10. Bois de Boulogne.
Fortifications. — Jardin d'Acclimatation.
The new and stately Avenue de l'Impératrice (150 yards in
breadth, ¾ M. in length, from the Arc de l'Étoile to the Porte
Dauphine) leads from the triumphal arch in a S.W. direction to
the **Bois de Boulogne, now a delightful park, once a forest
abounding with game, the resort of duellists and suicides and
the haunt of bandits. When the Prussians and Russians were
here encamped in 1814 and 1815, a great portion of the wood
disappeared. Louis XVIII. caused new trees to be planted, and
Charles X. ordered that game should once more be preserved in
the forest; the July revolution, however, put a stop to these
proceedings.
Under Louis Philippe, although the Bois de Boulogne was
one of the crown-domains, little was done in the way of improving
it. In 1852 it was handed over to the municipality, on condition
that a sum of two million francs should be expended on it
within a period of four years, and that it should be maintained
for the future at the expense of the city. The improvements
are now completed, and such a revolution in the entire aspect of
the place has been effected that persons who have not visited it
since 1853 would find it difficult of recognition. The long and
beautiful avenue leading from the Porte Maillot (p. 87) to Longchamps,
formerly the most frequented, is now comparatively deserted.
Until a few years ago the grand "Promenades de Longchamps",
which took place during several days previous to Easter,
especially on Good Friday, presented a scene of unrivalled gaiety
and animation. On these occasions in favourable weather, an
uninterrupted succession of carriages might be seen, extending
from the Place de la Concorde to the Abbey of Longchamps, a
distance of upwards of 3 M.
A number of the smaller paths which formerly traversed the
wood have now disappeared to make room for two artificial lakes,
the Lac inférieur, about ¾ M. in length and 100 yds. in breadth,
and the Lac supérieur, about ¼ M. in length. In the vicinity of
these sheets of water, and on the islands, every species of attraction may
be found calculated to refresh and entertain the denizen of the city.
On one of the *islands (ferry there and back 20 c.; boat on
the lake for 1—7 pers 3 fr., 8—14 pers. 5 fr. per half hour) is
situated a large and tastefully constructed Chalet in the Swiss
style, employed as a café, where déjeuners, dîners and soupers
may be procured (charges not exorbitant). As cafés are one of
the chief characteristics of every Parisian resort, the hungry and
thirsty wayfarer will find numerous opportunities of refreshment
in all parts of the wood (Ravel, Avenue de l'Impératrice, one of
the best, see p. 10).
Until recently the Pré Catelan, where the Concerts Musard
now take place, was perhaps the nucleus of attraction for visitors
to the Bois de Boulogne. It is now, however, deserted for the
*Chalet des Iles already mentioned, a resort of a similar description,
(admission 1 fr.), where music, an open air theatre, games of
all descriptions, a reading-room etc. allure vast numbers of pleasure
seekers. On summer evenings by gaslight the chalet presents a
scene of the gayest description. As the number of ferryboats is
limited, visitors should secure a ticket for the return transit immediately
on crossing; if this precaution be neglected, a longer
detention on the island than anticipated will be the probable result.
The outlet of the lakes at the Carrefour du bout du lac (at
the E. end of the lac inférieur) forms two brooks, contrived with
such art as to appear natural, one of which leads to the Pavillon
Armenonville, whilst the other, the "Rivière de Neuilly" with its
shady paths leads to the "Mare de Longehamps" and the "Cascade".
From the highest point of the latter the remnants of the Abbey
of Longchamps are visible, adjacent to which, to the r., is situated
the Hippodrôme de Longchamps with its four tastefully constructed
tribunes or stands. This fine race-course has been granted by
the city to the Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des
Chevaux, or French Jockey Club, by which the autumn races,
formerly held on the Champ de Mars, are now managed.
Ranelagh and Madrid, two well known places of popular resort,
are also within the precincts of the Bois de Boulogne. La Muette,
St. James, Passy, Auteuil etc., all in the environs of the Bois
de Boulogne, abound with villas and summer residences of every
variety.
The "Tour des lacs" is now the most fashionable afternoon
drive in the Bois de Boulogne, in winter as well as in summer.
On Sundays it is crowded with foot-passengers of the middling
and lower classes.
The Chemin de fer d'Auteuil and the Chemin de fer Américain
(p. 23) both convey passengers to the Bois de Boulogne, as
well as innumerable omnibuses which pass partly through the
Barrière de l'Étoile and partly through the Barrière de Passy.
The stranger may either avail himself of one of these conveyances,
and having reached his destination visit the park on foot, or may
prefer to engage a fiacre or voiture de remise by the hour which
he may quit and re-enter at pleasure. A drive of two hours
suffices for a hurried glimpse at the principal points of attraction;
if however, the weather be propitious, a whole day may be spent
very pleasantly in thoroughly exploring the Bois de Boulogne, in
which case the annexed plan will be found a useful companion.
Contiguous to the Avenue de l'Impératrice, to the l., is the
Hippodrôme, a circus in which equestrian performances may be
witnessed twice or three times a week in summer. Adm. 1—3 fr.
The Fortifications of the city skirt the Bois de Boulogne on
the E. side. In consequence of a decree of 1840, Paris was
fortified and encircled with ramparts, a work which was completed
within three years at an expense of 140 million francs (5,600,000 L.).
The entire length of the enceinte is upwards of 21 M., and consists
of 94 different bastions. The ramparts, which average 30 ft.
in height, are environed by a ditch, 18 ft. in depth, and a glacis.
The approaches to the town are commanded by 17 Forts detachés,
the most important of which is Mont Valérien (p. 168).
That portion of the Bois de Boulogne which skirts the Boulevard
de Maillot, and lies between the Porte des Sablons and the
Porte de Madrid, is termed the Jardin d'Acclimatation (omnibus C,
Louvre-Courbevoie will convey the visitor, who should alight at
the bridge near the entrance). Here various experiments are
made with a view to acclimatize foreign plants, animals and
birds. Seeds, eggs and the young of different animals may be
purchased at moderate prices at the manager's office, to the r.
at the entrance near the Porte des Sablons. The garden is accessible
the whole day to carriages, equestrians and foot-passengers
(admission 3 fr., 1 fr. and 50 c.). The principal entrance is on
the E. side, near the Porte des Sablons; a second is at Neuilly,
near the Porte de Madrid. The grounds are beautifully laid out and
furnished with tastefully constructed cages, hothouses and pavilions
for the four-footed inmates. The stream which traverses the garden,
with its picturesque miniature islands and rustic bridges, serves
for the culture of aquatic plants.
To the r. of the chief entrance, facing the S., are the receptacles
for animals from warmer climates; then in the main avenue,
to the r., the visitor will perceive the Silkworm Nursery,
where various species are reared, and fed on suitable plants which
are grown in the vicinity for the purpose. Farther on is the
Aviary, divided into 21 different compartments, and the Poultry
Enclosure with its 31 compartments. A large building at the
extremity of the garden contains the Stables, a restaurant, and
a room for the exhibitions of articles having reference to the object
of the garden. Returning from the stables to the principal
entrance by the main avenue, the visitor should now inspect the
*Aquarium, consisting of 10 glass reservoirs filled with sea-water
and 4 with fresh, which is constantly renewed by means
of pumps. An admirable opportunity is here afforded for observing
the habits of the finny tribe. The same building contains
a receptacle for the artificial breeding of fish. To the S., by
the chief entrance, is situated the beautiful Hothouse, where
there is a reading-room and a restaurant. Adjacent are several
smaller hothouses containing an extensive collection of plants. 21
It may interest the reader to know that two of the principal managers
of the Jardin d'Acclimatation are Englishmen.
