University of Virginia Library

Chapter XXIV

THE START FOR HOME

XXIV. Lewis's Journal, March 18–April 3, 1806
Clark's journal, March 18–April 3

[Lewis:]

Tuesday March 18th. 1806.

DREWYER was taken last night with a violent pain in
his side. Capt. Clark blead him. several of the men
are complaining of being unwell. it is truly unfortunate
that they should be sick at the moment of our departure.
we directed Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two Canoes
which Drewyer brought last evening for his mess. they wanted
some knees to strengthen them and several cracks corked and
payed. he completed them except the latter operation which
the frequent showers in the course of the day prevented as the
canoes could not be made sufficiently dry even with the assistance
of fire. Comowooll and two Cathlahmahs visited us today;
we suffered them to remain all night. this morning we
gave Delashelwilt a certificate of his good deportment &c. and
also a list of our names, after which we dispatched him to his
village with his female band. These lists of our names we
have given to several of the natives and also paisted up a copy
in our room.[1] the object of these lists we stated in the preamble
of the same as follows (viz) "The object of this list is,
that through the medium of some civilized person who may
see the same, it may be made known to the informed world,
that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto
annexed, and who were sent out by the government of
the U'States in May 1804. to explore the interior of the

Continent of North America, did penetrate the same by way
of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the discharge of the
latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the 14th. of
November 1805, and from whence they departed the [blank
space in MS.] day of March 1806 on their return to the
United States by the same rout they had come out." on the
back of some of these lists we added a sketch of the connection
of the upper branches of the Missouri with those of the
Columbia, particularly of it's main S.E. branch, on which we also
delineated the track we had come and that we meant to pursue
on our return where the same happened to vary. There
seemed so many chances against our government ever obtaining
a regular report, through the medium of the savages and
the traders of this coast that we declined making any. our
party are also too small to think of leaving any of them to return
to the U'States by sea, particularly as we shall be necesarily
divided into three or four parties on our return in order
to accomplish the objects we have in view; and at any rate we
shall reach the United States in all human probability much
earlier than a man could who must in the event of his being
left here depend for his passage to the United States on the
traders of the coast who may not return immediately to the
U'States or if they should, might probably spend the next
summer in trading with the natives before they would set out
on their return. this evening Drewyer went in quest of his
traps, and took an Otter. Joseph Fields killed an Elk. The
Indians repeated to us the names of eighteen distinct tribes residing
on the S.E. coast who spoke the Killamucks language,
and beyond those six others who spoke a different language
which they did not comprehend.[2]

[Clark[3] :]

Tuesday March 17 [18]th 1806

Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain in his side.
I bled him. several of the men are complaining of being unwell.
it is truly unfortunate that they should be sick at the

moment of our departure. Derected Sergt. Pryor to prepare
the two Indian Canoes which we had purchased for his mess.
they wanted some knees to strengthen them and several cracks
corked and payed. he compleated them except paying the
frequent showers of rain prevented the canoes drying sufficient
to pay them even with the assistance of fire.

Commorwool and two Cathlahmahs visited us to day; we
suffered them to remain all night. this morning we gave Delashelwilt
a certificate of his good deportment &c. and also a list
of our names, after which we dispatched him to his village with
his female band. Those list's of our names we have given
to several of the nativs, and also posted up a copy in our
room. the object of these lists we stated in the preamble of
the same as follows Viz: "The Object of this list is, that
through the medium of some civilized person who may see the
same, it may be made known to the informed world, that the
party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed;
and who were sent out by the Government of the
United States in May 1804, to explore the interior of the Continent
of North America, did penetrate the same by way of
the Missouri and Columbia rivers, to the discharge of the
latter into the Pacific Ocian, where they arrived on the 14th. of
November 1805, and from whence they departed the [blank
space in MS.] day of March 1806 on their return to the
United States by the same rout they had come out."

On the back of lists we added a sketch of the continent of
the upper branches of the Missouri with those of the Columbia,
particularly of its upper S. E. branch or Lewis's River, on
which we also delienated the track we had came and that we
ment to pursue on our return, when the same happened to
vary. There seemes so many chances against our governments
ever obtaining a regular report, through the medium
of the savages, and the traders of this coast that we decline
makeing any. Our party are too small to think of leaveing
any of them to return to the Unt. States by Sea, particularly
as we shall be necessarily devided into two or three parties
on our return in order to accomplish the Object we have in
View; and at any rate we shall reach the U. States in all

humain probability much earlier than a man could who must
in the event of his being left here depend for his passage to the
U. State[s] on the traders of the coast, who may not return
imediately to the U. States, or if they should, might probably
spend the next summer in tradeing with the nativs before
they would set out on their return. This evening Drewyer
went in quest of his traps, and took an otter. Joseph Field
killed and [an] Elk. The Indians repeated to us Eighteen
distinct Nati[ons] resideing on the S S.E coast who speak the
Kilamox language or understand it. and beyend those six other
Nations which speak a different language which they did not
comprehend.

The 2d. species of seawreck which I saw on the coast to the
S. S. E. near the Kilâmox nation. it resembles a large pumpkin,
it is solid and it's specific Gravity reather greater than the
water, tho' it is sometimes thrown out by the waves. it is of
a pale yellowish brown colour. the rhind smooth and consistency
harder than that of the pumpkin, tho' easily cut with
a knife. there are some fibers of a lighter colour and much
harder than any other part which pass Longitudinally through
the pulp or fleshey substance which forms the interior of this
Marine production.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday March 19th. 1806.

It continued to rain and hail today in such manner that
nothing further could be done to the canoes. a party were
sent out early after the Elk which was killed yesterday with
which they returned in the course of a few hours. we gave
Comowooll alias Connia, a cirtificate of his good conduct and
the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us during
our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our
names, (do not) The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks,
Cathlahmahs and Wâc-ki-a-cums (Qu: Wackms) resemble each
other as well in their persons and dress as in their habits and
manners. their complexion is not remarkable, being the
usual copper brown of most of the tribes of North America.
they are low in statu[r]e reather diminutive, and illy shapen;

poss[ess]ing thick broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs
wide mouths thick lips, nose moderately large, fleshey, wide at
the extremity with large nostrils, black eyes and black coarse
hair. their eyes are sometimes of a dark yellowish brown the
puple black. I have observed some high acqualine noses
among them but they are extreemly rare. the nose is generally
low between the eyes. the most remarkable trait in their physiognomy
is the peculiar flatness and width of forehead which they
artificially obtain by compressing the head between two boards
while in a state of infancy and from which it never afterwards
perfectly recovers. this is a custom among all the nations we
have met with West of the Rocky mountains. I have observed
the heads of many infants, after this singular bandage had been
dismissed, or about the age of 10 or eleven months, that were
not more than two inches thick about the upper edge of the
forehead and reather thiner still higher. from the top of the
head to the extremity of the nose is one streight line. this is
done in order to give a greater width to the forehead, which
they much admire. this process seems to be continued longer
with their female than their mail children, and neither appear
to suffer any pain from the operation. it is from this peculiar
form of the head that the nations East of the Rocky mountains,
call all the nations on this side, except the Aliohtans
or snake Indians, by the generic name of Flatheads. I think
myself that the prevalence of this custom is a strong proof
that [of] those nations having originally proceeded from the
same stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recapitulated
above, wear their hair loosly flowing on the back
and sholders; both men and women divide it on the center of
the crown in front and throw it back behind the ear on each
side. they are fond of combs and use them when they can
obtain them; and even without the aid of the comb keep their
hair in better order than many nations who are in other rispects
much more civilized than themselves. the large or apparently
swolen legs particularly observable in the women are obtained
in a great measure by tying a cord tight around the ankle.
their method of squating or resting themselves on their hams
which they seem from habit to prefer to siting, no doubt
contributes much to this deformity of the legs by preventing
free circulation of the blood. the dress of the man consists
of a smal robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of
the thye and is attatched with a string across the breast and is
at pleasure turned from side to side as they may have occasion
to disencumber the right or left arm from the robe entirely, or
when they have occasion for both hands, the fixture of the
robe is in front with it's corners loosly hanging over their
arms. they sometimes wear a hat which has already been
discribed. this robe is made most commonly of the skins
of a small animal which I have supposed was the brown
Mungo, tho' they have also a number, of the skins of the
tiger cat, some of those of the Elk which are used principally
on their war excursions, others of the skins of the deer panther
and bear and a blanket wove with the fingers of the wool of the
native sheep. a mat is sometimes temperarily thrown over
the sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other
article of cloathing whatever neither winter nor summer. and
every part except the sholders and back is exposed to view.
they are very fond of the dress of the whites, which they wear
in a similar manner when they can obtain them, except the
shoe which I have never seen woarn by any of them. they
call us pâh-shish'-e-ooks, or cloth men. The dress of the
women consists of a robe, tissue, and sometimes when the
weather is uncommonly cold, a vest. their robe is much
smaller than that of the men, never reaching lower than the
waist nor extending in front sufficiently for to cover the body.
it is like that of the men confined across the breast with a
string and hangs loosly over the sholders and back. the
most esteemed and valuable of these robes are made of strips
of the skins of the Sea Otter net together with the bark of
the white cedar or silk-grass. these strips are first twisted and
laid parallel with each other a little distance assunder, and then
net or wove together in such manner that the fur appears
equally on both sides, and unites between the strands. it
make[s] a warm and soft covering. other robes are formed in
a similar manner of the skin of the Rackoon, beaver &c. at
other times the skin is dressed in the hair and woarn without
any further preperation. in this way one beaver skin, or two
of those of the Raccoon or tiger catt forms the pattern of the
robe. the vest is always formed in the manner first discribed
of their robes and covers the body from the armpits to the
waist, and is confined behind, and destitute of straps over the
sholder to keep it up. when this vest is woarn the breast of
the woman is concealed, but without it which is almost always
the case, they are exposed, and from the habit of remaining
loose and unsuspended grow to great length, particularly in
aged women in many of whom I have seen the bubby reach as
low as the waist. The garment which occupys the waist, and
from thence as low as nearly to the knee before and the ham,
behind, cannot properly be denominated a petticoat, in the
common acceptation of that term; it is a tissue of white cedar
bark, bruised or broken into small shreds, which are interwoven
in the middle by means of several cords of the same materials,
which serve as well for a girdle as to hold in place the shreds
of bark which form the tissue, and which shreds confined in
the middle hang with their ends pendulous from the waist,
the whole being of sufficient thickness when the female stands
erect to conceal those parts usually covered from formiliar
view, but when she stoops or places herself in many other
attitudes, this battery of Venus is not altogether impervious to
the inquisitive and penetrating eye of the amorite. This
tissue is sometimes formed of little twisted cords of the silk-grass
knoted at their ends and interwoven as discribed of the
bark. this kind is more esteemed and last much longer than
those of bark. they also form them of flags and rushes which
are woarn in a similar manner. the women as well as the men
sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat woarn over
the sholders. they also cover their heads from the rain sometimes
with a common water cup or basket made of the cedar
bark and beargrass. these people seldom mark their skins
by puncturing and introducing a colouring matter. such
of them as do mark themselves in this manner prefer their
legs and arms on which they imprint parallel lines of dots
either longitudinally or circularly. the women more frequently
than the men mark themselves in this manner.

The favorite ornament of both sexes are the common coarse
blue and white beads which the men wear tightly wound
aro[u]nd their wrists and ankles many times untill they obtain
the width of three or more inches. they also wear them in
large rolls loosly arond the neck, or pendulous from the
cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purforated
for the purpose. the women wear them in a similar
manner except in the nose which they never purforate. they
are also fond of a species of wampum which is furnished them
by a trader whom they call Swipton. it seems to be the
native form of the shell without any preperation. this shell is
of a conic form somewhat curved, about the size of a raven's
quill at the base, and tapering to a point which is sufficiently
large to permit to hollow through which a small thred passes;
it is from one to 1 1/2 Inches in length, white, smooth, hard
and thin.[4] these are woarn in the same manner in which the
beads are; and furnish the men with their favorite ornament
for the nose. one of these shells is passed horizontally through
the cartilage of the nose and serves frequently as a kind of
ring to prevent the string which suspends other ornaments at
the same part from chafing and freting the flesh. the men
sometimes wear collars of bears claws, and the women and
children the tusks of the Elk variously arranged on their necks
arms &c. both males and females wear braslets on their
wrists of copper brass or Iron in various forms. I think the
most disgusting sight I have ever beheld is these dirty naked
wenches. The men of these nations partake of much more of
the domestic drudgery than I had at first supposed. they
collect and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, assist in cleansing
and preparing the fish, and always cook for the strangers
who visit them. they also build their houses, construct their
canoes, and make all their wooden utensils. the peculiar provence
of the woman seems to be to collect roots and manufacture
various articles which are prepared of rushes, flags, cedar
bark, bear grass or waytape. the management of the canoe
for various purposes seems to be a duty common to both
sexes, as also many other occupations which with most Indian

nations devolves exclusively on the woman. their feasts of
which they are very fond are always prepared and served by
the men.

Comowool and the two Cathlahmahs left us this evening.
it continued to rain so constantly today that Sergt. Pryor could
not pitch his canoes.

[Clark:]

Wednesday March 19th 1806 Inds. Descd.

It continued to rain and hail in such a manner that nothing
could be done to the canoes. a party were sent out early after
the Elk which was killed last evening, with which they returned
in the course of a fiew hours, we gave Commorwool alias
Cania, a certificate of his good conduct and the friendly intercourse
which he has maintained with us dureing our residence
at this place: we also gave him a list of our names &c. The
Kilamox, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs, Waukiacum and Chiltz
I.[ndians] resemble each other as well in their persons and
Dress as in their habits and manners. their complexion is not
remarkable, being the usial copper brown of the tribes of North
America. they are low in statue reather diminutive, and illy
shaped, possessing thick broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked
legs, wide mouths, thick lips, noses stuck out and reather wide
at the base, with black eyes and black coarse hair. I have observed
some high acqualine noses among them but they are
extreemly reare. the most remarkable trate in their physiognamy
is the peculiar flatness and width of the forehead which
they artificially obtain by compressing the head between two
boards while in a state of infancy, and from which it never
afterwards perfectly recovers. This is a custom among all the
nations, we have met with West of the Rocky Mountains. I
have observed the head of maney infants after this singular
bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 11 or 12
months, that were not more than two inches thick about the
upper part of the forehead and reather thiner still higher.
from the top of the head to the extremity of the nose is one
streight line. this is done in order to give a greater width to
the forehead, which they much admire. This process seams

to be continued longer with their female than their male children,
and neither appear to suffer any pain from the opperation.
it is from this peculiar form of the head that the nations
East of the Rocky Mountains, call all the nations on this side,
except Aliahtans, So-so-ne, or Snake Indians by the General
name of Flat Heads. I think myself that the provalence of
this custom is a strong proof of those nations haveing originally
proceeded from the same stock. The Nations of this
neighbourhood or those rec[a]pitulated above, ware their hair
loosly flowing on their back and sholders; both men and
women divide it on the center of the crown in front and throw
it back behind the ear on each side. they are fond of combs
and use them when they can obtain them; and even without
the aid of combs keep their [hair] in better order, than maney
nations who are in other respects much more civilized than
themselves.

The large or apparently sweled legs particularly observable
in the women are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord
tight around the leg above the ancle bone. their method of
squating or resting themselves on their hams which they seam
from habit to prefer to sitting, no doubt contributes much to
this deformity of the legs by preventing free circulation of the
blood. This is also the custom of the nations above.

The dress of the men like those above on the Columbia
river consists of a small robe, which reaches about as low as
the middle of the thye and is attatched with a string across the
breast and is at pleasure turned from side to side as they may
have an occasion to disincumber the right or left arm from
the robe entirely, or when they have occasion for both hands,
the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corner loosly hanging
over their arms. they sometimes wear a hat which have
already been discribed (see 29th Jany.) Their robes are made
most commonly of the skins of a small animal which I have
supposed was the brown Mungo tho' they have also a number
of the skins of the tiger cat, some of those of the Elk which
are used principally on their war excursions, others of the skins
of Deer, panthor, Bear, and the Speckled Loon, and blankets
wove with the fingers of the wool of the native sheep. and

some of those on the sea coast have robes of Beaver and the
sea otter. a mat is sometimes tempera[ri]ly thrown over the
sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other article
of cloathing whatever neither winter nor summer, and every
part except the sholders and back is exposed to view. they
are very fond of the dress of the whites, which they ware in
a similar manner when they can obtain them, except the shoe
or mockerson which I have never seen worn by any of them.
They call us pâh-shish-e-ooks or cloath men. The dress of the
women consists of a roab, tissue, and sometimes when the
weather is uncommonly cold, a vest. their robe is much
smaller than that of the men, never reaching lower than the
waist nor extending in front sufficiently far to cover the body.
it is like that of the men confined across the breast with a
string and hangs loosely over the sholders and back. the
most esteemed and valuable of those robes are made of strips
of the skin of the sea otter net together with the bark of the
white cedar or silk grass, these fish [strips] are first twisted and
laid parallel with each other a little distance asunder, and then
net or wove together in such a manner that the fur appears
equally on both sides, and united between the strands, it
makes a worm and soft covering. other robes are formed in
a similar manner of the skins of the rackoon, beaver &c. at
other times the skins is dressed in the hair and worn without
any further preparation. in this way one beaver skin or two
of the rackoon or one of the tiger cat forms a vest and covers
the body from the armpits to the waist, and is confined behind,
and destitute of straps over the sholder to keep it up.
when this vest is worn the breast of the woman in consealed,
but without it which is almost always the case, they are exposed,
and from the habit of remaining loose and unsuspended
grow to great length particularly in aged women, on many of
whom I have seen the bubby reach as low as the waist. The
petticoat or tissue which occupies the waiste has been already
described (see 7th. Novr. 1805) formd. of the Bark of white cedar,
silk grass, flags & rushes. The women as well as the men
sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat worn over
the sholders. They also cover their heads from the rain sometimes
with a common water cup or basket made of cedar bark
and bear grass.

Those people sometimes mark themselves by punctureing
and introducing a colouring matter. Such of them as do mark
themselves in this manner prefur the legs and arms on which
they imprint parallel lines of dots either longitudinally or circularly,
the women more frequently than the men mark themselves
in this manner. The favorite orniments of both sexes
are the common coarse blue and white beads as before discribed
of the Chinnooks. those beads the men wear tightly
wound around their wrists and ankles maney times untill they
obtain the width of three or four inches. they also wear them
in large rolls loosly around the neck, or pendulous from the
cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purforated
in different places round the extremities for the purpose. the
women wear them in a similar manner except in the nose which
they never purforate. they are also fond of a species of wompum,
which is furnished by a trader whome they call Swipton.
it seams to be the nativ form of the shell without any preparation.
this shell is of a conic form somewhat curved about the
size of a ravens quill at the base, and tapering to a point which
is sufficiently large to permit a hollow through which a small
thread passes; it is from 1 to 1 1/2 inches in length, white,
smooth, hard and thin these are worn in the same manner
in which the beeds are; and furnish the men with their favorite
orniment for the nose, one of these shells is passed horizontally
through [the] cartilage of the nose and serves frequently
as a kind of ring which prevents the string which suspends
other orniments at the same part from chafing and freting the
flesh. The men sometimes wear collars of Bears Claws, and
the women and children the tusks of the Elk variously arranged
on their necks arms &c. both male and female wear bracelets
on their wrists of copper, Brass or Iron in various forms. The
women sometimes wash their faces & hands but seldom. I
think the most disgusting sight I have ever beheld is those
dirty naked wenches.

The men of those nations partake of much more of the
domestic drudgery than I had at first supposed, they collect

and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, cook for the strangers
who visit them, and assist in cleaning and prepareing the fish.
they also build their houses, construct their canoes, and make
all their wooden utensils. the peculiar province of the woman
seams to be to collect roots and manufacture various articles
which are prepared of rushes, flags, cedar bark, bear grass or
way tape, also dress and manufacture the Hats & robes for
common use. the management of the canoe for various purposes
seams to be a duty common to both sexes, as are many
other occupations which with most Indian nations devolve exclusively
on the womin. their feasts of which they are very
fond are always prepared and served by the men.

it continued to rain so constantly dureing the day that Sergt.
Pryor could not Pay his canoes. The Clatsop chief Commo-wool
and the two Cath-lah-mahs left us this evening and returned
to their village.

[Lewis:]

Thursday March 20th. 1806.

It continued to rain and blow so violently today that nothing
could be done towards forwarding our departure. we intended
to have Dispatched Drewyer and the two Fieldses to hunt
near the bay on this side of the Cathlahmahs untill we jounded
[joined] them from hence, but the rain rendered our departure
so uncertain that we declined this measure for the present.
nothing remarkable happened during the day. we have yet
several days provision on hand, which we hope will be sufficient
to subsist us during the time we are compelled by the
weather to remain at this place.

Altho' we have not fared sumptuously this winter and spring
at Fort Clatsop, we have lived quite as comfortably as we had
any reason to expect we should; and have accomplished every
object which induced our remaining at this place except that
of meeting with the traders who visit the entrance of this river.
our salt will be very sufficient to last us to the Missouri where
we have a stock in store. it would have been very fortunate for
us had some of those traders arrived previous to our departure
from hence, as we should then have had it in our power to

obtain an addition to our stock of merchandize which would
have made our homeward bound journey much more comfortable.[5]
many of our men are still complaining of being unwell;
Willard and Bratton remain weak, principally I beleive for the
want of proper food. I expect when we get under way we
shall be much more healthy. it has always had that effect on
us heretofore. The guns of Drewyer and Sergt. Pryor were
both out of order. the first was repared with a new lock, the
old one having become unfit for uce; the second had the cock
screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which had
been prepared for the lock at Harpers ferry where she was
manufactured.[6] but for the precaution taken in bringing on
those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the ingenuity
of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment
[have] been untirely unfit for use; but fortunately for us
I have it in my power here to record that they are all in
good order.[7]

[Clark:]

Thursday March 20th.. 1806

It continued to rain and blow so violently to day that
nothing could be done towards fowarding our departure. we
intended to have dispatched Drewyer & the 2 Field'es to hunt
above Point William untill we joined them from here but the
rain renders our departure so uncertain that we decline this
measure for the present. nothing remarkable happened dureing
the day. we have yet several days provisions on hand,
which we hope will be sufficient to serve us dureing the time
we are compell'd by the weather to remain at this place.

Altho' we have not fared sumptuously this winter & spring
at Fort Clatsop, we have lived quit[e] as comfortably as we
had any reason to expect we should; and have accomplished

every object which induced our remaining at this place except
that of meeting with the traders who visit the enterance of
this river. our Salt will be very sufficient to last us to
the Missouri where we have a stock in store. it would have been
very fortunate for us had some of those traders arrived previous
to our departure from hence; as we should then have
had it in our power to obtain an addition to our sock of
Merchandize, which would have made our homeward bound
journey much more comfortable.

Maney of our men are still complaining of being unwell;
Bratten and Willard remain weak principally I believe for the
want of proper food. I expect when we get under way that
we shall be much more healthy. it has always had that effect
on us heretofore.

The Guns of Sergt. Pryor & Drewyer were both out of
order. the first had a cock screw broken which was replaced
by a duplicate which had been prepared for the Locks at
Harpers Ferry; the second repared with a new Lock, the old
one becoming unfit for use. but for the precaution taken in
bringing on those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition
to the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at
this moment [have] been entirely unfit for use; but fortunate
for us I have it in my power here to record that they are in
good order, and complete in every respect.

[Lewis:]

Friday March 21st. 1806.

As we could not set out we thought it best to send out
some hunters and accordingly dispatched Sheilds and Collins
on this side the Netul for that purpose with orders to return
in the evening or sooner if they were successfull.[8] The hunters
returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we have not
now more than one day's provision on hand. we directed
Drewyer and the Fieldses to set out tomorrow morning early,
and indevour to provide us some provision on the bay beyond

point William, we were visited to day by some Clatsop indians
who left us in the evening. our sick men Willard and
bratton do not seem to recover; the former was taken with a
violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratton is now so
much reduced that I am somewhat uneasy with rispect to his
recovery; the pain of which he complains most seems to be
seated in the small of his back and remains obstinate. I beleive
that it is the rheumatism with which they are both
afflicted.

[Clark:]

Friday March 21st. 1806

As we could not set out we thought it best to send out
some hunters and accordingly dispatched Shields and Collins
on this side of the Netul for that purpose with orders to return
in the evening or sooner if they were successfull. they returned
late in the evening unsuccessfull. we have not now
more than two days provisions on hand. we derected Drewyer
and the two Fieldses to set out tomorrow morning early, and
indevour to provide us some provision on the Bay beyond
point William. we were visited to day by some Clatsops who
left us in the evening. our sick men Willard and Bratten do
not seem to recover; the former was taken with a violent pain
in his leg and thye last night. Bratten is now so much reduced
that I am somewhat uneasy with respect to his recovery;
the pain of which he complains most seems to be settled in
the small of his back and remains obstinate. I believe that
it is the rheumatism with which they are both affected.

[Lewis:]

Saturday March 22ed 1806.

Drewyer and the Feildses departed this morning agreably
to the order of the last evening. we sent out seven hunters
this morning in different directions on this side the Netul.
about 10 A.M. we were visited by 4 Clatsops and a killamucks;
they brought some dried Anchoveis and a dog for
sale which we purchased. the air is perefectly temperate, but
it continues to rain in such a manner that there is no possibility
of geting our canoes completed. at 12 OCk. we were

visited by Comowooll and 3 of the Clatsops. to this Chief we
left our houses and fu[r]niture. he has been much more kind
an[d] hospitable to us than any other indian in this neighbourhood.[9]
the Indians departed in the evening. the hunters all
returned except Colter, unsuccessfull. we determined to set
out tomorrow at all events, and to stop the canoes temperarily
with Mud and halt the first fair day and pay them. the leafing
of the hucklebury riminds us of spring.

[Clark:]

Saturday March 22nd. 1806

Drewyer and the two Fieldses departed this morning agreably
to the order of last evening. we sent out six hunters this
morning in different directions on both sides of the Netul.
about 10 A.M. we were visited by Que-ne-o alias Commorwool
8 Clatsops and a Kil-a-mox; they brought some dried Anchovies,
a common otter skin and a Dog for sale all of which
we purchased. the Dog we purchased for our sick men, the
fish for to add to our small stock of provision's, and the skin
to cover my papers. those Indians left us in the evening,
the air is perfectly temperate, but it continues to rain in such
a manner that there is no possibility of getting our canoes
completed in order to set out on our homeward journey.
The Clatsops inform us that several of their nation has the
sore throat, one of which has latterly died with this disorder.
the Hunters sent out to day all returned except Colter
uns[ucc]essfull.

[Lewis:]

Sunday March 23rd 1806.

Half after 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed one Elk,
but so distant that we could not send for the meat and get
arround Point William today, we therefore prefered seting out

and depending on Drewyer and the hunters we have sent forward
for meat. the wind is pretty high but it seems to be the
common opinion that we can pass point William. we accordingly
distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be
launched and loaded for our departure. at 1 P.M. we bid a
final adieu to Fort Clatsop. we had not proceeded more than
a mile before we met Delashelwilt and a party of 20 Chinnooks
men and women. this Cheif lea[r]ning that we were in want
of a canoe some days past, had brought us one for sale, but
being already supplyed, we did not purchase it. I obtained
one Sea Otter skin from this party. at a 1/4 before three we had
passed Meriwethers bay and commenced coasting the difficult
shore; at 1/2 after five we doubled point William, and at 6.
arrived in the mouth of a small creek[10] where we found our
hunters. they had killed 2 Elk, at the distance of a mile & 1/2.
it was too late to send after it this evening. we therefore encamped
on the Stard. side of the Creek. the wind was not very
hard.

[Clark:]

Sunday 23rd. March 1806

This morning proved so raney and uncertain that we were
undetermined for some time whether we had best set out &
risque the [tide] which appeared to be riseing or not. Jo
Colter returned haveing killed an Elk about 3 miles towards
Point Adams, the rained seased and it became fair about
Meridian, at which time we loaded our canoes & at 1 P. M.
left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey, at this
place we had wintered and remained from the 7th. of Decr. 1805
to this day and have lived as well as we had any right to
expect, and we can say that we were never one day without
3 meals of some kind a day either pore Elk meat or roots,
notwithstanding the repeated fall of rain which has fallen
almost constantly since we passed the long narrows on the
[blank space in MS.] of Novr. last indeed w[e] have had only
[blank space in MS.] days fair weather since that time. Soon
after we had set out from Fort Clatsop we were met by Delashelwilt

& 8 men of the Chinnook and Delashelwilts wife the
old boud and his six Girls, they had, a canoe, a sea otter
skin, dried fish and hats for sale, we purchased a sea otter
skin, and proceeded on, thro' Meriwethers Bay, there was a
stiff breese from the S.W. which raised considerable swells
around Meriwethers point which was as much as our canoes
could ride. above point William we came too at the camp
of Drewyer & the 2 Field's. they had killed 2 Elk which
was about 1 1/2 miles distant. here we encampd. for the night
having made 16 miles.

[Lewis:]

Monday March 24th. 1806.

This morning we sent out a party of 15 at light, for the
meat, and concluded to take breakfast before we set out. they
soon returned. we breakfasted and Set out at 1/2 after 9 A.M.
Saw a white woodpecker with a red head of the small kind
common to the United States; this bird has but lately returned
they do not remain during the winter. the country
thick and heavily timbered. we saw very few waterfowl today,
not a single swan, white brant nor a small goose is to be seen.
a few Cormorant, duckinmallard, butterbox, and common
large geese were only to be found. the tide being out this
morning we found some difficulty in passing through the bay
below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the river is very
shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the shore tho' there is
a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we
arrived at the Cathlahmah village[11] where we halted and purchased
some wappetoe, a dog for the sick, and a hat for one of
the men. on one of the Seal Islands opposite to the village
of these people they have scaffolded their dead in canoes
elivating them above tidewater mark. these people are very
fond of sculpture in wood of which they exhibit a variety of
specemines about their houses. the broad peices supporting
the center of the roof and those through which the doors are
cut, seem to be the peices on which they most display their
taist. I saw some of these which represented human figures

setting and supporting the burthen on their sholders.[12] at
half after 3 P.M. we set out and continued our rout among
the seal Islands; not paying much attention we mistook our
rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook us and put
us in the wright channel this Cathlahmah claimed the small
canoe which we had taken from the Clatsops. however he
consented very willingly to take an Elk's skin for it which I
directed should be given him and he immediately returned.
we continued our rout along the South side of the river and
encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower
Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho' wood was
abundant after dark two Chinnook men came to us in a
small canoe; they remained with us all night, came 15 miles
to day.

[Clark:]

Monday 24th.. of March 1806

Sent out 15 men verry early this morning for the flesh of
the two Elk killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday, they
returned at 8 oclock, after taking a slight brackfast we set
out at half past 9 a.m. and proceeded to the Cathlahmah
Village at 1 P. M. and remained untill 1/4 after 3 p. m. at
this village we purchased a fiew wappato and a Dog for our
sick men—Willard and Bratten who are yet in a weak state.
at this village I saw two very large elegant canoes inlaid with
shells. those shells I took to be teeth at first view, and the
nativs informed several of the men that they [were] the teeth
of their enemies which they had killed in war. in examining
of them closely haveing taken out several pices, we found that
[they] were sea shells which yet contained a part of the iner
[blank space in MS.] they also deckerate their smaller wooden
vessles with those shells which have much the appearance of
human teeth. Capt Cook may have mistaken those shells
verry well for human teeth without a close examination.[13]

The village of these people is the dirtiest and stinkingest place
I ever saw in any shape whatever, and the inhabitants partake
of the carrestick [characteristic] of the village. we proceeded
on through some difficult and narrow channel between the
Seal Islands, and the South side to an old village on the South
Side opposit to the lower Warkiacom village, and Encamped.
to this old villg a very considerable deposit of the dead at a
short distance below in the usial and customary way of the
nativs of this coast in canoes raised from the ground as before
described.[14] Soon after we made our camp 2 Indians visited
us from the opposit side, one of them spoke several words
of English and repeated the names of the traders, and many
of the salors. made 16 miles.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday March 25th 1806.

The morning being disagreeably cold we remained and took
breakfast. at 7 A.M. we set out and continued our rout along
the South Coast of the river against the wind and a strong
current, our progress was of course but slow. at noon we
halted and dined. here some Clatsops came to us in a canoe
loaded with dryed anchovies, which they call Ol-then′, Wappetoe
and Sturgeon. they informed us that they had been up
on a trading voyage to the Skillutes. I observe that the green
bryer which I have previously mentioned as being common on
this river below tide-water retains it's leaves all winter. the
red willow and seven bark begin to put fourth their leaves.
after dinner we passed the river to a large Island[15] and continued
our rout allong the side of the same about a mile when
we arrived at a Cathlahmah fishing cam[p] of one lodge; here
we found 3 men 2 women and a couple of boys, who from
appearances had remained here some time for the purpose of
taking sturgeon, which they do by trolling. they had ten or
douzen very fine sturgeon which had not been long taken. we
offered to purchase some of their fish but they asked us such

an extravegant price that we declined purchase. one of the
men purchased a Sea Otter skin at this lodge, for which he
gave a dressed Elkskin and an handkerchief. near this lodge
we met some Cathlahmahs who had been up the river on a
fishing excurtion. they had a good stock of fish on board, but
did not seem disposed to sell them. we remained at this place
about half an hour and then continued our rout up the Island
to it's head and passed to the south side. the wind in the
evening was very hard. it was with some difficulty that we
could find a spot proper for an encampment, the shore being
a swamp for several miles back; at length late in the evening
opposite to the place we had encamped on the 6th. of November
last; we found the entrance of a small creek which afforded us
a safe harbour from the wind, and encamped.[16] the ground
was low and moist tho' we obtained a tolerable encampment.
here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in
number who had established a temperary residence for the
purpose of fishing and taking seal. they had taken a fine
parcel of sturgeon and some seal. they gave us some of the
fleese [flesh] of the seal which I found a great improvement to
the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the Feildses who
had been seperated from us since morning; they had passed
on the North side of the large Island which was much nearer.
the bottom lands are covered with cottonwood, the growth with
a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the underbrush
red willow, broad leafed willow, sevenbark, goosburry,
green bryer & the large leafed thorn; the latter is now in
bloom; the natives inform us that it bears a freut about an
inch in diameter which is good to eat.[17]

[Clark:]

Tuesday 25th of March 1806

Last night and this morning are cool wind hard a head and
tide going out, after an early brackfast we proceeded on
about 4 miles and came too on the South side to warm and
dry our selves a little. soon after we had landed two Indians
came from a Warkiacum village on the opposit side with 2
dogs and a fiew wappato to sell neither of which we bought.
Som Clatsops passed down in a canoe loaded with fish and
wappato. as the wind was hard a head and tide against us we
concluded to delay untill the return of the tide which we expected
at 1 oClock, at which hour we set out met two canoes
of Clatsops loaded with dried anchovies and sturgion which
they had taken and purchased above. we crossed over to an
Island on which was a Cathlahmah fishing camp of one Lodge;
here we found 3 man two woman and a couple of boys who
must have [been here] for some time for the purpose of taking
sturgeon which they do by trolling. they had 10 or 12 very
fine sturgeon which had not been long taken; we wished to
purchase some of their fish but they asked such extravegent
prices that we declined purchaseing. one of our Party purchased
a sea otter skin at this Lodge, for which he gave a
dressed Elk skin & a Handkerchief. we remained at this
place about half an hour and then continued our rout. the
winds in the evening was verry hard, it was with some dificuelty
that we could find a Spot proper for an encampment, the shore
being a swamp for several miles back; at length late in the
evening opposit to the place we had encamped on the 6th.. of
Novr. last; we found the enterance of a small creek which
offered us a safe harbour from the winds and Encamped. the
Ground was low and moist tho' we obtained a tolerable encampment.
here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about
10 in number, who had established a temporary residence for
the purpose of fishing and takeing seal. they had taken about
12 sturgeon and some seal. they gave us some of the flesh of
the seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk.
here we found Drewyer and the 2 Fields' who had been seperated
from us since morning. they had passed on the North
side of the large Island which was much nearest. the bottom

lands are covered with a species of Asepin, the Growth with a
broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the under
brush red willow, broad leafed willow, seven bark, Goose berry,
Green bryor, and the larged leaf thorn; the latter is now in
blume, the nativs inform us that it bears a fruit about an Inch
in diamieter which is good to eate. the red willow and 7 bark
begin to put forth their leaves. The green bryor which I have
before mentioned retains leaves all winter. made 15 miles.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday March 26th. 1806.

The wind blew so hard this morning that we delayed untill
8 A.M. we gave a medal of small size to a man by the name
of Wal-lal'-le, a principal man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared
very thankfull for the honour conferred on him and
presented us a large sturgeon. we continued our rout up the
river to an old village on the Stard. side where we halted for
dinner. we met on the way the principal Cheif of the Cathlahmahs,
Sâh-hâh-wôh-cap, who had been up the river on
a trading voyage. he gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we
also purchased some of the latter. soon after we halted for
dinner the two Wackiacums who have been pursuing us since
yesterday morning with two dogs for sale, arrived. they wish
tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed
to give as our stock is now reduced to a very few carrots.
our men who have been accustomed to the use of this article
(Tobaco) and to whom we are now obliged to deny the uce
of this article appear to suffer much for the want of it. they
substitute the bark of the wild crab which they chew; it is
very bitter, and they assure me they find it a good substitute
for tobacco. the smokers substitute the inner bark of the red
willow and the sacacommis. here our hunters joined us having
killed three Eagles and a large goose. I had now an oportunity
of comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found
that the greay Eagle was about 1/4 larger, it's legs and feet
were dark while those of the bald Eagle wer[e] of a fine
orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish
brown while that of the other is of a bright silvery colour

with a slight admixture of yellow. after dinner we proceeded
on and passed an Elegant and extensive bottom on the South
side and an island near it's upper point which we call Fanny's
Island and bottom. the greater part of the bottom is a high
dry prarie. near the river towards the upper point we saw a
fine grove of whiteoak trees; we saw some deer and Elk at
a distance in the prarie, but did not delay for the purpose of
hunting them. we continued our rout after dinner untill late
in the evening and encamped on the next island above fanny's
Island.[18] we found it difficult to obtain as much wood as
answered our purposes. the hunters who had proceeded on
before us after dinner did not join us this evening. Some
indians visited us after dark, but did not remain long.

agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we came
16 m. 23rd. 16 m. the 24th., 15. the 25th., and 18 m. the 26th., tho'
I now think that our estimate in decending the river was too
short.

[Clark:]

Wednesday March 26th 1806

The wind blew so hard untill 8 A. M. that we [were] detained,
we gave a Medal to a man by the name of Wal-lal-le
a principal man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared very
thankfull for the honor confured on him and presented us
with a large sturgion. we continued our rout up the river to
an old village on the south side where we halted for dinner.
we met on the way the principal Chief of the Cathlahmahs,
Sâh-hâh-wâh-cop, who had been up the river on a trading
voyage, he gave us some wappato and fish, we also purchased
some wappato soon after halted for dinner at an old village
on the south point opposit the lower pt. of Fannys Island.

The two Warkiacums who had been pursueing us since yesterday
morning with two dogs for sale, arrived. they wish
Tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed
to give, as our stock is now reduced to 3 carrots. our men
who have been accustomed to the use of this article, and to
whome we are now obliged to deny the use of this article
appear to suffer much for the want of it. they substitute the
bark of the wild crab which they chew; it is very bitter and
they assure me they find it a good substitute for tobacco. the
smokers substitute the iner bark of the redwillow and the
saccommis. here our hunters joined us haveing killed 3
Eagles and a large wild goose. I had now an oppertunity of
comparing the bald with the Grey Eagle; I found the grey
Eagle about 1/4 largest, its legs and feet were dark which those
of the bald eagle were of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the
eye is also of a dark yellowish brown, while that of the Grey
is of a light silvery colour with a slight admixture of yellow.
after dinner I walked on shore through an eligant bottom on
the south side opposit to Fannys Island. This bottom we
also call fannys bottom it is extensive and an open leavel plain
except near the river bank which is high dry rich w[hite] oak
land. I saw some deer & Elk at a distance in the Prarie.
we continued untill late in the evening and encamped on a
small Island near the Middle of the river haveing made 18
miles. 2 Indians visited us this evening.

[Lewis:]

Thursday March 27th. 1806.

We set out early this morning and were shortly after joined
by some of the Skillutes who came along side in a small canoe
for the purpose of trading roots and fish, at 10 A.M. we
arrived at two houses of this nation on the Stard side where we
halted for breakfast. here we overtook our hunters, they had
killed nothing. the natives appeared extreemly hospitable,
gave us dryed Anchovies, Sturgeon, wappetoe, quamash, and
a speceis of small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in length
and as thick as a man's finger; these are eaten raw, are crisp,
milkey, and agreeably flavored, most of the party were served

by the natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted on
our remaining all day with them and hunting the Elk and
deer which they informed us were very abundant in their
neighbourhood. but as the weather would not permit us to
dry our canoes in order to pitch them we declined their friendly
invitation, and resumed our voyage at 12 OCk. the principal
village of these Skillutes reside on the lower side of the
Cowe-lis'-kee river a few miles from it's entrance into the
Columbia. these people are said to be numerous. in their
dress, habits, manners and language they differ but little from
the Clatsops Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war
with Chinnooks but peace is said now to be restored between
them, but their intercourse is not yet resumed. no Chinnooks
come above the marshey islands nor do the Skillutes visit the
mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops, Cathlahmahs and
Wackkiacums are the carriers between these nations being in
alliance with both. The Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, is
deep and from indian Information navigable a very considerable
distance for canoes. it discharges itself into the Columbia
about three miles above a remarkable high rocky nole[19] which
is situated on the N. side of the river by which it is washed on
the South side and is seperated from the No[r]thern hills of
the river by a wide bottom of several miles to which it is
united. I suspect that this river waters the country lying
West of the range of mountains which pass the Columbia
between the great falls and rapids, and north of the same
nearly to the low country which commences on the N.W.
coast about Latitude [blank space in MS.] North. above the
Skillutes on this river another nation by the name of the
Hul-loo-et-tell reside who are said also to be numerous. at
the distance of 2 m. above the village at which we breakfasted we
passed the entrance of this river; we saw several fishing camps
of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were attended
all the evening by parties of the natives in their canoes who
visited us for the purpose of trading their fish and roots; we
purchased as many as we wished on very moderate terms; they
seemed perfectly satisfyed with the exchange and behaved
themselves in a very orderly manner. late in the evening we
passed our camp of the 5th. of November and encamped about
4 1/2 [miles] above at the commencement of the bottom land on
stard. below Deer Island. we had scarcely landed before we
were visited by a large canoe with eight men; from them we
obtained a dryed fruit which resembled the raspburry and which
I be[l]eive to be the fruit of the large leafed thorn frequently
mentioned. it is reather ascid tho' pleasently flavored. I
preserved a specemine of this fruit I fear that it has been
baked in the process of drying and if so the seed will not
vegitate. saw the Cottonwood, sweet willow,[20] oak, ash and the
broad leafed ash, the growth which resembles the beach &c.
these form the growth of the bottom lands while the hills are
covered almost exclusively with the various speceis of fir heretofore
discribed. the black Alder appears as well on some
parts of the hills as the bottoms. before we set out from the
Skillute village we sent on Gibson's canoe and Drewyer's
with orders to proceed as fast as they could to Deer island
and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at
that place to repair our canoes if possible. the indians who
visited us this evening remained but a short time, they passed
the river to the oposite side and encamped. the night as well
as the day proved cold wet and excessively disagreeable, we
came 20 miles today.

[Clark:]

Thursday March 27th. 1806

A rainey disagreeable night rained the greater part of the
night. we set out this morning verry early and proceeded on
to two houses of the Skil-lute Indians on the South Side here
we found our hunters who had Seperated from us last evening.
the wind rose and the rain became very hard soon after we
landed here we were very friendly receved by the natives who
gave all our party as much fish as they could eate, they also

gave us wappato and pashaquaw roots to eate prepared in their
own way. also a species of small white tuberous roots about
2 inches in length and as thick as a mans finger, these are
eaten raw, or crips [crisp], milkey and agreeably flavoured;
the nativs insisted on our remaining all day with them and
hunt the Elk and deer which they informed us was very
abundant in this neighbourhood; but as the weather would
not permit our drying our canoes in order to pitch them, we
declined their friendly invertation, and resumed our voyage at
12 oClock. The principal village of the Skil-lutes is situated
on the lower side of the Cow-e-lis-kee river a fiew miles from
it's enterance into the Columbia. those people are said to be
noumerous, in their dress, habits, manners and Language they
differ but little from the Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. they have
latterly been at war with the Chinnooks, but peace is said to be
now restored between them, but their intercourse is not yet
restored. no Chinnook come above the Warkiacums, nor do
the Skillutes visit the mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops,
Cathlahmahs & Warkiacoms are the carriers between those
nations being in alliance with both. The Coweliskee river is
150 yards wide, is deep and from Indian information navigable
a very considerable distance for canoes. it discharges itself
into the Columbia about 3 miles above a remarkable knob
which is high and rocky and situated on the North side of the
Columbia, and seperated from the Northern hills of the river
by a wide bottom of several miles, to which it [is] united. I
suspect that this river waters the country lying west of a range
of Mountains which passes the Columbia between the Great
falls and rapids, and North of the same nearly to the low
country which commences on the N W. Coast about Latitude
4° 'North.[21] above the Skillutes on this river another
nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside who are said
also to be numerous. at the distance of 2 miles above the
village at which we brackfast we passed the enterance of this
river; we saw several fishing camps of the Skillutes on both
sides of the Columbia, and also on both sides of this river.
we were attended all the evening by parties of the nativs in
their canoes who visited us for the purpose of tradeing their
fish and roots; we purchased as maney as we wished on very
moderate terms; they seamed perfectly satisfied with the exchange
and behaved themselves in a very orderly manner.
late in the evening we passed the place we camped the 5th. of
Novr. and Encamped about 4 miles above at the commencement
of the Columbian Vally on the Stard. Side below Deer Island.
we had scercely landed before we were visited by a large canoe
with 8 men; from them we obtained a dried fruit which resembled
the raspberry and which I believe is the fruit of the
large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather ascide
tho' pleasantly flavored. Saw Cottonwood, sweet willow,
w[hite] oake, ash and the broad leafed ash the Growth which
resembles the bark &c. these form the groth of the bottom
lands, whilst the Hills are almost exclusively covered with the
various species of fir heretofore discribed. the black alder
appears on maney parts of the hills sides as on the bottoms.
before we set out from the 2 houses where we brackfast we
sent on two canoes with the best hunters, with orders to proceed
as fast as they could to Deer island and there to hunt and
wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that place and repare 2 of
our canoes if possible. the Indians that visited us this evening
remained but a short time, they passed over to an Island and
encamped. the night as well as the day proved cold wet and
excessively disagreeable. we came 20 miles in the course of
this day.

[Lewis:]

Friday March 28th. 1806

This morning we set out very early and at 9 A.M. arrived
at the old Indian village on Lard. side of Deer Island where we
found our hunters had halted and left one man with the two
canoes at their camp; they had arrived last evening at this
place and six of them turned out to hunt very early this morning;
by 10 A.M. they all returned to camp having killed
seven deer. these were all of the common fallow deer with
the long tail. I measured the tail of one of these bucks which

was upwards of 17 Inches long; they are very poor, tho' they
are better than the black tailed fallow deer of the coast. these
are two very distinct speceis of deer.[22] the Indians call this
large Island E-lal-lar or deer island which is a very appropriate
name. the hunters informed us that they had seen upwards
of a hundred deer this morning on this island. the interior
part of the island is praries and ponds, with a heavy growth of
Cottonwood ash and willow near the river. we have seen
more waterfowl on this island than we have previously seen
since we left Fort Clatsop, consisting of geese, ducks, large
swan, and Sandhill crains. I saw a few of the Canvis-back
duck. the duckinmallard are the most abundant. one of
the hunters killed a duck which appeared to be the male, it
was a size less than the duckinmallard.[23] the head neck as low
as the croop, the back tail and covert of the wings were of a
fine black with a small addmixture of perple about the head
and neck, the belley & breast were white; some long feathers
which lie underneath the wings and cover the thye were of a
pale dove colour with fine black specks; the large feathers of
the wings are of a dove colour. the legs are dark, the feet are
composed of 4 toes each of which there are three in front connected
by a web, the 4th. is short flat and placed high on the
heel behind the leg. the tail is composed of 14 short pointed
feathers. the beak of this duck is remarkably wide, and is
2 inches in length, the upper chap exceeds the under one in
both length and width, insomuch that when the beak is closed
the under is entirely concealed by the upper chap. the tongue,
indenture of the margin of the chaps &c. are like those of the
mallard. the nostrils are large longitudinal and connected. a
narrow strip of white garnishes the upper part or base of the
upper chap—this is succeeded by a pale skye blue colour
which occupys about one inch of the chap, is again succeeded
by a transverse stripe of white and the extremity is of a pure
black. the eye is moderately large the puple black and iris of a
fine orrange yellow. the feathers on the crown of the head are
longer than those on the upper part of neck and other parts
of the head; these feathers give it the appearance of being
crested. at 1/2 after ten A.M. it became fair, and we had the
canoes which wanted repairing halled out and with the assistance
of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them
sufficiently to receive the pitch which was immediately put on
them; at 3 in the evening we had them compleat and again
launched and reloaded. we should have set out, but as some
of the party whom we had permitted to hunt since we arrived
have not yet returned we determined to remain this evening
and dry our beding baggage &c. the weather being fair.
Since we landed here we were visited by a large canoe with ten
natives of the quathlahpahtle nation who are numerous and
reside about seventeen miles above us on the Lard. Side of the
Columbia, at the entrance of a small river.[24] they do not differ
much in their dress from those lower down and speak nearly
the same language, it is in fact the same with a small difference
of accent. we saw a great number of snakes on this island;
they were about the size and much the form of the common
garter snake of the Atlantic coast and like that snake are not
poisonous. they have 160 scuta on the abdomen and 71 on
the tall. the abdomen near the head, and jaws as high as the
eyes, are of a bluish white, which as it receedes from the head
becomes of a dark brown. the field of the back and sides is
black. a narrow stripe of a light yellow runs along the center
of the back, on each side of this stripe there is a range of small
transverse oblong spots of a pale brick red which gradually
diminish as they receede from the head and disappear at the
commencement of the tail. the puple of the eye is black, with
a narrow ring of white bordering it's edge; the ballance of the
iris is of a dark yellowish brown. the men who had been sent
after the deer returned and brought in the remnent which the
Vultures and Eagles had left us; these birds had devoured
4 deer in the course of a few hours. the party killed and
brought in three other deer a goose some ducks and an Eagle.
Drewyer also killed a tiger cat. Joseph Fields informed me
that the Vultures had draged a large buck which he had killed
about 30 yards, had skined it and broken the back bone. we
came five miles only today.

[Clark:]

Friday March 28th. 1806

This morning we set out verry early and at 9 A. M. arived at
an old Indian Village on the NE side of Deer Island where we
found our hunters had halted and left one man with the canoes
at their camp, they arrived last evening at this place, and six
of them turned out very early to hunt, at 10 A. M. they all
returned to camp haveing killed seven Deer, those were all
of the common fallow Deer with a long tail. I measured the
tail of one of these bucks which was upwards of 17 inches
long; they are very poor, tho' they are better than the black
tail Species of the sea coast. those are two very distinct species
of Deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar, or Deer
Island, which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed
us that they had seen upwards of a hundred Deer this
morning on this island, the interior of this Island is a
prarie and ponds, with a heavy growth of cottonwood, ash &
willow near the river. we have seen more waterfowl on this
island than we have previously seen since we left Fort Clatsop,
consisting of Geese, Ducks, large Swan & Sand Hill crains. I
saw a fiew of the canvis back Duck as I believe. at 1/2 after
10 A. M. it became fair and we had the canoes which wanted
repareing hauled out and with the assistance of fires which
we had kindled for the purpose dryed them sufficiently to receive
the pitch which was immediately put on them; at 3 in
the evening we had them compleated and lanced and reloaded.
we should have set out but some of the party whom we had
permited to hunt since we arrived heve not yet returned. we
determined to remain here this evening and dry our bedding
&c. the weather being fair. Since we landed here we were
visited by a large canoe with ten nativs of the Quathlahpohtle
nation who are numerous and reside about fourteen miles
above us on the N. E. side of the Columbia above the Enterance
of a small river which the Indians call Châh wâh-na-hi-ooks.

we saw a great number of snakes on this island; they were
about the size and much the form of the garter snake of the
U. S. the back and sides are black with a narrow stripe of
light yellow along the center of the back with small red spots
on each side they have [blank space in MS.] scuta on the
abdomen & [blank space in MS.] on the tail and are not
poisonous. The men who had been sent after the deer returned
with four only, the other 4 haveing been eaten entirely
by the Voulture except the skin. The men we [who] had
been permitted to hunt this evening killed 3 deer 4 Eagles &
a Duck, the deer are remarkably pore. Some rain in the
after part of the day. we only made 5 miles to day.

[Lewis:]

Saturday March 29th. 1806.

We set out early this morning and proceeded along the side
of Deer Island; halted at 10 A.M. near its upper point and
breakfasted. here we were joined by three men of the Clan-nah-min-na-mun[25]
nation, the upper point of this island may
be esteemed the lower side or commencement of the Columbian
valley. after breakfast we proceeded on and at the distance
of 14 miles from our encampment of the last evening we passed
a large inlet 300 yds. in width. this inlet or arm of the river
extends itself to the South 10 or 12 M. to the hills on that
side of the river and receives the waters of a small creek which
heads with Killamucks river,[26] and that of a bayau which
passes out of the Columbia about 20 miles above, the large
Island thus formed we call wappetoe island. on this inlet and
Island the following nations reside, (viz) Clân-nah-min-na-mun,
Clacks-star, Cath-lah-cum-up, Clâh-m-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah,
and Cath-lah-cam-mah-tup.[27] the two first reside
on the inlet and the others on the bayau and island. observed
a speceies of small wild onion growing among the moss on the
rocks, they resemble the shives of our gardens and grow remarkably
close together forming a perfect turf; they are as

quite agreeably flavoured as the shives. on the North side of
the columbia a little above the entrance of this inlet a considerable
river discharges itself. this stream the natives call the
Cah-wâh-na-hi-ooks.[28] it is 150 yards wide and at present discharges
a large body of water, tho' from the information of the
same people it is not navigable but a short distance in consequence
of falls and rappids. a tribe called the Hul-lu-et-tell
reside on this river above it's entr. at the distance of three
miles above the entrance of the inlet on the N. side behind
the lower point of an island we arrived at the village of the
Cath (Quath)-lah-poh-tle w[h]ich consists of 14 large wooden
houses. here we arrived at 3 P.M. the language of these
people as well as those on the inlet and Wappetoe Island
differs in some measure from the nations on the lower part of
the river. tho' many of their words are the same, and a great
many others with the difference only of accent. the form of
their houses and dress of the men, manner of living habits
customs &c. as far as we could discover are the same. their
women wear their ornaments robes and hair as those do below
tho' (Indian women on Wappato Island & in that Valey) here
their hair is more frequently braded in two tresses and hang
over each ear in front of the body. in stead of the tissue of
bark woarn by the women below, they wear a kind of leather
breech clout about the width of a common pocket handkerchief
and reather longer. the two corners of this at one of the narrow
ends are confined in front just above the hips; the other
end is then brought between the legs, compressed into a narrow
foalding bundel is drawn tight and the corners a little spread
in front and tucked at the groin over and arround the part first
confined about the waist. the small robe which dose not reach
the waist is their usual and only garment commonly woarn beside
that just mentioned. when the weather is a litt[l]e warm
this robe is thrown aside and the leather truss or breech-clout
constitutes the whole of their apparel. this is a much more
indecent article than the tissue bark, and bearly covers the
mons ven[er]is, to which it is drawn so close that the whole
shape is plainly perceived. the floors of most of their houses
are on a level with the surface of the earth tho' some of them
are sunk two or 3 feet beneath. the internal arrangement of
their houses is the same with those of the nations below. they
are also fond of sculpture. various figures are carved and
painted on the peices which support the center of the roof,
about their doors and beads. they had large quantities of
dryed Anchovies strung on small sticks by the gills and others
which had been first dryed in this manner, were now arranged
in large sheets with strings of bark and hung suspended by
poles in the roofs of their houses; they had also an abundance
of sturgeon and wappetoe; the latter they take in great quantities
from the neighbouring ponds, which are numerous and
extensive in the river bottoms and islands. the wappetoe
furnishes the principal article of traffic with these people which
they dispose of to the nations below in exchange for beads
cloth and various articles. the natives of the sea coast and
lower part of the river will dispose of their most valuable articles
to obtain this root. they have a number of large symeters
of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long[29] which hang by the heads of their
beads [beds]; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the center
tho' thin even there. all it's edges are sharp and it's greatest
width which is about 9 inches from the point is about 4 inches.
the form is thus. [ILLUSTRATION] this is a formidable
weapon. they have heavy bludgeons
of wood made in the same form nearly
which I presume they used for the same purpose before they
obtained metal. we purchased a considerable quantity of wappetoes
12 dogs, and 2 Sea otter skins of these people. they
were very hospitable and gave us anchovies and wappetoe to
eat. notwithstanding their hospitality if it deserves that appellation,
they are great begers, for we had scarcely finished our
repast on the wappetoe and Anchovies which they voluntarily
set before us before they began to beg. we gave them some
small articles as is our custom on those occasions with which
they seemed perfectly satisfyed. we gave the 1st Cheif a small
medal, which he soon transfered to his wife. after remaining
at this place 2 hours we set out and continued our rout between
this [Bachelor's] island, which we now call Cath-lah-poh-tle
after the nation, and the Lard. shore. at the distance of 2 miles
we encamped in a small prarie on the main shore, having
traveled 19 miles by estimate. the river rising fast. great
numbers of both the large and small swans, gees and ducks
seen to day. the former are very abundant in the ponds where
the wappetoe is found, they feed much on this bulb. the
female of the duck which was described yesterday is of a uniform
dark brown with some yellowish brown intermixed in
small specks on the back neck and breast. the garter snakes
are innumerable & are seen entwined arround each other in
large bundles of forty or fifty lying about in different directions
through the praries. the frogs are croaking in the swam[p]s
and mar[s]hes; their notes do not differ from those of the
Atlantic States; they are not found in the salt marshes near
the entrance of the river. heared a large hooting owl hollowing
this evening. saw several of the crested fishers and some
of the large and small black-birds.

[Clark:]

Saturday March 29th. 1806

we set out very early this morning and proceeded to the
head of deer island and took brackfast. the morning was very
cold wind sharp and keen off the range of mountains to the
East covered with snow. the river is now riseing very fast and
retards our progress very much as we are compelled to keep
out at some distance in the curent to clear the bushes, and
fallen trees and drift logs makeing out from the shore. dureing
the time we were at Brackfast a canoe with three Indians
of the Clan-nar-min-na-mon Nation came down, one of those
men was dressed in a Salors Jacket & hat & the other two had
a blanket each, those people differ but little either in their

dress manners & Language from the Clatsops & Chinnooks.
they reside on Wappato Inlet which is on the S W. side about
12 miles above our encampment of the last night and is about
2 miles from the lower point, four other tribes also reside on
the inlet and sluce which passes on the South W. side of the
Island, the first tribe from the lower point is the Clannarminamon,
on the Island, the Clackster Nation on the main
S.W. shore the next Cath-lah-cum-up, Clâh-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah
and at some distance further up is a tribe called
Cath-lah-com-mah-up Those tribes all occupie single villages.
we proceeded on to the lower point of the said island accompanied
by the 3 Indians, & were met by 2 canoes of nativs of
the quath-lah-poh-tal who informed us that the chanel to the
NE of the Island was the proper one. we prosued their
advice and crossed into the mouth of the Chah-wah-na-hi-ooks
River which is about 200 yards wide and a great portion of
water into the Columbia at this time it being high. The
indians inform us that this river is crowded with rapids after
some distance up it. Several tribes of the Hul-lu-et-tell
Nation reside on this river. at 3 oClock P.M. we arived at
the Quathlahpahtle village of 14 Houses on main Shore to
the N.E. side of a large island. those people in their habits
manners customs and language differ but little from those of
the Clatsops and others below. here we exchanged our deer
skins killed yesterday for dogs and purchased others to the
number of 12 for provisions for the party, as the deer flesh is
too poore for the men to subsist on and work as hard as is
necessary. I also purchased a sea otter robe. we purchased
wappatoe and some pashaquar roots. gave a Medal of the
small size to the principal chief, and at 5 oClock reembarked
and proceeded up on the N E of an Island to an inlet about
1 mile above the village and encamped on a butifull grassy
plac[e], where the nativs make a portage of their canoes, and
wappato roots to and from a large pond at a short distance.
in this pond the nativs inform us they collect great quantities
of p [w] appato, which the women collect by getting into the
water, sometimes to their necks holding by a small canoe and
with their feet loosen the wappato or bulb of the root from the
bottom from the Fibers, and it imedeately rises to the top of
the water, they collect & throw them into the canoe, those
deep roots are the largest and best roots. Great numbers of
the whistling swan, Gees and Ducks in the Ponds. Soon after
we landed 3 of the nativs came up with wappato to sell a part
of which we purchased. they continued but a short time. our
men are recovering fast. Willard quit[e] well & Bratten much
stronger. we made 15 miles to day only.

[Lewis:]

Sunday March 30th. 1806.

We got under way very early in the morning, and had not
reached the head of the island before we were met by three
men of the Clan-nah-min-na-mun nation one of whom we
recognized being the same who had accompanied us yesterday,
and who was very pressing in his entreaties that we should
visit his nation on the inlet S. W. of Wappetoe island, at the
distance of about 2 M. or at the head of the quathlahpahtle
island we met a party of the Claxtars[30] and Cathlahcumups in
two canoes; soon after we were met by several canoes of the
different nations who reside on each side of the river near this
place. Wappetoe [Sauvie] Island is about 20 miles long and
from 5 to 10 in width; the land is high and extreemly fertile
and intersected in many parts with ponds which produce great
quantities of the sagittaria Sagittifolia, the bulb of which the
natives call wappetoe. there is a heavy growth of Cottonwood,
ash, the large leafed ash and sweet willow on most parts of this
island. the black alder common on the coast has now disappeared.
we passed several fishing camps on wappetoe island,
and at the distance of 5 miles above quathlahpotle Island on
the N.E. side we halted for breakfast near the place we had
encamped on the evening of the 4th. of November last; here we
were visited by several canoes which came off from two towns
situated a little distance above us on wappetoe Island. the
1st of these tribes about a miles above us call themselves Clan-nah-quah,

the other about a mile above them call themselves
Mult-no-mah.[31] from these visiters we purchased a sturgeon
and some wappetoe and pashequa for which we gave some
small fishinghooks. these like the natives below are great
higglers in dealing. at 10 A.M. we set out and had not proceeded
far before we came to a landing place of the natives
where there were several large canoes drawn out on shore and
several natives seting in a canoe apparently waiting our arrival;
they joined the fleet and continued with us some miles. we
halted a few minutes at this landing and the Indians pointed to
a village which was situated ab[o]ut 2 miles from the river
behi[n]d a pond lying parallel with it on the N.E. side nearly
opposite to the Clan-nah-quah town. here they informed us
that the Sho-toes resided. here we were joined by several
other canoes of natives from the Island. most of these people
accompanyed us untill 4 in the evening when they all returned;
their principal object I b[el]eive was merely to indulge their
curiossity in looking at us. they appeared very friendly, tho'
most had taken the precaution to bring with them their warlike
implements. we continued our rout along the N.E. shore
of the river to the place we had halted to dine on the 4th. of
Novembr. opposite to the center of Immage canoe island
where the Indians stole Capt. Clarks tomahawk. here we
encamped a little before sunset in a beautifull prarie above a
large pond[32] having traveled 23 m. I took a walk of a few
miles through the prarie and an open grove of oak timber
which borders the prarie on the back part. I saw 4 deer in
the course of my walk and much appearance of both Elk and
deer. Joseph feields who was also out a little above me saw
several Elk and deer but killed none of them; they are very
shye and the annual furn which is now dry and abundant in
the bottoms makes so much nois in passing through it that
it is extreemly difficult to get within reach of the game. Feilds
killed and brought with him a duck. about 10 P.M. an
indian alone in a small canoe arrived at our camp, he had some
conversation with the centinel and soon departed. The natives
who inhabit this valley are larger and reather better made than
those of the coast. like those people they are fond of cold,
hot, & vapor baths of which they make frequent uce both in
sickness and in health and at all seasons of the year. they
have also a very singular custom among them of baithing
themselves allover with urine every morning. The timber and
appearance of the country is much as before discribed. the
up lands are covered almost entirely with a heavy growth of
fir of several speceis like those discribed in the neighbourhood
of Fort Clatsop; the white cedar is also found here of large
size; no white pine nor pine of any other kind. we had a
view of mount St. helines and Mount Hood. the 1st. is the
most noble looking object of it's kind in nature. it's figure
is a regular cone. both these mountains are perfectly covered
with snow; at least the parts of them which are visible. the
highlands in this valley are rolling tho' by no means too steep
for cultivation they are generally fertile of a dark rich loam
and tolerably free of stone. this valley is terminated on it's
lower side by the mountanous country which borders the coast,
and above by the rainge of mountains which pass the Columbia
between the great falls and rapids of the Columbia river. it
is about 70 miles wide on a direct line and it's length I beleive
to be very extensive tho' how far I cannot determine. this
valley would be co[m]petent to the mantainence of 40 or 50
thousand souls if properly cultivated and is indeed the only
desirable situation for a settlement which I have seen on the
West side of the Rocky mountains.

[Clark:]

Sunday March 30th. 1806

We got under way verry early and had not proceeded to
the head of the island before we met with the three men of the
Clan-nar-min-a-mon's who met us yesterday brackfast at the
upper point of the Island we met several of the Clackstar

and Cath-lah-cum-up in two canoes. soon after we were overtaken
by several canoes of different tribes who reside on each
side of the river the three above Tribes and the Clâh-in-na-ta
Cath-lah-nah-qui-up & Cath-lah-com-mah-cup reside on each
side of Wappato inlet and back of Wappato Island which
Island is formed by a small chanel which passes from the
Lower part of Image canoe Island into an inlet which makes
in from the S W. side, and receves the water of a Creek which
heads with the Kilamox River. this wappato Island is about
18 or 20 miles long and in places from 6 to 10 miles wide
high & furtile with ponds on different parts of it in which the
nativs geather wappato. nearly opposit the upper point of
the Isld. behind which we encamped last night, or on the Wappato
Isld. is several camps of the nativs catching sturgion.
about 5 miles still higher up and on the N E. side we halted
for brackfast at the place which we had encamped the 4th of
November last. here we were visited by several canoes of
Indians from two Towns a short distance above on the Wappato
Island, the 1st of those tribes call themselves Clan-nah-quah
and situated about 2 miles above us, the other about a mile
above call themselves Mult-no-mah we purchased of those
visitors a Sturgion and some wappato & quarmarsh roots for
which we gave small fishing hooks. at 10 A. M. we set out
and had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place
where there was several large canoes hauled up, and sitting in
a canoe appearantly waiting our arival with a view to join the
fleet [an] indian who was then alongside of us. this man informed
he was a Shoto and that his nation resided a little
distance from the river. we landed and one of the indians
pointed to the Shoto village which is situated back of [a] Pond
which lies parallel with the river on the NE. side nearly
opposit the Clannahquah village. here we were also joined by
several canoes loaded with the natives from the Island who
continued to accompany us untill about 4 oClock when they
all returned and we proceeded on to the place the Indians
stole my Tomahawk 4th. Nov. last and Encamped in a small
Prarie above a large Pond on N.E and opposit the center of
image canoe Island. Capt. Lewis walked out and saw several
deer. Jo. Field shot at Elk he killed and brought in a
fine duck. Soon after I had got into bead an Indian came
up alone in a small canoe. Those tribes of Indians who inhabit
this vally differ but little in either their dress, manners,
habuts and language from the Clatsops Chinnooks, and others
on the Sea coast. they differ in a fiew words and a little in the
accent. The men are stouter and much better formed than
those of the sea coast, more of their women ware their hair braded
in two tresses and hang over each ear. instead of the tissue
of bark worn by the women below, they ware a kind of leather
breech clout as before described as worn by the womin at the
enterance of Lewis's river. the width of a common pocket
Handkerchief or something smaller and longer. the two
corners of this at one of the narrow ends are confined in front
just above the hips; the other side is then brought between
their legs, compressed into a narrow folding bundle is drawn
tight, and the corners a little spred in front tucked at the ends
over and around the part first confined about the waist. a
small roab which does not reach the waist is their usial and
only garment commonly worn besides this just mentioned.
when the weather is a little worm the roab is thrown aside,
and the latter truss or breachclout constitutes the whole of their
apparreal. this is a much more indesant article than the tissue
of bark, and bearly covers the mons venus, to which it is drawn
so close that the whole Shape is plainly perseived. The
Houses are similar to those already described. they are fond
of sculpture. various figures are carved and painted on the
pieces which support the center of the roof about their dores
and beads. They are well supplied with anchoves sturgion
and Wappato. the latter furnishes the principal article of
traffic with those Tribes which they despose of to the nativs
below in exchange for beeds, cloath and various articles. the
nativs of the sea coast and lower part of this river will dispose
of their most valueable articles to obtain this root. I saw in
several houses of the Cathlahpohtle village large symeters of
Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which hang by the heads of their
beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the center tho'
thin even there, all it's edges are sharp and its greatest width
which is about 9 inches from the point, is about 4 inches. the
form is this [ILLUSTRATION] this is a form[id]able
weapon. they
have heavy bludgeons of
wood made in the same form nearly which I prosume they
use for the same purpose before they obtained metal. we
made 22 miles only to day the wind and a strong current
being against us all day with rain. discovered a high mountain
S.E. covered with snow which we call Mt. Jefferson.

[Lewis:]

Monday March 31st. 1806.

We set out early this morning and proceeded until 8 A.M.
when we Landed on the N. side opposite one large wooden
house of the Shâh-ha-la nation[33] and took breakfast, when we
decended the river in November last there were 24 other
lodges formed of Straw and covered with bark near this house;
these lodges are now distroyed and the inhabitants as the
Indians inform us have returned to the great rapids of this
river which is their permanent residence; the house which
remains is inhabited; soon after we landed two canoes came
over from this house with 4 men and a woman. they informed
us that their relations who were with them last fall usuly visit
them at that season for the purpose of hunting deer and Elk
and collecting wappetoe and that they had lately returned to
the rapids I presume to prepare for the fishing season as the
Salmon will begin to run shortly. this morning we overtook
the man who had visited our camp last night he had a fine
sturgeon in his canoe which he had just taken. the Sagittaria
Sagittifolia dose not grow on this river above the Columbian
valley. These indians of the rapids frequently visit this valley
at every season of the year for the purpose of collecting wappetoe
which is abundant and appears never to be out of season
at any time of the year. at 10 A.M. we resumed our march
accompanyed by three men in a canoe; one of these fellows
appeared to be a man of some note among them; he was

dressed in a salor's jacket which was decorated in his own
fashion with five rows of large and small buttons in front and
some large buttons on the pocket flaps. they are remarkably
fond of large brass buttons. these people speak a different
language from those below tho' in their dress habits manners
&c. they differ but little from the quathlahpohtles. their
women wear the truss as those do of all the nations residing
from the quathlahpohtles to the entrance of Lewis's river.
they differ in the manner of intering their dead. they lay
them horizontally on boards and cover them with mats, in a
valt formed with boards like the roof of a ho[u]se supported
by forks and a single pole laid horizontally on those forks.
many bodies are deposited in the same valt above ground.
these are frequently laid one on the other, to the hight of three
or fo[u]r corps. they deposit with them various articles of
which they die possessed, and most esteem while living. their
canoes are frequently broken up to strengthen the vault. these
people have a few words the same with those below but the
air of the language is intirely different, insomuch, that it may
be justly deemed a different language. their women wear
longer and larger robes generally, than those below; these are
most commonly made of deer skins dressed with the hair on
them. we continued our rout along the N. side of the river
passed diamond Island and whitebrant island to the lower point
of a handsom prarie opposite to the upper entrance of the
Quicksand river; here we encamped[34] having traveled 25 miles
to day. a little below the upper point of the Whitebrant
Island Seal river discharges itself on the N. side.[34] it is about
80 yards wide, and at present discharges a large body of water.
the water is very clear. the banks are low and near the
Columbia overflow and form several large ponds. the natives
inform us that it is of no great extent and heads in the mountains
just above us. at the distance of one mile from the
entrance of this stream it forks, the two branches being nearly
of the same size. they are both obstructed with falls and
innumerable rappids, insomuch that it cannot be navigated.
as we could not learn any name of the natives for this stream
we called it Seal river from the great abundance of those
animals which we saw about it's entrance. we determined to
remain at our present encampment a day or two for the several
purposes of examining quicksand river [which Capt. Clark could
not believe to be the river watering the Country to the Sth. and for
the purpose of] making some Celestial observations, and procuring
some meat to serve us as far as the falls or through the
Western mountains where we found the game scarce as we
decended. the three indians who accompanyed us last evening
encamped a little distance above us and visited our camp
where they remained untill 9 P.M. in the entrance of Seal
river I saw a summer duck or wood duck as they are sometimes
called. this is the same with those of our country and is
the first I have seen since I entered the rocky mountains last
summer. our hunters who had halted a little below Seal river
in consequence of the waves being too high for their small
canoe did not join us untill after dark. Drewyer who was out
below Seal river informed us that game was very scarce in that
quarter, a circumstance which we did not expect.

[Clark:]

Monday March 31st 1806

We set out this morning and proceeded untill 8 oClock
when we landed on the N. side opposit one large House of
the Shah-ha-la Nation near this house at the time we passed
on the 4th. of November last was situated 25 houses, 24 of
these were built of straw & covered with bark as before mentioned.
those [of] that description are all distroyed, the one
built of wood only remains and is inhabited. we overtook the
man whome came to our Camp last night and soon after we
landed two canoes come over from the opposit side with 5
men and a woman those people informed us that their relations
who was with them last fall reside at the Great rapids,
and were down with them last fall gathering wappato which
did not grow above, and also killing deer, that they secured
the bark of the houses which they then lived in against their
return next fall. they also inform us that their relations also

visit them frequently in the spring to collect this root which is
in great quantities on either side of the Columbia. at 10 A. M.
we proceeded on accompanied by one canoe and three men.
one of them appeared to be a man of some note, dressed in a
salors jacket which had 5 rows of large and small buttons on
it. Those people speak a different language from those below,
with some fiew words the same, the accent entirely different.
their dress and manners appear very similar. the women ware
the truss or breach clout and short robes, and men roabs only
passed up on the N. side of White brant Island near the upper
point of which a small river falls in about 80 yards wide and
at this time discharges a great quantity of water. the nativs
inform us that this river is very short and heads in the range
of mountains to the NE of its enterance into the Columbia.
the nativs haveing no name which we could learn for this little
river we call it Seal river from the great number of those
Animals which frequents its mouth. this river forks into two
nearly equal branches about 1 mile up and each branch is
crowded with rapids & falls. we proceed on about 2 miles
above the enterance of this seacalf river and imediately opposit
the upper mouth of the quick sand river we formed a camp in
a small Prarie on the North side of the Columbia where we
intend to delay one or two days to make some selestial observations,
to examine quicksand river and kill some meat to
last us through the Western Mountains which commences a
fiew miles above us and runs in a N N W. & S. S. E. derection.
The three Indians encamped near us and visited our
fire we entered into a kind of a conversation by signs, of the
country and situation of the rivers. they informed us that
Seal river headed in the mountains at no great distance.
quick sand river was short only headed in Mt. Hood which is
in view and to which he pointed. this is a circumstance we
did not expect as we had heretofore deemed [it] a consederable
river. Mount Hood bears East from this place and is distant
from this place about 40 miles. this information if true will
render it necessary to examine the river below on the South
side behind the image canoe and Wappato islands for some
river which must water the country weste of the western mountains
to the waters of California. The Columbia is at present
on a stand and we with dificuelty made 25 miles to day.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday April 1st. 1806.

This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor with two men
in a small canoe up quicksand [Sandy] river with orders to proceed
as far as he could and return this evening, we also sent
a party of three hunters over the river to hunt a large bottom
of woodland and prarie above the entrance of the Quicksand
river; the ballance of the hunters we sent out in different directions
on this side of the Columbia [and employed those about camp
in making a rope of Elkskin] the Indians who encamped near
us last evening continued with us untill about midday. they
informed us that the quicksand river which we have heretofore
deemed so considerable, only extendes through the Western
mountains as far as the S. Western side of mount hood where
it takes it's source, this mountain bears E. from this place
and is distant about 40 miles. this information was corroborated
by that of sundry other indians who visited us in the
course of the day. we were now convinced that there must
be some other considerable river which flowed into the Columbia
on it's south side below us which we have not yet seen, as
the extensive valley on that side of the river lying between the
mountainous country of the Coast and the Western mountains
must be watered by some stream which we heretofore supposed
was the quicksand river, but if it be a fact that the quicksand
river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the valley within a
few miles of it's entrance and runs nearly parallel with the
Columbia river upwards. we indeavoured to ascertain by what
stream the southern portion of the Columbian valley was
watered but could obtain no satisfactory information of the
natives on this head. they informed us that the quicksand
river is navigable a short distance only in consequence of falls
and rapids; and that no nation inhabits it. Sergt Pryor returned
in the evening and reported that he had ascended the
river six miles; that above the point at which it divides itself
into two channels it is about 300 yds. wide tho' the channel is

not more than 50 yds. and only 6 ft. deep, this is a large vollume
of water to collect in so short a distance; I therefore
think it probable that there are some large creeks falling into
it from the S.W. the bed of this stream is formed entirely of
quicksand; it's banks are low and at preasent overflown. the
water is turbid and current rapid. the following are the courses
taken by Sergt Pryor. S. 10°. W. 1.M. to a point on the Lard.
side passing a large Island on Stard. S. 24 E. 2 M. to the head
of an Island near the Lard. shore. S. 33°. E.4 M. to a Stard
point passing several islands on the Lard. side and a creek 50
yds wide on Stard. at 1 1/2 miles. the river from hence appeared
to bend to the East. he heard falls of water. several different
tribes informed us that it heads at Mount Hood. We were
visited by several canoes of natives in the course of the day;
most of whom were decending the river with their women and
children. they informed us that they resided at the great
rapids and that their relations at that place were much streightened
at that place for want of food; that they had consumed
their winter store of dryed fish and that those of the present
season had not yet arrived. I could not learn wheather they
took the sturgeon but presume if they do it is in but small
quantities as they complained much of the scarcity of food
among them. they informed us that the nations above them
were in the same situation & that they did not expect the Salmon
to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens
on the 2d. of May. we did not doubt the varacity of these
people who seemed to be on their way with their families and
effects in surch of subsistence which they find it easy to procure
in this fertile valley. This information gave us much
uneasiness with rispect to our future means of subsistence.
above [the] falls or through the plains from thence to the
Chopunnish there are no deer Antelope nor Elk on which we
can depend for subsistence; their horses are very poor most
probably at this season, and if they have no fish their dogs
must be in the same situation, under these circumstances
there seems to be but a gloomy prospect for subsistence on
any terms; we therefore took it into serious consideration what
measures we were to pursue on this occasion; it was at once
deemed inexpedient to wait the arrival of the salmon as that
would detain us so large a portion of the season that it is probable
we should not reach the United States before the ice
would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our
horses which we left in charge of the Chopunnish who informed
us they intended passing the rocky mountains to the
Missouri as early as the season would permit them w[h]ich is
as we believe about the begining of May. should these people
leave their situation near kooskooske before our arrival we
may probably find much difficulty in recovering our horses;
without which there will be but little possibility of repassing
the mountains; we are therefore determined to loose as little
time as possible in geting to the Chopunnish Village. at
3 P.M. the hunters who were sent over the river returned
having killed 4 Elk and two deer; the Elk were in good
order but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us that
game is very plenty in that quarter. the hunters on this side
of the river also returned but had killed nothing; they saw a
few Elk and deer. there was also much sign of the black bear
seen on the other side of the river. we sent a party to bring
in the flesh of the Elk and deer that were killed. they did not
return this evening. I purchased a canoe from an Indian to
day for which I gave him six fathoms of wampum beads; he
seemed satisfyed with his bargain and departed in another canoe
but shortly after returned and canceled the bargain, took his
canoe and returned the beads. this is frequently the case in
their method of traiding and is deemed fair by them.
The last evening and this morning were so cloudy that I could
neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes.

Point of observation N°. 55

At our encampment on the N. side of the Columbia opposite the
upper entrance of the Quicksand river

• Observed meridian Altitude of ☉'s U. L. 98° 34′–″
  with sextant by the direct observation

• Latitude deduced from this observation [blank space in MS.]

it was so cloudy at the time of this observation that I cannot vouch for
any great accuracy.

[Clark:]

Tuesday April 1st. 1806

This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor, with two
men in a small canoe up quick sand river with orders to proceed
as far as he could and return this evening. we also sent
a party of three hunters over the river to hunt a large bottom
of woodland and prarie above the enterance of Q. sand River;
the ballance of the hunters we sent out in different directions
on this side of the Columbia, and employed those about camp
in makeing a rope of Elk skin.

The information given by the indians to us last night respecting
quick sand river was corrobarated by sundery other indians
who visited us in the course of this day. we were now convinced
that if there information be just; that some considerable
river which flowed into the Columbia on it's South Side below
us which we have not yet seen, as the extensive vally on that
side of the river, lying between the mountanious country of
the Coast, and the western mountains must be watered by
some Stream which we had heretofore supposed was the quicksand
river, but if it be a fact that Quick sand river heads in
Mount Hood it must leave the vally within a fiew miles of it's
enterance, and runs nearly parrilel with the Columbia River
upwards, we indeavered to assertained by what stream the
south portion of the Columbian Vally was watered, but could
obtain no satisfactory information of the nativs on this head.
they inform us that the quick sand river is not naviagable any
distance in consequence of falls and rapids; and that no nation
inhabit it. Sergt. Pryor returned in the evening and reported
that he had assendd. the river six miles; that above the point
which it divides itself into two chanels, it is about 300 yards
wide tho' the chanel is not more than 50 yards, and only 6
feet deep. the other part of the river from 2 to 4 inches
water, the bead of this river is formed entirely of quick sand;
its banks are low and at present overflown, the water is
turbed and current rapid. The following are the courses taken
by Sergt. Pryor.

"S. 10°. W. 1 mile to a point on the Lard. side passing a large
island on Stard side. S. 24° E. 2 M. to the head of the island
near the Lard Shore. S 33°. E 4 M to a Stard. point passing

several islands on the Lard side and a Creek 50 yards wide on
the Stard. side at 1 1/2 miles. the river from hence upwards
bend to the East. a fall of water heard at no great distance
up this river." Several different tribes of indians inform us
that it heads at Mount Hood which is in view.

we were visited by several canoes of the nativs in the course
of this day; most of whome were decending the river with
their womin and children. they inform us that they reside at
the great rapids and that their relations at that place were much
streightened for the want of food, that they had consumed
their winter store of dryed fish and those of the present season
had not yet arived. I could not lern whether they took the
Sturgion but prosume if they do it is in but small quantities as
they complain much of the scercity of food among them, they
informed us that the nativs above them were in the same situation,
and that they did not expect the salmon to arrive untill
the full of the next moon which happens on the 2nd. of May.
we did not doubt the veracity of those people who seamed to
be on their way with their families and effects in serch of subsistence
which they find it easy to precure in this fertile vally.
This information givs us much uneasiness with respect to our
future means of subsistence, above the falls, on through the
Plains from thence to the Chopunnish there are no Deer
Antilopes or Elk on which we could depend for subsistence;
their horses are very poor most probably at this season, and
if they have no fish their dogs must be in the same situation,
under these circumstances there seams to be a gloomey prospect
for subsistence on any terms; we therefore took it into
serious consideration what measure we were to pursue on this
occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to waite the
arival of the salmon as that would detain us so long a portion
of the season that it is probable we should not reach the U
States before the ice would close the Missouri; or at all events
would hazard our horses which we left in charge of the Chopunnish
who informed us that they intended passing the Rocky
Mountains to the Missouri as early as the season would permit
them which is about the first of May. Should these people
leave their situation near Kooskooske before our arival we may

probably find much dificulty in recovering our horses; without
which there will be but little possibility of repassing the
Mountains; we are therefore determined to lose as little time
as possible in getting to the Chopunnish Village.

At 3 P.M. the hunters who were sent over the river returned
haveing killed 4 Elk and 2 Deer; the Elk were in
good order but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us
that game is very plenty in that quarter. the hunters on this
side of the river also returned but had killed nothing; they
saw a fiew Elk and Deer. there were also much sign of the
black bear seen on the other side of the river. we sent a party
to bring in the flesh of the Elk and Deer that were killed.
they did not return this evening. we purchased a Canoe from
an Indian today for six fathoms of white wampom; he seemed
satisfied with his bargin and departed in another Canoe but
shortly after returned and canseled the bargain; took his
canoe and returned the beeds. this is frequently the case in
their method of trading and is deemed fair by them. The
last evening and this morning were so cloudy that we could
neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday April 2ed. 1806.

This morning we came to a resolution to remain at our
present encampment or some where in this neighbourhood
untill we had obtained as much dryed meat as would be necessary
for our voyage as far as the Chopunnish. to exchange
our perogues for canoes with the natives on our way to the
great falls of the columbia or purchase such canoes from them
for Elkskins and Merchandize as would answer our purposes.
these canoes we intend exchanging with the natives of the
plains for horses as we proceed untill we obtain as many as
will enable us to travel altogether by land. at some convenient
point, perhaps at the entrence of the S.E. branch of the
Columbia, we purpose sending a party of four or five men a
head to collect our horses that they may be in readiness for us
by our arrival at the Chopunnish; calculating by thus acquiring

a large stock of horses we shall not only secure the means of
transporting our baggage over the mountains but that we will
also have provided the means of subsisting; for we now view
the horses as our only certain resource for food, nor do we
look forward to it with any detestation or horrow [horror], so
soon is the mind which is occupyed with any interesting object,
reconciled to it's situation. The men who were sent in quest
of the Elk and deer that were killed yesterday returned at
8 A.M. this morning. we now enformed the party of our
intention of laying in a store of meat at this place, and immediately
dispatched two parteis consisting of nine men to the
opposite side of the river. five of those we sent below the
Quicksand river and 4 above. we also sent out three others
on this side, and those who remained in camp were employed
in collecting wood making a scaffoald and cutting up the meat
in order to dry it. about this time several canoes of the
natives arrived at our camp and among others one from below
which had on board eight men of the Shah-ha-la nation these
men informed us that 2 young men whom they pointed out
were Cash-hooks and resided at the falls of a large river which
discharges itself into the Columbia on it's South side some
miles below us. we readily prevailed on them to give us a
sketch of this river which they drew on a mat with a coal. it
appeared that this river which they called Mult-no-mâh[35] discharged
itself behind the Island which we called the image canoe
Island and as we had left this island to the S. both in ascending
and decending the river we had never seen it. they informed
us that it was a large river and run a considerable distance to
the South between the mountains. Capt. Clark determined to
return and examine this river accordingly he took a party
of seven men and one of the perogues and set out 1/2 after
11 A.M., he hired one of the Cashhooks, for a birning glass,
to pilot him to the entrance of the Multnomah river and took
him on board with him. in their manners dress language and
stature these people are the same with the quathlahpohtle
nation and others residing in the neighbourhood of wappetoe
Island. near the entrance of Multnomah river a considerable
nation resides on the lower side of that stream by the same
name. as many as ten canoes with natives arrived at our camp
in the course of the day; most of them were families of men
women and children decencing the river. they all gave the
same account of the scarcity of provision above. I shot my
air gun with which they were much astonished. one family
consisting of ten or twelve persons remained near us all night.
they conducted themselves in a very orderly manner. the
three hunters on this side of the river returned in the evening
they had killed two deer, tho' they were so poor and at such
a distance from camp that they brought in their skins only.
the night and morning being cloudy I was again disappointed
in making the observations I wished. at noon I observed the
 

Meridian Altitude of the ☉'s U.L. with sextant by the direct obsn.

99°· 20′· 45″·

Latitude deduced from this observation [blank space in MS.]

This observation may be depended on to 15″ of a degree.

Fir is the common growth of the uplands, as is the cottonwood,
ash, large leafed ash and sweet willow that of the bottom
lands. the huckleburry, shallon, and the several evergreen
shrubs of that speceis which bear burries have seased to appear
except that speceis which has the leaf with a prickly margin.
among the plants of this prarie in which we are encamped I
observe the passhequo, Shannetahque, and compound firn the
roots of which the natives eat; also the water cress, strawburry,
flowering pea not yet in blume, the sinquefoil, narrow dock,
sand rush which are luxuriant and abundant in the river
bottoms; a speceis of the bearsclaw of which I preserved a
specemine it is in blume. the large leafed thorn has also disappeared.
the red flowering currant is found here in considerable
quantities on the uplands. the hunters inform me that
there are extensive praries on the highlands a few miles back
from the river on this side, the land is very fertile.

[Clark:]

Wednesday April 2nd. 1806

This morning we came to a resolution to remain at our
present encampment or some where in this neighbourhood
untill we had obtained as much dried meat as would be necessary
for our voyage as far as the Chopunnish. to exchange
our large canoes for small ones with the nativs on our way to
the great Falls of the Columbia or purchase such canoes from
them for Elk skins and Merchandize as would answer our
purposes. these canoes we intend exchangeing with the nativs
of the Plains for horses as we proceed untill we obtain as maney
as will enable us to travel altogether by land. at some convenient
point, perhaps at the enterance of Lewis's River we
intend sending a party of 4 or 5 men a head to collect our
horses that they may be in readiness for us by our arrival at
the Chopunnish; calculating by thus acquiring a large stock
of horses we shall not only secure the means of transporting
our baggage over the Mountains, but that we also have provided
the means of subsisting; for we now view the horses as
our only certain resource for food, nor do we look foward to it
with any detestation or horrow, so soon is the mind which is
occupied with any interesting object, reconsiled to it's situation.
The men who went in quest of the Elk and Deer which were
killed yesterday returned at 8 A. M. this morning. we now
informed the party of our intention of laying in a store of meat
at this place, and imediately dispatched two parties consisting
of nine men to the opposit side of the river. 5 of them below
and 4 above quick sand River. we also sent out 3 others on
this side, and those who remained in camp were employd in
collecting wood makeing a scaffold and cutting up the meat in
order to dry it. about this time several canoes of the nativs
arived at our Camp among others two from below with Eight
men of the Shah-ha-la Nation those men informed us that
they reside on the opposit side of the Columbia near some
pine trees which they pointed to in the bottom South of the
Dimond Island, they singled out two young men whome
they informed us lived at the Falls of a large river which discharges
itself into the Columbia on it's south side some miles
below us. we readily prevailed on them to give us a sketch of

this river which they drew on a Mat with a coal, it appeared
that this river which they call Mult-nó-mah discharged itself
behind the Island we call the image canoe island, and as we
had left this island to the south in decending & assending the
river we had never seen it. they informed us that it was a
large river and runs a considerable distance to the south between
the Mountains. I deturmined to take a small party and return
to this river and examine its size and collect as much information
of the nativs on it or near it's enterance into the Columbia
of its extent, the country which it waters and the nativs who
inhabit its banks &c. I took with me six men, Thompson J.
Potts, Peter Crusat, P. Wiser, T. P. Howard, Jos. Whitehouse
& my man York in a large Canoe, with an Indian whome
I hired for a Sun glass to accompany me as a pilot. at half
past 11 A. M. I set out, and had not proceeded far eer I saw
4 large canoes at some distance above decending and bending
their course towards our Camp which at this time is very
weak Capt. Lewis haveing only 10 men with him. I hesitated
for a moment whether it would not be advisable for me
to return and delay untill a part of our hunters should return
to add more strength to our Camp. but on a second reflection
and reverting to the precautions always taken by my friend
Capt Lewis on those occasions banished all apprehensions and
I proceeded on down. at 8 miles passed a village on the
South side at this place my Pilot informed me he resided and
that the name of the tribe is Ne-cha-co-lee,[36] this village is back
on the South of Dimond island, and as we passed on the North
side of the island both decending and assending did not see or
know of this village. I proceeded on without landing at this
village, at 3 P. M. I landed at a large double house of the
Ne-er-che-ki-oo tribe of the Shah-ha-la Nation. at this place
we had seen 24 aditional straw Huts as we passed down last
fall and whome as I have before mentioned reside at the Great
rapids of the Columbia, on the bank at different places I
observed small canoes which the women make use of to gather
wappato & roots in the Slashes. those canoes are from 10
to 14 feet long and from 18 to 23 inches wide in the widest
part tapering from the center to both ends in this form
[ILLUSTRATION] and about 9 inches deep
and so light that a woman
may with one hand haul
them with ease, and they are sufficient to carry a woman an[d]
some loading. I think 100 of these canoes were piled up and
scattered in different directions about in the woods, in the
vicinity of this house, the pilot informed me that those canoes
were the property of the inhabitents of the Grand rapids who
used them ocasionally to gather roots. I entered one of the
rooms of this house and offered several articles to the nativs in
exchange for wappato. they were sulkey and they positively
refused to sell any. I had a small pece of port fire match in
my pocket, off of which I cut a pece one inch in length & put
it into the fire and took out my pocket compas and set myself
down on a mat on one side of the fire, and [also showed] a
magnet which was in the top of my ink stand the port fire
cought and burned vehemently, which changed the colour of
the fire; with the magnit I turned the needle of the compas
about very briskly; which astonished and alarmed these nativs
and they laid several parsles of wappato at my feet, & begged
of me to take out the bad fire; to this I consented; at this
moment the match being exhausted was of course extinguished
and I put up the magnet &c. this measure alarmed them so
much that the womin and children took shelter in their beads
and behind the men, all this time a very old blind man was
speaking with great vehemunce, appearently imploring his god.
I lit my pipe and gave them smoke, & gave the womin the full
amount [value] of the roots which they had put at my feet.
they appeared somewhat passified and I left them and proceeded
on. on the south side of Image Canoe Island which I
found to be two Islands, hid from the opposit side by one
near the center of the river. the lower point of the upper and
the upper point of the lower cannot be seen from the North
Side of the Columbia on which we had passed both decending
and ascending and had not observed the apperture between
those islands. at the distance of 13 miles below the last village
and at the place I had supposed was the lower point of the
image canoe island, I entered this river which the nativs had
informed us of, called Multnomah River so called by the nativs
from a nation who reside on Wappato Island a little below the
enterance of this river. Multnomah discharges itself in the
Columbia on the S.E. and may be justly said to be 1/4 the size
of that noble river. Multnomah had fallen 18 inches from its
greatest annual height. three small Islands are situated in it's
mouth which hides the river from view from the Columbia.
from the enterance of this river, I can plainly see Mt. Jefferson
which is high and covered with snow S.E. Mt. Hood East, Mt
St. Helians [and] a high humped mountain [Mount Adams] to
the East of Mt. St. Helians.
         

S 30° W.	2	miles to the upper point of a small island in the middle of Moltnomar river. thence
S. 10°. W.	3	miles to a sluce 80 yards wide which devides Wappato Island from the main stard. side shore passing a willow point on the Lard. side.
S. 60°. E.	3	miles to a large Indian house on the Lard side below some high pine land. high bold shore on the Starboard side. thence
S. 30° E	2	miles to a bend under the high lands on the Stard. Side passing a Larboard point.
	10

thence the river bends to the East of S East as far as I could
see. at this place I think the width of the river may be stated
at 500 yards and sufficiently deep for a Man of war or ship of
any burthen.

[Lewis:]

Thursday April 3rd. 1806.

Early this morning Joseph Fields came over and informed
me that Reubin Feilds Drewyer and himself had killed four
Elk. as the party with me were now but weak and the
Indians constantly crouding about our camp, I thought it best
to send a few men to dry the meat on the other side of the
river; accordingly Sergt. Pryor and two men returned with
Jos. Fields for that purpose. the hunters were ordered to

continue the chase, while the others were employed in drying
the meat. I have had no account as yet from the party below
the entrance of Quicksand river. The Indians continued to
visit us to day in considerable numbers most of them were
decending the river with their families these poor people
appeared to be almost starved, they picked up the bones and
little peices of refuse meat which had been thrown away by the
party. they confirm the report of the scarcity of provision
among the natives above. I observe some of the men among
them who wear a girdle arround the waist between which and
the body in front they confine a small skin of the mink or
polecat which in some measure conceals the parts of generation.
they also frequently wear a cap formed of the skin of the deer's
head with the ears left on it, they have some collars of leather
wrought with porcupine quills after the method of the Shoshonees.
From this place Mount Hood bears S. 85°. E. distant
40 miles. This evening we completed drying the flesh
of the Elk which had been brought to camp. at 6 P.M.
Capt. Clark returned, having completely succeeded in his expedition.
he found the entrance of the large river of which
the Indians had informed us, just at the upper part of
wappetoe Island. the following is a sketch of the river furnished
Capt C. by an old and inteligent Indian man.[37] (add
Clahnaquah

[Clark:]

Thursday April 3rd. 1806

The water had fallen in the course of last night five inches.
I set out and proceeded up a short distance and attempted a
second time to fathom the river with my cord of 5 fathom but
could find no bottom. the mist was so thick that I could see
but a short distance up this river. When I left it, it was bending
to the East of S.E. being perfectly satisfyed of the size
and magnitude of this great river which must water that vast
tract of Country between the western range of mountains and
those on the sea coast and as far S. as the Waters of Callifornia

about Latd. 37. North. I deturmined to return.[38] at
7 oClock A. M. set out on my return. the men exirted themselves
and we arived at the Neerchokioo house in which the
nativs were so illy disposed yesterday at 11 A. M. I entered
the house with a view to smoke with those people who consisted
of about 8 families, finding my presence alarmed them
so much that the children hid themselves, womin got behind
their men, and the men hung their heads, I detained but a fiew
minits and returnd on board the canoe. My pilot who continued
in the canoe informed me on my return that those
people as well as their relations were very illy disposed and
bad people. I proceeded on along the south side met five
canoes of the Shah-ha-la Nation from the Great rapids with
their wives and children decending the Columbia into this
fertile Vally in pursute of provisions. My pilot informed me
in a low voice that those people were not good, and I did
not suffer them to come along side of my canoe which they
appeared anxious to do. their numbers in those canoes who
appeard anxious to come along side was 21 men and 3 boys.
at 3 P. M. we arived at the residence of our Pilot which consists
of one long house with seven appartments or rooms in
square form about 30 feet each room opening into a passage
which is quit[e] through the house those passages are about
4 feet in width and formed of wide boa[r]ds set on end in
the ground and reaching to the Ruff [roof] which serves
also as divisions to the rooms. The ground plot is in this
form [ILLUSTRATION] 1.1.1.1 is the passages. 2.2 &c. is the
apartments about 30 feet square. this
house is built of bark of the white cedar
Supported on long stiff poles resting on the ends of broad
boads which form the rooms &c. back of this house I observe
the wreck of 5 houses remaining of a very large village, the
houses of which had been built in the form of those we first
saw at the long narrows of the E-lute Nation with whome those
people are connected. I indeavored to obtain from those
people of the situation of their nation, if scattered or what had
become of the nativs who must have peopled this great town.
an old man who appeared of some note among them and father
to my guide brought foward a woman who was badly marked
with the Small Pox and made signs that they all died with the
disorder which marked her face, and which she was verry near
dieing with when a girl. from the age of this woman this
Distructive disorder I judge must have been about 28 or 30
years past, and about the time the Clatsops inform us that
this disorder raged in their towns and distroyed their nation.
Those people speak a different language from those below tho'
in their dress habits and manners &c. they differ but little from
the Quathlahpohtles. their women ware the truss as those do
of all the nations residing from the Quathlahpohtle to the
enterance of Lewis's river and on the Columbia above for some
distance. those people have some words the same with those
below but the air of their language is entirely different, their
men are stouter and much better made, and their womin ware
larger & longer robes than those do below; those are most
commonly made of Deer skins dressed with the hair on them.
they pay great attention to their aged severall men and
women whom I observed in this village had arived at a great
age, and appeared to be helthy tho' blind. I prevailed on an
old man to draw me a sketch of the Multnomar River and
give me the names of the nations resideing on it which he
readily done, and gave me the names of 4 nations who reside
on this river two of them very noumerous. The first is Clark-a-mus
nation reside on a small river which takes its rise in
Mount Jefferson and falls into the Moltnomar aboue 40 miles
up. this nation is noumerous and inhabit 11 Towns. the 2d.
is the Cush-hooks who reside on the N E. side below the falls,
the 3rd. is the Char-cowah who reside above the Falls on the
S W. side neither of those two are noumerous. The fourth
Nation is the Cal-lar-po-e-wah[39] which is very noumerous & inhabit
the country on each side of the Multnomar from its falls
as far up as the knowledge of those people extend. they inform
me also that a high mountain passes the Multnomar at
the falls, and above the country is an open plain of great extent.
I purchased 5 dogs of those people for the use of their oil in
the Plains, and at 4 P M left the village and proceeded on
to Camp where I joind Capt. Lewis.

The enterance of Multnomah river is 142 miles up the
Columbia river from its enterance into the Pacific Ocean.

In my absence and soon after I left camp several canoes of
men women and children came to the camp, and at one time
there was about 37 of those people in camp Capt Lewis fired
his Air gun which astonished them in such a manner that they
were orderly and kept at a proper distance dureing the time
they continued with him. as maney as 10 canoes arrived at
camp in the course of this day. they all seemed to give the
same account of the scercity of Provisions above. one family
continued all night and behaved themselves in a very orderly
manner.

on the 3d. Joseph Field returned from the woods and informed
th[at] Drewyer Rubin & himself had killed four Elk.
Cap L. sent Sergt. Pryor and two men with Joseph Field to
dry the flesh of the Elk in the woods on scaffolds with fire.
the party below quick sand river did not return to day. The
Indians continue to visit our camp in considerable number
from above with their families. these pore people appeared
half starved. they picked up the bones and little refuse meat
which had been thrown away by the party. Capt. L had the
flesh of the 4 Elk which was killed on the 1st. inst. dried. Some
of the men of the nativs who visited Capt. Lewis wore a girdle
with a small skin in front and a cap of the skin of the deers
head &c.