8. Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile.
Russian Church. Chapelle St. Ferdinand.
The close of the Avenue, 1 M. in length, which extends from
the Place de la Concorde to the Barrière de l'Etoile, is formed
by the *Triumphal Arch (Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile), the most
magnificent structure of the kind in the world. It stands on a
slight eminence, 1½ M. from the Palais Royal, and is visible
from almost every part of the environs of Paris.
Napoleon I. resolved in 1806 to erect four triumphal arches
in commemoration of his victories. Of these two only were ever
completed, that in the Place du Carrousel by the emperor himself,
and the Arc de l'Etoile (founded Aug. 16th, 1806) by Louis
Philippe in 1836, the latter having cost altogether upwards of
10 million francs (400,000 L.). It consists of a vast arch, 95 ft.
in height and 45 ft. in breadth, intersected by a transversal arch
of much smaller dimensions. The entire structure is 152 ft. in
height, 137 ft. in width and 68 in depth.
The following groups adorn the E. front: to the r., Departure
of the troops to the frontier in 1792, by Rude, the finest
of the four large groups; above it, a relief representing the death
of General Marceau (fell at Altenkirchen, Sept. 22nd, 1796;
interred at Coblentz), by Lemaire; to the l. Napoleon crowned
by the goddess of Victory in 1810, by Cortot; above it, Mustapha
Pasha taken prisoner by Murat at the battle of Aboukir, by Seurre.
On the W. front, to the r Resistance of the French nation
to the invading armies in 1814, by Etex: above it, Passage of
the bridge of Arcole (death of Muiron, Bonaparte's adjutant), by
Feuchères; — to the l., the Peace of 1815, also by
Etex; above it,
the Taking of Alexandria (Kléber, who has received a wound
on the head, points out the enemy to his troops), by
Chaponnière.
For the two large groups by Etex, executed in 1833—36,
the sum of 140,000 fr. was paid.
The reliefs on the N. face represont a somewhat confused
group, by Gechter, of the battle of Austerlitz, in which the myth
invented by French historians of the Russian regiments sunk
amidst the ice is not wanting; — on the S. face: the Battle of
Jemappes, behind General Dumouriez the Duc de Chartres (Louis
Philippe) is represented attacking Prussian batteries, by Marochetti.
The succession of reliefs on the frieze represent on the E. side
the departure, and on the W. side the return of the French armies,
by Brun, Jaquot, Seurre and Rude. The figures of Victory
on each side of the upper portion of the arch are by Pradier.
A series of 30 shields on the attic above the entablature are
inscribed with the names of different victories.
On the vaulting of the transversal arch are recorded the
names of generals of the republic and of the empire; the names
of those who fell in battle are underlined. In the time of Louis
Philippe there were 384 names; Napoleon III. has caused two
more to be added, those of his father Louis Napoleon and his
uncle Jérôme.
The figures of Victory in relief beneath these names have reference
to successes gained in the east, north and south. The
cock interchanges with the eagle in the coat of arms.
The prospect which the Platform commands deservedly enjoys
its high reputation. The ascent is by a spiral staircase of 281 steps
in the S. pillar (fee 25 c.). With regard to some suitable
sculpture to be placed on the summit, in order to give an appropriate
finish to the whole, no determination has as yet been
arrived at.
In the vicinity of the Arc de l'Etoile, towards the N., Rue
Beaujon 21, is situated a remarkably handsome and peculiarly
ornamented mansion, which in 1852 was purchased by the dethroned
Duke Charles of Brunswick from Lola Montez. Most of
the new buildings in this neighbourhood are distinguished by
their handsome and tasteful appearance.
In the Rue de la Croix, in this quarter of the city, is situated
the Russian Church (access on Sundays, Tuesdays and
Thursdays, 3—5 p. m.), recognisable at a considerable distance
by the glittering gilded star by which it is surmounted. The
entire edifice is richly decorated; the interior is tastefully adorned
with pictures. The Iconostas, or screen between the nave
and choir, is covered with pictures of Russian saints.
The continuation of the Avenue des Champs Elysées beyond
the Arc de l'Etoile is termed the Avenue de Neuilly and leads to
Neuilly, for which an omnibus starts every 10 min. from the
Louvre, viâ the Barrière de l'Etoile. From the latter to the
bridge over the Seine at Neuilly in 20 min., fare 30 c. The palace,
once the favourite residence of Louis Philippe, was totally
destroyed, Feb. 25th, 1848; the site with the park have now
passed into private hands.
The Bois de Boulogne (p. 89) adjoins the S. side of the Avenue
de Neuilly. On the N. side of the Avenue, nearly opposite
the Porte Maillot, formerly the principal entrance of the Bois de
Boulogne, the Chemin de la Révolte, a broad street with few
houses diverges from the main road. In this street, about 100 yds.
from the Avenue de Neuilly, is situated the entrance to the
*Chapel of St. Ferdinand on the right, a cruciform mausoleum
in the Lombard style, 50 ft. in length and 20 ft. in height,
marking the spot were the ill-fated and lamented Ferdinand, Duke
of Orleans, breathed his last, July 13th, 1842, in consequence of
injuries received by falling from his carriage.
The house in which the duke expired was purchased by Louis
Philippe, who caused the chapel to be erected on the site as a
memorial of the melancholy event. On the high-altar is a Descent
from the Cross in marble, by Triquetti. To the l. is the altar of
St. Ferdinand, opposite to which is placed a group in the form
of a sarcophagus, representing the Duke on his death-bed, also
by Triquetti, from drawings by Ary Scheffer. The figure of a
*praying angel at the head of the dying prince was executed by
his sister Marie d'Orléans, wife of Duke Alexander of Wirtemberg,
who died Jan. 2nd, 1839. The windows are filled with
stained glass from drawings by Ingres (these designs are preserved
in the Luxembourg, see p. 132), and represent Faith, Hope,
Charity and fourteen saints whose names correspond with those
of the royal family; St. Ferdinand and St. Helena are portraits
of the Duke himself and his consort Helen of Mecklenburg
(d. 1858).
Behind the high-altar several steps lead into the Sacristy,
which is the exact spot where the Duke expired. A picture by
Jacquand, painted in 1844, represents this affecting scene. Around
the couch of the dying prince are the king, the queen, the Princess
Clementine, the Dukes of Aumale and Montpensier, Marshals
Soult and Gérard and the curé of Neuilly. The other persons
present are the generals Athalin, Gourgaud and Rumigny, Duke
Pasquier, M. Martin (du Nord) and M. Guizot. Dr. Paquet supports
the head of the sufferer. Dr. Destouches, the other physician,
bears a striking resemblance to M. Thiers. — The
chapel is accessible to visitors from 10 to 5 o'clock (fee 50 c.
to 1 fr.).
The station to the r., in the vicinity of the Chemin de la
Révolte, is on the branch railway from Auteuil by Passy, Porte-Dauphine
and Porte-Maillot (mentioned above) to the railway
station for Rouen or Versailles in the Rue St. Lazare. Train to
Paris every 20 min.
