University of Virginia Library


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SCIENTIFIC DATA ACCOMPANYING
The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK

I. Geography

A. COURSES AND DISTANCES

THE courses and distances were usually inserted in the
journals at the close of each day's record; when so
given, they have been allowed to stand in the text.
In other places, they were grouped consecutively for a number
of days, or for some stretch of the route. In such cases, we
have transferred them from the text to this division of the
record, indicating the writer of each section and the codex
wherein found.—Ed.]

Distances of the Missouri and each days assending,[1] from the mouth

                         

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21  miles to St. Charles 
miles

83 
3¼ 
18 
10 
10 
18 
15½ 
104¾  To the Gasconnade River S. S. 
34 
17 
13 
138¾  Great Osarge River S. S. 
63½ 
17½ 
12 
14 
14 
201¼  Mine River South Side 
25  12 
13 
226¼  the two Rivers of Charlton N. S. 
19  10 
245¼  Old Missouri village N. S. 
254¼  Grand River North Side 
110 
12 
10 
17½ 
6¾ 
7½ 
10½ 
3½ 
11½ 
13 
9¾ 
364¼  To the Kanzas River South Sd
67 
10 
12 
11½ 
11¼ 
15 
431  To upper or 2nd. old Village of the Kanzas. S. S. 
49  10¾ 
12 
14 
12¼ 
480  To the Nordaway River N. S. 
30  14 
10 
510  To the Grand Nemahar River S. S. 
60  20½ 
9½ 
9¾ 
20¼ 
570  Baldpated Prarie North Side 
60  18 
10 
18 
14 
630  Mile = 210 Leagues to the Great River Platt on the
South Side. 
12  12 
642  To Camp [White Catfish July 22–28, 1804.] 

[Field notes and survey of the Great Falls of the Missouri,
made by Clark, June 17–19, 1805.—Ed.[2] ]

Courses of the Missouri from the commencement of the portage below
Portage River to the most South-Eastwardly bend above the Medicine
River, noting the particular Cataracts cascades and the hight they fall
as measured; together with an estimate of the decline of the water in
rapids &c. &c. Sept. [June] 17 & 18th. 1805. (S. E. Side)

     

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feet 
S.  9°. E  286  poles to the enterence of portage river 55}
yds. wide at 80 poles a rapid of 4 feet,
the computed decent of the water above
is 4 feet together makes 
10°. W.  280  Po: from the enterance of portage River up
the Lard Side of the Missouri, the computed
distance the water [falls] in this distance
is about 10 feet 
10 
10°. E  160  Po. d° . . d° . . d° . . d° . . Decent
of 
South  240  Po. d° . . d° . . d° . . d° computed
decent of 
18 
S.  81°. W.  400  Po. d° . . d° . . d° . . d° computed
decent of
passing a deep small rivene in this course. 
13 
S.  15°. W.  160.  Poles. the decent of the water within which
distance is about five feet river inclosed in
rocks 
75°. W.  80.  Poles. to the enterance of a Steep rivene
at which there is a fall of 3 feet which
aded to the probable decent of the water
in that distance 2 feet makes 
N.  82°. W.  340.  Poles. to the Grand Cataract of 87 feet 3/4
of an inch.
Computed decent of water in
this distance 6 feet. The river at this
Cataract 280 yards wide and just below 93
yards wide total 
93  3/4 
24°. W.  90  Poles. passing a fall of 2 feet purpinducular
which added to the estimated decent of 13
feet within the first 200 yds. next above the
Cataract makes a decent in this distance rather more than 
15 
19°. W.  80.  Poles. passing a rivene and cascade decent
about 
11°. W.  80  Poles. passing a Cascade of 4 feet, which together
with the probable decent of the
water 2 feet is 
31°. W  320  Poles. opposit to a rapid of 3 feet 6 inch fall
which added to the probable decent of the
water within this distance of 5 feet 6 inches is 
2616  river inclosed in rocks of a Dark colour  191  3/4 
52°. W.  178  Poles. through a handsom leavel plain, the
river makeing a bend to the right decent
of the water probably about three feet 
40°. W.  970  Poles. to a fall of 19 feet, below which
there is a deep rivene at the enterance of
which a fall of 5 feet which added to the
probable decent in this distance of 10 feet
makes 
34 
N.  84°. W.  102  Poles to the 2nd. Great Cataract of 47 feet 8
inches
the river at this Cataract is 473
yards wide and confined clifts of rocks 
47.8 
N.  86°. W.  135  Poles. passing a fall of 6 feet 7 inches which
added to the probable decent of the water
above the pitch of 47 feet 8 inches makes
a fall of 
14.7 
49°. W.  58  Poles along the river water verry rapid a
probable decline of 2 feet 
78°. W.  156  Poles. to a large fountain near the river
probable decent of the water in this distance
may be 3 feet 
25°. W.  124  Poles. on the river passing several small
rapids and swift water the probable decent
in this instance four feet 
35°. W.  240  Poles. passing a rock in the river an three
trees on the Lard. Bank the fall of the water
within this distance at least 8 feet 
58°. W.  88  Poles. up the river, the probable decent in
this distance Eighteen inches 
1.6 
40°. W.  80  Poles. to the upper pitch of 26 feet 5 inches
river is here 580 yards wide. to this fall
add the probable decent in this distance of
2 feet, also [o]ne pitch above of 5 feet, and
the decent from the head of the rapids of
18 feet exclusive of the 5 feet pitch makeing
in all 38 feet 5 inches fall 
51.5 
4747  poles Total Falls☞  360.2  3/4 
= 14 miles 3/4 and 27 poles 
S.  81°. W.  320  Poles to the head of the rapids passed a rivene 
S.  55°. W.  130  Poles along the river. low banks 
36°. W.  278  Poles to a tree on the edge of the water passd. a grove
at 120 poles opposit to which the river is 1400 yards
wide 
6°. W.  140  Poles. to a small grove at a rapid on Ld Side. 
64°. E.  78  Poles to the lower point of a timber in a deep bend. 
14°. E.  90  Poles to a tree in the bend opposit to some low timber. 
17°. W.  160  Poles to the river opposit to the enterance of Medicine
River which is 137 yards wide, and the Missouri
just above it is 300 yards wide. 
1°. W.  88  Poles opposit to the lower point of a Small Island. 
S.  45°. E  170  Poles. to some low timber near some old Lodges. 
S.  13°. E.  380  Poles. to the river opposit the lower point of White
Bear
Island 
N.  88°. E.  70  Poles. opposit to the lower point of a Second Island
which is small. 
N.  71°. E.  120  Poles. to a rockey hill side opposit to a third Island
which is seperated from the Lard Shore by a very
narrow chanel. 
25°. E  664  poles to a bend of the river, passing the upper points of
the 1st. & 3rd. Islands (at our camp) at 144 poles, and
flattery run at 284 further river wide still low banks. 
70°. E.  160  Poles to the top of a high hill near the moste extreme
S Easterly bend of the river. from this point the
Missouri bears S 85°. W. for about 10 miles. the
gap of the Mts. where the Missouri enters bears S.
25°. W. [blank space in MS.] miles and the Pinical
of the South Mts. bears N 84° E. 

☞from this Survey and estimate it results, that the Missouri experiences
a decent of 360 feet 2 inches and 3/4 in the distance of [14 3/4]
Miles and [27] Poles.

Portage No. 1

The course from the White Bear Islands above the portage N. 42°. E
4 miles leaveing the riveens of flattery run to the right. thence a course
to the South Extremity of a ridge North of the South Mountains for 8
miles & a half passing three riveens, the 2d. is willow run. 11 miles
from the Islands. Thence a course to the highest pinical of the North
Mountain, leaveing the riveens of Portage or red Creek to the right, &
the riveens of the river to the left to the mouth of Portage Creek 4
miles & a half, to the perogue which is on the river North Side &
nearly opposit the place we buried Sundery articles is 1 mile down the
river, The Swivel we hid under the rocks in a clift near the river a
little above our lower camp

Courses & Distance from White Bear Islands to the mouth of Portage Creek

             
42°. E  4 miles to a ellevated part of the Plain 
66°. E  3 miles passed the head of a Drean 
45°. E  4 miles to willow run 
N.  18 E.  4 miles passed the head of a Drean 
N.  10° W.  2 miles to the mouth of Portage Creek 
N.  9. W.  3/4 & 46 P. to the perogue on South side of the R. 
17 3/4 & 46 P. Portage through an open butifull plain 


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Course of the Missouri through the 1st. Rocky Mountain and distance
estimated.[3]

                                                   

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miles 
S.  20°. W.  3/4  to a high clift the mountain on L.S. passed the Pine
Island at 1/4 a Small run above on L.S. & the Ld. &
Std points. 
West  1/4  to a bend on the Stard Side High Clifts 
South  1/4  to a bend on the Larboard Side d° 
N.  60°. E  1/2  to a bend on the Starboard Side d°
passed an Island 
S.  20°. W.  1/2  to a bend on the Larboard Side d° 
West  1/2  to a bend on the Starboard Side d° 
S.  30°. E  to a bend on the Lard Side passd an Island L. 
West  1 1/4  to a bend on the Starboard Side 
S.  5° W  1/2  to a point of rocks in a Lard. bend 
N.  75°. W  3/4  to a bend on the Stard Side (Campd 17 July) Clifts 
S.  15 W  1 1/4  to a Lard bend a high Clift of M: 
West  1 1/4  to the mouth of Dearbourn's River Std. Side 80 yds.
wide & furnishes a considerable qty. of water & has a
gravelery bottom 
S.  45. W  2 1/2  to a Starboard bend 
S.  8°. E  6 1/2  to the Center of a bend on the Lard Side passing Several
Small bends passed a Small Creek on Lard. at 1
mile an Island on Std
S.  80°. W.  1/2  to a tree in the center of the Stard. bend 
S.  20°. W.  1 1/2  to the center of the Stard bend psd. an Isd
S.  70°. E  1/4  to a bluff in the Stard bend 
S.  75 W.  1 1/2  to the Center of the Std bend passing a Small Creek at
1/2 M on Std Side 
S.  5°. W  1/2  to the enterence of a large Creek 30 yards wide in the
Stard bend ordways creek 
S.  30° E  2 1/2  to the center of a bend on the Lard Side the vallie
now widens 
S.  40°. W.  3/4  to the center of a Stard Bend 
S.  85°. E  to the center of a Lard bend passing three short bends.
(campd. 18th July) 
South  1/4  to a pine tree on the Stard. Side bend 
S.  85° E  to the center of a Lard bend 
38°. W  to a pine in the Std. bend 
South  1 1/2  to the Center of the Stard. bend 
N.  10°. W.  2 1/2  to the Center of the Lard. bend 
S.  30 E  1 1/4  to the Center of the Stard. Bend 
S.  25°. E  4 1/2  to the Center of the Lard. Bend 
S.  28°. W  to the Center of the Stard. bend passing two Islands
near the commencement 
S.  60°. E  1 1/4  to the Center of a Stard. Bend 
N.  70° E  1 1/2  to the enterence of a Small Creek in a Lard bend passing
an Island near Stard Side 
S.  25° E  1 1/2  to a point of rocks in a bend on the Std. side those
rock[s] put in to the river on both Sides, are purpendicular
and about 1200 feet high, this place has So
Singular appearance that I call it the gate, the water
appears to have forced its way through this emence
body of Solid rock, and thrown on either Side below
Collums of rock mountains high 
S.  55°. E  1/4  to the Center of a Lard Bend 
10° W  3 1/2  to a bend on the Lard Side passing an Isld. at 1 1/4 in
Center of the river (campd. 19th July.) 
S.  40°. W  1/2  to a high rock in a Lard Bend here the high and perpundicular
rocks Cease and the Vallies widen to more
than their usial extent Since we have entered the
mountains 
S.  55°. W.  to the center of the Stard Bend at which place a large
Creek falls in behind Some Islands on the Stard Side
Potts Creek Indians set the Prarie on fire up this
Crk 
50 1/4 

Course of the Missouri from the Gate to the three forks.[4]

       

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S.  64°. E  2 1/2  to the center of the Lard Bend, passing two Islands,
the hills again the banks of the river at 1 3/4 miles 
S.  15°. E  1/4  to the center of a Starboard bend 
East  1 1/2  to the center of a Lard. Bend passed Some Islands on
the Lard Side 
S.  12°. E  1 1/2  to the Center of a Stard. Bend passing a Small Creek
on Lard. Side at 3/4 of a M. 
S.  50°. E  1 1/4  to the Center of a Lard. Bend 
S.  20° E  2 1/2  to the Center of a Stard. Bend 
S.  65 E  to a point in the Stard. Bend, passed three Islands at
1 m 
N.  75°. E  to the Center of a Lard. Bend passing an Island.
(Camped 20th July
S.  5°. W.  1/2  to a Lard. Point opsd. an Island 
S.  30°. E  to the center of a Lard Bend the hills now become
low and the Countrey opens on either Side. 
S.  25°. W.  to the center of a Stard. bend passing a large Island on
the Lard. Side 1 m 
S.  80°. E.  3 1/2  to a pt. in the Stard Bend passing a large Creek on
Stard. Side at 2 1/2 M Pryors vally Creek 28 yds
wide 
N.  40°. E  to the Center of a Lard. Bend 
65°. E  to the Center of a Stard. Bend 
S.  60° E  3 1/2  to the Center of a Stard. Bend, throughout this the
river is divided by a number of Small Islands near
the Stard. Side wide bottoms on the Lard. (Campd.
21st July
N.  75°. E.  2 1/4  to a Lard. Bend 1 m above a large Island 
34° E  to the center of a Stard. bend at the upper point of an
Island called onion Island 
S.  80°. E  1 1/2  to a Stard. bend passing Several Islands 
N.  45°. E  to a Lard. bend passing Several Islands 
25°. E  passing four long Circular bends, and Several large
Islands to a point of the Bluff Stard. Side a large
Creek Well timbered falls in on the Star. Side 3/4
of a mile below the extremity, I call White paint
Creek. 
S.  12°. E  to a Bluff point on the Stard. Side passing on a direct
line thro' a General bend the debth of which is 3
miles : within this general bend there are four
Smaller circular bends, bottoms continue wide the
river Crooked and full of Islands &c. Encamped
22 July 4 m Short of the distance of this course by
water. 
S.  20°. E  to a point of the Stard. Bluff 
N.  60° E  1 1/2  to a Lard. Bend passing a large Island on Stard
30 E  1 1/2  to a Stard. Bend passing the upper point of the Island
at 1/2 a mile. 
70°. E  1 3/4  to the Center of the Lard. Bend passing two out lets
to the river on the Stard
5°. E  1 1/2  to the lower point of an Island, the river 300 yards
wide at this place 
20°. E  to the center of a Lard bend passed an Isld
S.  10°. W  1 1/2  to the center of a Stard bend 
S.  80°. E  to a point in Stard bend 
N.  85° E  to a tree in the Center of the Lard. Bend 
S.  20° W.  to a Stard. Bend passing over a large Island comencing
at 2 miles, a Creek 
70° E  1 1/2  to a point of high timber on Stard. Side 
S.  20° W.  to Some dead timber in the Center of a Stard. bend.
(encamped 23d. July
S.  40°. E  to a Lard. bend passing between 2 large Islands 
50°. W.  1/2  to the Center of Stard. bend opposit an Island 
S.  15°. E  1 1/2  to a point of high timber in a bend on the Lard. Side. 
S.  40° W  1 1/4  to the Center of a Stard. Bend low Bluffs touching
the river at this point. 
South  3 1/2  to a Bluff Point in a Stard. bend, passing an Island on
Stard. Side 
S.  85°. E  1/2  to a Lard. Bend opposit opsd. a large Plain 
S.  30° E  to a Bluff point in Stard. Bend 
East  3/4  to a point in the Lard. bend passing a Small Island. 
30°. E  to the lower point of a large Island 
S.  85° E  1 1/2  to a tree in the Lard. Bend 
South  1/2  to a tree on the Stard. Shore opposit the upper point
of an Island 
S.  80. E  to the Center of a Lard. Bend passing the upper point
of an Island on Lard
S.  10°. W.  1 1/2  to the Center of a Stard. Bend passg an Island at 3/4 of
a mile 
East  to the Center of a Lard. bend passing two Small Islands
(Campd. 24th July) 
S.  25°. W.  to the Center of a Stard. Bend 
S.  10°. W.  1 1/4  to a point in a Stard. Bend passing a Small Island on
Lard. Side 
S.  5°. W.  3 1/2  to a point in a Stard. Bend 
S.  40°. E.  1 1/4  to a tree in the Stard. bend passing a point on Lard. at
1/2 a mile 
N.  80° E  2 1/2  to the a Stard Bend passing a Small Island at 1/2 a
mile Gass's Crick 
South  to the center of a Stard. Bend 
S.  75°. E  1 1/2  to a Bluff Point on Stard. here the river again enters
the mountains I believe it to be the 2d Chain of
Rocky Mts
S.  55°. E  to a point in a Lard Bend 
30°. E  1/2  to a point in a Lard Bend 
South  1/2  to a Clift of rocks in the Lard Bend. (Camped 25th
of July
N.  45°. W  1/4  to a object in the Stard. bend. 
S.  60°. W  to a point in Lard. bend passed four Small Islands. 
55°. W.  1/2  to the Center of a Stard. Bend 
S.  65°. E  to a Clift of rocks in a Stard. Bend passing 2 Small
Islands. 
N.  65°. E  to the enterence of a Creek in Lard. bend 
S.  15. E  to the enterence of a Small run in the Lard. bend the
hills here recede from R. call it Howards Creek 
S.  55°. W.  1 1/2  to the center of a Stard. bend 
S.  12 W.  2 1/2  to a point in the Stard. bend 
S.  15°. E  3 1/2  to a point of high timber on the Lard. passing 3 Islands
undr. Lard. Shore 
S.  25°. W.  to the Center of a Stard. Bend 
East  1 1/4  to the Center of a Lard. bend psd. Sdy. Isds
S.  20°. E  2 1/2  to the Centr of Lard bend psd. Sevrl.. Sm. IsldS. L.S. 
S.  48°. W.  1 1/2  to a rock in the Center of Lard. bend (Encamped 26th
July
N.  65°. W.  1/2  to the Center of Stard. bend passed an Isl'd. Std
South  1 1/4  to a Clift of high rock on Stard. here the river is
again confined between high hills 
S.  2°. E.  2 1/2  to the Center of a Lard. bend passd. Sml. Isd
S.  45°. W.  1 1/4  to the upper part of a high Clift of rocks in a Stard.
bend. opposit to the Mouth or enterence of the
East fork of the Missouri we call Gallitins River
70 yds. 
S.  45°. W.  1/4  to the junction of the North & Middle fork of of the
Missouri each of these streams is from 90 to 90
[originally written 40 to 60.—Ed.] yards wide
a Strong Current dischargeing much water. Middle
fork Maddisons River & the North fork Jeffersons
River we assended it (Encamped on N. fork the
27th. 28th
. & 29th July
130 1/4 


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Course and Distance up the Main North fork of the Missouri.[5]
(July 30th.)

                                                         

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miles 
N.  45°. W.  1/4  to a small Bayou in the Stard. Bend 
30 W.  1/2  to a Starboard bend 
20°. E  1/4  to a Larboard bend. encamped 27th. 28th. & 29th on
Lard in an island. 
N.  70° W.  1/4  to a Starboard bend 
S.  20 W  1/2  to a Std. bend passing an Island on Std. Side. 
S.  80° E  1/4  to a Larboard bend 
S.  50° W  1/2  to the lower point of an Island 
South  1/2  to a Lard. Bend 
S.  45°. W.  1/8  to a tree in the Lard Bend 
N.  45° W  1/4  to the upper point of an Island 
West  1/2  to bend on Lard. opposit an Island 
N.  60°. W  1/8  to a Chanel passing thro' the Island 
South  1/4  to a Lard bend opsd. an Island passed several Small
Bayoes Lard Side 
West  1/2  to the upper point of an Island passing a Bayou on the
Lard. Side 
S.  70°. W  1/4  to a Bayou on the Lard Side 
West  to the upper point of an Island passing the upper point
one other at 1/4, one at 3/4 of a mile & two Bayous
on the L.S. 
S.  60° W  to a high band on Stard. bend 
S.  35°. W  3/4  to the upper point of a Bluff in a Stard. bend opposit
an Island 
S.  45°. E  3/4  to the Lard. bend passd the pt. of an Island & a Bayou 
S.  35°. W  1/4  to the Lard bend opposit an Island 
West  1/4  to the Stard. bend opposit an Island psd. 1 
S.  30°. W  3/4  to an Island in the Stard. bend opposit a high plain 
S.  20°. W.  S1 1/4  to a Clift of rocks under a Mountain S.S. passed an
Island 
South  1/2  to a point on the Stard Side 
S.  30. W.  1/4  to a high Clift of uneaven rock on the Stard. Side opsd.
an Island 
45°. W.  1/8  to the Stard. bend under a Clift 
S.  45°. E  1/4  to a Bayou in the Lard. Bend passing an Island 
60° W  1/8  to Bayou in the Stard. bend above an Isld
S.  50°. E  1/4  to a Bayou Lard bend opposit Several Small Islands 
S.  45°. W.  1/4  to the Mouth of a Bayou Ld bend 
S.  20° W  1/4  to a Bayou in the Lard. bend passing the upper point of
an Island Lard 
S.  70° W  1/4  to the Std. bend. (Encamped 30th July
West  1/8  to a Bayou in the Stard bend 
South  to a Bayou on the Lard. Side at the mouth of a [Pholosipy]
river Damed by the Beaver 8 feet 
West  3/4  to the Stard. Bend at the mouth of a Bayou passed 2
Small Islands one on each Side 
South  1/2  to the Lard. Bend opposit 2 Islands 
SW.  1/2  to the Lard. Side passed a Bavou L.S. 
West  1/2  to a tree in the Stard. Bend 
South  1/8  in the Stard. Bend 
S.  60° E  1/4  to a Prarie above willows on Lard. Side 
S.  25° W  1/4  to the lower point of an Island 
East  1/8  to the 2nd. mouth of the little river L.Sd
20° W  1 1/4  to a bend on the Stard. Side passd. 2 Small Isds
S.  25°. E  1/4  to a Lard bend passed the place I crossed the 26 inst:
river 100 yds wide 3 feet deep. 
SW  1/8  to a Stard. Bend 
South  1/4  to a Lard. bend 
20° W  3/4  to the Lard. bend opsd. an Island 
West  1/2  to a Small Bayou in Lard. bend 
60°. W  to the head of the Island 
45° W.  1 1/4  to a Clift of a mountain on the Lard. Side passed the
(Island on Stard.) 
80° W  1/2  to a Clift of a Knob on the Std. Sd. Here the Clifts jut
in on both sides leaveing a narrow bottoms. 
SW.  3/4  to a Low Bluff above the Lard. Clift in a Lard Bend 
NW.  to a point of rocks on the Stard. Side upper part of the
Clift. 
80° W  1/4  to a Lard Bend, an Island Lard. Side 
N.  80 W  to the Stard. Bend passed an Isld
S.  60° W  3/4  to a Small Island in the Stard. Bend 
South  1/8  to a tree in the Lard Side 
70° W  3/4  to a Stard. Bend passed an Isld
20° W.  1 3/4  to the foot of a mountain in a bend to the Lard Side 
N.  70°. W.  3/4  to a Starboard bend 
S.  70° W.  1/2  to Some bushes in a Lard bend passed the mouth of a
Small run Ld (Encamped 31st. July
N.  30°. W.  to a Point of rocks on the Lard Side, at this place the
river passes thro a Spur of the Mountain of Perpendiculr
Clifts 
N.  60°. W  3/4  to the uppar part of a rock in Std. bend 
S.  70° W  1 1/2  to a Clift on the Lard. Side 
S.  W.  1/2  to a Stard Bend 
S.  26 W.  1 3/4  to a Bluff on Stard Side. 
South  1/2  to the Lard bend, at this place the river enter a high
mountn. of Steep uneaven Clifts 
Miles  37 

Continued August 1st 1805[6]

                                         

17

Page 17
                                                     
N.  30° W  1 1/4  to a Stard. Bend under a high Clift 
N.  80°. W  1/4  to a Clift of high rocks in Std. bend a Small bottom on
the Lard. Side 
S.  60° W.  1/2  to a Lard. Bend, under a pine hill 
N.  25°. W.  1/4  to a Small Island on the Lard Side 
N.  30 E  1/4  to the Stard. Bend high Clifts both Sds
N.  80°. W  3/4  to the Mouth of a bold Creek on the Lard Side passing
an Isld and riffle of 6 feet fall [Frasures fall & Creek]
here the river again enters a vallie 
North  1/2  to the Stard. bend under a hill 
NW.  1/2  to a Lard. bend 
N.  70° W  1 1/2  to the point of an Island passed Several Small Islands 
North  1/4  to a Stard. bend 
West  3/4  to the lower point of an Island 
NW  1/4  to the mouth of a large Creek Std. [R. Fields Creek &
Vally] 28 yd. wd. (Encamped the 1st of augt.
S.  80° W.  3/4  to a Stard. Bend 
S.  30° W  1/4  to a Lard. Bend 
West  1/4  to a Bayou in the Lard. Bend 
North  1/2  to a Stard. bend passing a riffle and 2 Small Islands 
S.  30°. W  3/4  to a Lard. bend passed an Island 
N.  45°. W.  1/2  to a Std. bend passed a Bayoe Ld
West  to an Island passing two points on the Lard. Side two
Islands and Several Bayous on the Lard Side th [e]
Vallie from 6 to 10 mile wide 
South  1 1/8  to a Lard Bend 
NW  1/4  to a Stard bend of the Island 
40° W  1/8  in the Stard. bend of the Isld
S.  60 E.  1/4  to a Lard. bend passing the point of the Island on the
Stard. Side 
SW  1/2  in the Lard. bend 
N.  10° W.  3/4  in the Stard. bend passed a Bayou 
N.  80°. W  1/4  in the Stard. Bend of an Island 
S.  30°. W  3/4  to a Lard. Bend passed the Island 
North  1/4  to a Stard. Bend 
S.W.  to the mouth of 3 Bayoes in a Std. bend 
S.  30°. E  1/2  in a Lard. Bend 
S.  50° W  1/8 in the Lard Bend 
N.  20° W  1/2  to a Bayoe in the Stard. Bend 
S.  20°. W  1/2  to a Lard. Bend 
N.W.  1/4  to a low Bluff in a Stard. Bend 
S.W.  1/8  in a Stard. Bend passd. a Bayou Std. Side 
S.  20°E  1/2  to a Lard Bend 
S.  50°W  1/4  to a lower point of an Island 
West  1/4  to a Stard. Bend passing a Bayoe on the Std. Side and
the Isd. to a Bayoe Std
S.  60° E  1/2  to a Lard. Bend passed an Isld
S.  45° W  1/4  to a Bayou in the Stard. bend 
South  1/4  to a Lard Bend 
S.  60°. W.  1/2  to a Stard. Bend at the mouth of a Bayoe rapid & 30
yds wide 
S.E.  1/8  in the Stard. Bend 
East  1/8  to the Lard Bend 
South  1/2  to the Mo: of a Bayoe in Stard. Bend 
S.  70°. W  3/4  to a Stard. Bend 
South  1/4  to a high bottom in a Stard. Bend 
S.  70° E  1/2  to a Lard. Bend (Campd. 2d. August

3d Augt.

                 

18

Page 18
                                                   
South  1/2  in a Lard. Bend 
West  1/4  to a Stard. Bend 
S.  W.  1/2  to the Stard. Bend a Small Creek [called panther C.] 
S.  20° W.  1/2  in the Stard. Bend 
S.  80°. E.  1 1/4  to the Lower point of an Island 
South  1/4  to a Std. point of the Island 
S.  30° E  1/4  to a Bayoe in the Island 
South  1 1/2  to the upper point of the Island haveing passed 3 points
undr. a Cliff 
S.  10° W.  on a Direct line to the mouth of a Creek Small the 
Dreans of a mountain in which there is Snow in view,
river passed under this Mountain on the Lard. Side &
has Several Short bends in this Course Vallie wide
& to the Stard Side 
25°.  W. 1  to a Small run in a Lard. bend 
S.  60°.  W. 1  to a low Stoney Bluff in a Stard. bend opposit an Island,
passd. 1 
S.  20° W  to the lower point of a Island Ld. passed one and thro
a narrow rockey Channel under the bluff (Encamped
the 3 of Augt.
S.  45°. W.  on a Direct Course to a Lard. bend passed 4 bends to
the Lard. Side & several Bayoes on either Side 
S.  20°. W.  with the river to a Bluff on the Lard. side, passed three bends
on the Stard. and two Small Islands & 2 Bayoes Sd
S.  60°. W.  with the river to an Island passed Six round bends on
the Stard. and several Small Bayoes. (Campd. 4th. Augt.
S.  45°. E  1/2  to a Lard. bend. a Bayou Ld. Side 
S.  15 W  1/2  to a Stard. bend passed an Island 
South  to a Lard. bend psd. a Small Island and a Bayou on the
Stard. Side 
S.  45°. W.  1/4  to a Stard. Bend passed an Island 
S.  30° W  to a low Clift at the mouth of a Bayoe on the Stard. Side
passed 3 rapids in this course 
S.  60°. E  1/2  to a Lard bend passed an Island Std. Side 
S.  30° W.  1/2  to a Bluff in the Stard. bend 
South  1/4  in the Stard. bend passed a bad rapid 
45°. E  1/4  to a Lard bend 
South  1/2  to a Bluff in a Stard. bend 
S.  45°. E.  1/2  to a Lard. bend 
S.  15°. W.  1/4  to a Stard. bend under a Bluff 
East  1/2  to a Lard Bend passed a Bayoe on Std. Side 
5° W  1/4  to a Bayoe in the Lard. Bend 
S.  45° W  1/2  to a Stard. bend passed an Island 
West  1/4  to a Bayoe in the Stard. Bend 
S.  45° E  1/4  to a Lard. Bend passed an Island 
South  1/2  to the forks, passed an Island. Those forks is nearly
of the Same Size the NW. fork the most rapid &
clear and the one most in our course, the S.E. fork
is Still of a Greenish Colour and appears to come
from the S.E. between two mountains 
98  up the North fork 


19

Page 19

assended the N.W. Fork 9 Miles on a Course S. 30°. W. to a Bluff
on the Stard. Side passed Several Bayoes & Islands

Course Distance &c. above Wisdom River

August 7th.[7]

 
S.  45°. E  7 miles by water 3 miles by land to the mouth of a Creek
12 yds. wide on the Lard. Side passed Seven bends
to the Stard. side and Several Small Bayoes on each
side. 

Courses of August 8th.

   
South  5 miles by water 2 m. by land passing seven bends on the
Lard Side two Islds. & several Bayoes to the mouth
of Philanthophy river on the Lard. Side 30 yds. wide
& navagable 
S.  20° W.  14 miles by water & 6 by land on a Direct Course to a
fiew high trees on the Stard. Side the river bending
round to the East 2 miles from this course, passed
an Island at 1 mile, another at 7 miles, Several small
Bayoes & 35 bends to the Stard. most of those
bends are Short & round. 

August 9th.

   
S.  12°. W.  11 miles by water 4 miles derect to a Starbd. bend passd. two
Small islands, 16 short round bends on the Stard. Side.
we Dined 
S.  10° E  3 miles by water 1 m. direct to a high bottom on the
Lard Side passed an Island, a Bayoe on the Lard. Side.
four Short bends on the Stard. Side. 

August 10th

   
S.  30°. W.  6 1/2 miles by water 2 miles Direct to a Clift of rocks 150
feet high Std Side Called by the Snake Indians the
Beavers head, a Clift 300 distant from the Beavers
head about 50 feet high passed 8 bends on the
Stard. Side two Small bayoes on the Lard. Side 
S.  60° W.  6 1/2 miles by water (2 miles on the course) to a low bluff
on the Lard. Side, passed four Island [s] & 18 bends
on the Stard. Side passing near a low bluff on Stard.
Sd. passed Several Small Bayoes. 


20

Page 20

August 11th..

     
S.  20°. W.  3 miles by water 1 m. by land to the lower point of
3000 mile Island passed three Small Islands, 6 bends
on the Stard. Side, 6 Bayoes on either Side 
S.  25°. W.  3 1/2 miles by water 1 1/2 m. by land to the head of the Island
Passed Sevin bends on the Lard. Side of the Islands &
2 Bayoes on the Lard. Side. The Stard. Channel
passes near the Bluffs 
South  7 1/2  miles by water 2 1/2 m. by land to the head of a large
Island, the main Chanel on the Lard. Side, passed
3 Small Islands and Several Small Bayoes and 15
bends on the Stard. Side 

August 12th

     
S.  8°. W.  5 1/2 Miles by water 2 miles direct to the head of a large
Island, main Chanel on the Stard. Side passed maney
Bayoes, 3 Islands, & 9 bends on the Stard. Side 
S.  10° W.  6 1/2 miles by water 2 ms. by land to a Stard. bend passed four
Small Islands and 2 large Island [s] Several Bayoes
and a number of Short bends. passed a run on the
Star. Side 
79 

August 13th.

   
South  miles by water 1 [m. by land] to a point of ruged
rocks about 70 feet high on the Stard. Sd. Passed the
head of the Island opsd to which we Encamped at
2 1/2 Ms. the mouth of a Creek bold running Stream
7 yards wide back of an Island on the Lard Side
Mc. Neal Creek 
S.  30° W.  6 miles by water 3 m by land to the Clift of high rocks
on the Stard. Side passed Several Islands and Bayoes
on either Side, the river verry Crooked & bends
Short 

August 14th

 

21

Page 21
   
S.  14°. W.  22  miles by water the river makeing a Genl. Bend to the
East 8 miles by land to a place the river Passes a
mountain high Clifts on either side, river crooked
Cold rapid & Sholey, almost one continued rapid
passed a number of bayoes & Small Islands passed
a bold running Stream on the Stard. Side 4 yards wide
& 3 feet deep at 7 miles, passed a bold running 
Stream from a Spring on the Lard Side at 15 Miles.
Encamped the 13th. of august at 6 miles on Ld. Side
Encamped 14th. of august at 20 miles on the Lar
Side, a high Clift on the Course 3 miles near the
upper part of which the Creek passes 
111 

Course and distance of the River Jefferson Continued[8]

Augt 15th.

     
S.  25°. W.  6 Miles by water (4 by land) to the Mo: of a Creek 10
yards wide bold current I call Willards Creek Passed a
point of rocks on the Stard. Side at 2 miles, one on the
Lard. at 5 miles passed a bold running Stream at 4 miles
on the Lard. Side & an Isld 
S.  22° E  3 miles by water (1 mile by land) to a Small bottom on the
Lard Side passed a high Clift on the Stard. opposit is
a high slopeing hill 
S.  20°. W  6 Miles by water (2 by land) to a Small branch on the
Lard Side passed no wood except Srub. Clear bottom 

(16th August)

       
S.  18°. W  7 miles by water (3 by land) to a Lard bend under a low
bluff, the river bending to the Std. under Some high land
verry crooked Shallow rapid & Small, passed Several
Island[s] 4 of them opposit each other. Service berry
Vallie
 
S.  12° W  4 Miles by water (2 by land) to a high Clift on the Stard.
Side pass Several Small Isds. & Bayoes 
S.  50°. E.  1 1/2 m. by water (1 by land) to the mouth of a bold running
Stream on the Lard Side opposit a Considerable rapid
Clifts on both Sides below high Std. above 
S.  45°. W  1/2 mile to the lower point of an Isld. in the middle 

(17th August)

   
S.  30°. W.  10 Miles by water 4 by land to a high Knob in the forks of
the river. river bending to the Stard. Side. met Indians
& Encamped to make a Portage 
mils 39 


22

Page 22

[Distances from the Narrows to mouth of Columbia].[9]

                                           
From Timm or long narrows to the first village Std Side  14  14 
To friendly village 
To Pilgrim rocks  13 
To Catteract River & vilg.  11 
To a village on Std. 3 houses Comsmt. of Mountain 
To [blank space in MS.] River 60 yd. Std Sd 12 
To the Great Shute  38 
To the last rapid  44 
To Quick Sand River on the West side of Mountain  26  26 
To Tomahawk village S.  16 
To a vilg on Lard. Side at which place Mt. Ranier may be seen  20 
To pt. opsd. a large village behd. an Island  12 
To the narrows of a low mountain  11  59 
To a village or 2 Houses Lard. side  16 
To a village North of some low marshey Islands Std 33 
To 4 houses under a Std. Hill  15 
To Shallow Bay  16 
To [blank space in MS.] Inlet  88 
To Point open Slope below the Station Camp 1805 
To Chinnook R. Haley's bay  12 
To Point Disapt 13  28 
147 

From the M. of the Creek No. 1 to a point up the River on the opposite
Side No. 1 is S. 88°. E.[10]

  • To the nearest pinical of the mountain is S. 44°. E.

  • To point No. 2, is S. 30°. E.

  • To Lower point No. 3 is S. 50°. W.

  • To a stake is S. 71°. W. 82 poles to a 2d stake is S. 75°. W. 112 poles
    at a vilg. of 26 Houses, thence to a stake is S. 84 W. 88 poles at a run

  • To the Stake at Camp N. 89°. West 94 Poles

    From Camp

  • To the pt No. 1 is East

  • To the Mountain is S. 49. E

  • To point No. 2. S. 47°. E.


  • 23

    Page 23
  • To point No. 3. S. 41°. W.

  • To Cape Disapt. S. 88 West

  • Down the river N. 77°. W

  • 134 Poles to a Creek and (N. 5 West in a bend)

  • To the mountain & Point No. 2 in same course S. 49°. E.

  • To Point No. 3. S. 35°. W.

  • To Cape Disapt. is S. 87°. W.

  • To a Point between N. 80 West about 1 mile

  • To point Addams is S. S. E. from Camp

Courses and estimated distances from the Quawmash Flats on the
West side of Rocky Mountains to Travellers rest.[11]

                   

24

Page 24
                   
ms
East.—  11 to Collins's Creek 25 yds. wide, passing a small prarie
at 9 ms. road hilly, thickly timbered. 
N.  45°.  E.  13 to the crossing of Fish Creek 10 yds. wide passing a
small creek at 6 ms
N.  75°.  E.  9. to a small branch of hungry Creek, the road passing
along a ridge with much fallen timber. some snow
at the extremity of this course. 
N.  22 1/2  E.  5. to the heads of the main branch of hungry Creek.
road hilly, some snow. 
N.  75°.  E.  3. down hungry Creek on its No[r]th side, passing 2
small branches on it's N. side, the 1st. at 1/2 M and
the 2nd. at 1 1/2 ms. further. 
N.  75°.  E.  6. still continuing on the N. side of the creek to the foot
of the mountain, passing 3 north branches and 1
South branch of the Crek. 
N.  45°.  E.  3. to the summit of the mountain where we deposited
our baggage on the 17th. inst
N.  45°.  E.  15. to an open prarie on the side of a mountain having
kept the dividing ridge between the Waters of the
Kooskooske and Chopunnish rivers. 
N.  45°.  E.  28. to an open prarie on the South side of a mountain,
having still kept the same dividing ridge mentioned
in the last Course, though you ascend many steep
mountains and decend into many deep hollows. 
East—  3.  to the extremity of a ridge where we decend to a deep
hollow. much fallen timber caused in the first instance
by fire and more recently by a storm from
S. W. 
N.  45°. E.  10.  along a high snowey ridge to an open hillside of considerable
Extent passing the road at 4 1/2 ms. which
turns off to the right and leads by the fishery at the
entrance of Colt Creek. 
N.  45°. E.  12.  To the quawmash flatts at the head of a branch of the
Kooskooske, passing the Kooskoske 35 yd. wide at
5 miles, from hungry Creek to this river the road
may be said to be over snow as so small a proportion
of it is distitute of it. after passing this river
the road dose not agin ascend to the snowy hights.
at 7 ms. on this course again fell into the road which
leads by the fishery about 4 ms. above the mouth of
Quawmash Creek. 
North—  4. to the Hotspring Creek on the main branch of travellers
rest. 
N.  20°.  E.  3. to the warm or hot Springs down the N. side of the
creek. 
N.  20°.  E.  3. down the creek passing a Northern branch 3 yds. wide
at 1. M. also the Creek itself twice a short distance
below the Northern bran[ch] 
N.  45°.  E.  10. along the North side of the creek to the entrance of
a N. branch of the same 8 yds. wide, a road leads
up this branch. 
N.  60°.  E.  9. down the N. side of travellers rest creek to the prarie
of the Creek and the Vally of Clark's R. 
East—  9 to our encampment on the S. side of travellers rest,
passing the creek 1 M. above and 2 from its mouth 
Total  156 

Courses and Computed Distances from the Enterance of Travellers
rest Creek into Clarks River to the Falls of Missouri[12]

 

25

Page 25
   
North  Miles to the crossing of Clarks river, vally wide the
top of the hills covered with long leafed pine. bottoms
pine & Cotton wood passed a Small branch 
at 3 miles on W Side and at 1 M. further a Small
Creek on the E. Side. at 5 miles Clarks river is
joined by an Easterly fork 120 yards wide. 
75°.  E.  7. Miles through a handsom leavel plain to the point
where the East fork enters the mountains, or where
the hills close it in on both Sides, passed a large
Creek 15 yd. wide at 6 miles also one at 3 miles. 

July 4

       
75°.  E.  3 miles allong the North Side of the river, the bottoms
widen. a prarie. 
N.  45°.  E.  1 M. passing a small branch at the extremity of this
course. 
S.  45°.  1 M. to the forks of the East fork of Clarks river a
handsom wide plain below on the South Side. 
East  8 Miles on a Buffalow road up Co-kah-lah-ish-kit river
through a timbered Country Mountains high rocky
and but little bottom land pore. 

July 5th.

         

26

Page 26
   
N.  75°.  3 1/2 Miles passed a Stout Creek on N. Side at 2 1/2 miles.
another just above. 
N.  25°.  12 Miles passed a Small creek at 1 mile on the S. Side
on which there is a handsome and extencive vally
and plain for 10 or 12 miles also another Creek
12 yds wide at 1/2 a mile on the N. Side, and another
8 yds wide on the N. Side at 5 miles. and one 1/2
mile Short of the extremity of the course arrived
at a high prarie on the S. Side from one to 3. miles
in width, extending up the river. great number of
wild horses on Clarks river about the place Capt. L.
crossed it. we saw several. 
East  6 Miles to the enterance of Warners Creek 35. yards
wide through a high extencive prarie on the N. Side.
hills low and timbered with the long leafed pine,
larch and Some fir. the road passes at some distance
to the left of the river and these courses is
with the river. 
N.  22°.  W.  4 Miles to a high insulated Knob just above the enterance
of a Creek 8 yards wide which discharges
itself into Werners Creek. 
N.  75°.  2 1/2 Miles to the river passing through a handsom plain 
on Werners Creek crossing that Creek at one
mile and leaveing a high prarie hill to the right
seperateing the plain from the river. Saw 2 swan
in this butifull creek. 
East  3 Miles to the enterance of a large Creek 20 yards wide
called Seamons Creak, passed a creek at 1 mile
8 yds wide, (this course is with the river) the road
passing through a high extencive prarie, a vast
number of little hillocks and Sink holes. at the
head of those 2 Creeks is high broken mountains
Standing at the distance of 10 m. forming a kind
of cove Generaly of open untimbered country. 

July 6th.

       
East  14 Miles to the point at which the river leaves the
extencive plains and enters the mountains these
plains is called the prarie of the Knobs, passed
the North fork of Cokah-lar, ishket river at 7 miles,
it is 45 yards wide deep & rapid. passed a large
crooked pond at 4 miles further. Great number
of burrowing Squirels of the Species common to
the Columbian plains. the main branch is 50 yards
wide and turbid the other Streams are clear, these
plains continue their course S. 75°. E and are wide
where the river leaves them. up this vally and
Creek a road passes to the Missouri. 
N.  60°.  E.  1 1/2 miles up the river. bottoms narrow and and country
thickly timbered. Cotton wood and pine grow interim
[i]xed in the river bottoms passed Several
old indian encampments. 
N.  80°.  E.  2 Miles to two nearly equal forks of the river. here
the road forks also one leading up each river.
passed a Creek on N. side 12 yd. wide. 
N.  75°.  E.  8 Miles over a Steep high bald toped hill for 2 miles
thence 3 M. through a thick woods along the hill
Side. bottoms narrow. crossed a large Creek in
a butifull plain much beaver Sign. 

July 7th.

 

27

Page 27
           
N.  75°.  E.  6 M. through a leavel butifull plain on the N. side of
the river much timber in the bottoms, hills also
timbered with pitch pine crossed a branch of the 
Creek 8 yds. wide at 1/4 M. also passed a creek 15
yds. wide at 1/4 further. 
North  6 Ms. passed the main Creek at 1 Ml. and kept up it
on the right hand Side through a handsom plain.
the main Stream bore N W. & W as far as I could
See it, a right hand fork falls into this creek at
1 ml. above the Commcmt. of this course. 
N.  15°.  8 Ms. over two ridges one [on] again Strikeing the
right hand fork at 4 Ms. then continuing up it on
the left hand Side. much apperance of beaver maney
dams. bottoms not wide and covered with willow
and grass. 
N.  10°.  E.  3 Ms. up the Same creek on the E Side through a handsom
narrow plain. 
N.  45°.  E.  2/106 ¾ Ms. passing the dividing ridge between the waters of
the Columbia from those of the Missouri at 1/4 of a
mile. from this gap which is low and an easy
asent, the road decends and continues down a
creek. 
N.  20°.  W.  7 Ms. over Several hills and hollows along the foot of
the mountain, passed 5 small riverlets running to
the right. 

July 8th. 1806.

   

28

Page 28
   
N.  25°.  W.  3 Ms. to the top of a hill from whence we saw the
Shishequaw Mountain about 8 Ms. distant imediately
before us, passed torrent river at 3 Ms. this Stream
comes from the S. W. out of the Mountains which
are about 5 miles to our left the bead of the river
is 100 yds. wide tho' the water only occupies about
30 yds. runs a mear torrent tareing the trees up
by the roots which Stand in it's bottoms, we discover
this to be Dearborns River. "The Shishequaw
Mountain is a high insulated conic mountain
Standing Several miles in advance of the Eastern
range of the rocky Mountains" near the Meadecine
River. 
North  14 1/2 Miles through an open plain to Sishequaw Creek 20
yards wide about 10 Ms. below the Mtn which bears
S. 32°. W. from us, haveing left the road to our
left which keeps near the Mts
N.  50°.  E.  2 Ms. to the discharge of Sishequaw Creek into Medecine
River through an extencive leavel and butifull
bottom. 
N.  85°.  E.  8/28 ¼ Ms. down the Medecine river to a large Island. the
bottoms are extensive low and leavel. the lands
of neither the Plain or bottom are fertile it is of a
light colour intermixed with a considerable portion
of gravel. the grass Generaly about 9 inches high. 

July 9th..

           
N.  80°.  E.  4 Ms. through a handsom leavel wide bottom in which
there is a considerable quantity of the narrow leafed
cotton wood timber. The river is generally about
80 yds. wide rapid it's bed is loose Gravel and pebbles
its banks low but seldom overflow, water
clear. 
S.  85°.  E.  4 Ms. down on the S. W. Side of Medecine river through
wide and leavel bottoms Some timber. 
July 10th 
N.  75°.  E.  24 Miles down the river. 7 Ms. of the latter part of the
course no timber. passed a rapid bottom wide
and extensive a great number of small islands in
the river. 
S.  75°.  8 Miles to the Missouri at the White Bear Islands at
the head of the portage above the falls, passed
through the plains. at which place Capt. Lewis
continued untill the 15th July 1806. and left 6
men and proceeded towards the head of Marias
river with the other 3 men as before mentioned. 
183 

The most derect and best course from the dividing ridge which
divides the waters of the Columbia from those of the Missouri at the
Gap where Capt. Lewis crossed it is to leave a Short range of mountains
which pass the Missouri at the Pine Island rapid to the right passing
at it's basse and through the plains pass fort mountain to the White
bear Isds. or Medecine river, a fine road and about 45 miles, reducing
the distance from Clarks river to 145 miles one other road passes
from the enterance of Dearborns River over to a South branch of the
Cohahlariskkit river and down that river to the main fork and down
on the N. Side of the main fork to Clarks river &c.

 
[1]

The following is found in Codex A, pp. 134, 135, and is in Clark's hand.

[2]

The following survey notes are found in the Clark-Voorhis note-book, No. 1.
They were copied by Lewis in Codex E, pp. 103–106, with some variations, chiefly
due to mistranscription. Lewis, however, makes the final estimate 352 feet, 2 3/4 inches,
instead of Clark's 360 feet, 2 3/4 inches. See map in our vol. ii, pp. 176, 178, under
date of June 20, 1805.—Ed.

[3]

The following matter is found in Codex G, pp. 26, 27, in Clark's handwriting,
and describes the route from July 17 to 20, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.

[4]

The following is found in Codex G, pp. 34–37, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes the route from July 20 to 27, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.

[5]

The following is found is Codex G, pp. 39–41, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes the route from July 30 to Aug. 1, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.

[6]

The following continuation is found in Codex G, pp. 46–49, in Clark's handwriting,
and describes the route from Aug. 1 to Aug. 5, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.

[7]

The following is found in Codex G, pp. 60–62, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes the route from Aug. 7 to 14, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.

[8]

The following is found in Codex G, p. 67, in Clark's handwriting, and describes
the route from August 15 to 17, inclusive.—Ed.

[9]

This list of distances is found on a separate leaf towards the end of the Clark-Voorhis
field-book.—Ed.

[10]

These bearings in and about the mouth of the Columbia were found
entered on
a separate leaf towards the end of the Clark-Voorhis field-book.—Ed.

[11]

The following is found in Codex L, pp. 70, 71, in Lewis's handwriting, and
describes the route from June 24 to June 30, 1806, inclusive.—Ed.

[12]

The following is found in Codex N, pp. 144–148, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes Lewis's route from July 3 to 10, 1806, inclusive, over what is known as
Lewis and Clark's Pass. Cf. Clark's Summary Statement, post.—Ed.


29

Page 29

B. LEWIS'S SUMMARY VIEW OF RIVERS AND CREEKS, ETC.[13]

A SUMMARY VIEW OF THE RIVERS AND
CREEKS, which discharge thems[elves] into the Missouri;
containing a discription of their characters and
peculiarities, their sources and connection with other rivers
and Creeks, the quality of the lands, and the apparent face of
the country through which they pass, and the width, and
distance of their entrances from each other; to which is also
added a short discription of some of the most remarkable
points and places on the Missouri; taken from the information
of Traders, Indians & others; together with our own
observations, from the junction of that river with the Mississippi,
to Fort Mandan.

The confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers is situated in
89°. 57′. 45″ Longitude West from Greenwich, and 38°. 55′. 19″. 6.
North Latitude. Ascending the Missouri from hence, at the distance
of 21 miles, you arrive at the Village of St. Charles, situated on the
North bank of the river, in a narrow tho' elivated plain, which is
bounded in the rear by a range of small hills; hence the appellation
of Petit cote, a name by which, this village is better known to the
inhabitants of the Illinois, than that of St. Charles. The village is
bisected or divided into two equal parts by one prinsipal street about a
mile in length, runing nearly parallel with the river. It contains a
Chapple, one hundred dwelling houses and about 450 inhabitants. the
houses are generally small and but illy constructed. a great majority of
the inhabitants are miserably poor, illiterate, and when at home, excessively
lazy; tho' they are polite, hospitable and by no means deficient
in point of natural genious. they live in great harmony among themselves,
and place as implicit confidence in the doctrines of their
speritual pastor, (the Roman Catholic priest) as they yeald passive
obedience to the will of their temporal master, the Commandant. A
small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their cultivation. this
labour is commonly imposed on the old men and boys; those in the


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vigor of life view the cultivation of the soil as a degrading employment,
and in order to gain the necessary subsistence for themselves and
families, either undertake hunting voyages on their own account, or
engage themselves as hirelings to such as possess sufficient capital to
extend their traffic to the natives to the interior parts of the country.
on those voyages in either case, they are frequently absent from their
families or homes, the term of six, twelve, or eighteen months, during
which time they are always subjected to severe and incessant labour,
exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages, the vicissitudes of the
weather and climate, and dependant on chance and accedent alone,
for food, raiment, or relief in the event of malady; yet they undertake
those voyages with cheerfullness, and prefer the occupation of the
hunter, or engage, to that of the domestic, and independent farmer.

Ascending the Missoury at the distance of 12 miles, Bonhomme Creek
discharges itself on the S. side. it is 23 yards wide at it's entrance
is of no great length, & passes through a fertile well timbered country,
inhabited by American emigrants principally.

At the distance of 9 miles higher up we pass the mouth of the Osage
woman's
river, which discharges itself on the N. side; it is 30 yards
wide at it's entrance, heads with two small streams which discharge
themselves into the Mississippi a small distance above the mouth of the
Illinois River, is navigable for perogues some miles during the spring
season, and waters a fertile well timbered country inhabited by about
fifty American families. this part of the country is generally called
Boon's settlement, having derived it's name from it's first inhabitant
Col° Daniel Boon, a gentleman well known in the early settlement of
the state of Kentucky.

About 9 miles higher up, and 69, from the Mississippi, Chaurette
Creek falls in on the N. side. it is 20 yards wide at it's mouth, waters
a tolerable country well covered with timber, but is of no great extent.
it heads with the waters of the River Ocuivre[14] a branch of the
Mississippi. immediately below the mouth of this creek five French
families reside, who subsist by hunting and a partial trade w[h]ich they
mantain with a few detached Kickapoos who hunt in the neighbourhood.
this is the last settlement of white persons which we meet with in
ascending the Missouri.

At the distance of 34 miles higher up the Gasconade disembogues on
the S. side behind a small Island covered with willow. at it's entrance
it is 157 yards wide, but is much narrower a little distance up, and


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is not navigable, (hence the name gasconade) this river is of no great
length, heads with the Marameg & St. Francis rivers. the country
watered by this river, is generally broken, thickly covered with timber
and tolerably fertile. the hills which border on the Missouri near
the mo[u]th of this river are about 300 feet high, containing excellent
limestone in great abundance. I have observed in ascending the Missouri
to this place, that whenever the river washes the base of the
hills on either side, it discloses large quarries of this stone, lying in
horizontal stratas, from 10 to 40 feet in thickness. this stone is
of light brown colour, with a smal tint of blue; fracture imperfect
conchoidal; when broken it presents the appearance of a variety of
small shells and other marine substances, of which it seems to be
entirely composed. in this solid and massive rock, are inclosed stones
of yellowish bro [w] n flint, of bulbous and indeterminate shapes, from
an ounce, to ten or twelve pounds weight. these stratas of limestone
are not unusually found overlaying a strata of freestone, or soft sandstone,
from two to twenty feet in thickness. this stone produces lime
of an excellent quality, and is the same with that, which makes it's
appearance on the Mississippi from Cape Gerrardeau, to the entrance
of the Missouri.

F[i]fteen miles up we pass Muddy River which falls in on the N
side. this river waters a most delightfull country; the land lies well
for cultivation, and is fertile in the extreem, particularly on the
Missouri, both above and below this river for many miles; it is covered
with lofty and excellent timber, and supplyed with an abundance of
fine bould springs of limestone water. this river is 50 yards wide
several miles above it's mouth.

2 miles higher up Muddy creek discharges itself; it is 20 yards wide
at it's mouth, heads with cedar Creek, and the branches of Muddy
river. the country through which it passes is similar to that last
mentioned.

At the distance of 19 miles higher up, you arrive at the mouth of the
Osage River; being 137 miles from the junction of the Missouri and
Mississippi. it is 397 yards wide at it's mouth, opposite to which,
the Missouri is 875 yards wide. it disembogues on the S. side just
above a cluster of small Islands. it takes it's rise in an open country
of Plains and Praries, with some of the Northern branches of the
Arkansas; some of it's tributary streams on it's North side, also have
their sou [r] ces in a similar country, with the Southern branches of
the Kanzas river. The rivers Arkansas and Kanzas circumscribe
the length of this river, and interlock their branches to the West of


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it. The country watered by this river, is generally level & fertile,
tho' it is more broken on the lower portion of the river; the bottom
lands are wide, well timbered, and but partially liable to inundation;
the soil consists of a black rich loam many feet in debth. the uplands
also consist of a dark loam overlaying a yellow or red clay; a majority
of the country consists of plains intersperced with groves of timber.
the timber still diminishes in quantity as you proceed Westwardly with
the river. on the South side of this river 30 leagues below the Osage
Village, there is a large lick, at which some specimenes of the bones
of the Mammoth have been found; these bones ar [e] said to be in
considerable quantities, but those which have been obtained as yet, were
in an imperfect state. Mr. Peter Chouteau, a gentleman of St. Louis,
made an attempt some years since to explore this lick, but was compelled
to desist from his labour, in consequence of the quantity of
water discharged into the lick from a neighbouring spring, which
he had not the means or the leasure to divert; since which time,
no further attempt has been made. The specimens obtained by
Mr. Couteau were large; but much mutilated. the Osage river is
navigable 120 leages for boats and perogues of eight or ten tons
burthen, during the fall and spring seasons; in winter it's navigation
is obstructed by ice, and during the Summer months it experiences an
unusual depression of it's waters, a characteristic of most streams,
which have their sources in an open plain country, or which, in their
courses pass through a majority of that discription of lands. the bed
of the river is generally composed of mud, gravel and sand, and is
but little obstructed by rocks or driftwood.

At the distance of five miles above the mouth of the Osage river,
Murrow[Moreau] Creek falls in on the S. side, 20 yards wide at it's
mouth and navigable for perogues a few miles. it takes it's rise with
the waters of the Osage river and those of Salt river (branch of the
Missouri) it traverses in it's course to the Missouri, a tolerable country,
well timbered and water[e]d. the mouth of this creek is the point at
which the Saukes, Foxes, and Ayouways usually pass this river [to]
wars with the Osages.

7 miles higher up, Cedar Creek falls in on the N. side, above an
Island, on which there is Cedar, hence the name of the creek. it
heads with muddy creek, and passes though a delightfull country in it's
course to the Missouri. it is well timbered and abounds in springs
of excellent water.

at the distance of ten miles further you pass the mouth of Good-woman's
Creek, about 20 yards wide. opposite to the entrance of this


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creek the Missouri washes the base of a high hill which is said to
contain lead ore, our surch for this ore however pruved unsuccessfull
and if it dose contain ore of any kind, it must be concealed. this Creek
takes it['s] rise in the highlands with Split rock Creek and passes
through a fertile country well timbered and watered. in the last nine
miles of it's course it passes through an extensive fertile bottom nearly
parallel with the Missouri.

Nine miles higher you pass the mouth of Manitou Creek on the S.
Side. it is but a small creek head [ing] a few miles back in an open
country; the land ab[o]ut it's entrance on the Missouri are of an
excellent quality and covered with good timber.

Nine miles further Split rock Creek discharges itself on the N. side,
twenty yards wide and navigable for perogues some miles. it waters
a well timbered country; the land about the mouth, appears to be of the
second quality, or at least inferior to that heretofore seen in ascending
the Missouri.

At the distance of 3 miles, still ascending, Salt river disembogues on
the S. side; being 180 miles from the entrance of the Missouri. it is
30 yards wide and navigable for perogues 40 or 50 miles; passes
through a delightfull country, intersperced with praries. so great is the
quantity of salt licks and springs on this river that it's waters are
said to be brackish at certain seasons of the year. one large lick and
spring are situated on it's S. E. bank about nine miles from the Missouri.
this river heads with the waters of the Osage river, Murrow
Creek, and Mine river.

Ascending the Missouri ten miles further we arrive at the entrance
of Manitou river, which disembogues on the N. side, just below a high
clift of limestone rock, in which we found a number of rattle-snakes
of large size. this stream is about 30 yards wide, and is navigable for
perogues some miles. about three miles from the Missouri on the
lower side of this river there are three small springs of salt water which
do not appear to be of the best quality. the country about the mouth
of this river, particularly on it's lower side, is a charming one; the soil
fertile in the extreme, and well covered with excellent timber. the
country on the upper portion of this river is but little known.

At the distance of nine miles further, Good-woman's river falls in on
the N. side; it is 35 yards wide at it's entrance; meanders through an
extensive rich bottom nearly parallel with the Missouri for some miles
befor it discharges itself. it is navigable for perogues 15 or 20 miles,
waters a fine farming country intersperced with open plains and praries,
and heads with the little Shariton river.


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At the distance of nine miles Mine river discharges discharges itself on
the S. side, it derives it's name from some lead mines which are said to
have been discov[er]ed on it, tho' the local situation, quality, or quantity
of this ore, I could never learn. this river is 70 yards wide at it's entrance,
navigable for perogues 80 or 90 miles, and through the greater part of
it's course runs parellel with the Missouri; at the distance of 70 miles
up this river it is only 5 leagues distant from the Missouri. it takes it's
rise in an open hilly country with Bluewater river and some of the
Northern branches of the Osage river. the courant of this river is even
and gentle. The country through which it passes is generally fertile,
and consists of open plains and praries intersperced with groves of
timber. near it's entrance the country is well timbered and watered,
and the lands are of a superior quality.

Twenty two miles higher up the two Shariton rivers discharge themselves
on the N. side, the smaller falling into the larger on it's lower
side at a small distance from the Missouri. the little Shariton river
heads with Good-woman's river, and is 30 yards wide at it's entrance;
this country has not been much explored, the portion of it which is
known is fertile, and consists of a mixture of praries and woodlands.
The larger Shariton is 70 yards wide above the entrance of the smaller,
and is navigable for perogues nearly to it's source. it takes it's rise near
the Red Cedar river a Western brance of the river Demoin. the country
through which it passes is level, and fertile consisting of an irregular
mixture of woodlands and praries, each alternately predominating in
different parts.

Twenty two miles higher up, the Grand river disembogues on the N.
side just above a beatifull and extensive prarie in which the ancient
village of the Missouris was situated. Old Fort Orleans is said to have
stood on the lower point of an Island a few miles below this place, no
traces of that work are to be seen. this river is 90 yards wide at it's
entrance and is said to be navigable for boats and perogues a considerable
distance. it heads with the Rackoon river a branch of the Demoin.
The country through which it passes is similar to that discribed on the
larger Shariton river. about the entrance of this river the lands are
extreemly fertile; consisting of a happy mixture of praries and groves,
exhibiting one of the most beatifull and picteresk seens that I ever
beheld.

At the distance of eight miles Snake creek falls in on the N. side. 18
yards wide at it's entrance. it runs parallel with the Missouri nearly
it's whole extent, passing through a delightfull country, well timbered
and watered.


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Thirty seven miles higher up Tigers Creek falls in on the N. side,
opposite to the upper point of a large island. some excellent bottom
lands in the neighbourhood of it's mouth; interior country not known.

Fifteen miles higher up Eubert's river and Creek fall in on the S.
side, opposite to an island, which concealed their entrances from our
view. they are but small streams, head with the Mine river, and water
an excellent country, consisting of a mixture of praries and woodlands.

Twenty six miles further, Hay Cabbin Creek falls in on the S. side.
it heads near the Bluewater river and passes through a good country.
the land is very fine and well timbered near it's mouth.

Seventeen miles above, Bluewater river falls in on the S. side; 36
yards wide at it's entrance; and navigable but a short distance. it has
one considerable fall, and several rappids well situated for waterworks.
it heads in an open country with Mine river, and passes through a
roling country. the lands are tolerably good; it's bottom lands are
wide, fertile and sufficiently covered with good timber; some beatifull
natural meadows are also seen on it's borders.

Still ascending the Missouri, at the distance of 9 miles the Kanzas
river disembogues itself on the South side; being 364 miles from the
junction of the Missouri and Mississippi. This river takes it's rise not
very distant from the principal branch of the Arkansas in a high broken
sandy country, forming the Southern extremity of the black hills. from
hence it takes it's course nearly East about 300 leagues through fertile
and leavel, plains & praries, intersperced with groves of timbered land;
it then enters a country equally fertile and well timbered, through which
it meanders about 20 leagues further and discharges itself into the
Missouri. it has been navigated 200 leagues and there is good reason
to believe from the appearance of the river and country at that point
that it is navigable for perogues much further perhaps nearly to it's
source. The rivers Platte and Arkansas interlock their branches West
of this stream. there are no obstructions to the navigation of the
Kanzas, it's current is gentle, and the bed of the river composed of soft
loam, gravel and sand; in the summer and autumn it's waters are trans
parent. about 3/4 of a mile from the entrance of this river on it's North
side there is a handsome bluff about 100 feet high, which furnishes an
excellent situation for a fortification; there is an abundance of excellent
timber for the purpose immediately at the place. The Colateral
branches of this river, and the most remarkable places on the same so
far as we have been enabled to inform ourselves are as follow—


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Names of Creeks rivers & remarkable places  distances
from each
other 
distances
of each
from the
Mouth
of the
Kanzas. 
width
in
yards 
the side
of the
Kanzas
into
which
they fall 
The three rivers, near each other and about the
same size 
10  20  N. 
The St[r] anger's wife river  15  35  N. 
Bealette's Creek.  18  22  N. 
Wor-rah-ru za river  19  40  S. 
Grasshopper Creek.  21  25  N. 
Heart river  10  31  30  N. 
The old Kanzas Village  40  N. 
Full river  45  50  S. 
Black-paint river  27  72  38  N. 
Bluewater river and the present village of the
Kanzas just below 
80  60  N. 
Me-war-ton-nen-gar Creek  85  18  N. 
War-ho-ba Creek  88  15  S. 
Republican river  15  103  200  N. 
Solomon's Creek  12  115  30  N. 
Little salt Creek  10  125  30  N. 

On the West side of the Republican river, about sixty leagues above
it's junction with the Kanzas, a small creek falls in on the S. W. side,
called Salt creek, the water of this creek is excessively salt, salt in it's
dry and granulated state, is to be found in large quantities on the
borders of this stream throughout it's whole extent; the earth on which
it forms, is remarkably furm, and the salt can be readily collected, free
from any extranious substance, by sweeping with a brush of feathers.

Ten miles higher up the Little river Platte falls in on the N. side, 60
yards wide at it's entrance. it heads in open plains between the Nadawa
and grand rivers, and through the principal part of it's course passes
through high open plains interspersed with groves of timber. 6 or seven
leagues before it discharges itself into the Missouri, it meanders through
a high fertile well timbered bottom nearly parallel with that river, and
receives in it's course severall handsom creeks, which discharge themselves
into it from the hills. at the distance of 12 leagues it's navigation
is obstructed by a considerable fall, above which, it is shallow and
interrupted by such a number of rappids, that it is no further practicable.
This fall, and many of the rapids afford excellent situations for gristmills,
and other water-works.

Twenty five miles further Turkey Creek falls in on the S. side, this
creek is but small, passes through open bottoms nearly parallel with the
Missouri, and in rear of an Old Kanzas Village. this creek once furnished
water to an old French garrison situated near it's mouth.


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Thirty three miles further Independance creek falls in on the S. side,
a little below the second old village of the Kansas; is 22 yards wide
at it's mouth; it possesses some excellent bottom lands, and waters a
beatifull and fertile country consisting of high open plains and praries
principally; on it's borders, and about it's entrance there is a sufficient
quantity of timber. it takes it's rise with the Stranger's wife river, and
the waters of Woolf river. we knew of no name by which this creek
was called, and therefore gave it that of Independance, from the circumstance
of our having arrived at it's mouth on the 4th. of July 1804.

At the distance of 48 miles higher up Nadaway river discharges itself
on the N. side nearly opposite to the upper point of a large Island,
which bears it's name. it is 70 yards wide some miles above it's mouth,
and is navigable for perogues a very considerable distance. it takes it's
rise with grand River, Nish-nah-ba-to-na, and the waters of the river
Demoin; and passes in it's course to the Missouri through a fine fertile
country, consisting of a mixture of woodlands and plains; the lands
about it's mouth are well timbered and water [e]d.

Fourteen miles [further] up the Missouri, Woolf river discharges
itself on the S. side. it is 60 yards wide at it's entrance and navigable
for perogues a considerable distance; takes it's rise with the waters of
the Kanzas and Ne-ma-haw rivers, and in it's course to the Missouri
passes through a level fertile country principally open plains and praries,
tho' generally well watered and possesses a sufficient quantity of timber
on it's borders and near it's mouth. great quantities of grapes, plumbs
& raspberries are found in the neighbourhood of this stream.

Sixteen miles higher up, Big Ne-ma-har falls in on the S. side, opposite
to an Island covered with willows; it is 80 yards wide, and
navigable for large boats some distance, and for perogues nearly to it's
source. it heads with Blue-water river, branch of the Kanzas, and
throughout it's whole course, passes through rich, and level plains, and
praries. there is some timber on it's borders, and about it's entrance;
it's tributary streams are also furnished with some timber. the country
is well watered.

Three miles further the Tarkio Creek falls in on the N. side, twenty
three yards wide at it's entrance; it is navigable for perogues a short
distance. it heads with the Nadiway and passes through a tolerable
country of plains and woodland.

Twenty five miles higher up The Nish-nah-ba-to-na River discharges
itself opposite to the lower point of an Island on the N. Side, and is
50 yards in width at it's entrance. it heads with the Nadawa river
and passes through a fertile country deversifyed with plains meadows


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and woodlands; considerable bodys of the latter appear in some parts
of this country. at the Bald-pated prarie, it enters the Missouri bottom
and approaches that river within 300 paces, when it returns again to
the highlands, and continues it's course along the foot of the same
about 30 miles before it discharges itself. at the Bald pated prarie it
is 40 yards wide, possesses considerable debth of water, and is navigable
many miles; the country lying between the Missouri and this river,
from the Balld pated prarie nearly to it's mouth, is one of the most
beautiful, level and fertile praries that I ever beheld; it is from one to
three miles in width. there is a considerable quantity of timber on
the banks of the Missouri, and but little on the Nishnabatona.

At the distance of eight miles higher up, the Little Ne-ma-har River
falls in on the S. side. 40 yards wide. it heads with salt River branch
of the River Platte, and passes through an open fertile country in[t]ersperced
with groves of timber. it is navigable some miles for large
perogues. there are several handsome streams of fine water, which fall
into the Missouri both above and below the mouth of this river in it's
neighbourhood.

Fifty two miles higher up, Weeping water Creek falls in on the S.
side. it is 25 yards wide at it's entrance, heads in high broken plains
near Salt River, and passes through a roling country, mostly uncovered
with timber and not very fertile there is a scant proportion of timber
on it[s] banks and some clumps of trees are scattered over the face
of the country. there is some handsom bottom lands on this stream,
and the country is generally well wartered.

Thirty two miles higher up, and distant 630 from the confluence
of the Missouri and Mississippi, the great river Platte disembogues on
the S. side. The steady, regular, and incessant velocity of this stream,
is perhaps unequaled by any on ea[r]th; notwithstanding it's great
rapidity the surface of the water continues smooth, except when occasionally
interruped by a boiling motion, or ebullition of it's waters.
this motion of the water is also common to the Missouri, and Mississippi,
below the mouth of that river, and always takes place in the most rappid
part of the current; in this manner the water is seen to rise suddenly
many inches higher than the common surface, then breaking with a
rappid and roling motion, extends itself in a circular manner in every
direction arround, interrupting the smooth, tho' rappid surface of the
water for many yards. this ebullition of the water of those rivers, is
a singular phenomenon, nor do I know to what cause to attribute it,
unless it be, the irregular motion of large masses of sand and mud at
their bottoms, which are constantly changing their positions. The bed


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of the river Platte is composes [d] almost entirely of white sand, the
particles of which, are remarkably small and light; these collecting,
form large masses, which being partially buoyed up, are hurryed along
at the bottom by this impetuous torrent, with irresistible force; sometimes
obstructed by each other, suddenly stop; and form large sand
bars in the course of a few hours, which are again as suddonly dissipated
to form others, and to give place perhaps to the deepest channel
of the river. From the experiments and observations we are enabled
to make, with rispect to the comparitive velocity of the currents of the
Mississippi, Missouri and Platte rivers, it results, that a vessel will
float in the Mississippi below the mouth of the Missouri, at the rate of
four miles an hour; in the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississippi
to the entrance of Osage river at the rate of 5 1/2 to 6 miles
an hour; from thence to the Kanzas from 6 1/2 to 7; from thence
to the Platte, from 5 1/2 to 6 miles an hour, while that of the Platte
is at least 8. The current of the Missouri above the entrance of the
Platte is equal to about 3 1/2 miles an hour as far as the mouth of the
Chyenne river, when it abates to about 3 miles an hour, with which
it continues as far as we have yet ascended it; and if we can rely on
the information of the Indians, it's current continues about the same
to the falls of the Missouri, situated five hundred miles above Fort
Mandan. The river Platte dose not furnish the Missouri with it's
colouring matter, as has been asserted by some; but it throws into it
immence quant[it]ies of sand, and gives a celerity to it's current, of
which it dose not abate untill it joins the Mississippi. The water of
the Platte is turbid at all seasons of the year, but it is by no means as
much so, as that of the Missouri; the sediment it deposits consists of
small particals of white sand, while that of the Missouri is composed
principally of a dark rich loam in much greater quantity. This river
has in some few instances been navigated as high as the Pania Village
with perogues, but it is attended with infinate labour and risk. Hunters
have also ascended this river in small canoes as high as the Woolf river,
a distance of 35 leagues; and the savages sometimes descend in small
leather canoes made of a Buffaloe's skin. When the Plat enters the
Missouri it's superior force changes and directs the current of the latter
ag[a]inst it's Northern bank, compressing it within a channel of not
more than one fifth of the width it had just before occupyed. this
river is 600 yards wide at it's entrance; and when we passed it, on
the 21st. of July, it's greatest debth of water was five feet. we were
informed by one of our engages, who is well acquainted with this river
for a considerable distance, that in many places it was from two to

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three miles wide, containing great numbers of small islands and sand
bars, and that the navigation became wo[r]se, the higher he ascended.
the banks of this river are very low, yet it is said, that it very seldom
overflows them, or rises more than about 6 feet perpendicular above
it's lowest tide. The position of the head of the Southern, or main
branch of this river is not well asscertained; on connecting the sources
of the rivers better known, it appears most probable, that it takes it's
rise in the Rockey, or shineing Mountains with the Bravo or North
river, and the Yellow stone river, branch of the Missouri; from whence
it takes it's course nearly East, passing the heads of the Arkansas at no
great distance from Santa Fee, continues it's rout to the Missouri,
through immence level and fertile plains and meadows, in which, no
timber is to be seen except on it's own borders and those of it's tributary
streams. commencing at the Missouri and ascending this river,
it's principal subsidiary streams are first the Salt river, seven leagues
distant, falls in on the S. side, and is 50 yards in width. this stream
is however more remarkable for the excellency of it's salt licks and
springs than for it's magnitude. the whole courant of this river is
brackis[h] in the Summer season quite to it's mouth. There are three
principal salines on this stream; the first at the distance of 50 miles
from it's mouth, and the others at no great distance above; two of
these furnis[h] considerable quantities of salt in it's dry and granulated
state, the other furnishes salt both granulated, and in compact masses.
the granulated salt is found on the surface of a compact and hard earth
composed of fine sand with a small proportion of clay producing no
vegitable substance of any kind and is easily collected by sweeping it
together with a soft broom or brush of feathers. the massive salt is
formed by concretion, and is found either on the surface of the earth
over which the water passes, or adhering to stones sticks or other furm
substances washed by the salt water in it's passage. I have obtained
no satisfactory account of any fossil salt being found in Louisiana, altho'
repeated enquiries have been made off such as possess the best information
of the interior parts of the country; I am therefore disposed to
believe, that those travellers who have reported it's exhistance, must
have mistaken this massive salt, formed by concretion, for that substance,
saltpetre has been found in it's crystallized state in some limestone
caverns near the head of this river.

Thre[e] leagues above the salt river a beatifull clear and gentle stream
called Corne des Cerfe, or hart's horn river discharges itself on the N.
side. it is about sixty yards wide. it takes it's rise in some sandy
plains between the Wolf River and the Quecurre; thence runing Eastwardly


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approaches the Missouri within a few leagues opposite to the
entrance of the Sioux river, thence veering about to the S. E. passes
through a fertile level country, parallel with the Missouri to the River
Platte. it is navigable a considerable distance for canoes and light perogues.
there is but little timber in the country through which it passes.

Ascending the Platte five leagues further you pass the village of the
Ottoes and Missouris situated on the S. side. 15 leagues higher up
and on the same side, the Panias Proper, and Republican Panias reside
in one large village. five leagues further still ascending, the Wolf river
falls in on the N. side. 400 hundred yards wide, and is navigable for
Perogues between 4 and 500 miles, and for large boats a very considerable
distance. This stream takes it's rise in a remarkable large fountain,
situated in a level plain, equadistant betwen the rivers Quicurre
and Plat, at some little distance below the Cote noir or Black Hills;
from whence it passes through level and fertile plains and meadows in
which there is scarcely a tree to be seen except on it's own borders, and
those of it's tributary streams. the current of this river is gentle and
sufficiently deep; it's bed is composed principally of a brown sand, unbroken
by rocks or drift wood, and has no rappids worthy of notice
from it's source to it's mouth.

At the distance of seventy five leagues higher up, Ringing Water river
falls in on the S. side, about 300 yards wide. heads in the Black hills
near the source of the Kanzas, and passes through an open tho' broken
country about half it's course; it then decends into a level and fertile
country composed almost entirely of open plains and meadows through
which it passes to the Platte.

Just above the black hills, th[r]ough which the Platte passes, a large
river said to be nearly as large as the South fork, falls in on the N. side,
after haveing continued it's rout along the Western side of the Black
hills for a very considerable distance. the distance from the entrance
of this river to the mouth of the Platte is not well asscertained. This
is usually called the Paducas fork; it heads with the Bighorn river,
branch of the Yellow Stone, in some broken ranges of the Rockey
mountains. it's upper portion passes through a hilly, broken and Mountanous
country, possessing considerable quantities of timber; it then
descends to a plain open and level country lying between the Rockey
Mounts and the black hills, through which it passes to join the Platte.
there are some considerable bodies of woodland on and near this stream.

The smaller branches of the rivers Platte & Wolf so far as they are
known to us are as follows; they uniformly water a level open country
generally fertile.


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Names of streams falling into the Platte  Distances
from the
Missouri
in leagues 
width
in
yards 
side of
the river
on which
they
discharge 
Shell river  27  30  N. 
Short Leg river  40  30  S. 
Deer Creek  52  28  S. 
The Falling Creek  70  20  S. 
T[h]ose of the Loups, or Wolf River 
Little willow Creek  42  25  N. 
Mustle shell Creek  45  20  N. 
Elk Creek  49  26  S. 
Gravley Creek  54  20  S. 
White Bluff creek  64  20  S. 
Deepwater Creek  79  25  S. 

Three miles above the entrance of the river Platte Butterfly Creek
falls in on the S. side, 18 yards wide, heads in the plains between the
Hart's Horn river and the Missouri; the courntry fertile with but little
timber.

7 miles higher Musquetoe Creek falls in on the N. side; it is 22
yards wide and heads with the Nishnahbatona river in an open country.
the Missouri bottom through which it passes is about 6 miles wide, level,
extreemly fertile and about one half well covered with timber.

20 miles further Indian Creek falls in opposite to the lower point of
an Island on the N. side, three miles above an old Ayouway's village.
it heads in the highlands a few miles back; passes through the Missouri
bottom and approaches the river within 20 feet, 6 miles above it's entrance;
at this point it is 5 feet higher than the water of the Missouri.
it is 15 yards wide.

8 miles higher up Bowyer's river falls in on the N. side. it is 25
yards wide, and navigable for perogues some distance; passes through
a country tolerably fertile, with but little timber.

Twelve miles above the mouth of Bowyer's river we arrive at the
Council Bluff on the S. side. this is one of the points, which in our
statistical view of the Indian Nations of Louisiana, we have recommended
as an eligible position for a trading establishment. it is a delightfull
situation for a fortification, & commands a view of the river
both above and below for a considerable distance. the base of the
Bluff is washed by the river about a mile; it is about 60 feet high &
nearly perpendicular; at it's lower extremity it leaves the river nearly
at right angles, decending with a handsome and regular declivity on


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it's lower side about 40 feet to a high, level, fertile and extensive bottom,
lying betwen itself and the river. the top of the bluff is a level plain
from one to two miles in width, and about five miles in length. This
place would be sufficiently convenient for the Ottoes, Missouris, Panias
Proper, Panias, Loups, Panias Republican, Poncaras, Mahas, & the
Yanktons Ahnah. if peace is established between the various tribes of
Indians inhabiting this immence country, it is more than probable, that
this post would also be visited by many of those wandering bands, who
inhabit the country west of the black hills. The principal difficulty
which will attend the erection of a fortification at this place is the want
of proper timber with which to build. there is a sufficient quantity of
a species of poplar common to all the bottom lands of the Missouri,
called by the French inhabitants of the Illinois—Liard, and by the
Americans Cotton-wood. it is a soft white wood, by no means dureable,
and of which it is extreemly difficult to make plank or scantling. there
is some oak in the neighbourhood but it is of an inferior quality. I concieve
that the cheepest and best method would be to build of brick, the
ea[r]th appears to be of an excellent quality for brick, and both lime
and sand are convenient. The drift wood of the Missouri will always
supply a sufficient quantity of fuell independant of that in the neighbourhood.
with rispect to quality and quantity of timber, this bluff is
better situated than any other for upwards of a thousand miles above it,
and equal to any below it for many miles.

Leaving the council Bluff and ascending the Missouri 39 miles we
arrive at the mouth of Soldier's river 30 yards wide. it heads with the
river Demoin, and passes to the Missouri through an open, level and
fertile country. is navigable for perogues a considerable distance.

44 miles further up Ye-yeau War da-pon or stone river falls in on the
N. side. this river is known to the traders of the Illinois by the name
of little Sioux river, but as they have given the appellation of Sioux to
four distinct streams we thought it best to adopt the name given it by
the Siouxs, to whos[e] country it's entrance forms the lower boundary
on the Missouri. this stream is 80 yards wide at it's entrance; takes
it's rise in a small lake nine miles distant from the River demoin, with
which, it communicates in high water through a small channel; the
river demoin is but shallow at this point tho' it is 70 or 80 yards wide,
and said to be navigable. this stream is navigable from it's sou[r]ce to
the Missouri for perogues or canoes, passes through a broken country
with but little timber. the land is tolerably fertile. an Easterly and
most navigable fork of this river is formed by the discharge of Lake
Dispree [d'Esprit or Spirit Lake] 22 leagues in circumference; this


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lake is long not very wide and approaches the river demoin within 15
miles. the country between the Demoin and Lake Dispree is level
with but little timber, and interrupted with a number of small lakes or
ponds.

From the entrance of the Ye-yeau War da-pon, to the Old Maha Village,
a distance of 100 miles, there is not a single stream which discharges
itself into the Missouri, that is worthy of' notice. The Maha
creek
, on which the last village occupyed by that nation was situated at
some little distance from the Missouri, discharges itself on the S. side
through several channels. this creek is but small, takes it's rise in some
level and fertile praries near the Hart's Horn river and passes through
a delightfull country in it's course to the Missouri. the distance from
the old Maha village to the Council Bluff is 90 miles by land.

16 miles higher up Floyds river falls in on the N. side 38 yards wide.
This river is the smallest of those called by the trade[r]s of the Illinois
the two rivers of the Sioux, but which with a view to discrimination, we
have thought proper to call Floyd's river in honor of Sergt. Charles Floyd,
a worthy and promising young man, one of our party who unfortunately
died on the 20th. of August 1804, and was buried on a high bluff just
below the entrance of this stream. This river takes it's rise with the
waters of the rivers Sioux and Demoin; from whence it takes it's course
nearly S. W. to the Missouri, meandering through level and fertile,
plains and meadows, intersperced with groves of timber. it is navigable
for perogues nearly to it's source.

3 miles above Floyds river, The river Sioux disembogues on the N.
side above a bluff; it is one hundred and ten yards wide at it's entrance,
and navigable nearly to it's source; with the exception of one fall of
about twenty feet high, situated 70 leages from it's mouth. it takes it's
rise with the St. Peter's and Vulter rivers, in a high broken and woody
country called the Hills of the prarie. it waters a deversifyed country,
generally level fertile and uncovered with timber; in some parts particularly,
near the falls, it is broken & stoney, and in others, intersected by
a great number of small lakes which possess some timber generally on
their borders. at no great distances below the falls and in a remarkable
bend of the river, three handsom streams fall in on it's East Side at no
great distance from each other; the 1st. ascending is the Prickley Pear river,
which takes It's rise in some small lakes near the Demoin the 2nd. The
River of the Rock
, passes the head of the River Demoin, and takes it's
rise in small lakes. the third is called red pipe stone river, which heads
with the waters of the River St. Peters. the country watered by this last
river is remarkable for furnishing a red stone, of which the savages make


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their most esteemed pipes. the Indians of many nations travel vast
distances to obtain this stone, and it is ascerted, tho' with what justice
I will not pretend to determine, that all nations are at peace with each
other while in this district of country, or on the waters of this river.

Sixty miles above the Sioux river the White Stone river discharges
itself on the N. side. it is 30 yards wide at it's entrance, heads in a
chain of Nobs West of the bend of the Sioux river, and passes in it's
whole course through level—beautifull and fertile plains and meadows
entirely destitute of timber. it is not navigable.

20 miles higher up little bow creek falls in on the S side, below an
old Maha village. it is 20 yards wide and waters a beautifull, fertile,
plain, and open country. the remains of two small ancient fortifications,
are found on this creek at a short distance from it's entrance.

12 Miles higher up, and distant 974 from the junction of the Missouri
and Mississippi, the river James discharges itself; it is 90 yards
wide, and navigable for perogues a very considerable distance; it's current
is gentle and it's bed composed of mud and sand. it takes it's
rise with Chyinne river, branch of Red river which discharges itself into
Lake Winipic. This st[r]eam pases through an open country of plains
and meadows through it's whole course. the land is generally fertile,
and a scant proportion of timber is found on the banks of the river.
The Siouxs annually hold a fair on some part of this river, in the latter
end of May. thither the Yanktons of the North, and the Sissitons,
who trade with a Mr. Cammaron on the head of the St. Peters river,
bring guns, pouder & balls, kettles, axes, knives, and a variety of European
manufactures, which they barter to the 4 bands of Tetons and the
yanktons Ahnah, who inhabit the borders of the Missouri & upper part
of the River Demoin, and receive in exchange horses, leather lodges,
and buffaloe robes, which they have either manufactured, or plundered
from other Indian nations on the Missouri and west of it. This traffic
is sufficient to keep the Siouxs of the Missouri tolerably well supplyed
with arms and amunition, thus rendering them independant of the trade
of the Missouri, and enableing them to continue their piratical aggressions
on all who attempt to ascend that river, as well as to disturb
perpetually the tranquility of all their Indian neighbours. I am perfectly
convinced that untill such measures are taken by our government
as will effectually prohibit all intercourse or traffic with the Siouxs by
means of the rivers Demoin and St. Peters, that the Citizens of the
United States can never enjoy, but partially, those important advantages
which the navigation of the Missouri now presents. it appears to me
that with the assistance of the garrisons of St. Louis, and Chicargoo,


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with the establishment of two others, the one at or near the entrance
of the Oisconsin and the other on the Mississippi at Sand lake, that the
passages of the trade[r]s to the rivers Demoin and St. Peters would be
sufficiently guarded. by prohibiting the trade with the Siouxs through
the St. Peters and Demoin for a few years, they will be made to feel
their dependance on the will of our government for their supplies of
merchandize, and in the course of two or three years, they may most
probably be reduced to order without the necessity of bloodshed. in
the mean time the trade of the Missouri will be acquiring a strength,
and regularity within itself, and an influence among other Indian nations,
which could not be easily interrupted by the Siouxs, when the government
should hereafter t[h]ink proper to reestablish an intercourse with
them, through the channels of the St. Peter's and Demoin rivers.

At the distance of 38 miles higher up Plumb Creek falls in on the
N. side. this creek is but small, heads in the highlands a few miles
back, and passes through beatifull level and fertile praries in it's course
to the Missouri.

8 miles higher up white Paint Creek, falls in on the S. side, 28 yards
in width. it takes it's rise in a broken Hilly and open country between
the Quicurre and Hart's horn rivers. passes through a broken country
with some handsome plains an[d] praries, it is not navigable. but possesses
many excellent situations for grist mills and other waterworks.

6 miles above this creek and at the distance of 1026 from the entrance
of the Missouri, the River Quiccurre (Qui-court.) or rappid river,
discharges itself on the S. side; where it is one hundred and fifty two
yards wide. this river takes it's rise in the Black hills, about one hundred
leages West of it's mouth, and passes through a variagated country.
at it's source and for seventy five leagues below the country is mountanous
rockey and thickly covered with timber, principally pine; the
bed of the river is interrupted by immence quant[it]ies of loose and
broken rocks, many ledges of rocks also lie ac[r]oss this stream over
which it tumbles perpendicularly from 6 to 15 feet. in this country
the Indians as well as some of the French hunters report the existence
[of] many mines. some of lead, others of a metal resembleing lead,
but of a lighter colour more dense & equally malleable; it is not stated
to be silver. this metal is said to be readily extracted from it's ore
which is a loose earth, with the heat of a common fire of wood. there
are said to be some sand plains of considerable extent lying between the
upper portion of this river and the Hart's Horn river. the country on
it's lower portion for 25 leagues consists of open plains and meadows,
with but a very small proportion of timber; the bed of the river here


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consists entirely of a coarse brown sand. the velocity of it's current
is nearly or quite equal to that of Platte. it is not navigable a single
mile.

8 mile above the rappid rive[r] the Poncar river disembogues on the
S side, 30 yards wide. Three miles from the mo[u]th of this river on
it[s] S. side the Poncars resided a few years since in a fortifyed village,
but have now joined the Mahas and become a wandering people. Poncar
river heads in the open plains not far from the mouth of White
river, and runs nearly parallel with the Missouri passing through some
tolerably fertile plains and meadows.

At the distance of 114 miles higher up, White river discharges itself
on the S. side. it is 300 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable
for boats and perogues for many leagues. this river is perfectly the
Missouri in miniture, resembleing it in every particular. it takes it's
rise short of the black hills, with the waters of the C[he]yenne and
rappid rivers, in an open country; from whence it passes through level
and fertile plains & meadows, in which there is scarsely any timber to
be seen. some pine most probably grows on it's borders, I discovered
several sticks of that timber among the driftwood at it's entrance.

22 Miles higher up, the Three rivers of the Siouxs pass discharge
themselves, on the N. side, opposite to a large Island well covered with
timber. the 1st. of these streams which we meet with as we ascend is
35 yards wide, and is navigable for perogues some distance, with a few
obstructions of rappids or shoals. it heads with James's river, and
possesses but little timber on it's borders. the country on the upper
side of this river is a high level and fertile plain of many leagues in
exten[t] the lower side generally broken Praries, neither possessing any
timber worthy of mention. the other two streams are small, extending
only about 8 miles back, and water a country of high handsome and
fertile plains, with but little timber.

From hence to the commencement of the big bend is twenty miles;
in this distance you pass four small Creeks, which discharge themselves
on the S. side, and one on the N. side; these creeks take their rise at
the distance of 6 or 7 miles in the open plains, and possess but little
timber. the bottoms of the Missouri are generally wide and but badly
timbered. the big bend of the Missouri lies in a circular form, and is
30 miles around, while it is only one mile and a quarter across the
gorge.

5 miles above the uper extremity of this bend Tylor's river falls in, on
the S. side. this river is about 35 yards wide, and is navigable some miles
for perogues. it takes it's rise in an open country between the White


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river and river Teton, and passes through a level fertile and open country.
below the mouth of this river on the Missouri there is an extensive bottom
well covered with timber, consisting principally of red cedar.

55 miles higher up, the Teton River discharges itself on the S. side.
this river is seventy yards wide, and is navigable for perogues many
leagues. it heads with the waters of the Chyenne and White rivers,
and passes through open and fertile plains and meadows. possesses
some timber on it's borders, as do also it's tributary streams. in these
plains there is rarely an instance of a tree to be seen.

47. miles above the entrance of the Teton river and 1327 from the
Mouth of the Missouri, the rive[r] Chyenne disembogues on the S.
side, and is abot 400 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable for
perogues to it's forks near the black hills, a distance of 200 miles by
land, nearly due west from it's entrance. The Northern branch of
this river penetrates the Black hills, and passes through a high broken
well timbered country to it's source, the Southern fork takes it's rise in
the Black hills, on their E side, and passes through a broken country
covered with timber, to it's junction with the N fork; from whence
united, they take their course through a woody and broken country
fror some few leagu[e]s, then entering an open fertile and level country
it continues it's rout to the Missouri the timber of the Black hills,
and on this river near them, consists of pine and Cedar principally; on
it's lower portion Cottonwood and Cedar, of which however there is
but a scant proportion and that confined immediately to the river hills
and bottoms. about the entrance of this river we have recommended
an establishment for the purpose of trading with the Indians. it's position
is central and sufficiently convenient for a number of Nations and
tribes; but the difficulty of procuring timber for the purpose of building
is very considerable, tho' in this particular it is equal to any other
for an emence distance both above and below it. a difficulty also arises
with rispect to lime of which there is none in it's neighbourhood. large
quantities of tar may be procured on the river near the Black hills, and
may be readily brought down the river. tar and sand in the proportion
of one gallon to the Bushel, make a furm and strong cement. if an
establishment is made at this place, the work must of necessity be
principally formed of brick; there being no stone and but little timber.
the drift-wood of the Missouri will supply an ample quantity of fuell.

78 miles higher up, Otter Creek falls in on the N. side, 22 yards
wide, navigable a few miles in high water. it takes it's rise in open
plains nearly E. of it's entrance, and passes through a similar country;
very little timber in it's vicinity.


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3 miles higher up, and on the S. side, the Sar-war-car-na river discharges
itself, 90 yards wide. it is navigable for perogues 40 or 50
leagues; takes it's rise short of the Black Hills with the waters of the
Chyenne; from whence it meanders through fertile and level plains and
meadows, almost entirely destitute of timber.

22 miles above, We-ter-hoo river discharges itself on the S. side. this
stream is 120 yards wide; and may be navigated nearly to it's source
in the Black Hills. It passes through a country similar to that discribed
on the Sar-war-kar-na.

2 miles higher up, and the same distance below an island on which
[is] the lower village of the Ricaras, the river Ma-ro-pa falls in, on the
the S. side; it is 25 yards wide at it's entrance; takes it's rise about 5
leagues west of the the entrance of the war-re-con-ne river, in open
plains. it passes through an uneven roling country, without timber,
and but badly watered, for the distance of about 50 miles, nearly
parallel to the Missouri, before it discharges itself. The Ricaras
obtain a red and black earth on the borders of this stream, which they
use for the purpose of painting their skins, or ornamenting their Buffaloe
robes, which at all seasons of the year constitutes a principal article of
their dress.

Leaving the mouth of this river and ascending the Missouri, at the
distance of 2 1/2 miles you pass the 1st. Ricara village, from 3 1/2 to 4
miles further, you pass two others situated on the South side near the
river. still ascending at the distance of 24 miles above the entrance of
Ma-ro-pa river, the Stone Idol Creek falls in on the N. side; 18 yards
wide. it heads in a small lake a few leagues distant and passes through
a rich level plain; the land is fertile but without timber. a canoe can
pass from the river to this lake.

37 miles higher up, Sar-kar-nak or Beaver Creek falls in on the N.
side, at the lower point of an Island. about 20 yards wide, heads in
some small lakes a few miles from the river, and passes through a level
fertile and open country.

3 Miles further still ascending, and at the distance of 1498 miles from
the entrance of the Missouri, War-re-con-ne river falls in on the N. side
just above an island. it is 35 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable
in high water to it's source. takes it's rise in an assemblage of
small lakes, in level and open plains, not very distant from the head
of James's river. in it's course to the Missouri it passes through extensive,
level and fertile, plains and meadows, in which scarsely a tree
is to be seen.

13 miles higher up the Cannon Ball river falls in on the S. side, and


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is 140 yards wide. it is navigable for boats a considerable distance,
with a few interruptions of rappids, and for perogues and Canoes nearly
to it's source. it takes it's rise in a level country with the Chesschetar
and the waters of the Wetarhoo rivers, from whence in it's course to
the Missouri it passes through a variety of country, some broken &
partially timbered, near it's source; other parts broken, hilly and bare
of timber, and in others beautifull and extensive plains and meadows,
with but little timber, all sufficiently fertile, and some extreemly so.
there is some Cottonwood, Ash and Elm on it's borders.

5 miles higher up the Fish Creek discharges itself on the N. Side; 28
yards wide. it takes it's rise in small lakes, in the open plains, and
passes through handsome plains and meadows, in it's course to the
Missouri; but little timber on it's borders.

35 miles higher up, Chess-che-tar, or heart river falls in on the S. W.
side; 38 yards wide; not navigable except in high water, and then but
a short distance. it heads with the waters of the Knife river in open
plains S. W. of the turtle mountain. in it's course to the Missouri it
passes through open plains and meadows, generally fertile, and always
untimbered. there is some Ash, Cottonwood, and Elm on it's borders.

14 miles higher up, Hunting creek discharges itself on the S. side.
it's bottom lands are wide and fertile with but little timber, takes it's
rise in, and passes through an open country of high plains.

50 miles higher up at the distance of 1,615 miles from the junction
of the Missouri and Mississippi, the Knife river falls in near the Village
of the Ahwahharways on the S. side a little above the Mandans. this
river is about 80 yards wide, but is not navigable, except for a few days
in the spring of the year. It takes it's rise in the turtle Mountains
about 90 Miles N. W. of it's mouth, and passes through an open
fertile country. there is a considerable quantity of timber on the upper
part of this river, and much more on it's borders generally than is met
with on streams of the same size in this open country. The Minetares,
Ahwahharways, and Mandans hunt principally on this river, and
many of [the] Minetares pass the winter on it, in small parties, of 5 or
six families.

As we have only ascended the Missouri, a few miles above the
Mouth of Knife river, the subsequent discription of this river, and it's
subsidiary streams are taken altogether from Indian Information. the
existence of these rivers, their connection with each other, and their
relative positions with rispect to the Missouri, I conceive are entitled
to some confidence. information has been obtained on this subject, in
the course of the winter, from a number of individuals, questioned


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seperately and at different times. the information thus obtained has
been carefully compared, and those points only in which they generally
agreed, have been retained, their distances they give, by days travel,
which we have estimated at 25 miles pr. day.

About fifteen miles above the mouth of Knife river, the E-pe,-âh-zhah,
or Miry river discharges itself on the N. Side. it is but an inconsiderable
stream as to width, but extends itself through level and open plains
about 30 miles N. E. of it's entrance, taking it's rise in some small
lakes, strongly impregnated with Glauber Salts. not navigable.

Ascending the Missouri about one hundred miles further, the E-mâh-tark', Ah'-zhah. or Little Missouri discharges itself on the S. side. about
the width of Knife river. takes it's rise in the No [r] thern extremity of
the Blackhills. and passes through a broken country with but little
timber. it passes near the turtle mountain in it's course to the Missouri.
it is said not to be navigable in consequence of it's rappidity and shoals.

About 117 miles higher up, the Ok-hâh-Ah-zhah, or White earth
river
, discharges itself on the N. side. it is said to be about the size
of the Cannonball river; takes it's rise N. Westwardly from it's mouth
in level open plains with the waters of the S. fork of the Saskashawin
river, and passes through an open and level country generally without
timber some timber on the borders of this stream, it is navigable nearly
to it's source, which is said not to be very distant, from the establishment
of the N. West Company on the S. branch of the Saskashawin. if
this information be correct it is highly probable that a line drawn due
West from the lake of the Woods, in conformity to our treaty with
Great Britain, would intersect the waters of this river, if so the boundary
of the United States would pass Red river betwen the entrance of
the Assinniboin and Lake Winnipic, including those rivers almost entirely,
and with them the whole of the British trading establishments
on the red Lake, Red river and the Assinniboin should the portage
between the Saskashawin and White earth river, prove not to be very
distant or difficult, it is easy to conceive the superior advantages, which
the Missouri offers as a rout to the Athabasca country, compared with
that commonly traveled by the traders of Canada.

About 3 miles above the mouth of White Earth river the Me'-ah'-zah,
or Yellowstone river discharges itself on the S. side. this river is
said to be nearly as large as the Missouri, but is more rappid. it takes
it's rise in the Rocky mountains, with the waters of a river on which
the Spaniards reside; but whether this stream be the N. river, or the
waters of the Gulph of California, our information dose not enable
us to determine. from it's source it takes it's course for many miles


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through broken ranges of the Rocky mountains, principally broken, and
stoney, and thickly timbered. the vallies said to be wide in many
places and the lands fertile. after leaving the Rocky mountains it
decends into a country more level, tho' still broken, fertile and well
timbered. this discription of country continues as far down as the Oke-tar-pas-ah
ha, where the river enters an open level and fertile country
through which it continues it's rout to the Missouri; even in this open
country it possesses considerable bodies of well timbered land. there
are no stream [s] worthy of notice which discharge themselves into this
river on the N. side, the country between this river and the Missouri
being watered by the Mussle shell river. the yellow Stone river is
navigable at all seasons of the year, for boats or perogues to the foot of
the Rocky Mountains, near which place, it is said to be not more than
20 miles distant from the most southernly of the three forks of the
Missouri, which last is also navigable to this point. if Indian information
can be relied on, this river waters one of the fairest portions of
Louisiana, a country not yet hunted, and abounding in animals of the
fur kind. The bed of this river is formed of sand gravel and yellow
rock. from the great rapidity of this stream after it enters the rocky
mountains, it is said not to be navigable. we are informed that there
is a sufficiency of timber near the mouth of this river for the purpose
of erecting a fortification, and the necessary buildings. in point of
position, we have no hesitation in declaring our belief, of it's being one
of the most eligible and necessary, that can be chosen on the Missouri,
as well in a governmental point of view, as that of affording to our
citizens the benefit of a most lucrative fur trade. this establishment
might be made to hold in check the views of the British N. West Company
on the fur-trade of the upper part of the Missouri, which we believe
it is their intention to monopolize if in their power. They have
for several years maintained a partial trade with the Indian nations on
the Missouri near this place, over land from their establishment at the
entrance of Mouse river on the Assinniboin, unlicenced by the Spanish
government, then the sovereigns of the country. But since the U'States
have acquired Louisiana, we are informed, that relying on the privilege
extended to them by our treaty with Great Britain, they intend fixing
a permanent establishment on the Missouri near the mouth of Knife
river, in the course of the present summer. if this powerfull and ambitious
company, are suffered uninterruptedly to prosecute their trade
with the nations inhabiting the upper portion of the Missouri, and thus
acquire an influence with those people; it is not difficult to conceive
the obstructions, which they might hereafter through the medium of that

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Page 53
influence, oppose to the will of our government, or the navigation
of the Missouri. whether the privileges extended to British subjects, under
existing treaties with that power, will equally effect a territory not in
our possession at the time those treaties were entered into, is not for me
to determine; but it appears to me, that in this rispect Liouisiana is
differently situated, from the other territory of the United States.

The tributary streams of the Yellow stone river so far as we have
been enabled to inform ourselves are as follow.

                 
Names of the subsidiary streams of the Yellow Stone river,
ascending from it's entrance 
distance from each
other & of the 1st.
from the mouth
of the river 
side on which
they discharge. 
Miles 
Oke-tar-pas-ah-ha  75  S. 
War-rah-sash, or Powder river  75  S. 
Le-ze-ka, or tongue river  50  S. 
Mar-skas-kap river  100  S. 
Ark tar-ha river  125  S. 
Ar-sar-ta, or big-horn  75  S. 
Stinking Cabbin creek  175  S. 

About one hundred fifty miles on a direct line, a little to the N. of
West, a river falls in on the N. side called by the Minetares Ah-mâh-tâh,
ru-shush-sher or the river which scolds at all others. this river
they state to be of considerable size, and from it's position and the
direction which they give it, we believe it to be the channel through
which, those small streams, on the E side of the Rocky mountains laid
down by Mr. Fidler, pas to the Missouri. it takes it's source in the
Rocky mountains S. of the waters of the Askow or bad river. and
passes through a broken country in which, there is a mixture of woodlands
and praries. it is worthy of remark that, the Missouri in it's
course from the mouth of the yellow stone river to the entrance of this
rivr. passes considerably further to the North than the mouths of either
of these rivers; this information we have received since our map has
been completed. it will be observed by reference to the map, that
there are no streams falling in-to the Askow on it's S. side, from which,
it is probable, that the country nearly to it's borders, is watered by the
streams of some other river, and as the Missouri runs considerably N.
above the Mouth of the Yellow stone river. and that on it's nothern
border no stream of any magnitude discharges itself except the scolding
river, the probability is that the country very near to the Askow is
watered by the little rivulets of the Missouri, and the branches of the


54

Page 54
s[c]olding river. I have scarsely a doubt, but that a line drawn due
West from the Lake of the Woods, in conformity to our treaty with
Great Britain, will intersect the waters of the Missouri, if not the main
body of that river itself.

About 120 miles on a direct line, nearly S. W. the Mah-tush,-ah-zhah,
or Muscle shell river falls in on the S. side. this river is about
the size of the Cannonball river, heads in a range of mountains which
commence about the falls of the Missouri, and extending themselves
nearly South terminate near the yellow stone river. this stream passes
through a broken and woody country. The woody country commences
on the Missouri just above the mouth of this river.

About 120 miles further a little to the S. of West, on a direct line,
the great falls of the Missouri are situated, this is discribed by the
Indians as a most tremendious Cataract. they state that the nois it
makes can be heard at a great distance, that the whole body of the
river tumbles over a precipice of solid and even rock, many feet high;
that such is the velocity of the water before it arrives at the precipice,
that it projects itself many feet beyond the base of the rock, between
which, and itself, it leaves a vacancy sufficiently wide for several persons
to pass abrest underneath the torrent, from bank to bank, without
weting their feet, they also state that there is a fine open plain on the
N. side of the falls, through which, canoes and baggage may be readily
transported. this portage they assert is not greater than half a mile, and
that the river then assumes it's usual appearance, being perfectly
navigable.

About 15 miles further on a direct line a little to the S. of W. a
large stream called Mah-pah-pah,-ah-zhah, or Medicine river falls in on
the N. side. this river heads in the rocky Mountains opposite to a
river which also takes it's rise in the same mountains and which runing
West discharges itself into a large river, which passes at no great
distance from the Rocky mountains, runing from N. to South. it passes
through a mountanous, broken and woody country. not navigable in
consequence of it's rapidity and shoals.

About 60 miles further on a direct line nearly S. W. the Missouri
passes through the first connected chain of the Rocky mountains. and
is said to be rapid and shoaly from hence to the second chain of the
rocky Mountains a distance of 75 miles further, about the same course
last mentioned. above this second range of mountains the current of
the Missouri is said to be smoth even and gentle; here two small rivers
fall in on the S. side, receiving their waters from the west side [of]
these mountains between the Missouri and the Yellow stone river.


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Still proceeding S. W. about 75 miles further the Missouri divides
itself into three nearly equal branches just above a third chain of very
high mountains, all these streams are navigable for some distance. the
most No [r] thern is the largest, and is navigable to [the] foot of [a]
chain of high mountains, being the ridge which divides the the waters of
the Atlantic from those of the Pacific ocean. the Indians assert that
they can pass in half a day from the foot of this mountain on it's East
side to a large river which washes it's Western base, runing from S. to
N. at no great distance below the Flat-head Indians live in one considerable
village on the western border of this river, this is the utmost
extent of the war exurtions of the Minetares and we have therefore
been unable to acquire any information further West than the view
from the top of thes[e] mountains extend. The Indians inform us that
the country on the Western side of this river consists of open & level
plains like those they themselves inhabit, with a number of barren sandy
nobs irregularly scattered over the face of the country; the E. side of the
river, betwen it and the mountains is broken, and thickly covered with
pine. they state that there are no buffaloe west of the second range of
the Rockey mountains, and that the Flat-heads live principally on a large
fish, which they take in the river on which they reside. The Snake
Indians also frequently visit this Western river at certain seasons of the
year, for the purpose of taking fish which they dry in the sun and transport
on horses to their villages on the three forks of the Missouri. This
river we suppose to be the S. fork of the Columbia, and the fish the
Salmon, with which we are informed the Columbia river abounds. this
river is said to be rapid but as far as the Indian informants are acquainted
with it is not intercepted with shoals. it's bed consists principally
of sand and gravel.

The waters of the Missouri are transparent at all seasons of the year
above the falls.

With rispect to other rivers, their Subsidiary streams, and their connection
with other rivers and streams, the map which is herewith forwarded,
will give you a more perfict idea, than a detaled discription of
them would do. the mountains, salines, trading establishments, and all
the other remarkable places, so far as known to us, are also laid down
on this map.

Meriwether Lewis Capt.
1st. U's Regt. Infty.
 
[13]

Found in Codex O, pp. 19–128, and apparently written at Fort Mandan during
the winter of 1804–05.—Ed.

[14]

The Cuivre River, which falls into the Mississippi a little below Hastings,
Ill.—Ed.


56

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C. CLARK'S SUMMARY STATEMENT OF RIVERS, CREEKS,
AND MOST REMARKABLE PLACES.

CLARK made three tabulations of this character:
(1) That found in Codex C, pp. 242–253, having
been drawn up at Fort Mandan; (2) another in
Codex I, pp. 2–12 (also, substantially the same, in Clark-Voorhis
note-book No. 4), made at Fort Clatsop, and giving
the route out; and (3) a final draft, both in Codex N, pp.
128–142, and in Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4, prepared apparently
after the return home. The third tabulation seeks to
give the best route from the mouth of the Missouri to the
Pacific Ocean, and includes Lewis's short-cut path homeward,
between Travellers' Rest Creek and the Falls of the Missouri
—given, however, in the reverse order. We have, for convenience
of consultation, herein amalgamated these several
statements.——Ed.]

A Summary Statement of the Rivers Creeks and most remarkable
places, their distances from each other &c. their distances
from the Mississippi assending the Missouri, across the Rocky
mountains and down the Columbia to the Pacific Ocian as was
explored in the year 1804, 5, and 6, by Capts. Lewis & Clark &c

                       
Names of remarkable places.  The width of
rivers
and
creeks
in yds
Side on
which
they are
Situated 
Distance
from one
place to
another 
Distances
up the
Missouri
from the
Mississippi 
Latitude North
of important
Places 
River Dubois Latitude 38° 55′ 19.6″
Longtd 89° 57′ 45″ 
yards  Ms  Ms 
To the Village of St Charles  N.E.  21  21  38° 54′ 39″ 
" Bon-homme Creek  —  S.W  12  33 
" the Osage Womans River  30  N.E.  20  41 
" a Cave Called the Tavern  —  S.W  47 
" " Chauretts Village & Creek  20  N.E.  27  68 
" " Shepherds Creek  S.W.  15  83 
" " Gasconnade River  157  S.W.  17  100  38° 44′ 35.3″ 
" " Muddy River  50  N.E.  15  115 
" Grand Osage River  397  S.W.  18  133  38° 31′ 16.9″ 
" the Murrow Creek  20  S.W.  138 


57

Page 57

                                                                         
Names of remarkable places.  The
width of
rivers
and
creeks
in yds
Side on
which
they are
Situated 
Distance
from one
place to
another 
Distances
up the
Missouri
from the
Mississippi 
Latitude North
of important
Places 
yards  Ms  Ms 
To the Cedar Island & Creek  20  N.E.  145 
" " Lead Mine Hill  S.W.  154 
" " Manitou Creek  20  S.W.  162 
" " Split rock Creek  20  N.E.  170 
" " Saline or Salt River  30  S.W.  173 
" " Manitou River  30  N.E.  182 
" " Good Womans River  35  N.E.  191 
" " Mine River  70  S.W.  200 
" " Arrow Prarie  S.W.  206 
'Two Charliton Rivers  {30 70  N.E.  14.  220 
" " antient village of the Missouri
Nation near which place Fort
Orleans stood 
N.E.  16  236 
" Grand River  90  N.E.  240  38° 47′ 34″ 
" " Snake Creek  18  N.E.  246 
" " antient village of the little
Osarge 
S.W.  10  256 
" 'Tiger's Island and Creek  25  N.E.  20  276 
" Eueberts[15] Island Creek  S.W.  12  388 
" 'Fire prarie Creek  S.W.  12  300 
" " Fort point  S.W.  306 
" " Hay Cabin Creek  20  S.W.  312 
" " Coal Bank  S.W.  321 
" " Blue water River  30  S.W.  10  331 
" Kanza River  230  S.W.  340  39° 5′ 25.7″ 
" the Lite River Platt  60  N.E.  349 
" [point] 1/2 Ms. above Dimond Island  S.W.  —  —  39° 9′ 38.6″ 
" the Waarba, Warconda Island
oppoe the 1st. Old Kanzas
Villag 
—  S.W.  26  377 
" 3 Ms. bel, the 2d. old village of
the Kance 
—  S.W.  —  —  39° 25′ 47.5″ 
" " Indepeance Creek a mile below
the old Kanzas Village 
S.W.  28  405 
" " St Michis prarie  N.E.  25  430 
" " Nadawaver  70  N.E.  20  450  39° 39′ 22.4″ 
" " Wolf or up River  60  S.W.  14  464 
" Big Ne-me-hRiver  80  S.W.  16  480  39° 55′ 56″ 
" the Tar-ki-o eek  23  N.E.  483 
opposit the center of Good Island  —  S.W.  —  —  40° 20′ 12″ 
" " Neesh-nah-b-to-no River  50  N.E.  25  508 
" " Little Ne-Mahar River  48  S.W.  516  40° 8′ 31.8″[16]  


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Page 58

                                                                 
Names of remarkable places.  The
width of
rivers
and
creeks
in yds
Side on
which
they are
Situated 
Distance
from one
place to
another 
Distances
up the
Missouri
from the
Mississippi 
Latitude North
of important
Places 
yards  Ms  Ms 
To the Bald Pated Prarie the Neesh-}
Nahbatona within 150 Yards
of the Missouri 
—  N.E.  23  539  40° 27′ 6.4″ 
Pt opposit to a Island being
the extremity of the 4th. course
of July 19th. on L. S. 
—  S.W  —  —  40° 29′ 38″' 
" " Weeping Water Creek  25  S.W.  29  568 
" " River Platt (or Shoal river  600  S.W.  32  600  40° 54′ 35″ 
" " Butterfly or papelion Creek  18  S.W. 
" " Musquetor Creek  22  N.E.  610 
" " Camp Pt. of observn. 10 ms.
N. 15° W of Platt R White
Catfish Camp
 
—  S.W.  —  —  41° 3′ 104″ 
" " antiant Village of the Ottoes  S.W.  11 
" " antient Ayauways Village below
a Bluff on the N. E. Side 
N.E. 
" " Bowyers river  25  N.E.  11 
" Councill Bluffs (establishmt.)  S.W.  12  650  41° 17' 0″ 
opposit pond Inlet August 4th —  S.W.  —  —  41° 2′ 3″ 
on the Side of a Sand Island August
5th
—  —  —  —  41° 0' 6″ 
" Soldiers River  40  N.E.  39  689 
" Ea-neah, Wau-de-pon or Stone
River Little Sieux R. 
80  N.E.  44  733  41 42′ 34.3″ 
" the hill where the Late King of
the Mahars was buried on a high
hill 
S.W.  4° 1′ 3.8″ 
" the Wau-can-de or bad sperit Creek  S.W.  55  788 
around a bend of the river to the
N. E. the Gorge of which is only
974 Yds 
21  809 
To an Island 3 miles N E of the Mahar
vilg Camp Fish augt. 14th
27  836  42° 13′ 41″ 
" Floyds Bluff and River  35  N.E.  14  85 
" the Big Sieoux River  110  N.E.  853  42° 23′ 49″ 
" " commencement of the Copperas
cobalt, pirites and alum
bluffs 
S.W.  27  80 
To the Hot or burning Bluffs  S.W.  30  10 
" " White Stone River  30  N.E.  918 
" " Petite Arc an old Mahar Village.
at the mouth of little
bow Creek 
15  S.W.  20  938 
" River Jacque or James River  90  N.E.  12  950  42° 53′ 13″ 
" the calumet Bluffs (of mineral)  S.W.  10  960 
" Antient fortification Good mans 1sd S.W.  16  976 
" Plumb Creek  12  N.E.  10  986 
" White paint Creek  28  S.W.  994 
" Quicurre or rapid river  152  S.W.  1000 


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Names of remarkable places.  The
width of
rivers
and
creeks
in yds
Side on
which they
are Situated 
Distance
from one
place to
another 
Distances
up the
Missouri
from the
Mississippi 
Latitude North
of important
Places 
yards  Ms  Ms 
To the Poncar River & Village  30  S.W.  10  1010 
" " Dome and village of Burrowing
or barking Squirels 
S.W.  20  1030 
" " Island of Cedar  45  1075 
" White River (handsom Spot)  300  S.W.  55  1130 
" the three Rivers of the Seioux pass
opposit an Island 
35 &c.  N.E.  22  1152 
" an Island in the comencmt. of the
big bend 
N.E.  20  1172 
" upper part of the big bend, or
"Grand de Tourte" the Gorge
of which is 1 1/4 Ms
S.W.  30  1202 
" Tylors River  35  S.W.  1208 
" Louisells [Loisel's] Fort on Cedar
Island 
18  1226  44° 11′ 33″ 
" Teton River  70  S.W.  37  1263 
" the upper of five old Ricara Villages
reduced by the Sieoux &
abandoned 
S.W.  42  1305 
" Chyenne River (place for an Estmt.)  400  S.W.  1310  44° 19′ 36″ 
" an old ricara village on La-hoo-catts
Island 
47  1357 
" Otter Creek  22  S.W.  35  — 
" Sar-war-kar-na River  90  S.W.  40  1397  45° 35′ 5″ 
" We-tar-hoo River  120  S.W.  25  1422 
" Maropa River  25  S.W.  — 
To 1st. Ricaras Village on an Island  S.W. 
" 2d. Ricaras 3 Villages  S.W.  1430 
" the Stone Idol Creek  18  N.E.  18 
" " War-re-con-ne River  35  N.E.  40  1488 
" Cannon Ball River  140  S.W.  12  1500  46° 29′ 0″ 
" Shy-wish or Fish Crek  28  N.E. 
" Chesschetar River near 6 old Mandan
Vgs 
38  S.W.  40  1540 
" Hunting Creek  25  S.W  14 
" the Old Ricara & Mandan Villages  S.W.  40  1580 
" Fort Mandan (wintering post of
1804 
N.E.  20  1600  47° 21′ 47″ 


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[Here, in the journal written at Fort Mandan (Codex C),
Clark inserted the following table based upon Indian information.
Ed.]

The Missouri and it's Subsidiary Streams higher up; are taken altogether
from information collected dureing the Winter 1804, 5 of
Indians &c.

                         
near yds  about miles  miles 
To the Mouth of the little Missouri or E-mâh-tark,
Ah-Zhah
 
100  S.W.  100  1730 
To Ok-hah, Âh-zhah, or the White Earth River  100  N.W.  117  1847 
To the Mouth of Mee, Ah-zhah or Yellow Stone
River
 
400  S.W.  1850 
To the mouth of Ah-mâh-tâh, ru-shush-sher, or
the River which Scolds at all others
 
abt. 100  North  150  2000 
To the Mouth of the Mah-tush; ah-zhah or the
Muscle Shell River
 
140  South  120  2120 
" the Great Falls  —  —  120  2240 
" Mah-pat-puh, Ah-zhah or Medison River  150  N.W.  15  2255 
To the 1st. Chain of Rockey mountains about  —  —  60  2315 
To the 2nd. Chain of Rockey mountains about  —  —  75  2390 
To the three forks of the Missouri above the 3rd.
Chain of mountains 
—  —  75  2465 
To the foot of the next mountain nearly West  —  N.W.  50  2515 
To a large River on the West of the mountain  —  —  15  2530 

The Yellow Stone River and it's Subsidiary Streams &c.

                 
yards  miles  miles 
To the mouth of Oke-tar-pas-ah-ha  abt. 30  S.E.  75  1705 
" War-rah-sash or Powder R  " 40  S.E.  75  1780 
" Le-ze-ka or Tongu [e] River  " 100  S.E.  50  1830 
" Mar-shas-kap River  " 40  S.E.  100  1930 
" Little Wolf mountain Creek  " 20  N.W.  55  1985 
" Ark tar-ha River  " 30  S.E.  70  2055 
" Ar-sar-ta or Bighorn R  " 150  S.E.  75  2130 
" To the Rockey or Shineing Mountains  —  N.W.  200  2330 


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From Fort Mandan]  Width
in
Yards. 
Side on
which
they are
situated 
Distance
from one
place to
another 
Distances
up the
Missouri
from the
Mississippi 
Latitudes & remarks. &c. 
To Mandan Villages 1 on each
Side 
1604 
" Knife river on which the
two Minetarre and the Mahar
has villages are Situated
near the mouth 
80  S.W.  1606 
" the Island  11  1617  small 
" Menatarras Wintering Village
Std
—  13 1/2  —  abandoned 
" " Miry River on
Stard side 
10  N.E.  15  1633  bold stream 
" an Island in the little bason  28  small 
" Little Missouri River  134  S.W.  29  1690  47°. 31′. 26″.2. N. 
" the Wild onion Creek  16  N.E.  12  1702  a little water 
" " Goose egg Lake  300  N.E.  1711  Small 
" " Shabonos Creek  20  S.W.  16  1727  47°. 47163/10 N
" " Goat pen Creek  20  N.E.  16  1743  at this place Mouse
river approaches
near the Missouri 
" " Halls Strand Lake & Creek  N.E.  47  1790  extream N. point 
" " White earth River  60  N.E.  50  1840  Still & deep 
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone River  858  S.W.  40  1880  48°. -00′-00″ N
to Marthys River  50  N.E.  60  1940  High Coloured 
" Porcupine River  112  N.E.  50  1990  Some timber on it 
To 2000 Mile Creek  30  S.W.  1993  no water at pest
To Indian Fort Creek dry  —  S.W.  10  2003  a fort of logs 
" the little Dry Creek  25  S.W.  27  2030  no water in it 
" Lack water Creek  25  N.E.  1 1/2  2031 1/2  d°. d°. d°. d°. 
" the Big Dry Creek  100  S.W.  7 1/2  2039  d°. d°. d°. d°. 
" " Little Dry River  200  S.W.  2045  d°. d°. d°. d°. 
" " Gulf in a Stard. Bend  32  2077  47° 3611″ 
to Milk River  150  N.E.  13  2090  Color of tea 
" Big Dry River  400  S.W.  25  2115  no water runing 
" Werners Run  10  N.E.  2124  47°. 25′–331/10
" Pine Creek  20  N.E.  36  2160  Saw 1st pine 
" Gibsons River  35  N.E.  17  2177  a little running watr
" Brown Bear defeated Creek  40  S.W.  12  2189  d° d° d° 
" Brattens River  100  N.E.  24  2213  47°. 1351N. 
" Burnt Lodge Creek  50  S.W.  2219  no water running 
" Wisers Creek  40  N.E.  14  2233  a little running W. 
" Blowingfly Creek  25  S.W.  32  2265  d° d° d° 
" Muscle Shell River  110  S.W.  2270  47° 024.6″ 
" Grouse Creek  20  N.E.  30  2300  no running water 
" Teapot Creek  15  N.E.  2308  d° d°. d°. 
" North Mountain Creek  30  N.E.  28  2336  running water 
" South Mountain Creek  30  S.W.  18  2354  d°. d°. 
" Ibex Island  15  2369  Killed the 1st big
horn 
" Goodriches Island  2378 


62

Page 62

                             
From Fort Mandan]  Width
in
Yards. 
Side on
which
they are
situated 
Distance
from one
place to
another 
Distances
up the
Missouri
from the
Mississippi 
Latitudes & remarks, &c. 
To Windsers Creek  30  N.E.  2385  some water runs 
" Softshell turtle Creek  25  N.E.  2391  d° d° d° 
" Elk rapid (Swift water)  2400  {Doe Elk & fawn
swam over 
" Thompsons Creek  28  N.E.  27 1/2  2427 1/2  {vally above Mts.
bold stream 
" Bull Creek  25  S.W.  8 1/2  2436  {a Buffalow crossed
a canoe & then
charged through
camp 
" Judieths River Big horn  100  S.W.  2439  killed 3 big horns 
" Vally Creek  20  N.E  2440  thro a vally N. 
" Ash rapid (swift water)  2443  Some Ash trees. 
" Slaughter River  40  S.W.  11  2454  {a great n° of buffalow
drove down a
clift and dashed to
pieces on Std. I
speared a wolf. 
" the Stone Wall Creek above
those emence nateral walls 
30  N.E.  26  2480  curious appearance
of walls below 
" Maria's River  186  N.E.  41  2521  47° 25′ 17.2 N. 
" Snow River  50  S.W.  19  2540  Mts. Covd. with
Snow head of this
river 
" Shields River  35  S.W.  28  2568  bold Stream 
" the foot of the enterance of
portage River 5 Miles below
the Great falls 
45  S.W.  2575  47° 8′ 4″ 9/10 N. 

[From this point the final draft follows the land route—
Lewis and Clark's pass to the Kooskooskee. The table here
inserted follows the actual route going out and is taken from
both Codex I and Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4.—Ed.]

             
Names of remarkable places.  [Distance]
from one
place to
another 
Distance
to the
mouth of
Missouri 
Latitudes & remarks, &c
to Portage River Lard. Side 55  2576  rapid & Sholey 
to the first great fall of 87 feet pitch  2582  Continual Spray 
to the Second fall of 19 feet pitch  3 1/2  —  or 1718 poles 
to the Grand Cascade of 47 feet 8 In. pitch  1/2  —  = 102 poles 
to the upper fall of 26.5 pitch total fall
above portg. about 362 feet
 
2 3/4  2590 1/2  = 881 poles 
to Medicine River Std. 137  3 3/4  2594 1/4  1196 poles 


63

Page 63

                                                           
Names of remarkable places.  [Distance]
from one
place to
another
 
Distance
to the
mouth of
Missouri
 
Latitudes & remarks, &c. 
to the head of the Portage on the Ld. at the
White Bear Islands, the land portage
18 miles thro. a plain
 
2597 1/4  {972 poles
47°. 3′ 33″ N. 
to Smith's River Lard. 80  30 3/4  2628  bold current & Vally. 
to the Rockey Mountains at Pine Island}
rapid
 
40 1/4  2668 1/4  46°. 42′ 14″ 7/10 
to Dearbourne's River Std. 80  8 3/4  2676  bold current & in Mtn
to Gun brook Ld. 10  2678  found a fusee 
to Ordways Creek Std 25  10  2688  bold Current V[al]ly 
to the Great gate of the rocky Mounts.
river confined in a narrow Chanel between
clifts 10 or 1200 feet high
 
24  2712  {W. Clark crossed Sd.
Mt
to Potts' s Vally Creek Std. bold  2718  Wide Vally N. 
to Pryors Vally River Std. 28  20  2738  Latd. 46°. 10′ 32″ 9/10 N
bold Current and wide
extensive Vally saw
a smoke NW 
to White Earth Creek Std. 15  30  2768  bold 
to WhiteHouse Creek Lard. bold  11  2779  Some timber on it 
to Yorks 8 Islands  23  2802  {W. C. on land York
tired 
to Gass's Vally Creek Std. 25  14  2816  bold & 3 forks 
to the Little Gate of the Mountain  2821  we saw a horse 
to Howards Creek Lard. bold  2827  {Mistook to opening
of the creek for the[17]  
{W. C. return to the
party very sick. 
to the Three Forks of Missouri at Jefferson,
Maddison & Gallitins rivers. Gallitins
on Ld. and 70 Yds. wide Maddeson
90 yds. wide & Jeffersons 90 yds.
wide and is the Std. fork
 
21  2848  45°. 22′ 34″. N 
Up Jeffersons River 
to Philosophy River on Ld. side 30  15  2863  bold rapid full of beaver 
to the Narrows of the 3d. Mountn 17  2880  M. L. go a head 
to Frasures Creek & rapid Ld. bold  2888  bad rapid 
to R. Field's Vally Creek Sd. 28  2892  R. F. killed 4 deer 
to Wisdom River Std. 40  55  2947  45°. 2′ 21″ 6/10 N 
to Philanthrophy River Ld. 30  12  2959  river crooked 
to Beaver head Clift Stad 34  2993  d° d° 
to Mc.Neals Creek Ld. 17  37  3030  bold stream 
to the 4th. Gap of the Mountain  28  3058  {Saw Several rattle
snakes 
to Willards Creek Std. bold  3064  {Willard discovered
this the day before
we got to it. 
to a rapid at the Narrows of 5th. Mtn 21  3085  {a bad rapid for half
a mile 

64

Page 64
                                                   
Names of remarkable places.  [Distance]
from one
place to
another
 
Distance
to the
mouth of
Missouri
 
Latitudes & remarks, &c. 
to the East Fork of Jeffersons river at which}
place left the canoes and commen[c]ed
a portage
 
11  3096  44°. 35' 28″ 1/10 
to the 3 forks in Snake Indian cove  15  3111  {W. C. Camp with Inds
to the head Spring of Jeffersons river in}
a Dividing ridge of the rock[y] M. 
13  3124  meet an Ind. on a Mule 
to East fork of Lewis's river the S.E.}
branch of the Columbia at the So so nee
or Snake indian incampment in Lodges
made of bushes at which place the river
is 36 yds 
10  3134  44°. 23227/10 
to the main fork of Lewis'es River Ld. 90  18  3152  from the South East 
to Salmon Creek Std. Side bold  3161  Shields killed a salmon 
to Tower run Std. small  14  3175  leave Lewis's river 
Up tower run to the forks of the road  3179  {road leaves the river
to the right 
Across the hills. To fish Creek six miles}
north of it's mouth 25 
20  3199  hilly road 
Up Fish creek to the forks of the road &}
Creek 
7 1/2  3206 1/2  {leave the road to the
right 
to the Top of a Snow Mountain at the}
head of the west fork of fish creek 
21 1/2  3228  pilot lost his way 
to Clark's River at a Village of 33 tents}
of Flathead 
12  3240  River from right 
Down Clark's River 
to flour Camp Creek Ld. bold  3247  over a mountn
to Horse Vally Creek from the right  26  3273  bold stream 
to Scattered Creek from the right passing}
through Hors[e] Vally 
22  3295  46°. 41′–38″.9 
to Travellers rest Creek Ld. 30  21  3316  46°. 48' 28″. 8/10 
passing up Travellers rest Creek to the}
forks of the road and Creek Sd
11  3327  {Here we fall into the
Portage from the
Falls of the Missouri
across the Mountains
road to our right 
to the Hot Springs on the right  14  3341  nearly boiling 
to the Glades on the Divinding Mt 10  3351 
to the forks of Glade Creek  3357  {a fork from the North
we crossed to S.E.
Side 
to Koos-koos-ke river at the enterance of}
Glade Creek 
3366  Killed and eate a Coalt 
to the foot of the Great Mountains  3372  {open Hilly pine country 
Across the Great Rocky Mountains 
to the top of a Mountain Covered with}
Snow the 15th. of Sepr. a road comes in
from the right on the mountain 
3380  Snow high ruged 

65

Page 65
                 
Names of remarkable places.  [Distance]
from one
place to
another
 
Distance
to the
mouth of
Missouri
 
Latitudes & remarks, &c. 
to a branch running to the right on M  13  3393  {Snowed all day
Eate a coalt 
to a branch running to the left  10  3403  Eat a Coalt 
to Hungary Creek from the right  32  Hills covered with snow 
to the forks of Collins's Creek from the right  26  Killed a Horse 
to the foot of the Rocky Mountains on}
the West side 
3469  open pine country 
to the Cho-pun-nish Village  seatd. in a small prarie 
to Koos-koos-ke River at the Mouth of}
Village Creek from the right 
17  about 120 yds. wide 
to Rock dam Creek Stard. 20 yds  [3495]  damed by rocks 

[At this point the navigation by water was again resumed,
and our table hereafter follows the final draft. The two tables
of distances from the Mississippi differ according to the varying
length of the routes—direct and actual.—Ed.]

                             
Remarkable places decending the
Columbia &c. &c.
 
width
of the
rivers
and
Creeks
 
the
Side on
which
they
are
Situated
 
Distance

from
one
place
to another
 
Distance
Decending
the
Columbia
 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[direct
route]
 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[actual
route]
 
Latitude Remarks &c. 
yds  MS MS Miles 
To the enterance of Rock}
dam Creek
 
20  N.  2923  3495 
" " Chopunnish River  120  N.  13  2928  3500  46° 34′ 56.2″ 
" Canister run  —  —  19  —  —  —  Passed 16 rapids 
" " Colters Creek  35  N.  18  50  2978  3537  passed 14 rapids 
" Lewis' s River at the}
enterance of the
Kooskooske river 
200  S.  23  73  2988  3560  46° 29' 21.7″ 
" the Swet house Village}
& run 
S.  80  3567  Passed 1 rapid 
" " Pilots Village  N.  11  91  3006  3578  Passed 4 rapids 
" a Village of Mat Lodges  N.  13  —  —  3591  " 3 " 
" " Ki-moo-e-nimm Creek  20  S.  35  139  3626  " 8 " 
" Drewyers river below}
the Narrows of
Lewis's R 2 1/2 miles
& 30 yds wide 
30  N.  144  3059  3631  " 1 " 
" the Cave rapid (Canoe}
Sunk) 
28  172  3659  passed 5 rapids 
" the Bason rapid. (bad)  34  206  3121  3693  " 8 " 
" " Discharge Rapid}
(bad) 
14  220  3135  3707  " 4 " 

66

Page 66
                                 
Remarkable places decending the
Columbia &c. &c.
 
Width
of the
rivers
and
Creeks
 
the
Side on
which
they
are Situated
 
Distance

from
one
place
to
another
 
Distance
Decending
the
Columbia
 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[direct
route]
 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[actual
route]
 
Latitude Remarks &c. 
yds  MS MS Miles 
To Columbia at the mouth}
of Lewis' s river from
the East 
S.E.  227  3142  3714  46° 15′ 13.9″ 
" Wallarwallars River}
passd. 11 large mat
Lodges of that nation 
40  S.E  16  243  3158  3730  {passed 2 rapids
one bad. hills
about 200 feet. 
" Muscleshell Rapid
(bad) passed 33 mat
lodges of the Wallar-wallars 
25  268  3183  3755  {passed 2 rapids
Low Cty C[om].
m[ences on]Ld
" Pillacon Rapid.}
passed 48 lodges of the
Pishquitpahs nation 
N.  22  290  3205  3777  {low country on
both sides of R 
" 21 lodges of the wah-}
howpum nation residing
on three Islands
at the commencement
of the high country 
N.  18  308  3223  3795  {passed 2 rapids
(horse secrfised
to the dead) 
" 8 Lodges of the wah-}
howpums at short
rapid 
N.  27  335  3250  3820  passed 2 rapids 
" the Short Rapid  —  —  —  —  3826  " 1 " 
" Rocky Rapid. 9}
lodges of the Same
nation 
N.  348  3263  3833  " 1 " 
" River La Page, bad rapid  40  S.  357  3272  3842  " 2 " 
" 27 lodges of the Enes-}
her nation at fish
tack rapid 
N.  10.  367  3282  3852  {Campd. passed
1 rapid 
" Towannahiooks River  180  S.  375  3290  3860  {we all viewed
it above its
mouth 
" The Great Falls or}
the Columbia river
of 37 ft. 8 Ins. near
which there are 40
Mat lodges of the
Enesher Nation 
N.  379  3294  3864  45° 42′ 57.3″ 
The Short narrows 45}
yds. wide 
381  3296  passed 1 rapid 
" Skillute Village of 21}
large wood houses at
the long narrows from
50 to 100 yds. wide 
N.  385  3300  3870  40° 1′ ″[18]  
" Chilluckitequaw Vil-}
lage of 8 large wood
nouses 
N.  14  399  3314  3884  bought Dogs 

67

Page 67
                       
Remarkable places decending the
Columbia &c. &c.
 
width
of the
rivers
and
Creeks
 
the
Side on
which
they
are situated
 
Distance

from
one
place
to another
 
Distance
Decending
the
columbia
 
Distance
from the
mississippi

[direct
route]
 
Distance
from the
mississippi

[actual
route]
 
Latitude Remarks &c. 
yds  MS MS Miles 
To Cataract river a few}
miles below a Village
of 7 houses and immediately
above one
of 11 Houses of the
Chilluckittequaw
nation
 
60  N.  10  409  3324  3894  {10 nations live
up this river.
no fish 
"Sepulchre Rock, op-}
posite to a Village of
Hs. of Chilluckitteqs 
N.  413  3328 
"River Labeich oppo-}
site to 26 houses of
the Smackshop
Nation, Houses scattered
on the N. Side
each side 
46  S.  422  3337  3907  {the first houses
we have seen
on the south
side 
"Little Lake Canoe}
Creek 3 houses of the
Smackshop nation 
28  N.  10  432  3347  3917  {saw Several Canoes
encamped 
"Cruzatts River  60  N.  12  444  3359  3929  {stumps out
from shore
some dists
"The Grand Rapid just}
below the village of
the Yehuh tribe of
the Shahala Nation of
14 wood houses 
[*]N  450  3365  3935  45° 44′ 3.8″ 
"Clahclellah Village of}
the Shahala nation,
near the foot of the
rapids. 7 Houses 
N.  456  3371 
"Wahclellar Village of}
the Shahala Nation
23 houses just below
the entrance of the
beacon rock Creek[19]  
N.  462  3377  {This Beaten
rock rises from
a leavel bottom
near the R 
Tide Water. 
"Phoca Rock in the}
river 60 feet above
water 100 foot high 
11  473  3388  3958  {This rock is
near the middle
of the river
Saw Seal's 

68

Page 68
                                           
Remarkable places decending the
Columbia &c. &c.
 
width
of the
rivers
and
Creeks 
the
side on
which
they
are Situated 
Distance

from
on
place
to another 
Distance
Decending
the
Columbia 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[direct
route] 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[actual
route] 
Latitude Remarks &c. 
yds  Ms Ms Miles 
To the Commencement of}
the Columbian Vally,
wide & beautiful
 
—  —  —  —  3964  rich & extensive 
" Quicksand River  120  S.  482  3397  3967  shallow &
Spreads over a
wide bar 
" Seal River opsd. upper
pt. of white brant Isld
80  N.  485  3970  {emence No. of
brant 
" Nechacokee village}
opposite to the dimond
Island 
S.  489  3974  {2 large Ponds
on this Island. 
" White goose Isld. opsd.}
Lowr. pt
—  —  —  —  3980  {I sho[t] white
gees 
" Shahala Village of 25
temperary houses 
S.  501  3416  3986  grass houses &c
" the head of image
Canoe Isld
—  —  —  —  3990  {met 2 canoes
on which was
images 
" Multnomah River  500  S.  10  515  3430  4000  Ind. stold. Tomhk 
" Multnomah Village}
[*]at narrow part of
the Columbia 
S.  521  —  4006  {Campd. ops. a
No. of noisey
fowls 
" Quathlahpohtle Vil-}
lage at the lower Point
of an Island near the
Stard. Shore 
N.  529  4014  {Inds. Vist. us in
7 canoes 
" Cahwahnakiooks River  200  N.  530  3445  4015 
" the lower Point of}
Wappato Island 
S.  —  —  4016  a Chant. $1/4 Mt.
wide 
" Cathlahaws Creek and}
Village 
18  N.  540  3455  4025  {I thought was
a 1d
" Lower extremity of
Elallah or deer Island 
S.  546  —  4031  {Indian name.
I Seen 16 snakes 
" the Narrows of}
the Mountain and
lower part of the
Columbian vally 
4038  {camped rained.
Killed a Pheasant. 
" Coweliske River}
about the entrance
and up this river the
Skillute nation reside 
150  N.  559  3474  4044  Ind. s. acct
" Fannys Island & bottom  S.  16  575  3490  4060  {bottom on the
Ld. is wide 
" the Sea Otter Island  12  587  3502  4072  toggy 
" " Upper Village of}
the Warkiacums Nation 
N.  593  3502  4078  {Petticoat women
at this village 
" the lower Village of
the Warkiacum Nation
of 7 houses Under
a high hill. 
4087  {landed a few
M[inutes]
bought a dog. 


69

Page 69

From the Waukiacum Upper Village decending the Columbia on the South Side

         
Remarkable places decending the Columbia
&c. &c.
 
the
Side on
which
they
are Situated
 
Distance

from
one
place
to another 
Distance

Decending
the
Columbia 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[direct
route] 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

[actual
route] 
Latitude Remarks &c. 
Ms Ms Miles 
To Point Samuel on Stard Side  4094  high land 
To the Cath.lah-mâh Town of}
9 houses South of the Seal
Islands
 
4102  on high land 
To Point William opposit the
Shallow Bay
 
10  4111  point in this form 
       
To Point Meriwether above}
Meriwethers Bay
 
S.  10  626  3541  4121  3 rivers mouth 
" Fort Clatsop on the West}
Side of and 3 miles up
the Netul river from Meriwether
bay and Seven miles
East from nearest part of
the Sea coast. at this fort
Capt. M Lewis and Capt.
Wm. Clark wintered in the
winter 1805–6
 
—  —  4128 
" Clat-Sop Village on the low}
point of Meriwethers Bay
and 7 miles N W of Fort
Clatsop
 
S.  10  634  3529  4138  large wood houses 
" Point Adams at the enter-}
ance of Columbia into the
Pacific ocean or Great South
Sea in Latitude 46° 15′
North and Longtd. 124° 57′
West from Greenwitch
 
S.  640  3555  4144  low land[20]  

70

Page 70
           
Remarkable Places decending the Columbia
&c. &c.
 
the
Side on
which
they
are situated
 
Distance

from
one
place
to another
 
Distance

Decending
the
Columbia
 
Distance

from
the
Mississippi

(direct
route) 
Distance
from the
Mississippi

(actual
route) 
Latitude Remarks &c. 
[The Northern Shore of the River Ms Ms Miles 
To the Shallow bay or nitch on}
the Stard. side 5m. Deep
 
16  41031  {this bay is about
5m. deep and
contains great
numbers of
fow[l]s. 
To Point Distress  16  —  —  4119  lay 6 days 
to Station Camp near an old Chin-}
nook Village of 36 houses
 
N.  —  —  4121  delayed 10 days 
to Cape Disapointment at the En-}
terance of the Columbia river
into the Great Pacific Ocean
in Latd. 46° 19[21] . 11″ 1/10 N.
and Longitude 124 57′. 0–W.
 
11  —  —  4132  46° 19′ 11.1″ 

On the Sea Coast to the N N W of Cape Disapointment

                   
To the Comencement of a Sandy}
Coast & low land
 
W. C. Saw the coast much futher 
Point Lewis High land N. of the}
Chinnook Villages is about
 
15 
to the Chiltz Nation. about  Indian information 
to the Cla-moi-to-micks Tribe along}
the N W Coast
 
{Indian account taken at different
times 
to Potoashi Tribe reside to the N}
West along the Coast
 
to the Quinielts reside from the}
Potoash N W along the same
coast about Cape Sh[o]alwater
noumerous
 
15 
to Qui eet to reside from the Quinielts}
N W along the coast
 
to Chil-late-ho-kle reside from Quieet-}
so N W along same coast about
 
19 
to Quinechart verry noumerous reside}
from the Chillatehokle N W along
the same coast and on the slashes
and creeks
 
60  Note. 50 mile of the above
from the information of Indians. 
Pailsh reside betwen the Potoash and}
Quinelt on the same coast. 


71

Page 71

On the sea coaste to the S. S. E.

                             
From point Adams  Distances  Latitude, Remarks &c. 
to Ne-er-ca-war-re-ca Creek &}
old Clatsop village
 
4152  3 houses remain 
to the enterance of Clât.sop river}
85 yards wide at 3 houses remains
of an old Vilg.
 
4161  3 old towns 
to the Salt works at the foot of}
a mountain near 4 houses
 
4163  2 old towns & Canoe vaults 
to the most projected part of the}
Mountain of Clark' s point of
view near 1000 feet above the
leavel of the Sea imediately
under it
 
4170  one rock out steep assent 
to an old Kil-â-mox Village  4173  abandoned
No. of rocks out 
to the Mouth of E-co-la or whale}
Creek 35 yds. wide, and 4 huts
of Kil-a-mox boiling whale
blubber 
4179  High rugid rocks out 
to 6 huts of Kil-â-mox boiling}
blubber 
4181  {this was the extent of Capt.
Clarks rout on this coast 
to the Great Kil-â-mox Town at}
the enterance of Ni-ê-lee Creek 
20  4201  Inds. ac. a sand bar out 
to Kil-har-hurst's Town of Kil-}
â-mox at the Enterance Kilamox
Bay 
about
5 miles 
a rock in entrs
to Kil-Aar-nar's town of Kil-a-}
mox
on the Bay at the mouth
of a Creek 
on the bay 
to Chish-ucks town of Kil-â-mox
at the Enterance of Kilamox
river, which is about 100 yds
2 houses up this R. 
heads near Columbia 
to Tow-er-quot-tons Creek &}
Town 
to Chuck-tins Town and Creek at}
the bottom of the Bay (which
I call Kilamox Bay)
 
Miles  70 

Note ☞30 miles of this course is from the information of Indians,
collected from different persons. They further inform me that
the Kil â mox have two Small villages on the Kil á mox river, it is very
rapid without any purpindicular falls, that nation pass across from the
head of this little river to the Columbian Vally, which is at no great
Distance from its head at Wappato Island, and pass down the Chock-âh'
lil'.com
or Columbia river with the Wappato they purchase


72

Page 72

                 
Notes, from the Mouth of Columbia
To the Wappato Island, center is  S.  20°. E  108  miles 
To quick Sand river is  S.  32°. E  121 
To the grand rapids is  S.  47°. E  128 
to the Great falls is  S.  65°. E.  172 
to the Mouth of Lewis's river  East  240 
From the Mouth of Lewis'es river
to the Mouth of Kooskooske is
 
N.  52°. E  96  Miles 
to the Mouth of Cho-pun-nich R}
at the Canoe Camp is
 
East  144  Miles 
to the longshute or Narrows above  N.  28°. E 55  Mile 

[Lewis and Clark's Pass][22]

Leaveing the Missouri below the Falls and passing by Land to the
Navagable Waters of the Columbia River

                     
Names of remarkable places  Width of
the rivers
& Creeks
 
Distance
from one
place to
another
 
Distance
from the
falls of
Missouri
 
Distance
from the
Mississippi
 
yd Ms Ms Miles 
To the enterance of Medicine River passed}
1st. pitch of 87 feet, 2d. of 19 feet, 3d. of
47 feet 8 inches, and 4th. of 26 feet 5
inches added to the rapids makes a fall
of 362 feet
 
137  18  18  2593 
To fort Mountain passing through the plains}
between Medicine river and the Missouri
near the Missouri up the N. Side of the
Missouri to the 1st. bend above the entrance
of Smiths river
 
15  33  2608 
To the Rocky Mountains at a Gap on the}
ridge which divites the waters of the
Missouri from those of the Columbia
passing the N. pt. of a Mtn. and then
crossing Dearborns river
 
35  68  2643 
To a fork of Cohohlarishkit river from the}
N. passed 4 Creeks from N
 
45  40  108  2683 
To Seamons Creek from the N  20  115 
To Werners Creek N  35  10  125  2700 
" the East fork of Clarks river at the en-}
terance of Cohohlarishkit R
 
120  30  155  2730 
" Clarks River at the forks  150  12  167  2742 
" Travellers rest Creek on the west Side}
of Clarks river above the forks
 
25  172  2747 

73

Page 73
                             
Names of remarkable places  Width of
the rivers
& Creeks
 
Distance
from one
place to
another
 
Distance
from the
falls of
Missouri
 
Distance
from the
Mississippi
 
yd Ms Ms Miles 
To the Forks of Travellers rest Creek at a}
right hand road
 
10  18  190 
" the Hot Springs, on the N. side of the}
Creek
 
13  203  2778 
" "Quawmash glades passing the head}
of the creek to a branch of Kooskooske
River
 
210 
To the North branch of Kooskooske river,}
a left hand road leads off at 5 Ms.
 
217 
To the junction of the roads on the top of}
a Snowey Mountain crossed a fork of
Flathead R. at 2 Ms the left hand road
passing by a fishery
 
10  227  2802 
From the forks of the road on the Top of the
Snow Mountains (from the left)
 
To Hungary Creek from the right passing}
on a Dividing Mounteing between the
Flathead and Chopunish passing on deep
Snow except on two places which are
open with a South exposure at 8 & 36
Miles
 
54  281  2856 
[23] To a Glade up Hungary Creek  287 
To a Glade on a Small branch of d°  295 
To a Glade on Fish Creek  10  304 
" Collins's Creek  25  13  317 
" Quawmash flatts  11  328  2903 
" Kooskooske or Flathead River in a pine}
Country
 
120  12  340  2915. 

Note in passing from the falls of Missouri across the Rocky Mountains
to the forks of Kooskooske, the nearest navagable waters of the
Columbia you have 200 miles of Good road to Hot Springs on Clarks
river; 140 miles of high Steep ruged mountain 60 miles of which is
covered from 2 to 8 feet deep with Snow the last of June, 1806 Latd. of
the falls of Missouri 47°. 8′ 4″ North. Clarks river forks Latd. 46°. 48′ 0″
North. Kooskooskia forks Latd. 46° 34′ 0′ North.

[24] The rout by which we went out by the way of the Missouri to it's


74

Page 74
head 3096 miles thence by land, by way of Lewis'es River over to
Clarks river and down that to the enterance of travellers rest Creek
where all the roads from different routs come together thence across
the ruged part of the rocky Mountains to the Navagable branches of
the Columbia 398 Miles. thence down that river 640 miles to the
Pacific Ocean makeing a Total distance of 4134 miles. On our return
in 1806 from Travellers rest Creek directly to the falls of the Missouri
River Shortens the distance about 579 miles, and a much better rout,
reduceing the distance from Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean to 3555
miles. 25 75 miles of this distance is up the Missouri to the Falls
of that river from thence passing through the plains and across the
Rocky Mountains to the navagable part of Kooskooske river a branch
of the Columbia 340 miles, 200 miles of which is a good road, 140
miles over a tremendious Mountain Steep and broken, 60 miles of which
is covered Several feet deep with Snow on which we passed the last of
June; from the navagable part of the Kooskooske we decended that
rapid river 73 miles to its enterance into Lewis's river and down that
river 154 miles to the Columbia and down that river 413 Miles to [its]
enterance into the Pacific Ocian, about 180 miles of this distance is
tide water. passed several bad rapids and narrows and one considerable
fall 268 miles above the enterance of this river of 37 feet 8 inches the
Total distance decending the Columbian waters 640 miles makeing a
total of 3555 miles on the most direct rout from the Mississippi at the
mouth of the Missouri to the pacific Ocean.

The fur trade may be carried on from the heads of the Missouri to
the mouth of Columbia much cheaper than by any rout by which it can
be conveyed to the East indias. form an establishment on the River
Rochejhone for the reception of the furs of that river & South and one
at Marias river below the great falls of Missouri. the Shoshones within
the rocky mountains the Tushepaws on Clarks river and maney nations
west of the Rocky mountains would visit those establishments from
whome horses might be got on the most reasonable terms for the purpose
of packing the furs across those mountains which may be passed
from the 20th. of June untill the last of September.

You may leave those establishments on the Missouri 15 or 20 of
June and arive on the Kooskooske river between the 1st. & 5th. of July.
from that time you have untill the middle of September to decend the
River and return to the mountains in time to pass them before the Snow
becomes too Deep to cross them.


75

Page 75

[The Yellowstone River.]

A Sumary Statement of the Rivers, Creeks, and the most remarkable
places assending the River Rochejhone, their distances from each other
and from the Missouri as estimated by me in 1806 also the Total distances
from the Mississippi.

                                                                           
Names of Places &c.  the Side
on which
they are
Situated 
Width of
the rivers
and
Creeks
in yards 
Distances
from one
place to
another
in miles 
Distances
from the
Missouri
assending 
Computed
Distances
from the
Mississippi
assending 
Side  yds.  Ms Ms Total Ms
from Missouri up the River Rochejhone  1888 
To the enterance of Jos. Fields River  S. E.  35  1896 
" " yallow rock (river narrow)  S E  14 
" " Buffalow Crossings a low plain
east side 
33  47 
" " Ibex River  S. E.  30  31  78  1966 
" " Samuels Creek  N. W.  30  12  90 
" " Buffalow Creek  N W  30  18  108 
" " Pine Brook  S. E.  20  29  137 
" " Cat fish Creek  S. E.  20  10  147 
" " Gibson River  S. E.  60  155  2043 
" " Oak-tar-pon-er stone Coal River  S E  40  18  173  2061 
" " Shabonos River  N. W.  100  188  2068 
" " Wolf rapid (not bad)  12  192  2080 
" " Wah-har-sop, redstone River  S. E.  100  195  2083 
" " Yorks dry river  N. W.  88  202  2090 
" " Yellow Bear rapids (not bad)  203  2091 
" " Buffalow Shoals (not bad)  20  223  2111 
" " Dry River  N. W.  100  232 
" " Lezeka or Tongue River  S. E.  150  11  243  2131 
" " Turtle Creek  S. E.  40  20  263 
" " Mar-Shas-kap River  S. E.  25  22  185  2173 
" " Wood Brook  S. E.  30  16  301 
" " upper Stone Coal Bluffs  S. E.  307  2195 
" " Little Horn River  S. E.  100  11  318  2206 
" " Table River  N. W.  70  320 
" " Little Wolf River  N. W.  80  30  350 
" " Chimney Bluffs  N. W.  28  368 
" " White Creek  N. W.  30  17  385 
" " Laabeechs River  S. E.  60  392  2281 
" " Windsers River  N. W.  50  26  418  2307 
" " Elk river  N. W.  40  422 
" " Big horn River  S. E.  220  15  437  2326 
" " Island Brook  N. W.  16  453 
" " White Clifts(below the pine hills)  N. W.  27  480 
" " Halls River  N. W.  40  489  2378 
" " Shannons river from which place
party decended in Buffalow Skin
Canoes 
S. E.  22  10  499  2388 


76

Page 76

                                                   
Names of Places &c.  the Side
on which
they are
Situated 
Width of
the rivers
and
Creeks
in yards 
Distances
from one
place to
another
in miles 
Distances
from the
Missouri
assending 
Computed
Distances
from the
Mississippi
assending 
Side  yds.  Ms Ms Total Ms
To the Pompeys Tower 200 feet high
& 400 yds. around in an open
bottom
 
S. E.  508  2397 
" " Tumbling Bluff  N. W.  12  520 
" " Big Dry brook  N. W.  60  16  536 
" " Pryors Creek in the big bend  S. E.  25  10  546  2435 
" " Rock Creek  N. W.  18  551 
" " Pryors River  S. E.  35  557  2446 
" " Yellow Clifts  S. E.  566 
" " Horse Creek  S. E.  20  10  576 
" Clarks fork (the lodge where all
dance) 
S. E.  150  23  599  2487 
" " Black bluffs opposit to the place
☞Capt. C. built 2 Canoes
to ded
S. E.  27  626  2514 
" " Bluffs above the extencive open
bottoms on the N W Side 
N. W.  26  652 
" " Rose Bud river  S. E.  40  658  2546 
" " Dry Creek  N. W.  20  19  677 
" " Muddy Creek  N. W.  15  16  693 
" " Weasel Creek  S. E.  10  16  709 
" " Brattens River  S. E.  25  10  719  2607 
" " Otter River  N. W.  30  12  731  2638 
" " Beaver river  S. E.  30  1/4  731 1/4 
" " Thy Snaged Creek  S. E.  20  5 3/4  737 
" " Rivers a Cross  both  28  10  747  2635 
" " a small rapid not bad  24  771 
" " Stinking Cabin Creek  S. E.  20  14  735 
" " Shields River boald  N. W.  35  16  805 
" " the foot of the Rocky Mountains
covered with Snow 1 5 of July in
Latd. 45°. 22′ 34″ North 
16  817  2905 

Note the distance by land from Clarks fork to the Mountain is only
120 miles. all the Streams falling in above Clarks fork are boald.

Portage from the River Rochejhone to the Head of the Missouri at the
three forks.

   
Miles  Miles
across
from the
Rochejhone 
From the Rochejhone 2 miles below the Rocky Mountain on a
Course nearly S 75° W. to the top of the dividing ridge which
divides the wate[r]s of the rochejhone from those of the Missouri,
passing up on the N. Side of portage run to the forks of
the road the Country open, assent gentle 


77

Page 77

                 
Miles  Miles
across
from the
Rochejhone 
To the Middle branch of the East fork of Galletins River takeing}
the left hand road, this Stream running to the left
 
1/2  9 1/2 
To a Gap in the Mountain passing up a Small branch on it's N.}
Side with a gradual ascent Country open and the course nearly
west
 
2 1/2  12 
To the middle branch of the east fork of Galletins River passing}
down on the N. Side of a branch crouded with beaver dams
 
15 
To the three forks of the East fork of Galletins river passing on
the S. Side
 
18 
To the main fork of Galletins river passing through a leavel plain}
N 78°. W
 
12  30 
To the arm of the river which forms beaver Island, passing}
through the island a leavel open plain on a course N. 70°. W.
an emencity of Beaver dams &c. on each side
 
36 
To Galletins River below the forks passing through an open}
leavel plain on a course N. 78° W. on the S. Side of the R.
 
42 
To the Missouri imediately below the three forks, Jeffersons}
Madisons and Galletins Rivers on a Course N. 35°. W. through
an open plain passing over 2 Small hills after crossing the river
on its N. Side
 
48 

Rout from the head of Jefferson River at the place we left the Canoes
to the mouth of Travellers rest on Clarks river on my rout in July 1806.

                       
From the forks where our Canoes were left in 1805 up the west}
branch on an old Shoshone road about nine miles
 
To a Gap in the mountain which divides Willards Creek waters}
from those of wisdom river on a course N. 30°. West
 
15 
To the boiling Hot Spring in a vally near the 3 forks of Wisdom}
river, crossed 2 forks of Wisdom river from the right hand
 
To Glade Creek passing Wisdom river and 6 large creeks from}
a Snow toped Mountain to the west, passing a Spur of the
mountain after crossing the last creek on a course N. 56° W
 
22 
To the head of Glade Creek keeping on an old roade which}
passes up on the N. Side
 
11 
To Oatlashoot vally leaveing Glade Creek an[d] heading to our}
right and passing over a dividing mountain which Seperates the
waters of the Missouri from those of Clarks river
 
To the Middle fork of Clarks river from the left hand in Oat-}
lashshoots Vally
 
79 
To flour Camp Creek from the S. E.  10 
To the West fork of Clarks river from the W.  10 
To Scattered Creek from the East  38 
To Travellers rest Creek from the west where the different roads}
meet before the mountain is assended
 
23  81 
160 


78

Page 78

Note this rout is Generally leavel and firm and every par[t] of it will
afford a very good waggon road by removeing a fiew logs and cutting a
little on the hill Side.

Note The Indians inform us that there is an excellent road from
the 3 forks of the Missouri through a low gap in the mountains to the
East fork of Clarks river which passes down that fork to its junction
and up on the west Side of the main fork to Travellers rest Creek
which they travel with their families in 6 days the distance must be
about 150 miles, that added to 48 which is the portage from the River
Rochejhone is 198 miles which is 26 miles further than the rout by the
way of the falls of the Missouri.

One other rout from the river Rochejhone which is also a good one
but something further is from the head of the east fork of Galletins
River on a direct course to the mouth of Wisdom River and up that
river and Glade Creek and across to Clarks river in the Oatlashshoot
vally and from thence down that river to the Travellers rest Creek, at
which point all the roads in this quarter of the [world] appear to center
at the foot of those tremendious mountains the best and most direct
rout is by way of the falls of the Missouri and Travellers rest. Several
roads pass from the Missouri above the falls to Travellers rest Creek.

[The following, taken from the fragment designated by Coues
as Codex T, is in Clark's handwriting; we insert it here, as related
to the preceding fragment from Codex N. It should be
noted that this leaf called Codex T has been inserted in its
manila cover by the wrong edge; it begins to read at top of
p. 2 as thus inserted, and continues without break to the end
of p. 1.—Ed.]

[Blank space in MS.] Miles to the foot of the mountain where the
party were obliged to delay from the 9th of May to the 24 of June
for the snows of the mountains to subside sufficient to cross, and then
passed over snow for 60 Ms Generally from 3 to 6 or 8 feet deep quit[e]
Consolidated or Sufficiently so to bear a horse at the Enterance of the
Travellers rest on Clarks river Capt. Lewis & Clark seperated. Lewis
passed imediately to the falls of the Missouri on an old indian parth of
good road left a party at that place to prepare geer & wheels and proceeded
with 3 men to Explore a large N. fork of the Missouri called
Maria River and met with a party of Indians & was compelled to kill
2 of them. Clark with [blank space in MS.] men passed up Clarks


79

Page 79
river and across the heads of several branches of the Missouri to the
place the canoes had been left on his outward bound journey at the
head of Jeffersons river, descended Jeffersons rivers to the 3 forks,
and sent on the canoes down the Missouri under the direction of a
Sergt. and proceded himself up Galitines River and passed over to the
river Rochejhon or Yellow rock river from the South in Latd. 45.22 N.
and made canoes of wood & Buffalow canoes & Decended that river
818 miles, to its junction with the Missouri 1880 miles from St. Louis.

 
[15]

Biddle renders this(ii, p. 422) as "Hubert's;" but in the text of this journal
(i, p. 16) be makes it " Beau, or Clear Water."—Ed.

[16]

This latitude is give Codex A, p. 180, as that "opsd. a Island mentioned in the
2d. & 3d. Course of the 1 July on L. S." This is so near the Little Nemahar
River that it is given as the latitude of that stream.–—Ed.

[17]

MS. illegible.—Ed

[18]

The latitude here given is imperfect.—Ed.

[19]

The Indian habitations in this region shifted periodically, as is evident from the
journal entry April 9, 1806. On the downward journey they differed from those of
the return, as given here. The entries, therefore, in Codex I (compiled at Fort
Clatsop), and depicted on the map of the Great Rapids, are as follows : "to a.
Village below the great rapids of 4 houses abandoned opsd. a. 2d. bad rapid, one mile
not inhabited; to 4 houses of the Sha-ha-lah Nation at the lower rapids of the
Columbia river at tide water, 6 miles, not inhabited; to a Village of 9 houses of the
Shahalah Nation on the Stard. Side near the beaten rock 800 feet hi[gh] 5 miles, a man
with a brass barrel gun." These three entries take the place of the two in the text,
for the Clahclellah and Wahclellar villages. The distances are seen to be the
same.—Ed.

[20]

Here ends the final draft of the Summary (except for Lewis and Clark's pass,
and the Yellowstone, given below). What follows is taken from the Summary in
Codex I, and in Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4. There is a slight discrepancy in
the figures of these two accounts; the former makes the distance 4134 miles, the
latter 4144.—Ed.

[21]

This distance is measured from the "lower village of the Waukiacums."—Ed.

[22]

In the final draft, the following table was inserted between the Great Falls of the
Missouri and "Remarkable places decending the Columbia." It gives the route by
which Lewis returned from the Kooskooskee to the Missouri, in reversed order.—Ed.

[23]

The Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4 gives the two following entries, instead of
those in the text taken from Codex N:
"To the foot of the Rocky Mountains on the West side at a leavel country, 45
miles, 326 from the Falls, 2901 total. To the forks of Kooskooskea River from
whence it is navigable, 14 miles, 340 from the Falls, 2915 total."—Ed.

[24]

This long note on the route and the fur trade was added to the final draft before
giving the Summary for the Yellowstone River.—Ed.