they came to the fort,
yet on the contrary they had spent a night there and been
them and danced for their amusement. Kagohami visited
us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards one of
the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied
by his squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous
we should use during the night. He favoured us with a more
acceptable present, a draft of the Missouri in his manner,
and informed us of his intention to go to war in the spring
against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect seriously
before he committed the peace of his nation to the
hazards of war; to look back on the numerous nations whom
war has destroyed, that if he wished his nation to be happy
he should cultivate peace and intercourse with all his neighbours,
by which means they would procure more horses, increase
in numbers, and that if he went to war he would displease
his great father the president, and forfeit his protection.
We added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes
whom we had met, that they had all opened their ears, and
that the president would compel those who did not voluntarily
listen to his advice. Although a young man of only
twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him.
He observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would
not go to war, since he had horses enough, and that he would
advise all the nation to remain at home, until we had seen
the Snake Indians, and discovered whether their intentions
were pacific. The party who went down with the horses for
the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to
find his complaint not serious.
Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north;
the morning clear and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being
at 0: we had several Indians with us.
Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs.
Laroche and M'Kenzie, two of the N. W. company's traders,
visited us with some of the Minnetarees. In the afternoon
two of our hunters returned, having killed four wolves and
a blaireau.
Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set
out on their return, and we sent two men with the horses
thirty miles below to the hunting camp.
Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians
visit us with corn to exchange for articles, and to pay for
repairs to their household utensils.
Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The
hunters all returned, having killed during their absence
three elk, four deer, two porcupines, a fox and a hare.
Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day
pleasant, we attempted to cut the boats out of the ice, but
at the distance of eight inches came to water, under which
the ice became three feet thick, so that we were obliged to
desist.
Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury
having sunk 2° below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep.
Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have
had lately, the thermometer being at 12° below 0. The hunters
whom we sent out returned unsuccessful, and the rest
were occupied in cutting wood to make charcoal.
Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25° below 0, the
wind from N. W. and the day fair, so that the men were employed
in preparing coal, and cutting the boats out of the ice.
A band of Assiniboins headed by their chief, called by the
French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the villages.
Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians
dine with us: and one of our men is attacked with a violent
pleurisy.
Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again
attempted to get the boat out of the ice. The man who
has the pleurisy was blooded and sweated, and we were
forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who was frostbitten
some time since. Our interpreter returned from the
villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses
which he had sent in order to keep them out of the way of
the Assiniboins, who are very much disposed to steal, and
who have just returned to their camp.
Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we
are obliged to abandon the plan of cutting the boat through
the ice, and therefore made another attempt the next day,
Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to
warm the water in the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice:
but in this too we were disappointed, as all the stones on being
put into the fire cracked into pieces: the weather warm
and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is recovering.
Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards
became cloudy. Mr. Laroche the trader from the northwest
company paid us a visit, in hopes of being able to accompany
us on our journey westward, but this proposal we thought
it best to decline.
Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is
cold and disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest:
we sent five hunters down the river. Another man is taken
with the pleurisy.
Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned
having killed only one deer. One of the Minnetaree
war chiefs, a young man named Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing
Snake, came to see us and procure a war hatchet: he
also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against
the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time
ago: this we refused for reasons which we explained to him.
He acknowledged that we were right, and promised to open
his ears to our counsels.
Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr.
Laroche who has been very anxious to go with us left the
fort to-day, and one of the squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter
is taken ill.
Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed
in all our efforts to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves
in making iron spikes so as to prize them up by means of
long poles.
Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at
sunrise being 18° below 0, and the wind from the northwest.
December being now nearly exhausted, it became necessary
to renew our supply; captain Clarke therefore took eighteen
men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended
the river for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has disappeared
from our neighbourhood, and the Indians are
themselves suffering for want of meat. Two deer were killed
to-day but they were very lean.
Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from
northwest: a number of the Indians come with corn for the
blacksmith, who being now provided with coal has become
one of our greatest resources for procuring grain. They
seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a very inconvenient
figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely
thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the
point and five or six inches on each side, whence they converge
towards the eye, which is circular and about an inch
in diameter, the blade itself being not more than an inch
wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or fifteen inches
long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of ornament,
the blade is perforated with several circular holes.
The length of the blade compared with the shortness of the
handle render it a weapon of very little strength, particularly
as it is always used on horseback: there is still however
another form which is even worse, the same sort of handle
being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon.
Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant,
the wind N. W. A number of Indian chiefs visited us
and withdrew after we had smoked with them contrary to
their custom, for after being once introduced into our apartment
they are fond of lounging about during the remainder
of the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our
blacksmith has his time completely occupied, so great is the
demand for utensils of different kinds. The Indians are particularly
fond of sheet iron, out of which they form points
for arrows and instruments for scraping hides, and when
for every piece of four inches square seven or eight
gallons of corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the
exchange.
Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer
than for some days, the thermometer being at 18° above 0,
and the wind from the S. E. A number of Indians continue
to visit us; but learning that the interpreter's squaws had
been accustomed to unbar the gate during the night, we ordered
a lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in
the fort all night, nor any person admitted during the hours
when the gate is closed, that is from sunset to sunrise.
Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S. E. winds.
Pocopsahe came down to the fort with a bow, and apologized
for his not having finished a shield which he had promised
captain Lewis, and which the weather had prevented
him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness,
intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country,
and he might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts
to civilize the nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are
very much in want of meat, and that he himself had not
tasted any for several days. To this distress they are often
reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy
situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat,
their corn, beans, and other grain being reserved for summer,
or as a last resource against what they constantly dread,
an attack from the Sioux, who drive off the game and confine
them to their villages. The same fear too prevents their
going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their occasional
wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large
quantities, and wasted by carelessness.
Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind
from the S. E. Mr. M Kenzie from the N. W. company
establishment visited us.
Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night,
the morning was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so
day was cooler than yesterday, when it was only 10° above
the same point. Mr. M'Kenzie left us, and Chaboneau returned
with information that our horses loaded with meat
were below, but could not cross the ice not being shod.
Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve
the horses from their loads; the weather fair and cold, with
a N. W. wind. About five o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau
was delivered of a boy; this being her first child she
was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told captain
Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her
situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which
had never failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of
the rattle, captain Lewis gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled
two of the rings of it between his fingers, and mixing
it with a small quantity of water gave it to her. What effect
it may really have had it might be difficult to determine,
but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken
it more than ten minutes before the delivery took place.
Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury
being 14° below 0, the wind from the S. E. About
four o'clock the horses were brought in much fatigued; on
giving them meal bran moistened with water they would
not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which
as is already observed forms their principal food during the
winter. The horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by
the Sioux, Ricaras, and Assiniboins, that the invariable rule
now is to put the horses every night in the same lodge with
the family. In the summer they ramble in the plains in the
vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but during cold
weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they
are wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of
the tender branches, which are also brought into the lodges
at night and placed near them. These animals are very severely
treated; for whole days they are pursuing the buffaloe,
or burdened with the fruits of the chace, during which
allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal
sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely
deficient either in flesh or vigour.
Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer
at 2° below 0, the wind from the southeast. Captain
Clarke returned last evening with all his hunting party:
during their excursion they had killed forty deer, three
buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean
for use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at
night as their own, had appropriated a large part of it: when
he left the fort on the 4th instant, he descended on the ice
twenty-two miles to New Mandan island, near some of their
old villages, and encamped, having killed nothing, and therefore
without food for the night.
Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two
buffaloe and a deer, but the last only could be used, the
others being too lean. After breakfast they proceeded down
to an Indian lodge and hunted during the day: the next
morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort
on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest
side, which they call Hunting creek, and during this and
the following day hunted through all the adjoining plains,
with much success, having killed a number of deer and elk.
On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with the horses
to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for
use were brought to a point of the river three miles below,
and after the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of
logs, so as to keep off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who
are very numerous and constantly disappoint the hunter of
his prey; they then went to the low grounds near the Chisshetaw
river where they encamped, but saw nothing except
some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too
poor to be worth hunting. The next morning 9th, as there
was no game and it would have been inconvenient to send it
back sixty-miles to the fort, they returned up the river, and
the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having
walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through
the snow in many places knee deep, the moccasins too being
nearly worn out: the only game which they saw besides
what is mentioned, was some growse on the sandbars in the
river.
Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep;
the day was, however, fine. Four men were despatched with
sleds and three horses to bring up the meat which had been
collected by the hunters. They returned however, with intelligence
that about twenty-one miles below the fort a
party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed
to be Sioux, rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and
carried off two of the horses, the third being given up by
intercession of an Indian who seemed to possess some authority
over them; they also took away two of the men's
knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned.
We sent up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to
know whether any of them would join a party which intended
to pursue the robbers in the morning. About twelve
o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all their
young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns
in the village. Several Indians however, armed some with
bows and arrows, some with spears and battle-axes, and two
with fusils, accompanied captain Lewis, who set out,
Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning
was fine and cool, the thermometer being at 16° below 0.
In the course of the day one of the Mandan chiefs returned
from captain Lewis's party, his eye-sight having become
so bad that he could not proceed. At this season of the
year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to
occasion almost total blindness. This complaint is very
common, and the general remedy is to sweat the part affected
by holding the face over a hot stone, and receiving
the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red fox was killed
to-day.
Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32°
above 0, the weather cloudy: several of the Indians who
went with captain Lewis returned, as did also one of our men,
whose feet had been frostbitten.
Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though
in the afternoon it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son
same to see us, with about thirty pounds of dried buffaloe
meat and some tallow.
Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow,
but in the latter part of the day it cleared up. Mr. M'Kenzie
who had spent yesterday at the fort now left us. Our
stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must confine ourselves
to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the party:
for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and
the following day,
Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn
from the Indians who came in great numbers to see us.
The weather was fair and warm, the wind from the south.
Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the
mercury being at sunrise 2° and in the course of the day 22°
above 0, the wind southerly. Kagohami came down to see
us early: his village is afflicted by the death of one of their
eldest men, who from his account to us must have seen one
hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dying, he
requested his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe
when he was dead, and then carry him on a hill and seat
him on a stone, with his face down the river towards their
old villages, that he might go straight to his brother who
had passed before him to the ancient village under ground.
We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a
great age; chiefly however the men, whose robust exercises
fortify the body, while the laborious occupations of the
women shorten their existence.
Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same
pleasant weather. Oheenaw and Shahaka came down to see
us, and mentioned that several of their countrymen had
the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle
of the Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with
implicit confidence. Every spring, and on some occasions
during the summer, a deputation visits the sacred spot,
where there is a thick porous stone twenty feet in circumference,
with a smooth surface. Having reached the place
the ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies,
who alternately take a whiff themselves and then present the
pipe to the stone; after this they retire to an adjoining wood
for the night, during which it may be safely presumed that
all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning they read
the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone,
which those who made them are at no loss to decypher.
The Minnetarees have a stone of a similar kind, which has
the same qualities and the same influence over the nation.
Captain Lewis returned from his excursion in pursuit of the
Indians. On reaching the place where the Sioux had stolen
our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair of
moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux.
The party then followed the Indian tracks till they reached
two old lodges where they slept, and the next morning pursued
the course of the river till they reached some Indian
camps, where captain Clarke passed the night some time
ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little
corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they
were Ricaras. From this point the Sioux tracks left the
river abruptly and crossed into the plains; but perceiving
that there was no chance of overtaking them, captain Lewis
went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left some
meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then
hunted in the low grounds on the river, till he returned with
about three thousand pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled
by fifteen of the men, and the rest on horseback; having
killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf.
Friday, 22d. The morning was cloudy and a little snow
fell, but in the afternoon the weather became fair. We were
visited by a number of Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora,
a chief of much consideration among the Mandans,
although by birth a Ricara.
Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having
worked industriously yesterday and all this morning we
were enabled to disengage one of the periogues and haul
it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second. The
father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and
whom we had now cured, came to-day and carried him
home in a sleigh.
Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded
in loosening the second periogue and barge, though
we found a leak in the latter. The whole of the next day,
Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the
boats on the bank: the smallest one we carried there with
no difficulty, but the barge was too heavy for our elk-skin
ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by Orupsehara,
or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who
brought us presents of meat on the backs of their squaws,
and one of the Minnetarees requested and obtained permission
for himself and his two wives to remain all night
in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant.
Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour
during the day we got all the boats on the bank by sunset,
an operation which attracted a great number of Indians
to the fort.
Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us
employed in preparing tools to build boats for our voyage,
as we find that small periogues will be much more convenient
than the barge in ascending the Missouri.
Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen
men were sent out to examine the country for trees suitable
for boats, and were successful in finding them. Two of the
N. W. company traders arrived with letters; they had likewise
mad dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on
high grounds and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is
to scarify the wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the
chewed or pounded root, which is to be renewed twice a day;
the patient must not however chew or swallow any of the
root, as an inward application might be rather injurious
than beneficial.
Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived
from the Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony
Tabeau. This last gentleman informs us that the Ricaras
express their determination to follow our advice, and to
remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom
they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether
these nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them,
and form a league against their common enemies the Sioux.
On mentioning this to the Mandans they agreed to it, observing
that they always desired to cultivate friendship with
the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and Minnetarees have
the same friendly views.
Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we
had seen was well disposed to us, owing to the influence of
their chief the Black Buffaloe; but that the three upper
bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons, and the Yanktons of the
north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this quarter, with
a resolution to put to death every white man they encounter.
Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed
the Sioux against the Chippeways, who have lately put to
death three of his men. The men who had stolen our horses
we found to be all Sioux, who after committing the outrage
went to the Ricara villages, where they said that they had
hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses,
but that in future they would put to death any of us they
could, as we were bad medicines and deserved to be killed.
The Ricaras were displeased at their conduct and
the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence.
Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is
engaged, some in making ropes and periogues, others in burning
coal, and making battle axes to sell for corn.
Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N. W. company's traders
has just arrived with merchandize from the British establishments
on the Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the
river begins to break up in some places, the mercury being
between 28° and 36° above 0, and the wind from the N. E.
We were visited by several Indians.
Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E.
with clouds; in the afternoon the clouds disappeared and the
wind came from the N. W. The men are all employed in
preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe and several
other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the
river to-day.
Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N. W. wind, the latter
part of the day clear. We had again some Indian visitors
with a small present of meat. The Assiniboins, who a few
days since visited the Mandans, returned, and attempted to
take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a circumstance
which may occasion some disturbance between
the two nations.
Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was
a slight fall of snow, but the day became clear and pleasant
with the mercury 40° above 0. We sent down an Indian and
a Frenchman to the Ricara villages with a letter to Mr.
Tabeau.
Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence
of the burning of the plains by the Minnetarees;
they have set all the neighbouring country on fire in order
to obtain an early crop of grass which may answer for the
consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement for
the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen
two days ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the
village came to see us. The river rose a little and overran
the ice, so as to render the crossing difficult.
Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and
colder than usual; the wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora
visited us with a sick child, to whom some medicine
was administered. There were also other Indians who
brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's
work.
Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly
wind: we were visited by two Indians who gave us an account
of the country and people near the Rocky mountains
where they had been.
Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from
the north. The grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called
by the French Le Borgne, from his having but one eye,
came down for the first time to the fort. He was received
with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of his
arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said
that he had not received the presents which we had sent to
him on his arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt,
armbraces and the usual presents on such occasions, with all
which he was much pleased. In the course of the conversation,
the chief observed that some foolish young men of his
nation had told him there was a person among us who was
quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We
assured him that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne
was very much surprised at his appearance, examined him
closely, and spit on his finger and rubbed the skin in order
to wash off the paint; nor was it until the negro uncovered
his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne could
be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.
Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief
of the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetaree chief Ompschara,
passed the day with us, and the former remained during the
night. We had occasion to see an instance of the summary
the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief
of the upper village of the Mandans; the father went to the
village and found his daughter, whom he brought home,
and took with him a horse belonging to the offender: this
reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of the nation,
as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse,
which from that time became the property of the injured
party. The stealing of young women is one of the most common
offences against the police of the village, and the punishment
of it always measured by the power or the passions
of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of
course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the
Borgne deserted him in favour of a man who had been her
lover before the marriage, and who after some time left
her, and she was obliged to return to her father's house.
As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked there and found
her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he began
to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the
old men of the village, who knowing his temper had followed
in hopes of appeasing him. He continued to smoke quietly
with them, till rising to return, he took his wife by
the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single stroke
of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes:
then turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if
any of her relations wished to avenge her, they might always
find him at his lodge; but the fate of the woman had
not sufficient interest to excite the vengeance of the family.
The caprice or the generosity of the same chief gave a very
different result to a similar incident which occurred some
time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young
man, who not being able to support her as she wished they
both returned to the village, and she presented herself before
the husband, supplicating his pardon for her conduct:
the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment when the
youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief
each other; and on their declaring that want, and not a
change of affection had induced them to return, he gave up
his wife to her lover, with the liberal present of three horses,
and restored them both to his favour.
Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning
and a little snow fell, the wind then shifted from southeast
to northwest and the day became fair. It snowed again in
the evening, but the next day,
Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest.
Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind.
Mr. M'Kenzie came to see us, as did also many Indians who
are so anxious for battle-axes that our smiths have not a
moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance of corn. The
river rose a little to-day, and so continued.
Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the
day fine, the whole party were employed in building boats
and in shelling corn.
Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We
take advantage of the fine weather to hang all our Indian
presents and other articles out to dry before our departure.
Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the
southeast. A Mr. Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a
long time among the Ricaras and Mandans, explained to us
the mode in which they make their large beads, an art
which they are said to have derived from some prisoners
of the Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is
a secret even now confined to a few among the Mandans
and Ricaras: the process is as follows: glass of different colours
is first pounded fine and washed, till each kind, which
is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown over it:
some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of
sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to
heat, and reduced by water to the consistency of dough, is
then rolled on the palm of the hand, till it becomes of the
thickness wanted for the hole in the bead: these sticks of
the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed
over a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire
for a few minutes, when they are taken off to cool: with
a little paddle or shovel three or four inches long and sharpened
at the end of the handle, the wet pounded glass is
placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an
oblong form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick
of clay which is laid crosswise over it, and gently rolled
backwards and forwards till it becomes perfectly smooth.
If it be desired to introduce any other colour, the surface
of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of the paddle
and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the
sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their
pedestals, and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot
embers: over the platter an earthern pot containing about
three gallons, with a mouth large enough to cover the platter,
is reversed, being completely closed except a small
aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead:
a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough
or paste is placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and
afterwards set on fire: the manufacturer then looks through
the small hole in the pot, till he sees the beads assume a
deep red colour, to which succeeds a paler or whitish red,
or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on which
the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually:
at length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the
hollow of them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is
then fit for use. The beads thus formed are in great demand
among the Indians, and used as pendants to their ears and
hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck.
Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the
river rising a little and open in several places. Our Minnetaree
interpreter Chaboneau, whom we intended taking
with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked
us, except on certain terms; such as his not being
subject to our orders, and do duty, or to return whenever he
chose. As we saw clearly the source of his hesitation, and
knew that it was intended as an obstacle to our views, we
told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we
could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us
with some displeasure. Since then he had made an advance
towards joining us, which we showed no anxiety to meet;
but this morning he sent an apology for his improper conduct,
and agreed to go with us and perform the same duties
as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into
our service.
Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind
from the north. We were engaged in packing up the goods
into eight divisions, so as to preserve a portion of each in
case of accident. We hear that the Sioux have lately attacked
a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the Assiniboin
river, and killed fifty of them.
Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning
was cold, windy, and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came
down to see us, as did another Indian with a sick child, to
whom we gave some medicine. There appears to be an approaching
war, as two parties have already gone from the
Minnetarees, and a third is preparing.
Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind
high from the north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The
canoes being finished, four of them were carried down to the
river, at the distance of a mile and a half from where they
were constructed.
Thursday 21. The remaining periogues were hauled to
the same place, and all the men except three, who were left
to watch them returned to the fort. On his way down,
which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed along the
points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of pumicestone
every appearance of having been at some period on fire. He
collected specimens of the stone itself, the pumicestone,
and the hard earth; and on being put into the furnace the
hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone melted, and
the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed.
| CHAPTER VI. History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. | |