Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents |
I. | I. Geography |
A. |
B. |
C. |
II. |
III. |
IV. |
V. |
VI. |
VII. |
VIII. |
SCIENTIFIC DATA ACCOMPANYING
The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | ||
SCIENTIFIC DATA ACCOMPANYING
The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK
I. Geography
A. COURSES AND DISTANCES
THE courses and distances were usually inserted in the
journals at the close of each day's record; when so
given, they have been allowed to stand in the text.
In other places, they were grouped consecutively for a number
of days, or for some stretch of the route. In such cases, we
have transferred them from the text to this division of the
record, indicating the writer of each section and the codex
wherein found.—Ed.]
21 | miles to St. Charles | |
miles 83 |
3¼ | |
18 | ||
9 | ||
10 | ||
10 | ||
18 | ||
15½ | ||
104¾ | To the Gasconnade River S. S. | |
34 | 4 | |
17 | ||
13 | ||
138¾ | Great Osarge River S. S. | |
63½ | 5 | |
17½ | ||
12 | ||
14 | ||
14 | ||
201¼ | Mine River South Side | |
25 | 12 | |
13 | ||
226¼ | the two Rivers of Charlton N. S. | |
19 | 10 | |
9 | ||
245¼ | Old Missouri village N. S. | |
9 | 9 | |
254¼ | Grand River North Side | |
110 | 8 | |
12 | ||
10 | ||
17½ | ||
6¾ | ||
7½ | ||
10½ | ||
3½ | ||
11½ | ||
13 | ||
9¾ | ||
364¼ | To the Kanzas River South Sd. | |
67 | 7 | |
10 | ||
12 | ||
11½ | ||
11¼ | ||
15 | ||
431 | To upper or 2nd. old Village of the Kanzas. S. S. | |
49 | 10¾ | |
12 | ||
14 | ||
12¼ | ||
480 | To the Nordaway River N. S. | |
30 | 14 | |
10 | ||
6 | ||
510 | To the Grand Nemahar River S. S. | |
60 | 20½ | |
9½ | ||
9¾ | ||
20¼ | ||
570 | Baldpated Prarie North Side | |
60 | 18 | |
10 | ||
18 | ||
14 | ||
630 | Mile = 210 Leagues to the Great River Platt on the South Side. |
|
12 | 12 | |
642 | To Camp [White Catfish July 22–28, 1804.] |
[Field notes and survey of the Great Falls of the Missouri,
made by Clark, June 17–19, 1805.—Ed.[2]
]
Courses of the Missouri from the commencement of the portage below
Portage River to the most South-Eastwardly bend above the Medicine
River, noting the particular Cataracts cascades and the hight they fall
as measured; together with an estimate of the decline of the water in
rapids &c. &c. Sept. [June] 17 & 18th. 1805. (S. E. Side)
feet | |||||
S. | 9°. E | 286 | poles to the enterence of portage river 55} yds. wide at 80 poles a rapid of 4 feet, the computed decent of the water above is 4 feet together makes |
8 | |
S | 10°. W. | 280 | Po: from the enterance of portage River up the Lard Side of the Missouri, the computed distance the water [falls] in this distance is about 10 feet |
10 | |
S | 10°. E | 160 | Po. d° . . d° . . d° . . d° . . Decent of |
6 | |
South | 240 | Po. d° . . d° . . d° . . d° computed decent of |
18 | ||
S. | 81°. W. | 400 | Po. d° . . d° . . d° . . d° computed decent of passing a deep small rivene in this course. |
13 | |
S. | 15°. W. | 160. | Poles. the decent of the water within which distance is about five feet river inclosed in rocks |
5 | |
S | 75°. W. | 80. | Poles. to the enterance of a Steep rivene at which there is a fall of 3 feet which aded to the probable decent of the water in that distance 2 feet makes |
5 | |
N. | 82°. W. | 340. | Poles. to the Grand Cataract of 87 feet 3/4 of an inch. Computed decent of water in this distance 6 feet. The river at this Cataract 280 yards wide and just below 93 yards wide total |
93 | 3/4 |
S | 24°. W. | 90 | Poles. passing a fall of 2 feet purpinducular which added to the estimated decent of 13 feet within the first 200 yds. next above the Cataract makes a decent in this distance rather more than |
15 | |
S | 19°. W. | 80. | Poles. passing a rivene and cascade decent about |
3 | |
S | 11°. W. | 80 | Poles. passing a Cascade of 4 feet, which together with the probable decent of the water 2 feet is |
6 | |
S | 31°. W | 320 | Poles. opposit to a rapid of 3 feet 6 inch fall which added to the probable decent of the water within this distance of 5 feet 6 inches is |
9 | |
2616 | river inclosed in rocks of a Dark colour | 191 | 3/4 | ||
S | 52°. W. | 178 | Poles. through a handsom leavel plain, the river makeing a bend to the right decent of the water probably about three feet |
3 | |
S | 40°. W. | 970 | Poles. to a fall of 19 feet, below which there is a deep rivene at the enterance of which a fall of 5 feet which added to the probable decent in this distance of 10 feet makes |
34 | |
N. | 84°. W. | 102 | Poles to the 2nd. Great Cataract of 47 feet 8 inches the river at this Cataract is 473 yards wide and confined clifts of rocks |
47.8 | |
N. | 86°. W. | 135 | Poles. passing a fall of 6 feet 7 inches which added to the probable decent of the water above the pitch of 47 feet 8 inches makes a fall of |
14.7 | |
S | 49°. W. | 58 | Poles along the river water verry rapid a probable decline of 2 feet |
2 | |
S | 78°. W. | 156 | Poles. to a large fountain near the river probable decent of the water in this distance may be 3 feet |
3 | |
S | 25°. W. | 124 | Poles. on the river passing several small rapids and swift water the probable decent in this instance four feet |
4 | |
S | 35°. W. | 240 | Poles. passing a rock in the river an three trees on the Lard. Bank the fall of the water within this distance at least 8 feet |
8 | |
S | 58°. W. | 88 | Poles. up the river, the probable decent in this distance Eighteen inches |
1.6 | |
S | 40°. W. | 80 | Poles. to the upper pitch of 26 feet 5 inches river is here 580 yards wide. to this fall add the probable decent in this distance of 2 feet, also [o]ne pitch above of 5 feet, and the decent from the head of the rapids of 18 feet exclusive of the 5 feet pitch makeing in all 38 feet 5 inches fall |
51.5 | |
4747 | poles Total Falls☞ | 360.2 | 3/4 | ||
= 14 miles 3/4 and 27 poles | |||||
S. | 81°. W. | 320 | Poles to the head of the rapids passed a rivene | ||
S. | 55°. W. | 130 | Poles along the river. low banks | ||
S | 36°. W. | 278 | Poles to a tree on the edge of the water passd. a grove at 120 poles opposit to which the river is 1400 yards wide |
||
S | 6°. W. | 140 | Poles. to a small grove at a rapid on Ld Side. | ||
S | 64°. E. | 78 | Poles to the lower point of a timber in a deep bend. | ||
S | 14°. E. | 90 | Poles to a tree in the bend opposit to some low timber. | ||
S | 17°. W. | 160 | Poles to the river opposit to the enterance of Medicine River which is 137 yards wide, and the Missouri just above it is 300 yards wide. |
||
S | 1°. W. | 88 | Poles opposit to the lower point of a Small Island. | ||
S. | 45°. E | 170 | Poles. to some low timber near some old Lodges. | ||
S. | 13°. E. | 380 | Poles. to the river opposit the lower point of White Bear Island |
||
N. | 88°. E. | 70 | Poles. opposit to the lower point of a Second Island which is small. |
||
N. | 71°. E. | 120 | Poles. to a rockey hill side opposit to a third Island which is seperated from the Lard Shore by a very narrow chanel. |
||
S | 25°. E | 664 | poles to a bend of the river, passing the upper points of the 1st. & 3rd. Islands (at our camp) at 144 poles, and flattery run at 284 further river wide still low banks. |
||
S | 70°. E. | 160 | Poles to the top of a high hill near the moste extreme S Easterly bend of the river. from this point the Missouri bears S 85°. W. for about 10 miles. the gap of the Mts. where the Missouri enters bears S. 25°. W. [blank space in MS.] miles and the Pinical of the South Mts. bears N 84° E. |
☞from this Survey and estimate it results, that the Missouri experiences
a decent of 360 feet 2 inches and 3/4 in the distance of [14 3/4]
Miles and [27] Poles.
Portage No. 1
The course from the White Bear Islands above the portage N. 42°. E
4 miles leaveing the riveens of flattery run to the right. thence a course
to the South Extremity of a ridge North of the South Mountains for 8
miles & a half passing three riveens, the 2d. is willow run. 11 miles
from the Islands. Thence a course to the highest pinical of the North
Mountain, leaveing the riveens of Portage or red Creek to the right, &
the riveens of the river to the left to the mouth of Portage Creek 4
miles & a half, to the perogue which is on the river North Side &
nearly opposit the place we buried Sundery articles is 1 mile down the
river, The Swivel we hid under the rocks in a clift near the river a
little above our lower camp
Courses & Distance from White Bear Islands to the mouth of Portage Creek
N | 42°. E | 4 miles to a ellevated part of the Plain |
N | 66°. E | 3 miles passed the head of a Drean |
N | 45°. E | 4 miles to willow run |
N. | 18 E. | 4 miles passed the head of a Drean |
N. | 10° W. | 2 miles to the mouth of Portage Creek |
N. | 9. W. | 3/4 & 46 P. to the perogue on South side of the R. |
17 3/4 & 46 P. Portage through an open butifull plain |
Course of the Missouri through the 1st. Rocky Mountain and distance
estimated.[3]
miles | |||
S. | 20°. W. | 3/4 | to a high clift the mountain on L.S. passed the Pine Island at 1/4 a Small run above on L.S. & the Ld. & Std points. |
West | 1/4 | to a bend on the Stard Side High Clifts | |
South | 1/4 | to a bend on the Larboard Side d° | |
N. | 60°. E | 1/2 | to a bend on the Starboard Side d° passed an Island |
S. | 20°. W. | 1/2 | to a bend on the Larboard Side d° |
West | 1/2 | to a bend on the Starboard Side d° | |
S. | 30°. E | 1 | to a bend on the Lard Side passd an Island L. |
West | 1 1/4 | to a bend on the Starboard Side | |
S. | 5° W | 1/2 | to a point of rocks in a Lard. bend |
N. | 75°. W | 3/4 | to a bend on the Stard Side (Campd 17 July) Clifts |
S. | 15 W | 1 1/4 | to a Lard bend a high Clift of M: |
West | 1 1/4 | to the mouth of Dearbourn's River Std. Side 80 yds. wide & furnishes a considerable qty. of water & has a gravelery bottom |
|
S. | 45. W | 2 1/2 | to a Starboard bend |
S. | 8°. E | 6 1/2 | to the Center of a bend on the Lard Side passing Several Small bends passed a Small Creek on Lard. at 1 mile an Island on Std. |
S. | 80°. W. | 1/2 | to a tree in the center of the Stard. bend |
S. | 20°. W. | 1 1/2 | to the center of the Stard bend psd. an Isd. |
S. | 70°. E | 1/4 | to a bluff in the Stard bend |
S. | 75 W. | 1 1/2 | to the Center of the Std bend passing a Small Creek at 1/2 M on Std Side |
S. | 5°. W | 1/2 | to the enterence of a large Creek 30 yards wide in the Stard bend ordways creek |
S. | 30° E | 2 1/2 | to the center of a bend on the Lard Side the vallie now widens |
S. | 40°. W. | 3/4 | to the center of a Stard Bend |
S. | 85°. E | 2 | to the center of a Lard bend passing three short bends. (campd. 18th July) |
South | 1/4 | to a pine tree on the Stard. Side bend | |
S. | 85° E | 2 | to the center of a Lard bend |
S | 38°. W | 1 | to a pine in the Std. bend |
South | 1 1/2 | to the Center of the Stard. bend | |
N. | 10°. W. | 2 1/2 | to the Center of the Lard. bend |
S. | 30 E | 1 1/4 | to the Center of the Stard. Bend |
S. | 25°. E | 4 1/2 | to the Center of the Lard. Bend |
S. | 28°. W | 1 | to the Center of the Stard. bend passing two Islands near the commencement |
S. | 60°. E | 1 1/4 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend |
N. | 70° E | 1 1/2 | to the enterence of a Small Creek in a Lard bend passing an Island near Stard Side |
S. | 25° E | 1 1/2 | to a point of rocks in a bend on the Std. side those rock[s] put in to the river on both Sides, are purpendicular and about 1200 feet high, this place has So Singular appearance that I call it the gate, the water appears to have forced its way through this emence body of Solid rock, and thrown on either Side below Collums of rock mountains high |
S. | 55°. E | 1/4 | to the Center of a Lard Bend |
S | 10° W | 3 1/2 | to a bend on the Lard Side passing an Isld. at 1 1/4 in Center of the river (campd. 19th July.) |
S. | 40°. W | 1/2 | to a high rock in a Lard Bend here the high and perpundicular rocks Cease and the Vallies widen to more than their usial extent Since we have entered the mountains |
S. | 55°. W. | 1 | to the center of the Stard Bend at which place a large Creek falls in behind Some Islands on the Stard Side Potts Creek Indians set the Prarie on fire up this Crk |
50 1/4 |
Course of the Missouri from the Gate to the three forks.[4]
S. | 64°. E | 2 1/2 | to the center of the Lard Bend, passing two Islands, the hills again the banks of the river at 1 3/4 miles |
S. | 15°. E | 1/4 | to the center of a Starboard bend |
East | 1 1/2 | to the center of a Lard. Bend passed Some Islands on the Lard Side |
|
S. | 12°. E | 1 1/2 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend passing a Small Creek on Lard. Side at 3/4 of a M. |
S. | 50°. E | 1 1/4 | to the Center of a Lard. Bend |
S. | 20° E | 2 1/2 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend |
S. | 65 E | 2 | to a point in the Stard. Bend, passed three Islands at 1 m |
N. | 75°. E | 2 | to the Center of a Lard. Bend passing an Island. (Camped 20th July) |
S. | 5°. W. | 1/2 | to a Lard. Point opsd. an Island |
S. | 30°. E | 1 | to the center of a Lard Bend the hills now become low and the Countrey opens on either Side. |
S. | 25°. W. | 3 | to the center of a Stard. bend passing a large Island on the Lard. Side 1 m |
S. | 80°. E. | 3 1/2 | to a pt. in the Stard Bend passing a large Creek on Stard. Side at 2 1/2 M Pryors vally Creek 28 yds wide |
N. | 40°. E | 1 | to the Center of a Lard. Bend |
S | 65°. E | 3 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend |
S. | 60° E | 3 1/2 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend, throughout this the river is divided by a number of Small Islands near the Stard. Side wide bottoms on the Lard. (Campd. 21st July) |
N. | 75°. E. | 2 1/4 | to a Lard. Bend 1 m above a large Island |
S | 34° E | 3 | to the center of a Stard. bend at the upper point of an Island called onion Island |
S. | 80°. E | 1 1/2 | to a Stard. bend passing Several Islands |
N. | 45°. E | 1 | to a Lard. bend passing Several Islands |
S | 25°. E | 6 | passing four long Circular bends, and Several large Islands to a point of the Bluff Stard. Side a large Creek Well timbered falls in on the Star. Side 3/4 of a mile below the extremity, I call White paint Creek. |
S. | 12°. E | 6 | to a Bluff point on the Stard. Side passing on a direct line thro' a General bend the debth of which is 3 miles : within this general bend there are four Smaller circular bends, bottoms continue wide the river Crooked and full of Islands &c. Encamped 22 July 4 m Short of the distance of this course by water. |
S. | 20°. E | 2 | to a point of the Stard. Bluff |
N. | 60° E | 1 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend passing a large Island on Stard. |
S | 30 E | 1 1/2 | to a Stard. Bend passing the upper point of the Island at 1/2 a mile. |
S | 70°. E | 1 3/4 | to the Center of the Lard. Bend passing two out lets to the river on the Stard. |
S | 5°. E | 1 1/2 | to the lower point of an Island, the river 300 yards wide at this place |
S | 20°. E | 2 | to the center of a Lard bend passed an Isld. |
S. | 10°. W | 1 1/2 | to the center of a Stard bend |
S. | 80°. E | 1 | to a point in Stard bend |
N. | 85° E | 3 | to a tree in the Center of the Lard. Bend |
S. | 20° W. | 3 | to a Stard. Bend passing over a large Island comencing at 2 miles, a Creek |
N | 70° E | 1 1/2 | to a point of high timber on Stard. Side |
S. | 20° W. | 2 | to Some dead timber in the Center of a Stard. bend. (encamped 23d. July) |
S. | 40°. E | 1 | to a Lard. bend passing between 2 large Islands |
S | 50°. W. | 1/2 | to the Center of Stard. bend opposit an Island |
S. | 15°. E | 1 1/2 | to a point of high timber in a bend on the Lard. Side. |
S. | 40° W | 1 1/4 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend low Bluffs touching the river at this point. |
South | 3 1/2 | to a Bluff Point in a Stard. bend, passing an Island on Stard. Side |
|
S. | 85°. E | 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend opposit opsd. a large Plain |
S. | 30° E | 1 | to a Bluff point in Stard. Bend |
East | 3/4 | to a point in the Lard. bend passing a Small Island. | |
S | 30°. E | 3 | to the lower point of a large Island |
S. | 85° E | 1 1/2 | to a tree in the Lard. Bend |
South | 1/2 | to a tree on the Stard. Shore opposit the upper point of an Island |
|
S. | 80. E | 1 | to the Center of a Lard. Bend passing the upper point of an Island on Lard. |
S. | 10°. W. | 1 1/2 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend passg an Island at 3/4 of a mile |
East | 2 | to the Center of a Lard. bend passing two Small Islands (Campd. 24th July) |
|
S. | 25°. W. | 1 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend |
S. | 10°. W. | 1 1/4 | to a point in a Stard. Bend passing a Small Island on Lard. Side |
S. | 5°. W. | 3 1/2 | to a point in a Stard. Bend |
S. | 40°. E. | 1 1/4 | to a tree in the Stard. bend passing a point on Lard. at 1/2 a mile |
N. | 80° E | 2 1/2 | to the a Stard Bend passing a Small Island at 1/2 a mile Gass's Crick |
South | 3 | to the center of a Stard. Bend | |
S. | 75°. E | 1 1/2 | to a Bluff Point on Stard. here the river again enters the mountains I believe it to be the 2d Chain of Rocky Mts. |
S. | 55°. E | 1 | to a point in a Lard Bend |
S | 30°. E | 1/2 | to a point in a Lard Bend |
South | 1/2 | to a Clift of rocks in the Lard Bend. (Camped 25th of July) |
|
N. | 45°. W | 1/4 | to a object in the Stard. bend. |
S. | 60°. W | 1 | to a point in Lard. bend passed four Small Islands. |
S | 55°. W. | 1/2 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend |
S. | 65°. E | 1 | to a Clift of rocks in a Stard. Bend passing 2 Small Islands. |
N. | 65°. E | 1 | to the enterence of a Creek in Lard. bend |
S. | 15. E | 1 | to the enterence of a Small run in the Lard. bend the hills here recede from R. call it Howards Creek |
S. | 55°. W. | 1 1/2 | to the center of a Stard. bend |
S. | 12 W. | 2 1/2 | to a point in the Stard. bend |
S. | 15°. E | 3 1/2 | to a point of high timber on the Lard. passing 3 Islands undr. Lard. Shore |
S. | 25°. W. | 1 | to the Center of a Stard. Bend |
East | 1 1/4 | to the Center of a Lard. bend psd. Sdy. Isds. | |
S. | 20°. E | 2 1/2 | to the Centr of Lard bend psd. Sevrl.. Sm. IsldS. L.S. |
S. | 48°. W. | 1 1/2 | to a rock in the Center of Lard. bend (Encamped 26th July) |
N. | 65°. W. | 1/2 | to the Center of Stard. bend passed an Isl'd. Std. |
South | 1 1/4 | to a Clift of high rock on Stard. here the river is again confined between high hills |
|
S. | 2°. E. | 2 1/2 | to the Center of a Lard. bend passd. Sml. Isd. |
S. | 45°. W. | 1 1/4 | to the upper part of a high Clift of rocks in a Stard. bend. opposit to the Mouth or enterence of the East fork of the Missouri we call Gallitins River 70 yds. |
S. | 45°. W. | 1/4 | to the junction of the North & Middle fork of of the Missouri each of these streams is from 90 to 90 [originally written 40 to 60.—Ed.] yards wide a Strong Current dischargeing much water. Middle fork Maddisons River & the North fork Jeffersons River we assended it (Encamped on N. fork the 27th. 28th. & 29th July) |
130 1/4 |
Course and Distance up the Main North fork of the Missouri.[5]
(July 30th.)
miles | |||
N. | 45°. W. | 1/4 | to a small Bayou in the Stard. Bend |
S | 30 W. | 1/2 | to a Starboard bend |
S | 20°. E | 1/4 | to a Larboard bend. encamped 27th. 28th. & 29th on Lard in an island. |
N. | 70° W. | 1/4 | to a Starboard bend |
S. | 20 W | 1/2 | to a Std. bend passing an Island on Std. Side. |
S. | 80° E | 1/4 | to a Larboard bend |
S. | 50° W | 1/2 | to the lower point of an Island |
South | 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend | |
S. | 45°. W. | 1/8 | to a tree in the Lard Bend |
N. | 45° W | 1/4 | to the upper point of an Island |
West | 1/2 | to bend on Lard. opposit an Island | |
N. | 60°. W | 1/8 | to a Chanel passing thro' the Island |
South | 1/4 | to a Lard bend opsd. an Island passed several Small Bayoes Lard Side |
|
West | 1/2 | to the upper point of an Island passing a Bayou on the Lard. Side |
|
S. | 70°. W | 1/4 | to a Bayou on the Lard Side |
West | 1 | to the upper point of an Island passing the upper point one other at 1/4, one at 3/4 of a mile & two Bayous on the L.S. |
|
S. | 60° W | 1 | to a high band on Stard. bend |
S. | 35°. W | 3/4 | to the upper point of a Bluff in a Stard. bend opposit an Island |
S. | 45°. E | 3/4 | to the Lard. bend passd the pt. of an Island & a Bayou |
S. | 35°. W | 1/4 | to the Lard bend opposit an Island |
West | 1/4 | to the Stard. bend opposit an Island psd. 1 | |
S. | 30°. W | 3/4 | to an Island in the Stard. bend opposit a high plain |
S. | 20°. W. | S1 1/4 | to a Clift of rocks under a Mountain S.S. passed an Island |
South | 1/2 | to a point on the Stard Side | |
S. | 30. W. | 1/4 | to a high Clift of uneaven rock on the Stard. Side opsd. an Island |
S | 45°. W. | 1/8 | to the Stard. bend under a Clift |
S. | 45°. E | 1/4 | to a Bayou in the Lard. Bend passing an Island |
S | 60° W | 1/8 | to Bayou in the Stard. bend above an Isld. |
S. | 50°. E | 1/4 | to a Bayou Lard bend opposit Several Small Islands |
S. | 45°. W. | 1/4 | to the Mouth of a Bayou Ld bend |
S. | 20° W | 1/4 | to a Bayou in the Lard. bend passing the upper point of an Island Lard |
S. | 70° W | 1/4 | to the Std. bend. (Encamped 30th July) |
West | 1/8 | to a Bayou in the Stard bend | |
South | 1 | to a Bayou on the Lard. Side at the mouth of a [Pholosipy] river Damed by the Beaver 8 feet |
|
West | 3/4 | to the Stard. Bend at the mouth of a Bayou passed 2 Small Islands one on each Side |
|
South | 1/2 | to the Lard. Bend opposit 2 Islands | |
SW. | 1/2 | to the Lard. Side passed a Bavou L.S. | |
West | 1/2 | to a tree in the Stard. Bend | |
South | 1/8 | in the Stard. Bend | |
S. | 60° E | 1/4 | to a Prarie above willows on Lard. Side |
S. | 25° W | 1/4 | to the lower point of an Island |
East | 1/8 | to the 2nd. mouth of the little river L.Sd. | |
S | 20° W | 1 1/4 | to a bend on the Stard. Side passd. 2 Small Isds. |
S. | 25°. E | 1/4 | to a Lard bend passed the place I crossed the 26 inst: river 100 yds wide 3 feet deep. |
SW | 1/8 | to a Stard. Bend | |
South | 1/4 | to a Lard. bend | |
S | 20° W | 3/4 | to the Lard. bend opsd. an Island |
West | 1/2 | to a Small Bayou in Lard. bend | |
S | 60°. W | 1 | to the head of the Island |
S | 45° W. | 1 1/4 | to a Clift of a mountain on the Lard. Side passed the (Island on Stard.) |
S | 80° W | 1/2 | to a Clift of a Knob on the Std. Sd. Here the Clifts jut in on both sides leaveing a narrow bottoms. |
SW. | 3/4 | to a Low Bluff above the Lard. Clift in a Lard Bend | |
NW. | 1 | to a point of rocks on the Stard. Side upper part of the Clift. |
|
S | 80° W | 1/4 | to a Lard Bend, an Island Lard. Side |
N. | 80 W | 1 | to the Stard. Bend passed an Isld. |
S. | 60° W | 3/4 | to a Small Island in the Stard. Bend |
South | 1/8 | to a tree in the Lard Side | |
S | 70° W | 3/4 | to a Stard. Bend passed an Isld. |
S | 20° W. | 1 3/4 | to the foot of a mountain in a bend to the Lard Side |
N. | 70°. W. | 3/4 | to a Starboard bend |
S. | 70° W. | 1/2 | to Some bushes in a Lard bend passed the mouth of a Small run Ld (Encamped 31st. July) |
N. | 30°. W. | 1 | to a Point of rocks on the Lard Side, at this place the river passes thro a Spur of the Mountain of Perpendiculr Clifts |
N. | 60°. W | 3/4 | to the uppar part of a rock in Std. bend |
S. | 70° W | 1 1/2 | to a Clift on the Lard. Side |
S. | W. | 1/2 | to a Stard Bend |
S. | 26 W. | 1 3/4 | to a Bluff on Stard Side. |
South | 1/2 | to the Lard bend, at this place the river enter a high mountn. of Steep uneaven Clifts |
|
Miles | 37 |
Continued August 1st 1805[6]
N. | 30° W | 1 1/4 | to a Stard. Bend under a high Clift |
N. | 80°. W | 1/4 | to a Clift of high rocks in Std. bend a Small bottom on the Lard. Side |
S. | 60° W. | 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend, under a pine hill |
N. | 25°. W. | 1/4 | to a Small Island on the Lard Side |
N. | 30 E | 1/4 | to the Stard. Bend high Clifts both Sds. |
N. | 80°. W | 3/4 | to the Mouth of a bold Creek on the Lard Side passing an Isld and riffle of 6 feet fall [Frasures fall & Creek] here the river again enters a vallie |
North | 1/2 | to the Stard. bend under a hill | |
NW. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend | |
N. | 70° W | 1 1/2 | to the point of an Island passed Several Small Islands |
North | 1/4 | to a Stard. bend | |
West | 3/4 | to the lower point of an Island | |
NW | 1/4 | to the mouth of a large Creek Std. [R. Fields Creek & Vally] 28 yd. wd. (Encamped the 1st of augt.) |
|
S. | 80° W. | 3/4 | to a Stard. Bend |
S. | 30° W | 1/4 | to a Lard. Bend |
West | 1/4 | to a Bayou in the Lard. Bend | |
North | 1/2 | to a Stard. bend passing a riffle and 2 Small Islands | |
S. | 30°. W | 3/4 | to a Lard. bend passed an Island |
N. | 45°. W. | 1/2 | to a Std. bend passed a Bayoe Ld. |
West | 2 | to an Island passing two points on the Lard. Side two Islands and Several Bayous on the Lard Side th [e] Vallie from 6 to 10 mile wide |
|
South | 1 1/8 | to a Lard Bend | |
NW | 1/4 | to a Stard bend of the Island | |
S | 40° W | 1/8 | in the Stard. bend of the Isld. |
S. | 60 E. | 1/4 | to a Lard. bend passing the point of the Island on the Stard. Side |
SW | 1/2 | in the Lard. bend | |
N. | 10° W. | 3/4 | in the Stard. bend passed a Bayou |
N. | 80°. W | 1/4 | in the Stard. Bend of an Island |
S. | 30°. W | 3/4 | to a Lard. Bend passed the Island |
North | 1/4 | to a Stard. Bend | |
S.W. | 1 | to the mouth of 3 Bayoes in a Std. bend | |
S. | 30°. E | 1/2 | in a Lard. Bend |
S. | 50° W | 1/8 in the Lard Bend | |
N. | 20° W | 1/2 | to a Bayoe in the Stard. Bend |
S. | 20°. W | 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend |
N.W. | 1/4 | to a low Bluff in a Stard. Bend | |
S.W. | 1/8 | in a Stard. Bend passd. a Bayou Std. Side | |
S. | 20°E | 1/2 | to a Lard Bend |
S. | 50°W | 1/4 | to a lower point of an Island |
West | 1/4 | to a Stard. Bend passing a Bayoe on the Std. Side and the Isd. to a Bayoe Std. |
|
S. | 60° E | 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend passed an Isld. |
S. | 45° W | 1/4 | to a Bayou in the Stard. bend |
South | 1/4 | to a Lard Bend | |
S. | 60°. W. | 1/2 | to a Stard. Bend at the mouth of a Bayoe rapid & 30 yds wide |
S.E. | 1/8 | in the Stard. Bend | |
East | 1/8 | to the Lard Bend | |
South | 1/2 | to the Mo: of a Bayoe in Stard. Bend | |
S. | 70°. W | 3/4 | to a Stard. Bend |
South | 1/4 | to a high bottom in a Stard. Bend | |
S. | 70° E | 1/2 | to a Lard. Bend (Campd. 2d. August) |
3d Augt.
South | 1/2 | in a Lard. Bend | |
West | 1 | 1/4 | to a Stard. Bend |
S. | W. | 1/2 | to the Stard. Bend a Small Creek [called panther C.] |
S. | 20° W. | 1/2 | in the Stard. Bend |
S. | 80°. E. | 1 1/4 | to the Lower point of an Island |
South | 1/4 | to a Std. point of the Island | |
S. | 30° E | 1/4 | to a Bayoe in the Island |
South | 1 1/2 | to the upper point of the Island haveing passed 3 points undr. a Cliff |
|
S. | 10° W. | 4 | on a Direct line to the mouth of a Creek Small the |
Dreans of a mountain in which there is Snow in view, river passed under this Mountain on the Lard. Side & has Several Short bends in this Course Vallie wide & to the Stard Side |
|||
S | 25°. | W. 1 | to a Small run in a Lard. bend |
S. | 60°. | W. 1 | to a low Stoney Bluff in a Stard. bend opposit an Island, passd. 1 |
S. | 20° W | 1 | to the lower point of a Island Ld. passed one and thro a narrow rockey Channel under the bluff (Encamped the 3 of Augt.) |
S. | 45°. W. | 5 | on a Direct Course to a Lard. bend passed 4 bends to the Lard. Side & several Bayoes on either Side |
S. | 20°. W. | 4 | with the river to a Bluff on the Lard. side, passed three bends on the Stard. and two Small Islands & 2 Bayoes Sd. |
S. | 60°. W. | 6 | with the river to an Island passed Six round bends on the Stard. and several Small Bayoes. (Campd. 4th. Augt.) |
S. | 45°. E | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend. a Bayou Ld. Side |
S. | 15 W | 1/2 | to a Stard. bend passed an Island |
South | 1 | to a Lard. bend psd. a Small Island and a Bayou on the Stard. Side |
|
S. | 45°. W. | 1/4 | to a Stard. Bend passed an Island |
S. | 30° W | 2 | to a low Clift at the mouth of a Bayoe on the Stard. Side passed 3 rapids in this course |
S. | 60°. E | 1/2 | to a Lard bend passed an Island Std. Side |
S. | 30° W. | 1/2 | to a Bluff in the Stard. bend |
South | 1/4 | in the Stard. bend passed a bad rapid | |
S | 45°. E | 1/4 | to a Lard bend |
South | 1/2 | to a Bluff in a Stard. bend | |
S. | 45°. E. | 1/2 | to a Lard. bend |
S. | 15°. W. | 1/4 | to a Stard. bend under a Bluff |
East | 1/2 | to a Lard Bend passed a Bayoe on Std. Side | |
S | 5° W | 1/4 | to a Bayoe in the Lard. Bend |
S. | 45° W | 1/2 | to a Stard. bend passed an Island |
West | 1/4 | to a Bayoe in the Stard. Bend | |
S. | 45° E | 1/4 | to a Lard. Bend passed an Island |
South | 1/2 | to the forks, passed an Island. Those forks is nearly of the Same Size the NW. fork the most rapid & clear and the one most in our course, the S.E. fork is Still of a Greenish Colour and appears to come from the S.E. between two mountains |
|
98 | up the North fork |
assended the N.W. Fork 9 Miles on a Course S. 30°. W. to a Bluff
on the Stard. Side passed Several Bayoes & Islands
Course Distance &c. above Wisdom River
August 7th.[7]
S. | 45°. E | 7 miles by water 3 miles by land to the mouth of a Creek 12 yds. wide on the Lard. Side passed Seven bends to the Stard. side and Several Small Bayoes on each side. |
Courses of August 8th.
South | 5 miles by water 2 m. by land passing seven bends on the Lard Side two Islds. & several Bayoes to the mouth of Philanthophy river on the Lard. Side 30 yds. wide & navagable |
|
S. | 20° W. | 14 miles by water & 6 by land on a Direct Course to a fiew high trees on the Stard. Side the river bending round to the East 2 miles from this course, passed an Island at 1 mile, another at 7 miles, Several small Bayoes & 35 bends to the Stard. most of those bends are Short & round. |
August 9th.
S. | 12°. W. | 11 miles by water 4 miles derect to a Starbd. bend passd. two Small islands, 16 short round bends on the Stard. Side. we Dined |
S. | 10° E | 3 miles by water 1 m. direct to a high bottom on the Lard Side passed an Island, a Bayoe on the Lard. Side. four Short bends on the Stard. Side. |
August 10th
S. | 30°. W. | 6 1/2 miles by water 2 miles Direct to a Clift of rocks 150 feet high Std Side Called by the Snake Indians the Beavers head, a Clift 300 distant from the Beavers head about 50 feet high passed 8 bends on the Stard. Side two Small bayoes on the Lard. Side |
S. | 60° W. | 6 1/2 miles by water (2 miles on the course) to a low bluff on the Lard. Side, passed four Island [s] & 18 bends on the Stard. Side passing near a low bluff on Stard. Sd. passed Several Small Bayoes. |
August 11th..
S. | 20°. W. | 3 miles by water 1 m. by land to the lower point of 3000 mile Island passed three Small Islands, 6 bends on the Stard. Side, 6 Bayoes on either Side |
S. | 25°. W. | 3 1/2 miles by water 1 1/2 m. by land to the head of the Island Passed Sevin bends on the Lard. Side of the Islands & 2 Bayoes on the Lard. Side. The Stard. Channel passes near the Bluffs |
South | 7 1/2 | miles by water 2 1/2 m. by land to the head of a large Island, the main Chanel on the Lard. Side, passed 3 Small Islands and Several Small Bayoes and 15 bends on the Stard. Side |
August 12th
S. | 8°. W. | 5 1/2 Miles by water 2 miles direct to the head of a large Island, main Chanel on the Stard. Side passed maney Bayoes, 3 Islands, & 9 bends on the Stard. Side |
S. | 10° W. | 6 1/2 miles by water 2 ms. by land to a Stard. bend passed four Small Islands and 2 large Island [s] Several Bayoes and a number of Short bends. passed a run on the Star. Side |
79 |
August 13th.
South | 4 | miles by water 1 [m. by land] to a point of ruged rocks about 70 feet high on the Stard. Sd. Passed the head of the Island opsd to which we Encamped at 2 1/2 Ms. the mouth of a Creek bold running Stream 7 yards wide back of an Island on the Lard Side Mc. Neal Creek |
S. | 30° W. | 6 miles by water 3 m by land to the Clift of high rocks on the Stard. Side passed Several Islands and Bayoes on either Side, the river verry Crooked & bends Short |
August 14th
S. | 14°. W. | 22 | miles by water the river makeing a Genl. Bend to the East 8 miles by land to a place the river Passes a mountain high Clifts on either side, river crooked Cold rapid & Sholey, almost one continued rapid passed a number of bayoes & Small Islands passed a bold running Stream on the Stard. Side 4 yards wide & 3 feet deep at 7 miles, passed a bold running |
Stream from a Spring on the Lard Side at 15 Miles. Encamped the 13th. of august at 6 miles on Ld. Side Encamped 14th. of august at 20 miles on the Lar Side, a high Clift on the Course 3 miles near the upper part of which the Creek passes |
|||
111 |
Course and distance of the River Jefferson Continued[8]
Augt 15th.
S. | 25°. W. | 6 Miles by water (4 by land) to the Mo: of a Creek 10 yards wide bold current I call Willards Creek Passed a point of rocks on the Stard. Side at 2 miles, one on the Lard. at 5 miles passed a bold running Stream at 4 miles on the Lard. Side & an Isld |
S. | 22° E | 3 miles by water (1 mile by land) to a Small bottom on the Lard Side passed a high Clift on the Stard. opposit is a high slopeing hill |
S. | 20°. W | 6 Miles by water (2 by land) to a Small branch on the Lard Side passed no wood except Srub. Clear bottom |
(16th August)
S. | 18°. W | 7 miles by water (3 by land) to a Lard bend under a low bluff, the river bending to the Std. under Some high land verry crooked Shallow rapid & Small, passed Several Island[s] 4 of them opposit each other. Service berry Vallie |
S. | 12° W | 4 Miles by water (2 by land) to a high Clift on the Stard. Side pass Several Small Isds. & Bayoes |
S. | 50°. E. | 1 1/2 m. by water (1 by land) to the mouth of a bold running Stream on the Lard Side opposit a Considerable rapid Clifts on both Sides below high Std. above |
S. | 45°. W | 1/2 mile to the lower point of an Isld. in the middle |
(17th August)
S. | 30°. W. | 10 Miles by water 4 by land to a high Knob in the forks of the river. river bending to the Stard. Side. met Indians & Encamped to make a Portage |
mils 39 |
[Distances from the Narrows to mouth of Columbia].[9]
From Timm or long narrows to the first village Std Side | 14 | 14 |
To friendly village | 6 | |
To Pilgrim rocks | 7 | 13 |
To Catteract River & vilg. | 11 | |
To a village on Std. 3 houses Comsmt. of Mountain | 9 | |
To [blank space in MS.] River 60 yd. Std Sd. | 12 | |
To the Great Shute | 6 | 38 |
To the last rapid | 6 | 44 |
To Quick Sand River on the West side of Mountain | 26 | 26 |
To Tomahawk village S. | 16 | |
To a vilg on Lard. Side at which place Mt. Ranier may be seen | 20 | |
To pt. opsd. a large village behd. an Island | 12 | |
To the narrows of a low mountain | 11 | 59 |
To a village or 2 Houses Lard. side | 16 | |
To a village North of some low marshey Islands Std. | 33 | |
To 4 houses under a Std. Hill | 15 | |
To Shallow Bay | 16 | |
To [blank space in MS.] Inlet | 8 | 88 |
To Point open Slope below the Station Camp 1805 | 3 | |
To Chinnook R. Haley's bay | 12 | |
To Point Disapt. | 13 | 28 |
147 |
From the M. of the Creek No. 1 to a point up the River on the opposite
Side No. 1 is S. 88°. E.[10]
To the nearest pinical of the mountain is S. 44°. E.
To point No. 2, is S. 30°. E.
To Lower point No. 3 is S. 50°. W.
To a stake is S. 71°. W. 82 poles to a 2d stake is S. 75°. W. 112 poles
at a vilg. of 26 Houses, thence to a stake is S. 84 W. 88 poles at a runTo the Stake at Camp N. 89°. West 94 Poles
To the pt No. 1 is East
To the Mountain is S. 49. E
To point No. 2. S. 47°. E.
To point No. 3. S. 41°. W.
To Cape Disapt. S. 88 West
Down the river N. 77°. W
134 Poles to a Creek and (N. 5 West in a bend)
To the mountain & Point No. 2 in same course S. 49°. E.
To Point No. 3. S. 35°. W.
To Cape Disapt. is S. 87°. W.
To a Point between N. 80 West about 1 mile
To point Addams is S. S. E. from Camp
From Camp
Courses and estimated distances from the Quawmash Flats on the
West side of Rocky Mountains to Travellers rest.[11]
ms. | |||
East.— | 11 to Collins's Creek 25 yds. wide, passing a small prarie at 9 ms. road hilly, thickly timbered. |
||
N. | 45°. | E. | 13 to the crossing of Fish Creek 10 yds. wide passing a small creek at 6 ms. |
N. | 75°. | E. | 9. to a small branch of hungry Creek, the road passing along a ridge with much fallen timber. some snow at the extremity of this course. |
N. | 22 1/2 | E. | 5. to the heads of the main branch of hungry Creek. road hilly, some snow. |
N. | 75°. | E. | 3. down hungry Creek on its No[r]th side, passing 2 small branches on it's N. side, the 1st. at 1/2 M and the 2nd. at 1 1/2 ms. further. |
N. | 75°. | E. | 6. still continuing on the N. side of the creek to the foot of the mountain, passing 3 north branches and 1 South branch of the Crek. |
N. | 45°. | E. | 3. to the summit of the mountain where we deposited our baggage on the 17th. inst. |
N. | 45°. | E. | 15. to an open prarie on the side of a mountain having kept the dividing ridge between the Waters of the Kooskooske and Chopunnish rivers. |
N. | 45°. | E. | 28. to an open prarie on the South side of a mountain, having still kept the same dividing ridge mentioned in the last Course, though you ascend many steep mountains and decend into many deep hollows. |
East— | 3. | to the extremity of a ridge where we decend to a deep hollow. much fallen timber caused in the first instance by fire and more recently by a storm from S. W. |
|
N. | 45°. E. | 10. | along a high snowey ridge to an open hillside of considerable Extent passing the road at 4 1/2 ms. which turns off to the right and leads by the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek. |
N. | 45°. E. | 12. | To the quawmash flatts at the head of a branch of the Kooskooske, passing the Kooskoske 35 yd. wide at 5 miles, from hungry Creek to this river the road may be said to be over snow as so small a proportion of it is distitute of it. after passing this river the road dose not agin ascend to the snowy hights. at 7 ms. on this course again fell into the road which leads by the fishery about 4 ms. above the mouth of Quawmash Creek. |
North— | 4. to the Hotspring Creek on the main branch of travellers rest. |
||
N. | 20°. | E. | 3. to the warm or hot Springs down the N. side of the creek. |
N. | 20°. | E. | 3. down the creek passing a Northern branch 3 yds. wide at 1. M. also the Creek itself twice a short distance below the Northern bran[ch] |
N. | 45°. | E. | 10. along the North side of the creek to the entrance of a N. branch of the same 8 yds. wide, a road leads up this branch. |
N. | 60°. | E. | 9. down the N. side of travellers rest creek to the prarie of the Creek and the Vally of Clark's R. |
East— | 9 to our encampment on the S. side of travellers rest, passing the creek 1 M. above and 2 from its mouth |
||
Total | 156 |
Courses and Computed Distances from the Enterance of Travellers
rest Creek into Clarks River to the Falls of Missouri[12]
North | 7 | Miles to the crossing of Clarks river, vally wide the top of the hills covered with long leafed pine. bottoms pine & Cotton wood passed a Small branch |
|
at 3 miles on W Side and at 1 M. further a Small Creek on the E. Side. at 5 miles Clarks river is joined by an Easterly fork 120 yards wide. |
|||
N | 75°. | E. | 7. Miles through a handsom leavel plain to the point where the East fork enters the mountains, or where the hills close it in on both Sides, passed a large Creek 15 yd. wide at 6 miles also one at 3 miles. |
July 4
S | 75°. | E. | 3 miles allong the North Side of the river, the bottoms widen. a prarie. |
N. | 45°. | E. | 1 M. passing a small branch at the extremity of this course. |
S. | 45°. | E | 1 M. to the forks of the East fork of Clarks river a handsom wide plain below on the South Side. |
East | 8 Miles on a Buffalow road up Co-kah-lah-ish-kit river through a timbered Country Mountains high rocky and but little bottom land pore. |
July 5th.
N. | 75°. | E | 3 1/2 Miles passed a Stout Creek on N. Side at 2 1/2 miles. another just above. |
N. | 25°. | E | 12 Miles passed a Small creek at 1 mile on the S. Side on which there is a handsome and extencive vally and plain for 10 or 12 miles also another Creek 12 yds wide at 1/2 a mile on the N. Side, and another 8 yds wide on the N. Side at 5 miles. and one 1/2 mile Short of the extremity of the course arrived at a high prarie on the S. Side from one to 3. miles in width, extending up the river. great number of wild horses on Clarks river about the place Capt. L. crossed it. we saw several. |
East | 6 Miles to the enterance of Warners Creek 35. yards wide through a high extencive prarie on the N. Side. hills low and timbered with the long leafed pine, larch and Some fir. the road passes at some distance to the left of the river and these courses is with the river. |
||
N. | 22°. | W. | 4 Miles to a high insulated Knob just above the enterance of a Creek 8 yards wide which discharges itself into Werners Creek. |
N. | 75°. | E | 2 1/2 Miles to the river passing through a handsom plain |
on Werners Creek crossing that Creek at one mile and leaveing a high prarie hill to the right seperateing the plain from the river. Saw 2 swan in this butifull creek. |
|||
East | 3 Miles to the enterance of a large Creek 20 yards wide called Seamons Creak, passed a creek at 1 mile 8 yds wide, (this course is with the river) the road passing through a high extencive prarie, a vast number of little hillocks and Sink holes. at the head of those 2 Creeks is high broken mountains Standing at the distance of 10 m. forming a kind of cove Generaly of open untimbered country. |
July 6th.
East | 14 Miles to the point at which the river leaves the extencive plains and enters the mountains these plains is called the prarie of the Knobs, passed the North fork of Cokah-lar, ishket river at 7 miles, it is 45 yards wide deep & rapid. passed a large crooked pond at 4 miles further. Great number of burrowing Squirels of the Species common to the Columbian plains. the main branch is 50 yards wide and turbid the other Streams are clear, these plains continue their course S. 75°. E and are wide where the river leaves them. up this vally and Creek a road passes to the Missouri. |
||
N. | 60°. | E. | 1 1/2 miles up the river. bottoms narrow and and country thickly timbered. Cotton wood and pine grow interim [i]xed in the river bottoms passed Several old indian encampments. |
N. | 80°. | E. | 2 Miles to two nearly equal forks of the river. here the road forks also one leading up each river. passed a Creek on N. side 12 yd. wide. |
N. | 75°. | E. | 8 Miles over a Steep high bald toped hill for 2 miles thence 3 M. through a thick woods along the hill Side. bottoms narrow. crossed a large Creek in a butifull plain much beaver Sign. |
July 7th.
N. | 75°. | E. | 6 M. through a leavel butifull plain on the N. side of the river much timber in the bottoms, hills also timbered with pitch pine crossed a branch of the |
Creek 8 yds. wide at 1/4 M. also passed a creek 15 yds. wide at 1/4 further. |
|||
North | 6 Ms. passed the main Creek at 1 Ml. and kept up it on the right hand Side through a handsom plain. the main Stream bore N W. & W as far as I could See it, a right hand fork falls into this creek at 1 ml. above the Commcmt. of this course. |
||
N. | 15°. | E | 8 Ms. over two ridges one [on] again Strikeing the right hand fork at 4 Ms. then continuing up it on the left hand Side. much apperance of beaver maney dams. bottoms not wide and covered with willow and grass. |
N. | 10°. | E. | 3 Ms. up the Same creek on the E Side through a handsom narrow plain. |
N. | 45°. | E. | 2/106 ¾ Ms. passing the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia from those of the Missouri at 1/4 of a mile. from this gap which is low and an easy asent, the road decends and continues down a creek. |
N. | 20°. | W. | 7 Ms. over Several hills and hollows along the foot of the mountain, passed 5 small riverlets running to the right. |
July 8th. 1806.
N. | 25°. | W. | 3 Ms. to the top of a hill from whence we saw the Shishequaw Mountain about 8 Ms. distant imediately before us, passed torrent river at 3 Ms. this Stream comes from the S. W. out of the Mountains which are about 5 miles to our left the bead of the river is 100 yds. wide tho' the water only occupies about 30 yds. runs a mear torrent tareing the trees up by the roots which Stand in it's bottoms, we discover this to be Dearborns River. "The Shishequaw Mountain is a high insulated conic mountain Standing Several miles in advance of the Eastern range of the rocky Mountains" near the Meadecine River. |
North | 14 1/2 Miles through an open plain to Sishequaw Creek 20 yards wide about 10 Ms. below the Mtn which bears S. 32°. W. from us, haveing left the road to our left which keeps near the Mts. |
||
N. | 50°. | E. | 2 Ms. to the discharge of Sishequaw Creek into Medecine River through an extencive leavel and butifull bottom. |
N. | 85°. | E. | 8/28 ¼ Ms. down the Medecine river to a large Island. the bottoms are extensive low and leavel. the lands of neither the Plain or bottom are fertile it is of a light colour intermixed with a considerable portion of gravel. the grass Generaly about 9 inches high. |
July 9th..
N. | 80°. | E. | 4 Ms. through a handsom leavel wide bottom in which there is a considerable quantity of the narrow leafed cotton wood timber. The river is generally about 80 yds. wide rapid it's bed is loose Gravel and pebbles its banks low but seldom overflow, water clear. |
S. | 85°. | E. | 4 Ms. down on the S. W. Side of Medecine river through wide and leavel bottoms Some timber. |
July 10th | |||
N. | 75°. | E. | 24 Miles down the river. 7 Ms. of the latter part of the course no timber. passed a rapid bottom wide and extensive a great number of small islands in the river. |
S. | 75°. | E | 8 Miles to the Missouri at the White Bear Islands at the head of the portage above the falls, passed through the plains. at which place Capt. Lewis continued untill the 15th July 1806. and left 6 men and proceeded towards the head of Marias river with the other 3 men as before mentioned. |
183 |
The most derect and best course from the dividing ridge which
divides the waters of the Columbia from those of the Missouri at the
Gap where Capt. Lewis crossed it is to leave a Short range of mountains
which pass the Missouri at the Pine Island rapid to the right passing
at it's basse and through the plains pass fort mountain to the White
bear Isds. or Medecine river, a fine road and about 45 miles, reducing
the distance from Clarks river to 145 miles one other road passes
from the enterance of Dearborns River over to a South branch of the
Cohahlariskkit river and down that river to the main fork and down
on the N. Side of the main fork to Clarks river &c.
The following survey notes are found in the Clark-Voorhis note-book, No. 1.
They were copied by Lewis in Codex E, pp. 103–106, with some variations, chiefly
due to mistranscription. Lewis, however, makes the final estimate 352 feet, 2 3/4 inches,
instead of Clark's 360 feet, 2 3/4 inches. See map in our vol. ii, pp. 176, 178, under
date of June 20, 1805.—Ed.
The following matter is found in Codex G, pp. 26, 27, in Clark's handwriting,
and describes the route from July 17 to 20, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.
The following is found in Codex G, pp. 34–37, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes the route from July 20 to 27, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.
The following is found is Codex G, pp. 39–41, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes the route from July 30 to Aug. 1, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.
The following continuation is found in Codex G, pp. 46–49, in Clark's handwriting,
and describes the route from Aug. 1 to Aug. 5, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.
The following is found in Codex G, pp. 60–62, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes the route from Aug. 7 to 14, 1805, inclusive.—Ed.
The following is found in Codex G, p. 67, in Clark's handwriting, and describes
the route from August 15 to 17, inclusive.—Ed.
This list of distances is found on a separate leaf towards the end of the Clark-Voorhis
field-book.—Ed.
These bearings in and about the mouth of the Columbia were found
entered on
a separate leaf towards the end of the Clark-Voorhis field-book.—Ed.
The following is found in Codex L, pp. 70, 71, in Lewis's handwriting, and
describes the route from June 24 to June 30, 1806, inclusive.—Ed.
The following is found in Codex N, pp. 144–148, in Clark's handwriting, and
describes Lewis's route from July 3 to 10, 1806, inclusive, over what is known as
Lewis and Clark's Pass. Cf. Clark's Summary Statement, post.—Ed.
B. LEWIS'S SUMMARY VIEW OF RIVERS AND CREEKS, ETC.[13]
A SUMMARY VIEW OF THE RIVERS AND
CREEKS, which discharge thems[elves] into the Missouri;
containing a discription of their characters and
peculiarities, their sources and connection with other rivers
and Creeks, the quality of the lands, and the apparent face of
the country through which they pass, and the width, and
distance of their entrances from each other; to which is also
added a short discription of some of the most remarkable
points and places on the Missouri; taken from the information
of Traders, Indians & others; together with our own
observations, from the junction of that river with the Mississippi,
to Fort Mandan.
The confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers is situated in
89°. 57′. 45″ Longitude West from Greenwich, and 38°. 55′. 19″. 6.
North Latitude. Ascending the Missouri from hence, at the distance
of 21 miles, you arrive at the Village of St. Charles, situated on the
North bank of the river, in a narrow tho' elivated plain, which is
bounded in the rear by a range of small hills; hence the appellation
of Petit cote, a name by which, this village is better known to the
inhabitants of the Illinois, than that of St. Charles. The village is
bisected or divided into two equal parts by one prinsipal street about a
mile in length, runing nearly parallel with the river. It contains a
Chapple, one hundred dwelling houses and about 450 inhabitants. the
houses are generally small and but illy constructed. a great majority of
the inhabitants are miserably poor, illiterate, and when at home, excessively
lazy; tho' they are polite, hospitable and by no means deficient
in point of natural genious. they live in great harmony among themselves,
and place as implicit confidence in the doctrines of their
speritual pastor, (the Roman Catholic priest) as they yeald passive
obedience to the will of their temporal master, the Commandant. A
small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their cultivation. this
labour is commonly imposed on the old men and boys; those in the
and in order to gain the necessary subsistence for themselves and
families, either undertake hunting voyages on their own account, or
engage themselves as hirelings to such as possess sufficient capital to
extend their traffic to the natives to the interior parts of the country.
on those voyages in either case, they are frequently absent from their
families or homes, the term of six, twelve, or eighteen months, during
which time they are always subjected to severe and incessant labour,
exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages, the vicissitudes of the
weather and climate, and dependant on chance and accedent alone,
for food, raiment, or relief in the event of malady; yet they undertake
those voyages with cheerfullness, and prefer the occupation of the
hunter, or engage, to that of the domestic, and independent farmer.
Ascending the Missoury at the distance of 12 miles, Bonhomme Creek
discharges itself on the S. side. it is 23 yards wide at it's entrance
is of no great length, & passes through a fertile well timbered country,
inhabited by American emigrants principally.
At the distance of 9 miles higher up we pass the mouth of the Osage
woman's river, which discharges itself on the N. side; it is 30 yards
wide at it's entrance, heads with two small streams which discharge
themselves into the Mississippi a small distance above the mouth of the
Illinois River, is navigable for perogues some miles during the spring
season, and waters a fertile well timbered country inhabited by about
fifty American families. this part of the country is generally called
Boon's settlement, having derived it's name from it's first inhabitant
Col° Daniel Boon, a gentleman well known in the early settlement of
the state of Kentucky.
About 9 miles higher up, and 69, from the Mississippi, Chaurette
Creek falls in on the N. side. it is 20 yards wide at it's mouth, waters
a tolerable country well covered with timber, but is of no great extent.
it heads with the waters of the River Ocuivre[14]
a branch of the
Mississippi. immediately below the mouth of this creek five French
families reside, who subsist by hunting and a partial trade w[h]ich they
mantain with a few detached Kickapoos who hunt in the neighbourhood.
this is the last settlement of white persons which we meet with in
ascending the Missouri.
At the distance of 34 miles higher up the Gasconade disembogues on
the S. side behind a small Island covered with willow. at it's entrance
it is 157 yards wide, but is much narrower a little distance up, and
length, heads with the Marameg & St. Francis rivers. the country
watered by this river, is generally broken, thickly covered with timber
and tolerably fertile. the hills which border on the Missouri near
the mo[u]th of this river are about 300 feet high, containing excellent
limestone in great abundance. I have observed in ascending the Missouri
to this place, that whenever the river washes the base of the
hills on either side, it discloses large quarries of this stone, lying in
horizontal stratas, from 10 to 40 feet in thickness. this stone is
of light brown colour, with a smal tint of blue; fracture imperfect
conchoidal; when broken it presents the appearance of a variety of
small shells and other marine substances, of which it seems to be
entirely composed. in this solid and massive rock, are inclosed stones
of yellowish bro [w] n flint, of bulbous and indeterminate shapes, from
an ounce, to ten or twelve pounds weight. these stratas of limestone
are not unusually found overlaying a strata of freestone, or soft sandstone,
from two to twenty feet in thickness. this stone produces lime
of an excellent quality, and is the same with that, which makes it's
appearance on the Mississippi from Cape Gerrardeau, to the entrance
of the Missouri.
F[i]fteen miles up we pass Muddy River which falls in on the N
side. this river waters a most delightfull country; the land lies well
for cultivation, and is fertile in the extreem, particularly on the
Missouri, both above and below this river for many miles; it is covered
with lofty and excellent timber, and supplyed with an abundance of
fine bould springs of limestone water. this river is 50 yards wide
several miles above it's mouth.
2 miles higher up Muddy creek discharges itself; it is 20 yards wide
at it's mouth, heads with cedar Creek, and the branches of Muddy
river. the country through which it passes is similar to that last
mentioned.
At the distance of 19 miles higher up, you arrive at the mouth of the
Osage River; being 137 miles from the junction of the Missouri and
Mississippi. it is 397 yards wide at it's mouth, opposite to which,
the Missouri is 875 yards wide. it disembogues on the S. side just
above a cluster of small Islands. it takes it's rise in an open country
of Plains and Praries, with some of the Northern branches of the
Arkansas; some of it's tributary streams on it's North side, also have
their sou [r] ces in a similar country, with the Southern branches of
the Kanzas river. The rivers Arkansas and Kanzas circumscribe
the length of this river, and interlock their branches to the West of
tho' it is more broken on the lower portion of the river; the bottom
lands are wide, well timbered, and but partially liable to inundation;
the soil consists of a black rich loam many feet in debth. the uplands
also consist of a dark loam overlaying a yellow or red clay; a majority
of the country consists of plains intersperced with groves of timber.
the timber still diminishes in quantity as you proceed Westwardly with
the river. on the South side of this river 30 leagues below the Osage
Village, there is a large lick, at which some specimenes of the bones
of the Mammoth have been found; these bones ar [e] said to be in
considerable quantities, but those which have been obtained as yet, were
in an imperfect state. Mr. Peter Chouteau, a gentleman of St. Louis,
made an attempt some years since to explore this lick, but was compelled
to desist from his labour, in consequence of the quantity of
water discharged into the lick from a neighbouring spring, which
he had not the means or the leasure to divert; since which time,
no further attempt has been made. The specimens obtained by
Mr. Couteau were large; but much mutilated. the Osage river is
navigable 120 leages for boats and perogues of eight or ten tons
burthen, during the fall and spring seasons; in winter it's navigation
is obstructed by ice, and during the Summer months it experiences an
unusual depression of it's waters, a characteristic of most streams,
which have their sources in an open plain country, or which, in their
courses pass through a majority of that discription of lands. the bed
of the river is generally composed of mud, gravel and sand, and is
but little obstructed by rocks or driftwood.
At the distance of five miles above the mouth of the Osage river,
Murrow[Moreau] Creek falls in on the S. side, 20 yards wide at it's
mouth and navigable for perogues a few miles. it takes it's rise with
the waters of the Osage river and those of Salt river (branch of the
Missouri) it traverses in it's course to the Missouri, a tolerable country,
well timbered and water[e]d. the mouth of this creek is the point at
which the Saukes, Foxes, and Ayouways usually pass this river [to]
wars with the Osages.
7 miles higher up, Cedar Creek falls in on the N. side, above an
Island, on which there is Cedar, hence the name of the creek. it
heads with muddy creek, and passes though a delightfull country in it's
course to the Missouri. it is well timbered and abounds in springs
of excellent water.
at the distance of ten miles further you pass the mouth of Good-woman's
Creek, about 20 yards wide. opposite to the entrance of this
contain lead ore, our surch for this ore however pruved unsuccessfull
and if it dose contain ore of any kind, it must be concealed. this Creek
takes it['s] rise in the highlands with Split rock Creek and passes
through a fertile country well timbered and watered. in the last nine
miles of it's course it passes through an extensive fertile bottom nearly
parallel with the Missouri.
Nine miles higher you pass the mouth of Manitou Creek on the S.
Side. it is but a small creek head [ing] a few miles back in an open
country; the land ab[o]ut it's entrance on the Missouri are of an
excellent quality and covered with good timber.
Nine miles further Split rock Creek discharges itself on the N. side,
twenty yards wide and navigable for perogues some miles. it waters
a well timbered country; the land about the mouth, appears to be of the
second quality, or at least inferior to that heretofore seen in ascending
the Missouri.
At the distance of 3 miles, still ascending, Salt river disembogues on
the S. side; being 180 miles from the entrance of the Missouri. it is
30 yards wide and navigable for perogues 40 or 50 miles; passes
through a delightfull country, intersperced with praries. so great is the
quantity of salt licks and springs on this river that it's waters are
said to be brackish at certain seasons of the year. one large lick and
spring are situated on it's S. E. bank about nine miles from the Missouri.
this river heads with the waters of the Osage river, Murrow
Creek, and Mine river.
Ascending the Missouri ten miles further we arrive at the entrance
of Manitou river, which disembogues on the N. side, just below a high
clift of limestone rock, in which we found a number of rattle-snakes
of large size. this stream is about 30 yards wide, and is navigable for
perogues some miles. about three miles from the Missouri on the
lower side of this river there are three small springs of salt water which
do not appear to be of the best quality. the country about the mouth
of this river, particularly on it's lower side, is a charming one; the soil
fertile in the extreme, and well covered with excellent timber. the
country on the upper portion of this river is but little known.
At the distance of nine miles further, Good-woman's river falls in on
the N. side; it is 35 yards wide at it's entrance; meanders through an
extensive rich bottom nearly parallel with the Missouri for some miles
befor it discharges itself. it is navigable for perogues 15 or 20 miles,
waters a fine farming country intersperced with open plains and praries,
and heads with the little Shariton river.
At the distance of nine miles Mine river discharges discharges itself on
the S. side, it derives it's name from some lead mines which are said to
have been discov[er]ed on it, tho' the local situation, quality, or quantity
of this ore, I could never learn. this river is 70 yards wide at it's entrance,
navigable for perogues 80 or 90 miles, and through the greater part of
it's course runs parellel with the Missouri; at the distance of 70 miles
up this river it is only 5 leagues distant from the Missouri. it takes it's
rise in an open hilly country with Bluewater river and some of the
Northern branches of the Osage river. the courant of this river is even
and gentle. The country through which it passes is generally fertile,
and consists of open plains and praries intersperced with groves of
timber. near it's entrance the country is well timbered and watered,
and the lands are of a superior quality.
Twenty two miles higher up the two Shariton rivers discharge themselves
on the N. side, the smaller falling into the larger on it's lower
side at a small distance from the Missouri. the little Shariton river
heads with Good-woman's river, and is 30 yards wide at it's entrance;
this country has not been much explored, the portion of it which is
known is fertile, and consists of a mixture of praries and woodlands.
The larger Shariton is 70 yards wide above the entrance of the smaller,
and is navigable for perogues nearly to it's source. it takes it's rise near
the Red Cedar river a Western brance of the river Demoin. the country
through which it passes is level, and fertile consisting of an irregular
mixture of woodlands and praries, each alternately predominating in
different parts.
Twenty two miles higher up, the Grand river disembogues on the N.
side just above a beatifull and extensive prarie in which the ancient
village of the Missouris was situated. Old Fort Orleans is said to have
stood on the lower point of an Island a few miles below this place, no
traces of that work are to be seen. this river is 90 yards wide at it's
entrance and is said to be navigable for boats and perogues a considerable
distance. it heads with the Rackoon river a branch of the Demoin.
The country through which it passes is similar to that discribed on the
larger Shariton river. about the entrance of this river the lands are
extreemly fertile; consisting of a happy mixture of praries and groves,
exhibiting one of the most beatifull and picteresk seens that I ever
beheld.
At the distance of eight miles Snake creek falls in on the N. side. 18
yards wide at it's entrance. it runs parallel with the Missouri nearly
it's whole extent, passing through a delightfull country, well timbered
and watered.
Thirty seven miles higher up Tigers Creek falls in on the N. side,
opposite to the upper point of a large island. some excellent bottom
lands in the neighbourhood of it's mouth; interior country not known.
Fifteen miles higher up Eubert's river and Creek fall in on the S.
side, opposite to an island, which concealed their entrances from our
view. they are but small streams, head with the Mine river, and water
an excellent country, consisting of a mixture of praries and woodlands.
Twenty six miles further, Hay Cabbin Creek falls in on the S. side.
it heads near the Bluewater river and passes through a good country.
the land is very fine and well timbered near it's mouth.
Seventeen miles above, Bluewater river falls in on the S. side; 36
yards wide at it's entrance; and navigable but a short distance. it has
one considerable fall, and several rappids well situated for waterworks.
it heads in an open country with Mine river, and passes through a
roling country. the lands are tolerably good; it's bottom lands are
wide, fertile and sufficiently covered with good timber; some beatifull
natural meadows are also seen on it's borders.
Still ascending the Missouri, at the distance of 9 miles the Kanzas
river disembogues itself on the South side; being 364 miles from the
junction of the Missouri and Mississippi. This river takes it's rise not
very distant from the principal branch of the Arkansas in a high broken
sandy country, forming the Southern extremity of the black hills. from
hence it takes it's course nearly East about 300 leagues through fertile
and leavel, plains & praries, intersperced with groves of timbered land;
it then enters a country equally fertile and well timbered, through which
it meanders about 20 leagues further and discharges itself into the
Missouri. it has been navigated 200 leagues and there is good reason
to believe from the appearance of the river and country at that point
that it is navigable for perogues much further perhaps nearly to it's
source. The rivers Platte and Arkansas interlock their branches West
of this stream. there are no obstructions to the navigation of the
Kanzas, it's current is gentle, and the bed of the river composed of soft
loam, gravel and sand; in the summer and autumn it's waters are trans
parent. about 3/4 of a mile from the entrance of this river on it's North
side there is a handsome bluff about 100 feet high, which furnishes an
excellent situation for a fortification; there is an abundance of excellent
timber for the purpose immediately at the place. The Colateral
branches of this river, and the most remarkable places on the same so
far as we have been enabled to inform ourselves are as follow—
Names of Creeks rivers & remarkable places | distances from each other |
distances of each from the Mouth of the Kanzas. |
width in yards |
the side of the Kanzas into which they fall |
The three rivers, near each other and about the same size |
- | 10 | 20 | N. |
The St[r] anger's wife river | 5 | 15 | 35 | N. |
Bealette's Creek. | 3 | 18 | 22 | N. |
Wor-rah-ru za river | 1 | 19 | 40 | S. |
Grasshopper Creek. | 2 | 21 | 25 | N. |
Heart river | 10 | 31 | 30 | N. |
The old Kanzas Village | 9 | 40 | - | N. |
Full river | 5 | 45 | 50 | S. |
Black-paint river | 27 | 72 | 38 | N. |
Bluewater river and the present village of the Kanzas just below |
8 | 80 | 60 | N. |
Me-war-ton-nen-gar Creek | 5 | 85 | 18 | N. |
War-ho-ba Creek | 3 | 88 | 15 | S. |
Republican river | 15 | 103 | 200 | N. |
Solomon's Creek | 12 | 115 | 30 | N. |
Little salt Creek | 10 | 125 | 30 | N. |
On the West side of the Republican river, about sixty leagues above
it's junction with the Kanzas, a small creek falls in on the S. W. side,
called Salt creek, the water of this creek is excessively salt, salt in it's
dry and granulated state, is to be found in large quantities on the
borders of this stream throughout it's whole extent; the earth on which
it forms, is remarkably furm, and the salt can be readily collected, free
from any extranious substance, by sweeping with a brush of feathers.
Ten miles higher up the Little river Platte falls in on the N. side, 60
yards wide at it's entrance. it heads in open plains between the Nadawa
and grand rivers, and through the principal part of it's course passes
through high open plains interspersed with groves of timber. 6 or seven
leagues before it discharges itself into the Missouri, it meanders through
a high fertile well timbered bottom nearly parallel with that river, and
receives in it's course severall handsom creeks, which discharge themselves
into it from the hills. at the distance of 12 leagues it's navigation
is obstructed by a considerable fall, above which, it is shallow and
interrupted by such a number of rappids, that it is no further practicable.
This fall, and many of the rapids afford excellent situations for gristmills,
and other water-works.
Twenty five miles further Turkey Creek falls in on the S. side, this
creek is but small, passes through open bottoms nearly parallel with the
Missouri, and in rear of an Old Kanzas Village. this creek once furnished
water to an old French garrison situated near it's mouth.
Thirty three miles further Independance creek falls in on the S. side,
a little below the second old village of the Kansas; is 22 yards wide
at it's mouth; it possesses some excellent bottom lands, and waters a
beatifull and fertile country consisting of high open plains and praries
principally; on it's borders, and about it's entrance there is a sufficient
quantity of timber. it takes it's rise with the Stranger's wife river, and
the waters of Woolf river. we knew of no name by which this creek
was called, and therefore gave it that of Independance, from the circumstance
of our having arrived at it's mouth on the 4th. of July 1804.
At the distance of 48 miles higher up Nadaway river discharges itself
on the N. side nearly opposite to the upper point of a large Island,
which bears it's name. it is 70 yards wide some miles above it's mouth,
and is navigable for perogues a very considerable distance. it takes it's
rise with grand River, Nish-nah-ba-to-na, and the waters of the river
Demoin; and passes in it's course to the Missouri through a fine fertile
country, consisting of a mixture of woodlands and plains; the lands
about it's mouth are well timbered and water [e]d.
Fourteen miles [further] up the Missouri, Woolf river discharges
itself on the S. side. it is 60 yards wide at it's entrance and navigable
for perogues a considerable distance; takes it's rise with the waters of
the Kanzas and Ne-ma-haw rivers, and in it's course to the Missouri
passes through a level fertile country principally open plains and praries,
tho' generally well watered and possesses a sufficient quantity of timber
on it's borders and near it's mouth. great quantities of grapes, plumbs
& raspberries are found in the neighbourhood of this stream.
Sixteen miles higher up, Big Ne-ma-har falls in on the S. side, opposite
to an Island covered with willows; it is 80 yards wide, and
navigable for large boats some distance, and for perogues nearly to it's
source. it heads with Blue-water river, branch of the Kanzas, and
throughout it's whole course, passes through rich, and level plains, and
praries. there is some timber on it's borders, and about it's entrance;
it's tributary streams are also furnished with some timber. the country
is well watered.
Three miles further the Tarkio Creek falls in on the N. side, twenty
three yards wide at it's entrance; it is navigable for perogues a short
distance. it heads with the Nadiway and passes through a tolerable
country of plains and woodland.
Twenty five miles higher up The Nish-nah-ba-to-na River discharges
itself opposite to the lower point of an Island on the N. Side, and is
50 yards in width at it's entrance. it heads with the Nadawa river
and passes through a fertile country deversifyed with plains meadows
of this country. at the Bald-pated prarie, it enters the Missouri bottom
and approaches that river within 300 paces, when it returns again to
the highlands, and continues it's course along the foot of the same
about 30 miles before it discharges itself. at the Bald pated prarie it
is 40 yards wide, possesses considerable debth of water, and is navigable
many miles; the country lying between the Missouri and this river,
from the Balld pated prarie nearly to it's mouth, is one of the most
beautiful, level and fertile praries that I ever beheld; it is from one to
three miles in width. there is a considerable quantity of timber on
the banks of the Missouri, and but little on the Nishnabatona.
At the distance of eight miles higher up, the Little Ne-ma-har River
falls in on the S. side. 40 yards wide. it heads with salt River branch
of the River Platte, and passes through an open fertile country in[t]ersperced
with groves of timber. it is navigable some miles for large
perogues. there are several handsome streams of fine water, which fall
into the Missouri both above and below the mouth of this river in it's
neighbourhood.
Fifty two miles higher up, Weeping water Creek falls in on the S.
side. it is 25 yards wide at it's entrance, heads in high broken plains
near Salt River, and passes through a roling country, mostly uncovered
with timber and not very fertile there is a scant proportion of timber
on it[s] banks and some clumps of trees are scattered over the face
of the country. there is some handsom bottom lands on this stream,
and the country is generally well wartered.
Thirty two miles higher up, and distant 630 from the confluence
of the Missouri and Mississippi, the great river Platte disembogues on
the S. side. The steady, regular, and incessant velocity of this stream,
is perhaps unequaled by any on ea[r]th; notwithstanding it's great
rapidity the surface of the water continues smooth, except when occasionally
interruped by a boiling motion, or ebullition of it's waters.
this motion of the water is also common to the Missouri, and Mississippi,
below the mouth of that river, and always takes place in the most rappid
part of the current; in this manner the water is seen to rise suddenly
many inches higher than the common surface, then breaking with a
rappid and roling motion, extends itself in a circular manner in every
direction arround, interrupting the smooth, tho' rappid surface of the
water for many yards. this ebullition of the water of those rivers, is
a singular phenomenon, nor do I know to what cause to attribute it,
unless it be, the irregular motion of large masses of sand and mud at
their bottoms, which are constantly changing their positions. The bed
particles of which, are remarkably small and light; these collecting,
form large masses, which being partially buoyed up, are hurryed along
at the bottom by this impetuous torrent, with irresistible force; sometimes
obstructed by each other, suddenly stop; and form large sand
bars in the course of a few hours, which are again as suddonly dissipated
to form others, and to give place perhaps to the deepest channel
of the river. From the experiments and observations we are enabled
to make, with rispect to the comparitive velocity of the currents of the
Mississippi, Missouri and Platte rivers, it results, that a vessel will
float in the Mississippi below the mouth of the Missouri, at the rate of
four miles an hour; in the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississippi
to the entrance of Osage river at the rate of 5 1/2 to 6 miles
an hour; from thence to the Kanzas from 6 1/2 to 7; from thence
to the Platte, from 5 1/2 to 6 miles an hour, while that of the Platte
is at least 8. The current of the Missouri above the entrance of the
Platte is equal to about 3 1/2 miles an hour as far as the mouth of the
Chyenne river, when it abates to about 3 miles an hour, with which
it continues as far as we have yet ascended it; and if we can rely on
the information of the Indians, it's current continues about the same
to the falls of the Missouri, situated five hundred miles above Fort
Mandan. The river Platte dose not furnish the Missouri with it's
colouring matter, as has been asserted by some; but it throws into it
immence quant[it]ies of sand, and gives a celerity to it's current, of
which it dose not abate untill it joins the Mississippi. The water of
the Platte is turbid at all seasons of the year, but it is by no means as
much so, as that of the Missouri; the sediment it deposits consists of
small particals of white sand, while that of the Missouri is composed
principally of a dark rich loam in much greater quantity. This river
has in some few instances been navigated as high as the Pania Village
with perogues, but it is attended with infinate labour and risk. Hunters
have also ascended this river in small canoes as high as the Woolf river,
a distance of 35 leagues; and the savages sometimes descend in small
leather canoes made of a Buffaloe's skin. When the Plat enters the
Missouri it's superior force changes and directs the current of the latter
ag[a]inst it's Northern bank, compressing it within a channel of not
more than one fifth of the width it had just before occupyed. this
river is 600 yards wide at it's entrance; and when we passed it, on
the 21st. of July, it's greatest debth of water was five feet. we were
informed by one of our engages, who is well acquainted with this river
for a considerable distance, that in many places it was from two to
bars, and that the navigation became wo[r]se, the higher he ascended.
the banks of this river are very low, yet it is said, that it very seldom
overflows them, or rises more than about 6 feet perpendicular above
it's lowest tide. The position of the head of the Southern, or main
branch of this river is not well asscertained; on connecting the sources
of the rivers better known, it appears most probable, that it takes it's
rise in the Rockey, or shineing Mountains with the Bravo or North
river, and the Yellow stone river, branch of the Missouri; from whence
it takes it's course nearly East, passing the heads of the Arkansas at no
great distance from Santa Fee, continues it's rout to the Missouri,
through immence level and fertile plains and meadows, in which, no
timber is to be seen except on it's own borders and those of it's tributary
streams. commencing at the Missouri and ascending this river,
it's principal subsidiary streams are first the Salt river, seven leagues
distant, falls in on the S. side, and is 50 yards in width. this stream
is however more remarkable for the excellency of it's salt licks and
springs than for it's magnitude. the whole courant of this river is
brackis[h] in the Summer season quite to it's mouth. There are three
principal salines on this stream; the first at the distance of 50 miles
from it's mouth, and the others at no great distance above; two of
these furnis[h] considerable quantities of salt in it's dry and granulated
state, the other furnishes salt both granulated, and in compact masses.
the granulated salt is found on the surface of a compact and hard earth
composed of fine sand with a small proportion of clay producing no
vegitable substance of any kind and is easily collected by sweeping it
together with a soft broom or brush of feathers. the massive salt is
formed by concretion, and is found either on the surface of the earth
over which the water passes, or adhering to stones sticks or other furm
substances washed by the salt water in it's passage. I have obtained
no satisfactory account of any fossil salt being found in Louisiana, altho'
repeated enquiries have been made off such as possess the best information
of the interior parts of the country; I am therefore disposed to
believe, that those travellers who have reported it's exhistance, must
have mistaken this massive salt, formed by concretion, for that substance,
saltpetre has been found in it's crystallized state in some limestone
caverns near the head of this river.
Thre[e] leagues above the salt river a beatifull clear and gentle stream
called Corne des Cerfe, or hart's horn river discharges itself on the N.
side. it is about sixty yards wide. it takes it's rise in some sandy
plains between the Wolf River and the Quecurre; thence runing Eastwardly
entrance of the Sioux river, thence veering about to the S. E. passes
through a fertile level country, parallel with the Missouri to the River
Platte. it is navigable a considerable distance for canoes and light perogues.
there is but little timber in the country through which it passes.
Ascending the Platte five leagues further you pass the village of the
Ottoes and Missouris situated on the S. side. 15 leagues higher up
and on the same side, the Panias Proper, and Republican Panias reside
in one large village. five leagues further still ascending, the Wolf river
falls in on the N. side. 400 hundred yards wide, and is navigable for
Perogues between 4 and 500 miles, and for large boats a very considerable
distance. This stream takes it's rise in a remarkable large fountain,
situated in a level plain, equadistant betwen the rivers Quicurre
and Plat, at some little distance below the Cote noir or Black Hills;
from whence it passes through level and fertile plains and meadows in
which there is scarcely a tree to be seen except on it's own borders, and
those of it's tributary streams. the current of this river is gentle and
sufficiently deep; it's bed is composed principally of a brown sand, unbroken
by rocks or drift wood, and has no rappids worthy of notice
from it's source to it's mouth.
At the distance of seventy five leagues higher up, Ringing Water river
falls in on the S. side, about 300 yards wide. heads in the Black hills
near the source of the Kanzas, and passes through an open tho' broken
country about half it's course; it then decends into a level and fertile
country composed almost entirely of open plains and meadows through
which it passes to the Platte.
Just above the black hills, th[r]ough which the Platte passes, a large
river said to be nearly as large as the South fork, falls in on the N. side,
after haveing continued it's rout along the Western side of the Black
hills for a very considerable distance. the distance from the entrance
of this river to the mouth of the Platte is not well asscertained. This
is usually called the Paducas fork; it heads with the Bighorn river,
branch of the Yellow Stone, in some broken ranges of the Rockey
mountains. it's upper portion passes through a hilly, broken and Mountanous
country, possessing considerable quantities of timber; it then
descends to a plain open and level country lying between the Rockey
Mounts and the black hills, through which it passes to join the Platte.
there are some considerable bodies of woodland on and near this stream.
The smaller branches of the rivers Platte & Wolf so far as they are
known to us are as follows; they uniformly water a level open country
generally fertile.
Names of streams falling into the Platte | Distances from the Missouri in leagues |
width in yards |
side of the river on which they discharge |
Shell river | 27 | 30 | N. |
Short Leg river | 40 | 30 | S. |
Deer Creek | 52 | 28 | S. |
The Falling Creek | 70 | 20 | S. |
T[h]ose of the Loups, or Wolf River | |||
Little willow Creek | 42 | 25 | N. |
Mustle shell Creek | 45 | 20 | N. |
Elk Creek | 49 | 26 | S. |
Gravley Creek | 54 | 20 | S. |
White Bluff creek | 64 | 20 | S. |
Deepwater Creek | 79 | 25 | S. |
Three miles above the entrance of the river Platte Butterfly Creek
falls in on the S. side, 18 yards wide, heads in the plains between the
Hart's Horn river and the Missouri; the courntry fertile with but little
timber.
7 miles higher Musquetoe Creek falls in on the N. side; it is 22
yards wide and heads with the Nishnahbatona river in an open country.
the Missouri bottom through which it passes is about 6 miles wide, level,
extreemly fertile and about one half well covered with timber.
20 miles further Indian Creek falls in opposite to the lower point of
an Island on the N. side, three miles above an old Ayouway's village.
it heads in the highlands a few miles back; passes through the Missouri
bottom and approaches the river within 20 feet, 6 miles above it's entrance;
at this point it is 5 feet higher than the water of the Missouri.
it is 15 yards wide.
8 miles higher up Bowyer's river falls in on the N. side. it is 25
yards wide, and navigable for perogues some distance; passes through
a country tolerably fertile, with but little timber.
Twelve miles above the mouth of Bowyer's river we arrive at the
Council Bluff on the S. side. this is one of the points, which in our
statistical view of the Indian Nations of Louisiana, we have recommended
as an eligible position for a trading establishment. it is a delightfull
situation for a fortification, & commands a view of the river
both above and below for a considerable distance. the base of the
Bluff is washed by the river about a mile; it is about 60 feet high &
nearly perpendicular; at it's lower extremity it leaves the river nearly
at right angles, decending with a handsome and regular declivity on
lying betwen itself and the river. the top of the bluff is a level plain
from one to two miles in width, and about five miles in length. This
place would be sufficiently convenient for the Ottoes, Missouris, Panias
Proper, Panias, Loups, Panias Republican, Poncaras, Mahas, & the
Yanktons Ahnah. if peace is established between the various tribes of
Indians inhabiting this immence country, it is more than probable, that
this post would also be visited by many of those wandering bands, who
inhabit the country west of the black hills. The principal difficulty
which will attend the erection of a fortification at this place is the want
of proper timber with which to build. there is a sufficient quantity of
a species of poplar common to all the bottom lands of the Missouri,
called by the French inhabitants of the Illinois—Liard, and by the
Americans Cotton-wood. it is a soft white wood, by no means dureable,
and of which it is extreemly difficult to make plank or scantling. there
is some oak in the neighbourhood but it is of an inferior quality. I concieve
that the cheepest and best method would be to build of brick, the
ea[r]th appears to be of an excellent quality for brick, and both lime
and sand are convenient. The drift wood of the Missouri will always
supply a sufficient quantity of fuell independant of that in the neighbourhood.
with rispect to quality and quantity of timber, this bluff is
better situated than any other for upwards of a thousand miles above it,
and equal to any below it for many miles.
Leaving the council Bluff and ascending the Missouri 39 miles we
arrive at the mouth of Soldier's river 30 yards wide. it heads with the
river Demoin, and passes to the Missouri through an open, level and
fertile country. is navigable for perogues a considerable distance.
44 miles further up Ye-yeau War da-pon or stone river falls in on the
N. side. this river is known to the traders of the Illinois by the name
of little Sioux river, but as they have given the appellation of Sioux to
four distinct streams we thought it best to adopt the name given it by
the Siouxs, to whos[e] country it's entrance forms the lower boundary
on the Missouri. this stream is 80 yards wide at it's entrance; takes
it's rise in a small lake nine miles distant from the River demoin, with
which, it communicates in high water through a small channel; the
river demoin is but shallow at this point tho' it is 70 or 80 yards wide,
and said to be navigable. this stream is navigable from it's sou[r]ce to
the Missouri for perogues or canoes, passes through a broken country
with but little timber. the land is tolerably fertile. an Easterly and
most navigable fork of this river is formed by the discharge of Lake
Dispree [d'Esprit or Spirit Lake] 22 leagues in circumference; this
miles. the country between the Demoin and Lake Dispree is level
with but little timber, and interrupted with a number of small lakes or
ponds.
From the entrance of the Ye-yeau War da-pon, to the Old Maha Village,
a distance of 100 miles, there is not a single stream which discharges
itself into the Missouri, that is worthy of' notice. The Maha
creek, on which the last village occupyed by that nation was situated at
some little distance from the Missouri, discharges itself on the S. side
through several channels. this creek is but small, takes it's rise in some
level and fertile praries near the Hart's Horn river and passes through
a delightfull country in it's course to the Missouri. the distance from
the old Maha village to the Council Bluff is 90 miles by land.
16 miles higher up Floyds river falls in on the N. side 38 yards wide.
This river is the smallest of those called by the trade[r]s of the Illinois
the two rivers of the Sioux, but which with a view to discrimination, we
have thought proper to call Floyd's river in honor of Sergt. Charles Floyd,
a worthy and promising young man, one of our party who unfortunately
died on the 20th. of August 1804, and was buried on a high bluff just
below the entrance of this stream. This river takes it's rise with the
waters of the rivers Sioux and Demoin; from whence it takes it's course
nearly S. W. to the Missouri, meandering through level and fertile,
plains and meadows, intersperced with groves of timber. it is navigable
for perogues nearly to it's source.
3 miles above Floyds river, The river Sioux disembogues on the N.
side above a bluff; it is one hundred and ten yards wide at it's entrance,
and navigable nearly to it's source; with the exception of one fall of
about twenty feet high, situated 70 leages from it's mouth. it takes it's
rise with the St. Peter's and Vulter rivers, in a high broken and woody
country called the Hills of the prarie. it waters a deversifyed country,
generally level fertile and uncovered with timber; in some parts particularly,
near the falls, it is broken & stoney, and in others, intersected by
a great number of small lakes which possess some timber generally on
their borders. at no great distances below the falls and in a remarkable
bend of the river, three handsom streams fall in on it's East Side at no
great distance from each other; the 1st. ascending is the Prickley Pear river,
which takes It's rise in some small lakes near the Demoin the 2nd. The
River of the Rock, passes the head of the River Demoin, and takes it's
rise in small lakes. the third is called red pipe stone river, which heads
with the waters of the River St. Peters. the country watered by this last
river is remarkable for furnishing a red stone, of which the savages make
distances to obtain this stone, and it is ascerted, tho' with what justice
I will not pretend to determine, that all nations are at peace with each
other while in this district of country, or on the waters of this river.
Sixty miles above the Sioux river the White Stone river discharges
itself on the N. side. it is 30 yards wide at it's entrance, heads in a
chain of Nobs West of the bend of the Sioux river, and passes in it's
whole course through level—beautifull and fertile plains and meadows
entirely destitute of timber. it is not navigable.
20 miles higher up little bow creek falls in on the S side, below an
old Maha village. it is 20 yards wide and waters a beautifull, fertile,
plain, and open country. the remains of two small ancient fortifications,
are found on this creek at a short distance from it's entrance.
12 Miles higher up, and distant 974 from the junction of the Missouri
and Mississippi, the river James discharges itself; it is 90 yards
wide, and navigable for perogues a very considerable distance; it's current
is gentle and it's bed composed of mud and sand. it takes it's
rise with Chyinne river, branch of Red river which discharges itself into
Lake Winipic. This st[r]eam pases through an open country of plains
and meadows through it's whole course. the land is generally fertile,
and a scant proportion of timber is found on the banks of the river.
The Siouxs annually hold a fair on some part of this river, in the latter
end of May. thither the Yanktons of the North, and the Sissitons,
who trade with a Mr. Cammaron on the head of the St. Peters river,
bring guns, pouder & balls, kettles, axes, knives, and a variety of European
manufactures, which they barter to the 4 bands of Tetons and the
yanktons Ahnah, who inhabit the borders of the Missouri & upper part
of the River Demoin, and receive in exchange horses, leather lodges,
and buffaloe robes, which they have either manufactured, or plundered
from other Indian nations on the Missouri and west of it. This traffic
is sufficient to keep the Siouxs of the Missouri tolerably well supplyed
with arms and amunition, thus rendering them independant of the trade
of the Missouri, and enableing them to continue their piratical aggressions
on all who attempt to ascend that river, as well as to disturb
perpetually the tranquility of all their Indian neighbours. I am perfectly
convinced that untill such measures are taken by our government
as will effectually prohibit all intercourse or traffic with the Siouxs by
means of the rivers Demoin and St. Peters, that the Citizens of the
United States can never enjoy, but partially, those important advantages
which the navigation of the Missouri now presents. it appears to me
that with the assistance of the garrisons of St. Louis, and Chicargoo,
of the Oisconsin and the other on the Mississippi at Sand lake, that the
passages of the trade[r]s to the rivers Demoin and St. Peters would be
sufficiently guarded. by prohibiting the trade with the Siouxs through
the St. Peters and Demoin for a few years, they will be made to feel
their dependance on the will of our government for their supplies of
merchandize, and in the course of two or three years, they may most
probably be reduced to order without the necessity of bloodshed. in
the mean time the trade of the Missouri will be acquiring a strength,
and regularity within itself, and an influence among other Indian nations,
which could not be easily interrupted by the Siouxs, when the government
should hereafter t[h]ink proper to reestablish an intercourse with
them, through the channels of the St. Peter's and Demoin rivers.
At the distance of 38 miles higher up Plumb Creek falls in on the
N. side. this creek is but small, heads in the highlands a few miles
back, and passes through beatifull level and fertile praries in it's course
to the Missouri.
8 miles higher up white Paint Creek, falls in on the S. side, 28 yards
in width. it takes it's rise in a broken Hilly and open country between
the Quicurre and Hart's horn rivers. passes through a broken country
with some handsome plains an[d] praries, it is not navigable. but possesses
many excellent situations for grist mills and other waterworks.
6 miles above this creek and at the distance of 1026 from the entrance
of the Missouri, the River Quiccurre (Qui-court.) or rappid river,
discharges itself on the S. side; where it is one hundred and fifty two
yards wide. this river takes it's rise in the Black hills, about one hundred
leages West of it's mouth, and passes through a variagated country.
at it's source and for seventy five leagues below the country is mountanous
rockey and thickly covered with timber, principally pine; the
bed of the river is interrupted by immence quant[it]ies of loose and
broken rocks, many ledges of rocks also lie ac[r]oss this stream over
which it tumbles perpendicularly from 6 to 15 feet. in this country
the Indians as well as some of the French hunters report the existence
[of] many mines. some of lead, others of a metal resembleing lead,
but of a lighter colour more dense & equally malleable; it is not stated
to be silver. this metal is said to be readily extracted from it's ore
which is a loose earth, with the heat of a common fire of wood. there
are said to be some sand plains of considerable extent lying between the
upper portion of this river and the Hart's Horn river. the country on
it's lower portion for 25 leagues consists of open plains and meadows,
with but a very small proportion of timber; the bed of the river here
is nearly or quite equal to that of Platte. it is not navigable a single
mile.
8 mile above the rappid rive[r] the Poncar river disembogues on the
S side, 30 yards wide. Three miles from the mo[u]th of this river on
it[s] S. side the Poncars resided a few years since in a fortifyed village,
but have now joined the Mahas and become a wandering people. Poncar
river heads in the open plains not far from the mouth of White
river, and runs nearly parallel with the Missouri passing through some
tolerably fertile plains and meadows.
At the distance of 114 miles higher up, White river discharges itself
on the S. side. it is 300 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable
for boats and perogues for many leagues. this river is perfectly the
Missouri in miniture, resembleing it in every particular. it takes it's
rise short of the black hills, with the waters of the C[he]yenne and
rappid rivers, in an open country; from whence it passes through level
and fertile plains & meadows, in which there is scarsely any timber to
be seen. some pine most probably grows on it's borders, I discovered
several sticks of that timber among the driftwood at it's entrance.
22 Miles higher up, the Three rivers of the Siouxs pass discharge
themselves, on the N. side, opposite to a large Island well covered with
timber. the 1st. of these streams which we meet with as we ascend is
35 yards wide, and is navigable for perogues some distance, with a few
obstructions of rappids or shoals. it heads with James's river, and
possesses but little timber on it's borders. the country on the upper
side of this river is a high level and fertile plain of many leagues in
exten[t] the lower side generally broken Praries, neither possessing any
timber worthy of mention. the other two streams are small, extending
only about 8 miles back, and water a country of high handsome and
fertile plains, with but little timber.
From hence to the commencement of the big bend is twenty miles;
in this distance you pass four small Creeks, which discharge themselves
on the S. side, and one on the N. side; these creeks take their rise at
the distance of 6 or 7 miles in the open plains, and possess but little
timber. the bottoms of the Missouri are generally wide and but badly
timbered. the big bend of the Missouri lies in a circular form, and is
30 miles around, while it is only one mile and a quarter across the
gorge.
5 miles above the uper extremity of this bend Tylor's river falls in, on
the S. side. this river is about 35 yards wide, and is navigable some miles
for perogues. it takes it's rise in an open country between the White
below the mouth of this river on the Missouri there is an extensive bottom
well covered with timber, consisting principally of red cedar.
55 miles higher up, the Teton River discharges itself on the S. side.
this river is seventy yards wide, and is navigable for perogues many
leagues. it heads with the waters of the Chyenne and White rivers,
and passes through open and fertile plains and meadows. possesses
some timber on it's borders, as do also it's tributary streams. in these
plains there is rarely an instance of a tree to be seen.
47. miles above the entrance of the Teton river and 1327 from the
Mouth of the Missouri, the rive[r] Chyenne disembogues on the S.
side, and is abot 400 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable for
perogues to it's forks near the black hills, a distance of 200 miles by
land, nearly due west from it's entrance. The Northern branch of
this river penetrates the Black hills, and passes through a high broken
well timbered country to it's source, the Southern fork takes it's rise in
the Black hills, on their E side, and passes through a broken country
covered with timber, to it's junction with the N fork; from whence
united, they take their course through a woody and broken country
fror some few leagu[e]s, then entering an open fertile and level country
it continues it's rout to the Missouri the timber of the Black hills,
and on this river near them, consists of pine and Cedar principally; on
it's lower portion Cottonwood and Cedar, of which however there is
but a scant proportion and that confined immediately to the river hills
and bottoms. about the entrance of this river we have recommended
an establishment for the purpose of trading with the Indians. it's position
is central and sufficiently convenient for a number of Nations and
tribes; but the difficulty of procuring timber for the purpose of building
is very considerable, tho' in this particular it is equal to any other
for an emence distance both above and below it. a difficulty also arises
with rispect to lime of which there is none in it's neighbourhood. large
quantities of tar may be procured on the river near the Black hills, and
may be readily brought down the river. tar and sand in the proportion
of one gallon to the Bushel, make a furm and strong cement. if an
establishment is made at this place, the work must of necessity be
principally formed of brick; there being no stone and but little timber.
the drift-wood of the Missouri will supply an ample quantity of fuell.
78 miles higher up, Otter Creek falls in on the N. side, 22 yards
wide, navigable a few miles in high water. it takes it's rise in open
plains nearly E. of it's entrance, and passes through a similar country;
very little timber in it's vicinity.
3 miles higher up, and on the S. side, the Sar-war-car-na river discharges
itself, 90 yards wide. it is navigable for perogues 40 or 50
leagues; takes it's rise short of the Black Hills with the waters of the
Chyenne; from whence it meanders through fertile and level plains and
meadows, almost entirely destitute of timber.
22 miles above, We-ter-hoo river discharges itself on the S. side. this
stream is 120 yards wide; and may be navigated nearly to it's source
in the Black Hills. It passes through a country similar to that discribed
on the Sar-war-kar-na.
2 miles higher up, and the same distance below an island on which
[is] the lower village of the Ricaras, the river Ma-ro-pa falls in, on the
the S. side; it is 25 yards wide at it's entrance; takes it's rise about 5
leagues west of the the entrance of the war-re-con-ne river, in open
plains. it passes through an uneven roling country, without timber,
and but badly watered, for the distance of about 50 miles, nearly
parallel to the Missouri, before it discharges itself. The Ricaras
obtain a red and black earth on the borders of this stream, which they
use for the purpose of painting their skins, or ornamenting their Buffaloe
robes, which at all seasons of the year constitutes a principal article of
their dress.
Leaving the mouth of this river and ascending the Missouri, at the
distance of 2 1/2 miles you pass the 1st. Ricara village, from 3 1/2 to 4
miles further, you pass two others situated on the South side near the
river. still ascending at the distance of 24 miles above the entrance of
Ma-ro-pa river, the Stone Idol Creek falls in on the N. side; 18 yards
wide. it heads in a small lake a few leagues distant and passes through
a rich level plain; the land is fertile but without timber. a canoe can
pass from the river to this lake.
37 miles higher up, Sar-kar-nak or Beaver Creek falls in on the N.
side, at the lower point of an Island. about 20 yards wide, heads in
some small lakes a few miles from the river, and passes through a level
fertile and open country.
3 Miles further still ascending, and at the distance of 1498 miles from
the entrance of the Missouri, War-re-con-ne river falls in on the N. side
just above an island. it is 35 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable
in high water to it's source. takes it's rise in an assemblage of
small lakes, in level and open plains, not very distant from the head
of James's river. in it's course to the Missouri it passes through extensive,
level and fertile, plains and meadows, in which scarsely a tree
is to be seen.
13 miles higher up the Cannon Ball river falls in on the S. side, and
with a few interruptions of rappids, and for perogues and Canoes nearly
to it's source. it takes it's rise in a level country with the Chesschetar
and the waters of the Wetarhoo rivers, from whence in it's course to
the Missouri it passes through a variety of country, some broken &
partially timbered, near it's source; other parts broken, hilly and bare
of timber, and in others beautifull and extensive plains and meadows,
with but little timber, all sufficiently fertile, and some extreemly so.
there is some Cottonwood, Ash and Elm on it's borders.
5 miles higher up the Fish Creek discharges itself on the N. Side; 28
yards wide. it takes it's rise in small lakes, in the open plains, and
passes through handsome plains and meadows, in it's course to the
Missouri; but little timber on it's borders.
35 miles higher up, Chess-che-tar, or heart river falls in on the S. W.
side; 38 yards wide; not navigable except in high water, and then but
a short distance. it heads with the waters of the Knife river in open
plains S. W. of the turtle mountain. in it's course to the Missouri it
passes through open plains and meadows, generally fertile, and always
untimbered. there is some Ash, Cottonwood, and Elm on it's borders.
14 miles higher up, Hunting creek discharges itself on the S. side.
it's bottom lands are wide and fertile with but little timber, takes it's
rise in, and passes through an open country of high plains.
50 miles higher up at the distance of 1,615 miles from the junction
of the Missouri and Mississippi, the Knife river falls in near the Village
of the Ahwahharways on the S. side a little above the Mandans. this
river is about 80 yards wide, but is not navigable, except for a few days
in the spring of the year. It takes it's rise in the turtle Mountains
about 90 Miles N. W. of it's mouth, and passes through an open
fertile country. there is a considerable quantity of timber on the upper
part of this river, and much more on it's borders generally than is met
with on streams of the same size in this open country. The Minetares,
Ahwahharways, and Mandans hunt principally on this river, and
many of [the] Minetares pass the winter on it, in small parties, of 5 or
six families.
As we have only ascended the Missouri, a few miles above the
Mouth of Knife river, the subsequent discription of this river, and it's
subsidiary streams are taken altogether from Indian Information. the
existence of these rivers, their connection with each other, and their
relative positions with rispect to the Missouri, I conceive are entitled
to some confidence. information has been obtained on this subject, in
the course of the winter, from a number of individuals, questioned
been carefully compared, and those points only in which they generally
agreed, have been retained, their distances they give, by days travel,
which we have estimated at 25 miles pr. day.
About fifteen miles above the mouth of Knife river, the E-pe,-âh-zhah,
or Miry river discharges itself on the N. Side. it is but an inconsiderable
stream as to width, but extends itself through level and open plains
about 30 miles N. E. of it's entrance, taking it's rise in some small
lakes, strongly impregnated with Glauber Salts. not navigable.
Ascending the Missouri about one hundred miles further, the E-mâh-tark', Ah'-zhah. or Little Missouri discharges itself on the S. side. about
the width of Knife river. takes it's rise in the No [r] thern extremity of
the Blackhills. and passes through a broken country with but little
timber. it passes near the turtle mountain in it's course to the Missouri.
it is said not to be navigable in consequence of it's rappidity and shoals.
About 117 miles higher up, the Ok-hâh-Ah-zhah, or White earth
river, discharges itself on the N. side. it is said to be about the size
of the Cannonball river; takes it's rise N. Westwardly from it's mouth
in level open plains with the waters of the S. fork of the Saskashawin
river, and passes through an open and level country generally without
timber some timber on the borders of this stream, it is navigable nearly
to it's source, which is said not to be very distant, from the establishment
of the N. West Company on the S. branch of the Saskashawin. if
this information be correct it is highly probable that a line drawn due
West from the lake of the Woods, in conformity to our treaty with
Great Britain, would intersect the waters of this river, if so the boundary
of the United States would pass Red river betwen the entrance of
the Assinniboin and Lake Winnipic, including those rivers almost entirely,
and with them the whole of the British trading establishments
on the red Lake, Red river and the Assinniboin should the portage
between the Saskashawin and White earth river, prove not to be very
distant or difficult, it is easy to conceive the superior advantages, which
the Missouri offers as a rout to the Athabasca country, compared with
that commonly traveled by the traders of Canada.
About 3 miles above the mouth of White Earth river the Me'-ah'-zah,
or Yellowstone river discharges itself on the S. side. this river is
said to be nearly as large as the Missouri, but is more rappid. it takes
it's rise in the Rocky mountains, with the waters of a river on which
the Spaniards reside; but whether this stream be the N. river, or the
waters of the Gulph of California, our information dose not enable
us to determine. from it's source it takes it's course for many miles
stoney, and thickly timbered. the vallies said to be wide in many
places and the lands fertile. after leaving the Rocky mountains it
decends into a country more level, tho' still broken, fertile and well
timbered. this discription of country continues as far down as the Oke-tar-pas-ah
–ha, where the river enters an open level and fertile country
through which it continues it's rout to the Missouri; even in this open
country it possesses considerable bodies of well timbered land. there
are no stream [s] worthy of notice which discharge themselves into this
river on the N. side, the country between this river and the Missouri
being watered by the Mussle shell river. the yellow Stone river is
navigable at all seasons of the year, for boats or perogues to the foot of
the Rocky Mountains, near which place, it is said to be not more than
20 miles distant from the most southernly of the three forks of the
Missouri, which last is also navigable to this point. if Indian information
can be relied on, this river waters one of the fairest portions of
Louisiana, a country not yet hunted, and abounding in animals of the
fur kind. The bed of this river is formed of sand gravel and yellow
rock. from the great rapidity of this stream after it enters the rocky
mountains, it is said not to be navigable. we are informed that there
is a sufficiency of timber near the mouth of this river for the purpose
of erecting a fortification, and the necessary buildings. in point of
position, we have no hesitation in declaring our belief, of it's being one
of the most eligible and necessary, that can be chosen on the Missouri,
as well in a governmental point of view, as that of affording to our
citizens the benefit of a most lucrative fur trade. this establishment
might be made to hold in check the views of the British N. West Company
on the fur-trade of the upper part of the Missouri, which we believe
it is their intention to monopolize if in their power. They have
for several years maintained a partial trade with the Indian nations on
the Missouri near this place, over land from their establishment at the
entrance of Mouse river on the Assinniboin, unlicenced by the Spanish
government, then the sovereigns of the country. But since the U'States
have acquired Louisiana, we are informed, that relying on the privilege
extended to them by our treaty with Great Britain, they intend fixing
a permanent establishment on the Missouri near the mouth of Knife
river, in the course of the present summer. if this powerfull and ambitious
company, are suffered uninterruptedly to prosecute their trade
with the nations inhabiting the upper portion of the Missouri, and thus
acquire an influence with those people; it is not difficult to conceive
the obstructions, which they might hereafter through the medium of that
of the Missouri. whether the privileges extended to British subjects, under
existing treaties with that power, will equally effect a territory not in
our possession at the time those treaties were entered into, is not for me
to determine; but it appears to me, that in this rispect Liouisiana is
differently situated, from the other territory of the United States.
The tributary streams of the Yellow stone river so far as we have
been enabled to inform ourselves are as follow.
Names of the subsidiary streams of the Yellow Stone river, ascending from it's entrance |
distance from each other & of the 1st. from the mouth of the river |
side on which they discharge. |
Miles | ||
Oke-tar-pas-ah-ha | 75 | S. |
War-rah-sash, or Powder river | 75 | S. |
Le-ze-ka, or tongue river | 50 | S. |
Mar-skas-kap river | 100 | S. |
Ark tar-ha river | 125 | S. |
Ar-sar-ta, or big-horn | 75 | S. |
Stinking Cabbin creek | 175 | S. |
About one hundred fifty miles on a direct line, a little to the N. of
West, a river falls in on the N. side called by the Minetares Ah-mâh-tâh,
ru-shush-sher or the river which scolds at all others. this river
they state to be of considerable size, and from it's position and the
direction which they give it, we believe it to be the channel through
which, those small streams, on the E side of the Rocky mountains laid
down by Mr. Fidler, pas to the Missouri. it takes it's source in the
Rocky mountains S. of the waters of the Askow or bad river. and
passes through a broken country in which, there is a mixture of woodlands
and praries. it is worthy of remark that, the Missouri in it's
course from the mouth of the yellow stone river to the entrance of this
rivr. passes considerably further to the North than the mouths of either
of these rivers; this information we have received since our map has
been completed. it will be observed by reference to the map, that
there are no streams falling in-to the Askow on it's S. side, from which,
it is probable, that the country nearly to it's borders, is watered by the
streams of some other river, and as the Missouri runs considerably N.
above the Mouth of the Yellow stone river. and that on it's nothern
border no stream of any magnitude discharges itself except the scolding
river, the probability is that the country very near to the Askow is
watered by the little rivulets of the Missouri, and the branches of the
West from the Lake of the Woods, in conformity to our treaty with
Great Britain, will intersect the waters of the Missouri, if not the main
body of that river itself.
About 120 miles on a direct line, nearly S. W. the Mah-tush,-ah-zhah,
or Muscle shell river falls in on the S. side. this river is about
the size of the Cannonball river, heads in a range of mountains which
commence about the falls of the Missouri, and extending themselves
nearly South terminate near the yellow stone river. this stream passes
through a broken and woody country. The woody country commences
on the Missouri just above the mouth of this river.
About 120 miles further a little to the S. of West, on a direct line,
the great falls of the Missouri are situated, this is discribed by the
Indians as a most tremendious Cataract. they state that the nois it
makes can be heard at a great distance, that the whole body of the
river tumbles over a precipice of solid and even rock, many feet high;
that such is the velocity of the water before it arrives at the precipice,
that it projects itself many feet beyond the base of the rock, between
which, and itself, it leaves a vacancy sufficiently wide for several persons
to pass abrest underneath the torrent, from bank to bank, without
weting their feet, they also state that there is a fine open plain on the
N. side of the falls, through which, canoes and baggage may be readily
transported. this portage they assert is not greater than half a mile, and
that the river then assumes it's usual appearance, being perfectly
navigable.
About 15 miles further on a direct line a little to the S. of W. a
large stream called Mah-pah-pah,-ah-zhah, or Medicine river falls in on
the N. side. this river heads in the rocky Mountains opposite to a
river which also takes it's rise in the same mountains and which runing
West discharges itself into a large river, which passes at no great
distance from the Rocky mountains, runing from N. to South. it passes
through a mountanous, broken and woody country. not navigable in
consequence of it's rapidity and shoals.
About 60 miles further on a direct line nearly S. W. the Missouri
passes through the first connected chain of the Rocky mountains. and
is said to be rapid and shoaly from hence to the second chain of the
rocky Mountains a distance of 75 miles further, about the same course
last mentioned. above this second range of mountains the current of
the Missouri is said to be smoth even and gentle; here two small rivers
fall in on the S. side, receiving their waters from the west side [of]
these mountains between the Missouri and the Yellow stone river.
Still proceeding S. W. about 75 miles further the Missouri divides
itself into three nearly equal branches just above a third chain of very
high mountains, all these streams are navigable for some distance. the
most No [r] thern is the largest, and is navigable to [the] foot of [a]
chain of high mountains, being the ridge which divides the the waters of
the Atlantic from those of the Pacific ocean. the Indians assert that
they can pass in half a day from the foot of this mountain on it's East
side to a large river which washes it's Western base, runing from S. to
N. at no great distance below the Flat-head Indians live in one considerable
village on the western border of this river, this is the utmost
extent of the war exurtions of the Minetares and we have therefore
been unable to acquire any information further West than the view
from the top of thes[e] mountains extend. The Indians inform us that
the country on the Western side of this river consists of open & level
plains like those they themselves inhabit, with a number of barren sandy
nobs irregularly scattered over the face of the country; the E. side of the
river, betwen it and the mountains is broken, and thickly covered with
pine. they state that there are no buffaloe west of the second range of
the Rockey mountains, and that the Flat-heads live principally on a large
fish, which they take in the river on which they reside. The Snake
Indians also frequently visit this Western river at certain seasons of the
year, for the purpose of taking fish which they dry in the sun and transport
on horses to their villages on the three forks of the Missouri. This
river we suppose to be the S. fork of the Columbia, and the fish the
Salmon, with which we are informed the Columbia river abounds. this
river is said to be rapid but as far as the Indian informants are acquainted
with it is not intercepted with shoals. it's bed consists principally
of sand and gravel.
The waters of the Missouri are transparent at all seasons of the year
above the falls.
With rispect to other rivers, their Subsidiary streams, and their connection
with other rivers and streams, the map which is herewith forwarded,
will give you a more perfict idea, than a detaled discription of
them would do. the mountains, salines, trading establishments, and all
the other remarkable places, so far as known to us, are also laid down
on this map.
1st. U's Regt. Infty.
Found in Codex O, pp. 19–128, and apparently written at Fort Mandan during
the winter of 1804–05.—Ed.
C. CLARK'S SUMMARY STATEMENT OF RIVERS, CREEKS,
AND MOST REMARKABLE PLACES.
CLARK made three tabulations of this character:
(1) That found in Codex C, pp. 242–253, having
been drawn up at Fort Mandan; (2) another in
Codex I, pp. 2–12 (also, substantially the same, in Clark-Voorhis
note-book No. 4), made at Fort Clatsop, and giving
the route out; and (3) a final draft, both in Codex N, pp.
128–142, and in Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4, prepared apparently
after the return home. The third tabulation seeks to
give the best route from the mouth of the Missouri to the
Pacific Ocean, and includes Lewis's short-cut path homeward,
between Travellers' Rest Creek and the Falls of the Missouri
—given, however, in the reverse order. We have, for convenience
of consultation, herein amalgamated these several
statements.——Ed.]
A Summary Statement of the Rivers Creeks and most remarkable
places, their distances from each other &c. their distances
from the Mississippi assending the Missouri, across the Rocky
mountains and down the Columbia to the Pacific Ocian as was
explored in the year 1804, 5, and 6, by Capts. Lewis & Clark &c
Names of remarkable places. | The width of rivers and creeks in yds. |
Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi |
Latitude North of important Places |
River Dubois Latitude 38° 55′ 19.6″ Longtd 89° 57′ 45″ |
yards | Ms | Ms | ||
To the Village of St Charles | N.E. | 21 | 21 | 38° 54′ 39″ | |
" Bon-homme Creek | — | S.W | 12 | 33 | |
" the Osage Womans River | 30 | N.E. | 20 | 41 | |
" a Cave Called the Tavern | — | S.W | 5 | 47 | |
" " Chauretts Village & Creek | 20 | N.E. | 27 | 68 | |
" " Shepherds Creek | S.W. | 15 | 83 | ||
" " Gasconnade River | 157 | S.W. | 17 | 100 | 38° 44′ 35.3″ |
" " Muddy River | 50 | N.E. | 15 | 115 | |
" Grand Osage River | 397 | S.W. | 18 | 133 | 38° 31′ 16.9″ |
" the Murrow Creek | 20 | S.W. | 5 | 138 |
Names of remarkable places. | The width of rivers and creeks in yds. |
Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi |
Latitude North of important Places |
yards | Ms | Ms | |||
To the Cedar Island & Creek | 20 | N.E. | 7 | 145 | |
" " Lead Mine Hill | S.W. | 9 | 154 | ||
" " Manitou Creek | 20 | S.W. | 8 | 162 | |
" " Split rock Creek | 20 | N.E. | 8 | 170 | |
" " Saline or Salt River | 30 | S.W. | 3 | 173 | |
" " Manitou River | 30 | N.E. | 9 | 182 | |
" " Good Womans River | 35 | N.E. | 9 | 191 | |
" " Mine River | 70 | S.W. | 9 | 200 | |
" " Arrow Prarie | S.W. | 6 | 206 | ||
'Two Charliton Rivers | {30 70 | N.E. | 14. | 220 | |
" " antient village of the Missouri Nation near which place Fort Orleans stood |
N.E. | 16 | 236 | ||
" Grand River | 90 | N.E. | 4 | 240 | 38° 47′ 34″ |
" " Snake Creek | 18 | N.E. | 6 | 246 | |
" " antient village of the little Osarge |
S.W. | 10 | 256 | ||
" 'Tiger's Island and Creek | 25 | N.E. | 20 | 276 | |
" Eueberts[15] Island Creek | S.W. | 12 | 388 | ||
" 'Fire prarie Creek | S.W. | 12 | 300 | ||
" " Fort point | S.W. | 6 | 306 | ||
" " Hay Cabin Creek | 20 | S.W. | 6 | 312 | |
" " Coal Bank | S.W. | 9 | 321 | ||
" " Blue water River | 30 | S.W. | 10 | 331 | |
" Kanza River | 230 | S.W. | 9 | 340 | 39° 5′ 25.7″ |
" the Lite River Platt | 60 | N.E. | 9 | 349 | |
" [point] 1/2 Ms. above Dimond Island | S.W. | — | — | 39° 9′ 38.6″ | |
" the Waarba, Warconda Island oppoe the 1st. Old Kanzas Villag |
— | S.W. | 26 | 377 | |
" 3 Ms. bel, the 2d. old village of the Kance |
— | S.W. | — | — | 39° 25′ 47.5″ |
" " Indepeance Creek a mile below the old Kanzas Village |
S.W. | 28 | 405 | ||
" " St Michis prarie | N.E. | 25 | 430 | ||
" " Nadawaver | 70 | N.E. | 20 | 450 | 39° 39′ 22.4″ |
" " Wolf or up River | 60 | S.W. | 14 | 464 | |
" Big Ne-me-hRiver | 80 | S.W. | 16 | 480 | 39° 55′ 56″ |
" the Tar-ki-o eek | 23 | N.E. | 3 | 483 | |
opposit the center of Good Island | — | S.W. | — | — | 40° 20′ 12″ |
" " Neesh-nah-b-to-no River | 50 | N.E. | 25 | 508 | |
" " Little Ne-Mahar River | 48 | S.W. | 8 | 516 | 40° 8′ 31.8″[16] |
Names of remarkable places. | The width of rivers and creeks in yds. |
Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi |
Latitude North of important Places |
yards | Ms | Ms | |||
To the Bald Pated Prarie the Neesh-} Nahbatona within 150 Yards of the Missouri |
— | N.E. | 23 | 539 | 40° 27′ 6.4″ |
Pt opposit to a Island being the extremity of the 4th. course of July 19th. on L. S. |
— | S.W | — | — | 40° 29′ 38″' |
" " Weeping Water Creek | 25 | S.W. | 29 | 568 | |
" " River Platt (or Shoal river | 600 | S.W. | 32 | 600 | 40° 54′ 35″ |
" " Butterfly or papelion Creek | 18 | S.W. | 3 | ||
" " Musquetor Creek | 22 | N.E. | 7 | 610 | |
" " Camp Pt. of observn. 10 ms. N. 15° W of Platt R White Catfish Camp |
— | S.W. | — | — | 41° 3′ 104″ |
" " antiant Village of the Ottoes | S.W. | 11 | |||
" " antient Ayauways Village below a Bluff on the N. E. Side |
N.E. | 6 | |||
" " Bowyers river | 25 | N.E. | 11 | ||
" Councill Bluffs (establishmt.) | S.W. | 12 | 650 | 41° 17' 0″ | |
opposit pond Inlet August 4th. | — | S.W. | — | — | 41° 2′ 3″ |
on the Side of a Sand Island August 5th. |
— | — | — | — | 41° 0' 6″ |
" Soldiers River | 40 | N.E. | 39 | 689 | |
" Ea-neah, Wau-de-pon or Stone River Little Sieux R. |
80 | N.E. | 44 | 733 | 41 42′ 34.3″ |
" the hill where the Late King of the Mahars was buried on a high hill |
S.W. | 4° 1′ 3.8″ | |||
" the Wau-can-de or bad sperit Creek | S.W. | 55 | 788 | ||
around a bend of the river to the N. E. the Gorge of which is only 974 Yds |
21 | 809 | |||
To an Island 3 miles N E of the Mahar vilg Camp Fish augt. 14th. |
27 | 836 | 42° 13′ 41″ | ||
" Floyds Bluff and River | 35 | N.E. | 14 | 85 | |
" the Big Sieoux River | 110 | N.E. | 3 | 853 | 42° 23′ 49″ |
" " commencement of the Copperas cobalt, pirites and alum bluffs |
S.W. | 27 | 80 | ||
To the Hot or burning Bluffs | S.W. | 30 | 10 | ||
" " White Stone River | 30 | N.E. | 8 | 918 | |
" " Petite Arc an old Mahar Village. at the mouth of little bow Creek |
15 | S.W. | 20 | 938 | |
" River Jacque or James River | 90 | N.E. | 12 | 950 | 42° 53′ 13″ |
" the calumet Bluffs (of mineral) | S.W. | 10 | 960 | ||
" Antient fortification Good mans 1sd. | S.W. | 16 | 976 | ||
" Plumb Creek | 12 | N.E. | 10 | 986 | |
" White paint Creek | 28 | S.W. | 994 | ||
" Quicurre or rapid river | 152 | S.W. | 6 | 1000 |
Names of remarkable places. | The width of rivers and creeks in yds. |
Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi |
Latitude North of important Places |
yards | Ms | Ms | |||
To the Poncar River & Village | 30 | S.W. | 10 | 1010 | |
" " Dome and village of Burrowing or barking Squirels |
S.W. | 20 | 1030 | ||
" " Island of Cedar | 45 | 1075 | |||
" White River (handsom Spot) | 300 | S.W. | 55 | 1130 | |
" the three Rivers of the Seioux pass opposit an Island |
35 &c. | N.E. | 22 | 1152 | |
" an Island in the comencmt. of the big bend |
N.E. | 20 | 1172 | ||
" upper part of the big bend, or "Grand de Tourte" the Gorge of which is 1 1/4 Ms. |
S.W. | 30 | 1202 | ||
" Tylors River | 35 | S.W. | 6 | 1208 | |
" Louisells [Loisel's] Fort on Cedar Island |
18 | 1226 | 44° 11′ 33″ | ||
" Teton River | 70 | S.W. | 37 | 1263 | |
" the upper of five old Ricara Villages reduced by the Sieoux & abandoned |
S.W. | 42 | 1305 | ||
" Chyenne River (place for an Estmt.) | 400 | S.W. | 5 | 1310 | 44° 19′ 36″ |
" an old ricara village on La-hoo-catts Island |
47 | 1357 | |||
" Otter Creek | 22 | S.W. | 35 | — | |
" Sar-war-kar-na River | 90 | S.W. | 40 | 1397 | 45° 35′ 5″ |
" We-tar-hoo River | 120 | S.W. | 25 | 1422 | |
" Maropa River | 25 | S.W. | 2 | — | |
To 1st. Ricaras Village on an Island | S.W. | 4 | |||
" 2d. Ricaras 3 Villages | S.W. | 4 | 1430 | ||
" the Stone Idol Creek | 18 | N.E. | 18 | ||
" " War-re-con-ne River | 35 | N.E. | 40 | 1488 | |
" Cannon Ball River | 140 | S.W. | 12 | 1500 | 46° 29′ 0″ |
" Shy-wish or Fish Crek | 28 | N.E. | 5 | ||
" Chesschetar River near 6 old Mandan Vgs |
38 | S.W. | 40 | 1540 | |
" Hunting Creek | 25 | S.W | 14 | ||
" the Old Ricara & Mandan Villages | S.W. | 40 | 1580 | ||
" Fort Mandan (wintering post of 1804 |
N.E. | 20 | 1600 | 47° 21′ 47″ |
[Here, in the journal written at Fort Mandan (Codex C),
Clark inserted the following table based upon Indian information.
—Ed.]
The Missouri and it's Subsidiary Streams higher up; are taken altogether
from information collected dureing the Winter 1804, 5 of
Indians &c.
near yds | about miles | miles | ||
To the Mouth of the little Missouri or E-mâh-tark, Ah-Zhah |
100 | S.W. | 100 | 1730 |
To Ok-hah, Âh-zhah, or the White Earth River | 100 | N.W. | 117 | 1847 |
To the Mouth of Mee, Ah-zhah or Yellow Stone River |
400 | S.W. | 3 | 1850 |
To the mouth of Ah-mâh-tâh, ru-shush-sher, or the River which Scolds at all others |
abt. 100 | North | 150 | 2000 |
To the Mouth of the Mah-tush; ah-zhah or the Muscle Shell River |
140 | South | 120 | 2120 |
" the Great Falls | — | — | 120 | 2240 |
" Mah-pat-puh, Ah-zhah or Medison River | 150 | N.W. | 15 | 2255 |
To the 1st. Chain of Rockey mountains about | — | — | 60 | 2315 |
To the 2nd. Chain of Rockey mountains about | — | — | 75 | 2390 |
To the three forks of the Missouri above the 3rd. Chain of mountains |
— | — | 75 | 2465 |
To the foot of the next mountain nearly West | — | N.W. | 50 | 2515 |
To a large River on the West of the mountain | — | — | 15 | 2530 |
The Yellow Stone River and it's Subsidiary Streams &c.
yards | miles | miles | ||
To the mouth of Oke-tar-pas-ah-ha | abt. 30 | S.E. | 75 | 1705 |
" War-rah-sash or Powder R | " 40 | S.E. | 75 | 1780 |
" Le-ze-ka or Tongu [e] River | " 100 | S.E. | 50 | 1830 |
" Mar-shas-kap River | " 40 | S.E. | 100 | 1930 |
" Little Wolf mountain Creek | " 20 | N.W. | 55 | 1985 |
" Ark tar-ha River | " 30 | S.E. | 70 | 2055 |
" Ar-sar-ta or Bighorn R | " 150 | S.E. | 75 | 2130 |
" To the Rockey or Shineing Mountains | — | N.W. | 200 | 2330 |
From Fort Mandan] | Width in Yards. |
Side on which they are situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi |
Latitudes & remarks. &c. |
To Mandan Villages 1 on each Side |
4 | 1604 | |||
" Knife river on which the two Minetarre and the Mahar has villages are Situated near the mouth |
80 | S.W. | 2 | 1606 | |
" the Island | 11 | 1617 | small | ||
" Menatarras Wintering Village Std. |
— | 13 1/2 | — | abandoned | |
" " Miry River on Stard side |
10 | N.E. | 15 | 1633 | bold stream |
" an Island in the little bason | 28 | small | |||
" Little Missouri River | 134 | S.W. | 29 | 1690 | 47°. 31′. 26″.2. N. |
" the Wild onion Creek | 16 | N.E. | 12 | 1702 | a little water |
" " Goose egg Lake | 300 | N.E. | 9 | 1711 | Small |
" " Shabonos Creek | 20 | S.W. | 16 | 1727 | 47°. 47′ 16″ 3/10 N. |
" " Goat pen Creek | 20 | N.E. | 16 | 1743 | at this place Mouse river approaches near the Missouri |
" " Halls Strand Lake & Creek | N.E. | 47 | 1790 | extream N. point | |
" " White earth River | 60 | N.E. | 50 | 1840 | Still & deep |
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone River | 858 | S.W. | 40 | 1880 | 48°. -00′-00″ N. |
to Marthys River | 50 | N.E. | 60 | 1940 | High Coloured |
" Porcupine River | 112 | N.E. | 50 | 1990 | Some timber on it |
To 2000 Mile Creek | 30 | S.W. | 1993 | no water at pest. | |
To Indian Fort Creek dry | — | S.W. | 10 | 2003 | a fort of logs |
" the little Dry Creek | 25 | S.W. | 27 | 2030 | no water in it |
" Lack water Creek | 25 | N.E. | 1 1/2 | 2031 1/2 | d°. d°. d°. d°. |
" the Big Dry Creek | 100 | S.W. | 7 1/2 | 2039 | d°. d°. d°. d°. |
" " Little Dry River | 200 | S.W. | 6 | 2045 | d°. d°. d°. d°. |
" " Gulf in a Stard. Bend | 32 | 2077 | 47° 36′ 11″ | ||
to Milk River | 150 | N.E. | 13 | 2090 | Color of tea |
" Big Dry River | 400 | S.W. | 25 | 2115 | no water runing |
" Werners Run | 10 | N.E. | 9 | 2124 | 47°. 25′–33″ 1/10. |
" Pine Creek | 20 | N.E. | 36 | 2160 | Saw 1st pine |
" Gibsons River | 35 | N.E. | 17 | 2177 | a little running watr. |
" Brown Bear defeated Creek | 40 | S.W. | 12 | 2189 | d° d° d° |
" Brattens River | 100 | N.E. | 24 | 2213 | 47°. 13′ 51″ N. |
" Burnt Lodge Creek | 50 | S.W. | 6 | 2219 | no water running |
" Wisers Creek | 40 | N.E. | 14 | 2233 | a little running W. |
" Blowingfly Creek | 25 | S.W. | 32 | 2265 | d° d° d° |
" Muscle Shell River | 110 | S.W. | 5 | 2270 | 47° 0′ 24.6″ |
" Grouse Creek | 20 | N.E. | 30 | 2300 | no running water |
" Teapot Creek | 15 | N.E. | 8 | 2308 | d° d°. d°. |
" North Mountain Creek | 30 | N.E. | 28 | 2336 | running water |
" South Mountain Creek | 30 | S.W. | 18 | 2354 | d°. d°. |
" Ibex Island | 15 | 2369 | Killed the 1st big horn |
||
" Goodriches Island | 9 | 2378 |
From Fort Mandan] | Width in Yards. |
Side on which they are situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi |
Latitudes & remarks, &c. |
To Windsers Creek | 30 | N.E. | 7 | 2385 | some water runs |
" Softshell turtle Creek | 25 | N.E. | 6 | 2391 | d° d° d° |
" Elk rapid (Swift water) | 9 | 2400 | {Doe Elk & fawn swam over |
||
" Thompsons Creek | 28 | N.E. | 27 1/2 | 2427 1/2 | {vally above Mts. bold stream |
" Bull Creek | 25 | S.W. | 8 1/2 | 2436 | {a Buffalow crossed a canoe & then charged through camp |
" Judieths River Big horn | 100 | S.W. | 3 | 2439 | killed 3 big horns |
" Vally Creek | 20 | N.E | 1 | 2440 | thro a vally N. |
" Ash rapid (swift water) | 3 | 2443 | Some Ash trees. | ||
" Slaughter River | 40 | S.W. | 11 | 2454 | {a great n° of buffalow drove down a clift and dashed to pieces on Std. I speared a wolf. |
" the Stone Wall Creek above those emence nateral walls |
30 | N.E. | 26 | 2480 | curious appearance of walls below |
" Maria's River | 186 | N.E. | 41 | 2521 | 47° 25′ 17.2 N. |
" Snow River | 50 | S.W. | 19 | 2540 | Mts. Covd. with Snow head of this river |
" Shields River | 35 | S.W. | 28 | 2568 | bold Stream |
" the foot of the enterance of portage River 5 Miles below the Great falls |
45 | S.W. | 7 | 2575 | 47° 8′ 4″ 9/10 N. |
[From this point the final draft follows the land route—
Lewis and Clark's pass to the Kooskooskee. The table here
inserted follows the actual route going out and is taken from
both Codex I and Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4.—Ed.]
Names of remarkable places. | [Distance] from one place to another |
Distance to the mouth of Missouri |
Latitudes & remarks, &c. |
to Portage River Lard. Side 55 | 1 | 2576 | rapid & Sholey |
to the first great fall of 87 feet pitch | 6 | 2582 | Continual Spray |
to the Second fall of 19 feet pitch | 3 1/2 | — | or 1718 poles |
to the Grand Cascade of 47 feet 8 In. pitch | 1/2 | — | = 102 poles |
to the upper fall of 26.5 pitch total fall above portg. about 362 feet |
2 3/4 | 2590 1/2 | = 881 poles |
to Medicine River Std. 137 | 3 3/4 | 2594 1/4 | 1196 poles |
Names of remarkable places. | [Distance] from one place to another |
Distance to the mouth of Missouri |
Latitudes & remarks, &c. |
to the head of the Portage on the Ld. at the White Bear Islands, the land portage 18 miles thro. a plain |
3 | 2597 1/4 | {972 poles 47°. 3′ 33″ N. |
to Smith's River Lard. 80 | 30 3/4 | 2628 | bold current & Vally. |
to the Rockey Mountains at Pine Island} rapid |
40 1/4 | 2668 1/4 | 46°. 42′ 14″ 7/10 |
to Dearbourne's River Std. 80 | 8 3/4 | 2676 | bold current & in Mtn. |
to Gun brook Ld. 10 | 2 | 2678 | found a fusee |
to Ordways Creek Std 25 | 10 | 2688 | bold Current V[al]ly |
to the Great gate of the rocky Mounts. river confined in a narrow Chanel between clifts 10 or 1200 feet high |
24 | 2712 | {W. Clark crossed Sd. Mt. |
to Potts' s Vally Creek Std. bold | 6 | 2718 | Wide Vally N. |
to Pryors Vally River Std. 28 | 20 | 2738 | Latd. 46°. 10′ 32″ 9/10 N bold Current and wide extensive Vally saw a smoke NW |
to White Earth Creek Std. 15 | 30 | 2768 | bold |
to WhiteHouse Creek Lard. bold | 11 | 2779 | Some timber on it |
to Yorks 8 Islands | 23 | 2802 | {W. C. on land York tired |
to Gass's Vally Creek Std. 25 | 14 | 2816 | bold & 3 forks |
to the Little Gate of the Mountain | 5 | 2821 | we saw a horse |
to Howards Creek Lard. bold | 6 | 2827 | {Mistook to opening of the creek for the[17] |
{W. C. return to the party very sick. |
|||
to the Three Forks of Missouri at Jefferson, Maddison & Gallitins rivers. Gallitins on Ld. and 70 Yds. wide Maddeson 90 yds. wide & Jeffersons 90 yds. wide and is the Std. fork |
21 | 2848 | 45°. 22′ 34″. N |
Up Jeffersons River | |||
to Philosophy River on Ld. side 30 | 15 | 2863 | bold rapid full of beaver |
to the Narrows of the 3d. Mountn. | 17 | 2880 | M. L. go a head |
to Frasures Creek & rapid Ld. bold | 8 | 2888 | bad rapid |
to R. Field's Vally Creek Sd. 28 | 4 | 2892 | R. F. killed 4 deer |
to Wisdom River Std. 40 | 55 | 2947 | 45°. 2′ 21″ 6/10 N |
to Philanthrophy River Ld. 30 | 12 | 2959 | river crooked |
to Beaver head Clift Stad. | 34 | 2993 | d° d° |
to Mc.Neals Creek Ld. 17 | 37 | 3030 | bold stream |
to the 4th. Gap of the Mountain | 28 | 3058 | {Saw Several rattle snakes |
to Willards Creek Std. bold | 6 | 3064 | {Willard discovered this the day before we got to it. |
to a rapid at the Narrows of 5th. Mtn. | 21 | 3085 | {a bad rapid for half a mile |
Names of remarkable places. | [Distance] from one place to another |
Distance to the mouth of Missouri |
Latitudes & remarks, &c. |
to the East Fork of Jeffersons river at which} place left the canoes and commen[c]ed a portage |
11 | 3096 | 44°. 35' 28″ 1/10 |
to the 3 forks in Snake Indian cove | 15 | 3111 | {W. C. Camp with Inds. |
to the head Spring of Jeffersons river in} a Dividing ridge of the rock[y] M. |
13 | 3124 | meet an Ind. on a Mule |
to East fork of Lewis's river the S.E.} branch of the Columbia at the So so nee or Snake indian incampment in Lodges made of bushes at which place the river is 36 yds |
10 | 3134 | 44°. 23′ 22″ 7/10 |
to the main fork of Lewis'es River Ld. 90 | 18 | 3152 | from the South East |
to Salmon Creek Std. Side bold | 9 | 3161 | Shields killed a salmon |
to Tower run Std. small | 14 | 3175 | leave Lewis's river |
Up tower run to the forks of the road | 4 | 3179 | {road leaves the river to the right |
Across the hills. To fish Creek six miles} north of it's mouth 25 |
20 | 3199 | hilly road |
Up Fish creek to the forks of the road &} Creek |
7 1/2 | 3206 1/2 | {leave the road to the right |
to the Top of a Snow Mountain at the} head of the west fork of fish creek |
21 1/2 | 3228 | pilot lost his way |
to Clark's River at a Village of 33 tents} of Flathead |
12 | 3240 | River from right |
Down Clark's River | |||
to flour Camp Creek Ld. bold | 7 | 3247 | over a mountn. |
to Horse Vally Creek from the right | 26 | 3273 | bold stream |
to Scattered Creek from the right passing} through Hors[e] Vally |
22 | 3295 | 46°. 41′–38″.9 |
to Travellers rest Creek Ld. 30 | 21 | 3316 | 46°. 48' 28″. 8/10 |
passing up Travellers rest Creek to the} forks of the road and Creek Sd. |
11 | 3327 | {Here we fall into the Portage from the Falls of the Missouri across the Mountains road to our right |
to the Hot Springs on the right | 14 | 3341 | nearly boiling |
to the Glades on the Divinding Mt. | 10 | 3351 | |
to the forks of Glade Creek | 6 | 3357 | {a fork from the North we crossed to S.E. Side |
to Koos-koos-ke river at the enterance of} Glade Creek |
9 | 3366 | Killed and eate a Coalt |
to the foot of the Great Mountains | 6 | 3372 | {open Hilly pine country |
Across the Great Rocky Mountains | |||
to the top of a Mountain Covered with} Snow the 15th. of Sepr. a road comes in from the right on the mountain |
8 | 3380 | Snow high ruged |
Names of remarkable places. | [Distance] from one place to another |
Distance to the mouth of Missouri |
Latitudes & remarks, &c. |
to a branch running to the right on M | 13 | 3393 | {Snowed all day Eate a coalt |
to a branch running to the left | 10 | 3403 | Eat a Coalt |
to Hungary Creek from the right | 32 | Hills covered with snow | |
to the forks of Collins's Creek from the right | 26 | Killed a Horse | |
to the foot of the Rocky Mountains on} the West side |
8 | 3469 | open pine country |
to the Cho-pun-nish Village | 6 | seatd. in a small prarie | |
to Koos-koos-ke River at the Mouth of} Village Creek from the right |
17 | about 120 yds. wide | |
to Rock dam Creek Stard. 20 yds | 3 | [3495] | damed by rocks |
[At this point the navigation by water was again resumed,
and our table hereafter follows the final draft. The two tables
of distances from the Mississippi differ according to the varying
length of the routes—direct and actual.—Ed.]
Remarkable places decending the Columbia &c. &c. |
width of the rivers and Creeks |
the Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance Decending the Columbia |
Distance from the Mississippi [direct route] |
Distance from the Mississippi [actual route] |
Latitude Remarks &c. |
yds | MS. | MS. | Miles | ||||
To the enterance of Rock} dam Creek |
20 | N. | 8 | 8 | 2923 | 3495 | |
" " Chopunnish River | 120 | N. | 5 | 13 | 2928 | 3500 | 46° 34′ 56.2″ |
" Canister run | — | — | 19 | — | — | — | Passed 16 rapids |
" " Colters Creek | 35 | N. | 18 | 50 | 2978 | 3537 | passed 14 rapids |
" Lewis' s River at the} enterance of the Kooskooske river |
200 | S. | 23 | 73 | 2988 | 3560 | 46° 29' 21.7″ |
" the Swet house Village} & run |
S. | 7 | 80 | 3567 | Passed 1 rapid | ||
" " Pilots Village | N. | 11 | 91 | 3006 | 3578 | Passed 4 rapids | |
" a Village of Mat Lodges | N. | 13 | — | — | 3591 | " 3 " | |
" " Ki-moo-e-nimm Creek | 20 | S. | 35 | 139 | 3626 | " 8 " | |
" Drewyers river below} the Narrows of Lewis's R 2 1/2 miles & 30 yds wide |
30 | N. | 5 | 144 | 3059 | 3631 | " 1 " |
" the Cave rapid (Canoe} Sunk) |
28 | 172 | 3659 | passed 5 rapids | |||
" the Bason rapid. (bad) | 34 | 206 | 3121 | 3693 | " 8 " | ||
" " Discharge Rapid} (bad) |
14 | 220 | 3135 | 3707 | " 4 " |
Remarkable places decending the Columbia &c. &c. |
Width of the rivers and Creeks |
the Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance Decending the Columbia |
Distance from the Mississippi [direct route] |
Distance from the Mississippi [actual route] |
Latitude Remarks &c. |
yds | MS. | MS. | Miles | ||||
To Columbia at the mouth} of Lewis' s river from the East |
S.E. | 7 | 227 | 3142 | 3714 | 46° 15′ 13.9″ | |
" Wallarwallars River} passd. 11 large mat Lodges of that nation |
40 | S.E | 16 | 243 | 3158 | 3730 | {passed 2 rapids one bad. hills about 200 feet. |
" Muscleshell Rapid (bad) passed 33 mat lodges of the Wallar-wallars |
25 | 268 | 3183 | 3755 | {passed 2 rapids Low Cty C[om]. m[ences on]Ld. |
||
" Pillacon Rapid.} passed 48 lodges of the Pishquitpahs nation |
N. | 22 | 290 | 3205 | 3777 | {low country on both sides of R |
|
" 21 lodges of the wah-} howpum nation residing on three Islands at the commencement of the high country |
N. | 18 | 308 | 3223 | 3795 | {passed 2 rapids (horse secrfised to the dead) |
|
" 8 Lodges of the wah-} howpums at short rapid |
N. | 27 | 335 | 3250 | 3820 | passed 2 rapids | |
" the Short Rapid | — | — | 6 | — | — | 3826 | " 1 " |
" Rocky Rapid. 9} lodges of the Same nation |
N. | 7 | 348 | 3263 | 3833 | " 1 " | |
" River La Page, bad rapid | 40 | S. | 9 | 357 | 3272 | 3842 | " 2 " |
" 27 lodges of the Enes-} her nation at fish tack rapid |
N. | 10. | 367 | 3282 | 3852 | {Campd. passed 1 rapid |
|
" Towannahiooks River | 180 | S. | 8 | 375 | 3290 | 3860 | {we all viewed it above its mouth |
" The Great Falls or} the Columbia river of 37 ft. 8 Ins. near which there are 40 Mat lodges of the Enesher Nation |
N. | 4 | 379 | 3294 | 3864 | 45° 42′ 57.3″ | |
The Short narrows 45} yds. wide |
2 | 381 | 3296 | passed 1 rapid | |||
" Skillute Village of 21} large wood houses at the long narrows from 50 to 100 yds. wide |
N. | 4 | 385 | 3300 | 3870 | 40° 1′ ″[18] | |
" Chilluckitequaw Vil-} lage of 8 large wood nouses |
N. | 14 | 399 | 3314 | 3884 | bought Dogs |
Remarkable places decending the Columbia &c. &c. |
width of the rivers and Creeks |
the Side on which they are situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance Decending the columbia |
Distance from the mississippi [direct route] |
Distance from the mississippi [actual route] |
Latitude Remarks &c. |
yds | MS. | MS. | Miles | ||||
To Cataract river a few} miles below a Village of 7 houses and immediately above one of 11 Houses of the Chilluckittequaw nation |
60 | N. | 10 | 409 | 3324 | 3894 | {10 nations live up this river. no fish |
"Sepulchre Rock, op-} posite to a Village of Hs. of Chilluckitteqs |
N. | 4 | 413 | 3328 | |||
"River Labeich oppo-} site to 26 houses of the Smackshop Nation, Houses scattered on the N. Side each side |
46 | S. | 9 | 422 | 3337 | 3907 | {the first houses we have seen on the south side |
"Little Lake Canoe} Creek 3 houses of the Smackshop nation |
28 | N. | 10 | 432 | 3347 | 3917 | {saw Several Canoes encamped |
"Cruzatts River | 60 | N. | 12 | 444 | 3359 | 3929 | {stumps out from shore some dists. |
"The Grand Rapid just} below the village of the Yehuh tribe of the Shahala Nation of 14 wood houses |
[*]N | 6 | 450 | 3365 | 3935 | 45° 44′ 3.8″ | |
"Clahclellah Village of} the Shahala nation, near the foot of the rapids. 7 Houses |
N. | 6 | 456 | 3371 | |||
"Wahclellar Village of} the Shahala Nation 23 houses just below the entrance of the beacon rock Creek[19] |
N. | 6 | 462 | 3377 | {This Beaten rock rises from a leavel bottom near the R |
||
Tide Water. | |||||||
"Phoca Rock in the} river 60 feet above water 100 foot high |
11 | 473 | 3388 | 3958 | {This rock is near the middle of the river Saw Seal's |
Remarkable places decending the Columbia &c. &c. |
width of the rivers and Creeks |
the side on which they are Situated |
Distance from on place to another |
Distance Decending the Columbia |
Distance from the Mississippi [direct route] |
Distance from the Mississippi [actual route] |
Latitude Remarks &c. |
yds | Ms. | Ms. | Miles | ||||
To the Commencement of} the Columbian Vally, wide & beautiful |
— | — | 6 | — | — | 3964 | rich & extensive |
" Quicksand River | 120 | S. | 3 | 482 | 3397 | 3967 | shallow & Spreads over a wide bar |
" Seal River opsd. upper pt. of white brant Isld. |
80 | N. | 3 | 485 | 3970 | {emence No. of brant |
|
" Nechacokee village} opposite to the dimond Island |
S. | 4 | 489 | 3974 | {2 large Ponds on this Island. |
||
" White goose Isld. opsd.} Lowr. pt. |
— | — | 6 | — | — | 3980 | {I sho[t] white gees |
" Shahala Village of 25 temperary houses |
S. | 6 | 501 | 3416 | 3986 | grass houses &c. | |
" the head of image Canoe Isld. |
— | — | 4 | — | — | 3990 | {met 2 canoes on which was images |
" Multnomah River | 500 | S. | 10 | 515 | 3430 | 4000 | Ind. stold. Tomhk |
" Multnomah Village} [*]at narrow part of the Columbia |
S. | 6 | 521 | — | 4006 | {Campd. ops. a No. of noisey fowls |
|
" Quathlahpohtle Vil-} lage at the lower Point of an Island near the Stard. Shore |
N. | 8 | 529 | 4014 | {Inds. Vist. us in 7 canoes |
||
" Cahwahnakiooks River | 200 | N. | 1 | 530 | 3445 | 4015 | |
" the lower Point of} Wappato Island |
S. | 1 | — | — | 4016 | a Chant. $1/4 Mt. wide |
|
" Cathlahaws Creek and} Village |
18 | N. | 3 | 540 | 3455 | 4025 | {I thought was a 1d. |
" Lower extremity of Elallah or deer Island |
S. | 6 | 546 | — | 4031 | {Indian name. I Seen 16 snakes |
|
" the Narrows of} the Mountain and lower part of the Columbian vally |
7 | 4038 | {camped rained. Killed a Pheasant. |
||||
" Coweliske River} about the entrance and up this river the Skillute nation reside |
150 | N. | 6 | 559 | 3474 | 4044 | Ind. s. acct. |
" Fannys Island & bottom | S. | 16 | 575 | 3490 | 4060 | {bottom on the Ld. is wide |
|
" the Sea Otter Island | 12 | 587 | 3502 | 4072 | toggy | ||
" " Upper Village of} the Warkiacums Nation |
N. | 6 | 593 | 3502 | 4078 | {Petticoat women at this village |
|
" the lower Village of the Warkiacum Nation of 7 houses Under a high hill. |
N | 9 | 4087 | {landed a few M[inutes] bought a dog. |
From the Waukiacum Upper Village decending the Columbia on the South Side
Remarkable places decending the Columbia &c. &c. |
the Side on which they are Situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance Decending the Columbia |
Distance from the Mississippi [direct route] |
Distance from the Mississippi [actual route] |
Latitude Remarks &c. |
Ms. | Ms. | Miles | ||||
To Point Samuel on Stard Side | 6 | 4094 | high land | |||
To the Cath.lah-mâh Town of} 9 houses South of the Seal Islands |
8 | 4102 | on high land | |||
To Point William opposit the Shallow Bay |
10 | 4111 | point in this form |
To Point Meriwether above} Meriwethers Bay |
S. | 10 | 626 | 3541 | 4121 | 3 rivers mouth |
" Fort Clatsop on the West} Side of and 3 miles up the Netul river from Meriwether bay and Seven miles East from nearest part of the Sea coast. at this fort Capt. M Lewis and Capt. Wm. Clark wintered in the winter 1805–6 |
S | 7 | — | — | 4128 | |
" Clat-Sop Village on the low} point of Meriwethers Bay and 7 miles N W of Fort Clatsop |
S. | 10 | 634 | 3529 | 4138 | large wood houses |
" Point Adams at the enter-} ance of Columbia into the Pacific ocean or Great South Sea in Latitude 46° 15′ North and Longtd. 124° 57′ West from Greenwitch |
S. | 6 | 640 | 3555 | 4144 | low land[20] |
Remarkable Places decending the Columbia &c. &c. |
the Side on which they are situated |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance Decending the Columbia |
Distance from the Mississippi (direct route) |
Distance from the Mississippi (actual route) |
Latitude Remarks &c. |
[The Northern Shore of the River] | Ms. | Ms. | Miles | |||
To the Shallow bay or nitch on} the Stard. side 5m. Deep |
16 | 41031 | {this bay is about 5m. deep and contains great numbers of fow[l]s. |
|||
To Point Distress | N | 16 | — | — | 4119 | lay 6 days |
to Station Camp near an old Chin-} nook Village of 36 houses |
N. | 2 | — | — | 4121 | delayed 10 days |
to Cape Disapointment at the En-} terance of the Columbia river into the Great Pacific Ocean in Latd. 46° 19[21] . 11″ 1/10 N. and Longitude 124 57′. 0–W. |
N | 11 | — | — | 4132 | 46° 19′ 11.1″ |
On the Sea Coast to the N N W of Cape Disapointment
To the Comencement of a Sandy} Coast & low land |
5 | W. C. Saw the coast much futher |
Point Lewis High land N. of the} Chinnook Villages is about |
15 | |
to the Chiltz Nation. about | 6 | Indian information |
to the Cla-moi-to-micks Tribe along} the N W Coast |
{Indian account taken at different times |
|
to Potoashi Tribe reside to the N} West along the Coast |
||
to the Quinielts reside from the} Potoash N W along the same coast about Cape Sh[o]alwater noumerous |
15 | |
to Qui eet to reside from the Quinielts} N W along the coast |
||
to Chil-late-ho-kle reside from Quieet-} so N W along same coast about |
19 | |
to Quinechart verry noumerous reside} from the Chillatehokle N W along the same coast and on the slashes and creeks |
60 | Note. 50 mile of the above from the information of Indians. |
Pailsh reside betwen the Potoash and} Quinelt on the same coast. |
On the sea coaste to the S. S. E.
From point Adams | Distances | Latitude, Remarks &c. | |
to Ne-er-ca-war-re-ca Creek &} old Clatsop village |
8 | 4152 | 3 houses remain |
to the enterance of Clât.sop river} 85 yards wide at 3 houses remains of an old Vilg. |
9 | 4161 | 3 old towns |
to the Salt works at the foot of} a mountain near 4 houses |
2 | 4163 | 2 old towns & Canoe vaults |
to the most projected part of the} Mountain of Clark' s point of view near 1000 feet above the leavel of the Sea imediately under it |
7 | 4170 | one rock out steep assent |
to an old Kil-â-mox Village | 3 | 4173 | abandoned No. of rocks out |
to the Mouth of E-co-la or whale} Creek 35 yds. wide, and 4 huts of Kil-a-mox boiling whale blubber |
6 | 4179 | High rugid rocks out |
to 6 huts of Kil-â-mox boiling} blubber |
2 | 4181 | {this was the extent of Capt. Clarks rout on this coast |
to the Great Kil-â-mox Town at} the enterance of Ni-ê-lee Creek |
20 | 4201 | Inds. ac. a sand bar out |
to Kil-har-hurst's Town of Kil-} â-mox at the Enterance Kilamox Bay |
about 5 miles |
a rock in entrs. | |
to Kil-Aar-nar's town of Kil-a-} mox on the Bay at the mouth of a Creek |
2 | on the bay | |
to Chish-ucks town of Kil-â-mox at the Enterance of Kilamox river, which is about 100 yds 2 houses up this R. |
2 | heads near Columbia | |
to Tow-er-quot-tons Creek &} Town |
2 | ||
to Chuck-tins Town and Creek at} the bottom of the Bay (which I call Kilamox Bay) |
2 | ||
Miles | 70 |
Note ☞30 miles of this course is from the information of Indians,
collected from different persons. They further inform me that
the Kil â mox have two Small villages on the Kil á mox river, it is very
rapid without any purpindicular falls, that nation pass across from the
head of this little river to the Columbian Vally, which is at no great
Distance from its head at Wappato Island, and pass down the Chock-âh'
lil'.com or Columbia river with the Wappato they purchase
Notes, from the Mouth of Columbia. | ||||
To the Wappato Island, center is | S. | 20°. E | 108 | miles |
To quick Sand river is | S. | 32°. E | 121 | " |
To the grand rapids is | S. | 47°. E | 128 | " |
to the Great falls is | S. | 65°. E. | 172 | " |
to the Mouth of Lewis's river | East | 240 | " | |
From the Mouth of Lewis'es river to the Mouth of Kooskooske is |
N. | 52°. E | 96 | Miles |
to the Mouth of Cho-pun-nich R} at the Canoe Camp is |
East | 144 | Miles | |
to the longshute or Narrows above | N. | 28°. E. | 55 | Mile |
[Lewis and Clark's Pass][22]
Leaveing the Missouri below the Falls and passing by Land to the
Navagable Waters of the Columbia River
Names of remarkable places | Width of the rivers & Creeks |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance from the falls of Missouri |
Distance from the Mississippi |
yd. | Ms. | Ms. | Miles | |
To the enterance of Medicine River passed} 1st. pitch of 87 feet, 2d. of 19 feet, 3d. of 47 feet 8 inches, and 4th. of 26 feet 5 inches added to the rapids makes a fall of 362 feet |
137 | 18 | 18 | 2593 |
To fort Mountain passing through the plains} between Medicine river and the Missouri near the Missouri up the N. Side of the Missouri to the 1st. bend above the entrance of Smiths river |
15 | 33 | 2608 | |
To the Rocky Mountains at a Gap on the} ridge which divites the waters of the Missouri from those of the Columbia passing the N. pt. of a Mtn. and then crossing Dearborns river |
35 | 68 | 2643 | |
To a fork of Cohohlarishkit river from the} N. passed 4 Creeks from N |
45 | 40 | 108 | 2683 |
To Seamons Creek from the N | 20 | 7 | 115 | |
To Werners Creek N | 35 | 10 | 125 | 2700 |
" the East fork of Clarks river at the en-} terance of Cohohlarishkit R |
120 | 30 | 155 | 2730 |
" Clarks River at the forks | 150 | 12 | 167 | 2742 |
" Travellers rest Creek on the west Side} of Clarks river above the forks |
25 | 5 | 172 | 2747 |
Names of remarkable places | Width of the rivers & Creeks |
Distance from one place to another |
Distance from the falls of Missouri |
Distance from the Mississippi |
yd. | Ms. | Ms. | Miles | |
To the Forks of Travellers rest Creek at a} right hand road |
10 | 18 | 190 | |
" the Hot Springs, on the N. side of the} Creek |
3 | 13 | 203 | 2778 |
" "Quawmash glades passing the head} of the creek to a branch of Kooskooske River |
7 | 210 | ||
To the North branch of Kooskooske river,} a left hand road leads off at 5 Ms. |
7 | 217 | ||
To the junction of the roads on the top of} a Snowey Mountain crossed a fork of Flathead R. at 2 Ms the left hand road passing by a fishery |
10 | 227 | 2802 | |
From the forks of the road on the Top of the Snow Mountains (from the left) |
||||
To Hungary Creek from the right passing} on a Dividing Mounteing between the Flathead and Chopunish passing on deep Snow except on two places which are open with a South exposure at 8 & 36 Miles |
54 | 281 | 2856 | |
[23] To a Glade up Hungary Creek | 6 | 287 | ||
To a Glade on a Small branch of d° | 8 | 295 | ||
To a Glade on Fish Creek | 10 | 9 | 304 | |
" Collins's Creek | 25 | 13 | 317 | |
" Quawmash flatts | 11 | 328 | 2903 | |
" Kooskooske or Flathead River in a pine} Country |
120 | 12 | 340 | 2915. |
Note in passing from the falls of Missouri across the Rocky Mountains
to the forks of Kooskooske, the nearest navagable waters of the
Columbia you have 200 miles of Good road to Hot Springs on Clarks
river; 140 miles of high Steep ruged mountain 60 miles of which is
covered from 2 to 8 feet deep with Snow the last of June, 1806 Latd. of
the falls of Missouri 47°. 8′ 4″ North. Clarks river forks Latd. 46°. 48′ 0″
North. Kooskooskia forks Latd. 46° 34′ 0′ North.
[24]
The rout by which we went out by the way of the Missouri to it's
Clarks river and down that to the enterance of travellers rest Creek
where all the roads from different routs come together thence across
the ruged part of the rocky Mountains to the Navagable branches of
the Columbia 398 Miles. thence down that river 640 miles to the
Pacific Ocean makeing a Total distance of 4134 miles. On our return
in 1806 from Travellers rest Creek directly to the falls of the Missouri
River Shortens the distance about 579 miles, and a much better rout,
reduceing the distance from Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean to 3555
miles. 25 75 miles of this distance is up the Missouri to the Falls
of that river from thence passing through the plains and across the
Rocky Mountains to the navagable part of Kooskooske river a branch
of the Columbia 340 miles, 200 miles of which is a good road, 140
miles over a tremendious Mountain Steep and broken, 60 miles of which
is covered Several feet deep with Snow on which we passed the last of
June; from the navagable part of the Kooskooske we decended that
rapid river 73 miles to its enterance into Lewis's river and down that
river 154 miles to the Columbia and down that river 413 Miles to [its]
enterance into the Pacific Ocian, about 180 miles of this distance is
tide water. passed several bad rapids and narrows and one considerable
fall 268 miles above the enterance of this river of 37 feet 8 inches the
Total distance decending the Columbian waters 640 miles makeing a
total of 3555 miles on the most direct rout from the Mississippi at the
mouth of the Missouri to the pacific Ocean.
The fur trade may be carried on from the heads of the Missouri to
the mouth of Columbia much cheaper than by any rout by which it can
be conveyed to the East indias. form an establishment on the River
Rochejhone for the reception of the furs of that river & South and one
at Marias river below the great falls of Missouri. the Shoshones within
the rocky mountains the Tushepaws on Clarks river and maney nations
west of the Rocky mountains would visit those establishments from
whome horses might be got on the most reasonable terms for the purpose
of packing the furs across those mountains which may be passed
from the 20th. of June untill the last of September.
You may leave those establishments on the Missouri 15 or 20 of
June and arive on the Kooskooske river between the 1st. & 5th. of July.
from that time you have untill the middle of September to decend the
River and return to the mountains in time to pass them before the Snow
becomes too Deep to cross them.
[The Yellowstone River.]
A Sumary Statement of the Rivers, Creeks, and the most remarkable
places assending the River Rochejhone, their distances from each other
and from the Missouri as estimated by me in 1806 also the Total distances
from the Mississippi.
Names of Places &c. | the Side on which they are Situated |
Width of the rivers and Creeks in yards |
Distances from one place to another in miles |
Distances from the Missouri assending |
Computed Distances from the Mississippi assending |
Side | yds. | Ms. | Ms. | Total Ms. | |
from Missouri up the River Rochejhone | 1888 | ||||
To the enterance of Jos. Fields River | S. E. | 35 | 8 | 8 | 1896 |
" " yallow rock (river narrow) | S E | 6 | 14 | ||
" " Buffalow Crossings a low plain east side |
33 | 47 | |||
" " Ibex River | S. E. | 30 | 31 | 78 | 1966 |
" " Samuels Creek | N. W. | 30 | 12 | 90 | |
" " Buffalow Creek | N W | 30 | 18 | 108 | |
" " Pine Brook | S. E. | 20 | 29 | 137 | |
" " Cat fish Creek | S. E. | 20 | 10 | 147 | |
" " Gibson River | S. E. | 60 | 8 | 155 | 2043 |
" " Oak-tar-pon-er stone Coal River | S E | 40 | 18 | 173 | 2061 |
" " Shabonos River | N. W. | 100 | 7 | 188 | 2068 |
" " Wolf rapid (not bad) | 12 | 192 | 2080 | ||
" " Wah-har-sop, redstone River | S. E. | 100 | 3 | 195 | 2083 |
" " Yorks dry river | N. W. | 88 | 7 | 202 | 2090 |
" " Yellow Bear rapids (not bad) | 1 | 203 | 2091 | ||
" " Buffalow Shoals (not bad) | 20 | 223 | 2111 | ||
" " Dry River | N. W. | 100 | 9 | 232 | |
" " Lezeka or Tongue River | S. E. | 150 | 11 | 243 | 2131 |
" " Turtle Creek | S. E. | 40 | 20 | 263 | |
" " Mar-Shas-kap River | S. E. | 25 | 22 | 185 | 2173 |
" " Wood Brook | S. E. | 30 | 16 | 301 | |
" " upper Stone Coal Bluffs | S. E. | 6 | 307 | 2195 | |
" " Little Horn River | S. E. | 100 | 11 | 318 | 2206 |
" " Table River | N. W. | 70 | 2 | 320 | |
" " Little Wolf River | N. W. | 80 | 30 | 350 | |
" " Chimney Bluffs | N. W. | 28 | 368 | ||
" " White Creek | N. W. | 30 | 17 | 385 | |
" " Laabeechs River | S. E. | 60 | 7 | 392 | 2281 |
" " Windsers River | N. W. | 50 | 26 | 418 | 2307 |
" " Elk river | N. W. | 40 | 4 | 422 | |
" " Big horn River | S. E. | 220 | 15 | 437 | 2326 |
" " Island Brook | N. W. | 16 | 453 | ||
" " White Clifts(below the pine hills) | N. W. | 27 | 480 | ||
" " Halls River | N. W. | 40 | 9 | 489 | 2378 |
" " Shannons river from which place party decended in Buffalow Skin Canoes |
S. E. | 22 | 10 | 499 | 2388 |
Names of Places &c. | the Side on which they are Situated |
Width of the rivers and Creeks in yards |
Distances from one place to another in miles |
Distances from the Missouri assending |
Computed Distances from the Mississippi assending |
Side | yds. | Ms. | Ms. | Total Ms. | |
To the Pompeys Tower 200 feet high & 400 yds. around in an open bottom |
S. E. | 9 | 508 | 2397 | |
" " Tumbling Bluff | N. W. | 12 | 520 | ||
" " Big Dry brook | N. W. | 60 | 16 | 536 | |
" " Pryors Creek in the big bend | S. E. | 25 | 10 | 546 | 2435 |
" " Rock Creek | N. W. | 18 | 5 | 551 | |
" " Pryors River | S. E. | 35 | 6 | 557 | 2446 |
" " Yellow Clifts | S. E. | 9 | 566 | ||
" " Horse Creek | S. E. | 20 | 10 | 576 | |
" Clarks fork (the lodge where all dance) |
S. E. | 150 | 23 | 599 | 2487 |
" " Black bluffs opposit to the place ☞Capt. C. built 2 Canoes to ded. |
S. E. | 27 | 626 | 2514 | |
" " Bluffs above the extencive open bottoms on the N W Side |
N. W. | 26 | 652 | ||
" " Rose Bud river | S. E. | 40 | 6 | 658 | 2546 |
" " Dry Creek | N. W. | 20 | 19 | 677 | |
" " Muddy Creek | N. W. | 15 | 16 | 693 | |
" " Weasel Creek | S. E. | 10 | 16 | 709 | |
" " Brattens River | S. E. | 25 | 10 | 719 | 2607 |
" " Otter River | N. W. | 30 | 12 | 731 | 2638 |
" " Beaver river | S. E. | 30 | 1/4 | 731 1/4 | |
" " Thy Snaged Creek | S. E. | 20 | 5 3/4 | 737 | |
" " Rivers a Cross | both | 28 | 10 | 747 | 2635 |
" " a small rapid not bad | 24 | 771 | |||
" " Stinking Cabin Creek | S. E. | 20 | 14 | 735 | |
" " Shields River boald | N. W. | 35 | 16 | 805 | |
" " the foot of the Rocky Mountains covered with Snow 1 5 of July in Latd. 45°. 22′ 34″ North |
16 | 817 | 2905 |
Note the distance by land from Clarks fork to the Mountain is only
120 miles. all the Streams falling in above Clarks fork are boald.
Portage from the River Rochejhone to the Head of the Missouri at the
three forks.
Miles | Miles across from the Rochejhone |
|
From the Rochejhone 2 miles below the Rocky Mountain on a Course nearly S 75° W. to the top of the dividing ridge which divides the wate[r]s of the rochejhone from those of the Missouri, passing up on the N. Side of portage run to the forks of the road the Country open, assent gentle |
9 |
Miles | Miles across from the Rochejhone |
|
To the Middle branch of the East fork of Galletins River takeing} the left hand road, this Stream running to the left |
1/2 | 9 1/2 |
To a Gap in the Mountain passing up a Small branch on it's N.} Side with a gradual ascent Country open and the course nearly west |
2 1/2 | 12 |
To the middle branch of the east fork of Galletins River passing} down on the N. Side of a branch crouded with beaver dams |
3 | 15 |
To the three forks of the East fork of Galletins river passing on the S. Side |
3 | 18 |
To the main fork of Galletins river passing through a leavel plain} N 78°. W |
12 | 30 |
To the arm of the river which forms beaver Island, passing} through the island a leavel open plain on a course N. 70°. W. an emencity of Beaver dams &c. on each side |
6 | 36 |
To Galletins River below the forks passing through an open} leavel plain on a course N. 78° W. on the S. Side of the R. |
6 | 42 |
To the Missouri imediately below the three forks, Jeffersons} Madisons and Galletins Rivers on a Course N. 35°. W. through an open plain passing over 2 Small hills after crossing the river on its N. Side |
6 | 48 |
Rout from the head of Jefferson River at the place we left the Canoes
to the mouth of Travellers rest on Clarks river on my rout in July 1806.
From the forks where our Canoes were left in 1805 up the west} branch on an old Shoshone road about nine miles |
9 | |
To a Gap in the mountain which divides Willards Creek waters} from those of wisdom river on a course N. 30°. West |
15 | |
To the boiling Hot Spring in a vally near the 3 forks of Wisdom} river, crossed 2 forks of Wisdom river from the right hand |
9 | |
To Glade Creek passing Wisdom river and 6 large creeks from} a Snow toped Mountain to the west, passing a Spur of the mountain after crossing the last creek on a course N. 56° W |
22 | |
To the head of Glade Creek keeping on an old roade which} passes up on the N. Side |
11 | |
To Oatlashoot vally leaveing Glade Creek an[d] heading to our} right and passing over a dividing mountain which Seperates the waters of the Missouri from those of Clarks river |
5 | |
To the Middle fork of Clarks river from the left hand in Oat-} lashshoots Vally |
8 | 79 |
To flour Camp Creek from the S. E. | 10 | |
To the West fork of Clarks river from the W. | 10 | |
To Scattered Creek from the East | 38 | |
To Travellers rest Creek from the west where the different roads} meet before the mountain is assended |
23 | 81 |
160 |
Note this rout is Generally leavel and firm and every par[t] of it will
afford a very good waggon road by removeing a fiew logs and cutting a
little on the hill Side.
Note The Indians inform us that there is an excellent road from
the 3 forks of the Missouri through a low gap in the mountains to the
East fork of Clarks river which passes down that fork to its junction
and up on the west Side of the main fork to Travellers rest Creek
which they travel with their families in 6 days the distance must be
about 150 miles, that added to 48 which is the portage from the River
Rochejhone is 198 miles which is 26 miles further than the rout by the
way of the falls of the Missouri.
One other rout from the river Rochejhone which is also a good one
but something further is from the head of the east fork of Galletins
River on a direct course to the mouth of Wisdom River and up that
river and Glade Creek and across to Clarks river in the Oatlashshoot
vally and from thence down that river to the Travellers rest Creek, at
which point all the roads in this quarter of the [world] appear to center
at the foot of those tremendious mountains the best and most direct
rout is by way of the falls of the Missouri and Travellers rest. Several
roads pass from the Missouri above the falls to Travellers rest Creek.
[The following, taken from the fragment designated by Coues
as Codex T, is in Clark's handwriting; we insert it here, as related
to the preceding fragment from Codex N. It should be
noted that this leaf called Codex T has been inserted in its
manila cover by the wrong edge; it begins to read at top of
p. 2 as thus inserted, and continues without break to the end
of p. 1.—Ed.]
[Blank space in MS.] Miles to the foot of the mountain where the
party were obliged to delay from the 9th of May to the 24 of June
for the snows of the mountains to subside sufficient to cross, and then
passed over snow for 60 Ms Generally from 3 to 6 or 8 feet deep quit[e]
Consolidated or Sufficiently so to bear a horse at the Enterance of the
Travellers rest on Clarks river Capt. Lewis & Clark seperated. Lewis
passed imediately to the falls of the Missouri on an old indian parth of
good road left a party at that place to prepare geer & wheels and proceeded
with 3 men to Explore a large N. fork of the Missouri called
Maria River and met with a party of Indians & was compelled to kill
2 of them. Clark with [blank space in MS.] men passed up Clarks
place the canoes had been left on his outward bound journey at the
head of Jeffersons river, descended Jeffersons rivers to the 3 forks,
and sent on the canoes down the Missouri under the direction of a
Sergt. and proceded himself up Galitines River and passed over to the
river Rochejhon or Yellow rock river from the South in Latd. 45.22 N.
and made canoes of wood & Buffalow canoes & Decended that river
818 miles, to its junction with the Missouri 1880 miles from St. Louis.
Biddle renders this(ii, p. 422) as "Hubert's;" but in the text of this journal
(i, p. 16) be makes it " Beau, or Clear Water."—Ed.
This latitude is give Codex A, p. 180, as that "opsd. a Island mentioned in the
2d. & 3d. Course of the 1 July on L. S." This is so near the Little Nemahar
River that it is given as the latitude of that stream.–—Ed.
The Indian habitations in this region shifted periodically, as is evident from the
journal entry April 9, 1806. On the downward journey they differed from those of
the return, as given here. The entries, therefore, in Codex I (compiled at Fort
Clatsop), and depicted on the map of the Great Rapids, are as follows : "to a.
Village below the great rapids of 4 houses abandoned opsd. a. 2d. bad rapid, one mile
not inhabited; to 4 houses of the Sha-ha-lah Nation at the lower rapids of the
Columbia river at tide water, 6 miles, not inhabited; to a Village of 9 houses of the
Shahalah Nation on the Stard. Side near the beaten rock 800 feet hi[gh] 5 miles, a man
with a brass barrel gun." These three entries take the place of the two in the text,
for the Clahclellah and Wahclellar villages. The distances are seen to be the
same.—Ed.
Here ends the final draft of the Summary (except for Lewis and Clark's pass,
and the Yellowstone, given below). What follows is taken from the Summary in
Codex I, and in Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4. There is a slight discrepancy in
the figures of these two accounts; the former makes the distance 4134 miles, the
latter 4144.—Ed.
In the final draft, the following table was inserted between the Great Falls of the
Missouri and "Remarkable places decending the Columbia." It gives the route by
which Lewis returned from the Kooskooskee to the Missouri, in reversed order.—Ed.
The Clark-Voorhis note-book No. 4 gives the two following entries, instead of
those in the text taken from Codex N:
"To the foot of the Rocky Mountains on the West side at a leavel country, 45
miles, 326 from the Falls, 2901 total. To the forks of Kooskooskea River from
whence it is navigable, 14 miles, 340 from the Falls, 2915 total."—Ed.
SCIENTIFIC DATA ACCOMPANYING
The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | ||