University of Virginia Library

CONTENTS.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

CHAPTER I.
	PAGE
Departure from Cork—The Atlantic in March—Fellow passengers —American politics and parties—The Irish in New York—Approach to New York	1
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at New York—Custom house—General impressions as to North and South—Street in New York—Hotel— Breakfast—American women and men—Visit to Mr. Bancroft —Street railways	7
CHAPTER III.
"St. Patrick's day" in New York—Public dinner—American Constitution—General topics of conversation—Public estimate of the Government—Evening party at Mons. B—'s	15
CHAPTER IV.
Streets and shops in New York—Literature—A funeral—Dinner at Mr. H—'s—Dinner at Mr. Bancroft's—Political and social features—Literary breakfast; Heenan and Sayers	24
CHAPTER V.
Off to the railway station—Railway carriages—Philadelphia— Washington—Willard's Hotel—Mr. Seward—North and South—The "State Department" at Washington—President Lincoln—Dinner at Mr. Seward's	30
CHAPTER VI.
A state dinner at Mr. Abraham Lincoln's—Mrs. Lincoln—The Cabinet Ministers—A newspaper correspondent—Good Friday at Washington	41
CHAPTER VII.
Barbers' shops—Place-hunting—The Navy Yard—Dinner at Lord Lyons'—Estimate of Washington among his countrymen —Washington's house and tomb—The Southern Commissioners —Dinner with the Southern Commissioners— Feeling towards England among the Southerners—Animosity between North and South	50
CHAPTER VIII.
New York Press—Rumors as to the Southerners—Visit to the Smithsonian Institute—Pythons—Evening at Mr. Seward's —Rough draft of official despatch to Lord J. Russell—Estimate of its effect in Europe—The attitude of Virginia	68
CHAPTER IX.
Dinner at General Scott's—Anecdotes of General Scott's early life—The startling despatch—Insecurity of the capital	72
CHAPTER X.
Preparations for war at Charleston—My own departure for the Southern States—Arrival at Baltimore—Commencement of hostilities at Fort Sumter—Bombardment of the fort—General feeling as to North and South—Slavery—First Impressions of the city of Baltimore—Departure by steamer	76
CHAPTER XI.
Scenes on board an American steamer—The "Merrimac"— Irish sailors in America—Norfolk—A telegram on Sunday; news from the seat of war—American "chaff" and our Jack Tars	80
CHAPTER XII.
Portsmouth—Railway journey through the forest—The great Dismal Swamp—American newspapers—Cattle on the line —Negro labor—On through the Pine Forest—The Confederate flag—Goldsborough; popular excitement—Weldon— Wilmington—The Vigilance Committee	87
CHAPTER XIII.
Sketches round Wilmington—Public opinion—Approach to Charleston and Fort Sumter—Introduction to General Beauregard —Ex-Governor Manning—Conversation on the chances of the war—"King Cotton" and England—Visit to Fort Sumter—Market-place at Charleston	95
CHAPTER XIV.
Southern volunteers—Unpopularity of the Press—Charleston —Fort Sumter—Morris' Island—Anti-union enthusiasm— Anecdote of Colonel Wigfall—Interior view of the fort—North versus South	101
CHAPTER XV.
Slaves, their Masters and Mistresses—Hotels—Attempted boat-journey to Fort Moultrie—Excitement at Charleston against New York—Preparations for war—General Beauregard— Southern opinion as to the policy of the North, and estimate of the effect of the war on England, through the cotton market— Aristocratic feeling in the South	112
CHAPTER XVI.
Charleston: the Market-place—Irishmen at Charleston—Governor Pickens: his political economy and theories—Newspaper offices and counting-houses—Rumors as to the war policy of the South	120
CHAPTER XVII.
Visit to a plantation; hospitable reception—By steamer to Georgetown—Description of the town—A country mansion —Masters and slaves—Slave diet—Humming-birds—Land irrigation—Negro quarters—Back to Georgetown	125
CHAPTER XVIII.
Climate of the Southern States—General Beauregard—Risks of the post-office—Hatred of New England—By railway to Sea Island plantation—Sporting in South Carolina—An hour on board a canoe in the dark	135
CHAPTER XIX.
Domestic negroes—Negro oarsmen—Off to the fishing-grounds —The devil-fish—Bad sport—The drum-fish—Negro quarters —Want of drainage—Thievish propensities of the blacks —A Southern estimate of Southerners	141
CHAPTER XX.
By railway to Savannah—Description of the city—Rumors of the last few days—State of affairs at Washington—Preparations for war—Cemetery of Bonaventure—Road made of oyster-shells—Appropriate features of the cemetery—The Tatnall family—Dinner-party at Mr. Green's—Feeling in Georgia against the North	149
CHAPTER XXI.
The river at Savannah—Commodore Tatnall—Fort Pulaski— Want of a fleet to the Southerners—Strong feeling of the women—Slavery considered in its results—Cotton and Georgia —Off for Montgomery—The Bishop of Georgia—The Bible and Slavery—Macon—Dislike of United States gold	155
CHAPTER XXII.
Slave-pens; Negroes on sale or hire—Popular feeling as to Secession —Beauregard and speech-making—Arrival at Montgomery —Bad hotel accommodation—Knights of the Golden Circle—Reflections on Slavery—Slave auction—The Legislative Assembly—A "live chattel" knocked down—Rumors from the North (true and false) and prospects of war	162
CHAPTER XXIII.
Proclamation of war—Jefferson Davis—Interview with the President of the Confederacy—Passport and safe-conduct— Messrs. Wigfall, Walker, and Benjamin—Privateering and letters of marque—A reception at Jefferson Davis's—Dinner at Mr. Benjamin's	172
CHAPTER XXIV.
Mr. Wigfall on the Confederacy—Intended departure from the South—Northern apathy and Southern activity—Future prospects of the Union—South Carolina and cotton—The theory of slavery—Indifference at New York—Departure from Montgomery	179
CHAPTER XXV.
The River Alabama—Voyage by steamer—Selma—Our captain and his slaves—"Running" slaves—Negro views of happiness —Mobile—Hotel—The city—Mr. Forsyth	184
CHAPTER XXVI.
Visit to Forts Gaines and Morgan—War to the knife the cry of the South—The "State" and the "States"—Bay of Mobile —The forts and their inmates—Opinions as to an attack on Washington—Rumors of actual war	192
CHAPTER XXVII.
Pensacola and Fort Pickens—Neutrals and their friends—Coasting —Sharks—The blockading fleet—The stars and stripes, and stars and bars—Domestic feuds caused by the war— Captain Adams and General Bragg—Interior of Fort Pickens	197
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Bitters before breakfast—An old Crimean acquaintance—Earthworks and batteries—Estimate of cannons—Magazines—Hospitality —English and American introductions and leave-takings —Fort Pickens: its interior—Return towards Mobile— Pursued by a strange sail—Running the blockade—Landing at Mobile	210
CHAPTER XXIX.
Judge Campbell—Dr. Nott—Slavery—Departure for New Orleans —Down the river—Fear of cruisers—Approach to New Orleans—Duelling—Streets of New Orleans—Unhealthiness of the city—Public opinion as to the war—Happy and contented negroes	225
CHAPTER XXX.
The first blow struck—The St. Charles Hotel—Invasion of Virginia by the Federals—Death of Col. Ellsworth—Evening at Mr. Slidell's—Public comments on the war—Richmond the capital of the Confederacy—Military preparations—General society—Jewish element—Visit to a battle-field of 1815	234
CHAPTER XXXI.
Carrying arms—New Orleans jail—Desperate characters— Executions—Female maniacs and prisoners—The river and levee—Climate of New Orleans—Population—General distress —Pressure of the blockade—Money—Philosophy of abstract rights—The doctrine of State Rights—Theoretical defect in the Constitution	244
CHAPTER XXXII.
Up the Mississippi—Free negroes and English policy—Monotony of the river scenery—Visit to M. Roman—Slave quarters—A slave-dance—Slave-children—Negro hospital— General opinion—Confidence in Jefferson Davis	253
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Ride through the maize-fields—Sugar plantation: negroes at work—Use of the lash—Feeling towards France—Silence of the country—Negroes and dogs—Theory of slavery—Physical formation of the negro—The defence of slavery—The masses for negro souls—Convent of the Sacré Cœur—Ferry house—A large land-owner	261
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Negroes—Sugar-cane plantations—The negro and cheap labor —Mortality of blacks and whites—Irish labor in Louisiana— A sugar-house—Negro children—Want of education—Negro diet—Negro hospital—Spirits in the morning—Breakfast— More slaves—Creole planters	270
CHAPTER XXXV.
War-rumors, and military movements—Governor Manning's slave plantations—Fortunes made by slave-labor—Frogs for the table—The forest—Cotton and sugar—A thunder-storm	280
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Visit to Mr. M'Call's plantation—Irish and Spaniards—The planter—A Southern sporting man—The creoles—Leave Houmas—Donaldsonville—Description of the City—Baton Rouge—Steamer to Natchez—Southern feeling; faith in Jefferson Davis—Rise and progress of prosperity for the planters —Ultimate issue of the war to both North and South	284
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Down the Mississippi—Hotel at Vicksburg—Dinner—Public meeting—News of the progress of the war—Slavery and England—Jackson—Governor Pettus—Insecurity Of life— Strong Southern enthusiasm—Troops bound for the North— Approach to Memphis—Slaves for sale—Memphis—General Pillow	295
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Camp Randolph—Cannon practice—Volunteers—"Dixie"— Forced return from the South—Apathy of the North—General retrospect of politics—Energy and earnestness of the South—Fire-arms—Position of Great Britain towards the belligerents —Feeling towards the Old Country	309
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Heavy Bill—Railway travelling—Introductions—Assassinations —Tennessee—"Corinth"—"Tory"—"Humbolt"— "The Confederate Camp"—Return Northwards—Columbus —Cairo—The Slavery Question—Prospects of the War— Coarse journalism	322
CHAPTER XL.
Camp at Cairo—The North and the South in respect to Europe —Political reflections—Mr. Colonel Oglesby—My speech—Northern and Southern soldiers compared—American country-walks—Recklessness of life—Want of cavalry Emeute in the camp—Defects of army medical department— Horrors of war—Bad discipline	337
CHAPTER XLI.
Impending battle—By railway to Chicago—Northern enlightenment —Mound City—"Cotton is King"—Land la the States—Dead level of American society—Return into the Union—American homes—Across the Prairie—White laborers —New pillager—Lake Michigan	346
CHAPTER XLII.
Progress of events—Policy of Great Britain as regarded by the North—The American press and its comments—Privacy a luxury—Chicago—Senator Douglas and his widow—American ingratitude—Apathy in volunteering—Colonel Turchin's camp	354
CHAPTER XLIII.
Niagara—Impression of the Falls—Battle scenes in the neighborhood —A village of Indians—General Scott—Hostile movements on both sides—The Hudson—Military school at West Point—Return to New York—Altered appearance of the city—Misery and suffering—Altered state of public opinion, as to the Union and towards Great Britain	360
CHAPTER XLIV.
Departure for Washington—A "servant"—The American Press on the War—Military aspect of the States—Philadelphia —Baltimore—Washington—Lord Lyons—Mr. Sumner —Irritation against Great Britain—"Independence" day— Meeting of Congress—General state of affairs	373
CHAPTER XLV.
Interview with Mr. Seward—My passport—Mr. Seward's views as to the war—Illumination at Washington—My "servant" absents himself—New York journalism—The Capitol—Interior of Congress—The President's Message—Speeches in Congress—Lord Lyons—General McDowell—Low standard in the army—Accident to the "Stars and Stripes"—A street row—Mr. Bigelow—Mr. N. P. Willis	380
CHAPTER XLVI.
Arlington Heights and the Potomac—Washington—The Federal camp—General McDowell—Flying rumors—Newspaper correspondents—General Frémont—Silencing the Press and Telegraph—A Loan Bill—Interview with Mr. Cameron— Newspaper criticism on Lord Lyons—Rumors about McClellan —The Northern army as reported and as it is—General McClellan	393
CHAPTER XLVII.
Fortress Monroe—General Butler—Hospital accommodation— Wounded soldiers—Aristocratic pedigrees—A great gun— Newport News—Fraudulent contractors—General Butler— Artillery practice—Contraband negroes—Confederate lines— Tombs of American loyalists—Troops and contractors—Duryea's New York Zouaves—Military calculations—A voyage by steamer to Annapolis	405
CHAPTER XLVIII.
The "State House" at Annapolis—Washington—General Scott's quarters—Want of a staff—Rival camps—Demand for horses —Popular excitement—Lord Lyons—General McDowell's movements—Retreat from Fairfax Court House—General Scott's quarters—General Mansfield—Battle of Bull Run	423
CHAPTER XLIX.
Skirmish at Bull's Run—The Crisis in Congress—Dearth of horses—War Prices at Washington—Estimate of the effects of Bull Run—Password and Countersign—Transatlantic View of "The Times"—Difficulties of a Newspaper Correspondent in the Field	434
CHAPTER L.
To the scene of action—The Confederate camp—Centreville— Action at Bull Run—Defeat of the Federals—Disorderly retreat to Centreville—My ride back to Washington	442
CHAPTER LI.
A runaway crowd at Washington—The army of the Potomac in retreat—Mail-day—Want of order and authority—Newspaper lies—Alarm at Washington—Confederate prisoners— General McClellan—M. Mercier—Effects of the defeat on Mr. Seward and the President—McDowell—General Patterson	467
CHAPTER LII.
Attack of illness—General McClellan—Reception at the White House—Drunkenness among the Volunteers—Visit from Mr. Olmsted—Georgetown—Intense heat—McClellan and the Newspapers—Reception at Mr. Seward's—Alexandria—A Storm—Sudden Death of an English Officer—The Maryland Club—A Prayer and Fast Day—Financial Difficulties	479
CHAPTER LIII.
Return to Baltimore—Colonel Carroll—A Priest's view of the Abolition of Slavery—Slavery in Maryland—Harper's Ferry —John Brown—Back by train to Washington—Further accounts of Bull Run—American Vanity—My own unpopularity for speaking the truth—Killing a "Nigger" no murder —Navy Department	491
CHAPTER LIV.
A tour of inspection round the camp—A troublesome horse —McDowell and the President—My opinion of Bull Run
indorsed by American officers—Influence of the Press— Newspaper correspondents—Dr. Bray—My letters—Captain Meagher—Military adventures—Probable duration of the war—Lord A. Vane Tempest—The American journalist— Threats of assassination	505
CHAPTER LV.
Personal unpopularity—American naval officers—A gun levelled at me in fun—Increase of odium against me—Success of the Hatteras expedition—General Scott and McClellan—McClellan on his camp-bed—General Scott's pass refused—Prospect of an attack on Washington—Skirmishing—Anonymous letters —General Halleck—General McClellan and the Sabbath —Rumored death of Jefferson Davis—Spread of my unpopularity —An offer for my horse—Dinner at the Legation— Discussion on Slavery	516
CHAPTER LVI.
A Crimean acquaintance—Personal abuse of myself—Close firing —A reconnoissance—Major-General Bell—The Prince de Joinville and his nephews—American estimate of Louis Napoleon —Arrest of members of the Maryland Legislature—Life at Washington—War cries—News from the Far West— Journey to the Western States—Along the Susquehannah and Juniata—Chicago—Sport in the prairie—Arrested for shooting on Sunday—The town of Dwight—Return to Washington —Mr. Seward and myself	531
CHAPTER LVII.
Another Crimean acquaintance—Summary dismissal of a newspaper correspondent—Dinner at Lord Lyons'—Review of artillery—"Habeas Corpus"—The President's duties—McClellan's policy—The Union army—Soldiers and the patrol —Public men in America—Mr. Seward and Lord Lyons— A judge placed under arrest—Death and funeral of Senator Baker—Disorderly troops and officers—Official fibs—Duck-shooting at Baltimore	548
CHAPTER LVIII.
General Scott's resignation—Mrs. A. Lincoln—Unofficial mission to Europe—Uneasy feeling with regard to France—Ball given by the United States cavalry—The United States army —Success at Beaufort—Arrests—Dinner at Mr. Seward's— News of Captain Wilkes and the Trent—Messrs. Mason and Slidell—Discussion as to Wilkes—Prince de Joinville—The American press on the Trent affair—Absence of thieves in Washington—"Thanksgiving Day"—Success thus far in favor of the North	566
CHAPTER LIX.
A captain under arrest—Opening of Congress—Colonel D'Utassy —An ex-pugilist turned senator—Mr. Cameron—Ball in the officers' huts—Presentation of standards at Arlington— Dinner at Lord Lyons'—Paper Currency—A polyglot dinner —Visit to Washington's tomb—Mr. Chase's report—Colonel Seaton—Unanimity of the South—The Potomac blockade— A Dutch-American Crimean acquaintance—The American lawyers on the Trent affair—Mr. Sumner—McClellan's army —Impressions produced in America by the English press on the affair of the Trent—Mr. Sumner on the crisis—Mutual feelings between the two nations—Rumors of war with Great Britain	579
CHAPTER LX.
News of the death of the Prince Consort—Mr. Sumner and the Trent affair—Despatch to Lord Russell—The Southern Commissioners given up—Effects on the friends of the South —My own unpopularity at New York—Attack of fever— My tour in Canada—My return to New York in February— Successes of the Western States—Mr. Stanton succeeds Mr. Cameron as Secretary of War—Reverse and retreat of McClellan —My free pass—The Merrimac and Monitor—My arrangement to accompany McClellan's head-quarters—Mr. Stanton refuses his sanction—National vanity wounded by my truthfulness—My retirement and my return to Europe	591