University of Virginia Library

Chapter XXVII
PART I

FROM WALLA WALLA RIVER TO LAWYER'S
CAÑON CREEK

XXVII. Lewis's Journal, May 2–7, 1806
Clark's Journal, May 2–7

[Lewis:]

Friday May 2nd. 1806.

THIS morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we
had much difficulty in collecting our horses. at
8 A.M. we obtained them all except the horse we
obtained from the Chopunnish man whom we seperated from
yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make some
attempts to rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had
him as we thought securely hubbled both before and at the
side, but he broke the strings in the course of the night and
absconded. we sent several men in different directions in surch
of him. I engaged one of the young indians who overtook
us last evening to return in surch of him. at half after 1 P.M.
The indian and Joseph Feilds returned with the horse, they
had found him on his way back about 17 Ms. I paid the
indian the price stipulated for his services and we immediately
loaded up and set forward. steered East 3 M. over a hilly
road along the N. side of the Creek, wide bottom on the S.
side. a branch falls in on S. side which runs south towards
the. S.W. mountains which appear to be about 25 Ms. distant
low yet covered with snow. N. 75. E. 7. through an extensive
level bottom. more timber than usual on the creek, some
pine of the long leafed kind appears on the sides of the creek
hills, also about 50 acres of well timbered pine land where we
passed the creek at 4 M. on this course. N. 45. E. 9 Ms. repassed
the creek at 4 M. and continued up a N. E. branch of
the same which falls in about a mile below where we passed

the main creek. the bottoms th[r]ough which we passed were
wide. the main creek boar to the S. and heads in the Mountains;
it's bottoms are much narrower above where we passed
it and the hills appear high. we passed the small creek at
8 3/4 from the commencement of this course and encamped on
the N. side in a little bottom, having traveled 19 miles today.[1]
at this place the road leaves the creek and takes the open high
plain. this creek is about 4 yds. wide and bears East as far as
I could observe it. I observed considerable quantities of the
quâmash in the bottoms through which we passed this evening
now in blume. there is much appearance of beaver and otter
along these creeks. saw two deer at a distance; also observed
many sandhill crains Curloos and other fowls common to the
plains. the soil appears to improve as we advance on this
road. our hunters killed a duck only. the three young men
of the Wallahwollah nation continued with us. in the course
of the day I observed them eat the inner part of the young
and succulent stem of a large coarse plant with a ternate leaf,
the leafets of which are three loabed and covered with a woolly
pubersence. the flower and fructification resembles that of the
parsnip this plant is very common in the rich lands on the
Ohio and it's branches the Mississippi &c. I tasted of this
plant found it agreeable and eat heartily of it without feeling
any inconvenience.[2]

[Clark:]

Friday May 2nd 1806.

This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had
much dificuelty in collecting our horses. at 8 A. M. we
obtained them all except the horses we obtained from the
Chopunnish man whome we seperated from yesterday. we
apprehended that this horse would make some attempts to
rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we
thought securely hobbled both before and at the side, but he
broke the strings in the course of the night and absconded.

we sent several men in different directions in serch of him, and
hired one of the men who joined us last night to prosue him
and over take us & at 1/2 after 1 P.M. the indian and Joseph
Fields returned with the horse they had found him on his
way back about 17 miles. I paid the Indian the price stipulated
for his services and we imediately loaded up and set
forward. East 3 miles over a hilly road along the N. Side
of the Creek. wide bottoms on the S. Side. a branch falls
in on the S. side which runs from the S. W. Mountains, which
appear to be about 25 m. distant low yet covered with snow.
N. 75° E. 7 m. through an extencive leavel bottom. more
timber than usial on the Creek. some pine of the long leaf
kind appear on the creek hills. also about 50 acres of well
timbered pine land where we passed the creek at 4 m. on the
course. N. 45° E. 9 m. passed the creek at 4 m. and continued
up on the N. E. Side, the bottoms wide. the main
creek bear to the S. and head in the Mountains. we passed
a small creek at 8 3/4 m. from the commencement of this
course and encamped on the N. Side in a little bottom, haveing
traviled 19 miles to day. at this place the road leaves the
creek and passes through the open high plains. this creek
is 5 yds wide and bears East towards the Mts. I. observed a
considerable quantity of the qua mash in the bottoms through
which we passed this evening now in blume. there is much
appearance of beaver & otter along these creeks. Saw two
deer at a distance, also sand hill cranes, Curloos and fowls,
common to the plains. the soil appears to improve as we
advance on this road. our hunters killed a deer only. The
three young men of the Wallahwallah nation continue with us
in the course of this day. I observed them cut the inner part
of the young and succulent stem of a large corse plant with a
ternate Ieaf, the leafets of which are three loabes and covered
with woolly puberscence. the flower and fructification resembles
that of the parsnip. this plant is very common in the
rich lands on the Ohio and its branches. I tasted of this plant
found it agreeable and eate hartily of it without feeling any
inconveniance.

[Lewis:]

Saturday May 3rd. 1806.

This morning we set out at 7 A.M. steered N. 25. E. 12
Ms. to Kimooenem Creek[3] through a high level plain. this
creek is about 12 yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges
a considerable body of water it heads in the S.W.
mountains and discharges itself into Lewis's river a few miles
above the narrows. the bottoms of this creek are narrow with
some timber principally Cottonwood and willow. the under
brush such as mentioned on N. East Creek. the hills are
high and abrupt. the land of the plains is much more fertile
than below, less sand and covered with taller grass; very little
of the aromatic shrubs appear in this part of the plain. we
halted and dined at this creek; after which we again proceeded
N. 45. E. 3 M. through the high plain to a small [Pataha]
creek 5 yds. wide branch of the Kimooenem C. this stream falls
into the creek some miles below. the hills of this creek like
those of the Kimooenem are high it's bottoms narrow and
possess but little timber. lands of a good quality, a dark rich
loam. we continued our rout up this creek, on it's N. side.
N. 75. E. 7 Ms. the timber increases in quantity the hills continue
high. East 4 Ms. up the creek. here we met with the
We-ark-koomt [Weahkoonut—Biddle] whom we have usually
distinguished by the name of the bighorn Cheif from the circumstance
of his always wearing a horn of that animal suspended
by a cord to the left arm. he is the 1st Cheif of a
large band of the Chopunnish nation. he had 10 of his young
men with him. this man went down Lewis's river by land as
we decended it by water last fall quite to the Columbia and I
beleive was very instrumental in procuring us a hospitable and
friendly reception among the natives. he had now come a
considerable distance to meet us. after meeting this cheif we
continued still up the creek bottoms N. 75. E. 2 M to the
place at which the road leaves the creek and ascends the hills
to the plain here we encamped[4] in [a] small grove of cottonwood

trees which in some measure broke the violence of the
wind. we came 28 Ms. today, it rained hailed snowed and
blowed with great violence the greater portion of the day. it
was fortunate for us that this storm was from the S.W. and of
course on our backs. the air was very cold. we divided the
last of our dryed meat at dinner when it was consumed as well
as the ballance of our dogs nearly we made but a scant
supper and had not anything for tomorrow; however We-ark-koomt
consoled us with the information that there was an
indian lodge on the river at no great distance where we might
supply ourselves with provision tomorrow. our guide and the
three young Wallahwollahs left us this morning reather abruptly
and we have seen nothing of them since. the S.W. mountains
appear to become lower as they proceede to the N.E. this
creek reaches the mountains. we are nearer to them than we
were last evening.

[Clark:]

Saturday 3rd. May 1806.

This morning we set out at 7 A. M. steared N. 25°. E 12
m. to Kimooenimm Creek through a high leavel plain. this
Creek is 12 yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges
a considerable quanty of water it heads in the S W. Mountains
and discharges it self into Lewis's river a fiew miles above
the narrows. the bottoms of this creek is narrow with some
timber principally cotton wood & willow. the under brash
such as mentioned in the N E. creek. The hills are high and
abrupt. the lands of the plains is much more furtile than
below, less sand and covered with taller grass; very little of
the aramatic shrubs appear in this part of the plain. we
halted and dined at this Creek. after which we again proceeded
N. 45°. E. 3 ms. through a high plain to a small creek 5
yds. wide, a branch of the Kimooenimm Creek. the hills of
this stream like those of the Kimooenimm are high its bottoms
narrow and possess but little timber. the land of a good
quallity dark rich loam. we continued our rout up this creek
on it's N. Side N. 75°. E 7 ms. the timber increas in quantity
the hills continue high. we met with the We ark koomt whome

we have usially distinguished by the name of the big horn
Chief from the circumstance of his always wareing a horn of
that animal suspended by a cord to his left arm. he is a
1st. chief of a large band of the Chopunnish Nation. he had
ten of his young men with him. this man went down Lewis's
river by Land as we decended it by water last fall quite to the
Columbia, and I believe was very instrumental in precureing
us a hospita[b]l[e] and friendly reception among the nativs.
he had now come a considerable distance to meet us. after
meeting this Chief we continued still up the creek bottoms
N. 75°. E. 2 m. to the place at which the roade leaves the creek
and assends the hill to the high plains. here we Encamped in
a small grove of Cotton trees which in some measure broke the
violence of the wind, we came 28 miles today. it rained,
hailed, snowed & blowed with Great Violence the greater portion
of the day. it was fortunate for us that this storm was
from the S.W. and of course on our backs. the air was very
cold. we devided the last of our dried meat at dinner when it
was consumed as well as the ballance of our dogs nearly we
made but a scant supper, and had not any thing for tomorrow;
however We-ark-koomt consoled us with the information that
there was an Indian Lodge on the river at no great distance
where we might supply ourselves with provisions tomorrow.
our guide and the three young Wallahwallah's left us this morning
reather abruptly and we have seen nothing of them since.
the S W. Mountains appear to become lower as they receed
to the N E. This creek reaches the mountains. we are
much nearer to them than we were last evening. they are
covered with timber and at this time snow.

[Lewis:]

Sunday May 4th. 1806.

Collected our horses and set out early; the morning was
cold and disagreeable. we ascended the Lard. hills of the creek
and steered N. 60°. E. 4 miles through a high level plain to a
ravine which forms the source of a small creek, thence down
this creek N. 75. E. 8 Ms. to it's entrance into Lewis's river

7 1/2 ms. below the entrance of the Kooskooske.[5] on the river
a little above this creek we arrived at a lodge of 6 families of
which We-ark-koomt had spoken. we halted here for breakfast
and with much difficulty purchase[d] 2 lean dogs. the
inhabitants were miserably poor. we obtained a few large
cakes of half cured bread made of a root which resembles the
sweet potatoe, with these we made some soope and took breakfast.
the lands through which we passed today are fertile
consisting of a dark rich loam. the hills of the river are high
and approach it nearly on both sides. no timber in the plains.
the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Ms. above
us still continue to become lower they are covered with snow
at present nearly to their bases. Lewis's river appea[r]s to
pass through these Mots. near their N. Eastern extremity.
these hills terminate in a high level plain between the Kooskooske
and Lewis's river. these plains are in many places
well covered with the Longleafed pine, with some Larch and
balsom fir. the soil is extreemly fertile no[r] dose it appear
so thi[r]sty as that of the same apparent texture of the open
plains. it produces great quantities of the quawmash a root
of which the natives are extreemly fond. a great portion of
the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in small
vilages through this plain collecting the quawmash and cows;[6]
the salmon not yet having arrived to call them to the river.
the hills of the creek which we decended this morning are high
and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our packhorses
sliped from one of those hights and fell into the creek with
it's load consisting principally of ammunition but fortunately
neith[er] the horse nor load suffered any material injury.
the amunition being secured in canisters the water did not
effect it. after dinner we continued our rout up the West side
of the river 3 Ms opposite to 2 lodges the one containing 3
and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish nation; here we
met with Te-toh-ar-sky, the youngest of the two cheifs who
accompanied us last fall [to] the great falls of the Columbia
we also met with our pilot who decended the river with us as
far as the Columbia. these indians recommended our passing
the river at this place and ascending the Kooskooske on the
N.E. side. they said it was nearer and a better rout to the
forkes of that river where the twisted hair resided in whose
charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to conduct
us. we determined to take the advice of the indians and
immediately prepared to pass the river which with the assistance
of three indian canoes we effected in the course of the
evening, purchased a little wood and some bread of cows
(a root) from the natives and encamped having traveled 15 Ms.
only today. We-ark-koomt whose people resided on the
West side of Lewis's river above left us when we determined
to pass the river and went on to his lodg. the evening was
cold and disagreeable, and the natives crouded about our fire
in great numbers insomuch that we could scarcely cook or
keep ourselves warm. at all these lodges of the Chopunnish
I observe an appendage of a small lodg with one fire which
seems to be the retreat of their women in a certain situation
[Si M] the men are not permitted to approach this lodge
within a certain distance and if they have anything to convey
to the occupants of this little hospital they stand at the distance
of 50 or 60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they can
and retire.

[Clark:]

Sunday May 4th. 1806.

Collected our horses and set out early; the morning was
cold and disagreeable. we assended the Larboard Hill of the
Creek and Steared N 60°. E 4 m. through a high leavil plain
to a revine which forms the source of a small creek, thence
down the Creek N 75°. E. 8 ms. to it's enterance into Lewis's
river 7 1/2 ms. below the enterance of Kooskooske. on the
river a little above this Creek we arived at a lodge of 6 families
of which We-ark′-koomt had spoken. We halted here for

brackfast and with much dificuelty purchased 2 lean dogs.
the inhabitants were miserably pore. we obtained a fiew large
cakes of half cured bread made of a root which resembles the
sweet potatoe, with these we made some soope and took brackfast.
the lands through which we passed to day are fertile
consisting of a dark rich loam. the hills of the river are high
and abrupt approaching it nearly on both sides. no timber
in the plains. the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about
15 miles from us still continue to become lower, they are covered
with snow at present nearly to their bases. Lewis's river
appear to pass through those Mountains near the N Eastern
extremity. those hills termonate in a high leavil plain between
the Kooskoske & Lewis's river. these plains are in maney
places well covered with the long leafed pine and some balsom
fir. the soil is extreamly fertile. no[r] does it appear so
thirsty as that of the same apparrant texture of the open plains.
it produces great quantities of the quawmash a root of which
the nativs are extreemly fond. a Great portion of the Chopunnish
we are informed are now distributed in small Villages
through this plain Collecting the Cowse a white meley root
which is very fine in soup after being dried and pounded; the
Salmon not yet haveing arived to call them to the river. The
hills of the Creek which we decended this morning are high
and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our pack horses
sliped from one of those hights and fell into the Creek with
it's load consisting principally of amunition, but fortunately
neither the horse nor load suffered any material injury. the
amunition being secured in canisters the water did not effect
it. after dinner we continued our rout up the West Side of
the river 3 ms opposit 2 Lodges the one containing 3 and the
other 2 families of the Chopunnish Nation; here we met with
Te-toh-ar-sky the oldest of the two Chiefs who accompanied us
last fall to the Great falls of the Columbia. here we also met
with our old pilot who decended the river with us as low as the
Columbia these indians recommended our passing the river
at this place and going up on the N E Side of the Kooskoske.
they sayed it was nearer and a better rout to the forks of that
river where the twisted hair resided in whose charge we had
left our horses; thither they promised to conduct us. we
determined to take the advise of the indians and imediately
prepared to pass the river which with the assistance of three
indian canoes we effected in the course of the evening, purchased
a little wood, some Cows bread and encamped, haveing
traveled 15 miles to day only. We-ark-koomt whose people
reside on the West Side of Lewis's river above left us when
we deturmined to pass the river. before he left us he expressed
his concern that his people would be deprived of the pleasure
of seeing us at the forks at which place they had assembled
to shew us sivilities &c. I gave him a small piece of tobacco
and he went off satisfied. the evening was cold and disagreeable,
and the nativs crouded about our fire in great numbers
in so much that we could scercely cook or keep ourselves
worm. at all those Lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an
appendage of a small lodge with one fire, which seames to be
the retreat of their women in a certain situation. the men are
not permited to approach this Lodge within a certain distance,
and if they have any thing to convey to the occupents of this
little hospital they stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and
throw it towards them as far as they can and retire.

[Lewis:]

Monday May 5th. 1806.

Collected our horses and set out at 7 A.M. at 4 1/2 miles we
arrived at the entrance of the Kooskooske, up the N. Eastern
side of which we continued our march 12 Ms. to a large lodge
of 10 families having passed two other large mat lodges the
one at 5 and the other at 8 ms. from the mouth of the Kooskooske
but not being able to obtain any provision at either
of those lodges continued our march to the third where we
arrived at 1 P.M. & with much difficulty obtained 2 dogs and
a small quan[ti]ty of root bread and dryed roots. at the second
lodge we passed an indian man [who] gave Capt. C. a very
eligant grey mare for which he requested a phial of eyewater
which was accordingly given him. while we were encamped
last fall at the entrance of the Chopunnish river Capt. C. [with
much seremony washed & rubd.] gave an indian man some volitile

linniment to rub his k[n]ee and thye for a pain of which he
complained [and was well, but had not walked for many months],
the fellow soon after recovered and has never ceased to extol
the virtues of our medicines and the skill of my friend Capt. C.
as a phisician. this occurrence added to the benefit which
many of them experienced from the eyewater we gave them
about the same time has given them an exalted opinion of our
medicine. my friend Capt. C. is their favorite phisician and
has already received many applications. in our present situation
I think it pardonable to continue this deseption for they
will not give us any provision without compensation in merchandize
and our stock is now reduced to a mere handfull.
We take care to give them no article which can possibly injure
them. we fou[n]d our Chopunnish guide at this lodge with
his family. the indians brought us Capt. Clark's horse from
the oposite side of the river and delivered him to us while
here[7] . this horse had by some accedent seperated from our
other horses above and had agreeably to indian information
been in this neighbourhood for some weeks. while at dinner
an indian fellow verry impertinently threw a poor half starved
pappy nearly into my plait by way of derision for our eating
dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; I was
so provoked at his insolence that I caught the puppy and
th[r]ew it with great violence at him and stru[c]k him in the
breast and face, siezed my tomahawk and shewed him by signs
if he repeated his insolence I Would tommahawk him, the
fellow withdrew apparently much mortifyed and I continued
my repast on dog without farther molestation. after dinner we
continued our rout 4 miles to the entrance of Colter's Creek
about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we sunk the 1st. canoe
as we decended the river last fall[8] . we encamped on the lower
side of this creek at a little distance from two lodges of the
Chopunnish nation having traveled 20 1/2 Ms. today. one of these
lodges contained eight families the other was much the largest
we have yet seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 wide built
of mats and straw. in the form of the roof of a house having
a number of small doors on each side, is closed at the ends and
without divisions in the intermediate space this lodge contained
at least 30 families.[9] their fires are kindled in a row
in the center of the house and about 10 feet assunder. all the
lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived
here extreemly hungry and much fatiegued, but no articles of
merchandize in our possession would induce them to let us
have any article of provision except a small quantity of bread
of cows and some of those roots dryed. we had several applications
to assist their sick which we refused unless they would
let us have some dogs or horses to eat. a man [Chief] whose
wife had an absess formed on the small of her back promised
a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her
accordingly Capt. C. opened the absess introduced a tent and
dressed it with basilicon; [Capt. C soon had more than 50 applications]
I prepared some dozes of the flour of sulpher and creem
of tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each
morning. a little girl and sundry other patients were offered
for cure but we postponed our operations untill morning; they
produced us several dogs but they were so poor that they were
unfit for use. This is the residence of one of 4 principal
Cheifs of the nation whom they call Neesh-ne,-park-ke-ook or
the cut nose from the circumstance of his nose being cut by the
snake indians with a launce in battle. to this man we gave
a medal of the small size with the likeness of the President.
he may be a great cheif but his countenance has but little
inteligence and his influence among his people seems but inconsiderable.
a number of indians beside the inhabitants of these
lodges geathered about us this evening and encamped in the
timbered bottom on the creek near us. we met with a snake
indian man at this place through whome we spoke at some
length to the natives this evening with rispect to the objects
which had induced us to visit their country. this address was
induced at this moment by the suggestions of an old man who
observed to the natives that he thought we were bad men and
had come most probably in order to kill them. this impression
if really entertained I beleive we effaced; they appeared well
satisfyed with what we said to them, and being hungry and
tired we retired to rest at 11 OClock. We-ark-koomt rejoined
us this evening. this man has been of infinite service to us
on several former occasions and through him we now offered
our address to the natives.

[Clark:]

Monday May 5th. 1806

Collected our horses and set out at 7 A. M. at 4 1/2 ms. we
arived at the enterance of Kooskooske, up the N E Side of
which we continued our march 12 miles to a large lodge of 10
families haveing passed two other large Mat Lodges the one at
5 and the other at 8 miles from the Mouth of the Kosskooske,
but not being able to obtain provisions at either of those
Lodges continued our march to the 3rd. where we arived at
1 P. M. and with much dificuelty obtained 2 dogs and a small
quantity of bread and dryed roots. at the second Lodge of
Eight families Capt L. & myself both entered smoked with a
man who appeared to be a principal man. as we were about
to leave his lodge and proceed on our journey, he brought forward
a very eligant Gray mare and gave her to me, requesting
some eye water. I gave him a phial of Eye water a handkerchief
and some small articles of which he appeared much pleased.
while we Were encamped last fall at the enterance of Chopunnish
river, I gave an Indian man some Volitile liniment to
rub his knee and thye for a pain of which he complained,
the fellow soon after recovered and have never seased to extol
the virtue of our medicines. near the enterance of the Kooskooske,
as we decended last fall I met with a man, who could
not walk with a tumure on his thye, this had been very bad
and recovering fast. I gave this man a jentle pirge cleaned
& dressed his sore and left him some casteel soap to wash the
sore which soon got well. this man also assigned the restoration
of his leg to me. those two cures has raised my reputation
and given those nativs an exolted oppinion of my skill as
a phi[si]cian. I have already received maney applications.

in our present situation I think it pardonable to continue this
deception for they will not give us any provisions without
compensation in merchendize, and our stock is now reduced to
a mear handfull. We take care to give them no article which
can possibly injure them, and in maney cases can administer
& give such medicine & sirgical aid as will effectually restore
in simple cases &c. We found our Chopunnish Guide with
his family. the Indians brought my horse which was left at
the place we made canoes, from the opposit side and delivered
him to me while here. this horse had by some accident
seperated from our other horses above, and agreeably to indian
information had been in this neighbourhood some weeks.
while at dinner an indian fellow very impertinently threw a
half starved puppy nearly into the plate of Capt. Lewis by way
of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very hartily at his
own impertinence; Capt L.—was so provoked at the insolence
that he cought the puppy and threw it with great violence at
him and struck him in the breast and face, seazed his toma-hawk,
and shewed him by sign that if he repeeted his insolence
that he would tomahawk him, the fellow withdrew apparently
much mortified and we continued our Dinner without further
molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to
the enterance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the
rapid where we sunk the 1st. canoe as we decended the river
last fall. We encamped on the lower side of this creek a
little distance from two Lodges of the Chopunnish nation
haveing traviled 20 1/2 miles to day one of those Lodges contained
8 families, the other was much the largest we have yet
seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide built of Mats
and straw, in the form of the roof of a house haveing a number
of small dores on each side, is closed at the ends and without
divisions in the intermediate space. this lodges at least 30
families. their fires are kindled in a row in the center of the
Lodge and about 10 feet assunder. all the Lodges of these
people are formed in this manner. we arrived here extreemly
hungary and much fatigued, but no articles of merchindize in
our possession would induce them to let us have any article of
Provisions except a small quantity of bread of Cows and some
of those roots dryed. We had several applications to assist
their sick which we refused unless they would let us have
some dogs or horses to cat. a man whose wife had an abcess
formed on the small of her back promised a horse in the
morning provided we would administer to her, 1 examined
the abcess and found it was too far advanced to be cured. I
told them her case was desperate. agreeably to their request
I opened the abcess. I then introduced a tent and dressed it
with bisilican; and prepared some dozes of the flour of
sulpher and creem of tarter which were given with directions
to be taken on each morning. a little girl and sundery other
patients were brought to me for cure but we posponed our
opperations untill the morning; they produced us several
dogs but they were so pore that they were unfit to eat. This
is the residence of one of four principal Cheafs of the nation
whome they call Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook or the Cut nose from the
circumstance of his nose being cut by the Snake Indians with
a launce battle. to this man we gave a Medal of the small
size with a likeness of the President. he may be a great Chief
but his countinance has but little inteligence and his influence
among his people appears very inconsiderable. a number of
Indians besides the inhabitents of these Lodges gathered about
us this evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the
creek near us. We met with a Snake indian man at this place
through whome we spoke at some length to the nativs this
evening with respect to the objects which had enduced us to
visit their country. this address was induced at this moment
by the Suggestions of an old man who observed to the nativs
that he thought we were bad men and had come most probably
in order to kill them. this impression if really entertained I
believe we effected [effaced]; they appeared well satisfied with
what we said to them, and being hungary and tired we retired
to rest at 11 oClock. We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening.
this man has been of infinate service to us on several former
occasions and through him we now offered our address to the
nativs.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday May 6th. 1806.

This morning the husband of the sick woman was as good
as his word, he produced us a young horse in tolerable order
which we immediately killed and butchered. the inhabitants
seemed more accomodating this morning; they sold us some
bread. we received a second horse for medicine and prescription
for a little girl with the rheumatism. Capt. C. dressed
the woman again this morning who declared that she had
rested better last night than she had since she had been sick.
sore eyes is an universal complaint with all the natives we have
seen on the west side of the Rocky mountains. Capt. C. was
busily engaged for several hours this morning in administering
eye-water to a croud of applicants. we once more obtained a
plentifull meal, much to the comfort of all the party. I exchanged
horses with We-ark′-koomt and gave him a small
flag with which he was much gratifyed. the sorrel I obtained
is an eligant strong active well broke horse perfictly calculated
for my purposes. at this place we met with three men of a
nation called the Skeets-so-mish[10] who reside at the falls of a
large river dis[c]harging itself into the Columbia on it's East
side to the North of the entrance of Clark's river, this river
they informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and
that the falls below which they resided was at no great distance
from the lake. these people are the same in their dress and
appearance with the Chopunnish, tho' their language is intirely
different a circumstance which I did not learn untill we were
about to set out and it was then too late to take a Vocabulary.
The river here called Clark's river is that which we have
heretofore called the Flathead river. I have thus named it in
honour of my worthy friend and fellow traveller Capt. Clark.
for this stream we know no indian name and no white man but
ourselves was ever on it's principal branches, the river which
Fidler calls the great lake river may possibly be a branch of

it but if so it is but a very inconsiderable branch and may as
probably empty itself Into the Skeets-somish as into that
river. the stream which I have heretofore called Clark's river
had it's three principal sources in mountains Hood, Jefferson
& the Northern side of the S.W. mountains and is of course a
short river. this river I shall in future call the To-wanna-hiooks
river it being the name by which it is called by the
Eneshur nation. The Kooskooske river may be safely navigated
at present all the rocks of the shoals and rapids are
perfectly covered; the current is strong, the water clear and
cold. this river is rising fast. The timber of this river which
consists principally of the longleafed pine commences about 2
miles below our present camp on Colter's [Potlatch] Creek.
it was two oclock this evening before we could collect our
horses. at 3 P.M. we set out accompanyed by the brother of
the twisted hair[11] and Wearkkoomt. I directed the horse which
we had obtained for the purpose of eating to be led as it was
yet unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued between
Drewyer and Colter. we continued our march this evening
along the river 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families, built of sticks
mats & dryed hay in the same form of those heretofore discribed.
we passed a lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the road.
no provision of any description was to be obtained of these
people. a little after dlasark our young horse broke the rope
by which he was confined and made his escape much to the
chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of their appetites
last evening. the brother of the twisted hair and Wearkkoomt
with 10 or 12 others encamped with us this evening.

the natives have a considerable salmon fishery up Colter's
Creek. this stream extends itself to the [s]pirs of the rocky
mountain and in much the greater part of it's course passes
through a well timbered pine country it is 25 yds. wide and
discharges a large body of water. the banks low and bed
formed of pebbles. had a small shower of rain this evening.

[Clark:]

Tuesday May 6th 1806

This morning the husband of the sick woman was as good
as his word. he produced us a young horse in tolerable order
which we imediately had killed and butchered. the inhabitents
seemed more accommodating this morning, they sold us
some bread. we received a second horse for medecine &
pro[s]cription to a little girl with the rhumitism whome I had
bathed in worm water, and anointed her a little with balsom
capivia. I dressed the woman again this morning who declared
that she had rested better last night than she had since
she had been sick. sore Eyes is an universal complaint among
all the nations which we have seen on the West Side of the
rocky Mountains. I was busily imployed for several hours
this morning in administering eye water to a crowd of applicants.
we once more obtained a plentiful meal, much to the
comfort of all the party. Capt Lewis exchanged horses with
We ark koomt and gave him a small flag with which he was
much pleased and gratifyed. the sorrel which Cap L. obtained
is a strong active well broke horse. At this place we met
with three men of a nation called the Skeets-so-mish who reside
at the falls of a small river dischargeing Itself Into the Columbia
on its East Side to the South of the enterance of Clarks
river, this river they Informed us headed in a large lake in
the mountains and that the falls below which they reside was
at no great distance from the lake. these people are the same
in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho' their
language Is entirely different. one of them gave me his whip
which was a twisted stick 18 Ins. in length at one end a pice of
raw hide split so as to form two Strings about 20 inches in
length as a lash, to the other end a string passed through a
hole and fastened at each end for a loope to slip over the
wrist. I gave in return for this whip a fathom of narrow
binding. The River here calld. Clarks river is that which we
have heretofore called Flathead river. Capt. Lewis has thought
proper to call this after myself. for this stream we know no
indian name and no white man but our selves was ever on this
river. The river which Fiddler call's the great Lake river
may possiably be a branch of it, but if so it is but a very inconsiderable

branch, and may as probably empty itself into
the Columbia above as into Clarks river. the Stream which
the party has heretofore called Clark river imedeately above
the great falls, has it's three principal branches in Mountains
Jefferson, Hood and the Northern Side of the S. W. Mountains
and is of course a short river. this river is called by the
Skillutes & Eneshure Nations Towannahhiooks which is also
the name they call those bands of Snake indians who come on
this river every spring to catch the C[s]almon. The Kooskooske
river may be safely navigated at present all the rocks of the
sholes and rapids are perfectly covered; the current is strong,
the water clear and cold. this river is riseing fast. The timber
of this river which consists principally of the long leafed pine
which commences about 2 miles below our present encampment
on Colters Creek. it was 2 P M. this evening before
we could collect our horses. at 3. P. M. we set out accompanied
by the brother of the twisted hair and We-ark-koomt.
we derected the horse which I had obtained for the purpose of
eateing to be led as it was unbroke, in performing this duty a
quarrel ensued between Drewyer and Colter. We continued
our march along the river on its North Side 9. miles to a
lodge of 6 families built of sticks mats and dryed Hay, of the
same form of those heretofore discribed. We passed a Lodge
of 3 families at 4 ms. on the river, no provisions of any discription
was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark
our young horse broke the rope by which he was confined and
made his escape much to the chagrin of all who recollected the
keenness of their appetites last evening. the brother of the
twisted hair & Wearkkoomt with 10 others encamped with us
this evening. The nativs have a considerable Salmon fishery
up Colters Creek. this stream extends itself to the spurs of
the Rocky Mountain and in much the greater part of its
course passes through a well timbered pine country, it is
25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks
low and bead formed of pebbles. had a small shower of rain
this evening. The Chopunnish about the mouth of the
Kooskooske bury their dead on stoney hill sides generally,
and as I was informed by an Indian who made signs that they
made a hole in the Grown[d] by takeing away the stones and
earth where they wished to deposit the dead body after which
they laid the body which was previously raped in a robe and
secured with cords, over the body they placed Stones so as
to form a sort of arch on the top of which they put stones and
earth so as to secure the body from the wolves and birds &c.
they sometimes inclose the grave with a kind of sepulcher like
the roof of a house formed of the canoes of the disceased.
they also sacrifice the favorite horses of the disceased, the
bones of many of which we see on and about the graves.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday May 7th. 1806.

This morning we collected our horses and set out early
accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide;
Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the
river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the entrance
of a small creek[12] , here our guide recommended our passing the
river. he informed us that the road was better on the South
side and that game was more abundant also on that side near
the entrance of the Chopunnish river.[13] we determined to
pursue the rout recommended by the guide and accordingly
unloaded our horses and prepared to pass the river which we
effected by means of one canoe in the course of 4 hours. a
man of this lodge produced us two canisters of powder which
he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they
had been buried in a bottom near the river some miles above,
they were the same which we had buryed as we decended the
river last fall. as he kept them safe and had honesty[14] enough
to return them to us we gave him a fire steel by way of compensation.
during our detention at the river we took dinner,
after which or at 3 P.M. we renewed our march along the
river about 2 Ms over a difficult stony road, when we left the

river and asscended the hills to the wright which are here
mountains high. the face of the country when you once have
ascended the river hills is perfectly level and partially covered
with the long-leafed pine. the soil is a dark rich loam thickly
covered with grass and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull
pasture for horses. in short it is a beautifull fertile and
picturesque country. Neeshneparkeeook overtook us and
after riding with us a few miles turned off to the wright to
visit some lodges of his people who he informed me were
geathering roots in the plain at a little distance from the road.
our guide conducted us through the plain and down a steep
and lengthey hill to a creek which we called Musquetoe Creek
in consequence of being infested with swarms of those insects
on our arrival at it. this is but an inconsiderable stream about
6 yds. wide heads in the plains at a small distance and discharges
itself into the Kooskoo[s]ke 9 miles by water below the entrance
of the Chopunnish river. we struck this creek at the distance
of 5 ms. from the point at which we left the river our cour[s]e
being a little to the S. of East. ascending .the creek one mile
on the S.E. side we arrived at an indian incampment of six
lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here
we remained all night [15] having traveled 12 miles only. the
timbered country on this side of the river may be said to commence
near this creek, and on the other side of the river at a
little distance from it the timber reaches as low as Colter's
Creek. the earth in many parts of these plains is thrown up
in little mounds by some animal whose habits are similar to
the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible;[16] notwithstanding
I have observed the work of this animal th[r]oughout
the whole course of my long tract from St. Louis to the Pacific
ocean I have never obtained a view of this animal. the Shoshone
man of whom I have before made mention overtook us
this evening with Neeshneparkeeook and remained with us
this evening. we suped this evening as we had dined on
horse-beef. we saw several deer this evening and a great
number of the tracks of these animals we determined to
remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some
venison and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn
out early in the morning. The Spurs of the Rocky Mountains
which were in view from the high plain today were perfectly
covered with snow. the Indians inform us that the snow
is yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to
pass them untill the next full moon or about the first of June;
others set the time at still a more distant period. this [is]
unwelcom inteligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef
and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the
fat plains of the Missouri and thence to our native homes.
The Chopunnish bury their dead in Sepulchres formed of
boards like the roofs of houses. the corps[e] is rolled in skin
and laid on boards above the surface of the earth. they are laid
in several teer [tiers] one over another being seperated by a
board only above and below from other corps. I did observe
some instances where the body was laid in an indifferent
wo[o]den box which was placed among other carcases rolled
in skin in the order just mentioned. they sacrifice horses
canoes and every other speceis of property to their ded. the
bones of many horses are seen laying about those sepulchres.
this evening was cold as usual.

[Clark:]

Wednesday May 7th. 1806.

This morning we collected our horses and set out early
accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide;
Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the
river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the enterance
of a small Creek, here our guide recommended our passing the
river, he informed us that the road was better on the South
Side, and that game was more abundant also on that side near
the enterance of Chopunnish river. we deturmined to pursue
the rout recommended by the guide, and accordingly unloaded
our horses and prepared to pass the river which we effected by
means of one canoe in the course of 4 hours. a man of this

lodge produced us two canisters of Powder which he informed
us he had found by means of his dog where they had been
berried in the bottom near the river a fiew miles above. they
were the same which we had berried as we decended the river
last fall. as he had kept them safe and had honisty enough
to return them to us, we gave him a fire Steel by way of compensation.
dureing our detention at the river we took dinner.
after which we renewed our march along the S.E. side of the
river about 2 miles over a dificuelt stoney road, when we left
the river and assended the hills to the right which are here
mountains high. the face of the country when you have once
assended the river hills, is perfectly level and partially covered
with the long leafed pine. the soil is a dark rich loam, thickly
covered with grass and herbatious plants which afford a delightful
pasture for horses. in short it is a butifull fertile picteresque
country. Neeshneparkeeook overtook us and after rideing
with us a fiew miles turned off to the right to visit some lodges
of his people who he informed us were gathering roots in the
plains at a little distance from the road. our guide conducted
us through the plain and down a steep and lengthy hill to a
creek which we call Musquetoe Creek in consequence of being
infested with sworms of those insects on our arival at it. this
is but an inconsiderable stream about 6 yards wide heads in
the plains at a short distance and discharges itself into the
Kooskooske 9 ms. by water below the forks. we struck this
Creek at the distance of 5 miles from the point at which
we left the river, our course being a little to the S. of East.
we proceeded up the Creek one mile and on the S. E. Side we
arived at an old Indian incampment of Six Lodges which
appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained
all night haveing traveled 12 ms. only. the timbered country
on this side of the river may be said to commence a short distance
below this creek, and on the other side of the river at a
little distance from it the timber reaches as low as Colter's
Creek. the earth in maney parts of those plains is th[r]own
up in little mounds by some animal whose habits are similar
to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding
I have observed the work of this animal throughout
the whole course of my trail from St. Louis to the Pacific
Ocian, I have never obtained a view of this animal. The
Shoshone man of whome I have before mentioned over took us
this evening with Neeshneparkeeook or Cut nose and remained
with us this evening. we suped this evening as we had done
on horse beef. we saw several deer this evening, and a great
number of the tracks of these animals we deturmined to
remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some
venison, and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn
out early in the morning. The spurs of the rocky mountains
which were in view from the high plain to day were perfectly
covered with snow. The Indians inform us that the snow is
yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to pass
them untill after the next full moon or about the first of June.
others set the time at a more distant period. this [is] unwelcom
intiligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and
roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat
plains of the Missouri, and thence to our native homes. The
Chopunnish bury their dead in different ways as I have obse[r]ved,
besides that already discribed they scaffold some and
deposit others in sepulchers, those are rearly to be seen in this
upper part of the Columbian Watters. the one already discribed
is the most common. they all sacrifice horses, canoes
and every Species of property to the dead. the bones of
maney horses are seen lyeing about those repositaries of the
dead &c.

I observed in all the Lodges which we have passed since we
crossed Lewis's river decoys, or stocking [stalking] heads as
they are sometimes called. these decoys are for the deer and
is formed of the skin of the head and upper portion of the
neck of that animale extended in the nateral shape by means
of a fiew little sticks placed within. the hunter when he sees
a deer conseals himself and with his hand givs to the decoy the
action of a deer at feed, and this induces the deer within arrow-shot;
in this mode the Indians near the woody country hunt
on foot in such places where they cannot pursue the deer with
horses which is their favourite method when the grounds will
permit. The orniments worn by the Chopunnish are, in their

nose a single shell of Wampom, the pirl & beeds are suspended
from the ears. beads are worn arround their wrists, neck and
over their sholders crosswise in the form of a double sash.
the hair of the men is cewed in two rolls which hang on each
side in front of the body. Collars of bears claws are also
common; but the article of dress on which they appear to
bestow most pains and orniments is a kind of collar or brest-plate;
this is most commonly a strip of otter skins of about
six inches wide taken out of the center of the skin it's whole
length including the head. this is dressed with the hair on.
this is tied around the neck & hangs in front of the body the
tail frequently reaching below their knees; on this skin in front
is attatched pieces of pirl, beeds, wampom, pices of red cloth
and in short whatever they conceive most valuable or ornamental.