Paris and northern France handbook for travellers |
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 | Paris and northern France |  |
PRELIMINARY INFORMATION
1. ARRIVAL IN PARIS.
On arriving at the railway-station the traveller is recommended
at once to secure a fiacre ("restez pour attendre les bagages"),
as the number of these vehicles is sometimes limited. It should
be observed that the driver expects 25 c. for this waiting if
under, and the full charge for an hour if over ¼ hr. When
apartments are not easily procured, as will be the case during
the time of the Exhibition, the traveller is recommended to
engage his vehicle à l'heure, as otherwise every stoppage entails
the payment of a course. After having obtained the printed
number from the driver, he may then return to have his luggage
inspected by the officials of the Douane, unless this has already
been done at the frontier, which is the case if the passenger is
not provided with a through-ticket. This formality ended, a
facteur (15—25 c.) is desired to convey the luggage to the
fiacre. Fares, within the precincts of the city, for 1—2 pers.
1 fr. to 1 fr. 40 c., for 2—4 pers. 1 fr. 10 c. to 1 fr. 50 c.; luggage
25 c. per package; driver's fee 10—20 c. (comp. p. 20).
The omnibuses, the conductors of which generally endeavour
to take possession of the traveller and his luggage, are not recommended,
unless they actually pass the door of the house
where the traveller intends to alight (fare 30 c., from midnight
till 6 a. m. 60 c., luggage 30—50 c., comp. p. 20).
Families or large parties will find an Omnibus de Famille
a comfortable and comparatively inexpensive conveyance. These
vehicles generally belong to the hotel-keepers, from whom they
must be ordered by letter, stating by what train the party may
be expected. Or application may be made to the Chef de Gare[1]
.
From the stations du Nord, de l'Est and de l'Ouest 5 fr. are
charged for an omnibus for 6 pers., 8 fr. for 14 pers., about
2 cwt. of luggage being allowed for the party. From the
stations de Lyon and d'Orléans the charge amounts to about 1 fr.
for each person.
Travellers arriving at night may prefer to engage the services
of a porter (facteur) and proceed on foot to the nearest hotel.
Near the Station du Nord may be mentioned the Hôtel Cailleux,
(R. 2—4 fr.), and the Grand Hôtel du Chemin de Fer du Nord,
— Hôtel de St Quentin, Rue St. Quentin 27. These hotels are
also restaurants. The Restaurant of Meysick, corner of the Rue
Lafayette and the Boulevard de Magenta, is also recommended.
— At the Strasbourg Station (de l'Est) may be mentioned the
Hôtel de St. Laurent, Rue de Metz 4, to the left on leaving the
station. Then in the Boulevard de Strasbourg: 78 Grand Hôtel
de Strasbourg, 74 *Hôtel de l'Europe with restaurant, 87 Hôtel
de Champagne et de Mulhouse, 72 Grand Hôtel de Paris. — At
the Station de l'Ouest (for Havre, Dieppe etc.) Hôtel de Mayence,
24 Rue d'Amsterdam.
In order to avoid all unnecessary loss of time, the traveller
should, if possible, write the forms of application for permission
to visit the Hôtel de Ville, etc. before leaving home, omitting
however to close them, as sealed letters are liable to seizure
at the custom-house. Suitable forms will in each case be found
in the following pages.
To ensure civility from servants, officials and others, the traveller
in France is cautioned not to omit the inevitable "s'il vous
plaît", when making a request, or even when ordering refreshments
at a café or restaurant. Thus "le cordon, s'il vous plaît" is the expression
usually employed in requesting the concierge to open
the house-door. It should, moreover, be borne in mind that it
is customary to address persons of humble station as "Monsieur",
"Madame", or "Mademoiselle".
The policemen (Sergents de Ville) who are to be met with in
every street and place of public resort, are always ready, when
civilly questioned, to furnish strangers with every information in
their power. The Parisian police are so efficient and well-organized
a body, that street-robberies are of far less frequent occurrence
than in most other large towns. It is, however, advisable
to be on one's guard against pickpockets, who are as adroit as
the police are vigilant.
Should the traveller require medical advice during his stay
in Paris, he will do well to note down the address of some
respectable physician residing in the neighbourhood of his apartments.
Among others may be mentioned: Dr. Campbell, Rue
Royale 24; Dr. Chepmell, Rue de Suresnes 21; Dr. Churchill,
Rue Scribe 7; Dr. Davison, Rue de Luxembourg 29; Dr. Higgins,
Rue de Rivoli 212; Dr. Jahr (homœopath), Passage Saulnier 17;
Dr. James, Rue de Luxembourg 51; Dr. Maccarthy, Rue de la
Ville l'Evêque 15; Sir Joseph Olliffe, Rue St. Florentin 2; Dr.
Otterburg, Rue Richelieu 106; Dr. Rayner, Rue du Château
des Fleurs 2, Champs Elysées; Dr. Shrimpton, Rue d'Anjon
17. — Oculists: Dr. Sichel, Chaussée d'Antin 50; Dr. Her-
schel, Rue Laffitte 18. — Dentists: Mr. George, Rue de Rivoli 24;
Mr. Weber, Place Vendôme 16. — Chemists and druggists: Gallois,
Place Vendôme 2; Hogg, Rue Castiglione 2; Pariss, Place
Vendôme 28; Roberts and Co., Place Vendôme 23; Swann, Rue
Castiglione 12.
In the case of a serious or tedious illness, the patient cannot
do better than enter one of the regular sanitary establishments.
The Maison Municipale de Santé, Rue du Faubourg St. Denis 200,
deserves special commendation; terms 4 — 15 fr. per diem, incl.
board, lodging, medical attendance and medicines. Similar private
establishments are more expensive, such as the Maison de Santé
de M. le Docteur Plouviez, 39 Rue de Marbeuf, pleasantly situated;
Etablissement Hydrothérapique de Tivoli (see p. 19), 102 Rue
St. Lazare etc.
Legal advisers: Mr. Castaignet, Rue Louis le Grand 28; Mr.
Digweed, Rue Colysée 5, Champs Elysées; Mr. Maugham, Faubourg
St. Honoré 54; Mr. Smith, Rue Ste. Anne 48.
A Monsieur le Chef de Gare de la Station . . . . . à Paris.
Monsieur, je vous prie d'avoir bien l'obligeance de me faire venir au
train de . . heures un omnibus de famille de . . places.
Veuillez bien, Monsieur, excuser mon importunité et recevoir à l'avance
mes remerciments et l'assurance de ma haute considération.
2. HOTELS AND MAISONS MEUBLÉES.
Although the average hotel-charges of the last few years are
here stated, it need hardly be observed that during the present
year the vast influx of visitors to the Exhibition will necessarily
produce a marked effect on the price of every commodity in
the French metropolis. There is, however, reason to hope that
measures will be taken to prevent the wholesale extortion which
is two commonly practised on such occasions. Those who are
desirous of avoiding a most disagreeable surprise should of course
ascertain charges beforehand.
If a Prolonged Stay is made at an hotel, the bill should
be demanded every 3 or 4 days, by which means errors, whether
accidental or designed, are more easily detected. In the case of
a departure early in the morning, the bill should be obtained
over night; it is a favourite practice to withhold the bill till the
last moment, when the hurry and confusion render overcharges
less liable to discovery.
Although Attendance is always an item in the hotel-bill, it is
usual to give the head-waiter and the concierge a fee of 1—2 fr.
per week, and the under-waiter by whom the traveller has been
served, about 2 fr. In a few cases the payment for service is
left to the discretion of the traveller, who is expected to give
½—1 fr. daily. As this is not usually distributed among the
servants till the end of the traveller's stay, an occasional extra
gratuity will tend greatly to ensure civility.
Travellers are cautioned against keeping Articles of Value in
the drawers or cupboards of their rooms. They should be entrusted
to the care of the landlord, or sent to a banker.
The largest hotels in the town, and perhaps on the entire continent,
are the two following: *Grand Hôtel du Louvre, situated
between the Louvre and Palais Royal (Plan, white 7), a huge,
palatial edifice, the construction of which cost upwards of 50,000 l.
The number of rooms is about 400, and upwards of 300 persons
frequently dine at the table d'hôte. *Grand Hôtel, in the Boulevard
des Capucines, nearly opposite the Rue de la Paix (Plan,
red 5). It contains 70 magnificently furnished saloons and about
700 bedrooms, 5 dining-rooms, a telegraph-office, baths, billiard-rooms,
smoking-rooms, reading-rooms etc. — The charges in
both these establishments are as follows: R. 4 fr. and upwards,
B. (coffee and bread and butter) 1½ fr., table d'hôte at 6 p. m.
7—8 fr. incl. wine, A. 2 fr. for the first and 1 fr. for each subsequent
day. — Both these hotels are replete with every comfort, and
are especially recommended to men of business, as travellers
are sure to find accommodation at any hour of the day or night.
Many, however, will prefer the smaller, quieter and less expensive
establishments, especially when ladies and children are
of the party.
Out of the vast number of hotels which Paris contains a
few only of the best-situated and most respectable are here
enumerated.
Hôtel des Trois Empereurs, opposite the Hôtel du Louvre,
entrance in the Rue de Rivoli 170, table d'hôte at 6 p. m. 4 fr.
incl. wine. Adjacent to the latter is the Maison Meublée du
Pavillon Rohan, Rue de Rivoli 172.
The following six hotels, situated in the Rue de Rivoli,
opposite the garden of the Tuileries, and principally frequented
by English travellers, are of the highest class and expensive:
*Hôtel Meurice, 228; Hôtel Windsor, 226: Hôtel Brighton, 218;
Hôtel Wagram, 208; Hôtel Rivoli, 202; Hôtel de la Place du
Palais Royal, 170. — The same remark applies to: *Hôtel Bristol,
Place Vendôme 5; Hôtel de Lille et d'Albion, Rue St. Honoré 211.
*Hôtel du Rhin, Place Vendôme 4 (Pl., red 5), table d'hôte
excl. wine 3½ fr., R. 3 fr. and upwards.
Grand Hôtel de la Rue Royale, in the animated Rue Royale
(23), leading from the Place de la Concorde to the Place de la
Madeleine.
Hôtel Meyerbeer, Avenue Matignon, Champs Elysées, with good
restaurant on the ground-floor, somewhat distant from the principal
sights of the city. — Hôtel Miroménil, 41 Rue Miroménil.
In the two broad and handsome streets which lead from the
Place Vendôme (Pl. red. 6) to the Boulevard and the Rue de
Rivoli respectively, are situated the following hotels, most of
them much frequented by English travellers, all good, but expensive:
in the Rue Castiglione, No. 4, Clarendon, 5 Londres, 11 Liverpool,
12 Castiglione; in the Rue de la Paix, No. 8 *Mirabeau,
25 Douvres, 28 Canterbury, 32 de la Paix.
In the Rue Neuve des Augustins, leading to the Rue de la
Paix, near the Boulevard des Capucines, are the following less
pretending hotels, which are well spoken of: No. 57, Hôtel de
l'Empire, 48 Hôtel de l'Orient, 55 de l'Amirauté, 46 Maison Meublée
with table d'hôte at 6, 67 *Chatham.
In the Boulevard des Capucines, opposite the Grand Hôtel,
two large new Maisons Meublées, Nos. 25 and 29.
*Hôtel de Calais, Rue Neuve des Capucines, near the Place
Vendôme, R. 2—10 fr., B. 1½, L. ¾, A. ¾ fr., D., if ordered
at the usual hour, 4 fr.
*Grand Hôtel de France, Rue Laffitte 31 (Pl., red 7), leading
to the Boulevard des Italiens, a quiet and comfortable house,
tables d'hôte, charges moderate. — No. 24, Hôtel Byron, not
expensive, good attendance, D. inc. W. at 6 o'cl. 4½ fr.; 40
Hôtel Lafitte.
*Hôtel de France et d'Angleterre, Rue Richelieu 72 (Pl., red 7),
principal entrance in the side street, Rue des Filles St. Thomas;
table d'hôte at 6 o'cl. 4 fr. incl. wine, private dinner after
5 o'clock 4—6 fr., pension 16 fr.
Grand Hôtel de Lyon, near the last, 12 Rue des Filles St.
Thomas, D. at 5. 45 o'cl. 3½ fr.
Hôtel de Valois, Rue Richelieu 69. Near it (No. 12) Hôtel
des Hautes Alpes, near the Théâtre Français, and many others in
the neighbourhood.
Hôtel de Castille, Rue Richelieu 101, corner of the Boulevard
des Italiens.
The hotels in the Rue Favart, Place Boieldieu etc., at the back
of the Opéra Comique, are advantageously situated for the visitor
to Paris, less expensive than those of the Boulevards and equally
comfortable: Hôtel Richelieu, Rue Marivaux, R. 4 fr., no charge
for service; Hôtel Favart, adjoining the last. Here, too, are
several excellent restaurants, the Grande Taverne de Londres etc.,
see p. 13.
In the Cité Bergère (Pl., red 7) several unpretending hotels:
No. 8, Hôtel de la Haute Vienne; Batavia etc.
In the new Rue Lafayette, Square Montholon (Pl., red 7),
Hôtel du Square Montholon; beyond it, in the direction of the
Boulevards, the large new Hôtel del Espagna y America; then
the Hôtel d'Angleterre et d'Allemagne.
Hôtel des Deux Mondes, Rue d'Antin 8 (Pl., red 5), next the
Marché St. Honoré and the Place Vendôme.
*Hôtel des Etrangers, Rue Vivienne 3 (Pl., red 7), near the
Palais Royal; table d'hôte 5 fr. incl. wine, R. from 2½ fr., L. 1 fr.
A. 75 c.; not to be confounded with the Hôtel de Walter Scott et
Etrangers in the Quartier Latin (p. 5).
*Hôtel du Grand Périgord, Rue de Grammont 2, between the
Palais Royal and the Boulevard des Italiens, R. 4, table d'hôte
4 fr.; No. 1, Hôtel de Manchester.
*Hôtel Bergère, Rue Bergère 32 and 34 (Pl., red 7), an old
and respectable house, near the Boulevards, R. 2½, B. 1¼,
A. ¾ fr.
Hôtel de Bavière, Rue du Conservatoire 17 (Pl., red 7), R. 3 fr.
and upwards, B 1½, D. at 6 o'cl. 4½ fr.
Hôtel de Lyon et de Berlin, Rue du Conservatoire 7, is well
spoken of.
Hôtel du Pavillon de l'Echiquier, Rue de l'Echiquier 36, corner of
the Rue Hauteville, leading to the Boulevards Bonne Nouvelle and
Poissonnière, R. 2—5, B. 1¼, *table d'hôte 4 fr., L. 60, A. 50 c.
Hôtel Violet, Passage Violet, Rue Hauteville 29, and Rue du
Faubourg Poissonnière 36, near the Boulevards, but distant from
the Palais Royal, R. from 2, D. 4, L. ¾, A. ¾ fr.
Hôtel de France et d'Amérique, Rue de Trévise 10 (Pl., red 7),
R. 2—3, B. 1, D. inc. W. 4 fr.
In the Rue du Helder (Pl., red 5), near the Boulevard
des Italiens, are situated a number of hotels, where the charges
are more moderate than in those on the Boulevard itself: Nr. 8,
Hôtel du Tibre, not expensive, a good restaurant in the same
house; Hôtel du Helder 9 and 10, *de Richmond 11, recommended
for families, but expensive; Lancaster 22.
Hôtel de Bade, Boulevard des Italiens 32, and Rue du Helder 6;
opposite to it, Hôtel des Italiens, Boulevard des Italiens 23,
R. 5 fr., L. 1 fr., A. 1 fr., B. 1½ fr.
At the extremity of the Rue Taitbout, next to the Boulevard
des Italiens, Nos. 4 and 6, Hôtel d'Espagne et de Hongrie, well
spoken of.
Hôtel de l'Opera, a new house, Boulevard des Capucines 5.
Grand Hôtel Doré et des Panoramas, Boulevard Montmartre
(Pl., red 7) 3; No. 10, Grand Hôtel de la Terrasse, with reading-room.
In the Boulevard Poissonnière: No. 30, Hôtel Beau Séjour,
R. from 2 fr., B. 1½ fr.; 32, Hôtel St. Phar, frequented by
French visitors from the S. provinces. Hôtel Rougemont, corner of
the Boulevard and the Rue Rougemont.
Grand Hôtel Louvois, in the quiet Place Louvois, Rue Richelieu
(Pl., red 7), opposite the Bibliothèque Impériale, table d'hôte 4,
R. from 4 fr., B. 1¼, A. ¾ fr.; an old house, most of the rooms
small.
Hôtel des Tuileries, Rue St. Honoré 117, a German house,
reading and smoking rooms.
Hôtel de France et de Champagne, Rue Montmartre 132, near
the Bourse, B. 1 fr., no table d'hôte.
Hôtel de Tours, at the back of the Bourse, Rue Notre Dame
des Victoires 36, a hôtel garni, situated between the Boulevards
and the Palais Royal.
Hôtel Ste. Marie, Rue de Rivoli 83 (Pl., white 7), corner of
the Rue de l'Arbre Sec, not far from the Pont Neuf, in a very
central situation, R. 2—4 fr.
Hôtel Coquillière, Rue Coquillière, near the Palais Royal,
restaurant and table d'hôte, D. at 5. 15 o'cl. 3 fr. excl. wine.
Hôtel Garni Wienrich, Rue Mazagran 11 (Pl., red 7), near the
Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, R. from 2, B. 1½ fr.
Hôtel de France, Rue de Caïre, R. from 2¼ fr., frequented
chiefly by men of business.
The hotels of the Boulevards de Strasbourg, de Sébastopol
and du Prince Eugène are more distant from the focus of traffic,
but it may be convenient to be acquainted with the names of
several, as the influx of visitors to those already mentioned will
probably be overwhelming during the present summer. Hôtels
in the Boulevard de Strasbourg, see p. 2. In the Boulevard de
Sébastopol, No. 20, Hôtel de Sébastopol, 112 Hôtel Meublé; in the
Square des Arts et Métiers, Hôtel Vauban, opposite the Théàtre
de la Gaîté; at the junction of the Boulevard du Prince Eugène
(No. 6) with the Boulevard du Temple, Hôtel International.
The hotels on the Left Bank of the Seine are also less
suitable for travellers whose stay in Paris is limited, as they are
too distant from the Boulevards and the Palais Royal, where the
principal objects of attraction are situated. The hotels of the
Faubourg St. Germain are mostly characterized by an aristocratic
air (Hôtel des Ambassadeurs, Rue de Lille 26; Hôtel des Ministres,
Rue de l'Université 32, etc.), those of the Quartier Latin are of
far more modest pretensions and are chiefly frequented by students.
The following Hôtels Garnis on the l. bank of the Seine, near
the Pont Royal are respectable and not expensive: Hôtel de France,
Rue de Beaune 5; Hôtel de Lorraine, Rue de Beaune 7 (Pl.,
white 5); Hôtel de Béarn. Rue de Lille 38.
In the Boulevard St. Michel, beyond the Ile du Palais, No. 6
(to the r. by the fountain), Hôtel des Principautés; opposite to
it, No. 3, Hôtel d'Harcourt; Nos. 14, 18, 21, 41, 43 are Maisons
Meublées.
The *Hôtel de Londres, Rue Bonaparte 3 (Pl., white 6), near
the Institut de France, is a favourite resort of scientific men.
Maison Meublée, Rue Bonaparte 27, a clean house, with pleasant
court, R. 25—60 fr. per month.
Hôtel de France, Rue Bonaparte 50, rooms at all prices.
Pension Clérambault, Rue Monsieur-le-Prince 39 (Pl, white 8),
near the Jardin du Luxembourg, about 200 fr per month.
The following Hôtels Garnis in the Quartier Latin are
respectable houses, and suitable for the traveller of moderate
R. 20—25 fr. per month; *Hôtel Corneille, Rue Corneille 5,
R. 2—2½ fr. per day, 30—60 fr. per month; Hôtel des Etrangers,
Rue Racine 2, R. 30—60 fr. per month; Hôtel St. Pierre, Rue
de l'Ecole de Médecine 4, R. 25—50 fr. per month, table d'hôte
at 5. 30 and 6. 30 p. m., B. and D. excl. wine 65—70 fr. per
month. — Single rooms at moderate charges can nowhere be procured
so easily as in the Quartier Latin, the great majority of
the houses being fitted up for the reception of lodgers. — *Hôtel
Britannique, Cour du Commerce, near the Rue de l'Ancienne
Comédie (Pl., white 8), a house of modest pretension.
Between Notre Dame and the Jardin des Plantes, on the Quai
de la Tournelle, opposite the bridge of that name (Pl., white 10),
is situated the *Hôtel de la Tour d'Argent, a small but clean and
comfortable house (R. 2 fr.). Opposite to this hotel is situated
the Ecole de Natation de l'île St. Louis, where the water of the
Seine is much purer than in the swimming-baths farther down
the river.
For a stay of some duration, the following lodging-houses
may be mentioned as quiet and pleasantly situated: Maison
Valin, Avenue des Champs Elysées 67 and 69; Maison Neumann,
Rue des Petits Hôtels 12; Hôtel des Provinces, Rue
Geoffroy-Marie 2, Faubourg Montmartre. — Quiet lodgings on
the l. bank of the Seine may be found near the Luxembourg,
opposite to the garden, in the Rue Vaugirard etc.
3. RESTAURANTS.
Paris is indisputably the cradle of high culinary art. The
ordinary tables d'hôte convey to the mind but a feeble idea of
the extent to which this art is carried; the "chefs d'œuvre" must
be sought for in the first-class restaurants. It must, however,
be borne in mind that in one of these establishments the taste
of the connoisseur can hardly be adequately gratified at a less
expenditure than 10—15 fr.
A few of the best and most respectable, especially in the
most frequented situations (Palais Royal, Boulevards etc.) are
here enumerated. The charges are mentioned approximately, but
it should be observed that they have been rising steadily within
the last few years in consequence of the enormous rents paid for
these establishments.
In the large restaurants the portions are usually very ample,
so that one portion suffices for two persons or two portions for
three. The visitor should therefore avoid dining alone. It
is even allowable to order one portion for three persons. In the
establishments of the better class, ladies may always without the
slightest impropriety be of the party.
At some of the less fashionably situated restaurants (see p. 13)
the viands are as good as those in the restaurants of the Palais
Royal and the boulevards, but less expensive.
The Bill of Fare often consists of a book of many pages,
bound in velvet. Whatever dish is selected, it is sure to be found
unexceptionable of its kind. At the smaller restaurants it is
not prudent to order any dish which is not mentioned in the
"carte du jour". The subjoined list is given with a view to make
the stranger acquainted with the names of the commonest dishes
rather than with those of Parisian delicacies. The triumphs of
Parisian culinary skill consist in the different kinds of filet de
bœuf, fricandeaus, mayonnaises and sauces.
Huîtres, oysters 1 fr. 10 c.—2½ fr. per doz.
Potage à la Julienne, soup containing finely cut vegetables.
Potage à la puré aux croûtons, a kind of pea-soup with dice
of toasted bread.
Cornichons, pickled cucumbers.
Oseille, sorrel, very popular in Paris.
Pommes, potatoes (it is not customary to add de terre).
Pommes sautées, potatoes stewed in butter.
Pommes à la maître d'hôtel, potatoes with parsley and butter.
Purée de pommes, mashed potatoes.
Petits pois, green peas (au sucre or au beurre.)
Haricots verts, green beans.
Haricots blancs, white beans, a standard dish among the French
middling classes.
Flageolets, a superior quality of white beans.
Canard aux navets, roasted duck with turnips, a popular dish.
Pieds de cochon à la Sainte Menehould, pig's pettitoes seasoned,
a favourite dish, often exposed to view in shop-windows.
Beefsteak bien cuit, beefsteak well-done, saignant underdone.
Filet de Bœuf, a favourite dish of the French.
Châteaubriand, a kind of beefsteak, but thicker.
Fricandeau, larded veal-cutlet.
Gigot, leg of mutton.
Foie de veau, calves' liver.
Rognons, kidneys.
Poulet, chicken. Un quart de poulet is a sufficient portion
for one person.
Filets de chevreuil, roasted venison.
Perdrix, partridge; aux choux, with cabbage and sausages.
Perdreaux, young partridges.
Sole au gratin, fried sole.
Turbot, turbot; Barbu, a superior description.
Raie, roach. Maquereau, mackerel. Moules, mussels.
Omelettes of different kinds, aux confitures, aux fines herbes,
au fromage, au rhum, aux rognons etc.
Beignets de pommes, apple-fritters.
Meringues, cream-tarts.
Carafe frappée, caraffe of iced water.
Vin frappée, wine in ice.
The wines principally in vogue are (Bordeaux) St. Emilion
and St. Julien (3—4 fr.), Château Larose, Ch. Latour and Ch.
Lafitte (6—8 fr.); Haute Sauternes is a white Bordeaux wine
(3—4 fr.); Pommard and Volnay (4—5 fr.), Romanée and
Chambertin (5—8 fr.) are wines of Burgundy.
Fromage Suisse is a kind of cream-cheese; Fromage de Brie
and Gruyère are also popular; Camembert and Roquefort are most
esteemed in winter. — The long rolls are termed Flutes, the
round Galettes.
It may also be observed that if the diner partakes of the
"hors d'œuvre" presented to him between the courses, consisting
of radishes, prawns (crevettes) etc., his bill will swell into proportions
for which he is not prepared.
The ordinary red table-wine is usually drunk mixed with
water, a precaution highly necessary in the inferior restaurants.
A whole bottle is placed on the table for each person, unless an
express order is given for half a bottle only.
The Parisian dinner-hour is between 5 and 8 o'clock. The
principal restaurants are generally crowded between 6 and 7;
strangers will therefore do well to dine between 5 and 6.
"Garçon, l'addition, s'il vous plaît!" "Waiter, the bill!" The
waiter then brings the account from the "dame de comptoir"; on
receiving payment he expects a fee of 5 or 6 sous (4—5 in the
inferior restaurants). The attention shown to the regular frequenters
of a restaurant is of course mainly dependent on the fees which
the waiters receive from them.
Travellers may generally avail themselves of one of the Tables
d'Hôte (5 or 6 p. m.) at the hotels without being resident in the
house, but in some cases they are required to give previous
notice of their intention.
The "Dîners à Prix-fixe" have within the last few years
come into vogue. They resemble the tables d'hôte, with the
exception that the diner is at liberty to come at any hour between
5 and 8 (déj. from 10 to 1), and is enabled to dine much more
expeditiously; or, if so disposed, he may prolong his repast to
an hour or more. Payment in some instances is made at the door
on entering. In cases where a whole bottle of table-wine is included
in the charge for dinner, half a bottle of a better quality
may always be obtained in its stead. Meats and vegetables are
served separately; those who prefer them together must make
known their wish. The cuisine is scarcely inferior to that of
the best restaurants; these establishments are recommended to
those who are not au fait at ordering a French dinner.
Diners à Prix-fixe in the Palais Royal and Vicinity.
The charges in each case vary according to the quality of the wine desired.
North Side (Galerie Beaujolais), No. 88, Tissot, déjeuner
1 fr. 25 c., dîner 2 fr., with better wine 2½ fr.
West Side (Galerie Montpensier), the pleasantest on hot
afternoons because in the shade: No. 65, Adolphe Tavernier jeune,
D. 2 or 2½ fr.; 40, *Moureau, same charge; 29, Hédouin, D. 2 fr.;
No. 23, Catelain ("Restaurant de Paris"), D. 2 fr.; 36, Café des
Mille Colonnes, déj. 1½, D. 3 fr.; Cinq Arcades, D. 2 or 2½ fr.
East Side (Galerie Valois), No. 172, Restaurant Valois, déj.
1¼, D. 2 or 2½ fr.; 173, Catelain aîné, dej. 1¼, D. 2½ fr.; 167,
Richelieu, same charge; 160, Lemonnier ("Restaurant Henri IV."),
déj. 1¼, D. 1 fr. 60 c.; 154, Dîner Européen, déj. 1 fr. 90 c.,
D. 3 or 3¾ fr., military music opposite this restaurant in the
afternoon; 145, Tavernier aîné, déj. 1¼, D. 2 or 2½ fr.; 137,
Richard, same charges; 123, Restaurant du Havre, D. 1 fr. 30 c.;
116, Demory (Restaurant de la Rotonde), déj. 1¼, D. 2 or 2½ fr.
Near the Palais Royal and the Louvre: Pestel ("Restaurant
St. Honoré"), Rue St. Honoré 248 (Pl., white 5), opposite the
Place du Carrousel, beefsteak 1 fr.
Colbert, Rue Vivienne 2, opposite the N. side of the Palais
Royal, déj. 1¼ fr., D. 1 fr. 80 c.
Catelain, Rue Vivienne 36, D. 2 fr.
Restaurant du Bourgeois de Paris, Passage du Saumon 78, at
the entrance from the Rue Moutmartre 74, déj. 1 fr. 90 c. or
2 fr. 50 c.
*Beaurain, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 16, D. inc. W.,
simple but good, 1 fr. 80 c., from 5 to 7 p. m, a new table
being arranged every ¼ hr.; ladies not admitted.
Maison Dewamin, Rue du Mail 9, a similar establishment,
dinner commences at 5, ladies admitted.
Arnold, Rue Coquillière 33 (Pl., white 7), like the two last,
D. 1 fr. 20 c.
Restaurant Montesquieu, Rue et Passage Montesquieu, D.
1 fr. 90 c.
It may be observed that the proprietors of the smaller restaurants
in the Palais Royal devote more attention to the elegance of their
saloons and the variety of their bills of fare than to the real
excellence of the viands. Such establishments cannot be recommended
as places of regular resort.
Diners à Prix-fixe in the Boulevards etc.
Dîner de Paris (Boulevard Montmartre 12, entrance in the
Passage Jouffroy 11; Pl., red 7), déj. 2, D. 4 fr., the latter including
a bottle of table-wine or half a bottle of superior quality.
*Dîner de Commerce (Passage des Panoramas 24), déjeuner
1 fr. 60 c., dîner 3 fr., couvert d'enfant 1 fr. 50 c.
Dîner du Rocher, Passage Jouffroy 16, déj. 1¾, D. 3 fr. good
for the price.
Pusch, Rue de la Bourse 3, a good and respectable, although
very unpretending restaurant, déj. 1, D. 1 fr.
Restaurants in the Palais Royal and Vicinity.
North Side: No. 98, *Les trois Frères Provençaux, excellent
wines; No. 81, *Véfour (beefsteak 1¾, Mayonnaise de saumon
2½ fr.). These two are the most celebrated of the old-established
Parisian restaurants.
Two others in the Palais Royal of scarcely inferior reputation
are: Duchesne (N.E. side, Nos. 107, 109) and Douix, Café Corazza
(S.W. side, Nos. 9, 11).
West Side: Galerie de Chartres 4—7, is the shop of *Chevet,
an unrivalled emporium of delicacies; dinners, however, are not
provided. Chevet is restaurateur at the Cursaal at Homburg.
Au Bœuf à la Mode, Rue Valois 8, at the extremity of the
Galerie d'Orléans in the Palais Royal, ample portions, good wine.
*Café de Danemarc, Rue St. Honoré 196 (p. 16).
Restaurants in the Boulevards etc.
The even numbers are on the N., the uneven on the S. side.
Boulevard des Capucines (N. side), *Café-Restaurant
de la Paix, first class establishment (beefsteak 1¾ fr.).
Boulevard des Italiens. No. 38, *Café Foy, corner of
the Chaussée d'Antin, excellent but expensive; No. 20, *Maison
Dorée; No. 16, *Café Riche; Café Anglais. These establishments
are first rate and consequently expensive.
*Garny, Passage de l'Opéra 10, at the end of the Galerie de
l'Horloge, Nr. 24; D. 2, déj. 1½ fr.
No. 29, *Café du Helder, déjeuner on the ground-floor, dinner
in the entresol, expensive (filet 1½, ½ fowl 4 fr.).
Boulevard Montmartre. Dîner de Paris and *Dîner de
Commerce see p. 11. Those who desire to make acquaintance with
the Italian cuisine are recommended to go to *Galliani, Passage
des Panoramas, Galerie Montmartre 10 and 12.
Boulevard Poissonnière. No. 30, Vachette, of the first
class; No. 26, *Desirée-Beaurain; No. 8, *Restaurant de France
(beefsteak 1 fr. 20 c., mayonnaise de volaille 1½ fr.); No. 2,
Café Poissonnière.
At the corner of the Rue Rougemont: Hôtel et Restaurant
Rougemont (beefsteak 1 fr. 25 c.).
Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle. No. 24, Restaurant Bonne
Nouvelle.
Boulevard St. Denis. No. 14, Maire, good wines, well
known for the excellence of its "moules" (beefsteak 1 fr.)
Boulevard du Temple. No. 29, *Bonvalet, moderate
charges.
Place de la Bastille. No. 10, Rive Charamante, good and not
expensive.
The two following restaurants deserve commendation, although
less fashionable than many of the above-mentioned: *Philippe,
Rue Montorgueil 70 (Pl., red 7) and *Brébant, Rue Neuve St. Eustache
10 (filet de sole 2, beefsteak 1½ fr.).
The Maison Duval, Rue Montesquieu 6, owns a number of
excellent, though unpretending eating-houses, termed "Etablissements
de Bouillon": Boulevard St. Martin; Boulevard de Sébastopol
144, Rue Rivoli 47, Rue Montmartre 143, Rue des Filles St.
Thomas 7, Rue de la Monnaie 21, Rue Sartine 10, Rue Beauregard
2, Boulevard St. Michel 26. The charges in these houses
are very moderate: beefsteak 50 c., table-wine 80 c. per bottle.
Other houses occasionally style themselves "Maison Duval", but
are of a very inferior description.
*Lucas, Rue de la Madeleine 14 (Pl., red 5), substantial English
cuisine, Engl. beer, not expensive.
*Restaurant de France, Place de la Madeleine 9, Engl. cuisine,
Engl. beer, moderate charges.
Weber, Rue Royale 25 ("His Lordship's Larder"), an Engl.
restaurant of humble pretension.
*Byron's Tavern, Rue Favart 2, corner of the Rue Grétry,
Engl. cuisine, Engl. beer, good wines, D. at 6 o'clock 3 fr.
*Grande Taverne de Londres, Place Boieldieu, in the rear of the
Opéra Comique, everything excellent and not expensive, ample
portions, filet 1, beefsteak 1 fr.).
*Mère Morel, Rue Favart 8, simple but excellent cuisine.
*Café Voisin, Rue St. Honoré 261.
Champeaux, Place de la Bourse 13, of the first class.
Café Talma, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, Passage Choiseul.
Among the numerous restaurants in the Champs Elysées,
the following are recommended.
Restaurant au Petit Moulin Rouge, Avenue d'Antin, opposite
the S.W. pavilion of the Palais de l'Industrie (Pl., red 3), dinner
in the open air, or in the pavilion.
Ledoyen, to the l. at the commencement of the Champs Elysées;
*Marigny, to the r. by the Cirque de l'Impératrice, good
cellar; *Summer and Loesch, Avenue Matignon, by the Circus;
*Laurent, Avenue d'Antin 23; *Ravel, Rue Neuve 2 and Avenue
de l'Impératrice (Pl., red 1), conveniently situated for visitors to
the Bois de Boulogne.
Table d'hôte for those of moderate requirements at Beaurain's,
Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 16, incl. wine 1 fr. 80 c., 5 to 7 o'clock.
Dischinger, Rue de la Bourse 3, a respectable restaurant of
very modest pretensions, B. 1 fr., D. 1 fr.
Boulevard de Sébastopol. No. 9, Café-Restaurant de
la Nouvelle Poste; No. 49, Café de l'Union de Commerce; No. 101,
Restaurant du Square des Arts et Métiers; No. 70, *Etablissement
de Bouillon, good, respectable and very moderate.
On the Left Bank of the Seine. Café d'Orsay, of the first
class, opposite the Pont Royal (Pl., white 5); *Café Desmares,
Rue du Bac 27, expensive; *Blot aîné, Rue de Lille 33, highly
recommended.
In the Quartier Latin restaurants of the second and third
class abound. Among the most respectable may be mentioned:
*Magny, Rue Contre-escarpe Dauphine 3 (Pl., white 8, near the
Pont Neuf); Foyot, Rue de Tournon 33, opposite the entrance of
the Palais du Luxembourg; Restaurant du Luxembourg, Rue de
Vaugirard 22, opposite the palace (Pl., white 8); Café Caron, Rue
des Saints-Pères 22 (Pl., white 6).
Those who desire to dine in the vicinity of the Jardin des
Plantes will find the *Hôtel de la Tour d'Argent (Quai de la
Tournelle 15, opposite the bridge) a respectable house.
Amateurs of Bavarian Beer may visit one of the following
establishments:
Mallet, Faubourg Montmartre 4; *Baumann, Boulevard St.
Martin; *Zöhl's Brasserie, Rue Rougemont 3, D. about 6 o'cl.
2—3 fr.; *Restaurant de la Forêt Noire, Rue d'Enghien; Café du
Midi, Rue Montmartre 50; Frantzen, Rue Mazagran 16; Guillaume
Tell, Boulevard de Strasbourg 18; Fanta, Rue Halévy 4.
At these restaurants, which are principally frequented by Germans,
breakfast, dinner or supper may be procured.
4. CAFÉS.
These establishments should be visited by the stranger
who desires to see Parisian life in all its phases. They
are the after-dinner resort of the great majority of the male
community of Paris. They are also sometimes convenient for
breakfasting; coffee, bread and butter and waiter's fee about
1 fr. 10 c., "thé complet" 1 fr. Ices usually form one of the
specialties of the Parisian café. The demi-tasse of café noir, which
is usually drunk in the afternoon, costs about 40 c., a petit-verre
of cognac 20 c., and the waiter expects 10 c. Those who desire
to dilute their coffee ask for un Mazagran and receive it in a
glass with a bottle of water; un Capucin is a glass of café au
lait. — Beer may also be procured at most of the cafés. "Un
boc", or "une choppe" (25—35 c.) is usually asked for. — Favourite
beverages of the Parisians in warm weather are some of
the following liqueurs diluted with water: Absinthe, Vermouthe,
Cognac, Bitter, Syrope de Groseille, de Framboise, Orgeat etc.
— Out of many hundreds, a few of the best only are here
enumerated.
Cafés in the Palais Royal.
North Side: *Café de la Rotonde, which possesses the sole
privilege of placing chairs and tables outside the door for the
accommodation of customers; well supplied with newspapers.
No. 50, *Café Hollandais; No. 36, Estaminet des Mille Colonnes;
No. 18, Casino Français, concerts in winter.
South Side. Café d'Orléans, Galerie d'Orléans Nos. 34?40
Sueur, Nos. 1—7.
On the N. Side, where the continuation of the Rue Vivienne
opens on the Palais Royal, is situated the subterranean Café des
Aveugles, a place of popular resort, where, in addition to the
usual concomitants of the café, quaint performances are provided
for the amusement of the frequenters. Some good ventriloquism
may usually be heard here.
Cafés in the Boulevards.
Boulevard de la Madeleine. S. side: Café Durand, Place
de la Madeleine 2. Café de Londres, Boulevard de la Madeleine 25.
Boulevard des Capucines. S. side: No. 43, Café du
Congrès; No. 39, Hill's Café, an English restaurant; No. 37, Café
d'Angleterre; No. 1, Café Napolitain, *ices 1 fr. per portion (a
mixture termed "tutti frutti" particularly good).
Boulevard des Italiens. N. side: No. 38, Café Foy; a
restaurant; No. 30, Café de Montmorency. — *Tortoni, of the
first class.
S. side: No. 29, *Café du Helder, a favourite resort of artists;
No. 13, *Café Anglais, principally a restaurant, expensive; Café
du Grand Balcon, frequented by the best billiard-players; *Café
du Cardinal.
N. side: No. 16, Café Riche; No. 14, Café Grétry; Nr. 12,
Café de Paris, all three near the Passage de l'Opéra, frequented
by stockbrokers.
Boulevard Montmartre. N. side: No. 16, Café Mazarin;
No. 12, Café Garen; No. 10, Café des Princes. — S. side: Café
Veron; Café de Suède, adjoining the theatre; Café Montmartre.
Boulevard Poissonnière. Frontin; Café de Madrid, coffee
not served before 8 p. m.
Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle. N. side: No. 44, *Café
Français; No. 39, Déjeuner de Richelieu, excellent chocolate;
No. 30, *Café de la Terrasse, well supplied with newspapers,
recommended for déjeuner; No. 26, Café Séruzier.
Boulevard St. Denis. S. side: Café de Malte, opposite
the Porte St. Martin.
Boulevard St. Martin. No. 26, *Grand Café Parisien,
the largest in Paris, magnificently fitted up, contains 22 billiard-tables,
well deserving of a visit.
Boulevard du Temple. S. side: Jardin Ture, also visited
by ladies.
Boulevard de Sébastopol. No. 17. Café des Halles Centrales,
20 billiard-tables; No. 42, Café-Estaminet des Balcons;
No. 68, Café de l'Epoque; No. 111, Café Brasserie Reinert.
Boulevard de Strasbourg. No. 7, Café de Bade; No. 16,
Café-Concert des Folies; No. 6, Eldorado, café-chantant.
Rue St. Honoré 161, opposite the Palais Royal, *Café de
la Régence, frequented by celebrated chess-players; No. 159, Café
de l'Univers; No. 196, Café de Danemarc also a restaurant.
On the Left Bank of the Seine the following establishments
deserve mention: Café d'Orsay, in the Faubourg St. Germain,
opposite the Pont Royal, handsomely fitted up; *Café Procope,
Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie 13 (Pl., white 8), the oldest-established
Parisian café, once frequented by Voltaire, Rousseau and Diderot;
Café Blot (p. 14); Café Desmares, Rue du Bac 27; *Café de la
Rotonde, Rue de l'École de Médecine 10, well supplied with
newspapers.
Champs Elysées. The various cafés-chantants, which are
to be found here on summer evenings, afford unbounded delight
to the middling and lower classes of Parisians. The performances
are by no means of the first order, but are always conducted
with strict propriety.
Ices (Glaces) at most of the cafés. The best are obtained at
the following places: Tortoni, Boulevard des Italiens; Imoda,
No. 3, Rue St. Honoré; Rouzé, rue Royale St. Honoré 23, opposite
the Madeleine; *Poiré et Blanche, in the Faubourg St. Germain,
Rue St. Dominique 10; Hilaire Rouzé, opposite to the
latter, No. 11; *Neapolitan fruit - ices (p. 15), Boulevard des
Capucines 1 (sorbet is half-frozen syrup or punch).
Confectioners are in Paris divided into two classes, Pâtissiers
and Confiseurs. Of the former class a few of those who enjoy the
highest reputation may be here mentioned: Dubois, Rue Richelieu 92;
Guerre, Rue Castiglione 2, opposite the garden of the Tuileries;
Félix, Rue Vivienne 42; Colombin, Rue du Luxembourg 8; Marion,
"English pastry-cook", Rue Royale St. Honoré 10; Quillet, Rue
de Buci 14; Chiboust, Rue St. Honoré 163; Frascati, Boulevard
Montmartre 23. — The best bons-bons may be purchased at
Boissier's, Boulevard des Capucines 9, or at Terrier's, Rue St.
Honoré 254. — Excellent preserved fruits (conserves) at Jourdain's,
Rue Neuve des Petits Champs 52.
5. BOOKSELLERS, READING ROOMS etc.
Booksellers: Galignani & Co., Rue de Rivoli 224. Publishers
of The Messenger, a daily newspaper in English, containing
the amusements, exhibitions, theatres of the day (weekly 3 fr.).
Truchy, 26 Boulevard des Italiens, librairie française et
anglaise.
Librairie Franck, Rue Richelieu 67; Haar et Steinert, Rue
Jacob 9; F. Klincksieck, Rue de Lille 11; these three especially
for German and French literature.
Reading Rooms: Galignani's Reading-Rooms, Rue de Rivoli
224, are well supplied with English newspapers, admission per
diem 50 c., per fortnight 5 fr.
Cabinet de Lecture in the Passage de l'Opéra, Galerie du Baromètre
11, adm. 25 c., per week 2 fr., fortnight 3 fr. 50 c.
Salon de Lecture, Boulevard Montmartre 12, well supplied,
adm. 25 c.
Salon de Lecture on the left bank of the Seine, Cour du Commerce
7 and 8, adm. 10 c.
These reading-rooms are also convenient places for letter-writing.
Newspapers. Among the most important are Le Siècle,
La Patrie, La Presse, La France, Les Débats, L'Opinion Nationale,
Le Temps, La Liberté, L'Etendard, which are offered in the streets
for sale at 3 sous; also the smaller papers, Le Petit Moniteur, Le
Petit Journal and La Petite Presse at 1 sou. The occasional persual
of these is also recommended as an admirable exercise for the
student of the language.
6. SHOPS, BAZAARS, MARKETS.
Shops. With the exception of the houses in the aristocratic
Faubourg St. Germain, there are few in Paris which have not
shops on the ground-floor. The most brilliant and attractive are
those on the Boulevards, especially the W. portion, in the Palais
Royal, the Rue de la Paix, Rue de Richelieu, Rue Vivienne and
in the new Rue de Rivoli.
Extensive haberdashers: Aux Villes de France, Rue Richelieu 104,
opposite the Passage des Princes, which leads to the Rue Vivienne;
A la Ville de Paris, Rue Montmartre 170. Silk-mercers: Au Louvre,
in the hotel of that name, Rue Rivoli; Compagnie Lyonnaise,
Boulevard des Capucines 37. In the Faubourg St. Germain: Au
Petit St. Thomas, Rue du Bac 27; Au Grand Condé, Rue de
Seine 85, 87.—Gallois-Gignoux, Boulevard de la Madeleine 21—23,
well-known for the rich and attractive display in the windows.
Beautiful copies of antiques in bronze sold by Barbedienne et
Comp., Boulevard Poissonnière 30; in the vicinity, (No. 20) Henri
et Demarson, one of the best shops in Paris for perfumery.
Giroux et Comp., Boulevard des Capucines 43, "bronzes, arts,
fantaisies," one of the largest shops of the kind in Paris. On the
approach of New Year's Day, the whole house is converted into
a vast shop and sometimes contains 1000 visitors at one time. —
Susse Frères, Place de la Bourse 31, a similar establishment.
Goupil et Comp., Boulevard Montmartre 19, engravings.
Cigars, from 5 to 50 c. each, seldom vary in quality in the
different shops, the manufacture and importation of tobacco
being a government monopoly. The principal depôts, however,
are on the Quay d'Orsay 63, and in the Grand Hôtel, Boulevard
des Capucines.
A list of shops where the ordinary requirements of the traveller
will be satisfied is given in the Introduction.
Bazaars. The most extensive is in the Boulevard Bonne
Nouvelle 20—22. Others: Boulevard Montmartre 12, opposite the
Rue Vivienne; Boulevard Poissonnière 27 ("Bazar de l'Industrie
Française"), fixed prices. These establishments afford a pleasant
and entertaining walk.
Dock du Campement, Boulevard Poissonnière 14, in the Maison
du Pont de Fer, a Bazar de Voyage; Godillot, a similar establishment,
Rue de la Paix 25, corner of the Boulevard des Capucines.
Auctions of every variety daily in the Hôtel des Ventes Mobilières,
Rue Drouot 5, at the back of the Grand Opéra; furniture
on the ground-floor; objects of art, pictures, coins etc. usually
on the first floor. The articles may be inspected by the public
on the day or morning previous to the sale. The auctioneers
are termed Commissaires Priseurs. — Book-auctions generally take
place in the evening at the Salle Silvestre, Rue des Bons-Enfants 28,
near the E. side of the Palais Royal.
Markets. The principal Flower-markets are held on Wednesdays
and Saturdays on the quay between the Quai Napoleon and
the Palais de Justice; on Tuesdays and Fridays on the N. and
E. sides of the church of Ste. Madeleine; on Mondays and Thursdays
near the Chàteau d'Eau, Boulevard St Martin, and also in
front of the Church of St. Sulpice.
The new *Halles Centrales, adjoining the church of St. Eustache
(Pl, white 7) are well deserving of a visit. A subterranean
railway is in course of construction to facilitate the introduction
of the commodities into the town. — In the vicinity, in the Place
des Innocents, is the beautiful fountain of that name, the work
of Jean Goujon, one of the victims of St. Bartholomew's night.
Another interesting covered market is the Marché St. Germain,
to the N. of the church of St. Sulpice.
The Halle aux Vins, or wine-depôt of Paris, adjoins the Jardin
des Plantes and extends for nearly half a mile along the bank
of the Seine. Some half million casks here lie in bond, the duty
being paid on their removal. — Ferd. Deiters and Co., Rue Taitbout
5, Boulevard des Italiens, may here be mentioned as one of
the many respectable firms of which pure Bordeaux may be
purchased. The prices per hogshead of 300 bottles (half a
hogshead may also be procured) average as follows: sound Médoc
Médoc 650 fr.; finest quality of the latter 1000 fr.; Château
Lafite, Ch. Latour and Ch. Margaux 1500—1700 fr. English duty
65 fr. (carriage to London 8 fr.), American at present 50 per
cent. of the value.
Marché aux Chevaux, S. of the Jardin des Plantes, on the
Boulevard de l'Hôpital (Pl., blue 10) on Wednesday and Saturday
afternoons. The traffic is principally in cart and other draught
horses. (Horses of superior breed are sold on Thursday 1—4 o'clock
at the "Tattersall Français", Rue Beaujon, and in the Champs
Elysées.) — In the same locality is held a dog-market on Sundays
12—2 o'clock, where many a lost favourite is recognized
and redeemed by its bereaved owner. At the Fourrière des Chiens,
in the adjoining Rue Poliveau, dogs found straying in the streets
are kept and fed for a week, after which they are destroyed if
not reclaimed.
7 BATHS.
Warm Baths in the floating establishments at the Pont Royal
and Pont Neuf.
*Ecole Impériale de Nation, on the Quay d'Orsay, near the
Place de la Concorde (Pl., white 5), admirably fitted up.
Smaller swimming baths at the Pont Royal, *Pont Neuf (descent
at the back of the statue of Henry IV.), *Quai de Béthune, Ile
St-Louis (p. 8) and at Asnières, station on the railway to Versailles.
Charges at all these baths 1 fr. incl. towel etc.
The best establishment for mineral-baths, Turkish baths etc.
is the *Bains de Tivoli, Rue St. Lazare 102, near the Havre
railway station. The Etablissement Hydrothérapique du Dr. Landey
at Auteuil, Rue Boileau 10, is especially recommended for invalids.
In these two "Maisons de Santé" patients are accommodated with
board, lodging, baths and medical attendance on terms varying
from 150 to 1000 fr. per month.
Other bath-houses are: *Rue Ste. Anne 63; Rue Vivienne 47;
Rue du Temple 191.
Sea-water baths in the floating vessel at the Pont Royal
(Pl., white 5).
8. VOITURES.
By a decree of May 23rd, 1866 the former distinction between
Fiacres (Voitures de Place) and Voitures de Remise was abolished
and the following "Tarif Maximum" appointed for both, provided
the latter are hired in the street (not from a "remise"). Une
Course is a single drive, à l'heure by time, in which case the
hirer shows his watch to the driver.
| Within the City. | From 6 a. m. in summer (March 31st to Oct. 1st), and from 7 a.m. in winter (Oct. 1st to March 31st), till 12. 30 at night: |
From 12. 30 at night till 6 a. m. in summer (March 31st to Oct. 1st), and till 7 a. m. in winter (Oct. 1st to March 31st): |
||
| La Course | A l'heure | La Course | A l'heure | |
| Carr. for 2—3 pers. | 1 fr. 50 c. | 2 fr. — c. | 2 fr. 25 c. | 2 fr. 50 c. |
| Carr. for 4—5 pers. | 1 fr. 70 c. | 2 fr. 25 c. | 2 fr. 50 c. | 2 fr. 75 c. |
| Carr. from a remise | ||||
| for 2—3 pers. | 1 fr. 80 c. | 2 fr. 25 c. | 3 fr. — c. | 3 fr. — c. |
| for 4—5 pers. | 2 fr. — c. | 2 fr. 50 c. | ||
| Without the Fortifications. |
From 6 a. m. till 12 at night in summer (May 31st to Oct. 1st), or from 6 a. m. till 10 p. m. in winter (Oct. 1st to May 31st). Same charge for une course as for une heure. |
|||
| When the hirer returns to the town in the same carriage: |
When the hirer dismisses the carr. without the fortifications, he must make additional payment for the return-drive: |
|||
| Carr. for 2—3 pers. | 2 fr. 50 c. | 1 fr. — c. | ||
| Carr. for 4—5 pers. | 2 fr. 75 c. | |||
| Carr. from a remise | ||||
| for 2—3 pers. | 3 fr. — c. | 2 fr. — c. | ||
| for 4—5 pers. | ||||
The same charge is made for luggage in carriages of either of
the above classes: for 1 box 25 c., 2 boxes 35, 3 or more 75 c.
The driver is bound to place it on and remove it from the
vehicle. No charge for small articles which are taken inside.
The following places are situated beyond the fortifications:
Bois de Boulogne, Bois de Vincennes, and the adjacent parishes
of Charenton, Le Pré St. Gervais. St. Mandé, Montreuil, Bagnolet,
Romainville, Pantin, Aubervilliers, St. Ouen, St. Denis, Clichy,
Neuilly, Boulogne, Issy, Vanves, Montrouge, Arcueil, Gentilly,
Ivry, Vincennes.
The following are among the principal Stands: by the Madeleine,
on all the principal Boulevards, Place de la Bourse, Place
de la Bastille, du Palais Royal, St. Sulpice, de la Concorde,
Louvois, du Louvre, on the quays and at all the railway-stations.
Some of the more important regulations, of which every driver
must possess a copy, are here given.
If a carriage is sent for and kept waiting more than ¼ hr.
the charge for 1 hr. must be paid; if it is sent back at once,
half a course, if after ¼ hr. a whole course must be paid.
If the carriage be hired for a course, the driver may select
his own route; if à l'heure, he must obey the directions of his
of the course, no additional charge can be made, unless luggage
placed outside the vehicle is also removed, in which case one
hour must be paid for.
In hiring by time, the entire first hour must always be paid
for, after which the time may be reckoned by spaces of 5 min.
When per hour at:
| MINUTES: | 5 | 10 | 15 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 35 | 40 | 45 | 50 | 55 |
| fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | fr. c. | |
| 2 fr. | fr. 20 | fr. 35 | fr. 50 | fr. 70 | fr. 85 | 1 c. | 1 20 | 1 35 | 1 50 | 1 70 | 1 85 |
| 2 fr. 25 | fr. 20 | fr. 40 | fr. 60 | fr. 75 | fr. 95 | 1 15 | 1 35 | 1 50 | 1 70 | 1 90 | 2 10 |
| 2 fr. 50 | fr. 25 | fr. 45 | fr. 65 | fr. 85 | 1 05 | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 70 | 1 90 | 2 10 | 2 30 |
| 2 fr. 75 | fr. 25 | fr. 50 | fr. 70 | fr. 95 | 1 15 | 1 40 | 1 60 | 1 85 | 2 10 | 2 30 | 2 55 |
| 3 fr. | fr. 25 | fr. 50 | fr. 75 | 1 95 | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 75 | 2 85 | 2 25 | 2 50 | 2 75 |
If the carriage is engaged before 12. 30 at night the day-charges
only can be demanded, if before 6 (or 7) a. m. the night-charges
must be paid, although the drive be prolonged beyond
these limits.
Drivers are not bound to convey passengers without the fortifications
between midnight (or in winter 10 p. m.) and 6 a. m.
If the horses have been used without the fortificatons for
2 consecutive hours, the driver can demand a rest of 20 min. at
the expense of the hirer.
If a carriage is engaged without the fortifications to return
to the town, the town-charges alone can be exacted; in the reverse
case, the increased rate is paid from the moment the fortifications
are passed.
If the hirer's destination is a theatre, concert-room etc., he
must pay in advance.
Bridge-toll is paid by the driver, unless the crossing has taken
place at the express desire of the hirer.
Gratuities cannot be demanded by the drivers, but it is
usual to give 10—20 c. per course, or 25—50 per hour, in addition
to the fare.
Those who are desirous of exploring Paris expeditiously and
comfortably are recommended to hire a Voiture de Remise by the
day (25—30 fr.) or by the week ("Combien, par jour, pourboire
compris, pour une voiture à deux ou à quatre places, avec un
ou deux chevaux? La voiture sera à ma disposition de huit
heures du matin à huit heures du soir, et ira au Bois de Bologne,
à Saint-Denis, à Saint-Cloud et à Sèvres.")
9. OMNIBUSES.
There are 31 different lines of omnibuses in Paris, all of
which belong to one company. They are distinguished by the
letters of the alphabet, the colour of their lanterns and of the
vehicles themselves. In the annexed list the starting-point and
plan at the end of the book.
| From | to | Omnibus | Lantern. |
| A. Palais-Royal (white 7) |
Passy and Auteuil (white 1) |
yellow | red |
| B. Chemin de fer de Strasbourg (red 9) |
Chaillot (r. 2) | yellow | red and green |
| C. Louvre (w. 7) | Courbevoie (r. 3) | yellow | red |
| D. Ternes (r. 2) | Boul. Filles du Calvaire (w. 9) |
yellow | red |
| E. Bastille (w. 10) | Madeleine (r. 5) | yellow | red |
| F. Bastille (w. 10) | Monceaux (r. 6) | dark brown | red |
| G. Jardin des Plantes (w. 10) |
Batignolles (r. 6) | brown | green |
| H. Odéon (w. 8) | Avenue de Clichy (r. 6) |
yellow | red |
| I. Place Maubert (w. 8) |
Montmartre (r. 8) | green | red |
| J. Barrière de Pigale (r. 6) |
Glacière (bl. 7) | yellow | red |
| K. Collége de France (w. 8) |
La Chapelle (r. 10) | yellow | green and red |
| L. Saint-Sulpice (w. 6) |
Villette (r. 10) | yellow | red |
| M. Belleville (r. 11) | Ternes (r. 2) | yellow | green and red |
| N. Belleville (r. 11) | Place des Victoires (w. 7) |
green | red |
| O. Ménilmontant (r. 11) |
Chaussée du Maine (bl. 6) |
green | red and green |
| P. Barrière de Fontainebleau (bl. 9) |
Charonne (w. 13) | yellow | red and green |
| Q. Palais-Royal (w. 7) |
Place du Trône (w. 14) |
yellow | red |
| R. Barr. Charenton (bl. 14) |
Faub. St. Honoré (r. 5) |
green | blue and red |
| S. Louvre (w. 7) | Bercy (bl. 13) | yellow | red and white |
| T. Place Cadet (r. 8) | Gare d'Ivry (bl. 11) | yellow | yellow |
| U. Pointe St. Eustache (w. 7) |
Maison Blanche (Barrière de Fontainebleau) (bl. 9) |
yellow | green and red |
| V. Chemin de fer du Nord (r. 10) |
Bar. du Maine (bl. 6) | brown | green and red |
| X. Place du Havre (r. 5) |
Vaugirard (bl. 4) | yellow | green and red |
| Y. Porte St. Martin (r. 9) |
Grenelle (w. 2) | brown | red and white |
| Z. Bastille (w. 10) | Grenelle (w. 2) | brown | green |
| AB. Place de la Bourse (r. 7) |
Passy (w. 1) | green | green |
| AC. Cours la Reine (w. 3) |
Petite Villette (r. 10) | green | red and green |
| AD. Château d'Eau (r.9) | Pont de l'Alma (w. 1) | green | green |
| AE. Arts et Métiers (r. 7) |
Vincennes (w. 14) | green | green |
| AF. Parc de Monceaux (r. 5) |
Panthéon (bl. 8) | green | red |
| AG. Chemin de fer de l'Est (r. 10) |
Montrouge (bl 3) | brown | green |
It must, however, be observed that Parisians themselves find
it difficult to form a thorough acquaintance with the above
labyrinth of routes. The stranger who makes a stay in Paris of
some duration and desires to avail himself of these conveyances,
should purchase an omnibus-map of Paris (1 fr.), or a Clef des
Omnibus (15 c.), which are to be had at the omnibus offices.
The fares for all the above routes are the same, 30 c. inside
and 15 c. outside (impériale). If the omnibus does not go in the
direct route to the passenger's destination, he may apply to the
conductor for a "correspondance" with the line which will convey
him thither. He will then receive a "bulletin" or receipt for
his fare and a "cachet" or check-ticket and will be set down at
the point where the two lines cross. Here he proceeds to the
omnibus-bureau and receives a new cachet which, without any
additional payment, entitles him to a seat in the first omnibus
going in the desired direction. Outside passengers are not entitled
to correspondance, unless they pay the full fare (30 c.).
On Sundays and holidays tickets are not issued on some lines.
When the omnibuses are full, the conductor exhibits a ticket
announcing that his vehicle is "complet".
The principal omnibus-bureau is in the Place du Palais Royal,
situated in the very heart of the city. Other offices are at the
following places: Boulevard de la Madeleine 27, des Italiens 8,
du Temple, des Filles du Calvaire, de la Bastille 2, Porte
St. Martin etc. — On the Left Bank of the Seine: Place St. Sulpice
6, 8 and 10, at the Odéon, Pont Neuf, Place du Palais de
Justice etc.
Horse Railway (Chemin de Fer Américain), Rue du Louvre 8
(opposite the colonnade), from 9 a. m. every hour (in summer
oftener) viâ
Passy, Auteuil, Bois de Boulogne, Le Point du Jour and
Boulogne to the Pont de St. Cloud, and viâ
Auteuil, Billaucourt, Sèvres and Viroflay to Versailles.
10. RAILWAY-STATIONS. RAILWAY-OMNIBUSES.
Paris possessês eight railway-stations (embarcadères de chemin
de fer). On the Right Bank of the Seine are the following:
1. Rue St. Lazare (Pl., red 6) (Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest,
Lignes de Banlieue, Lignes de Normandie, Ligne de Ceinture),
St. Germain, Argenteuil, Rouen, Havre, Dieppe, Fécamp, Caen.
Cherbourg, and for the branch line to Auteuil and the Bois de
Boulogne.
Special Omnibus (25 c.), to correspond with all the trains
starting from this station, from the Place de la Bourse, Boulevard
Bonne Nouvelle 14, Pointe St. Eustache, Place St. André des
Arts 9, Place du Palais Royal, Place du Bouloi 7 and 9.
2. Place Roubaix (Pl., red 10) (Chemin de Fer du Nord)
for London, Brussels. Cologne.
Bureaux Succursales: Rue de Rivoli, in the Hôtel du Louvre;
No. 228, in the Hôtel Meurice; 170, Hôtel des Trois Empereurs;
Hôtel Bedford, Rue de l'Arcade 17 and 19; Hôtel de Lille et d'Albion, Rue St. Honoré 211; Rue Bonaparte 59; Boulevard de
Sébastopol 33; Place de la Bourse 6; Rue St. Martin 326; Rue
Charlot 3. Omnibuses to the station from all these offices, and
also from the Grand Hôtel, Boulevard des Capucines, and Rue
Aubry le Boucher 24. Fares 30 c., and 30 c. for luggage under
60 lbs., for every additional 2 lbs. 1 c.; if the omnibus deviates
from its ordinary route, 60 c. for each pers.
3. Place de Strasbourg (Pl., red 10) (Chemin de Fer de
l'Est), in the immediate vicinity of the Station du Nord, for Strasbourg
and the lines to Mannheim, Rheims, Metz, Troyes, Bâle.
Bureau Succursales: Rue du Bouloi 7 and 9; Boulevard de
Sébastopol 34; Rue Quincampoix 47 and 49; Place de la Bastille,
at the station of the Vincennes line; Place St. Sulpice 6. Omni-
buses from these offices, and also from the Hôtel du Louvre, and
Rue St. Martin 295. Fares: 30 c., luggage 30 c.
4. Boulevard Mazas (Pl., blue 12) (Chemin de Fer de
Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée) for Fontainebleau, Lyons, Marseilles.
(Opposite the station, to the N., is situated the Prison
Mazas, capable of containing 1260 prisoners in solitary confinement).
Bureaux Succursales: Rue Neuve des Mathurins 44; Rue
Rossini 1; Rue Coq Héron 6; Rue Bonaparte 59 and Place St.
Sulpice 12; Boulevard de Strasbourg 5; Rue Rambuteau 6.
Omnibuses from these offices to the station; fares 30 c., after
midnight 50 c.
5. Place de la Bastille (Pl., white 10) for Vincennes.
Special Omnibus from the Place de la Bourse 12.
On the Left Bank of the Seine:
6. Boulevard de l'Hôpital (Pl., blue 10), adjoining the
Jardin des Plantes (new station in course of construction), for
Fontainebleau, Orléans, Nevers, Bourges, Le Mans, St. Nazaire, La
Rochelle, Rochefort, Limoges, Blois, Tours, Angers, Nantes, Bordeaux,
Bayonne. - Bureau Central: Rue de Grenelle St. Honoré 18.
Special Omnibus from the Rue St. Honoré 130, Rue Notre
Dame des Victoires 28, Rue Coq Héron 17, Rue Lepelletier 15,
Rue de Londres 8, Rue de Chabrol 53, Boulevard de Sébastopol 54;
Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth 30, Rue de Babylone 7; Place St.
Sulpice 6; Place de la Madeleine 7.
7. Barrière d'Enfer (Pl., blue 5) for Sceaux and Orsay.
Special Omnibus (30 c., and luggage 30 c.) from the Rue
St. Honoré 130, Rue de Londres 8; Place St. Sulpice.
8. Boulevard Montparnasse 44 (Pl., blue 6) (Chemin
de Fer de l'Ouest, Ligne de Bretagne) for Versailles (rive gauche),
Rambouillet, Chartres, Le Mans, Alençon, Rennes, Brest. — Bureaux
succursales: Rue Coq Héron 5, Rue St. Martin 300.
Special Omnibus from the Place de la Bourse, Rue St. Martin
326, Rue de Bourtibourg 4, Place St. André des Arts 9, Rue
Royale St. Honoré 24, Place du Palais Royal.
11. STEAMBOATS.
Small steamers ply on the Seine between the Pont Royal and
St. Cloud, descending in ¾ hr., returning in 1½ hr.; fares
50 c.—1 fr. The trip is a pleasant one, the landscape picturesque
and animated.
12. THEATRES.
The representations commence at various hours between 6 and
8 o'clock, and generally last till midnight. As the hours for
opening the doors are frequently changed, the play-bills should
always be consulted beforehand.
The theatres present to the stranger a highly characteristic
phase of Parísían life, and he should on no account omit to visit
all the principal ones. As, however, some acquaintance with the
colloquial and slang expressions of every day life is requisite,
and cannot be acquired without a sojourn in Paris of considerable
duration, strangers are strongly recommended to purchase the
play to be performed, and peruse it carefully beforehand. Tresse,
Palais Royal, Galerie de Chartres 2, 3, may be mentioned as a
dealer in all kinds of dramatic compositions.
The best places are the stalls in front of the orchestra (fauteuils
d'orchestre), behind which are the stalles d'orchestre; those behind
the pit (stalles d'amphithéâtre), and those in front of the first tier
of boxes (fauteuils de balcon, de la première galerie). Ladies are
not admitted in all the theatres to the orchestra stalls.
It is a wise precaution, especially in the case of very popular
representations, to secure a good seat by purchasing a billet de
location beforehand at the office of the theatre, or at the principal
office (location-office des théâtres) in the morning. The visitor
should be careful to select a numéro de face and not de côté.
bureau, i. e. at the door, but the purchaser has the satisfaction
of knowing that his seat is reserved. Strangers are particularly
cautioned against purchasing tickets from "valets de place" and
similar individuals, who frequently hover about in the vicinity of
the theatres and endeavour to impose on the public.
The Parterre or pit is always crowded. Those who wish to
secure a tolerable seat in this part of the theatre should be at
the door at least an hour before the commencement of the play,
and, with the exact entrance-money in hand, fall into the rank
(faire queue) of other expectants. Frequenters of the pit, on
leaving the theatre between the acts, usually secure their seats
by attaching their handkerchiefs to the bench.
In order to become acquainted with the internal arrangements
of each theatre, the stranger should consult the plan of the building
at the office. Most of them have their premières, deuxièmes,
troisièmes de face or de côté (box-places in the first, second or
third row, in front or at the side), baignoires or loges de rez-dechaussée
(pit-boxes) etc. The best places for ladies are the boxes
and the fauteuils de balcon.
The Claque (or les Romains), or paid applauders, form an
annoying, although characteristic feature in most of the theatres.
They usually occupy the best seats in the pit and are easily recognized
by the simultaneous and energetic concussions of their
vulgar palms. There are even "entrepreneurs de succès dramatiques",
a species of mercantile adventurers who furnish theatres with claques
at stated terms. Strange as it may seem to the English visitor,
all attempts to abolish this nuisance have hitherto failed.
Paris contains upwards of 30 theatres. In consequence, however,
of a decree of January 7th., 1864, the number will soon
increase (comp. p. 29), additional facilities for the erection of new
theatres being thereby granted, and certain monopolies abolished.
A list of the most important, according to the order fixed by
the police, is here annexed.
The Opéra, Rue Lepelletier 12 and Rue Drouot (Pl., red 7),
to the N. of the Boulevard des Italiens ("Grand-Opéra, Académie
impériale de Musique"), was founded in 1671, and, in consequence
of the murder of the Duc de Berry (p. 99), removed to its present
site in 1821. The building will eventually be superseded by a
new structure near the Boulevard des Capucines, opposite the Rue
de la Paix, now in course of construction and to be completed
in 1871. The government contributes 800,000 fr. (32,000 L.)
annually towards its support, to which 100,000 fr. (4000 L.) is
added by the Emperor from the civil list; the gross annual receipts
are about 1,200,000 fr. The staff of performers is about
250 in number; a good tenor receives a salary of 80,000 fr.
(3200 L.); composers and authors of new pieces are each paid
subsequent representation. The scenery and ballet are unrivalled.
The house is capable of accommodating 1950 persons. Office
in the Rue Drouot, generally open at 10 a. m. Representations
on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Stalles d'amphithéâtre
12 fr. (location 14 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 10 fr. (location 12 fr.);
pit (seats numbered) 5 fr. (location the same).
The Théâtre Français, Rue Richelieu 6, in the new Place
de l'Impératrice (Pl., white 7), on the S.W. side of the Palais
Royal, was at one time exclusively devoted to the highest order
of dramatic composition. Although this is now no longer the
case, it is still considered to occupy the highest rank, and the
government contributes 240,000 fr. to its support; the acting is
admirable and the plays generally are of the best description.
The actors style themselves "comédiens ordinaires de l'Empereur".
This theatre was founded in 1600, and was under the superintendence
of Molière from 1658 until his death in 1673. Voltaire's
Irène was represented here in 1768 and received with thunders
of applause; the author, then in his 84th year, was present on
the occasion. — Seats for 1500. Fauteuils d'orchestre 5 fr. (location
7 fr.), stalles d'orchestre 4 fr., parterre 2 fr. 50 c.
The Odéon, Place de l'Odéon (Pl., white 8), near the Palais
du Luxembourg, ranks next to the Théâtre Français, and is devoted
principally to the performance of the most classical dramas.
One of the reasons which Louis XVI. assigned for the erection
of this theatre in 1779 was, "que nos sujets, avant d'entrer et en
sortant du spectacle, auront à proximité une promenade dans les
jardins du Luxembourg". The "promenade en sortant" is, however,
no longer practicable, as the Luxembourg gardens are closed
at sunset. — Seats for 1700. Fauteuils d'orchestre (to which
ladies are admitted) 5 fr.; (location 7 fr.), parterre 2 fr. (location
3 fr.); no representations in summer.
The Opéra Comique, Place Boieldieu or des Italiens
(Pl., red 7), is devoted to the performance of the lesser operas,
the Dame Blanche, Postillon de Lonjumeau, Fra Diavolo, Domino
Noir, Etoile du Nord etc. It receives an annual contribution of
240,000 fr. from government. — Seats for 1800. Fauteuils d'orchestre
6 fr. (location 8 fr.), fauteuils de balcon 7 fr. (location
8 fr.), fauteils de la première galerie 7 fr. (location 8 fr.); stalles
d'orchestre 4 fr. (location 5 fr.) parterre 2½ fr.
The Théâtre Italien or Italian Opera, is situated to the S.
of the Boulevard des Italiens, in the Place Ventadour (Pl., red 5):
entrance on the N. side from the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, on
the S. from the Rue des Petis Champs. Representations on Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays; performances of the highest
class; admirable staff of performers. The claque (p. 26) has
the prices are considerably raised. — Seats for 1700. Fauteuils
d'orchestre (ladies admitted) and stalles de balcon 12 fr.; stalles
d'orchestre (formerly the parterre) 6 fr. Location not more expensive;
1re loge 15, 2de loge 9, 3me loge 5 fr.
The Théâtre Lyrique, Place du Châtelet (Pl., white 7),
is destined for the operas of French composers, and for those of
Mozart and Weber. It was founded as a Théâtre Historique by
Alex. Dumas in 1847, on the Boulevard du Temple, whence it
was removed to the present building in 1862. — Seats for 1600.
Ladies admitted to all. Fauteuils d'orchestre 6 fr. (location 7 fr.);
parterre 2½ fr.
The Théâtre du Gymnase Dramatique, Boulevard Bonne
Nouvelle 38 (Pl., red 7), for vaudevilles and comedies, is deserving
of commendation. Its pieces are frequently deemed worthy
of being represented in the Théâtre Français. Scribe wrote most of
his plays for this theatre, which enabled him to amass a considerable
fortune. His country-seat at Céricourt bore the inscription:
Vous qui passez, merci! je vous le dois peut-être."
8 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 5 fr. (location 6 fr.), parterre
2 fr. 50 c. (location 3 fr.).
Théâtre du Vaudeville, Rue Vivienne 29, Place de la
Bourse (Pl., red 7). The present building is about to be taken
down to make room for the new Rue Réaumur, and will eventually
be superseded by a new structure, already commenced, at
the corner of the Chaussée d'Autin and the Boulevard des Capucines.
— Seats for 1300. Fauteuils d'orchestre and de galerie
5 fr. (location 7 fr.).
Théâtre des Variétés, Boulevard Montmartre 7 (Pl., red 7),
for Vaudevilles and farces. Seats for 1240. Fauteuils d'orchestre
and de balcon 5 fr. (location 7 fr.), parterre 2 fr. 50 c.
Théâtre du Palais Royal, at the N.W. corner of the
Palais Royal 74, 75 (Pl, white 7), a small but very popular
theatre for Vaudevilles and farces, occasionally not altogether of
an unexceptionable description. Seats for 950. Stalles and
loges de balcon, and loges de galerie and d'orchestre 5 fr. (location
6 fr.); parterre 2 fr.
Théâtre de la Porte St. Martin, Boulevard St. Martin
16, 18 (Pl., red 9), for plays and ballet, one of the largest in
Paris. The best pieces of Victor Hugo, Alex Dumas and other
eminent dramatists were here performed for the first time. — Seats
for 1800. Fauteuils de balcon 5 fr. (location 7 fr.); fauteuils
d'orchestre 5 fr. (location 8 fr.); parterre 2 fr.
Théâtre de la Gaîté, Square des Arts et Métiers (Pl.,
red 9), for melodramatic pieces, newly fitted up in 1861—62.
— Seats for 1800. Fauteuils d'orchestre 4 fr. (location 5 fr.);
stalles d'orchestre 2½ fr.; parterre 1½ fr.
Théâtre de l'Ambigu-Comique, Boulevard St. Martin 2
(Pl., red 9), for melodramas and vaudevilles. Fauteuils d'orchestre
5 fr. (location 6 fr.); stalles d'orchestre 3 fr.; parterre 1½ fr.
Bouffes Parisiens, Passage Choiseul (Pl., red 5), adjacent
to the Italian Opera, for vaudevilles, comedies and especially
operettas. — Fauteuils d'orchestre 5 fr. (location 7 fr.), balcon du
2de étage 4 fr.; fauteuil du 2de étage 3 fr.
Théâtre Impérial du Châtelet, Place du Châtelet (Pl.,
white 7), for military melodramas, especially Napoleonic, magic
pieces and ballets. — Seats for 3352. Fauteuils d'orchestre 5 fr.;
stalles d'orchestre 4 fr. (location 5 fr.); parterre 2 fr.
Théâtre des Folies Dramatiques, Rue de Bondy 40,
for vaudevilles and farces, good comic acting. — Fauteuils d'orchestre
3 fr.; stalles d'orchestre 1 fr. 50 c.; parterre 1 fr.
Théâtre des Délassements Comiques, Boulevard du
Prince Eugène. — Seats for 500. Fauteuils d'orchestre 3 fr.;
stalles d'orchestre 2 fr.
Théâtre Déjazet, Boulevard du Temple 41, for vaudevilles
and farces. Avant-scène des premières 5 fr.; orchestre 1 fr. 50 c.;
parterre 1 fr.
Théâtre Beaumarchais, Boulevard Beaumarchais 55 (Pl.,
white 10), for farces and vaudevilles. — Fauteuils d'orchestre
2 fr. 25 c.; stalles d'orchestre 1 fr. 75 c.; parterre 1 fr.
Théâtre Séraphin, Boulevard Montmartre 12, for ombres
chinois, magic lantern and marionette representations.
The following are of very recent origin (1865—1867), having
sprung up in consequence of the abolition of the former monopolies:
Folies Marigny, in the Champs Elysées, for operettas,
vaudevilles etc. Stalles d'orchestre 2 fr.; orchestre 1 fr. 25 c.
Théâtre des Fantaisies Parisiennes, Boulevard des
Italiens 26, for operettas and pantomimes. Fauteuils d'orchestre
and de balcon 5 fr.; stalles d'orchestre 3 fr.
Théâtre Robino, transferred in 1866 to the Boulevard de
Strasbourg, for vaudevilles and dramas. Fauteuils d'orchestre
2 fr.; stalles d'orchestre 1 fr. 25 c.
Grand Théâtre Parisien, Rue de Lyon 12, near the Bastille
(fauteuils d'orchestre 2 fr.), and Théâtre des Nouveautés,
Rue du Faubourg St. Martin 60 (fauteuils d'orchestre 2 fr. 50 c.),
both for vaudevilles.
These are the most considerable of the Parisian theatres. The
others of minor importance are principally situated in the suburbs.
The Cirque de l'Impératrice in the Champs Elysées at
the Rond-Point (Pl., red 3). the Cirque Napoléon, in the
Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire (Pl., white 9), the Hippodrôme,
to the W. of the Avenue de l'Impératrice, between the
Barrière de l'Etoile and the Bois de Boulogne (Pl., red 1), and
the Cirque du Prince Impérial (opened in 1866), Rue de
Malte 6, near the Boulevard du Prince Eugène, are also deserving
of mention. The representations are precisely similar to those of
English circuses; they are, however, worthy of a visit on account
of their tasteful arrangement and vast dimensions. The Hippodrôme
is the largest and is capable of containing 10,000 persons.
— Admission 1—2 fr.
Conjurers: Hamilton, Boulevard des Italiens 8, representations
at 8 p. m. (admission 1½—4 fr.). — Robin, Boulevard du
Temple 49 (admission 75 c. — 4 fr.).
13. CONCERTS AND BALLS.
The concerts of the Conservatoire de Musique, Rue du Faubourg
Poissonnière 15, of European celebrity, take place once a
fortnight, from January to April. The highest order of classical
music (Haydn, Beethoven, Mendelssohn etc.) is performed with the
most exquisite taste and precision. Strangers cannot easily obtain
access to them, as almost all the seats are occupied by regular
subscribers. Application may, however, be made, on the
Friday following a concert, at the office, Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière
15. Balcon and premières loges 9 fr.; stalles d'orchestre,
loges du rez-de-chaussée, couloirs d'orchestre and du balcon, and
secondes loges 6 fr.; parterre and amphithéâtre 3 fr.; side-boxes
2 fr.
Regular concerts are given at the "Concert de Paris", Rue du
Helder 19, near the Boulevard; admission 1—2 fr.; in summer
frequently closed.
Besides the above, there are a number of other concerts-rooms;
Herz, Rue de la Victoire; Ste. Cécile, Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin;
Erard, Rue du Mail; Pleyel, Rue Rochechouart; Sax, Rue St.
George. — Lent is the principal season for concerts in Paris.
The concerts of the Cafés Chantants are generally of a very
inferior description. Those in the Champs Elysées (p. 16) attract
numerous visitors in summer. The Café des Aveugles in the Palais
Royal also belongs to this class. The following are among the
best of these establishments: Eldorado, Boulevard de Strasbourg,
handsomely decorated hall; vocal performances every evening from
7 to 11 o'clock, which of late years have acquired a certain celebrity
from the appearance (in winter daily) of Mlle. Thérèse.
Casino Français, in the Palais Royal, Galerie Montpensier 18,
Chinois, Boulevard du Prince Eugène 50.
The public Balls ("Soirées Musicales et Dansantes"), although
the society is by no means always of the most select description,
deserve to be visited by the stranger on account of the gay,
brilliant and novel spectacle they present. The following establishments
are perhaps the most respectable: Jardin Mabille,
recently united with the former Château des Fleurs, near the
Rond-Point, in the Allée des Veuves (Avenue Montaigne; Pl.,
red 3), Champs Elysées, brillantly lighted and handsomely decorated,
balls daily, admission 2—3 fr.; Chalet des Iles in the Bois
de Boulogne (p. 90); Casino d'Asnières (p. 168), in summer only,
generally on Thursdays.
The Masked Balls of the Grand Opéra, which last from
the middle of December till Lent, and take place every Saturday
evening, may be regarded as another characteristic phase of Parisian
life (admission 10 fr.). They present a scene of the most
unbridled and boisterous merriment and excitement, and where
ladies are of the party should be witnessed by strangers from the
boxes only. The female frequenters of these balls always wear
masks or dominoes, the men are generally in evening costume.
14. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS.
Nothing will serve to convey to the stranger so good an idea
of the general aspect and topography of the French metropolis
as a drive on the top of an omnibus or in an open carriage through
the principal streets. The vehicle should of course in this case
be engaged à l'heure, and the driver desired to convey the visitor
through the town by the following route.
The Palais Royal is selected as the most convenient starting-point.
Thence through the Rue de Rivoli to the Place de la
Concorde (p. 78), the Champs Elysées (p. 82), Palais de l'Industrie
(p. 83), Arc de l'Etoile (p. 85); down to the Pont d'Iéna,
Champ de Mars; Hôtel des Invalides (p. 155), Boulevard des Invalides,
Boulevard du Mont Parnasse, at the extremity of which,
to the r., is situated the Observatoire (p. 134); thence to the l.,
to the Boulevard St. Michel, along the Boulevard, passing Ney's
monument, the Jardin du Luxembourg (p. 133), the Panthéon (p. 138),
the extremity of the Rue Soufflot and the Palais de Justice (p. 94),
near which the two bridges are crossed; then to the r. through
the Rue de Rivoli, passing the Tour St. Jacques (p. 46) and the
Hôtel de Ville (p. 92); through the Rue St. Antoine to the Place
de la Bastille and the July Column, then along the old Boulevards
(see p. 33) to the Madeleine.
The drive will occupy about 3 hrs. and (according as the
vehicle is hired at 2 fr. or 2½ fr. per hour) cost 6—7 fr., including
if the carriage be quitted at the Colonne de Juillet. The Boulevards,
which would thus be omitted, may be sufficiently inspected
in the course of subsequent walks. In this case the stranger
may proceed to the cemetery of Père Lachaise, a walk through the
principal parts of which occupies at least 2 hrs.
From Ménilmontant, at the corner of the Boulevards Extérieurs,
near Père Lachaise, an omnibus starts every quarter of an hour
for the Boulevard de Filles du Calvaire (a drive of 10 min.),
whence (correspondance, p. 23) omnibuses run every 5 min.,
along the entire length of the Boulevards, to the Madeleine (in
25 min.).
After this preliminary voyage of discovery, the stranger may
then proceed at his leisure to explore the metropolis in detail.
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