History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed during the years 1804-5-6. By order of the government of the United States. |
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| III. | CHAP. III. |
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 | CHAP. III. History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. |  |
CHAP. III.
Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians—Council held with the
Sioux—Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.—A ridiculous instance of
their heroism—Ancient fortifications—Quicurre river described—Vast herds
of Buffaloe—Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog—Narrow escape of
George Shannon—Description of Whiteriver—Surprising fleetness of the Antelope
—Pass the river of the Sioux—Description of the Grand Le Tour, or
Great Bend—Encamp on the Teton river.
August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men,
went to see an object deemed very extraordinary among all
the neighbouring Indians. They dropped down to the mouth
of Whitestone river, about thirty yards wide, where they
left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred yards, ascended
a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself
as far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles,
they crossed the creek where it is twenty-three yards wide,
and waters an extensive valley. The heat was so oppressive
that we were obliged to send back our dog to the creek, as
he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not till after
four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.
This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N.
20° W. from the mouth of Whitestone river, from which
it is nine miles distant. The base of the mound is a regular
parallelogram, the longest side being about three hundred
yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the longest side it
rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to the
height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a
level plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length.
The north and south extremities are connected by two oval
borders which serve as new bases, and divide the whole side
into three steep but regular gradations from the plain. The
only thing characteristic in this hill is its extreme symmetry,
and this, together with its being totally detached from
miles, would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the
earth and the loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged
exactly like the steep grounds on the borders of the creek,
we concluded from this similarity of texture that it might
be natural. But the Indians have made it a great article
of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little People,
or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of
little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches
high and with remarkably large heads; they are armed with
sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are always
on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood
to approach their residence. The tradition is, that
many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among
others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few
years since. This has inspired all the neighbouring nations,
Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration
could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of
these wicked little spirits; nor any place for them, except
some small holes scattered over the top: we were happy
enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some
time on the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the
plain, which spreads itself out till the eye rests upon the N.
W. hills at a great distance, and those of the N. E. still farther
off, enlivened by large herds of buffaloe feeding at
a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly fine;
there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the
wood of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover
thickly one hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds
this mound has contributed not a little to its bad reputation:
the wind driving from every direction over the level
ground obliges the insects to seek shelter on its leeward side,
or be driven against us by the wind. The small birds, whose
food they are, resort of course in great numbers in quest of
subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual
assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural
in looking for insects, and so gentle that they did not fly until
we got within a few feet of them. We have also distinguished
among the numerous birds of the plain, the blackbird,
the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about
the size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat
and thirst forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the
nearest water, which we found in the creek, at three miles
distance, and remained an hour and a half. We then went
down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in width,
and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached
it in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious
plums, grapes and blue currants, and afterwards arrived at
the mouth of the river about sunset. To this place the
course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine miles; we
there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment
of last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux
of our approach. In the mean time, the boat under serjeant
Pryor had proceeded in the afternoon one mile, to a bluff
of blue clay on the south, and after passing a sandbar and
two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance of six miles
on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had
killed a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught
some large catfish.
Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock
before she set out, and then passing by an island, and under
a cliff on the south, nearly two miles in extent and composed
of white and blue earth, encamped at nine miles distance,
on a sandbar towards the north. Opposite to this, on the
south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or Little Bow, and a
short distance above it, an old village of the same name.
This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of
earth about four feet high surrounding it, was built by
a Maha chief named Little Bow, who being displeased with
Blackbird, the late king, seceded with two hundred followers
and settled at this spot, which is now abandoned, as the two
have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;
two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species
being longer than the other; and a third round and red:
all have an excellent flavour, particularly those of the yellow
kind.
August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than
usual. A gentle breeze from the southeast carried us by some
large sandbars, on both sides and in the middle of the river,
to a bluff, on the south side, at seven and a half miles distant:
this bluff is of white clay or chalk, under which is much
stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance, supposed
to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set
the prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a
half miles, we had passed several other sandbars, and now
reached the mouth of a river called by the French Jacques
(James river) or Yankton, from the tribe which inhabits its
banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the confluence: the
country which it waters is rich prairie, with little timber:
it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be
navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of
St. Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg.
As we came to the mouth of the river, an Indian
swam to the boat; and, on our landing, we were met by two
others, who informed us that a large body of Sioux were
encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men,
with an invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the
third Indian remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and
says that his nation have gone to the Pawnees to make peace
with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped on a sandbar
to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the
wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen
gradually, and is now low.
Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the
south, several sandbars. On the south is a prairie which
rises gradually from the water to the height of a bluff,
which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish colour, and
of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of
eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the
south side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful
plain, to wait the arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the
young Indian left us and joined their camp. Before reaching
Calumet bluff one of the periogues ran upon a log in the river,
and was rendered unfit for service; so that all our loading
was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the river
are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there
is more timber in the points and valleys than we have been
accustomed to see.
Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and
rain last evening; and were engaged during the day in repairing
the periogue, and other necessary occupations;
when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant Pryor and
his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five
chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat
for them, and they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the
son of our interpreter, who happened to be trading with the
Sioux at this time. He returned with sergeant Pryor to the
Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a few kettles;
and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the
morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their
village, which is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he
was met by a party with a buffaloe robe, on which they desired
to carry their visitors: an honour which they declined,
informing the Indians that they were not the commanders
of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then
presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook
heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of
the Sioux are of a conical form, covered with buffaloe
robes, painted with various figures and colours, with an
aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through. The
lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior
arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a
place for cooking detached from it.
August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we
could not see the Indian camp on the opposite side, but it
cleared off about eight o'clock. We prepared a speech, and
some presents, and then sent for the chiefs and warriors,
whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large oak tree,
near to which the flag of the United States was flying. Captain
Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and
counsel for their future conduct. We then acknowledged
their chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a flag, a medal, a
certificate, with a string of wampum; to which we added a
chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the United
States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather.
One second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised
by medals, and a suitable present of tobacco, and
articles of clothing. We then smoked the pipe of peace, and
the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of bushes, by their
young men, where they divided among each other the presents,
and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer
which they were to make us to-morrow. The young people
exercised their bows and arrows in shooting at marks for
beads, which we distributed to the best marksmen; and in
the evening the whole party danced until a late hour, and in
the course of their amusement we threw among them some
knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they
were much pleased. Their musical instruments were the
drum, and a sort of little bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed
white, with small shot or pebbles in it, and a bunch of hair
tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling music, with
which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the
council this morning.
August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs
met, and sat down in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented,
and all pointed towards the seats intended for
captains Lewis and Clarke. When they arrived and were
seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,
in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur
what we had said, and promising to follow our advice:
"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons.
You see me, and the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are
very poor; we have neither powder nor ball, nor knives; and
our women and children at the village have no clothes. I
wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal,
they would give something to those poor people, or let them
stop and trade with the first boat which comes up the river.
I will bring chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and
make peace between them; but it is better that I should do it
than my great father's sons, for they will listen to me more
readily. I will also take some chiefs to your country in the
spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I went
formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some
clothes: when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal,
but nothing to keep it from my skin; but now you give me a
medal and clothes. But still we are poor; and I wish, brothers,
you would give us something for our squaws."
When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:
"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words
were yesterday; and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have
dressed our old chief. I am a young man, and do not wish
to take much: my fathers have made me a chief: I had much
sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. What
the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever
he and you please: but I wish that you would take pity on
us, for we are very poor."
Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said:
"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak
well; but I have listened to what you have told the old chief,
and will do whatever you agree."
The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.
We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles
means "Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some
Pawnee tribe. The second is, in English, "Half Man," which
seems a singular name for a warrior, till it was explained
to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief;
who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior:
I am only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very
little; but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered
a speech, in which he declared he would support them.
They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and Missouris,
the only nations with whom they are at war. All these
harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation:
they begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders:
that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious
that we should supply them with some of their great father's
milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent
spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs,
and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended the
chief. We prevailed on Mr. Durion to remain here, and
accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect,
down to the seat of government. We also gave his son a
flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring
about a peace between the surrounding tribes, and to convey
some of their chiefs to see the president. In the evening
they left us, and encamped on the opposite bank, accompanied
by the two Durions. During the evening and night we
had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little. The
Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of
the great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two
hundred men in number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines,
and Sioux rivers. In person they are stout, well proportioned,
and have a certain air of dignity and boldness.
In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of
the nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they
are fond of decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills,
and feathers. Some of them wore a kind of necklace of
white bear's claws, three inches long, and closely strung
pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in
which, however, they do not appear as expert as the more
northern Indians. What struck us most was an institution,
peculiar to them, and to the Kite Indians, further to the
westward, from whom it is said to have been copied. It is
an association of the most active and brave young men, who
are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow,
never to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies.
In war they go forward without sheltering themselves
behind trees, or aiding their natural valour by any
artifice. This punctilious determination, not to be turned
from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short
time since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri
on the ice. A hole lay immediately in their course, which
might easily have been avoided, by going round. This the
foremost of the band disdained to do; but went straight forward,
and was lost. The others would have followed his
example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the
tribe. These young men sit, and encamp, and dance together,
distinct from the rest of the nation: they are generally
about thirty or thirty-five years old; and such is the deference
paid to courage, that their seats in council are superior
to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected.
But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will
soon diminish the numbers of those who practise it; so that
the band is now reduced to four warriors, who were among
our visitors. These were the remains of twenty-two, who
composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with the
Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them
were killed, and these four were dragged from the field by
their companions.
Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very
minute inquiries relative to their situation and numbers, and
trade, and manners. This we did very satisfactorily, by
means of two different interpreters; and from their accounts,
and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled
to understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the
Sioux hitherto so little known.
The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the
Mississippi, and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now
subdivided into tribes, as follow:
First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux,
Desmoines, and Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred
warriors.
Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers
about three hundred men, who rove on both sides of the
Missouri, the White, and Teton rivers.
Third, The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of
about one hundred and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of
the Missouri below the Chayenne river.
Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both
sides of the Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing
about two hundred and fifty men.
Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri
below the Warreconne river, and consist of about
three hundred men.
Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on
the heads of the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous
of all the tribes, and number about five hundred men.
Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's,
just above the mouth of that river, and numbering two
hundred men.
Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux
Indians. These possess the original seat of the Sioux, and
are properly so denominated. They rove on both sides of
the Mississippi, about the falls of St. Anthony, and consist
of three hundred men.
Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation
inhabits both sides of the river St. Peter's, below Yellow
men.
Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred
men, and reside at the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several
tribes, more particular notice will be taken hereafter.
Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning
under a light southern breeze, and passed the Calumet
bluffs; these are composed of a yellowish red, and brownish
clay as hard as chalk, which it much resembles, and are one
hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty feet high.
At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the
river, those on the south being higher than on the north.
Opposite the bluffs is a large island covered with timber;
above which the highlands form a cliff over the river on
the north side, called White Bear cliff; an animal of that
kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which are numerous
and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large
sand island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high,
and the weather rainy and cloudy during the day. We made
fifteen miles to a place on the north side, at the lower point
of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's island.
The country on both sides has the same character of prairies,
with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with
cottonwood, elm and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and
a beaver: the catfish too are in great abundance.
September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we
had a high wind from the N. W. We went three miles to
the lower part of an ancient fortification on the south side,
and passed the head of Bonhomme island, which is large and
well timbered: after this the wind became so violent, attended
by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four
miles on the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay,
about one hundred and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied
us with four elk; and we had grapes and plums on the
banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue, on the side of
the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both sides
and contain but few streams of water. On the southern
bank, during this day, the grounds have not been so elevated.
Captain Clarke crossed the river to examine the remains of
the fortification we had just passed.
This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri,
opposite the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and
in a low level plain, the hills being three miles from the
river. It begins by a wall composed of earth, rising immediately
from the bank of the river and running in a direct
course S. 76°, W. ninety six yards; the base of this
wall or mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about
eight. It then diverges in a course S. 84° W. and continues
at the same height and depth to the distance of fifty-three
yards, the angle being formed by a sloping descent; at the
junction of these two is an appearance of a hornwork of the
same height with the first angle: the same wall then pursues
a course N. 69° W. for three hundred yards: near its
western extremity is an opening or gateway at right angles
to the wall, and projecting inwards; this gateway is defended
by two nearly semicircular walls placed before it, lower
than the large walls; and from the gateway there seems to
have been a covered way communicating with the interval
between these two walls: westward of the gate, the wall
becomes much larger, being about one hundred and five feet
at its base, and twelve feet high: at the end of this high
ground the wall extends for fifty-six yards on a course N.
32° W; it then turns N. 23° W. for seventy-three yards:
these two walls seems to have had a double or covered way;
they are from ten to fifteen feet eight inches in height, and
from seventy-five to one hundred and five feet in width at
the base; the descent inwards being steep, whilst outwards
it forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of seventy-three
yards, the wall ends abruptly at a large hollow place much
lower than the general level of the plain, and from which is
some indication of a covered way to the water. The space
through the gorge, in the centre of which is a
deep round hole. From the extremity of the last wall, in a
course N. 32° W. is a distance of ninety-six yards over the
low ground, where the wall recommences and crosses the
plain in a course N. 81° W. for eighteen hundred and thirty
yards to the bank of the Missouri. In this course its height
is about eight feet, till it enters, at the distance of five hundred
and thirty-three yards, a deep circular pond of seventy-three
yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower, towards
the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which
bears every mark of being an encroachment of the water, for
a considerable distance; and a little above the junction, is a
small circular redoubt. Along the bank of the river, and
at eleven hundred yards distance, in a straight line from this
wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of considerable
width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at
a point where the river bends, and goes straight forward,
forming an acute angle with the last wall, till it enters the
river again, not far from the mounds just described, towards
which it is obviously tending. At the bend the Missouri is
five hundred yards wide; the ground on the opposite side
highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river
passes between this fort and Bonhomme island, all the dis
tance from the bend, it is constantly washing the banks into
the stream, a large sandbank being already taken from
the shore near the wall. During the whole course of this
wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among which are
many large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter. Immediately
opposite the citadel, or the part most strongly
fortified, on Bonhomme island, is a small work in a circular
form, with a wall surrounding it, about six feet in height.
The young willows along the water, joined to the general
appearance of the two shores, induce a belief that the bank
of the island is encroaching, and the Missouri indemnifies
itself by washing away the base of the fortification. The
the long walls must embrace nearly five hundred acres.
These are the first remains of the kind which we have
had an opportunity of examining; but our French interpreters
assure us, that there are great numbers of them on the
Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &c. and some of our party
say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the upper
side of the Petit Are creek, not far from its mouth; that
the wall was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles
one hundred yards in length.
September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from
the northwest. We passed at sunrise, three large sandbars,
and at the distance of ten miles reached a small creek, about
twelve yards wide, coming in from the north, above a white
bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum creek,
from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood,
and of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we
encamped on the south near the edge of a plain; the river
is wide, and covered with sandbars to-day: the banks are high
and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce, but an abundance
of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in
great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves.
September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind
from S. S. E. and at one mile and a half, reached a small
creek, called Whitelime creek, on the south side. Just above
this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees, and at three miles a
creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty yards wide:
on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from
the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called
by the French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into
the Missouri, in a course S. W. by W. and is one hundred and
fifty-two yards wide, and four feet deep at the confluence. It
rises in the Black mountains, and passes through a hilly country,
with a poor soil. Captain Clarke ascended three miles to
a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once
mouth, and much divided by sands and islands, which, joined
to the great rapidity of the current, makes the navigation
very difficult, even for small boats. Like the Platte its waters
are of a light colour; like that river too it throws out
into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser even
than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals
near its mouth.
We encamped just above it, on the south, having made
only eight miles, as the wind shifted to the south, and blew
so hard that in the course of the day we broke our mast:
we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot a turkey and
a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground,
with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrow
wood, elm and coffeenut.
September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from
the south. At five miles, we came to a large island, called
Pawnee island, in the middle of the river; and stopped to
breakfast at a small creek on the north, which has the
name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the
mouth of this creek the beaver had made a dam across so
as to form a large pond, in which they built their houses.
Above this island the river Poncara falls into the Missouri
from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the entrance.
Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same
name, returned with information that they had found it on
the lower side of the creek; but as this is the hunting season,
the town was so completely deserted that they had
killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This tribe of Poncaras,
who are said to have once numbered four hundred
men, are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for
mutual protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred
in number. These two nations are allied by a similarity
of misfortune; they were once both numerous, both resided
in villages, and cultivated Indian corn; their common
enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their
of trade; and they now wander over the plains on the sources
of the Wolf and Quicurre rivers. Between the Pawnee
island and Goat creek on the north, is a cliff of blue earth,
under which are several mineral springs, impregnated with
salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from which
the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from
the creek, we came to a large island on the south, along
which we passed to the head of it, and encamped about four
o'clock. Here we replaced the mast we had lost, with a
new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were procured today,
and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's village.
Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this mornning
from the N. W. and though it moderated, the wind
was still high, and the weather very cold; the number of
sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current, obliged
us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions
we did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped
on the north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue,
and red coloured stone, on the southern shore. We saw
some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe, in addition to
which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies,
geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in
the evening. The ground near the camp, was a low prarie,
without timber, though just below is a grove of cottonwood.
Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the
wind southeast. At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped
at the foot of a round mountain, on the south, having
passed two small islands. This mountain, which is about three
hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top, resembling
a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above
the surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome,
we arrived at a spot, on the gradual descent of the hill,
nearly four acres in extent, and covered with small holes:
these are the residence of a little animal, called by the
mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take
refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out, we
poured into one of the holes five barrels of water without
filling it, but we dislodged and caught the owner. After
digging down another of the holes for six feet, we found, on
running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way to
the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole,
and near it we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed
a small prairie dog: we were also informed, though we
never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard, and a snake,
live habitually with these animals. The petit chien are
justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some particulars,
though they have also some points of similarity to
the squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect,
except that the ear is shorter, the tail like that of
the ground-squirrel, the toe-nails are long, the fur is fine,
and the long hair is gray.
Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from
the southeast, but moderately. At seven miles we reached
a house on the north side, called the Pawnee house, where
a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year 1796–7: behind
this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the
north, about eight miles off. Before reaching this house,
we came by three small islands, on the north side, and a
small creek on the south; and after leaving it, reached another,
at the end of seventeen miles, on which we encamped,
and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of buffaloe, and
some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie
dog. The party on the north represent the country through
which they passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance
of having been lately burnt by the Indians; the
broken hills, indeed, approach the river on both sides,
though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near the
water.
Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on
which we had encamped, and then passed three sand and
willow islands, and a number of smaller sandbars. The river
is shallow, and joined by two small creeks from the
north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south,
are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred;
all the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer.
We encamped on a sandbar, on the southern shore, at the
distance of fourteen and a quarter miles.
September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty
miles. The morning was cloudy and dark, but a light breeze
from the southeast carried us past two small islands on the
south, and one on the north; till, at the distance of ten and a
half miles, we reached an island, extending for two miles in
the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which
it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island,
on a hill, to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five
feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect state of
petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to
Washington. On both sides of the river are high dark-coloured
bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island, on the southern
shore, the party on that side discovered a large and very
strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so
strongly impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles
beyond Cedar island is a large island on the north, and a
number of sandbars. After which is another, about a mile
in length, lying in the middle of the river, and separated by
a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it, on
which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud
islands. The river is shallow during this day's course, and is
falling a little. The elk and buffaloe are in great abundance,
but the deer have become scarce.
September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we
passed the upper extremity of an island on the south;
four miles beyond which is another on the same side of the
river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we visited a
gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred
and seventy yards long, and eight hundred yards wide;
we killed four of them. We then resumed our course,
and during five and a half miles passed two islands on the
north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles,
on the south side of the river, and just above a small run.
The morning had been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began
raining, with a high northwest wind, which continued
during the greater part of the night. The country seen today
consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising into uneven
grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three
miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The
river itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer,
squirrels, a pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our
game this day; some foxes too were seen, but not caught.
In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback
down towards the boat, and we were much pleased to find
that it was George Shannon, one of our party, for whose
safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses having
strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search
for them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin
us, but seeing some other tracks, which must have been
those of Indians, and which he mistook for our own, he concluded
that we were ahead, and had been for sixteen days
following the bank of the river above us. During the first
four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly
starved, being obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few
grapes, and a rabbit which he killed by making use of a
hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his horses gave out,
and was left behind; the other he kept as a last resource for
food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down
the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on
the point of killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as
to join us.
Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy;
the wind from the northwest. At a short distance we
reached an island in the middle of the river, which is covered
with timber, a rare object now. We with great difficulty
were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the
water being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several
hours in making a mile. Several times the boat wheeled
on the bar, and the men were obliged to jump out and prevent
her from upsetting; at others, after making a way up
one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back to seek
the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole
day and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river
are high grounds; on the southern side particularly, they
form dark bluffs, in which may be observed slate and coal
intermixed. We saw also several villages of barking-squirrels;
great numbers of growse, and three foxes.
September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day
through a number of sandbars, which make it difficult to find
the proper channel. The hills on each side are high, and
separated from the river by a narrow plain on its borders.
On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with timber,
and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe:
on the south we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet
ripe; and near the dark bluffs, a run tainted with allum and
copperas; the southern side being more strongly impregnated
with minerals than the northern. Last night four
beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it
was upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches.
We encamped on the north side, opposite to a small willow
island. At night the mosquitoes were very troublesome,
though the weather was cold and rainy and the wind from
the northwest.
Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round
island on the northern side; at about five, a run on the south;
two and a half miles further, a small creek; and at nine
miles encamped near the mouth of a creek, on the same
wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the
water and drag the boat over the bars several times. During
the whole day we searched along the southern shore,
and at some distance into the interior, to find an ancient
volcano which we heard at St. Charles was somewhere in
this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest
appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their
search the party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The
hills, particularly on the south, continue high, but the timber
is confined to the islands and banks of the river. We
had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of these
hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the
hills which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of
the current destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole
texture appears loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes
with the water: the muddy mixture is then forced over
the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes to the depth of
three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after
which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes
at last covered with sand.
Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour,
the creek near our last night's encampment; and at two
miles distance reached the mouth of White river, coming in
from the south. We ascended a short distance, and sent a
sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river
has a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water
is confined to one hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a
sand island, and several sandbars. The current is regular
and swift, with sandbars projecting from the points. It
differs very much from the Platte, and Quicurre, in throwing
out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character
is like that of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed
by the sergeant, who ascended about twelve miles;
at which distance it was about the same width as near the
mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had been
chiefly of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were
seen floating down the river; they had also met with goats,
such as we have heretofore seen; great quantities of buffaloe,
near to which were wolves, some deer, and villages of
barking squirrels. At the confluence of White river with
the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land
rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing
more timber than is usual in this country. After
passing high dark bluffs on both sides, we reached the lower
point of an island towards the south, at the distance of
six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes, and
is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits.
At the end of this island, which is small, a narrow
channel separates it from a large sand island, which we passed,
and encamped, eight miles on the north, under a high
point of land opposite a large creek to the south, on which
we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was from
the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold,
and its dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of
wolves around us.
September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached
a convenient spot on the south side, and at one mile and
a quarter distance, we encamped just above a small creek,
which we called Corvus, having killed an animal of that genus
near it. Finding that we could not proceed over the
sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily
loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally
intended, our third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until
spring, and in the mean time lighten the boat by loading the
periogue: this operation, added to that of drying all our wet
articles, detained us during the day. Our camp is in a beautiful
plain, with timber thinly scattered for three quarters
of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some
ash of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of
a small species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher
thick and of a light colour; the leaves small, deeply indented,
and of a pale green; the cup which contains the acorn is
fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one half: the
acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an excellent
flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other
acorns possess; they are now falling, and have probably attracted
the number of deer which we saw on this place, as
all the animals we have seen are fond of that food. The
ground having been recently burnt by the Indians, is cover
ed with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are
great quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for
the sake of their skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues,
the meat being too poor for food: the cold season
coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each man, and fresh
powder to those who had exhausted their supply.
Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were
engaged in the same way as yesterday, others were employed
in examining the surrounding country. About a quarter
of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation of twenty
feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to
the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which
it gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees
loaded with fruit, now ripe, and differing in nothing from
those of the Atlantic states, except that the tree is smaller
and more thickly set. The ground of the plain is occupied by
the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who entice
hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats,
all of which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed
on the squirrel. This plain is intersected nearly in its whole
extent by deep ravines and steep irregular rising grounds
from one to two hundred feet. On ascending the range
of hills which border the plain, we saw a second high level
plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach.
To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant
runs nearly north and south, but not to any great extent,
and they seemed covered with a verdure similar to that
of the plains. The same view extended over the irregular
hills which border the northern side of the Missouri: all
around the country had been recently burnt, and a young
green grass about four inches high covered the ground,
which was enlivened by herds of antelopes and buffaloe; the
last of which were in such multitudes, that we cannot exaggerate
in saying that at a single glance we saw three thousand
of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope
seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous
they generally repose only on the ridges, which command
a view of all the approaches of an enemy: the acuteness
of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger,
the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions
of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career
seems more like the flight of birds than the movements of
an earthly being. After many unsuccessful attempts, captain
Lewis at last, by winding around the ridges, approached
a party of seven, which were on an eminence, towards which
the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male of the
party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to
announce any danger to the females, who formed a group
at the top. Although they did not see captain Lewis, the
smell alarmed them, and they fled when he was at the distance
of two hundred yards: he immediately ran to the spot
where they had been, a ravine concealed them from him,
but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the
distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the
same, but their number and the extreme rapidity with which
they continued their course, convinced him that they must
have gone with a speed equal to that of the most distinguished
racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day was a mule-deer,
a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis
also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows
of the barking squirrels.
Tuesday, September 18. Having every thing in readiness
we proceeded, with the boat much lightened, but the wind
being from the N. W. we made but little way. At one mile
we reached an island in the middle of the river, nearly a
mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its extremity
a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some
sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped
on the south, having made only seven miles. In addition
to the common deer, which were in great abundance,
we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black tailed deer; the large
wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair with
coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of
wolf about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved
to be the animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a
fox: there are also many porcupines, rabbits, and barking
squirrels in the neighbourhood.
September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning,
and a wind from the southeast. We reached at three miles
a bluff on the south, and four miles further, the lower point
of Prospect island, about two and a half miles in length;
opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet above the
water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising
as they recede from the river: these are watered by three
streams which empty near each other: the first is about
thirty-five yards wide, the ground on its sides high and rich,
with some timber; the second about twelve yards wide, but
with less timber; the third is nearly of the same size, and
contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large
timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three
places. These rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres
des Sioux, the three Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux
generally cross the Missouri at this place, it is called the
Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams have the same
right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone
creek already mentioned.
Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen
yards wide; eight miles further, another twenty yards
wide; three miles beyond which, is a third of eighteen yards
width, all on the south side: the second which passes through
a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave the
name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About
a mile beyond this is a small island on the north side of the
river, and is called Lower island, as it is situated at the
commencement of what is known by the name of the Grand
Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri. Opposite is a
creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a
plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear,
which name we gave to the creek. We encamped on the
south, opposite the upper extremity of the island, having
made an excellent day's sail of twenty six and a quarter miles.
Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of these four
were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns
on each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe,
elk and goats, were also seen.
Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the
Big Bend, we despatched two men with our only horse
across the neck, to hunt there and wait our arrival at the
first creek beyond it. We then set out with fair weather
and the wind from S. E. to make the circuit of the bend.
Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the
river shallow. At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on
the southern side. About ten miles beyond it is a small
island on the south, opposite to a small creek on the north.
This island, which is near the N. W. extremity of the bend,
is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further,
we encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and
a half miles. Captain Clarke, who early this morning had
crossed the neck of the bend, joined us in the evening. At
the narrowest part, the gorge is composed of high and irregular
hills of about one hundred and eighty or one hundred
unbroken plain over the whole of the bend, and the country
is separated from it by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe,
elk, and goats are wandering over these plains, accompanied
by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a hare also, on the
Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a female
differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns
too are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and
no black about the neck: none of these goats have any beard,
but are delicately formed, and very beautiful.
Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the
serjeant on guard alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar
on which we lay was sinking; we jumped up, and found
that both above and below our camp the sand was undermined
and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the
boats and pushed off, when the bank under which they had
been lying, fell in, and would certainly have sunk the two
periogues if they had remained there. By the time we
reached the opposite shore the ground of our encampment
sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the
night, and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of
the Great Bend, where we breakfasted. A man, whom we
had despatched to step off the distance across the bend, made
it two thousand yards: the circuit is thirty miles. During
the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with occasional
bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground,
and long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed
through a high prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar
lowland and cedar bluff on the south, till we reached a willow
island below the mouth of a small creek. This creek,
called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards wide, comes
in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from the
neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the
skin of a white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large
quantities of different kinds of plover and brants are in
this neighbourhood, and seen collecting and moving towards
we had found them below this place. We passed several
sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a
mile in width, and encamped on the south, at the distance
of eleven and a half miles. On each side the shore is lined
with hard rough gulleystones, rolled from the hills and
small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar,
though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the
prickly pear. From this place we passed several sandbars,
which make the river shallow, and about a mile in width.
At the distance of eleven and a half miles, we encamped on
the north at the lower point of an ancient island, which
has since been connected with the main land by the filling
up of the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood.
We here saw some tracks of Indians, but they
appeared three or four weeks old. This day was warm.
September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven
o'clock; our course was through inclined prairies on each
side of the river, crowded with buffaloe. We halted at a
point on the north side, near a high bluff on the south, and
took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of 44°
11′ 33 3/10″. On renewing our course, we reached first a small
island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles,
immediately above which is another island opposite to a
creek fifteen yards wide. This creek, and the two islands,
one of which is half a mile long, and the second three miles,
are called the Three Sisters: a beautiful plain extending on
both sides of the river. This is followed by an island on the
north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a half in
length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its
name from the quality of the timber. On the south side of
this island, is a fort and a large trading house, built by a
Mr. Loisel, who wintered here during the last year, in order
to trade with the Sioux, the remains of whose camps are
in great numbers about this place. The establishment is
sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted
been sent ahead joined us here. They mention that the
hills are washed in gullies, in passing over which, some mineral
substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins;
they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles
distance we came to on the north side at the mouth of a
small creek. The large stones which we saw yesterday on
the shores are now some distance in the river, and render
the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous
in the low grounds.
Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze
from the southeast, a small island on the north, called Goat
island; above which is a small creek, called by the party
Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to the southwest
on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower
point of a large island, having passed two small willow
islands with sandbars projecting from them. This island,
which we called Elk island, is about two and a half
miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated
near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant,
and grapes. The river is here almost straight for a
considerable distance, wide and shallow, with many sandbars.
A small creek on the north, about sixteen yards
wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of
our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a
short distance above this we encamped for the night, having
made twenty miles. The country, generally, consists of
low, rich, timbered ground on the north, and high barren
lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of buffaloe
are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux
nation swam across the river, and informed us that two
parties of Sioux were encamped on the next river, one consisting
of eighty, and the second of sixty lodges, at some
distance above. After treating them kindly we sent them
back, with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their
chiefs, whom we invited to a conference in the morning.
Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east,
and the day fair; we soon passed a handsome prairie on the
north side, covered with ripe plums, and the mouth of a
creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a little above
our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island
two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south.
Here we were joined by one of our hunters, who procured
four elk, but whilst he was in pursuit of the game the Indians
had stolen his horse. We left the island, and soon
overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored, and told
them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue
so, but were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their
young men had stolen the horse which their great father
had sent for their great chief, and that we could not treat
with them until he was restored. They said that they
knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he
should be given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half
miles, passed an island on the north, which we called Good-humoured
island; it is about one and a half miles long, and
abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we anchored one
hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side,
where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped;
two thirds of the party remained on board, and the rest
went as a guard on shore with the cooks and one periogue; we
have seen along the sides of the hills on the north a great
deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a hare; the
five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with
the guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we
smoked with him, and made him a present of tobacco. This
river is about seventy yards wide, and has a considerable
current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit it are called
Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river.
| CHAP. III. History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. | |