University of Virginia Library

Chapter XXV

FROM SANDY RIVER TO THE DALLES OF
THE COLUMBIA

XXV. Lewis's Journal, April 4–17, 1806
Clark's Journal, Apr. 4–17

[Lewis:]

Friday April 4th 1806.

THIS morning we sent Sergt. Ordway in Surch of Sergt.
Gass and party below the entrance of the Quicksand
river from whom we have yet had no report. in the
course of a few hours both parties returned. Sergt. Gass and
party brought the flesh of a bear and some venison. they
informed us that they had killed an Elk and six deer tho' the
flesh of the greater part of those animals was so meagre that it
was unfit for uce and they had therefore left it in the woods.
Collins who had killed the bear, found the bed of another in
which there were three young ones; and requested to be permitted
to return in order to waylay the bed and kill the
female bear; we permitted him to do so; Sergt. Gass and
Windsor returned with him. Several parties of the natives
visit us today as usual both from above and below; those
who came from above were moving with their families, and
those from below appeared to be impeled mearly by curiossity
to see us. About noon we despatched Gibson Shannon
Howard and Wiser in one of the light canoes, with orders to
proceed up the Columbia to a large bottom on the South side
about six miles above us and to hunt untill our arrival. late
in the evening Joseph Fields and Drewyer returned. they had
killed two deer yesterday and informed us that the meat would
be dryed by midday tomorrow. we directed Drewyer and the
two Feildses to ascend the river tomorrow to join Gibson and
party, and hunt untill our arrival. this evening being fair I

observed time and distance of D's Eastern Limb from regulus
with Sextant. * West.

           

	Time. h. m. s.	Distance.	Time h m s	Distance
P.M.	8 . 50 . 41	73°. 15′. 0″.	P.M. 9 . 10 . 9.	73°. 27″.—″
	" .53 . 44	" . 16 . 45.	" . 15 . 57	" . 30 .—
	" . 57 . 58	" . 19 . 15.	" . 18 . 25	" . 32 . 15
	9. 3 . 20	" . 23 . 15.	" . 20 . 12.	" . 32 . 45
	" . 6 . 49	" . 26 . 45.	" . 22 .—	" . 33 . 15

[Clark:]

Friday April 4th.. 1806. Mouth of Quick Sand River.[1]

This morning early we sent Sergt. Ordway in serch of Sergt.
Gass and party below the enterance of Quick sand river from
whome we have yet had no report in the course of a fiew
hours both parties returned. Sergt. Gass and party brought
the Flesh of a Bear, and some venison. they informed us
they had killed an Elk and Six Deer tho' the flesh of the
greater part of those Animals were so Meagre that it was unfit
for uce, and they had therefore left it in the woods. Collins
who had killed the Bear, found the bead of another in which
there was three young ones; and requested to be permited to
return in order to waylay the bed and kill the female bear;
we permited him to do so; Sergt. Gass and Windser returned
with him. Several parties of the nativs visit us to day as usial
both from above and below; those who came from above were
moveing with their families, and those from below appeared to
be impeled mearly by curiosity to see us. About noon we
dispatched Gibson, Shannon; Howard & Wiser in one of the
light canoes, with orders to proceed up the Columbia to a
large bottom on the South Side about six miles above us and
there to hunt untill our arrival. late in the evening Jos.
Fields and Drewyer returned with a load of dried meat. they
had killed two deer yesterday and informed us that the meat
would be dryed by mid-day tomorrow. We directed Drewyer
and Field's to assend the river tomorrow and join Gibson &

CLARK'S SKETCH MAP OF TRAILS
BETWEEN THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA
AND THE YELLOWSTONE

party and hunt untill our arrival. this evening being fair
observed time and distance of D's Eastern Limb from regulus
with sextant * West[2]

[Lewis:]

Saturday April 5th. 1806.

This morning was so cloudy that I could not obtain any
lunar observations with a Aquilae as I wished. Joseph Fields
and Drewyer departed this morning agreeably to their orders
of last evening. at 9 A.M. we Sent Sergt. Ordway and a
party to assist Sergt. Pryor in bringing in the meat of four Elk
which he had dryed. at 1 P.M. the party returned with the
meat. it had been so illy dryed that we feared it would not
keep. we therefore directed it to be cut thinner and redryed over
a fire this evening, as we purpose setting out early in the morning.
the deerskins which we have had cased for the purpose
of containing our dryed meat are not themselves sufficiently
dryed for that purpose, we directed them to be dryed by the
fire also. the weather has been so damp that there was no
possibility of pounding the meat as I wished. we were visited
to day by several parties of the natives as usual; they behaved
themselves in a very orderly manner.

Observed Magnetic Azimuth and altitude of the ☉ with Circumferenter
and Sextant.

       

	Time by Chromometer	Altitude of ☉'s U L. with Sextant	Azimuth of ☉ by Circumferenter
	h m s
A.M.	6 . 58 . 3	51 . 33 . 30	S. 89° . E.
	7 . 2. 43	53 . 7 .—.	S. 88° . E.

immediately after this observation the sun was suddenly obscured by a
cloud and prevented my taking Equal Al[t]itudes. I therefore had
recourse to two altitudes in the evening which I obtained as the sun
happened to shine a few minutes together through the passing clouds.

       

	Time	Altitude of ☉'s L. L. with sextant.
	h m s
P.M.	0 . 35. 21.	89 . 29. 15
	3. 13. 24.	43. 43. 30.

Saw the Log cock, the humming bird, gees ducks &c. today.
the tick has made it's appearance it is the same with
those of the Atlantic States. the Musquetoes have also appeared
but are not yet troublesome. this morning at 10.
oClock Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windsor they
had not succeeded in killing the female bear tho' they brought
the three cubs with them. the Indians who visited us today
fancyed these petts and gave us wappetoe in exchange for
them. Drewyer informed me that he never knew a female
bear return to her young when they had been allarmed by a
person and once compelled to leave them. The dogwood
grows abundantly on the uplands in this neighbourhood. it
differs from that of the United States in the appearance of it's
bark which is much smoother, it also arrives here to much
greater size than I ever observed it elsewhere sometimes the
stem is nearly 2 feet in diameter.[3] we measured a fallen tree
of fir N°. 1. which was 318 feet including the stump which was
about 6 feet high. this tree was only about 31/2 feet in diameter.
we saw the martin, small gees, the small speckled woodpecker
with a white back, the Blue crested Corvus, ravens,
crows, eagles Vultures and hawks. the mellow [melon] bug
and long leged spider have appeared, as have also the butterfly
blowing fly and many other insects. I observe not any among
them which appear to differ from those of our country or
which deserve particular notice.

[Clark:]

Saturday April 5th.. 1806.

This morning was so cloudy that we could not obtain any
lunar observations with a Aquilæ as we wished. Joseph Fields
& Drewyer left us this morning agreeably to their orders of
last evening. at the same time we sent Sergt. Ordway and five
men to assist Sergt. Pryor in bringing in the meat of four Elk
which he had dried in the woods. at 1 p.m. the party returned
withe the meat. it was not sufficiently dryed to keep. we
had it cut thiner and redryed over a fire this evening, as we
purpose setting out early in the morning. the dear skins

which we had cased for the purpose of holding our dried meat
is not sufficently dry for that purpose, we derected them to
be dried by the fire also. the weather being so damp that
there was no possibulity of pounding the meat as I wished.
We were visited by several parties of the nativs to day; they
behaved themselves in a very orderly manner.[4]

Saw the Log cock, the humming bird, Geese, Ducks &c. to
day. the tick has made it's appearance it is the same with
those of the Atlantic States, the Musquetors have also appeared
but are not yet much troublesom. this morning at
10. A.M. Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windser they
had not succeeded in killing the female bear, tho' they brought
the three cub's with them. the Indians who visited us to day
fancied those pets and gave us wappato in exchange for them.
Fir and white cedar is the common growth of the uplands, as
is the cotton wood, ash, large leafed Ash and sweet willow that
of the bottom lands. The Huckleberry, shallon, and the
several evergreen shrubs, of that speces that bears berries have
seased to appear, except that species which has the leaf with
a prickley margin. among the plants of this prarie in which
we are encamped I observe the pashequo, shannetahque, and
compound firn the root of which the nativs eate; also the
water cress, strawberry flowering pea not yet in blume, narrow
dock, and rush which are luxuriant and abundent in the river
bottoms.[5] the large leafed thorn has also disappeared The
red flowering current is found here in considerable quantities
on the upland,[6] and the common Dog wood is found on either
side of the river in this neighbourhood and above Multnomah
river. The country on either side is fertile, the bottoms on
the South Side is wide and intersperced with small ponds in
which the natives gather their wappato. back of this bottom

the country rises to about 200 feet and the soil is very rich as
that also above Q[uick] Sandy river quite to the mountains.
the country on the N. Side from a fiew miles above this place
as low down as the enterance of Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River
rises to the hight generally of 150 or 200 feet is tolerably
leavel, thickly timbered with Fir and white cedar, the soil of
the richest quallity. Some small Praries on the bank of the
river. That portion of country below as low down as the
enterance of Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River is a broken rich country.
the hills are high, the bottom lands as before mentioned and
fertile &c. The country a fiew miles up the Multnomah River
rises from the river bottoms to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet
and is rich & fertile. Some plains can be seen to the N.E. of
our camp of 10 or 12 miles in secumference The Hunters &
Serjt. Pryor informe us that they had measured a tree on the
upper side of quick sand River 312 feet long and about 4 feet
through at the stump.

[Lewis:]

Sunday April 6th 1806.

This morning we had the dryed meat secured in skins and
the canoes loaded; we took breakfast and departed at 9 A.M.
we continued up the N. side of the river nearly to the place at
which we had encamped on the 3rd. of Nov. when we passed
the river to the south side in quest of the hunters we had sent
up yesterday and the day before. from the appearance of a
rock near which we were encamped on the 3rd. of November
last I could judge better of the rise of the water than I could
at any point below. I think the flood of this spring has been
about 12 feet higher than it was at that time; the river is here
about 11/2 miles wide; it's general width from the beacon
[beaten before—but really beacon] rock which may be esteemed
the head of tide water, to the marshey islands is from one to
2 miles tho' in many places it is still wider. it is only in the
fall of the year when the river is low that the tides are persceptable
as high as the beacon rock. this remarkable rock
which stands on the North shore of the river is unconnected
with the hills and rises to the hight of seven hundred feet; it

has some pine or reather fir timber on it's no[r]thern side, the
southern is a precipice of it's whole hight. it rises to a very
sharp point and is visible for 20 miles below on the river. at
the distance of ten miles from our encampment we met with
our hunters in the upper end of the bottom to which we had
directed them on the South side of the river. they had killed
three Elk this morning and wounded two others so badly that
they expected to get them. we therefore determined to encamp
for the evening at this place in order to dry the meat, in surch
of which we sent a party immediately and employed others in
preparing scaffoalds and collecting firewood &c. against their
return. we found some indians with our hunters when we
arrived; these people are constantly hanging about us. As
has been before mentioned Capt C set out with a party of seven
men on 2ed inst. in surch of the entrance of the Multnomah
river.[7]

The party whom we sent for the flesh of the Elk which
Shannon had killed returned in the evening with that of four,
one had by some mistake been omitted. Drewyer and Shannon
found the two wounded Elk and had killed them. we set
all hands at work to prepare the meat for the scaffoald they
continued their operations untill late at night. we directed
Shannon to go out early in the morning with a party to bring
in the Elk which had been left last evening in mistake. we
also directed Drewyer and the two Feildses to ascend the river
early in the morning to a small bottom a few miles above and
hunt untill our arrival.

[Clark:]

Sunday April 6th. 1806

Two Indians came last night very late to our camp and continued
all night, early we had all the meat packed up and our
canoes loaded ready for to set out, and after an early brackfast
at which time all things were ready and we set out, and proceeded
to the Camp of Gibson & party about 9 miles, they

had killed 3 Elk at no great distance and wounded two others
so badly that we expect to precure them. Sent a party of six
men with Shannon who had killed the Elk to bring in the Elk,
and formed a Camp, near which we had a scaffold made ready
to dry the meat as soon as it should arive. Reubin Fields
killed a bird of the quail kind or class which was whistleing
near our camp it is larger than the quail or partridge as they
are called [in] Kentucky and Virginia, its form is presisely that
of our partridge tho' its plumage differs in every part, the
upper part of the head, sides and back of the neck, including
the Croop and about 1/3 of the under part of the body is of a
bright dove coloured blue, under neath the under beak, as high
as the lower edge of the eye, and back as far as the hinder
part of the eyes and thence comeing down to a point in the
front of the neck about 2/3rd. of it's length downwards, is of a
fine dark brick red. between this brick red and the dove
colour there runs a narrow stripe of pure white. the ears are
covered with some coarse dark brown feathers. just at the
base of the under chap there is a narrow transvirce stripe of
white. from the crown of the head two long round feathers
extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak and are
of a black colour. the length of these feathers is 21/2 inches.
one overlais and conseals the other which is somewhat shorter
and seems to be [w]raped in the plumage of that in front
which folding backwards colapses behind and has a round
appearance. the tail is composed of 12 dark brown feathers
of nearly equal length. the large feathers of the wings are of
a dark brown & are reather short in purpotion to the body of
the bird. in this respect very similar to the partridge. the
covert of the wings and back are of a dove colour with a slight
admixture of redish brown. a wide stripe which extends from
side to side of the body and occupies the lower region of the
breast is beautifully varigated with the brick red white & black
which perdominates in the order they are mentioned and the
colours mark the feathers transversely. the legs are covered
with feathers as low as the Knee; these feathers are of dark
brown tiped with a dark brick red as are also those between
and about the joining of the legs with the body. the foot is
presisely that of the common partridge except that they are as
also the legs white. the upper beak is short, wide at it's base,
black, convex, curved downwards and reather obtusely pointed.
it exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a white
colour, also convex underneath and obtusely pointed. the
nostrils are remarkably small, placed far back and low down on
the sides of the beak. they are covered by a thin prot[ub]erant
elastic, black leather like substance. the eyes are of a
uniform pierceing black colour. this is a most butifull bird I
preserved the skin of this bird retaining the wings feet & head
which I hope will give a just Idea of the bird.[8] it's loud note
is single and consists of a loud squall, intirely different from
the whistling of our partridge or quailes. it has a chiping note
when allarmed like our partridge. to day there was a second
of those birds killed which precisely resembles that just
discribed. I believe those to be the mail bird the female, if
so, I have not yet seen.

at 6 P. M. Shannon and party returned with the flesh of
five Elk. the two he had wounded in the morning he found
dead near the place he had Shot them. we had the meat cut
into thin pi[e]ces and scaffor[l]ed with a fire under it to dry
it, which we expect in the course of the night can be effected.
four Indians from the great rapids visited us to day and continued
all day. they give the same account of the scercity of
provisions above the falls as has already been given by others.
This supply of Elk I think by useing economey and in addition
of roots and dogs which we may probably precure from
the Nativs on Lewis's river will be sufficient to last us to the
Chopunnish where we shall meet with our horses, and near
which place there is some deer to be precured. Frazer killed
a pheasent of the common kind. Jos: Field killed a vulture
of that speces already discribed. in the evening late the
Indians left us and returned to their village. we derected
that fires be kept under the meat all night. and th[at] Drewyer
and the two Fields proceed on to the next bottom and hunt
untill we should arive. 9 miles

[Lewis:]

Monday April 7th. 1806.

This morning early the flesh of the remaining Elk was brought
in and Drewyer with the Feildses departed agreeably to the
order of the last evening. we employed the party in drying
the meat today which we completed by the evening, and we
had it secured in dryed Elkskins and put on board in readiness
for an early departure. we were visited today by several
parties of indians from a village about 8 miles above us of the
S[h]ah-halah nation. I detected one of them in steeling a
peice of lead and sent him from camp. I hope we have now
a sufficient stock of dryed meat to serve us as far the Chopunnish
provided we can obtain a few dogs horses and roots by
the way. in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish we can
procure a few deer and perhaps a bear or two for the mountains.
last evening Reubin Field killed a bird of the quail
kind it is reather larger than the quail, or partridge as they are
called in Virginia. (copy for Dr. Barton) it's form is precisely
that of our partridge tho' it's plumage differs in every part.
the upper part of the head, sides and back of the neck, including
the croop and about 1/3 of the under part of the body is of
a bright dovecoloured blue, underneath the under beak, as
high as the lower edge of the eyes, and back as far as the
hinder part of the eyes and thence coming down to a point in
front of the neck about two thirds of it's length downwards,
is of a fine dark brick red. between this brick red and the
dove colour there runs a narrow stripe of pure white. the
ears are covered with some coarse stiff dark brown feathers.
just at the base of the under chap there is [a] narrow transverse
stripe of white. from the crown of the head two long round
feathers extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak
and are of a black colour. the longest of these feathers is
two inches and an half, it overlays and conceals the other
which is somewhat shorter and seems to be raped in the plumage
of that in front which folding backwards colapses behind
and has a round appearance. the tail is composed of twelve
dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. the large feathers
of the wings are of a dark brown and are reather short in proportion
to the body of the bird in that rispect very similar to

our common partridge. the covert of the wings and back are
of a dove colour with a slight admixture of redish brown. a
wide stripe which extends from side to side of the body and
occupyes the lower region of the breast is beautifully variagated
with the brick red white and black which p[r]edominate in the
order they are mentioned and the colours mark the feathers
transversely. the legs are covered with feathers as low as the
knee; these feathers are of a dark brown tiped with dark
brick red as are also those between and about the joining of
the legs with the body. they have four toes on each foot of
which three are in front and that in the center the longest, those
one [on] each side nearly of a length; that behing[d] is also
of good length and are all armed with long and strong nails.
the legs and feet are white and imbrecated with proportionably
large broad scales. the upper beak is short, wide at it's base,
black, convex, curved downwards and reather obtusely pointed.
it exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a white
colour, also convex underneath and obtusely pointed. the
nostrils are remarkably small, placed far back and low down
on the sides of the beak. they are covered by a thin protuberant
elastic, black leatherlike substance. the eyes are of a
uniform piercing black colour. this is a most beautifull bird.
I preserved the skin of this bird retaining the wings feet and
head which I hope will give a just idea of the bird. it's
loud note is single and consists of a loud squall, intirely different
from the whistling of our quales or partridge. it has a
cherping note when allarmed something like ours. today there
was a second of these birds killed [by Capt C.] which precisely
resembled that just discribed. I believe these to be the male
bird the female, if so, I have not yet seen. the day has been
fair and weather extreemly pleasant. we made our men
exercise themselves in shooting today and regulate their guns
found several of them that had their sights moved by accedent,
and others that wanted some little alterations all [of] which
were compleatley rectifyed in the course of the day. in the
evening all the indians departed for their village.

[Clark:]

Monday April 7th 1806

This morning Drewyer & the two Fields set out agreeably
to their orders of last evening, the remainder of the party
employed in drying the flesh of the five Elk killed by Shannon
yesterday. which we completed and we had it secured in
dried shaved Elk Skins and put on board in readiness for our
early departure. we were visited by several parties of Indians
from a village about 12 miles above us of the Sahhalah nation.
one of them was detected in stealing a piece of Lead. I sent
him off imedeately. I hope now we have a sufficient stock
of dryed meat to serve us as far as the Chopunnish provided
we can obtain a fiew dogs, horses and roots by the way. in
the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish under the Rocky
Mountains we can precure a fiew deer, and perhaps a Bear or
two for the Mountains. The day has been fair and weather
exceedingly pleasent. we made our men exercise themselves in
shooting and regulateing their guns, found several of them
that had their Sights moved by accident, and others that wanted
some little alterations all which were compleated rectified in
the course of the day except my small rifle, which I found
wanted cutting out. about 4 oClock P M all the Indians
left us, and returned to their village. they had brought with
them wappato, & pashequa roots chapellel cakes, and a species
of raspberry for sale, none of which they disposed of as they
asked such enormous prices for those articles that we were not
able to purchase any. Drewyer returned down the river in
the evening & informed us that the nativs had sceared all the
Elk from the river above. Joseph & reuben Fields had
proceeded on further up the river in the canoe, he expected to
the village.

I provaled on an old indian to mark the Multnomah R
down on the sand which hid [he did] and perfectly corisponded
with the sketch given me by sundary others, with the addition
of a circular mountain which passes this river at the falls and
connects with the mountains of the Seacoast. he also lais
down the Clarkamos [Clackamas] passing a high conical mountain
near it's mouth on the lower Side and heads in Mount
Jefferson which he lais down by raiseing the Sand as a very

high mountain and covered with eternal snow. the high
mountain which this Indian lais down near the enterance of
Clarkamos river, we have not seen as the hills in it's direction
from this vally is high and obscures the sight of it from us.
Mt Jefferson we can plainly see from the enterance of Multnomah
from which place it bears S.E. this is a noble mountain
and I think equally as high or something higher than
Mt. St. Heleans but its distance being much greater than that
of the latter, so great a portion of it does not appear above the
range of mountains which lie between both those stupendious
mountains and the mouth of Multnomah. like Mt. St. Heleans
its figure is a regular cone and is covered with eturnial snow.
that the Clarkamos nation[9] as also those at the falls of the
Multnomah live principally on fish of which those streams
abound and also on roots which they precure on it's borders,
they also sometimes come down to the Columbia in serch of
Wappato. they build their houses in the same form with
those of the Columbian vally of wide split boa[r]ds and covered
with bark of the white cedar which is the entire length of the
one side of the roof and jut over at the eve about 18 inches.
at the distance of about 18 inches transvers sp[l]inters of dried
pine is inserted through the ceder bark in order to keep it
smooth and prevent it's edge from colapsing by the heat of the
sun; in this manner the nativs make a very secure light and
lasting roof of this bark. which we have observed in every
vilege in this vally as well as those above. this Indian also
informed me that multnomah above the falls was crouded with
rapids and thickly inhabited by indians of the Cal-lah-po-é-wah
Nation. he informed he had himself been a long way up that
river &c.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday April 8th. 1806.

The wind blew so violently this morning that we were
obliged to unlode our perogues and canoes, soon after which

they filled with water.[10] being compelled to remain during the
day at our present station we sent out some hunters in order
to add something to our stock of provisions; and exposed our
dryed meat to the sun and the smoke of small fires. in the
evening the hunters returned having killed a duck only; they
saw two bear and some of the blacktailed jumping or fallow
deer, such as are found about Fort Clatsop; this kind of deer
are scarce in this neighbourhood, the common longtailed fallow
deer being most abundant. we have seen the black bear only
in this quarter. the wind continued without intermission to
blow violently all day. I took a walk today of three miles
down the river; in the course of which I had an opportunity
to correct an errow [error] which I have heretofore made with
rispect to the shrub I have hithertoo called the large leafed
thorn. the leaf of this thorn is small being only ab[o]ut 21/2
inches long, is petiolate, conjugate; the leafets are petiolate
accutely pointed, having their margins cut with unequal angular
insissures. the shrub which I have heretofore confounded
with this grows in similar situations, has a stem precisely like
it except the thorn and bears a large three loabed leaf.[11] this
bryer is of the class Polyandria and order Polygynia. the
flowers are single, the peduncle long and celindric. the calix
is a perianth, of one leaf, five cleft & accutely pointed. the
perianth is proper, erect, inferior with rispect to both petals
and germen, and equal. the corolla consists of five accute pale
scarlet petals, insirted in the recepticle with a short and narrow
claw, the Corolla is smooth, moderately long, situated at the
base of the germen, permanent, and cup shaped. of the
stamens the filaments are subulate, inserted into the recepticle,
unequal and bent inwards concealing the pistillum; anther
two loabed and inflected situated on the top of the fillaments
of the pistillum the germ is conical, imbricated, superior, sessile
and short. the styles are short with rispect to the stamen,
capillary smooth, obtuse, distributed over the serface of the
germ and deciduous. no perseptable stigma. late at night
the centinel detected an old indian man in attempting to creep
into camp in order to pilfer; he allarmed the indian very much
by presenting his gun at him; he gave the fellow a few stripes
with a switch and sent him off. this fellow is one of a party
of six who layed incamped a few hundred yards below us, they
departed soon after this occurrence.

[Clark:]

Tuesday April 8th. 1806

This morning about day light I heard a considerable roreing
like wind at a distance and in the course of a short time wavs
rose very high which appeared to come across the river and in
the course of an hour became so high that we were obliged to
unload the canoes, at 7 oClock A.M. the winds swelded and
blew so hard and raised the waves so emensely high from the
N.E. and tossed our canoes against the shore in such a manner
as to render it necessary to haul them up on the bank. finding
from the appearance of the winds that it is probable that
we may be detained all day, we sent out Drewyer, Shannon,
Colter & Collins to hunt with derections to return if the wind
should lul, if not to continue the hunt all day except they
killed Elk or bear sooner &c. we had the dried meat which
was cured at our last encampment below exposed to the sun.
John Shields cut out my small rifle & brought hir to shoot
very well. the party ows much to the injinuity of this man,
by whome their guns are repared when they get out of order
which is very often. I observed an Indian woman who visited
us yesterday blind of an eye, and a man who was nearly blind
of both eyes. the loss of sight I have observed to be more
common among all the nations inhabiting this river than among
any people I ever observed. they have almost invariably sore
eyes at all stages of life. the loss of an eye is very common
among them; blindness in persons of middle age is by no
means uncommon, and it is almost invariably a concammitant
of old age. I know not to what cause to attribute this prevalent
deficientcy of the eye except it be their exposure to the

reflection of the sun on the water to which they are constantly
exposed in the occupation of fishing. about 1 P M Collins
Shannon and Colter returned. Collins saw 2 bear but could
not get a shot at them. neither Shannon nor Colter saw anything
worth shooting. Soon after Drewyer returned haveing
only a Summer Duck. the Elk is gone to the mountains
as the hunters Suppose. in the evening late an old man his
Son & Grand Son and their wives &c. came down dureing the
time the waves raged with great fury. the wife of the grandson
is a woman of differant appearance from any we have seen
on this river, [s]he has a very round head and pierceing black
eyes. Soon after those people arived the old man was detected
in stealing a spoon and he was ordered away, at about
200 yards below our camp they built themselves a fire and did
not return to our fires after. The wind continued violently
hard all day, and threw our canoes with such force against the
shore that one of them split before we could get it out

[Lewis:]

Wednesday April 9th. 1806.

This morning early we commenced the operation of reloading
our canoes; at 7 A.M. we departed and proceeded on to the
Camp of Reubin and Joseph Fields they had not killed any
game; we made no halt at this place but continued our rout
to the Wah-clel-lah Village which is situated on the North side
of the river about a mile below the beacon rock; here we
halted and took breakfast. John Colter one of our party
observed the tomehawk in one of the lodges which had been
stolen from us on the 4th of November last as we decended
this river; the natives attempted to wrest the tomahawk from
him but he retained it. they indeavoured afterwards to exculpate
themselves from the odium of having stolen it, they
alledged that they had bought it from the natives below; but
their neighbours had several days previously, informed us that
these people had stolen the Tommehawk and then had it at
their village. this village appears to be the winter station of
the Wah-clel-lahs and Clahclellars,[12] the greater part of the

former have lately removed to the falls of the Multnomah,
and the latter have established themselves a few miles above
on the North side of the river opposite the lower point of
brant island, being the commencement of the rapids, here they
also take their salmon; they are now in the act of removing,
and not only take with them their furniture and effects but
also the bark and most of the boards which formed their
houses 14 houses remain entire but are at this time but
thinly inhabited, nine others appear to have been lately removed,
and the traces of ten or twelve others of ancient date
were to be seen in the rear of their present village. they
sometimes sink their houses in the earth, and at other times
have their floors level with the surface of the earth; they are
generally built with boards and covered with Cedar bark.
most of them have a devision in their houses near the entrance
w[h]ich is at the end or in the event of it's b[e]ing a double
house is from the center of a narrow passage. several families
inhabit one appartment. the women of these people pierce
the cartelage of the nose in which they wear various ornaments
in other rispects they do not differ from those in the neighbourhood
of the Diamond island, tho' most of the women brad
their hair which hanges in two tresses one hanging over each
ear. these people were very unfriendly, and seemed illy disposed
had our numbers not detered them [from] any acts of
violence, with some difficulty we obtained five dogs from
them and a few wappetoe. on our way to this village we
passed several beautifull cascades[13] which fell from a great hight
over the stupendious rocks which closes the river on both
sides nearly, except a small bottom on the South side in which
our hunters were encamped. the most remarkable of these
casscades falls about 300 feet perpendicularly over a solid rock
into a narrow bottom of the river on the south side. it is a
large creek, situated about 5 miles above our encampment
of the last evening. several small streams fall from a much
greater hight, and in their decent become a perfect mist which
collecting on the rocks below again become visible and decend
a second time in the same manner before they reach the base
of the rocks, the hills have now become mountains high on
each side are rocky steep and covered generally with fir and
white cedar. we saw some turkey buzzards this morning of
the speceis common to the United states which are the first we
have seen on this side the rocky mountains. during our halt
at this village the grand Cheif and two inferior Cheifs of the
Chil-luck-kit-te-quaw nation arrived with several men and
women of their nation in two large canoes. these people were
on their return up the river, having been on a trading voyage
to the Columbean vally, and were loaded with wappetoe dryed
anchovies, with some beads &c. which they had received in
exchange for dryed and pounded salmon shappelell beargrass
&c. These people had been very kind to us as we decended
the river we therefore smoked with them and treated them
with every attention, at 2 P.M. we renewed our voyage;
passed under the beacon rock on the north side, to the left
of two small islands situated near the shore. at four P.M. we
arrived at the Clah-clel-lah village; here we found the natives
busily engaged in erecting their new habitations, which appear
to be reather of a temperary kind; it is most probable that
they only reside here during the salmon season. we purchased
two dogs of these people who like those of the village b[e]low
were but sulky and illy disposed; they are great rogues and
we are obliged to keep them at a proper distance from our
baggage, as we could not ascend the rapid by the North side
of the river with our large canoes, we passed to the opposite
side and entered the narrow channel which seperates brant
Island from the South shore; the evening being far spent and
the wind high raining and very cold we thought best not to
attempt the rapids this evening, we therefore sought a safe
harbour in this narrow channel and encamped on the main
shore. our small canoe with Drewer and the two feildses was
unable to pass the river with us in consequence of the waves
they therefore toed her up along the N. side of the river and
encamped opposite the upper point of brant Island. after
halting this evening I took a turn with my gun in order to
kill a deer, but was unsuccessfull. I saw much fresh sign,
the fir has been lately injured by a fire near this place and
many of them have discharged considerable quantities of rozin.
we directed that Collins should hunt a few hours tomorrow
morning and that Gibson and his crew should remain at this
place untill we returned and employ themselves in collecting
rozin which our canoes are now in want of.

[Clark:]

Wednesday April 9th. 1806

last night at a late hour the old amsiated [emaciated?] Indian
who was detected in stealing a Spoon yesterday, crept upon his
belley with his hands and feet, with a view as I suppose to
take some of our baggage which was in several defferent parcels
on the bank, the Sentinal observed the motions of this old
amcinated retch untill he got with[in] a fiew feet of the baggage
at [that] he hailed him and approached with his gun in a
possion [position] as if going to shoote which allarmed the old
retch in such a manner that he ran with all his powers tumbleing
over brush and every thing in his way. at 7 A. M. we
set out and proceeded on to the camp of Joseph & Reubin
Fields, they had killed nothing, here we did not delay but
proceeded on to Wah-clel-lah Village on the North side and
brackfast here one of the men Colter observed the Toma-hawk
which was stolen from [me] on the 4th. of Novr. last as
we decended the Columbia, he took the tomahawk the
natives attempted to wrest it from him, he held fast the Tomahawk.
Those people attempted to excuse themselves from
odium of stealing it, by makeing signs that they had purchased
the Tomahawk, but their n[e]ighbours informed me otherwise
and made signs that they had taken it. This village appears
to be the wintering station of two bands of the Shah-ha-la
Nation. One band has already moved [to] the Falls of the
Multnomah which is the place they take their Salmon. The
other band is now moveing a fiew miles above to the foot of
the first rapid on this river, at which place they take their

salmon. 14 houses only appear occupied and the inhabitants
of those moveing off hourly, they take with them in their
canoes independent of all their household effects the bark of
their houses, and boards. 9 houses has been latterly abandened
and 14 others is yet thinly inhabited at present, and the remains
of 10 or 12 others are to be seen and appears to have been
enhabited last fall. those people were not hospita[b]l[e] and
with some dificuelty we precured 5 dogs and a fiew Wappato
of them, soon after we arived at this village the Grand Chief
and two others of the Chee-luck-kit-le-quaw Nation arived from
below. they had with them 11 men and 7 womin and had
been trading in the Columbia Vally for Wappato, beeds and
dried anchovies &c. in exchange for which they had given
pounded fish shappalell, beargrass, acorns boiled berries &c. &c.
and are now on their return to their village. as those people
had been very kind to us as we decended the river we gave
them smoke. at 2 oClock P. M. we set out and passed under
the Beacon rock on the North Side of two small Islds. situated
nearest the N. side. at 4 P. M. we arived at the first rapid at
the head of Strawberry island at which place on the N W. Side
of the Columbia here we found the nativs from the last village
rebuilding their habitations of the bark of their old village
16 Huts are already compleated and appear only temporrary
it is most probable that they only reside here dureing the
season of the Salmon. as we could not pass with the large
canoes up the N.W. Side for the rocks, the wind high and a
rainey disagreeable evining. our smallest canoe being too low
to cross through the high waves, we sent her up on the N W.
Side with Drewyer and the two Fields and after purchaseing
2 dogs crossed and into the sluce of a large high Island
seperated from the S.E. Side by a narrow chanel. in this
chanel we found a good harbor and encamped on the lower
side. we saw some deer sign and [sent] Collins to hunt in
the morning untill the canoes were toed above the rapid.
made 16 miles to day. evening wet & disagreeable

[Lewis:]

Thursday April 10th. 1806.

We set out early and droped down the channel to the lower
end of brant Island from whence we drew them up the rapid
by a cord about a quarter of a mile which we soon performed;
Collins and Gibson not having yet come over we directed
Sergt Pryor to remain with the cord on the Island untill Gibson
arrived and assist him with his crew in geting his canoe up
the rapid, when they were to join us on the oposite side at a
small village of six houses of the Clah-clah′-lahs where we
halted for breakfast. in passing the river which is here about
400 yds. wide the rapidity of the currant was such that it boar
us down a considerable distance notwithstanding we employed
five oars. on entering one of these lodges, the natives offered
us a sheepskin for sail, than which nothing could have been
more acceptable except the animal itself. the skin of the head
of the sheep with the horns remaining was cased in such manner
as to fit the head of a man by whom it was woarn and
highly prized as an ornament. we obtained this cap in exchange
for a knife, and were compelled to give two Elkskins
in exchange for the skin. this appeared to be the skin of a
sheep not fully grown; the horns were about four inches long,
celindric, smooth, black, erect and pointed; they rise from the
middle of the forehead a little above the eyes, they offered
us a second skin of a full grown sheep which was quite as large
as that of a common deer. they discovered our anxity to purchase
and in order to extort a great price declared that they
prized it too much to dispose of it. in expectation of finding
some others of a similar kind for sale among the natives of
this neighbourhood I would not offer him a greater price than
had been given for the other which he refused. these people
informed us that these sheep were found in great abundance on
the hights and among the clifts of the adjacent mountains.
and that they had lately killed these two from a herd of 36, at
no great distance from their village. we could obtain no provision
from those people except four white salmon trout. at ten
oclock Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with Collins who had
killed 3 deer. these were all of the blacktailed fallow kind.
we set out and continued our rout up the N. side of the river

with great difficulty in consequence of the rapidity of the current
and the large rocks which form this shore; the South side
of the river is impassable.[14] as we had but one sufficient toe-rope
and were obliged to employ the cord in geting on our canoes
the greater part of the way we could only take them one at
a time which retarded our progress very much. by evening
we arrived at the portage on the North side where we landed
and conveyed our bagage to the top of the hill about 200
paces distant where we formed a camp. we had the canoes
drawn on shore and secured. the small canoe got loose from
the hunters and went a drift with a tin vessel and tommahawk
in her; the Indians caught her at the last village and brought
her up to us this evening for which service we gave them a
couple of knives; the canoe overset and lost the articles which
were in her. saw the white pine at this place.

[Clark:]

Thursday April 10th. 1806

Collins went out in the bottom to hunt agreeable to the
order of last evening and gibsons crew was derected to delay
for Collins dureing which time they were derected to collect
rozin from the pines in the bottom near our camp at 6 A M
we set out and proceeded to the lower point of the Island from
whence we were compelled to draw our canoes up a rapid for
about 1/4 mile which we soon performed. Collins & gibson
haveing not yet come over we derected Serjt. Pryor to delay on
the Island untill Gibson come over & assist him with the large
toe roap which we also left and to join us at a village of four
houses of the Clah-lah-lar Tribe which is opposit to this
Island on North Side at which place we intend to brackfast.
in crossing the river which at this place is not more than 400
yards wide we fell down a great distance owing to the rapidity

of the current. I entered one of the houses of those people
and was scercely seated before they offered me a sheep skin for
sale nothing could be more acceptable except the animal
itself in examoning this skin I found it was a young one, the
skin of the head was cased so as to fit the head of a man and
was esteemed as a great orniment and highly prised by them.
we precured this cased head for a knife and the skin we were
obliged to give two raw Elk skins for. Soon after they offered
a large one for sale. after finding us anxious to purchase they
declined selling this skin. those people informed us that they
killed those animals among the rocks in the mountains under
which they live; and that great numbers of those animals
inhabit those mountains & that the lamb was killed out of a
gange of 36 at a short distance from their village. The wool
of the full grown sheep, or that on the skin which we saw
was much corser than that of the one which we purchased.
the skin was about the size of that of a common deer.
The skin we obtained appeared to be the skin of a sheep
not fully grown, the wool fine, the Horns were abought 4
inches long, celindric, smooth, black, a little bending backwards
and pointed; they rise from the middle of the forehard,
and a little above the eyes, and appeared to possess all the
marks of the common sheep as already discribed. we could precure
no provisions from those people except four white Salmon
trout. at 10 oClock Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with
Collins who had killed 3 deer. these were all of the blacktailed
fallow kind. We set out and continued up on the N.
Side of the river which great dificuelty in consequence of the
rapidity of the current and the large rocks which forms this
shore; the South Side of the river is impassable. As we had
but one sufficent toe roap and were obliged to employ the
cord in getting on our canoes the greater part of the way we
could only take them one at a time which retarded our progress
very much, by evening we arived at the portage on the N.
Side where we landed and conveyed our baggage to the top of
the hill about 200 paces distant where we formed a camp. We
had the canoes drawn on shore and secured. the small canoe
got loose from the hunters and went adrift with a tin cup &
a tomahawk in her; the Indians caught her at the last village
and brought her up to us this evening for which we gave them
two knives; the canoe overset and lost the articles which were
in her.

[Lewis:]

Friday April 11th. 1806.

As the tents and skins which covered both our men and
baggage were wet with the rain which fell last evening, and as
it continued still raining this morning we concluded to take
our canoes first to the head of the rapids, hoping that by evening
the rain would cease and afford us a fair afternoon to take
our baggage over the portage. this portage is two thousand
eight hundred yards along a narrow rough and slipery road.[15]
the duty of getting the canoes above the rapid was by mutual
consent confided to my friend Capt. C. who took with him for
that purpose all the party except Bratton who is yet so weak
he is unable to work, three others who were lamed by various
accedents and one other to cook for the party. a few men
were absolutely necessary at any rate to guard our baggage
from the War-clel-lars who crouded about our camp in considerable
numbers. these are the greates[t] theives and scoundrels
we have met with. by the evening Capt. C. took 4 of
our canoes above the rapids tho' with much difficulty and
labour. the canoes were much damaged by being driven
against the rocks in dispite of every precaution which could be
taken to prevent t. the men complained of being so much
fatiegued in the evening that we posponed taking up our 5th.
canoe untill tomorrow. these rapids are much worse than
they were [in the] fall when we passed them,[16] at that time

there were only three difficult points within seven miles, at
present the whole distance is extreemly difficult of ascent, and
it would be impracticable to decend except by leting down the
empty vessels by a cord and then even the wrisk would be
greater than in taking them up by the same means. the water
appears to be (considerably) upwards of 20 feet higher than
when we decended the river. the distance by way of the
river between the points of the portage is 3 Ms. many of the
natives crouded about the bank of the river where the men
were engaged in taking up the canoes; one of them had the
insolence to cast stones down the bank at two of the men who
happened to be a little detatched from the party at the time.
on the return of the party in the evening from the head of
the rapids they met with many of the natives on the road, who
seemed but illy disposed; two of these fellows met with John
Sheilds who had delayed some time in purchasing a dog and
was a considerable distance behind the party on their return
with Capt. C. they attempted to take the dog from him and
pushed him out of the road. he had nothing to defend himself
with except a large knife which he drew with an intention
of puting one or both of them to death before they could get
themselves in readiness to use their arrows, but discovering his
design they declined the combat and instantly fled through the
woods. three of this same tribe of villains the Wah-clel-lars,
stole my dog this evening, and took him towards their village;
I was shortly afterwards informed of this transaction by an
indian who spoke the Clatsop language, (some of which we had
learnt from them during the winter) and sent three men in pursuit
of the theives with orders if they made the least resistence or
difficulty in surrendering the dog to fire on them; they overtook
these fellows or reather came within sight of them at the distance
of about 2 miles; the indians discovering the party In
pursuit of them left the dog and fled. they also stole an ax
from us, but scarcely had it in their possession before
Thompson detected them and wrest[ed] it from them. we
ordered the centinel to keep them out of camp, and informed
them by signs that if they made any further attempts to steal
our property or insulted our men we should put them to
instant death.[17] a cheif of the Clah-clel-lah tribe informed us
that there were two very bad men among the Wah-clel-lahs
who had been the principal actors in these seenes of outradge
of which we complained, and that it was not the wish of the
nation by any means to displease us. we told him that we
hoped it might be the case, but we should certainly be as good
as our words if they persisted in their insolence. I am convinced
that no other consideration but our number at this
moment protects us. The Cheif appeared mortified at the
conduct of his people, and seemed friendly disposed towards
us. as he appeared to be a man of consideration and we had
reason to beleive much rispected by the neighbouring tribes
we thought it well to bestoe a medal of small size upon him.
he appeared much gratifyed with this mark of distinction, and
some little attention which we showed him. he had in his
possession a very good pipe tomahawk which he informed us
he had received as a present from a trader who visited him last
winter over land pointing to the N.W., whome he called
Swippeton; he was pleased with the tommahawk of Capt. C.
in consequence of it's having a brass bowl and Capt. C. gratified
him by an exchange. as a further proof of his being esteemed
by this white trader, he gave us a well baked Saylor's bisquit
which he also informed us he had received from Swippeton.
from these evidences I have no doubt but the traders who
winter in some of the inlets to the N. of us visit this part of
the Columbia by land at certain seasons, most probably when
they are confined to their winter harbour, and if so some of
those inlets are probably at no great distance from this place,
as there seems to be but little inducement to intice the trader
hither from any considerable distance particularly as the difficulty
in traveling on the borders of this mountainous country
must be great at that season as the natives informed me their
snows were frequently breast deep. I observe snow-shoes in
all the lodges of the natives above the Columbean vally. I
hope that the friendly interposition of this chief may prevent
our being compelled to use some violence with these people;
our men seem well disposed to kill a few of them. we keep
ourselves perefectly on our guard. This evening we send
Drewyer and the two Feildses on a few miles up the river to
the entrance of Cruzatt's river to hunt untill our arrival.
The inhabitants of the Y-eh-huh Village on the North side
immediately above the rapids have lately removed to the
opposite side of the river, where it appears they usually take
their salmon. like their relations the Wah-Clel-lars they have
taken their houses with them. I observe that all the houses
lately established have their floors on the surface of the ear[th],
are smaller and of more temperary structure than those which
are sunk in the ground. I presume the former are their
spring and Summer dwellings and the latter those of the fall
and winter. these houses are most generally built with boards
and covered with bark. some of an inferior ore more temperary
cast are built entirely of cedar bark, which is kept smooth
and extended by inserting small splinters of wood through the
bark crosswise at the distance of 12 or 14 inches assunder.
several families inhabit the same appartment. their women as
well as those of the 3 villages next below us pierce the cartelage
of the nose and insert various ornaments. they very seldom
imprint any figures on their skins; a few I observed had one or
two longitudinal lines of dots on the front of the leg, reaching
from the ankle upwards about midleg. most of their women
braid their hair in two tresses as before mentioned. the men
usually cew their hair in two parsels which like the braded
tresses of the female hang over each ear in front of the sholder,
and gives an additional width to the head and face so much
admired by them. these cews are usually formed with throngs
of dressed Otterskin crossing each other and not roled in our
manner arrond the hair. in all other rispects I observe no
difference in their dress habits manners &c. from those in the
Neighbourhood of the diamond Island. today we recognized
a man of the Elute nation who reside at the long narrows of
the Columbia, he was on his return from a trading voyage to
the Columbean valley with 10 or 12 others of his nation.
many other natives from the village above were employed in
taking their roots &c. over the portage on their return. I
observed that the men equally with the women engage in the
labour of carrying. they all left their canoes below the rapids
and took others above which they had left as they decended.
those which were left below were taken down the river by the
persons from whom they had been hired or borrowed. the
natives from above behaved themselves in a very orderly
manner. The salmon have not yet made their appearance,
tho' the natives are not so much distressed for food as I was
induced to believe. I walked down today about 3/4 of a mile
below our encampment to observe the manner in which these
people inter their dead. I found eight sepulchers near the
north bank of the river built in the following manner. four
strong forks are first sunk several feet in the ground and rise
about six feet high, forming a parrallelogram of 8 by 10 feet.
the intervals between these upright forks, on which four poles
are laid, are filled up with broad erect boards with their lower
ends sunk in the ground and their upper ends confined to the
horizontal poles, a flat roof is formed of several layers of
boards; the floors of these sepulchres are on a level with the
surface of the earth. the human bodies are well rolled in
dressed skins and lashed securely with chords and laid horizontaly
on the back with the head to the west, in some of these
sepulchres they are laid on each other to the debth of three or
four bodies, in one of those sepulchres which was nearly
decayed I observed that the human bones filled it perfectly to
the hight of about three feet. many articles appear to be
sacrificed to the dead both within and without the sepulcres.
among other articles, I observed a brass teakettle, some scollep
shells, parts of several robes of cloth and skins, with sticks for
diging roots &c. this appears to be the burying ground of
the Wahclellahs, Clahclellahs and Yehhuhs.

[Clark:]

Friday April 11th. 1806.

rained the greater part of the last night and continued to
rain this morning, as the skins and the covering of both the

mend [men] and loading were wet we determined to take the
canoes over first in hopes that by the evening the rain would
sease and afford us a fair afternoon to carry our baggage over
the portage which is 2 miles by land and a slipery road. I
therefore took all the men except three who had sore feet and
two to cook, and who were with the baggage; and with great
dificuelty and much fatigue we drew up 4 of our canoes above
the Rapids 3 miles in extent. the men became so fatigued
that we deturmined to puspone takeing the 5th. canoe untill
tomorrow. Those rapids are much worse than they were at
the time we passed last fall at that time there was only three
bad places in the distance of 7 miles. at this time the whole
distance is a rapid and dificuelt of assent; and would be very
dangerous at this stage of the water (which is [blank space in
MS.] feet higher than when we passed down) to decent in any
kind of craft. Great numbers of the nativs visited us and
viewed us from the banks as we passed on with the canoes,
maney of those people were also about our baggage and on
the portage road. two of those fellows insulted John Shields
who had delayed in purchaseing a dog at the upper part of the
rapids and was some distance behind myself and the party on
our return to camp. they attempted to take his dog and push
him out of the road. he had nothing to defend himself except
a large knife which he drew with a full deturmmation to pit
[put] one of them to death before he had an oppertunity of
dischargeing his arrow. the nativs observeing his motion ran
off. one other Indn. stold an ax and was not in possession
before he was detected by Thompson and the ax taken from
him. one other fellow attempted to steal Capt. Lewis's dog,
and had decoyed him nearly half a mile we were informed of
it by a man who spoke the Clatsop language and imediately
sent three men with their guns who over took the Indians,
who on their approach ran off and left the dog. we informed
the nativ's by signs that if the indians insulted our men or
stold our property we should certainly put them to death a
Chief of the Clah-clal-lahs Tribe informed us that there was
two very bad men who had been guilty of those mischevious
acts. that it was not the wish of their tribe that any thing
should be done which might displese the white people. this
Chief had a large fine pipe tomahawk which he informed me
he got from a Trader he called Swippeton. I exchanged
tomahawks with this Chief, and as he appeared to be a man
of consideration among the tribes of this neighbourhood and
much conserned for the ingiries offered us, we gave him a
medal of the small size which appeared to please him verry
much, and will I hope have a favourable tendency, in as much
as it will attach him to our interest, and he probably will
harang his people in our favour, which may prevent any acts
of violence being commited, on either side. nothing but the
strength of our party has prevented our being robed before
this time. Sent Drewyer & 2 Fields on a head to hunt. The
inhabitents of the Wy-ach-hich Tribe village imedeately above
those rapids on the N W. Side have latterly moved their
village to the opposit side of the river, where they take their
Salmon; they are now in the act of removeing and not only
take their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of
the boards which formed their houses. Those like the tribes
below sometimes sink their houses in the earth, and at other
times have their flours leavel with the surface of the earth;
they are Generally built of boards and covered with bark.
those which appear intended for temporary use are most generally
built of the white cedar bark. Most of those have a
division in the houses near the enterance which is at the end,
or in the event of it's being a double house is from the center
of a narrow passage. Several families enhabit one appartment.
the women of those people as well as those in the 3 villages
below pierce the cartilage of the nose in which they ware
various orniments. in other respects they do not differ from
those of the Dimond Island, tho' most of the women brad
their hair which hangs in two tresses, one hanging over each
ear. The young men of all those tribes ware their hair plated,
in two plats [h]anging over each sholder, maney of them
also cew their hair with otter skin divided on the crown of the
head and hanging over each ear. to day I recognized a man
of the Elute nation who reside at the great Long narrows, he
was on his return from a tradeing voyage to the Columbian
Vally with 10 or 12 of his tribe. maney others from the
villages above this were takeing their roots &c. over the portage
to day on their return home. vegitation is rapidly progressing.
sarvis berry, sackacommis and the large leafed ash is in blume.
also fir No. [blank space in MS.] in bloom

[Lewis:]

Saturday April 12th. 1806.

It rained the greater part of last night and still continued to
rain this morning. I therefore determined to take up the
remaining perogue this morning for which purpose I took with
me every man that could be of any service. a small distance
above our camp there is one of the most difficult parts of the
rapid. at this place the current sets with great violence against
a projecting rock. in hawling the perogue arround this point
the bow unfortunately took the current at too great a distance
from the rock, she turned her side to the stream and the
utmost exertions of all the party were unable to resist the forse
with which she was driven by the current, they were compelled
to let loose the cord and of course both perogue and cord went
adrift with the stream. the loss of this perogue will I fear
compell us to purchase one or more canoes of the indians at
an extravegant price. after breakfast all hands were employed
in taking our baggage over the portage. we caused all the
men who had short rifles to carry them, in order to be prepared
for the natives should they make any attempts to rob
or injure them. I went up to the head of the rapids and left
Capt. C. below. during the day I obtained a vocabulary of
the language of the War-clel-lars &c. I found that their
numbers were precisely those of the Chinnooks but the other
parts of their language essentially different. by 5 P.M. we
had brought up all our baggage and Capt. C. joined me from
the lower camp with the Clahclellah cheif. there is an old
village situated about halfway on the portage road; the fraim
of the houses, which are remarkably large, [one 160 by 45 feet,]
remain almost entire. the covering of the houses appears to
have been sunk in a pond back of the village. this the chief
informed us was the residence occasionally of his tribe. these

houses are fraimed in the usual manner but consist of a double
set as if oune house had been built within the other. the
floors are on a level with the ground. the natives did not
croud about us in such numbers today as yesterday, and
behaved themselves much better; no doubt the precautions
which they observed us take had a good effect. I employed
Sergt. Pryor the greater part of the day in reparing and corking
the perogue and canoes. it continued to rain by showers all
day. about 20 of the Y-eh-huhs remained with me the greater
part of the day and departed in the evening. they conducted
themselves with much propryety and contemned the conduct
of their relations towards us. We purchased one sheepskin
for which we gave the skin of an Elk and one of a deer. this
animal was killed by the man who sold us the skin near this
place; he informed us that they were abundant among the
mountains and usually resorted [to] the rocky parts. the big
horned animal is also an inhabitant of these mountains. I saw
several robes of their skins among the natives, as the evening
was rainy cold and far advanced and ourselves wet we determined
to remain all night. the mountains are high steep and rocky.
the rock is principally black. they are covered with fir of
several speceis and the white cedar. near the river we find the
Cottonwood, sweet willow, broad leafed ash, a species of maple,
the purple haw, a small speceis of cherry; purple currant,
goosberry, red willow, vining and whiteburry honeysuckle,
huckleburry,. sacacommis, two speceis of mountain holley, &
common ash.[18] for the three last days this inclusive we have
made only 7 miles.

[Clark:]

Saturday April 12th. 1806.

rained the greater part of the last night and this morning
untill 10 A.M. we employed all hands in attempting to take
up the last canoe. in attempting to pass by a rock against

which the current run with emence force, the bow unfortunately
took the current at too great a distance from the rock, she
turned broad side to the stream, and the exertions of every
man was not sufficient to hold her. the men were compelled
to let go the rope and both the canoe and rope went with the
stream. the loss of this canoe will I fear compell us to purchase
another at an extravigent price. after brackfast all hands
who were employed in carrying the baggage over the portage
11/2 miles which they performed by 4 P.M. the nativs did not
visit us in such crowds to day as yesterday, we caused all the
men of the party who had Short guns to carry them on the
portage for fear of some attempt on the part of the nativs to
rob the party. The rain continued at intervales all day. in
the evening after everything was taken from the lower camp
I set out myself accompanied by the Chief of the Clah-clal-lars
to the head of the portage, as we passed the remains of an
old village about half way the portage, this chief informed me
that this old village had been the residence of his Tribe dureing
the last Salmon Season. this village I mentioned in decending
this river, but did not know the Tribe that had
inhabited it that time. Capt. Lewis took a vocabulary of the
langu[a]ge of those people whilst I had all the baggage taken
across the portage & we formed a camp at the place we had
encamped on our way down. at my arival at the head of the
portage found about 20 of the natives of the Wy-ach-hich tribe
who reside above the rapids, with Capt. Lewis. those people
appeared much better disposed towards us than either the
Clahclallah or Wahclellah and condemn their conduct much.
Those tribes I believe to be all the same Nation their Language
habits manners dress &c. are presisely alike and differ
but little from those below the Great Narrows of this river.
I observed a woman with a Sheep Skin robe on which I purchased
for one Elk and one deer skin. the father of this
woman informed me that he had killed the animal off of which
he had taken this skin on the mountains imediately above his
village, and that on those mountains great numbers of those
animals were to be found in large flocks among the steep rocks.
I also purchased 2 pieces of Chapellell and some roots of those
people. as the evening was rainey and ourselves and party
wet we concluded to delay untill the morning and dry our
selves. The Indians left us about 6 PM and returned to their
village on the opposit side. Mountains are high on each side
and covered with snow for about 1/3 of the way down. the
growth is principally fir and white cedar. the bottoms and
low situations is covered with a variety such as cotton, large
leafed ash, sweet willow a species of beech, alder, white thorn,
cherry of a small species, Servis berry bushes, Huckleberries
bushes, a species of Lorel &c. &c. I saw a turkey buzzard
which is the 3rd. which I have seen west of the rocky mountains.
the 1st. was on the 7 instt. above quick sand river. for the three
last days this inclusive we have made 7 miles only.

[Lewis:]

Sunday April 13th. 1806.

The loss of one of our perogues rendered it necessary to
distribute her crew and cargo among the 2 remaining perogues
and 2 canoes, which being done we loaded and set out [at]
8 A.M. we passed the village immediately above the rapids
where only one house at present remains entire, the other 8
having been taken down and removed to the oposite side of
the river as before mentioned. we found the additional laiding
which we had been compelled to put on board rendered
our vessels extreemly inconvenient to mannage and in short
reather unsafe in the event of high winds; I therefore left
Capt. C. with the two perogues to proceede up the river on
the N. side, and with the two canoes and some additional
hands passed over the river above the rapids to the Y-eh-huh
village in order to purchase one or more canoes. I found the
village consisting of 11 houses crouded with inhabitants; it
appeared to me that they could have mustered about 60 fighting
men then present. they appeared very friendly disposed,
and I soon obtained two small canoes from them for which
I gave two robes and four elkskins. I also purchased four
paddles and three dogs from them with deerskins. the dog
now constitutes a considerable part of our subsistence and with
most of the party has become a favorite food; certain I am

that it is a healthy strong diet, and from habit it has become
by no means disagreeable to me, I prefer it to lean venison or
Elk, and it is very far superior to the horse in any state. after
remaining about 2 hours at this Village I departed and continued
my rout with the four canoes along the S. side of the
river the wind being too high to pass over to the entrance of
Cruzatts [Wind] river where I expected to have overtaken
Capt. C. not seing the perogues on the opposite side I
ascended the river untill one oclock or about 5 ms. above the
entrance of Cruzat's river. being convinced that the perogues
were behind I halted and directed the men to dress the dogs
and cook one of them for dinner; a little before we had completed
our meal Capt. C. arrived with the perogues and landed
opposite to us. after dinner I passed the river to the perogues
and found that Capt. C. had halted for the evening and
was himself hunting with three of the party. the men informed
me that they had seen nothing of the hunters whom
we had sent on the 11th ints. to the Entrance of Cruzatt's Riv.
I directed Sergt. ordway to take the two small canoes for his
mess and the loading which he had formerly carried in the
perogue we lost yesterday, and to have them dryed this evening
and payed with rozin. Capt. Clark returned in about an
hour and being convinced that the hunters were yet behind
we dispatched Sergt. Pryor in surch of them with two men and
an empty canoe to bring the meat they may have killed.
John Sheilds returned a little after six P.M. with two deer
which he had killed. these were also of the blacktailed fallow
deer; there appears to be no other speceis of deer in these
mountains. Capt. C. informed me that the wind had detained
him several hours a little above Cruzatt's river; that while
detained here he sent out some men to hunt; one of them
wounded two deer but got neither of them. the wind having
lulled in the evening and not seing anything of Drewyer and
the Feildses he had proceeded on to this place where he intended
waiting for me, and as he did not see my canoes when
he landed had taken a hunt with some of the men as before
mentioned.

[Clark:]

Sunday April 13th 1806

The loss of one of our large canoes rendered it necessary to
divide the loading and men of that canoe between the remaining
four, which was done and we loaded and set out at 8 oClock
A.M. passed the village imediately above the rapids, where
only one house remains entire the other 8 haveing been taken
down and moved to the opposit side of the Columbia as
already mentioned. the additional men and baggage in each
canoe renders them crouded and unsafe. Capt. Lewis with 2
of the smallest canoes of Sergt. Pryor & gibson and crossed
above the Rapids to the village on the S E side with a view to
purchase a canoe of the nativs if possible. he took with him
some cloth and a fiew Elk skins and Deer skins. I with the
two large canoes proceede on up the N. W. Side with the intention
of gitting to the Encampment of our hunters who was
directed to hunt in the bottom above Crusats River, and there
wait the arrival of Capt. Lewis. I proceeded on to the bottom
in which I expected to find the hunters but could see nothing
of them. the wind rose and raised the wavs to such a hight
that I could not proceed any further. we landed and I sent
out Shields and Colter to hunt, Shields shot two deer but
could get neither of them. I walked to Crusats river and up
it 1/2 a mile on my return to the party found that the wind
had lulled and as we could see nothing of our hunters, I
determined to proceed on to the next bottom where I thought
it probable they had halted at 1/2 passed 2 P M set out and
proceeded on to the bottom 6 miles and halted at the next
bottom formed a camp and sent out all the hunters. I also
walked out my self on the hills but saw nothing, on my
return found Capt. Lewis at camp with two canoes which he
had purchased at the Y-ep-huh village for two robes and four
elkskins. he also purchased 4 paddles and three Dogs from
the nativs with deer skins, the dogs now constitutes a considerable
part of our Subsistance & with most of the party has
become a favourable food. Certain I am that [it] is a helthy
strong diet, derected Serjt. ordway to take the 2 small canoes
purchased by Capt. Lewis for his mess and the loading he had
in his canoe which we lost yesterday, and drawed up and paid

with rozin. I was convinced that the hunters must have been
up River Cruzatt. despatched Sergt. Pryor with 2 men in a
canoe, with directions to assend crusats river and if he found
the hunters to assist them in with the meat. Jo: Shields returned
about sunset with two deer which he had killed, those
were of the Black tail fallow Deer. there appears to be no
other species of Deer in those mountains. we proceeded on
12 miles.

[Lewis:]

Monday April 14th. 1806.

This morning at seven OCk. we were joined by Sergt. Pryor
and the three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which
Drewyer had killed yesterday, we took breakfast and departed.
at 9 A.M. the wind arrose and continued hard all day but not
so violent as to prevent our proceeding, we kept close along
the N. shore all day. the river from the rapids as high as the
commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile in
width, and possesses scarcely any current. the bed is principally
rock except at the entrance of Labuish's river which
heads in Mount hood and like the quicksand river brings
down from thence vast bodies of sand, the mountains through
which the river passes nearly to the sepulchre rock, are high
broken, rocky, partially covered with fir white cedar, and in
many places exhibit very romantic seenes. some handsome
cascades are seen on either hand tumbling from the stupendious
rocks of the mountains into the river. near the border of the
river I observed today the long leafed pine, this pine increases
in quantity as you ascend the river and about the sepulchre
rock where the lower country commences it superceedes the
fir altogether. throughout the whole course of this river from
the rapids as high as the Chilluckkittequaws, we find the
trunks of many large pine trees s[t]anding erect as they grew
at present in 30 feet [of] water; they are much doated and
none of them vegetating; at the lowest tide of the river many
of these trees are in ten feet water. certain it is that those
large pine trees never grew in that position, nor can I account
for this phenomenon except it be that the passage of the river

through the narrow pass at the rapids has been obstructed by
the rocks which have fallen from the hills into that channel
within the last 20 years; the appearance of the hills at that
place justify this opinion, they appear constantly to be falling
in, and the apparent state of the decayed trees would seem to
fix the era of their decline about the time mentioned. at
1 P.M. we arrived at a large village situated in a narrow
bottom on the N. side a little above the entrance of canoe
creek. their houses are reather detatched and extent[d] for
several miles. they are about 20 in number. These people
call themselves We-ock-sock, Wil-la-cum. they differ but
litt[l]e in appea[ra]nce dress &c. from those of the rapids.
Their men have some leging and mockersons among them.
these are in the stile of [the] Chopunnish. they have some
good horses of which we saw ten or a douzen. these are the
fi[r]st horses we have met with since we left this neighbourhood
last fall, in short the country below this place will not
permit the uce of this valuable animal except in the Columbian
vally and there the present inhabitants have no uce for them
as they reside immediately on the river and the country is too
thickly timbered to admit them to run the game with horses
if they had them. we halted at this village and dined. purchased
five dogs, some roots, shappalell, filberds and dryed
burries of the inhabitants. here I observed several habitations
entirely under grownd; they were sunk about 8 feet deep and
covered with strong timber and several feet of earth in a conic
form. these habitations were evacuated at present. they are
about 16 feet in diameter, nearly circular, and are entered
through a hole at the top which appears to answer the double
purpose of a chimney and a door. from this entrance you
decend to the floor by a ladder. the present habitations of
these people were on the surface of the ground and do not
differ from those of the tribes of the rapids. their language is
the same with that of the Chilluckkittequaws. these people
appeared very friendly. some of them informed us that they
had lately returned from a war excurtion against the snake
indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to
the S.E. of them. they call them To-wan-nah′-hi′-ooks. that
they had been fortunate in their expedition and had taken from
their enimies most of the horses which we saw in their possession.
after dinner we pursued our voyage; Capt. Clark
walked on shore with Charbono. I ascended the river about
six miles at which place the river washed the base of high
clifts on the Lard. side, here we halted a few minutes and were
joined by Capt. C. and Charbono and proceeded on to the entrance
of a small run on N. side a little below a large village
on the same side opposite the sepulchre rock.[19] this village
can raise about an hundred fighting men they call themselves
[blank space in MS.] [Smack-shops] they do not differ in any
rispect from the village below. many of them visited our
camp this evening and remained with us untill we went to bed.
they then left us and retired to their quarters.

[Clark:]

Monday April 14th 1806

This morning at 7 oClock we were joined by Sgt. Pryor and
they [the] three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which
drewyer had killed yesterday. we took brackfast and departed
at 9 A.M. the wind rose and continued to blow hard all day
but not so violent as to prevent our proceeding. we kept
close allong the N. Shore all day. the river from the rapids
to the commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a
mile in width, and possesses but little current. the bead is
rock except at the enterence of Labiech's river which heads in
Mt. Hood and like the quick sand River brings down from
thence vast bodies of sand the mountains through which the
river passes nearly to Cataract River are high broken rocky,
particularly covered with fir and white cedar, and in maney
places very romantic scenes. Some handsom cascades are seen
on either side tumbling from the stupendious rocks of the
mountains into the river. I observe near the river the long
leafed Pine which increas as we assend and superseeds the fir
altogether about the Supulcher rock. we find the trunks of
maney large pine trees standing erect as they grew, at present

in 30 feet water; they are much doated and none of them
vegitateing. at the lowest water of the river maney of those
trees are in 10 feet water. the cause I have attempted to
account for as I decended. at 1 P M. we arrived at a large
village situated in a narrow bottom on the N. Side a little
above the enterance of Canoe creek. their houses are reather
detached, and extend for several miles. they are about 20 in
number. those people call themselves Wil-la-cum. they differ
but little in appearance dress &c. from those of the rapids.
their men have some legins and mockersons among them.
those are in the stile of Chopunnish. they have some good
horses of which we saw 10 or 12 these are the first horses
we have met with since we left this neighbourhood last fall
in short the country below this place will not permit the use
of this valuable animal except in the Columbian Vally, and
there the present inhabitents have no use for them as they
reside imedeately on the river and the country is too thickly
timbd. we halted at this village Dined and purchased five dogs,
Some roots Chappalell, Philberds [filberts] and dried berries
of the inhabitants. here I observed several habitations under
ground; they were sunk about 8 feet deep and covered with
strong timber and several feet of earth in a conic form. those
habitations are avacuated at present. they are about 16 feet
diameter, nearly circular, and are entered through a hole at
top which appears to answer the double purpose of chimney
and a dore. from this enterance you decend to the flore by a
ladder. the present habitations of those people were on the
surface of the ground and do not differ from those of the tribes
about the rapids. their language is the same with the Cheluckkittequaws. these people appeared very friendly. Some of
them informed us that they had latterly returned from the war
excurtion against the Snake Indians who inhabit the upper
part of the Multnomah river to the S.E. of them they call
them To wan nah hi ooks. that they had been fortunate in the
expedition and had taken from their enimies most of the
horses which we saw in their possession. after dinner we proceeded
on our voyage. I walked on shore with Shabono on
the N. Side through a handsom bottom. met several parties
of women and boys in serch of herbs & roots to subsist on
maney of them had parcels of the stems of the sun flower. I
joined Capt Lewis and the party at 6 miles, at which place the
river washed the bottom of high Clifts on the N. Side. Several
canoes over take us with families moveing up. we passed 3
encampments and came too in the mouth of a small creek on the
N. Side imediately below a village and opposit the Sepulchar
rock. this village consists of about 100 fighting men of several
tribes from the plains to the north collected here waiting
for the Salmon. they do not differ in any respect from those
below. many of them visited our camp this evening and remained
with us untill we went to bead. they then left us and
returned to their quarters. made [blank space in MS.] miles.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday April 15th. 1806

We delayed this morning untill after breakfast in order to
purchase some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed
some articles in exchange for horses the natives were unwilling
to barter, we therefore put up our merchandize and at 8 A.M.
we set out. we halted a few minutes at the sepulchre rock,
and examined the deposits of the ded at that place. these
were constructed in the same manner of those already discribed
below the rapids. some of them were more than half filled
with dead bodies. there were thirteen sepulchres on this rock
which stands near the center of the river and has a surface of
about 2 acres above high water mark.[20] from hence we returned
to the no[r]thern shore and continued up it about four miles
to another village of the same nation with whom we remained
last night. here we halted and informed the natives of our
wish to purchase horses; the[y] produced us several for sale
but would not take the articles which we had in exchange for
them. they wanted an instrument which the Northwest traders
call an eye-dag (a sort of war hatchet) which we had not. we

procured two dogs of them and departed. a little below the
entrance of Cataract river we halted at another village of the
same people, at which we were equally unsuccessfull in the purchase
of horses. we also halted at the two villages of the Chilluckkittequaws
a few miles above with no better success. at
three in the evening we arrived at the entrance of Quinnette[21]
creek which we ascended a short distance and encamped at the
place we have called rockfort camp.[22] here we were visited by
some of the people from the villages at the great narrows and
falls. we informed them of our wish to purchase horses, &
agreed to meet them on the opposite or North side of the
river tomorrow for the purpose of bartering with them. most
of them returned to their villages this evening three only
remained with us all night. these people are much better clad
than any of the nations below; their men have generally leging
mockersons and large robes. many of them wear shirts of the
same form [as] those of the Chopunnish and Shoshonees highly
ornamented with the quills of the porcupine as are also their
mockersons and legings. they conceal the parts of generation
with the skin of a fox or some other small animal drawn
underneath a girdle and hanging loosly in front of them like
a narrow apron. the dress of their women differs very little
from those about the rapids. both men and women cut their
hair in the forehead which comes down as low as the eyebrows,
they have long earlocks cut square at the end. the other part
of their hair is dressed in the same manner as those of the
rapids. after we landed and formed our camp this evening
Drewyer and some others took a hunt and killed a deer of the
longtailed kind. it was a buck and the young horns had shot
fourth about 2 inches.

[Clark:]

Tuesday April 15th. 1806

We delayed this morning untill after brackfast in order to
purchase some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed

some articles in exchange for horses the nativs were unwilling
to exchange their horses, we put up our Merchandize
and at 8 A M. set out, we halted a fiew minits at the Sepulchar
rock and examined the deposit of the dead at that place.
those were constructed in the same manner of those already
described below the rapids. Some of them were more than
half filled with dead bodies. there was 13 Supulchers on this
rock which stands near the center of the river, and has a cerface
of about two acres above the water. from here we returned
to the Northern Shore and continued up it about 4
miles to a village at the enterance of Cateract river, here we
halted and informed the nativs of our wish to purchase horses;
the[y] produced several for sale but would not take the articles
we had in exchange for them. they wanted an instriment
which the North W[est] Traders call an eye dag which we
had not. we precured two dogs and departed we also halted
at the two villages of the Chilluckkitequaws a fiew ms. above
with no better Sucksess. at 3 in the evening we arrived at the
enterance of Quinnett Creek which we assended a short distance
and Encamped at the place we had called rock fort camp,
here we were visited by some of the people from the villages
at the long narrows & Falls. we informed them of our wish
to purchase horses, and agreed to meet them on the opposit
or north side on tomorrow for the purpose of bartering with
them. most of them returned to their village this evening
three only remained with us all night. those people are much
better clad than the nativs below. their men have generaly
Legins Mockersons & large robes. maney of them were
[wear] shirts of the same form of those of the Chopunnish &
Shoshonees highly ornamented with the quils of the purcupine,
as are also their mockersons & Legins. they conseal the
parts of generation with the skins of the Fox or some other
small animal drawn under neath a girdle and hanging loosely
in front of them like a narrow apron. The dress of their
women differ verry little from those about the rapids. both
men & women cut their hair in the forehead which comes
down as low as the eyebrows, they have long ear locks cut
square at the end. The other parts of their hair is dressed in
the same manner as those of the rapids. after we landed and
formed our camp this evening Drewyer and some others took
a hunt and killed a Deer of the lo[n]g tailed kind. it was a
Buck and the young Deer horns had shot forth about two
inches made [blank space in MS.] miles to day.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday April 16th. 1806.

About 8 A.M. Capt. Clark passed the river with the two
interpreters, the indian woman and nine men in order to trade
with the natives for their horses, for which purpose he took
with him a good part of our stock of merchandize. I remained
in camp; sent out the hunters very early in the morning, and
set Sergts. Gass and Pryor with some others at work to make a
parsel of packsaddles. twelve horses will be sufficient to transport
our baggage and some pounded fish which we intend taking
with us as a reserved store for the rocky mountains. I
was visited today by several of the natives, and amused myself
in making a collection of the esculent plants in the neighbourhood
such as the Indians use, a specemine of which I preserved.
I also met with sundry other plants which were strangers to
me which I also preserved, among others there is a currant
which is now in blume and has [a] yellow blossom something
like the yellow currant of the Missouri but is a different
speceis.[23] Reubin Feilds returned in the evening and brought
with him a large grey squ[i]rrel and two others of a kind I
had never before seen. they are a size less than the grey
squirrel common to the middle atlantic states and of a pided
grey and yellowish brown colour, in form it resembles our
grey squ[i]rrel precisely. I had them skined leaving the head
feet and tail to them and placed in the sun to dry. Joseph
Feilds brought me a black pheasant which he had killed; this
I found on examination to be the large black or dark brown
pheasant I had met with on the upper part of the Missouri.
it is as large as a well grown fowl the iris of the eye is of a
dark yellowish brown, the puple black, the legs are booted to
the toes, the tail is composed of 18 black feathers tiped with

bluish white, of which the two in the center are reather shorter
than the others which are all of the same length. over the
eye there is a stripe of a 1/4 of an inch in width uncovered with
feathers of a fine orrange yellow. the wide spaces void of
feathers on the side of the neck are also of the same colour.
I had some parts of this bird preserved. our present station
is the last point at which there is a single stick of timber on
the river for a great distance and is the commencement of the
open plains which extend nearly to the base of the rocky Mts
Labuish returned this evening having killed two deer I sent
and had them brought in. this evening Capt. C. informed me
by some of the men whom he sent over that that he had
obtained no horses as yet of the natives. that they promised
to trade with him provided he would remove to their village.
to this he had consented and should proceede to the Skillute
village above the long narrows as soon as the men returned
whom he had sent to me for some other articles. I dispatched
the men on their return to Capt. C. immediately with these
articles and he set out with his party accompanyed by the
natives to their village where he remained all night. the
natives who had spent the day with me seemed very well disposed,
they left me at 6 in the evening and returned to their
rispective villages. the hunters informed me that they saw
some Antelopes, & the tracks of several black bear, but no
appearance of any Elk. we were informed by the Indians
that the river which falls in on the S. side of the Columbia
just above the Eneshur village heads in Mount hood and dose
not water the extensive country which we have heretofore calculated
on.[24] a great portion of that extensive tract of country
to the S. and S.W. of the Columbia and it's S.E. branch, and
between the same and the waters of Callifornia must be watered
by the Multnomah river.

Observed Equal Altitudes of the Sun with Sextant

       

	h m s		h m s
A.M.	6. 52 . 43.	P.M.	2. 20 . 45	Chronometer too slow m s M.T. [blank space in MS.]
	" . 54 . 20.		" . 22 . 26.
	" . 55 . 26.		" . 24 .—.

[Clark, first draft:]

April 16th 1806[25]

Crossed the river and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the
Skil-lute village to envite the Indians to trade horses with us,
also sent Frazer & Shabono to the Che-luck-kit-ti-quar village
for the same purpose a number of Indians came of both
nations and delayed the greater part of the day without tradeing
a single horse the Great chief of the Skillutes also came
with Drewyer. he was lame and could not walk he told me
if I would go to his Town, his people would trade with me.
I set out late and arrived at Sunset and informed the natives
that in the morning I would trade with them. he gave me
onions to eate which had been Sweated. Peter played the
violin and the men danced. Saw abt. 100 Stacks of fish.
maney nations visit this place for trade the discription of the
houses, their dress habits &c. Smoked &c. I saw great numbers
of horses

[Clark, second draft:]

Wednesday April 16th 1806

About 8 oClock this morning I passed the river with the
two interpreters, and nine men in order to trade with the
nativs for their horses, for which purpose I took with me a
good part of our stock of merchindize. Capt L. sent out the
hunters and set several men at work makeing pack saddles.
twelve horses will be sufficient to transport our baggage and
some pounded fish with our dried Elk, which we intend takeing
with us as a reserved store for the plains & rocky mountains.
I formed a Camp on the N. Side and sent Drewyer &
Goodrich to the Skillute Village. and Shabono & Frazer down
to the Chilluckkitequaw Village with derections to inform the
nativs that I had crossed the river for the purpose of purchaseing
horses, and if they had horses to sell us to bring them
to my camp. Great numbers of Indians came from both villages
and delayed the greater part of the day without tradeing
a single horse. Drewyer returned with the principal Chief of
the Skillutes who was lame and could not walk. after his

arival some horses were offered for sale, but they asked nearly
half the merchindize I had with me for one horse. this price
I could not think of giveing. the Chief informed me if I
would go to his town with him, his people would sell me
horses. I therefore concluded to accompany him to his village
7 miles distant. we set out and arrived at the village at Sunset.
after some serimony I entered the house of the Chief. I then
informed them that I would trade with them for their horses
in the morning for which I would give for each horse the
articles which I had offered yesterd[ay]. The Chief set before
me a large platter of onions which had been sweeted [sweated].
I gave a part of those onions to all my party and we all eate
of them, in this state the root is very sweet and the tops
tender. the nativs requested the party to dance which they
very readily consented and Peter Cruzat played on the violin
and the men danced several dances & retired to rest in the
houses of the 1st. and second Chief. this village is moved
about 300 yards below the spot it stood last fall at the time
we passed down. they were all above grown[d] and built in
the same form of those below already described. We observed
maney stacks of fish remaining untouched on either side of the
river. The Inhabitents of this village ware the robe of deer
Elk Goat &c. and most of the men ware Legins and Mockersons
and shirts highly ornimented with Porcupine quills &
beeds. the women were the Truss most commonly, tho some
of them have long shirts all of those articles they precure
from other nations who visit them for the purpose of exchangeing
those articles for their pounded fish of which they prepare
great quantities. This is the great mart of all this country.
ten different tribes who reside on Taptate and Catteract River
visit those people for the purpose of purchaseing their fish,
and the Indians on the Columbia and Lewis's river quite to
the Chopunnish Nation visit them for the purpose of tradeing
horses buffalow robes for beeds, and such articles as they have
not. The Skillutes precure the most of their cloth knivs axes
& beeds from the Indians from the North of them who trade
with white people who come into the inlets to the North at
no great distance from the Tapteet. their horses of which I
saw great numbers, they precure from the Indians who reside
on the banks of the Columbia above, and what fiew they take
from the Towarnihiooks or Snake Indians. I smoked with
all the principal men of this nation in the house of their great
Chief and lay my self down on a mat to sleep but was prevented
by the mice and vermin with which this house abounded
and which was very troublesom to me.

[Lewis:]

Thursday April 17th. 1806.

This morning early I sent out the hunters, and set several
additional hands about the packsaddles. I find that the sturgeon
is not taken by any of the natives above the Columbean
valley. the inhabitants of the rapids at this time take a few of
the white salmon trout and considerable quantities of a small
indifferent mullet on which they principally subsist. I have
seen none except dryed fish of the last season in the possession
of the people above that place, they subsist on roots principally
with some dryed and pounded fish. the salmon not
having made their appearance proves a serious inconvenience
to us. but few of the natives visited my camp today and
those only remained a few hours. even at this place which is
merely on the border of the plains of Columbia the climate
seems to have changed the air feels dryer and more pure. the
earth is dry and seems as if there had been no rain for a week
or ten days. the plain is covered with a rich virdure of grass
and herbs from four to nine inches high and exhibits a beautifull
seen particularly pleasing after having been so long imprisoned
in mountains and those almost impenetrably thick
forrests of the seacoast. Joseph Feilds brought me today
three eggs of the party coloured corvus,[26] they are about the
size and shape of those of the pigeon. they are bluish white
much freckled with dark redish brown irregular spots, in short
it is reather a mixture of those colours in which the redish
brown predominates, particularly towards the larger end. This
evening Willard and Cruzatte returned from Capt. Clark and
brought me a note in which Capt. C. informed me that he had

s[t]ill been unsuccessfull having not obtained a single horse as
yet from the natives and the state of our stores are so low that
I begin to fear we shall not be enabled to obtain as many
horses at this place as will convey our baggage and unless we
do obtain a sufficient number for that purpose we shall not
hasten our progress as a part of our baggage must still be conveyed
by water. Capt. C. informed me that he should proceed
as far as the Eneshur village today and would return tomorrow
and join me at the Skillute village to which place I mean to
proceed with the party tomorrow. I dispatched Shannon with
a note to Capt. Clark in which I requested him to double the
price we have heretofore offered for horses and if possible obtain
as many as five, by this means we shall be enabled to
proceed immediately with our small canoes and those horses to
the villages in the neighbourhood of the musselshell rapid
where horses are more abundant and cheaper; with the remainder
of our merchandize in addition to the canoes we can
no doubt obtain as many horses there as will answer our purposes.
delay in the villages at the narrows and falls will be
expensive to us inasmuch as we will be compelled to purchase
both fuel and food of the indians, and might the better enable
them to execute any hostile design should they meditate any
against us. all the hunters returned in the evening. Sheilds
had killed one deer which he brought with him. the packsaddles
were completed this evening. I had some Elkskins
put in the water today [to] make harnes for the packhorses
but shall not cut them untill I know the number we can obtain.
there is a species of hiasinth in these plains the bulb of which
the natives eat either boiled baked or dryed in the sun. this
bulb is white, not entirely solid, and of a flat form; the bulb of
the present year overlays, or crowns that of the last, and seems
to be pressed close to it, the old bulb is withered much thiner
equally wide with that of the present year and sends fourth
from it's sides a number of small radicles. this hiasinth is of a
pale blue colour and is a very pretty flower. I preserved a
specemine of it.[27]

[Clark, first draft:]

April 17th. 1806

I rose early and took a position near to the village and exposed
the arti[c]les I had for Sale Great numbers of Indians
came from different derections; some from below some above
and others across the countrey from the Tapteel river see
description of the Nations &c. I obtained a Sketch of the
Columbia as also Clarks river. See sketch[28] I made a bargin
with the cheif who has more horses than all the village besides
for 2 horses. Soon after he canseled his bargin, and we again
bargined for 3 horses, they were brought forward, and only
one fit for service, the others had such intolerable backs as to
render them entirely unfit for service. as I would not take the
3 he would not sell the good one to me, and we were off
the bargin. I then packed up and was about setting out for
the Falls when one Indian sold me 2 horses and one other one
horse, and Some others Said they wished to trade which caused
me to conclude to delay here one other night. Maney of the
natives from above come and said they would trade, but asked
a higher price than I thought I could give or reather more
than this nation asked. Great numbers of men. I hed to
purchase 3 dogs for the men to eate & some Shap-per-lell.
I sent Crusat, Wiser, Willard and Mc.Neal back to Capt Lewis
informing him of my ill suck'sess, and adviseing him to proceed
on to this place as soon as possible, and my intention of
proceeding on to the falls to purchase horses if possible Several
Indians arived late this evening. Capt. Lewis sent me a
note by Shannon informing me that he would set [off] early
on tomorrow morning early &c. &c. I slept in house of the 2d
chief and they had not any thing except fish to eate and no
wood for fire. those people have a number of buffalow robes.
They have great number of skimming nets

[Clark:]

Thursday 17th.. of April 1806

I rose early after [a] bad nights rest, and took my merchindize
to a rock which afforded an eligable situation for my purpose,
and at a short distance from the houses, and divided the

articles of merchindize into parsels of such articles as I thought
best calculated to pleas the Indians. and in each parcel I put
as many articles as we could afford to give, and thus exposed
them to view, informing the Indians that each parcel was intended
for a horse. they tanterlised me the greater part of
the day, saying that they had sent out for their horses and
would trade as soon as they came. Several parcels of merchindize
was laid by for which they told me they would bring
horses. I made a bargin with the chief for 2 horses, about an
hour after he canseled the bargin and we again bargained for 3
horses which were brought forward, only one of the 3 could
be possibly used the other two had such intolerable backs as to
render them entirely unfit for service. I refused to take two
of them which displeased him and he refused to part with the
3rd. I then packed up the articles and was about setting out
for the village above when a man came and sold me two
horses, and another man sold me one horse, and several others
informed me that they would trade with me if I would continue
untill their horses could be drove up. this induced me
to continue at this village another day. Maney of the nativs
from different villages on the Columbia above offered to trade,
but asked such things as we had not and double as much of
the articles which I had as we could afford to give. this was
a very unfavourable circumstance as my dependance for precureing
a sufficiency of horses rested on the suckcess above
where I had reasons to believe there were a greater abundance
of those animals, and was in hopes of getting them on better
terms. I purchased 3 dogs for the party with me to eate and
some chap-pa-lell for my self. before precureing the 3 horses
I dispatched Crusat, Willard & Mc Neal and Peter Wiser to
Capt Lewis at the Rock fort Camp with a note informing him
of my ill suckcess in precureing horses, and advised him to
proceed on to this place as soon as possible. that I would in
the mean time proceed on to the Enesher Nation above the
Great falls and try to purchase some horses of that people.
Soon after I had dispatched this party the Chief of the Enesher's
and 15 or 20 of his people visited me and appeared to be
anxious to see the articles I offered for the horses. several of
them agreed to let me have horses if I would add sundery
articles to those I offered which I agreed to do, and they lay'd
those bundles by and informed me they would deliver me the
horses in the morning. I proposed going with them to their
Town. the chief informed me that their horses were all in
the plains with their womin gathering roots. they would Send
out and bring the horses to this place tomorrow. this inteligence
was flattering, tho' I doubted the sincerity of those
people who had several times disapointed me in a similar way.
however I deturmined to continue untill tomorrow. in the
mean time indust[ri]ously employd. our selves with the great
multitude of Indians of differant Nations about us trying to
purchase horses. Shabono purchased a verry fine mare for
which he gave Hurmen [Ermine], Elks Teeth, a belt and
some other articles of no great value. no other purchase was
made in the course of this day. in the evening I rec[ei]ved a
note from Capt L. by Shannon informing me that he should
set out early on tomorrow morning and should proceed up to
the bason 2 miles below the Skillute Village, and adviseing me
to give double the prices which we had first agreed on for each
horse. I observe at every house scooping nets with which
they take the Salmon. I was envited into the house of the
2nd. Chief where concluded to sleep. this man was pore nothing
to eat but dried fish, and no wood to burn. altho' the
night was cold they could not rase as much wood as would
make a fire.