University of Virginia Library

LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION
UP THE MISSOURI.

CHAP. I.

ON the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the
attention of the government of the United States, was early
directed towards exploring and improving the new territory.
Accordingly in the summer of the same year, an expedition
was planned by the president for the purpose of
discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the
most convenient water communication thence to the Pacific
ocean. His private secretary captain Meriwether Lewis,
and captain William Clarke, both officers of the army of
the United States, were associated in the command of this
enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions, captain
Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by
captain Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St.
Louis, where they arrived in the month of December. Their
orriginal intention was to pass the winter at La Charrette,

the highest settlement on the Missouri. But the Spanish
commandant of the province, not having received an official
account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by
the general policy of his government, to prevent strangers
from passing through the Spanish territory. They therefore
encamped at the mouth of Wood river, on the eastern
side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where they
passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the
necessary preparations for setting out early in the Spring
before which the cession was officially announced. The
party consisted of nine young men from Kentucky, fourteen
soldiers of the United States army who volunteered their
services, two French watermen—an interpreter and hunter
—and a black servant belonging to captain Clarke—All
these, except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during
the expedition, and three sergeants appointed from
amongst them by the captains. In addition to these were
engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen to
accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order
to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an attack
which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and
that tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven
bales, and one box, containing a small portion of each article
in case of accident. They consisted of a great variety of
clothing, working utensils, locks, flints, powder, ball, and
articles of the greatest use. To these were added fourteen
bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same
manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles
of dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the
chiefs—ornaments of different kinds, particularly beads,
lookingglasses, handkerchiefs, paints, and generally such
articles as were deemed best calculated for the taste of the
Indians. The party was to embark on board of three boats;
the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three
feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two
oars, a deck of ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle
and cabin, while the middle was covered by lockers,
which might be raised so as to form a breast-work in case
of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or open
boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses
were at the same time to be led along the banks of the river
for the purpose of bringing home game, or hunting in case
of scarcity.

Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a
succinct and circumstantial narrative.

All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment
on Monday, May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the
mouth of Wood river, a small stream which empties itself
into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of the Missouri.
It is situated in latitude 38° 55′ 19″ 6/10 north, and
longitude from Greenwich, 89° 57′ 45″. On both sides of
the Mississippi the land for two or three miles is rich and
level, but gradually swells into a high pleasant country,
with less timber on the western than on the eastern side,
but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which separates
the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or
twenty miles, the greater part of which is an open level
plain, in which the people of the neighbourhood cultivate
what little grain they raise. Not being able to set sail
before four o'clock P. M., we did not make more than four
miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small
creek called Cold Water.

May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and
last night, ceased this morning. We then proceeded, and
after passing two small islands about ten miles further, stopped
for the night at Piper's landing, opposite another island.
The water is here very rapid and the banks falling in. We
found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern, in
consequence of which she ran on logs three times to day.
It became necessary to throw the greatest weight on the
bow of the boat, a precaution very necessary in ascending

both the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, in the beds of
which, there lie great quantities of concealed timber.

The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance
of a few miles, we passed a remarkable large coal
hill on the north side, called by the French La Charbonniere,
and arrived at the town of St. Charles. Here we remained
a few days.

St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the
Missouri, about twenty-one miles from its confluence with
the Mississippi. It is situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently
high to protect it from the annual risings of the river in the
month of June, and at the foot of a range of small hills,
which have occasioned its being called Petite Cote, a name
by which it is more known to the French than by that of
St. Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length
and running parallel with the river, divides the town, which
is composed of nearly one hundred small wooden houses, besides
a chapel. The inhabitants, about four hundred and
fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the French of
Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless
gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of
France: yet, like most of their countrymen in America,
they are but ill qualified for the rude life of a frontier; not
that they are without talent, for they possess much natural
genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of enterprize,
for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and
hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry
is without system, and without perseverance. The
surrounding country, therefore, though rich, is not, in general,
well cultivated; the inhabitants chiefly subsisting by
hunting and trade with the Indians, and confine their culture
to gardening, in which they excel.

Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained
by business at St. Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May
21st, in the afternoon, but were prevented by wind and rain
from going more than about three miles, when we encamped

on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek
which falls in on the south side.

On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several
small farms on the bank of the river, a number of islands,
and a large creek on the south side, called Bonhomme, or
Goodman's river. A small number of emigrants from
the United States have settled on the sides of this creek,
which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands,
and encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here
we met with a camp of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at
St. Charles, with a promise of procuring us some provisions
by the time we overtook them. They now made us a present
of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of
whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia
and Illinois river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but
occasionally hunt on the Missouri.

May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached
a river emptying itself on the north side, called Osage
Woman river. It is about thirty yards wide, and has now a
settlement of thirty or forty families from the United States.
About a mile and a half beyond this is a large cave, on
the south side at the foot of cliffs nearly three hundred feet
high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift
at this place. The cave is one hundred and twenty feet
wide, forty feet deep, and twenty high, it is known by the
name of the Tavern, among the traders who have written
their names on the rock, and painted some images which
command the homage of the Indians and French. About a
mile further we passed a small creek called Tavern creek,
and encamped on the south side of the river, having gone
nine miles.

Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid,
called the Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets
for half a mile against some projecting rocks on the south
side. We were less fortunate in attempting a second place
of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the

bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly,
between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly
moving and banking with the violence of the current.
The boat struck on it, and would have upset immediately, if
the men had not jumped into the water and held her, till the
sand washed from under her. We encamped on the south
side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25,
passed on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the
north, two small creeks and several islands, and stopped for
the night at the entrance of a creek on the north side, called
by the French La Charrette, ten miles from our last encampment,
and a little above a small village of the same
name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor
families who have fixed themselves here for the convenience
of trade, and form the last establishment of whites on the
Missouri. It rained last night, yet we found this morning
that the river had fallen several inches.

May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen
miles to-day. We passed in the morning several islands, the
largest of which is Buffaloe island, separated from the
southern side by a small channel which receives the waters
of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's creek,
a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side.
The next day we sailed along a large island called Otter
island, on the northern side, extending nearly ten miles in
length, narrow but high in its situation, and one of the most
fertile in the whole river. Between it and the northern
shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same name
with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore
is a creek twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the
course of the day we met two canoes loaded with furs,
which had been two months on their route from the Mahar
nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the river
—one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte,
and three others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance
of fifteen miles we encamped on a willow island, at

the entrance of the river Gasconade. This river falls into
the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles from the
Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles
in a course generally northeast through a hilly country.
On its banks are a number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed
some mines of lead in the vicinity. Its width at the
mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards, and its depth
nineteen feet.

Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying
our provisions, and making the necessary celestial observations.
This being completed, we set sail on the 29th at four
o'clock, and at four miles distance encamped on the south-side,
above a small creek, called Deer creek. The next day,
30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a
large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a
French trader of that name, just above a creek called after
the same person. Beyond this is a large island, and at the
distance of four miles, Rush creek coming in from the
south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north, about fifty
yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on
the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth
of Grindstone creek. The rain which began last night continued
through the day, accompanied with high wind and
some hail. The river has been rising fast for two days, and
the country around appears full of water. Along the sides
of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood,
the sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and
rushes—the high west wind and rain compelled us to remain
all the next day, May 31. In the afternoon a boat came down
from the Grand Osage river, bringing a letter from a person
sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river, which
mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana
was committed to the flames—that the Indians would
not believe that the Americans were owners of that country,
and disregarded St. Louis and its supplies. The party was
occupied in hunting, in the course of which, they caught in

the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the next
morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear
creek, a stream of about twenty-five yards width: but the
wind being ahead and the current rapid, we were unable to
make more than thirteen miles to the mouth of the Osage
river; where we encamped and remained the following day,
for the purpose of making celestial observations. The Osage
river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and
thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river.
Its general course is west and west southwest through
a rich and level country. At the junction the Missouri is
about eight hundred and seventy-five yards wide, and the
Osage three hundred and ninety-seven. The low point of
junction is in latitude 38° 31′ 16″, and at a short distance
from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed
a delightful prospect of the country.

The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting
its banks at a considerable distance from this place.
Their present name however, seems to have originated from
the French traders, for both among themselves and their
neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They number
between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of
three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors,
living in a village on the south bank of the river—the
Little Osages, of nearly half that number, residing at the
distance of six miles from them—and the Arkansaw band,
a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left them
some years ago, under the command of a chief called the
Bigfoot, and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the
Arkansaw. In person the Osages are among the largest
and best formed Indians, and are said to possess fine military
capacities; but residing as they do in villages, and having
made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem
less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to
whom the use of rifles gives a great superiority. Among
the peculiarities of this people, there is nothing more remarkable

than the tradition relative to their origin. According
to universal belief, the founder of the nation was a
snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage,
till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him
exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened
him into a man, but with the change of his nature, he
had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards
which, he immediately bent his way. He was however
soon overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the
Great Spirit appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow,
showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself
with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence,
but as he approached the river, he was met by a beaver, who
inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he
came to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that
the river was his own, for he had once lived on its borders.
As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came,
and having by her entreaties reconciled her father to this
young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should
marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment
of the river. The Osage readily consented, and
from this happy union there soon came the village and the
nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have ever since
preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining
from the chance of the beaver, because in killing that anmal,
they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years,
however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver
skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives
has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have nearly
lost all the privileges of kindred.

On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three
miles distant, reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from
a rock of that appearance near its entrance. Two miles further
we encamped at Moreau creek, a stream of twenty
yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we
passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called

from the abundance of the tree of that name; near which is
a small creek, named Nightingale creek, from a bird of
that species, who sang for us during the night. Beyond
Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and
at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards
wide, entering from the north, and known by the name of
Cedar creek. At seven and a half miles further, we passed
on the south side another creek, which we called Mast
creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by
running under a concealed tree; a little above is another
creek on the left, one mile beyond which we encamped on
the southern shore under high projecting cliffs. The French
had reported that lead ore was to be found in this place, but
on examining the hills, we could discern no appearance
of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land
covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths
of the creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber.
On the north the land is rich and well situated. We made
seventeen and a half miles this day. The river is falling
slowly. We continued our route the next morning early: a
small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the
north, known to the French by the name of Little Good
Woman's creek, and again Big Rock creek on the south
were the only streams we passed this morning. At eleven
o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined together,
in which two French traders were descending, from
eighty leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered,
and caught great quantities of beaver, but had lost
much of the or game by fires from the prairies. They
told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in
the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two
miles further, we reached on the south Little Manitou
creek, which takes its name from a strange figure resembling
the bust of a man, with the horns of a stag, painted on
a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit or deity.
Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which
renders the navigation difficult, and a small creek called
Sand creek on the south, where we stopped for dinner,
and gathered wild cresses and tongue grass from the sandbar.
The rapidity of the currents added to our having broken
our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a
half miles. The scouts and hunters whom we always kept
out, report that they have seen fresh tracks of Indians. The
next morning we left our camp, which was on the south
side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the river,
and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about
twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure
in the point of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond
this, on the south is Saline river, it is about thirty yards
wide, and has its name from the number of salt licks, and
springs, which render its water brackish; the river is very
rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek,
we passed one large island and several smaller ones, having
made fourteen miles. The water rose a foot during the last
night.

The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles
Big Manitou creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid
with flint of various colours, and embellished, or at least
covered with uncouth paintings of animals and inscriptions.
We landed to examine it, but found the place occupied by a
nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also
examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three
miles up this creek. We then proceeded by some small
willow islands, and encamped at the mouth of Good Woman
river on the north. It is about thirty-five yards wide, and
said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The hunters,
who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this
evening three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe.
We had come fourteen miles.

June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a
creek on the south, near which are a number of deer licks;
at nine miles distance we came to Mine river. This river,

which falls into the Missouri from the south, is said to be
navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about seventy
yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues
from the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very
rich salt springs; the west branch in particular, is so much
impregnated, that, for twenty miles, the water is not palatable:
several branches of the Manitou and Good Woman are
equally tinctured. The French report also, that lead ore has
been found on different parts of the river. We made several
excursions near the river through the low rich country
on its banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills,
where we encamped. We met with a party of three hunters
from the Sioux river; they had been out for twelve
months, and collected about nine hundred dollars worth of
peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.

On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks,
called the Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the
Prairies of Arrows, and Arrow creek, a small stream about
eight yards wide, whose source is in the adjoining prairies
on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is confined within
a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the
south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength.
About three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north
side, opposite to which, is an island and a prairie inclosing
a small lake. Five miles beyond this we encamped on the
south side, after making, in the course of the day, thirteen
miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain. On the
south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty
to one hundred feet.

The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at
the distance of five miles, the two rivers called by the
French the two Charatons, a corruption of Thieraton, the
first of which is thirty, the second seventy yards wide, and
enter the Missouri together. They are both navigable for
boats: the country through which they pass is broken, rich,
and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation,

consisting of three hundred men, have a village near its headwaters
on the river De Moines. Farther on we passed a
large island called Chicot or Stump Island, and encamped
on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind forced
us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried
the meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding
country, which consists of good land, well watered, and supplied
with timber: the prairies also differ from those eastward
of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter are generally
without any covering except grass, whilst the former
abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is
the Osage plum of a superior size and quality. On the
morning of the 12th, we passed through difficult places in
the river, and reached Plum creek on the south side. At
one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with furs, the
other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux
nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate
enough to engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had
lived with that nation more than twenty years, and was
high in their confidence, to accompany us thither. We
made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four
and five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the
north, called the Round Bend creeks. Between these two
creeks is the prairie, in which once stood the ancient village
of the Missouris. Of this village there remains no
vestige, nor is there anything to recall this great and numerous
nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families.
They were driven from their original seats by the
invasions of the Sauks and other Indians from the Mississippi,
who destroyed at this village two hundred of them in
one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage, on
the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same
enemies forced, about thirty years since, both these nations
from the banks of the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage,
and the remainder found an asylum on the river Platte,
among the Ottoes, who are themselves declining. Opposite
the plain there was an island and a French fort, but
there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations
having probably washed them away, as the willow
island which is in the situation described by Du Pratz, is
small and of recent formation. Five miles from this place
is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped. This
river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is
between eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters
the Missouri, near a delightful and rich plain. A racoon,
a bear, and some deer were obtained to day. We proceeded
at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so
rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly,
that we were obliged to approach the sandbars on the
south. These were moving continually, and formed the
worst passage we had seen, and which we surmounted with
much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee
nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to
engage one of their party to return with us. At the distance
of eight miles, we came to some high cliffs, called the Snake
bluffs, from the number of that animal in the neighbourhood,
and immediately above these bluffs, Snake creek, about
eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our
hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having
to day passed a small lake, near which a number of deer
were feeding, and in the pond he heard a snake making a
guttural noise like a turkey. He fired his gun, but the
noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard the Indians
mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed
by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day,
the river being very high, the sandbars were so rolling and
numerous, and the current so strong, that we were unable
to stem it even with oars added to our sails; this obliged us
to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so that we
could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed,
more than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and
one creek on the south side, and encamped on the north opposite
a beautiful plain, which extends as far back as the
Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri. In front of
our encampment are the remains of an old village of the
Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and
at the foot of a small hill. About three miles above them,
in view of our camp is the situation of the old village of the
Missouris after they fled from the Sauks. The inroads of
the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to retire from
the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near
the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile
wide, had risen in the morning, but fell towards evening.
Early this morning, June 16th, we joined the camp of our
hunters, who had provided two deer and two bear, and then
passing an island and a prairie on the north covered with a
species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and
a swift current, to an encampment for the evening, on the
north side, at ten miles distance. The timber which we
examined to day was not sufficiently strong for oars; the
musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome. On the
17th, we set out early, and having come to a convenient
place at one mile distance, for procuring timber and making
oars, we occupied ourselves in that way on this and the following
day. The country on the north of the river is rich
and covered with timber; among which we procured the
ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive prairies,
and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and
waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence
more immediately on the river; the whole is well watered
and provided with game, such as deer, elk, and bear.
The hunters brought in a fat horse which was probably
lost by some war party—this being the crossing place for
the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against
the Osage.

June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under
a gentle breeze by two large and some smaller islands. The
sandbars are numerous and so bad, that at one place we

were forced to clear away the driftwood in order to pass:
the water too was so rapid that we were under the necessity
of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on
the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger
creek on the north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity
of a large island called Panther Island; the other Tabo
creek on the south, fifteen yards wide. Along the shores
are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At
the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on
the south, near a lake about two miles from the river and
several in circumference; and much frequented by deer and
all kinds of fowls. On the north the land is higher and better
calculated for farms than that on the south, which ascends
more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The
musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe
biers or nets were distributed to the party. The
next morning we passed a large island, opposite to which
on the north is a large and beautiful prairie, called Sauk
prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides
the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and
three quarter miles, and encamped at the lower point of a
small island, along the north side of which we proceeded
the next day, June 21st, but not without danger in consequence
of the sands and the rapidity of the water which
rose three inches last night. Behind another island come
in from the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear
Water creeks; on the north is a very remarkable bend,
where the high lands approach the river, and form an acute
angle at the head of a large island produced by a narrow
channel through the point of the bend. We passed several
other islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on
the south.

22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The
water is very rapid and crowded with concealed timber.
We passed two large islands and an extensive prairie on the
south, beginning with a rich low land, and rising to the

distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear country.
The thermometer at three o'clock P. M. was at 87°. After
coming ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite
a large creek called Fire Prairie river.

23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became
so violent that we made only three and a half miles, and
were obliged to lie to during the day at a small island. This
is separated from the northern side by a narrow channel
which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees
and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high
commanding position, more than seventy feet above high
water mark, and overlooking the river which is here of but
little width; this spot has many advantages for a fort, and
trading house with the Indians.[1] The river fell eight inches
last night.

The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance,
Hay Cabin creek coming in from the south, about twenty
yards wide, and so called from camps of straw built on it;
to the north are some rocks projecting into the river, and a
little beyond them a creek on the same side, called Charaton
Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted,
after making eleven and a half miles, the country on both
sides being fine and interspersed with prairies, in which we
now see numerous herds of deer, pasturing in the plains or
feeding on the young willows of the river.

25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we
set sail, and at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on
the north, which appeared to be very abundant: just below
it is a creek called after the bank La Charbonniere. Four
miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a small
creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the
river and contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries,
wild apples, and nearer the river vast quantities of mulberries.

Our encampment was at thirteen miles distance on
an island to the north, opposite some hills higher than usual,
and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty
feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small
island, Blue Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide
at its entrance from the south.[2] Here the Missouri is confined
within a narrow bed, and the current still more so by
counter currents or whirls on one side and a high bank on
the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where
our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great
exertions. We saw a number of parroquets, and killed
some deer; after nine and three quarter miles we encamped
at the upper point of the mouth of the river Kanzas: here
we remained two days, during which we made the necessary
observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat.
The river Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the
Arkansaw and Platte rivers, and pursues a course generally
east till its junction with the Missouri which is in latitude
38° 31′ 13″; here it is three hundred and forty and a quarter
yards wide, though it is wider a short distance above the
mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in
width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations
for two hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above
high water mark, and continues so as far back as the hills.
On the south of the Kanzas the hills or highlands come
within one mile and a half of the river; on the north of the
Missouri they do not approach nearer than several miles;
but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific
gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight,
the Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter
have a very disagreeable taste; the former has risen during
yesterday and to day about two feet. On the banks of
the Kanzas reside the Indians of the same name, consisting
of two villages, one at about twenty, the other forty leagues
from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men.
They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas,
on the south bank of the Missouri, and were then more
numerous, but they have been reduced and banished by the
Sauks and Ayauways, who being better supplied with arms
have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter are
not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is
now hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters
have seen for the first time.

On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having
passed a sandbar, near which the boat was almost
lost, and a large island on the north, we encamped at seven
and a quarter miles on the same side in the low lands,
where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk
through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at
five miles distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the
north, and called by the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or
Little Shallow river; it is about sixty yards wide at its
mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed us, that
the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several
falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south
west, and the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer
standing at 96° above 0 at three o'clock P. M. One mile
beyond this is a small creek on the south, at five miles from
which we encamped on the same side, opposite the lower
point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the
north between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is
not good and subject to overflow—on the south it is higher
and better timbered.

July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond
island, where a small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself.
One and a half miles above the island is a large sandbar
in the middle of the river, beyond which we stopped to
refresh the men, who suffered very much from the heat.
Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries.
Between one and two miles further are three islands

and a creek on the south known by the French name of Remore.
The main current which is now on the south side of
the largest of the three islands, ran three years, as we were
told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the
two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half
miles we reached the lower point of a cluster of small islands,
two large and two small, called Isles des Pares or
Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day seen, and large
quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had advanced
twelve miles.

July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is
a high and beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed
up the south of the islands, which are high meadows,
and a creek on the north called Pare creek. Here for half
an hour the river became covered with drift wood, which
rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused
by the giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the
wood. After making five miles we passed a stream on the
south called Turky creek, near a sandbar, where we could
scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and all the poles
we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large
island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the
Bear Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our
mast, which had been broken three days ago, by running
against a tree, overhanging the river. Thence we proceeded,
and after night stopped on the north side, above the
island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our
camp is a valley, in which was situated an old village of the
Kanzas, between two high points of land, and on the bank of
the river. About a mile in the rear of the village was a
small fort, built by the French on an elevation. There are
now no traces of the village, but the situation of the fort
may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the
general outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine
spring which supplied it with water. The party, who were
stationed here, were probably cut off by the Indians, as there
are no accounts of them.

July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven
and a quarter miles this day, past two islands, one a small
willow island, the other large, and called by the French Isle
des Vaches, or Cow island. At the head of this island, on the
northern shore, is a large pond containing beaver, and fowls
of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we stopped
on the south side at an old trading house, which is now deserted,
and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south.
The land is fine along the rivers, and some distance back.
We observed the black walnut and oak, among the timber;
and the honey-suckle and the buck's-eye, with the nuts on
them.

The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge
of our gun. At one mile we reached the mouth of a
bayeau or creek, coming from a large lake on the north side,
which appears as if it had once been the bed of the river, to
which it runs parallel for several miles. The water of it
is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs,
and the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to
call it the Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a
mile wide, and seven or eight miles long. One of our men
was bitten by a snake, but a poultice of bark and gunpowder
was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a quarter
miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards
wide and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached
the borders of the river. To this creek which had no
name, we gave that of Fourth of July creek; above it is a
high mound, where three Indian paths centre, and from which
is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we
came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern
side, about thirty yards wide, which we called Independence
creek, in honour of the day, which we could celebrate only
by an evening gun, and an additional gill of whiskey to the
men.

The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came
along the bank of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed

with copses of timber, and watered by Independence
creek. On this bank formerly stood the second village of the
Kanzas; from the remains it must have been once a large
town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek
to the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a
bank of that mineral a little above it. The river continues
to fall. On the shores are great quantities of summer and
fall grapes, berries and wild roses. Deer is not so abundant
as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk around us.
We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under
a high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with
tall rushes, and some timber.

July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar,
three miles further an island, a prairie to the north, at the
distance of four miles called Reevey's prairie, after a man
who was killed there; at which place the river is confined
to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar from the south.
Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a small
willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the
river towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed
with small pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls
slowly, and, owing either to the muddiness of its water, or
the extreme heat of the weather, the men perspire profusely.
We encamped on the south having made twelve miles.
The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.

In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged
us to draw the boat along with ropes. At six and three
quarter miles, we came to a sandbar, at a point opposite a
fine rich prairie on the north, called St. Michael's. The prairies
of this neighbourhood have the appearance of distinct
farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow
the borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this,
about a mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four
o'clock we passed a narrow part of the channel, where the
water is confined within a bed of two hundred yards wide,
the current running directly against the southern bank with

no sand on the north to confine it or break its force. We
made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we
had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters
saw in a pond to the north which we passed yesterday a number
of young swans. We saw a large rat, and killed a wolf.
Another of our men had a stroke of the sun; he was bled,
and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him considerably.

July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek
on the north, which we called Ordway's creek, from our
sergeant of that name who had been sent on shore with the
horses, and went up it. On the same side are three small
islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large island
called the Great Nowada extending more than five miles,
and containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good
land, rarely overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the
Missouri. It is separated from the northern shore by a small
channel of from forty-five to eighty yards wide, up which we
passed, and found near the western extremity of the island
the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river persues nearly
a southern course, is navigable for boats to some distance,
and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not
so wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri
contracts its channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we
encamped on the north side, near the head of Nodawa island,
and opposite a smaller one in the middle of the river. Five
of the men were this day sick with violent headachs. The
river continues to fall.

July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last
night encamped, and saw near the head of it a creek falling
in from a pond on the north, to which we gave the name of
Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal which some of
our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight
from N. E. to S. W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed
the mouth of Monter's creek on the south, and two miles
above a few cabins, where one of our party had encamped

with some Frenchmen about two years ago. Further on we
passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the
south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri.
This river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near
the same sources as the Kanzas, and is navigable for boats,
at some distance up. At fourteen miles we encamped on the
south side.

Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper
side of Wolf river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen
yards wide on the south, called Pape's creek after a Spaniard
of that name, who killed himself there. At six miles we dined
on an island called by the French Isle de Salomon, or
Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a beautiful
plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and
a kind of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped
for the night on the northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow
clay. The river has neither risen nor fallen to day. On the
north the low land is very extensive, and covered with vines;
on the south, the hills approach nearer the river, and back
of them commence the plains. There are a great many goslins
along the banks.

Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a
willow island on the north side, behind which enters a creek
called by the Indians Tarkio. Above this creek on the north
the low lands are subject to overflow, and further back the
undergrowth of vines particularly, is so abundant that they
can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio we
encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately
opposite the river Nemahaw.

Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose
of refreshing the party, and making lunar observations.
The Nemahaw empties itself into the Missouri from
the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence, which
is in lat. 39° 55′ 56″. Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque
about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower
side. On going ashore he found in the level plain several

artificial mounds or graves, and on the adjoining hills others
of a larger size. This appearance indicates sufficiently the
former population of this country, the mounds being certainly
intended as tombs; the Indians of the Missouri still preserving
the custom of interring the dead on high ground.
From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect
presented itself—the level and extensive meadows watered
by the Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs
skirting the borders of the river and its tributary streams—
the lowland of the Missouri covered with undulating grass,
nearly five feet high, gradually rising into a second plain,
where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with copses
of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of
trees; an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri,
resembling our own, but larger, and growing on a small
bush; and the chokecherry, which we observed for the first
time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are nearly ripe.
On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile
from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various
inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand
island where we are encamped, is covered with the two species
of willow, broad and narrow leaf.

July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind
from the south, and at two miles, passed the mouth of a small
river on the north, called Big Tarkio. A channel from the
bed of the Missouri once ran into this river, and formed an
island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled up,
and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on
to the south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a
grass resembling timothy in its general appearance, except
the seed which is like flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines.
At twelve miles, we passed an island on the north,
above which is a large sandbar covered with willows: and
at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in the
middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which
extends to the hills four or five miles distant, though near

the bank the land is low, and subject to be overflowed. This
day was exceedingly fine and pleasant, a storm of wind and
rain from north-northeast, last night, having cooled the air.

July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven
o'clock, when we set out. We had just reached the end of the
sand island, and seen the opposite banks falling in, and so
lined with timber that we could not approach it without
danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast, struck
the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly
dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had
not leaped into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and
cable kept her off: the waves dashing over her for the space
of forty minutes; after which, the river became almost
instantaneously calm and smooth. The two periogues
were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately
no damage was done to the boats or the loading. The
wind having shifted to the southeast, we came at the distance
of two miles, to an island on the north, where we dined.
One mile above, on the same side of the river, is a small factory,
where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes
and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland,
part of which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is
rich and well timbered. The wind again changed to northwest
by north. At seven and a half miles, we reached the
lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small
distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians,
Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly
as large as the Mine river, and runs parallel to the Missouri
the greater part of its course, being fifty yards wide
at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw wild-timothy,
lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the
river, summer-grapes, plums, and gosseberries. We also
saw to-day, for the first time, some elk, at which some of the
party shot, but at too great a distance. We encamped on
the north side of the island, a little above Nishnahbatona,
having made nine miles. The river fell a little.

July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment
before seven. At about four miles, we reached the extremity
of the large island, and crossing to the south, at the
distance of seven miles, arrived at the Little Nemaha, a small
river from the south, forty yards wide a little above its mouth,
but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying into the
Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles,
we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the
southern bank, is a rich lowland covered with peavine, and
rich weeds, and watered by small streams rising in the adjoining
prairies. They too, are rich, and though with abundance
of grass, have no timber except what grows near the
water: interspersed thorugh both are grapevines, plums
of two kinds, two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and
gosseberries. On the south there is one unbroken plain; on
the north the river is skirted with some timber, behind which
the plain extends four or five miles to the hills, which seem
to have little wood.

July 16. We continued our route between a large island
opposite to our last night's encampment, and an extensive
prairie on the south. About six miles, we came to another
large island, called Fairsun island, on the same side; above
which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the hill have
fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for
two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place
the river is about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber,
or sawyers, may be seen, scattered across the whole of
its bottom. At twenty miles distance, we saw on the south,
an island called by the French, l'Isle Chance, or Bald island,
opposite to a large prairie, which we called Baldpated
prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running
parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from
three to six miles distance. To the south the hills touch the
river. We encamped a quarter of a mile beyond this, in a
point of woods on the north side. The river continues to
fall.

Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order
to make observations and correct the chronometer, which
ran down on Sunday. The latitude we found to be 40° 27′
5″ 4/10. The observation of the time proved our chronometer
too slow, by 6′ 51″ 6/10. The highlands bear from our camp,
north 25° west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the
country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve
miles from its mouth, at a place not more than three hundred
yards from the Missouri, and a little above our camp.
It then passes near the foot of the Baldhills, and is at least
six feet below the level of the Missouri. On its banks
are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current
of the Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40″, at
some places, and even 20″.

Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle
wind from southeast by south, carried us along between the
prairie on the north, and Bald island to the south: opposite
the middle of which, the Nishnahbatona approaches the
nearest to the Missouri. The current here ran fifty fathoms
in 41″. At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an island
on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on
the south, the hills project over the river and form high
cliffs. At one point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters
of a mile in length, and about two hundred feet in height, has
fallen into the river. It is composed chiefly of sandstone
intermixed with an iron ore of bad quality; near the bottom
is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed several bad
sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles,
and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of
the Oven islands. The country around is generally divided
into prairies, with little timber, except on low points,
islands, and near creeks, and that consisting of cottonwood,
mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls fast. An Indian
dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost
and was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he
would not follow us.

Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two
in number; one near the south shore, the other in the middle
of the river. Opposite to them is the prairie, called
Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name. At four and a
half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth,
on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water,
rising in the adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deer-lick,
about two hundred yards from its mouth. In this
neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in the bank. At two
and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the hill,
for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river.
We encamped on the western extremity of an island,
in the middle of the river, having made ten and three quarter
miles. The river falls a little. The sandbars which
we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the rolling sands
more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these
obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The
Missouri here is wider also than below, where the timber
on the banks resists the current; while here the prairies
which approach, are more easily washed and undermined.
The hunters have brought for the last few days, no quadruped,
but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen today:
one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered
opposite our encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.

Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and
this morning was foggy and cool. We passed at about three
miles distance, a small willow island to the north, and a creek
on the south, about twenty-five yards wide, called by the
French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and emptying
itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made
two and a half miles to another island; three miles further
to a third: six miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the
head of which we encamped on the southern shore; in all
eighteen miles. The party, who walked on the shore today,
found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched

with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering
trees about the sources of the runs, which are numerous
and fine. On the north, is a similar prairie country.
The river continues to fall. A large yellow wolf was this
day killed. For a month past the party have been troubled
with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These
biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms,
on the legs, and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action,
which sometimes became too painful to permit the men
to work. After remaining some days, they disappeared without
any assistance, except a poultice of the bark of the elm,
or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the
muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general
health of the party, which is quite as good, if not better,
than that of the same number of men in any other situation.

Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast,
by the aid of which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow
island on the south, near high lands covered with timber,
at the bank, and formed of limestone with cemented shells:
on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the land near it is
cut through at high water, by small channels forming a
number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and
we reached, in the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte,
at the distance of fourteen miles. The highlands which
had accompanied us on the south, for the last eight or ten
miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile from the
entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended
the river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the
current very rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a
number of channels; none of which are deeper than five or
six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who spent two winters on
it, says that it spreads much more at some distance from the
mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six
feet; that there are many small islands scattered through
it, and that from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it
cannot be navigated by boats or periogues, though the Indians

pass it in small flat canoes made of hides. That the Saline
or Salt river, which in some seasons is too brackish to be
drank, falls into it from the south about thirty miles up, and
a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running nearly
parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much
more rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with
moving sands, and drives the current on the northern shore,
on which it is constantly encroaching. At its junction the
Platte is about six hundred yards wide, and the same number
of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty we
worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came
to above the point, having made fifteen miles. A number
of wolves were seen and heard around us in the evening.

July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having
found at the distance of ten miles from the Platte, a high
and shaded situation on the north, we encamped there, intending
to make the requisite observations, and to send for
the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known
the recent change in the government, and the wish of the
United States to cultivate their friendship.