University of Virginia Library


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Chapter XXVI

FROM THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA TO
WALLA WALLA RIVER

XXVI. Lewis's Journal, April 18–May 1, 1806
Clark's Journal, April 18–May 1

[Lewis:]

Friday April 18th. 1806.

LATE last evening we were visited by the principal chief
of Chilluckkittaquaws and 12 of his nation they
remained with us untill 9 OC. when they all departed
except the Cheif and two others who slept at my feet. we
loaded our vessels and set out after an early breakfast this
morning. we gave the indians a passage to the N. shore on
which they reside and pursued our rout to the foot of the first
rapid at the distance of 4 Ms. here we found it necessary to
unload the perogues and canoes and make a portage of 70
paces over a rock; we then drew our vessels up by a cord and
the assistance of setingpoles. from hence we proceeded to the
bason below the long narrows 5 ms. further and landed on the
Lard. side at 1/2 after 3. the Cheif when he left me this morning
promised to bring some horses to barter with me at the
bason. the long narrows are much more formidable than they
were when we decended them last fall there would be no
possibility of passind[g] either up or down them in any vessel.[1]
after unloading the canoes and arranging the camp I walked
up to the Skillute Village and jouined Capt. [C.] he had
procured four horses only for which a high price had been
given, at least more than double that which we had formerly
given for those which we purchased from the Shoshonees and
the first bands of Flatheads. they have a great abundance of
horses but will not dispose of them. we determined to make
the portage to the head of the long narrows with our baggage


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and five small canoes. the 2 perogues we could take no further
and therefore cut them up for fuel. in the evening Capt. C. and
myself returned to the camp at the bason and left Drewyer
and three others with the merchandize at the village, three
parsels of which had been laid by at the request of individuals
who promised to give us horses for them in the morning. I
shot my airgun in the presents of the natives at the village
which excited great astonishment.

 
[1]

On the etymology of "Dalles," see Bancroft's N. W. Coast, ii, p. 44.—Ed.

[Clark, first draft:]

April 18th. 1806

early this morning I was awoke by a Indian from the neighbourhood
of our horses, he arived here yesterday & this
morning found a Small bag of powder and ball which had been
left when we exposed our goods yesterday and brought it to
me. I had a fire made out and exposed the articles & having
increased the articles for each horse, and sent out 2 men to
hunt the horses bought yesterday. after colecting them Sent
Shabono and Frazer with the 4 I had purchased down to
Capt. Lewis. and was tanterlised with the expectation of purchaseing
more imediately. Great numbers of the Indians from
the falls and both above and below. None of them appeared
anxious to part with their horses but told me that Several
were comeing from the plains about 1 or 2 P M. and laid by
2 parcels of merchendize and told me that they had Sent for
their horses. among other Tribes was those of the Skad-datts
who bantered the Skillutes to play with them at a Singular
kind of a game which was soon made up and 9 of a side Sat
down they were some time making up their bets of Beeds,
brass thimbles or tubes robes &c. &c. when the bets were all
made up the nine on each side took opposides faceing each
other at the distance of about 12 feet. in front of each party
was placed a long pole on which they struck with a stick
and Sung. they made use of 2 small pices of bone in this
form and size [ILLUSTRATION] a bone was given to 2
men of the same party who changed
it from hand to hand with great dexterity
one hand above the other looking down, and when he


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was ready for the opposit party to guess he Separated his
hands swinging them around the breast looking at the opposit
party who waved their hand to the side the bone was in. if
the opposit party guessed the hand of each man the bone was
given to them. if neither it was nothing. if they guessed one
which they might single out if they pleased they recived his
bone, and lost on the other as they hapened to fail in guessing
they also lose one if the[y] fail [to] guess both The game is
plaid at different numbers & each party has 5 sticks. Several
of those games were played to day in which the Skillutes won,
indeed the[y] won all the beeds and Som robes of the Skaddatts
which they had r[i]sked one other game which they also
played by 2 men with 4 sticks. 2 black & 2 white under a kind
of hat made of bark. as this is a very intrecut game I cannot
describe it: the one who holds the sticks places them in different
positions, and the opposit party, guess the position of the
black sticks by a motion of either one or both of the hands.
each man has 4 sticks. this as also the other is accompanied
with a kind of song. This hat is about 12 inches [in] diamuter
and the sticks about 5 inches long. at 3 P M Sergt Ordway
arived with 3 men from Capt Lewis with elk skins and some
fiew articles such as a coat & robes. I had 3 dogs purchased,
soon after Capt. Lewis came up with J. Fields he had assended
the river with much dificuelty to the bason 2 miles below. I
left Drewyer, Warner, Shannon & Goodrich with the articles
and went down with Capt. Lewis to the bason, cut up 2 of
our canoes for fire wood, no horses more Maney nations
resort here for trade

[Clark:]

Friday 18th.. April 1806

Early this morning I was awoke by an indian man of the
Chopunnish Nation who informed me that he lived in the
neighbourhood of our horses. this man delivered me a bag
of powder and ball which he had picked up this morning at
the place the goods were exposed yesterday. I had a fire
made of some poles purchased of the nativs at a short distance
from the houses and the articles exposed as yesterday. Collected


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the 4 horses purchased yesterday and sent Frazier and
Shabono with them to the bason where I expected they would
meet Cap L—s and commence the portage of the baggage on
those horses, about 10 A. M. the Indians came down from
the Eneesher Villages and I expected would take the articles
which they had laid by yesterday. but to my estonishment
not one would make the exchange to day. two other parcels
of goods were laid by, and the horses promised at 2 P.M. I
payed but little attention to this bargain, however suffered the
bundles to lye. I dressed the sores of the principal Chief
gave some small things to his children and promised the chief
some Medicine for to cure his sores. his wife who I found
to be a sulky Bitch and was somewhat efflicted with pains in
her back. this I thought a good oppertunity to get her on
my side giveing her something for her back. I rubed a little
camphere on her temples and back, and applyed worm flannel
to her back which she thought had nearly restored her to her
former feelings. this I thought a favourable time to trade
with the chief who had more horses than all the nation besides.
I accordingly made him an offer which he excepted and sold
me two horses. Great numbers of Indians from defferent
derections visited me at this place to day. none of them
appeared willing to part with their horses, but told me that
several were comeing from the plains this evening. among
other nations who visit this place for the purpose of trade is
the Skad-datt's those people bartered the Skillutes to play at
a singular kind of game. in the course of the day the Skillutes
won all their beeds skins arrows &c. This game was composed
of 9 men on a side. they set down opposit to each other at
the distance of about 10 feet. in front of each party a long
pole was placed on which they struck with a small stick to the
time of their songs. after the bets were made up which was
nearly half an hour after they set down, two round bones was
produced about the size of a mans little finger or something
smaller and 2 1/4 inches in length. which they held in their
hands changeing it from one hand to the other with great
dexterity. 2 men on the same side performed this part, and
when they had the bone in the hand they wished, they looked

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at their advorsarys swinging arms around their sholders for
their advorsary [to] Guess which they performed by the motion
the hand either to the right or left. if the opposit party
guessed the hand of both of the men who had the bone, the
bones were given to them. if neither the bones was retained
and nothing counted. if they guessed one and not the other,
one bone was delivered up and the party possessing the other
bone counted one. and one for every time the advorsary missguessed
untill they guessed the hand in which the bone was in.
in this game each party has 5 sticks. and one side wins all the
sticks, once twice or thrice as the game may be set. I
observed another game which those people also play and is
played by 2 persons with 4 sticks about the size of a mans
finger and about 7 inches in length. two of those sticks are
black and the other 2 white and something larger than the
black ones. those sticks they place in different positions
which they perform under a kind of trencher made of bark
round and about 14 inches diameter. this is a very intricate
game and I cannot sufficently understand to discribe it. the
man who is in possession of the sticks &c places them in different
positions, and the opposit party tels the position of the
black sticks by a motion of either or both of his hands &c. this
game is counted in the same way as the one before mentioned.
all their games are accompanied with songs and time. at 3
P.M. Sergt. Ordway & three men arived from Cap Lewis
they brought with them several Elk skins, two of my coats
and 4 robes of the party to add to the stores I had with me
for the purchase of horses. Sgt. O. informed me that Cap L.
had arived with all the canoes into the bason 2 miles below
and wished some dogs to eate. I had 3 dogs purchased and
sent down, at 5 P. M. Capt. Lewis came up. he informed
me that he had [passed] the river to the bason with much
dificuelty and danger, haveing made one portage. as I had
not slept but very little for the two nights past on account of
mice & Virmen with which those indian houses abounded,
and haveing no blanket with me, and the means of keeping a
fire sufficent to keep me worm out [of doors] was too expensive
I deturmined to proceed with Capt L. down to camp at

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the bason. I left the articles of Merchendize &c. with Drewyer,
Werner, Shannon & Goodrich untill the morning. at
the bason we cut up two of our Canoes for fire wood, verry
much to the sagreen [chagrin] of the nativs notwithstanding
they would give us nothing for them. In my absence several
Inds. visited Capt. Lewis at his camp among others was the
great Chief of the Chilluckkitquaw who continued with him
untill he left Rock fort camp. Capt. L. had 12 pack saddles
completed and strings prepared of the Elk skins for Lashing
the loads he also kept out all the hunters who killed just
deer enough for the party with him to subsist on. The Chief
who had visited Capt Lewis promised him that he would bring
some horses to the bason and trade with him. but he was not
as good as his word. Capt. Lewis gave a large Kittle for a
horse which was offered to him at the bason this evening.

[Lewis:]

Saturday April 19th. 1806.

This morning early we had our small canoes drawn out, and
employed all hands in transporting our baggage on their backs
and by means of the four pack-horses, over the portage.
This labour we had accomplished by 3 P.M. and established
our camp a little above the present Skil-lute village which has
been removed a few hundred yards lower down the river than
when we passed them last fall and like others below have the
floors of their summer dwellings on the surface of the earth
instead of those cellars in which they resided when we passed
them. there was great joy with the natives last night in consequence
of the arrival of the Salmon; one of those fish was
caught; this was the harbinger of good news to them. They
informed us that these fish would arrive in great quantities in
the course of about 5 days. this fish was dressed and being
divided into small peices was given to each child in the village.
this custom is founded in a supersticious opinion that it will
hasten the arrival of the salmon. with much difficulty we
obtained four other horses from the Indians today, we wer[e]
obliged to dispence with two of our kettles, in order to acquire
those, we have now only one small kettle to a mess of 8 men.


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in the evening Capt. Clark set out with four men to the
Enesher village at the grand falls in order to make a further
attempt to procure horses. these people are very faithless in
their contracts; they frequently receive the merchandize in
exchange for their horses and after some hours insist on some
additional article being given them or revoke the exchange.
they have pilfered several small articles from us this evening.
I directed the horses to be hubbled & suffered to graize at a
little distance from our camp under the immediate eye of the
men who had them in charge. one of the men Willard was
negligent in his attention to his horse and suffered it to
ramble off; it was not to be found when I ordered the others
to be brought up and confined to the picquits. this in addition
to the other difficulties under which I laboured was truly
provoking. I repremanded him more severely for this piece
of negligence than had been usual with me. I had the remaining
horses well secured by picquits; they were extreemly
wrestless and it required the attention of the whole guard
through the night to retain them notwithstanding they were
hubbled and picquited. they frequently throwed themselves
by the ropes by which they were confined. all except one
were stone horses for the people in this neighbourhood do
not understand the art of gelding them, and this is a season
at which they are most vicious. many of the natives remained
about our camp all night.

[Clark, first draft:]

April 19th.. 1806.

this morning early had some rain had the small canoes
hauled out to dry every man capable of carrying a load
comenced the portage and by 5 P. M had every part of our
baggage and canoes across the portage. I then took Sgt. Pryor,
G. Shannon & Crusat & Labiech and went up to the falls at
which place I arived about 8 p.m. in the course of this day
I purchased 4 horses at the town & Capt Lewis purchased one.
the natives finding that we were about to proceed on by water
sold us those fiew horses for which we were compd. to pay them
emence prices and the horses were indifferent. Several showers
of rain this day. description of those people &c. narrows bad


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[Clark:]

Saturday 19th April 1806.

We deturmined to make the portage to the head of the long
narrows with our baggage and 5 small canoes, the 2 large
canoes we could take no further and therefore cut them up for
fuel. we had our small canoes drawn up very early and
employed all hands in transporting our baggage on their backs
and by means of 4 pack horses, over the portage. This
labour we had accomplished by 3. P. M. and established our
camp a little above the present Skillute village which has been
removed as before observed a fiew hundred yards lower down
the river than when we passed it last fall. I left Capt L. at
the bason and proceeded to the village early this morning with
a view to receive the horses which were promised to be
brought this morning for articles laid by last evining. in the
course of this day I purchased four horses at the Village, and
Capt Lewis one at the bason before he left it. after the baggage
was all safely landed above the portage, all hands brought
over the canoes at 2 lodes which was accomplished by 5 P.M.
as we had not a sufficiency of horses to transport our baggage
we agreed that I should proceed on to the Enesher Villages at
the great falls of the Columbia and if possible purchase as
maney horses as would transport the baggage from that place,
and rid us of the trouble and dificuelty of takeing our canoes
further. I set out with Serjt Pryor, Geo. Shannon Peter
Crusat & Labiech at half past 5 P. M. for the Enesher village
at which place I arrived at 8 P.M. Several showers of rain
in the after part of to day, and the S W wind very high.
there was great joy with the nativs last night in consequence
of the arrival of the Salmon; one of those fish was cought,
this was the harbenger of good news to them. They informed
us that those fish would arive in great quantities in the course
of about 5 days. this fish was dressed and being divided into
small pieces was given to each child in the village. this
custom is founded on a supersticious opinion that it will
hasten the arrival of the Salmon. We were oblige[d] to dispence
with two of our kittles in order to acquire two of the
horses purchased to day. we have now only one small kittle
to a mess of 8 men. These people are very fa[i]thless in


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contracts; they frequently recive the merchindize in exchange
for their horses and after some hours insist on some additional
article being given them or revoke the exchange.

The long narrows are much more formidable than they
were when we decended them last fall, there would be no possibility
of passing either up or down them in any vessle at
this time.

I entered the largest house of the Eneeshers Village in
which I found all the enhabitants in bead. they rose and
made a light of straw, they haveing no wood to burn. Many
men collected we smoked and I informed them that I had
come to purchase a fiew horses of them. they promused to
sell me some in the morning.

[Lewis:]

Sunday April 20th. 1806.

some frost this morning. The Enesher an[d] Skillutes are
much better clad than they were last fall, there men have
generally legings mockersons and large robes; many of them
wear shirts of the same form with those of the Shoshone
Chopunnish &c. highly ornamented with porcupine quills.
the dress of their women differs very little from those of the
great rapids and above. their children frequently wear robes
of the large grey squirrel skins, those of the men and women
are principally deer skins, some wolf, elk, big horn and
buffaloe; the latter they procure from the nations who sometimes
visit the Missouri. indeed a considerable p[r]oportion
of their wearing apparel is purchased from their neighbours to
the N.W. in exchange for pounded fish copper and beads. at
present the principal village of the Eneshur is below the falls
on. the N. side of the river. one other village is above the
falls on the S. side and another a few miles above on the
N. side, the first consists of 19, the 2ed. of 11, and the 3rd. of
5 lodges. their houses like those of the Skillutes have their
floors on the surface of the ground, but are formed of sticks
and covered with mats and straw. they are large and contain
usually several families each, for fuel they use straw, small


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willows and the southern wood.[2] they use the silk grass in manufacturing
their fishing nets and bags, the bear grass and cedar
bark are employed in forming a variety of articles. they are
poor, dirty, proud, haughty, inhospitable, parsimonious and
faithless in every rispect. nothing but our numbers I beleive
prevents their attempting to murder us at this moment.[3]

This morning I was informed that the natives had pilfered
six tommahawks and a knife from the party in the course
of the last night. I spoke to the cheif on this subject, he
appeared angry with his people and addressed them but the
property was not restored, one horse which I had purchased
and paid for yesterday and which could not be found when I
ordered the horses into close confinement yesterday I was now
informed had been gambled away by the rascal who had sold
it to me and had been taken away by a man of another nation.
I therefore took the goods back from this fellow. I purchased
a gun from the cheif for which I gave him 2 Elkskins. in the
course of the day I obtained two other indifferent horses for
which I gave an extravigant price. I found that I should get
no more horses and therefore resolved to proceed tomorrow
morning with those which I had and to convey the baggage in
two small canoes that the horses could not carry. for this
purpose I had a load made up for seven horses, the eighth
Bratton was compelled to ride as he was yet unable to walk.
1 bart[er]ed my Elkskins old irons and 2 canoes for beads.
one of the canoes for which they would give us but little I had
cut up for fuel. These people have yet a large quantity of
dryed fish on hand yet they will not let us have any but for an
exorbitant price, we purchased two dogs and some shappellel
from them. I had the horses graized untill evening and then
picquited and hubbled within the limits of our camp. I
ordered the indians from our camp this evening and informed
them that if I caught them attempting to perloin any article


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from us I would beat them severely. they went off in reather
a bad humour and I directed the party to examine their arms
and be on their guard. they stole two spoons from us in the
course of the day. The Scad-dals, Squan-nan-os, Shan-wah-pums
and Shallattas reside to the N.W. of these people, depend
on hunting deer and Elk and trade with these people for
ther pounded fish.[4]

 
[2]

The "southernwood," also mentioned April 27, post, is the common sage
brush (Artemisia tridentata, Nutt.). In many places in the Columbia plains this is
still the only fuel of the settlers.—C. V. Piper.

[3]

This paragraph, evidently omitted by Lewis in copying from his notes, is found
on p. 150 of Codex K (with reference thereto from p. 72).—Ed.

[4]

These tribes are usually identified as the Klikitat and Yakima—Shahaptian
tribes of eastern Washington. See "Estimate of Western Indians," vol. vi.—Ed.

[Clark, first draft:]

April 20th. 1806

This morning very cold hills covered with snow. I showed
the nativs what I had to give for their horses and attempted to
purchase them. they informed me that they would not Sell
any horses to me, that their horses were at a [place a] long
ways off and they would not trade them. my offer was a blue
robe, callico shirt, a handkerchef, 5 parcels of paint a knife, a
wampom moon 4 braces of ribin, a pice of Brass and about 6
braces of yellow beeds; and to that amount for what I had I
also offered my large blue blanket for one, my coat Sword &
Plume none of which seem to entice those people to give
horses if they had any. they set in their huts which is of mats
supported on poles without fire. at night when they want a
light they burn dry straw & some fiew small dry willows.
they speak different from those below, have but little to eate,
some roots & Dryed fish is to be found in their houses. I am
half frozed at this inhospitable village which is moved from its
position above the falls to one below and contains 19 large
houses, a village is also established on the other side imedeately
above the falls. all the natives who was established above the
Falls for some distance has removed Those people are much
better dressed than they were at the time we went down the
river. They have all new Deer, Elk, Ibex Goat & Wolf
skin robes, their children also the large squirel skin robes.
maney of them have Legins and mockersons, all of which they
precure of the Indians at a distance in exchange for their
pounded fish & Beeds. they also purchase silk grass of


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which they make their nets & Sanes [seines] for takeing fish
they also purchase Bear grass and maney other things for their
fish. those people gave me roots and berries prepared in
different ways for which I gave some small articles in return.
Great numbers of skiming knets on their houses. Those
people are Pore and kind durty & indolent. They ware their
hair loose flowing the men cut in the foward [fore head]
which the Skilloots do not &c. &c. I could not precure a single
horse of those people, dureing this day at any price, they
offered me 2 for 2 kittles of which we could not spear. I
used every artifice decent & even false statements to enduce
those pore devils to sell me horses. in the evening two different
men offered to sell me three horses which they informed me
was a little distance off and they would bring them imediately.
those two persons as I found went imediately off up the river
to their tribe without any intention to find or sell their horses.
a little before Sunset 3 men arived from some distance above,
and informed me that they came to see me. at Sunset finding
no probability of Capt Lewis arival, packed up the articles and
took them into the lodge in which I lay last night. Great
numbers of those people geathered around me to smoke. I
gave them 2 pipes and lay down in the back part of the
house with Sgt. P. & the men with our arms in a situation as
to be ready in case of any alarm. those pore people appear
entirely harmless. I purchased a dog and some wood with a
little pounded fish and chappalels. made a fire on the rocks
and cooked the dogs on which the men breckfast & Dined.
wind hard all day cold from N W.

[Clark, second draft:]

Sunday 20th.. April 1806

a very cold morning the Western mountains covered with
snow I shewed the Eneshers the articles I had to give for
their horses. they without hezitation informed me that they
would not sell me any for the articles I had, if I would give
them Kittles they would let me have horses, and not without
that their horses were at a long ways off in the planes and they
would not send for them &c. My offer was a blue robe, a


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calleco Shirt, a Silk handkerchief, 5 parcels of paint, a knife, a
Wampom moon, 8 yards of ribon, several pieces of Brass,
a Mockerson awl and 6 braces of yellow beeds; and to that
amount for each horse which is more than double what we
gave either the Sohsohne or first flatheads we met with on
Clarks river I also offered my large blue blanket, my coat
sword & plume none of which seamed to entice those people
to sell their horses. notwithstanding every exertion not a
single horse could be precured of those people in the course
of the day. Those people are much better clad than they
were last fall, their men have generally legins mockersons and
large robes. maney of them ware shirts of the same form of
those of the Chopunnish and Shoshone highly ornimented with
porcupine quills. the dress of their wimen differs verry little
from those above the great rapids. their children have small
robes of the squirel skins. those of the men & women are
principally deer, some elk, wolf, Ibix & buffalow which they
precure from distant nations who purchase their Pounded fish
in exchange for those robes & Beeds. The principal village
of the Enesher nation is imediately below the falls on the
N. Side. one other village of the same nation above the falls
on the opposit side and one other a few miles above on the
North Side. The Houses of those people like the Skillutes
have the flores of their summer dwelling on the surface of the
earth in sted of those sellers in which they resided when we
passed them last fall. those houses are covered with mats and
straw are large and contain several families each. I counted 19
at this village & 11 on the opposit side. those people are
pore durty haughty. they burn straw and small willows.
have but little to eate and deer with what they have. they
precure the silk grass of which they make their nets, the
bear grass for makeing their mats and several other necessary
[articles] of the Indians of the following nations who trade
with them as also the Skillutes for their pounded fish. Viz.
Skad-dats, Squan-nun-os, Shan-wap-poms, Shall-lat-tos, who
reside to the north and several bands who reside on the
Columbia above. I precured a sketch of the Columbia and
its branches of those people in which they made the river which

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falls into the Columbia imediately above the falls on the South
Side to branch out into 3 branches one of which they make
head in Mt. Jefferson, one in mount Hood and the other in
the S W. range of mountains, and does not water that extensive
country we have heretofore calculated on. a great portion
of the Columbia and Lewis's river and betwen the same and
the waters of Callifornia must be watered by the Multnomah
river. See Sketch in the latter part of this book Those people
are great jokers and deciptfull in trade. at sunset finding that
Capt Lewis would not arrive this evening as I expected, I
packed up all the articles which I had exposed, at a situation I
had pitched on to Encamp, and at which place we had bought
as maney fishing poles as made a fire to cook a dog which I
had purchased for the men to eate, and returned to the lodge
which I had slept in last night. great number gathered around
me to smoke, I gave them two pipes, and then lay my self
down with the men to sleep, haveing our merchendize under our
heads and guns &c in our arms, as we always have in similar
situations.

[Lewis:]

Monday April 21st. 1806.

Notwithstanding all the precautions I had taken with rispect
to the horses one of them had broken his cord of 5 strands of
Elkskin and had gone off spanseled.[5] I sent several men in
surch of the horse with orders to return at 10 A.M. with or
without the horse being determined to remain no longer with
these villains. they stole another tomahawk from us this
morning I surched many of them but could not find it. I
ordered all the spare poles, paddles and the ballance of our
canoe put on the fire as the morning was cold and also that
not a particle should be left for the benefit of the indians. I
detected a fellow in stealing an iron socket of a canoe pole and
gave him several severe blows and mad[e] the men kick him
out of camp.[6] I now informed the indians that I would shoot



No Page Number
illustration

Sketch-map, by Clark, "given to me by a Skaddot, a Chopunnish & a
Skillute at the Falls of the Columbia, 18 April 1806."



No Page Number

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the first of them that attempted to steal an article from us.
that we were not affraid to fight them, that I had it in my
power at that moment to kill them all and set fire to their
houses, but it was not my wish to treat them with severity
provided they would let my property alone. that I would
take their horses if I could find out the persons who had stolen
the tommahawks, but that I had reather loose the property
altogether than take the ho[r]se of an inosent person, the
chiefs [who] were present hung their heads and said nothing.
at 9 A.M. Windsor returned with the lost horse, the others
who were in surch of the horse soon after returned also. the
Indian who promised to accompany me as far as the Chopunnish
country produced me two horses one of which he politely
gave me the liberty of packing. we took breakfast and departed
a few minutes after 10 OClock. having nine horses
loaded and one which Bratton rode not being able as yet to
march; the two canoes I had dispatched early this morning.
at 1 P.M. I arrived at the Enesher Village where I found
Capt. Clark and party; he had not purchased a single horse.
he informed me that these people were quite as unfriendly as
their neighbours the Skillutes, and that he had subsisted since
he left me on a couple of platters of pounded roots and fish
which an old man had the politeness to offer him. his party
fared much better on dogs which he purchased from those
people. the man resided here from whom I had purchased
the horse which ran off from me yesterday. I had given him
a large kettle and a knife in exchange for that horse which I
informed him should be taken from him unles he produced
me the lost horse or one of equal value in his stead, the latter
he prefered and produced me a very good horse which I very

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cheerfully received. we soon made the portage with our canoes
and baggage and halted about 1/2 a mile above the Village
where we graized our horses and took dinner on some dogs
which we purchased of these people. after dinner we proceeded
on about four miles to a village of 9 mat lodges of the Enesher
a little below the entrance of Clark's river (Towanahiooks) [Des
Chutes] and encamped; one of the canoes joined us the other
not observing us halt continued on. we obtained two dogs
and a small quantity of fuel of these people for which we were
obliged to give them a higher price than usual. our guide
continued with us, he appears to be an honest sincere fellow.
he tells us that the indians a little above will treat us with
much more hospitality than those we are now with. we purchased
another horse this evening but his back is in such a
horid state that we can put but little on him; we obtained
him for a trifle, at least for articles which might be procured
in the U' States for 10 shillings Virga Cory. we took the precaution
of piqu[i]ting and spanseling our horses this evening
near our camp.

 
[5]

Spancel: to fasten the legs of a horse, to prevent it from kicking (provincial
English).—Century Dictionary.

[6]

Wood here is very scarce, as the Columbia plains have commenced. Several
of the men went up to the village with their buffaloe robes, to dispose of them for
horses. . . . An Indian stole some iron articles from among the men's hands; which
so irritated Captain Lewis that he struck him; which was the first act of the kind,
that had happened during the expedition. The Indians, however, did not resent it.—
Gass (pp. 291, 2, 92).

In this connection, Coues says (L. and C., iii, p. 959) that the tribes at the Dalles
and the Cascades of the Columbia were always thievish and murderous, since first
known by white men, until very recent years; and ascribes this to the advantage
given them by the difficulties of navigation at those points. Cf. the similar character
of the tribe living at Allumette Island, in the Ottawa River (Jes. Relations, v, p. 291,
ix, 247, 271–275, x, 77).—Ed.

[Clark, first draft:]

April 21st. 1806

a fair cold morning I find it useless to offer any art[i]cles
or attempt to trade at this village and therefore deturmine to
[blank space in MS.] before I rose the house was crowded
with Indians to smoke I gave them none. they are well
supplied with straw & bark bags ready to hold their pounded
fish. at 12 oClock the advance of the party from below arived
and soon after the canoes all things were taken above the falls
& 2 canoes, turned out the horse[s] and cooked & Eat 2 dogs
which we purchased of the nativs, purchased one horse for
which we are to give a kittle which was given by us to a man
for a horse 3 days past &c. the horse was either taken or
strayed off. The Chief from below came up and appeared
concerned for what had been done at his village (See journal)

a[t]'4 P M loaded up & set out the canoes also proceed
on about 3 miles opposit to the mouth of Clark river, and an
Indian man who has attached himself to us and who has lent


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us a horse to pack & lives near the Rocky mountains. he
told us that as the day was far spent we had better camp at
a village of 9 Lodges a little off the road opsd. the River Clarks[7]
This river has a great falls above 2 forks on its West side.
we formed a camp purchased some wood & 3 dogs for which
we gave pewter buttons which buttons we had made &c. but
fiew Indians with us to day. this evening purchased an old
horse and tied up all the horses when we went to bed Those
are the same people with those below at the falls. See journal
for the next day

Skad-dat a ill looking people reside to the N about 18 or
20 miles they played against the Skillutes a game they call
[blank] 9 of a side and took all the beeds & other articles

Also a Single game with 2 black & 2 white sticks under a
kind of hat. 2 men played this game is intricit and each party
has 4 pegs to count it

The former game is played with 2 bones or sticks about the
size of a large quill and 2 inches long passing from one hand
to the other and the adverse party guess. See description
before mentioned. The nations above at the falls also play
this game and bet high

 
[7]

This name was added later.—Ed.

[Clark, second draft:]

Monday 21st.. April 1806

A fair cold morning I found it useless to make any further
attempts to trade horses with those unfriendly people who only
crowded about me to view and make their remarks and smoke,
the latter I did not indulge them with to day. at 12 oClock
Capt Lewis and party came up from the Skillutes Village with
9 horses packed and one which bratten who was yet too weak
to walk, rode, and soon after the two small canoes also loaded
with the residue of the baggage which could not be taken
on horses. we had every thing imediately taken above the
falls. in the mean time purchased 2 Dogs on which the party
dined. whilst I remained at the Enesher Village I subsisted
on 2 platters of roots, some pounded fish and sun flower seed
pounded which an old man had the politeness to give me in
return for which I gave him several small articles.


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Capt. Lewis informed me that imediately after I left him the
nativs began to steal and had stolen Tomahawks of the party,
and in the course of the night had let our horses loose he had
burnt one and sold 2 of the largest canoes for beeds, the other
2 brought on. an indian was detected in stealing a socket and
was kicked out of camp. Capt L informed the Indians that
the next man who attempted to steal should be shot and
thretened them and informed them that he could kill them
in a moment and set their town on fire if he pleased. but it
was not his desire to hurt them severly if they would let the
property of the party along. the Chiefs hung their heads and
said nothing. he lost the horse that was given for a large
kittle, and a Chopunnish man lent a horse to carry a load and
accompanied the party. The man who we had reason to
believe had stolen the horse he had given for the Kittle we
thretened a little and he produced a very good horse in the
place of that one which we chearfully receved. After dinner
we proceeded on about 4 miles to a village of 9 Mat Lodges
of the Enesher, a little below the enterance of To war nah hi
ooks
river and encamped: one of the canoes joined us, the
other not haveing observed us halt continued on. We obtained
2 Dogs and a small quantity of fuel of those people for which
we were obliged to give a higher price than usial, our guide
continued with us, he appears to be an honest fellow. he tels
us that the indians above will treat us with much more hospitallity
than those we are now with. we purchased another
horse this evening but his back is in such a horrid state that
we can put but little on him; we obtained him for a triffe, at
least for articles which might be precured in the U. States for
10/ Virga. currency. we took the precaution of picqueting and
Spancelling our horses this evening near our camp. the evenning
cold and we could afford only one fire.

[Lewis:]

Tuesday April 22ed 1806.

Last night two of our horses broke loos from the picquits
and straggled off some little distance, the men who had charge
of them fortunately recovered them early. at 7 A.M. we set
out having previously sent on our small Canoe with Colter and


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Potts. we had not arrived at the top of a hill over which the
road leads opposite the village before Charbono's horse threw
his load, and taking fright at the saddle and robe which still
adhered, ran at full speed down the hill, near the village he
disengaged himself from the saddle and robe, an indian hid the
robe in his lodge. I sent our guide and one man who was
with me in the rear to assist Charbono in retaking his horse
which having done they returned to the village on the track of
the horse in surch of the lost articles they found the saddle but
could see nothing of the robe the Indians denyed having seen it;
they then continued on the track of the horse to the place from
whence he had set out with the same success, being now confident
that the indians had taken it I sent the Indian woman
on to request Capt. C. to halt the party and send back some
of the men to my assistance being determined either to make
the indians deliver the robe or birn their houses. they have
vexed me in such a manner by such repeated acts of villany
that I am quite disposed to treat them with every severyty,
their defenseless state pleads forgivness so far as rispects their
lives. with this resolution I returned to their village which I
had just reached as Labuish met me with the robe which he
informed me he found in an Indian lodg hid behind their
baggage. I now returned and joined Capt. Clark who was
waiting my arrival with the party. the Indian woman had not
reached Capt. C. untill about the time I arrived and he returned
from a position on the top of a hill not far from where
he had halted the party. from the top of this emmenense
Capt. C. had an extensive view of the country. he observed
the range of mountains in which Mount Hood stands to continue
nearly south as far as the eye could reach. he also
observed the snow-clad top of Mount Jefferson which boar
S. 10.W. Mount Hood from the same point boar S. 30.W.
the tops of the range of western mountains are covered with
snow. Capt. C. also discovered some timbered country in a
Southern direction from him at no great distance. Clarks
river (Towarnahiooks) which mouths immediately opposite this
point of view forks at the distance of 18 or 20 miles from
hence, the wright hand fork takes it[s] rise in mount Hood,

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and the main branch continues it's course to the S.E. (10 or 12
miles higher up another fork comes in from Mt. Jefferson
)[8] we now
made the following regulations as to our future order of march
(viz) that Capt. C. & myself should devide the men who were
disencumbered by horses and march alternately each day the
one in front and the other in rear. haveing divided the party
agreeably to this arrangement, we proceeded on through an
open plain country about 8 miles to a village of 6 houses of
the Eneshur nation, here we observed our 2 canoes passing
up on the opposite side; the wind being too high for them to
pass the river they continued on. we halted at a small run
just above the village where we dined on some dogs which we
purchased of the Inhabitants and suffered our horses to graize
about three hours. there is no timber in this country we are
obliged to purchase our fuel of the natives, who bring it from
a great distance. while we halted for dinner we purch[ased] a
horse. after dinner we proceeded on up the river about 4
miles to a village of 7 mat lodges of the last mentioned nation.
here our Chopunnish guide informed us that the next village
was at a considerable distance and that we could not reach it
tonight. the people at this place offered to sell us wood and
dogs, and we therefore thought it better to remain all night.[9]
a man b[e]longing to the next village above proposed exchanging
a horse for one of our canoes, just at this moment one of
our canoes was passing, we hailed them and ordered them to
come over but the wind continued so high that they could not
join us untill after sunset and the Indian who wished to exchange
his horse for the canoe had gone on. Charbono purchased
a horse this evening, we obtained 4 dogs and as much
wood as answered our purposes on moderate terms. we can
only afford ourselves one fire, and are obliged to lie without
shelter, the nights are cold and days warm. Colter and Pots
had passed on with their canoe.

 
[8]

Probably White River, and Warm Spring River, large western affluents of the
Des Chutes. The north fork of the former might have been seen from the outlook;
knowledge of the latter doubtless came from Indians.—Ed.

[9]

On the Washington side (Klikitat Co.), a short distance below the John Day
River (not to be confounded with another of that name near the mouth of the Columbia).—Ed.


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[Clark:]

Tuesday 22nd.. of April 1806

last night 2 of our horses broke loose and strayed of[f] at a
short distance, at 7 oClock we loaded up and set out, haveing
previously sent off the canoe with Colter and Potts we
had not arived at the top of the hill which is 200 feet before
Shabonos horse threw off his load and went with great speed
down the hill to the Village where he disengaged himself of
his Saddle & the robe which was under it, the Indians hid
the robe and delayed Capt. Lewis and the rear party some time
before they found the robe which was in a lodge hid behind
their baggage, and took possession of it. dureing the time the
front of the party was waiting for Cap Lewis, I assended a high
hill from which I could plainly see the range of mountains
which runs South from Mt. Hood as far as I could see. I also
discovered the top of Mt. Jefferson which is covered with snow
and is S 10°. W. Mt. Hood is S. 30° W. the range of mountains
are covered with timber and also Mt Hood to a sertain
hite. The range of mountains has snow on them. I also discovered
some timbered land in a S. derection from me, short
of the mountains. Clarks river which mouthes imediately
opposit to me forks at about 18 or 20 miles, the West fork
runs to the Mt Hood and the main branch Runs from S.E.
after Capt Lewis came up we proceeded on through a open
ruged plain about 8 miles to a Village of 6 Houses on the
river. here we observed our 2 canoes passing up on the opposit
Side, and the wind too high for them to join us. I halted
at the mouth of a run above the village near some good grass
to let the horses graze and for the party to dine. Sent to the
huts and purchased a dog & some wood. dureing the time
the party was takeing dinner we purchased one horse. after
we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7
mat Lodges here our Chopunnish Guide informed me that
the next Villg was at some distance and that we could not get
to it to night, and that there was no wood to be precured on
this side. a man offered to sell us a horse for a canoe. just
at the moment we discovered one of our canoes on the opposit
side. we concluded to camp here all night with the expectation
of precureing some horses. Sent and purchased some wood


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and 4 dogs & Shapellell. Shabono purchased a hors for which
he gave a red rapper, shirt, ploom & Tomahawk &c. the party
purchased a great quantity of Chapellell and some berries for
which they gave bits of Tin and small pieces of cloth & wire
&c. had our horses led out and held to grass untill dusk when
they were all brought to camp, and pickets drove in the ground
and the horses tied up. we find the horses very troublesom
perticularly the stud which compose 10/l3 of our number of
horses. the air I find extreemly cold which blows continually
from Mt. Hoods snowey regions, those Indians reside in small
Lodges built of the mats of Grass, flags &c. and crouded with
inhabitents, who speak a language somewhat different from
those at the falls. their dress habits and appearance appear
to be very much the same with those below. we made 14
miles to day with the greatest exertion. Serjt. Gass & R. Fields
joined us with one canoe this evening. the other canoe with
Colter & pots is a head.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday April 23rd. 1806.

At day light this morning we were informed that the two
horses of our Interpreter Charbono were absent; on enquiry
it appeared that he had neglected to confine them to picqu[i]ts
as had been directed last evening. we immediately dispatched
Reubin Feilds and Labuish to assist Charbono in recovering
his horses. one of them was found at no great distance and
the other was given over as lost. at 8 A.M. Reubin Feilds
and Sergt. Gass proceeded in the canoe. at 10 Labuish and
Charbono returned unsuccessfull, they had gone back on the
road nearly to the last village and su[r]ched the plains on either
hand to a considerable distance. our remaining longer would
have prevented our making a timely stage which in our situation
is all important; we therefore determined to proceed
immediately to the next village which from the information
of our guide will occupy the greater part of the day to reach.
at eleven OCk. we loaded our horses and set out. during the
time we were detained this morning we had two packsaddles
made. we continued our march along a narrow rocky bottom


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on the N. side of the river about 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum
Village of 12 temperary mat lodges near the Rock rapid.[10]
these people appeared much pleased to see us, sold us 4 dogs
and some wood for our small articles which we had previously
prepared as our only resource to obtain fuel and food through
those plains. these articles con[s]isted of pewter buttons, strips
of tin iron and brass, twisted wire &c. we also obtained some
shap-pe-lell newly made from these people. here we met with
a Chopunnish man on his return up the river with his family
and about 13 head of horses most of them young and unbroken.
he offered to hire us some of them to pack as far [as] his nation,
but we prefer bying as by hireing his horses we shal have the
whole of his family most probably to mentain. at a little distance
below this village we passed five lodges of the same
people who like those were waiting the arrival of the salmon.
after we had arranged our camp we caused all the old and brave
men to set arround and smoke with us. we had the violin
played and some of the men danced; after which the natives
entertained us with a dance after their method. this dance
differed from any I have yet seen. they formed a circle and
all sung as well the spectators as the dancers who performed
within the circle, these placed their sholders together with
their robes tightly drawn about them and danced in a line from
side to side, several parties of from 4 to seven will be performing
within the circle at the same time. the whole concluded
with a premiscuous dance in which most of them sung and
danced. these people speak a language very similar to the
Chopunnish whome they also resemble in their dress their
women wear long legings mockersons shirts and robes. their
men also dress with legings shirts robes and mockersons.
after the dance was ended the indians retired at our request
and .we retired to rest. we had all our horses side hubbled
and turned out to graize; at this village, a large creek falls in
on the N. side which we did not observe as we decended the

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river, the river is by no means as rapid as when we decended
or at least not obstructed with those dangerous rapids the water
at present covers most of the rocks in the bed of the river.
the natives promised to barter their horses with us in the
morning we therefore entertained a hope that we shall be
enabled to proceede by land from hence with the whole of our
party and baggage. came 12 miles by land. the sands made
the march fatieguing.

 
[10]

In the evening, we met the party at a large village of the Wal-la-waltz nation,
on the north side of the river.—Gass (p. 294).

Coues thinks that the Wah-how-pums were the Klikitats, a Shahaptian tribe. The
stream where the party encamped is called Rock Creek.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Wednesday 23rd. 1806

At day light this morning we were informed that the two
horses of our interpreter Shabono were missing on enquirey
we were informed that he had neglected to tie up his horses as
derected last evening. we imediately dispatch him, R. Fields
& Labiech in serch of the horses, one of them were found at
no great distance. the other was not found. R. Fields retd.
without finding the horse set out with Sergt Gass in the
Small Canoe at about 8 A M. at 10 Shabono and Labiech
returned also unsucksessfull they had went on the back tract
nearly to the last Village and took a circle around on the
hills, as our situation was such that we could not detain for
a horse, which would prevent our makeing a timely stage which
is a great object with us in those open plains, we concluded to
give up the horse and proceed on to the next village which we
were informed was at some distance and would take us the
greater part of the day. at 11 A.M. we packed up and set
out and proceeded up on the N. Side of the Columbia on a
high narrow bottom and rockey for 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum
village near the rock rapid of 12 temporary mat Lodges,
those people appeared pleased to see us. they sold us 4 dogs
some shapollell and wood for our small articles such as awls
pieces of Tin and brass. we passed several Lodges on the
bank of the river where they were fixed waiting for the salmon.
I over took a Choponish man whome I had seen at the long
[narrows], and who had found a bag of our powder and
brought it to me at that place. this man had his family on
the [blank space in MS.] and about 13 head of horses which


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appeared young and unbroke. his spous as also that of the
other gave me a cake of Chapellell and proceeded on with me
to the Wahhowpum village and formed his camp near us.
we caused all the old & brave men to set around and smoke
with us. we caused the fiddle to be played and some of the
men danced. after them the nativs danced. they dance different
from any Indians I have seen. they dance with their
sholders together and pass from side to side, defferent parties
passing each other. from 2 to 7 and 4 parties danceing at the
same time and concluding the dance by passing promiscuisly
throu[gh] & between each other, after which we sent of [f]
the Indians and retired to bed. Those people speak a language
very similar to the Chopunish and with a very inconsiderable
difference. their dress and appearance is more like those of
the Great falls of the Columbia. we had all our horses side
hobbled and let out to feed. at this village a large creek falls
in on the N. side which I had not observed as I decended the
river. the river is by no means as rapid as it was at the time
we decended. The nativs promised to give us a horse for one
of our canoes, and offer to sell us another for a scarlet robe
which we have not at present. Shabono made a bargin with
one of the Indian men going with us, for a horse for which he
gave his shirt, and two of the leather sutes of his wife. The
sand through which we walked to day is so light that [it]
renders the march very fatigueing. made 12 miles by land.

[Lewis:]

Thursday April 24th. 1806.

We were up early this morning and dispatched the men in
surch of our horses, they were all found in a little time except
McNeal's. we hired an indian to surch for this horse it was
one in the evening before he returned with him. in the intermediate
time we had 4 packsaddles made purchased three
horses of the Wah-howpums, and hired three others of the
Chopunnish man who accompanys us with his family and
horses. we now sold our canoes for a few strands of beads,
loaded up and departed at 2 P. M. the natives had tantalized
us with an exchange of horses for our canoes in the first
instance, but when they found that we had made our arrangements


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to travel by land they would give us nothing for them
I determined to cut them in peices sooner than leave them
on those terms, Drewyer struck one of the canoes and split of
[f] a small peice with his tommahawk, they discovered us
determined on this subject and offered us several strands of
beads for each which were accepted. we proceeded up the
river between the hills and it's Northern shore, the road was
rocky and sandy alternately, the road difficult and fatieguing.
at 12 Ms. we arrived at a village of 5 lodges of the Met-cow-wes,
having passed 4 lodges at 4. and 2 at 2 Ms. further.
we rem[a]ined all night near the Met-cow-we lodges about 2
miles below our encampment of the [blank space in MS.] of
October last;[11] we purchased three dogs and some shappellel
of these people which we cooked with dry grass and willow
boughs. many of the natives pased and repassed us today on
the road and behaved themselves with distant rispect towards
us. most of the party complain of the soarness of their feet
and legs this evening; it is no doubt caused by walking over
the rough stones and deep sands after b[e]ing for some months
passed been accustomed to a soft soil. my left ankle gives me
much pain. I baithed my feet in cold water from which I experienced
considerable relief. The curloos are abundant in
these plains and are now laying their eggs. saw the kildee[r],
the brown lizzard, and a Moonax[12] which the natives had
petted. the winds which set from Mount Hood or in a
westerly direction are much more cold than those from the
opposite quarter. there are now [no—Biddle] dews in these
plains, and from the appearance of the earth there appears to
have been no rain for several weeks. we directed that the
three horses which we purchased yesterday should be hubbled
and confined to a picqut, and that the others should be disposed
of in the same manner they were last evening.

 
[11]

About opposite present site of Arlington, below Wood Creek. These Indians
belonged to the Met' how, a Salishan tribe.—Ed.

[12]

An appellation of the woodchuck, or marmot (Arctomys monax), current in
Virginia and other Southern States. It is also spelled "monax" and "moonack";
said to be an Indian word—probably derived from the Algonquian mona, in allusion
to its burrowing habits. Coues regards the animal referred to by Lewis as another
species, A. flaviventer.Ed.


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[Clark:]

Thursday 24th. April 1806

rose early this morning and sent out after the horses all of
which were found except Mc.Neals which I hired an Indian to
find and gave him a Tomahawk had 4 pack saddles made
ready to pack the horses which we may purchase, we purchased
3 horses, and hired 3 others of the Chopunnish man
who accompanies us with his family, and at 1 P.M. set out
and proceeded on through a open countrey rugid & sandy
between some high lands and the river to a village of 5 Lodges
of the Met-cow-we band haveing passed 4 Lodges at 4 miles
and 2 Lodges at 6 miles. Great numbers of the nativs pass
us on hors back maney meet us and continued with us to the
Lodges. we purchased 3 dogs which were pore, but the fattest
we could precure, and cooked them with straw and dry willow.
we sold our canoes for a fiew strands of beeds. the nativs had
tantelized us with an exchange of horses for our canoes in the
first instance, but when they found that we had made our
arrangements to travel by land they would give us nothing for
them. we sent Drewyer to cut them up, he struck one and
split her they discovered that we were deturmined to destroy
the canoes and offered us several strans of beeds which were
accepted most of the party complain of their feet and legs this
evening being very sore. it is no doubt caused by walking
over the rough stone and deep sand after being accustomed to
a soft soil. my legs and feet give me much pain. I bathed
them in cold water from which I experienced considerable relief.
we directed that the 3 horses purchased yesterday should
be hobbled and confined to pickquets and that the others
should be hobbled & spanceled, and strictly attended to by
the guard made 12 miles to day.

[Lewis:]

Friday April 25th. 1806.

This morning we collected our horses and set out at 9 A.M.
and proceeded on 11 ms. to the Village of the Pish-quit-pahs
[Pisquow] of 51 mat lodges where we arrived at 2 P.M. purchased
five dogs and some wood from them and took dinner.
this village contains about 7 hundred souls. most of those


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people were in the plains at a distance from the river as we
passed down last fall, they had now therefore the gratification
of beholding whitemen for the first time. while here they
flocked arround us in great numbers tho' treated us with much
rispect. we gave two medals of the small size to their two
principal Cheifs who were pointed out to us by our Chopunnish
fellow traveller and were acknowledged by the nation. we
exposed a few old clothes my dirk and Capt. C's swoard to
barter for horses but were unsuccessfull these articles constitute
at present our principal stock in trade. the Pish-quit-pahs
insisted much on our remaining with them all night, but
su[n]dry reasons conspired to urge our noncomplyance with
their wishes. we passed one house or reather lodge of the
Metcowwees about a mile above our encampment of the [blank
space in MS.]th of October last, the Pish-quit-pahs, may be
considered hunters as well as fishermen as they spend the fall
and winter months in that occupation. they are generally
pleasently featured of good statu[r]e and well proportioned.
both women and men ride extreemly well. their bridle is
usually a hair rope tyed with both ends to the under jaw of
the horse, and their saddle consists of a pad of dressed skin
stuffed with goats hair with wooden stirups. almost all the
horses which I have seen in the possession of the Indians have
soar backs. the Pishquitpah women for the most part dress
with short shirts which reach to their knees long legings and
mockersons, they also use large robes; some of them weare
only the truss and robe they brade their hair as before discribed
but the heads of neither male nor female of this tribe
are so much flattened as the nations lower down on this river.
at 4 P.M. we set out accompanyed by eighteen or twenty of
their young men on horseback. we continued our rout about
nine miles where finding as many willows as would answer our
purposes for fuel we encamped for the evening. the country
we passed through was much as that of yesterday. the river
hills are about 250 feet high and generally abrupt and craggey
in many places faced with a perpendicular and solid rock.
this rock is black and hard. leve[l] plains extend themselves
from the tops of the river hills to a great distance on either

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side of the river. the soil is not as fertile as about the falls,
tho' it produces a low grass on which the horses feed very
conveniently. it astonished me to see the order of their horses
at this season of the year when I knew that they had wintered
on the drygrass of the plains[13] and at the same time road with
greater severity than is common among ourselves. I did not
see a single horse which could be deemed poor and many of
them were as fat as seals. their horses are generally good.
this evining after we had encamped, we traded for two horses
with nearly the same articles we had offered at the village;
these nags Capt. C. and myself intend riding ourselves; haveing
now a sufficiency to transport with ease all our baggage
and the packs of the men. we killed six ducks in the course
of the day; one of them was of a speceis which I had never
before seen I therefore had the most material parts of it reserved
as a specimine, the leggs are yellow and feet webbed as those
of the duckandmallard.[14] saw many common lizzards, several
rattlesnakes killed by the party, they are the same common to
the U. States. the horned Lizzard is also common. had the
fiddle played at the request of the natives and some of the
men danced. we passed five lodges of the Wallâh wollâhs at
the distance of 4 miles above the Pishquitpâhs.

 
[13]

The fact that the Columbia plains bunch-grasses cure standing and retain their
nourishment has long been well known. The grass is mainly Agropyron spicatum,
(Pursh) Rydt. Lewis deserves credit here for his keen observation.—C. V. Piper.

[14]

The shoveler duck (Spatula clypeata).—Coues (L. and C., iii, p. 968).

[Clark:]

Friday 25th. of April 1806

This morning we collected our horses very conveniently and
set out at 9 A M and proceeded on to a village of Pish-quit-pahs
of 52 mat Lodges 11 miles this village contains about
700 soles here we turned out our horses and bought 5 dogs
& some wood and dined here we met with a Chief and gave
him a Medal of the small size. we passed a house a little
above the place we encamped on the 20th. of Octr. 1805. we
offered to purchase with what articles we had such as old
clothes &c. emence numbers of those Indians flocked about
us and behaved with distant respect toward us. we attempted


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to purchase some horses without suckcess. at 4 P. M set out.
I was in the rear and had not proceeded verry far before one
of the horses which we had hired of the Chopunnish, was taken
from Hall who I had directed to ride. he had fallen behind
out of my sight at the time. we proceeded on about 9 miles
through a country similar to that of yesterday and encamped
below the mouth of a small creek we passed at 4 miles a
Village of 5 Mat Lodges of the War-war-wa[15] Tribe. We made
a Chief and gave a Medal to a Chief of each of those two
tribes. great numbers of the nativs accompanied us to our
encampment. The Curloos are abundant in those places &
are now laying their eggs. Saw the Kildee the brown Lizzard,
and a Moonax which the nativs had petted. the winds which
set from Mount hood or in a westwardly direction are much
more cold than those from any other quarter. there are no
dews in these plains, and from the appearance of the earth
there appears to have been no rain for several weeks. The
pish-quit-pahs may be considered as hunters as well as fishermen
as they spend the fall & winter months in that occupation.
they are generally pleasently featured of good statu[r]e and
well proportioned both women and men ride extreamly well.
their bridle is usially a hair rope tied with both ends to the
under Jaw of the horse, and their saddles consist of a pad of
dressed skin stuffed with goats hair with wooden sturreps.
almost all the horses I have seen in the possession of the
Indians have sore backs. The pishquitpahs women for the
most part dress with short shirts which reach to their knees
long legins and mockersons, they also use long robes; some
of them weare only the truss and robe, they brade their hair
as before discribed but the heads of neither the male nor female
of this tribe are so much flattened as the nativs lower down on
this river. We were accompanied by 18 or 20 young men on
horsback. we continued our rout about 9 miles, where finding
as maney willows as would answer our purpose for fuel we
encamped for the night, the country we passed through was
sandy indifferent rocky and hills on the left. proceeded up
on the North Side the river hills are about 250 feet high &

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generally abrupt and craggey in maney places faced with a pirpendicular
and solid rock. this rock is black and hard. leavel
plains extend themselves from the top of the river hills to a
great distance on either side of the river. the soil is not as
fertile as about the falls tho it produces low grass on which the
horses feed very conveniently. it astonished me to see the
order of their horses at this season of the year when I know
they had wintered on dry grass of the plains and at the same
time rode with greater severity than is common among ourselves.
I did not see a single horse which could be deemed
pore, and maney of them was verry fat; their horses are
generally good. this evening after we had encamped we traded
for two horses with nearly the same articles we had offered at
the village, these nags Capt. L—s and myself intend rideing
ourselves; haveing now a sufficiency to transport with ease all
our baggage and the packs of the men. we killed 6 ducks in
the course of the day; one of them were of a species I had
never before seen. the legs yellow and feet webbed as those
of the duckinmallard. Saw great numbers of Common
Lizzards. Several rattle snakes, killed by the party, they are
the same as those common to the U. States. the Horned
Lizzard is also common. a chief over took us. we had the
fiddle played by the request of the nativs and some of the men
danced. I think those plains are much more sandy than any
which I have seen and the road is a bed of loose sand. made
20 miles.

 
[15]

The Walla Walla.—Ed.

[Lewis:]

Saturday April 26th. 1806.

This morning early we set forward and at the distance of
three miles entered a low level plain country of great extent.
here the river hills are low and receede a great distance from
the river this low country commenced on the S. side of the
river about 10 miles below our encampment of last evening.
these plains are covered with a variety of herbatious plants,
grass, and three speceis of shrubs specimines of which I have
preserved. at the distance of twelve miles we halted near a
few willows which afforded us a sufficient quantity of fuel to


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cook our dinner which consisted of the ballance of the dogs we
had purchased yesterday evening and some jirked Elk. we
were overtaken today by several families of the natives who
were traveling up the river with a number of horses; they
continued with us much to our annoyance as the day was worm
the roads dusty and we could not prevent their horses from
crouding in and breaking our order of ma[r]ch without using
some acts of severity which we did not wish to commit. after
dinner we continued our march through the level plain near
the river 16 ms. and encamped[16] about a mile below three
lodges of the Wollahwollah nation, and about 7 ms. above our
encampment of the 19 of October last. after we encamped
a little Indian boy caught several chubbs with a bone in
this form [ILLUSTRATION] which he substituted for a hook. these
fish were of about 9 inches long small head large
abdomen, small where the tail joined the body, the
tail wide long in proportion and forked, the back and ventral
fins were equadistant from the head and had each 10 bony
rays, the f[i]ns next the gills nine each and that near the
tail 12. the upper exceeded the under jaw, the latter is
truncate at the extremity and the tonge and pallet are smooth.
the colour is white on the sides and belley and a blewish brown
on the back. the iris of the eye is of a silvery colour and
puple black.[17] we covered ourselves partially this evening from
the rain by means of an old tent.

 
[16]

Immediately below the mouth of the Umatilla River, but on the Washington
side; at its mouth is a town of the same name.—Ed.

[17]

Coues identifies this as Mylochilus caurinus.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Saturday April 26th 1806

This morning early we proceeded on and at the distance of
three miles entered a low leavel plain country of great extent.
here the river hills are low and receed a great distance from the
river this low country commenced on the South Side about
10 miles below our Encampment of the last night, those
plains are covered with a variety of herbatious plants, Grass
and 3 species of shrubs. at the distance of 12 miles halted


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near some willows which afforded us a sufficent quantity of
fuel to cook our dinner which consisted of the ballance of the
dogs we had purchased yesterday evening and some jerked
Elk. we were overtaken to day by several families of the
nativs who' were traveling up the river with a Numr. of horses;
they continued with us much to our ennoyance as the day was
worm the roads dusty and we could not prevent their horses
crouding in and breaking our order of March without useing
some acts of severity which we did not wish to commit. after
dinner we continued our march through a leavel plain near
the river 16 miles and encamped about a mile below 3 Lodges
of the fritened band of the Wallahwallah nation, and about
7 miles above our encampment of the 19th. of Octr. last. after
we encamped a little Indian boy cought several chubbs with a
bone in this form [ILLUSTRATION] which he substituted for a hook.
those fish were of about 9 inches long. we covered
our selves perfectly this evening from the rain by means of an
old tent. Saw a Goat and a small wolf at a distance to day.
made 28 miles.

[Lewis:]

Sunday April 27th. 1806.

This morning we were detained untill 9 A.M. in consequence
of the absence of one of Charbono's horses. the
horse at length being recovered we set out and [passed above
our camp a small river called Youmalolam riv.
& to] at the distance
of fifteen miles passed through a country similar to that
of yesterday; the hills at the extremity of this distance again
approach the river and are rocky abrupt and 300 feet high.
we ascended the hill and marched through a high plain 9 miles
when we again returned to the river, I now thought it best
to halt as the horses and men were much fatiegued altho we
had not reached the Wallahwollah village as we had been led
to beleive by our guide who informed us that the village was
at the place we should next return to the river, and the consideration
of our having but little provision had been our inducement
to make the march we had made this morning. we
collected some of the dry stalks of weeds and the stems of a


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shrub which resembles the southernwood; made a small fire
and boiled a small quantity of our jerked meat on which we
dined; while here the principal Cheif of the Wallahwallahs
joined us with six men of his nation. this Cheif by name
Yel-lept! had visited us on the morning of the 19 of October
at our encampment a little below this place; we gave him at that
time a small medal,[18] and promised him a larger one on our
return. he appeared much gratifyed at seeing us return, invited
us to remain at his village three or four days and assured
us that we should be furnished with a plenty of such food as
they had themselves, and some horses to assist us on our
journey. after our scanty repast we continued our march
accompanyed by Yellept and his party to the village which we
found at the distance of six miles situated on the N. side of
the river at the lower side of the low country about 12 ms.
below the entrance of Lewis's river. This Cheif is a man of
much influence not only in his own nation but also among the
neighbouring tribes and nations. This Village consists of 15
large mat lodges, at present they seem to subsist principally
on a speceis of mullet which weigh from one to three lbs. and
roots of various discriptions which these plains furnish them
in great abundance, they also take a few salmon trout of the
white kind. Yellept haranged his village in our favour intreated
them to furnish us with fuel and provision and set the
example himself by bringing us an armfull of wood and a
platter of 3 roasted mullets, the others soon followed his
example with rispect to fuel and we soon found ourselves in
possession of an ample stock. they birn the stems of the
shrubs in the plains there being no timber in their neighbourhood
of any discription. we purchased four dogs of these

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people on which the party suped heartily having been on short
allowance for near two days. the Indians retired when we
requested them this evening and behaved themselves in every
rispect extreemly well. the indians informed us that there was
a good road which passed from the Columbia opposite to this
village to the entrance of the Kooskooske on the S. side of
Lewis's river; they also informed us, that there were a plenty
of deer and antelopes on the road, with good water and grass.
we knew that a road in that direction if the country would permit
it would shorten our rout at least 80 miles, the indians
also informed us that the country was level and the road good,
under these circumstances we did not hesitate in pursuing the
rout recommended by our guide whos information was corroberated
by Yellept & others. we concluded to pass our horses
over early in the morning.

 
[18]

"His medal found last year [1891?]on an island about mouth of Wallawalla
River." His village was in Yakima Co., Wash., opposite mouth of Walla Walla
River, where is town of Wallula.—Coues (L. and C., iii, pp. 970–971). See our
vol. iii, pp. 132–134.—Ed.

"The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly owned and liberated by
the Nez Percé Indians. They permitted their slaves to reside and to intermarry in their
families, and reasoning on the principles of natural justice, they concluded that it
was not right to hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated them, and they
are now a respectable tribe."—Rev. S. Parker (Journal of Exploring Tour, p. 249).

[Clark:]

Sunday April 27th. 1806

This morning we were detained untill 9 A M in consequence
of the absence of one of Shabono's horses, the horse being at
length recovered we set out and to the distance of 15 miles
passed through a country similar to that of yesterday. (passed
Muscle Shell rapid) and at the expiration of this distance
[the cliffs] again approached the river, and are rocky abrupt
and 300 feet high. we assended the hill and marched through
a high plain 10 miles where we again returned to the river.
we halted, altho we had not reached the Wal-lah-lah-lah Village
as we had been led to believe by our guide who informed us
that the village was at the place we should next return to the
river, and the consideration of our haveing but little provisions
had been our inducement to make the march we had made this
morning, we collected some of the dry stalks of weeds and
the stems of shrubs or weeds which resemble the southern
wood; made a small fire and boiled a small quantity of our
jerked meat on which we dined; while here we were met by
the principal Chief of the Wal-lah-wal-lah Nation and several
of his nation, this chief by name Yel-Iep-pet had visited us on
the morning of the 19th of Octr. at our encampment imediately
opposit to us; we gave him at that time a small medal, and


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promised him a large one on our return. he appeared much
gratified at seeing us return. he envited us to remain at his
Village 3 or 4 days and assured us that we should be furnished
with a plenty of such food as they had themselves, and some
horses to assist us on our journey. after our scanty repast we
continued our march accompanied by Yelleppit and his party
to the Village which we found at the distance of six miles,
situated on the North Side of the river, about 16 miles below
the enterance of Lewis's river. This Chief is a man of much
influence not only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring
tribes and nations. the village consists of 15 large
mat Lodges. at present they seam to subsist principally on a
species of mullet which weighs from one to 3 pds. and roots of
various discriptions which those plains furnish them in great
abundance. They also take a fiew salmon trout of the white
kind. Yelleppet haranged his village in our favor intreated
them to furnish us with fuel & provisions and set the example
himself by bringing us an armfull of wood, and a platter with
3 rosted mullets. the others soon followed his example with
respect to fuel and we soon found ourselves in possession of an
ample stock they burn the stems of the shrubs in the plains,
there being no timber In this neighbourhood of any discription.
we purchased 4 dogs of those people on which the party suped
hartily haveing been on short allowance for near 2 days. the
Indians retired when we requested them this evening and
behaved themselves in every respect very well. the Indians
informed us that there was a good road which passed from
the Columbia opposit to this Village to the enterance of
Kooskooske on the S. Side of Lewis's river, they also informed
us, there were a plenty of Deer and Antilopes on the road
with good water and grass. we knew that a road in that
direction if the country would permit It would shorten the rout
at least 80 miles. the Indians also inform us that the country
was leavel and the road good, under those circumstances we
did not hesitate in pursueing the rout recommended by our
guide and corroberated by Yelleppit and others. we concluded
to pass our horses over early in the morning. made 31 miles
to day.


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[Lewis:]

Monday April 28th 1806.

This morning early Yellept brought a very eligant white
horse to our camp and presented him to Capt. C. signifying
his wish to get a kettle but on being informed that we had
already disposed of every kettle we could possible spear he
said he was content with whatever he thought proper to give
him. Capt. C. gave him his swoard (for which he had expressed
a great desire
) a hundred balls and powder and some
s[m]all articles with which he appeared perfectly satisfyed. it
was necessary before we entered on our rout through the plains
where we were to meet with no lodges or resident indians that
we should lay in a stock of provision and not depend altogether
on the gun. we directed Frazier to whom we have
intrusted the duty of making those purchases to lay in as
many fat dogs as he could procure; he soon obtained ten.
being anxious to depart we requested the Cheif to furnish us
with canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining
with him this day at least, that he would be much pleased if
we would conse[n]t to remain two or three, but he would not
let us have canoes to leave him today. that he had sent for
the Chym nap′-pos[19] his neighbours to come down and join
his people this evening and dance for us. we urged the necessity
of our going on immediately in order that we might the
sooner return to them with the articles which they wished but
this had no effect, he said that the time he asked could not make
any considerable difference. I at length urged that there was
no wind blowing and that the river was consequently in good
order to pass our horses and if he would furnish us with canoes
for that purpose we would remain all night at our present
encampment, to this proposition he assented and soon produced
us a couple of canoes by means of which we passed our
horses over the river safely and hubbled them as usual. we
found a Shoshone woman, prisoner among these people by
means of whome and Sahcahgarweah we found the means of
conversing with the Wallahwallahs. we conversed with them
for several hours and fully satisfyed all their enquiries with


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rispect to ourselves and the objects of our pursuit. they were
much pleased. they brought several diseased persons to us
for whom they requested some medical aid. one had his knee
contracted by the rheumatism, another with a broken arm &c.
to all of which we administered much to the gratification of
those poor wretches. we gave them some eye-water which I
beleive will render them more essential service than any other
article in the medical way which we had it in our power to
bestoe on them. [Cap C Splintered the arm of the man which
was broke
.] soar eyes seem to be a universal complaint amonge
these people; I have no doubt but the fine sand of these
plains and river (fishing on the waters too) contribute much to
this disorder, ulsers and irruptions of the skin on various
parts of the body are also common diseases among them. a
little before sunset the Chymnahpos arrived; they were about
100 men and a few women; they joined the Wallahwollahs
who were about the same number and formed a half circle
arround our camp where they waited very patiently to see our
party dance. the fiddle was played and the men amused
themselves with dancing about an hour. we then requested
the Indians to dance which they very cheerfully complyed
with; they continued their dance untill 10 at night. the
whole assemblage of indians about 550 men women and
children sung and danced at the same time. most of them
stood in the same place and merely jumped up to the time
of their music. some of the men who were esteemed most
brave entered the spase arrond which the main body were
formed in solid column, and danced in a circular manner sidewise.
at 10 P.M. the dance concluded and the natives retired;
they were much gratifyed with seeing some of our party
join them in their dance.

 
[19]

A tribe known later as Yakima, resident on the river of that name; both they
and the Wallawallas were of the Shahaptian family.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Monday April 28th. 1806

This morning early the Great Chief Yelleppet brought a
very eligant white horse to our camp and presented him to
me, signifying his wish to get a kittle but being informed that


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we had already disposed of every kittle we could possibly spare
he said he was content with whatever I thought proper to give
him. I gave him my Swoard, 100 balls & powder and some
small articles of which he appeared perfectly satisfied. it was
necessary before we entered on our rout through the plains
where we were to meet with no lodges or resident Indians that
we should lay in a stock of provisions and not depend altogether
on the gun. we derected R. Frazer to whome we
have intrusted the duty of makeing the purchases, to lay in as
maney fat dogs as he could procure; he soon obtained 10,
being anxious to depart we requested the Chief to furnish us
with canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining
with him this day at least, that he would be much pleased if
we would consent to remain two or 3 days, but he would not
let us have canoes to leave him this day. that he had sent
for the Chim-na-pums his neighbours to come down and join
his people this evening and dance for us. We urged the
necessity of our proceeding on imediately in order that we
might the sooner return to them, with the articles which they
wished brought to them but this had no effect, he said that the
time he asked could not make any considerable difference. I
at length urged that there was no wind blowing and that the
river was consequently in good order to pass our horses and
if he would furnish us with canoes for that purpose we would
remain all night at our present encampment, to this proposition
he assented and soon produced a canoe. I saw a man
who had his knee contracted who had previously applyed to
me for some medisene, that if he would fournish another
canoe I would give him some medisene. he readily consented
and went himself with his canoe by means of which we passed
our horses over the river safely and hobbled them as usial.
We found a Sho-sho-ne woman, prisoner among those people
by means of whome and Sah-cah-gah-weah, Shabono's wife we
found means of converceing with the Wallahwallârs. we conversed
with them for several hours and fully satisfy all their
enquiries with respect to our Selves and the Objects of our
pursute. they were much pleased. they brought several
disordered persons to us for whome they requested some

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medical aid. one had his knee contracted by the Rhumitism
(whome is just mentioned above) another with a broken arm
&c. to all of whome we administered much to the gratification
of those pore wretches, we gave them some eye water which
I believe will render them more essential sirvice than any
other article in the medical way which we had it in our power
to bestow on them sore eyes seam to be a universal complaint
among those people; I have no doubt but the fine sands of
those plains and the river contribute much to the disorder.
The man who had his arm broken had it loosely bound in a
piece of leather without any thing to surport it. I dressed the
arm which was broken short above the wrist & supported it
with broad sticks to keep it in place, put [it] in a sling and
furnished him with some lint bandages &c. to Dress it in
future. a little before sun set the Chimnahpoms arrived;
they were about 100 men and a fiew women; they joined the
Wallahwallahs who were about 150 men and formed a half
circle arround our camp where they waited verry patiently to
see our party dance. the fiddle was played and the men
amused themselves with danceing about an hour. we then
requested the Indians to dance which they very chearfully
complyed with; they continued their dance untill 10 at night.
the whole assemblage of Indians about 350 men women and
children sung and danced at the same time. Most of them
danced in the same place they stood and mearly jumped up to
the time of their musick. Some of the men who were
esteemed most brave entered the space around which the main
body were formed in solid column and danced in a circular
manner side wise. at 10 P M. the dance ended and the nativs
retired; they were much gratified in seeing some of our party
join them in their dance. one of their party who made himself
the most conspicious charecter in the dance and songs,
we were told was a medesene man & could foretell things.
that he had told of our comeing into their country and was
now about to consult his God the Moon if what we said was
the truth &c. &c.


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[Lewis:]

Tuesday April 29th. 1806.

This morning Yellept furnished us with two canoes and we
began to transport our baggage over the river; we also sent a
party of the men over to collect the horses. we purchased
some dogs and shappellell this morning. we had now a store
of 12 dogs for our voyage through the plains. by 11 A.M.
we had passed the river[20] with our party and baggage but were
detained several hours in consequence of not being able to
collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too
late in the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that
we could not reach any water before night. we therefore
thought it best to remain on the Wallahwollah river[21] about a
mile from the Columbia untill the morning, and accordingly
encamped on that river near a fish wear. this wear consists of
two curtains of small willow switches matted together with
four lines of withs of the same materials exten[d]ing quite
across the river, parrallel with ea[c]h other and about 6 feet
assunder. those are supported by several parsels of poles
placed in the manner before discribed of the fishingwears.
these curtains of willow are either roled at one end for a few
feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at pleasure.
they take their fish which at present are a mullet only of from
one to five lbs., with small seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn
by two persons; these they drag down to the wear and raise
the bottom of the seine against the willow curtain. they have
also a small seine maniaged by one person it bags in the
manner of the scooping net; the one side of the net is confined
to a simicircular bow of half the size of a man's arm and about
5 feet long, the other side is confined to a strong string which
being attached to the extremities of the bow forms the cord
line to the simicircle. The Wallahwollah river discharges
itself into the Columbia on it's S. side 15 miles below the
entrance of Lewis's river or the S.E. branch. a high range of


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hills pass the Columbia just below the entrance of this river.
this is a handsome stream about 4 1/2 feet deep and 50 Yds. wide;
it's bed is composed of gravel principally with some sand and
mud; the banks are abrupt but not high, tho' it dose not
appear to overflow; the water is clear. the indians inform us
that it has it's s[o]urces in the range of mountains in view of
us to the E and S.E. these mountains commence a little to
the south of Mt. Hood and extending themselves in a N. Easterly
direction terminate near a Southe[r]n branch of Lewis's
river short of the Rocky mountains.[22] The Towannahiooks
river, river LaPage (You ma lol am R)[23] and the Wollah-wollah
rivers all take their rise on the N side of these mountains;
two principal branches of the first of these take their rise in
Mountains Jefferson and hood. these [Cascade] mountains
are covered with snow at present tho' do not appear high;
they seperate the waters of the Multnomah from those of the
Columbia river. they appear to be about 65 or 70 miles distant
from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us that
at some distance in the large plains to the South of those
[Blue] mountains there was a large river runing to the N.W.
which was as wide as the Columbia at this place which is
nearly one mile. this account is no doubt some what exagerated
but it serves to evince the certainty of the Multnomah
being a very large river and that it's waters are seperated from
the Columbia by those mountains and that with the aid of a
southwardly branch of Lewis's river which passes arrond the
eastern extremity of those mountains, it must water that vast
tract of country extending from those mountains to the waters
of the gulph of California. and no doubt it heads with the
Yellowstone river [waters of the Missouri] and the del Nord.
we gave small medals to two inferior cheifs of this nation and
they each presented us a fine horse in return we gave them
sundry articles and among others one of my case pistols and
several hundred rounds of amunition. there are 12 other

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lodges of the Wollah wollah nation on this river a little distance
below our camp. these as well as those beyond the Columbia
appear to depend on this fishing wear for their subsistence.
these people as well as the Chymnahpos are very well dressed,
much more so particularly their women than they were as we
decended the river last fall most of them have long shirts and
leggings, good robes and mockersons. their women wear the
truss when they cannot procure the shirt, but very few are
seen with the former at this moment. I presume the success
of their winters hunt has produced this change in their attire.
they all cut their hair in their forehead and most of the men
wear the two cews over each sholder in front of the body;
some have the addition of a few small plats formed of the earlocks
and others tigh a small bundle of the docked foretop in
front of the forehead. their ornaments are such as discribed
of the nations below and are woarn in a similar manner. they
insisted on our dancing this evening but it rained a little the
wind blew hard and the weather was cold, we therefore did not
indulge them.

 
[20]

At this point was old Fort Wallawalla (also called Fort Nez-percé). This is
now the town of Wallula.—Ed.

[21]

Here are a great many of the natives encamped on a large creek, which comes
in from the south, and those on the north side are moving over as fast as they can.
Gass (p. 298).

[22]

These are the Blue Mountains of northeastern Oregon and southeastern Washington.
Ed.

[23]

These rivers (in same order) are now known as Des Chutes, John Day, and
Umatilla.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Tuesday April 29th. 1806

This morning Yelleppit furnished us with 2 canoes, and
We began to transport our baggage over the river; we also
sent a party of the men over to collect our horses. we purchased
some deer [dogs] and chappellell this morning. we had
now a store of 12 dogs for our voyage through the plains. by
11 A. M. we had passed the river with our party and baggage
but were detained several hours in consequence of not being
able to collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it
was too late in the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp;
that we could not reach any water before night. we therefore
thought it best to remain on the Wallahwallah river about a
mile from the Columbia untill the morning, accordingly encamped
on the river near a fish wear. this weare consists of
two curtains of small willows wattled together with four lines
of withes of the same materials extending quite across the


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river, parralal with each other and about 6 feet asunder.
those are supported by several [ILLUSTRATION] parrelals of
poles placed in this manner those curtains
of willows is either roled at one end
for a fiew feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at
pleasure. they take their fish which at present are a mullet
only of from one to 5 pounds wt. with small seines of 15 or 18
feet long drawn by two persons; these they drag down to the
wear and rase the bottom of the seine against the willow curtain.
they have also a small seine managed by one person, it
bags in the manner of the scooping nets; the one side of the
net is confined to a simicircular bow of half the size of a mans
arm and about 5 feet long, the other side is confined to a
strong string which being attatched to the extremities of the
bow forms the cord line to the simicurcle. The Wallahwallah
River discharges it's self into the Columbia on it's South Side
15 miles below the enterance of Lewis's River, or the S. E.
branch. a range of hills pass the Columbia just below the
entrance of this river. this is a handsom Stream about 4 1/2
feet deep and 50 yards wide; its bead is composed of gravel
principally with some sand and mud; the banks are abrupt
but not high, tho' it does not appear to overflow; the water
is clear. the Indians inform us that it has it's source in the
range of Mountains in view of us to the E. and S. E. these
mountains commence a little to the South of Mt. Hood and
extend themselves in a S Eastwardly direction terminateing
near the Southern bank of Lewis's river short of the rockey
mountains. To-wan-na-hi-ooks river, river Lapage and [blank
space in MS.] River all take their rise in those mountains.
the two principal branches of the first of those take their rise
in the Mountain's, Jefferson and Hood. those mountains are
covered at present with Snow. those S W. mountains are
covered with Snow at present tho' do not appear high: they
seperate the waters of the Multnomah from those of the
Columbia river, they appear to be 65 or 70 miles distant
from hence. The Snake Indian prisoner informed us that at
some distance in the large plains to the South of those Mountains
there was a large river running to the N.W. which was as

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wide as the Columbia at this place, which is nearly 1 mile.
this account is no doubt somewhat exagurated but it serves to
evince the certainty of the Multnomah being a very large river
and that it's waters are seperated from the Columbia by those
mountains, and that with the aid of a Southwardly branch of
Lewis's river which pass around the Eastern extremity of those
mountains, it must water that vast tract of country extending
from those mountains to the Waters of the Gulf of Callifornia.
and no doubt it heads with the Rochejhone and Del Nord.

We gave small Medals to two inferior Chiefs of this nation,
and they each furnished us with a fine horse, in return we gave
them Sundery articles among which was one of Capt. Lewis's
pistols & several hundred rounds of amunition. there are 12
other Lodges of the Wallahwallah Nation on this river a short
distance below our Camp. those as well as those beyond the
Columbia appear to depend on their fishing weres [weirs] for
their subsistance. those people as well as the Chymnapoms
are very well disposed, much more so particular[ly] their
women than they were when we decended the river last fall.
Most of them have long shirts and leggins, good robes and
mockersons. their women were the truss when they cannot
precure the shirt, but very fiew are seen with the former at the
present. I prosume the suckcess of their winters hunt has
produced this change in their attire. they all cut their hair in
the forehead. and most of the men ware the two cews over each
sholder in front of the body; some have the addition of a fiew
small plats formed of the eare locks, and others tigh a small
bundle of the docked foretop in front of the forehead, their
orniments are such as discribed of the nativs below, and are
worn in a similar manner. they insisted on our danceing this
evening, but it rained a little the wind blew hard and the
weather was cold, we therefore did not indulge them. Several
applyed to me to day for medical aide, one a broken arm
another inward fevers and several with pains across their loins,
and sore eyes. I administered as well as I could to all. in
the evening a man brought his wife and a horse both up to
me. the horse he gave me as a present and his wife who was
verry unwell the effects of violent coalds was placed before me.


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I did not think her case a bad one and gave such medesene as
would keep her body open and raped her in flannel. left some
simple medesin to be taken. we also gave some Eye water 1
G[rain] of Ela v V. & 2 grs. of Sacchm Stry to an ounce of water
and in that perportion.[24] Great N°. of the nativs about us all
night.

 
[24]

2 grs. of Sacchm Stry = a grains of Saccharum Saturni = Sugar of Lead =
Acetate of Lead. This chemical was by the early chemists designated sugar of
lead, because of its sweet taste, In striking contrast to the acid taste of the acetic acid
in which the saturnum or lead oxide was dissolved. The acetate of lead being identified
as the second ingredient, the first ingredient, in all probability, is sulphate of
zinc. The capital "V" evidently is used as abbreviation for vitriolum or vitriol.
The name vitriol was applied to all salts of the common metals possessing a vitreous
lustre: blue vitriol = copper sulphate, green vitriol = iron sulphate, white vitriol =
zinc sulphate. Inasmuch as white vitriol was made from calamine (zinc carbonate)
by dissolving it in oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid), the name calaminae vitriolum
follows as another synonym for this substance. The "Ela" may, therefore, be
regarded as a corruption of Cal(aminae); the small "v" possibly serves as abbreviation
for venale, or commercial, a term commonly used in pharmacy to designate
articles that are not pure. Without the "Ela" the "v V" might be interpreted
as viride Vitriolum = green vitriol or iron sulphate. This, however, is not probable.
Externally, lead and zinc salts are astringents, the latter somewhat less powerful than
the former. Of the zinc salts, the most powerful are the "sulphate and acetate; of
the lead salts, the acetate is almost exclusively used for this purpose. They act
astringently by coagulating the albumin of the discharge, thus forming a protective
coat; they also coagulate the albumin in the tissues themselves, and contract the
small vessels. Plain solutions of these salts are applied to the eye in conjunctivitis,
the inflammation of the mucous membrane covering the anterior portion of the globe
of the eye.—Edward Kremers (director of School of Pharmacy, University of
Wisconsin).

See also documents concerning the medical and other equipment of the expedition,
in the Appendix, vol. vii, post.—Ed.

[Lewis:]

Wednesday April 30th. 1806.

This morning we had some difficulty in collecting our horses
notwithstanding we had hubbled and picquited those we obtained
of these people, we purchased two other horses this
morning and several dogs. we exchanged one of our most
indifferent horses for a very good one with the Chopunnish
man who has his family with him. this man has a daughter
new arrived at the age of puberty, who being in a certain situation
[mences] is not permitted to ascociate with the family but
sleeps at a distance from her father's camp and when traveling


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follows at some distance behind. in this state I am informed
that the female is not permitted to eat, nor to touch any article
of a culinary nature or manly occupation. at 10 A.M. we had
collected all our horses except the white horse which Yellept
had given Capt. C. the whole of the men soon after returned
without being able to find this horse. I lent my horse to
Yellept to surch Capt. C's about half an hour after he set out
our Chopunnish man brought up Capt. C's horse we now
determined to leave one man to bring on my horse when
Yellept returned and to proceed on with the party accordingly
took leave of these friendly honest people the Wollahwollahs
and departed at 11 A.M. accompanyed by our guide
and the Chopunnish man and family. we continued our rout
N.30.E. 14 ms. through an open level sandy plain to a bold
Creek 10 yds. wide, this stream is a branch of the Wallahwollah
river into which it discharges itself about six miles above the
junction of that river with the Columbia. it takes it's rise in
the same range of mountains to the East of the sources of the
main branch of the same. it appears to be navigable for
canoes; it is deep and has a bold current. there are many
large banks of pure sand which appear to have been drifted up
by the wind to the hight of 15 or 20 feet, lying in many parts
of the plain through which we passed today. this plain as
usual is covered with arromatic shrubs hurbatious plants and
a short grass. many of those plants produce those esculent
roots which form a principal part of the subsistence of the
natives. among others there is one which produces a root
somewhat like the sweet pittaitoe.[25] we encamped at the place
we intersepted the creek[26] where we had the pleasure once more
to find an abundance of good wood for the purpose of making
ourselves comfortable fires, which has not been the case since
we left rockfort camp. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter;
a part of the former we reserved for ourselves and gave the

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indians the ballance. these people will not eat the dog but
feast heartily on the otter which is vastly inferior in my estimation,
they sometimes also eat their horses, this indeed is
common to all the indians who possess this annimal in the
plains of the Columbia; but it is only done when necessity
compells them. the narrow bottom of this [Wallowwallow]
creek is very fertile, tho' the plains are poor and sandy. the
hills of the creek are generally abrupt and rocky. there is a
good store of timber on this creek at least 20 fold more than
on the Columbia river itself. it consists of Cotton wood, birch,
the crimson haw,[27] redwillow, sweetwillow, chokecherry yellow
currants, goosberry, whiteberryed honeysuckle rose bushes,
seven bark, and shoemate [sumac]. I observed the corngrass[28]
and rashes in some parts of the bottom. Reubin Feilds overtook
us with my horse. our stock of horses has now encresed
to 23 and most of them excellent young horses, but much the
greater portion of them have soar backs. these indians are
cruell horse-masters; they ride hard, and their saddles are so
illy constructed that they cannot avoid wounding the backs of
their horses; but reguardless of this they ride them when the
backs of those poor annimals are in a horrid condition.

 
[25]

This root, also mentioned May 4, 1806, post, may be Lomatium macrocarpum,
C. & R.—C. V. Piper.

[26]

On Touchet River. The expedition left the Columbia at Wallula, travelling by
land N. E. to the Clearwater, by what is generally known as the "overland route"
across eastern Washington. It is traced on Stevens's map in his Report Explor. for
R. R. to Pacific
, vol. xii.—Ed.

[27]

The birch is Betula fontinalis, Sargent. There are three haws on the Upper
Columbia. The common one, Crataegus douglasii, has black berries (the "purple
haw" of April 12, 1806); the other two, C. columbiana and C. piperi have red berries.
The first mentioned is very common; the other two are rare. I judge most of the
references relate to C. douglasii. The identification in Coues (L. and C., iii, p. 1041)
is surely wrong.—C. V. Piper.

[28]

See journal for June 5, vol. v, post.—Ed.

[Clark:]

Wednesday April. 30th. 1806

This morning we had some dificuelty in collecting our horses
notwithstanding we had hobbled & Picqueted those we obtained
of those people. We purchased two other horses this morning
and 4 dogs. we exchanged one of our most indiferent horses
for a very good one with the Choponnish man who has his
family with him. this man has a doughter now arived at the
age of puberty who being a certain situation, is not permited
to acoiate with the family but sleeps at a distance from her


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father's camp, and when traveling follows at some distance
behind. in this state I am informed that the female is not
permited to eat, nor to touch any article of a culinary nature or
manly occupation. at 10 A.M. we had collected all our horses
except the white horse which Yelleppit the Great Chief had
given me. the whole of the men haveing returned without
being able to find this hors, I informed the Chief and he
mounted Capt Lewis's horse and went in serch of the horse
himself. about half an hour after the Chopunnish man brought
my horse. we deturmined to proceed on with the party leaveing
one man to bring up Capt L.—s horse when Yelleppit
should return. We took leave of those honest friendly people
the Wallahwallahs and departed at 11 A.M. accompanied by
our guide and the Chopunnish man and family. we continued
our rout N. 30°. E. 14 ms. through an open leavel sandy Plain
to a bold creek 10 yards wide, this stream is a branch of the
Wallahwallah river, and takes its rise in the same range of
mountains to the East of the main branch. deep and has a
bold current. there are maney large banks of pure sand which
appear to have been drifted up by the wind to the hight of 20
or 30 feet, lying in maney parts of the plains through which
we passed to day. This plain as usial is covered with arromatic
shrubs, hurbatious plants and tufts of short grass. maney of
those plants produce those esculent roots which forms a principal
part of the subsistance of the nativs. among others there
is one which produces a root somewhat like the sweet potato.
We encamped at the place we intersepted the creek where we
had the pleasure once more to find a sufficency of wood for the
purpose of makeing ourselves comfortable fires, which has not
been the case since we left rock fort camp below the falls.
Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter. the narrow bottoms of
this creek is fertile, tho' the plains are pore & sandy. the
hills of the creek are generaly abrupt and rocky. there is some
timber on this creek. it consists of Cotton wood, birch. the
crimson haw, red willow, sweet willow, choke cherry, yellow
current, goose berry, white berried honey suckle, rose bushes,
seven bark, shoemate &c. &c. rushes in some parts of the
bottoms. R. Fields over took us with Capt Lewis's horse.

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our stock of horses have now increased to 23 and most of
them excellent young horses. but much the greatest part of
them have sore backs. those Indians are cruel horse masters;
they ride hard and their saddles illey constructed. &c. &c.

[Lewis:]

Thursday May 1st. 1806.

We collected our horses tolerably early this morning took
breakfast and set out a little after 7 A.M. we pursued the
indian road which led us up the creek about nine miles, here
the Chopunnish man w[h]o was in front with me informed that
an old unbeaten tract which he pointed out to the left was our
nearest rout. we halted the party and directed them to unload
and let their horses graize untill our guide came up who was
at some distance behind. I wished to obtain good information
of this newly recommended tract before I could consent to
leave the present road which seemed to lead us in the proper
direction was level and furnished with wood and water. when
the guide arrived he seemed much displeased with the other,
he assured us that the rout up the creek was the nearest, and
much the best, that if we took the other we would be obliged
to remain here untill tomorrow morning, and then travel a
whole day before we could reach water, and that there was no
wood; the other agreed that this was the case. we therefore
did not hesitate to pursue the rout recommended by the guide.
the creek, it's bottom lands, and the appearance of the plains
were much as those of [y]esterday only with this difference that
the latter were not so sandy. we had sent out four hunters
this morning two on foot and 2 on horseback they joined us
while we halted here. Drewyer had killed a beaver. at 1
P.M. we resumed our march, leaving the Chopunnish man
and his family; he had determined to remain at that place
untill the next morning and then pursue the rout he had
recommended to us. he requested a small quantity of powder
and lead which we gave him. we traveled 17 miles this evening,
making a total of 26 Ms. and encamped. the first 3 miles
of our afternoons march was through a similar country with
that of the forenoon; the creek bottoms then became higher


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and widened to the extent of from 2 to 3 ms. the hills on the
N. side were low but those on the opposite side retained their
hight. we saw a number of deer of which Labuish killed one.
the timber on the creek becomes more abundant and it's extensive
bottoms affords a pleasent looking country. the guide
informs us that we shall now find a plenty of wood water and
game quite to the Kooskooske. we saw a great number of the
Curloos, some Grains, ducks, prarie larks and several speceis
of sparrows common to the praries. I see very little difference
between the apparent face of the country here and that of the
plains of the Missouri only that these are not enlivened by
the vast herds of buffaloe Elk &c. which ornament the other.
the courses and distances of this day are N. 45 E. 9 M. and N.
75. E. 17. M. along the Northern side of this creek to our
encampment. some time after we had encamped, three young
men arrived from the Wallahwollah village bringing with them
a steel trap belonging to one of our party which had been
neglegently left behind; this is an act of integrity rarely witnessed
among indians. during our stay with them they several
times found the knives of the men which had been carelessly
lossed by them and returned them. I think we can justly
affirm to the honor of these people that they are the most
hospitable, honest, and sincere people that we have met with
in our voyage.

[Clark:]

Thursday May 1st.. 1806

This morning we collected our horses and made an early
start, haveing preveously sent a hea[d] 4 hunters with directions
to proceed up the Creek and kill every Species of game
which they might meet with. the Small portion of rain
which fell last night caused the road to be much former and
better than yesterday. the morning cloudy and cool. we
proceeded up the Creek on the N.E. Side through a countrey
of less sand and some rich bottoms on the creek which is partially
supplyed with small cotton trees, willow, red willow,
choke cherry, white thorn, birch, elder, [blank space in MS.]
rose & honey suckle. Great portion of these bottoms has


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been latterly burnt which has entirely distroyed the timbered
growth. at the distance of nine miles we over took our hunters,
they had killed one beaver only at this place the road forked,
one leaveing the creek and the corse of it is nearly North.
the Chopunnish who had accompanied us with his family informed
us that this was our best way. that it was a long distance
without water. and advised us to camp on the creek at
this place and in the morning to set out early. This information
perplexed us a little, in as much as the idea of going a
days march without water, thro an open sandy plain and on a
course 50°. out of our derection. we deturmined to unlode
and wate for our guide, or the Chopunnish man who had
accompanied us from the long Narrows, who was in the rear
with Drewyer our interpreter. on his arrival we enquired of
him which was the best and most direct road for us to take.
he informed us that the road pointed out by his cumerade was
through a open hilly and sandy countrey to the river Lewis's
River, and was a long ways around, and that we could not git
to any water to day. the other roade up the creek was a more
direct course, plenty of water wood and only one hill in the
whole distance and the road which he had always recomended
to us. Some words took place between those two men the latter
appeared in great pation mounted his horse and set out up
the creek. we sent a man after him and brought him back informed
him that we believed what he said and should imediately
after dinner proceed on the road up the creek with him. we
gave the former man some powder and ball which had been
promised him, and after an early dinner set out up the creek
with our guide leaveing the Chopunnish man and his family
encamped at the forks of the road where they intended to stay
untill the morning and proceed on the rout he had recommended
to us. We traviled 17 miles this evening makeing a
total of 26 mls. and encamped. the first 3 miles of our afternoon
march was through a simaler country of that of the fore
noon; the Creek bottoms then became higher and wider; to
the extent of from 2 to 3 miles. We saw several Deer of
which Labiech killed one. the timber on the Creek become
more abundant and less burnt, and its extensive bottoms afford

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a pleasent looking country. We saw a Great number of Curloos,
some crains, Ducks, prarie cocks, and several species of
sparrows common to the praries. I see very little difference
between the apparant face of the country here and that of the
plains of the Missouri, only that those are not enlivened by
the vast herds of Buffalow, Elk &c. which animated those of
the Missouri. The courses & distances of this day are N. 45°.
E. 9 mls. & N. 75°. E. 17 Miles allong the North Side of this
Creek to our encampment. sometime after we had encamped
three young men arrived from the Wallahwallah Village bringing
with them a steel trap belonging to one of our party which
had been negligently left behind; this is an act of integrity
rearly witnessed among Indians. dureing our stay with them
they several times found the knives of the men which had been
carefully lossed by them and returned them. I think we can
justly affirm to the honor of those people that they are the
most hospitable, honist and sincere people that we have met
with on our Voyage.