University of Virginia Library

3. RESTAURANTS.

Paris is indisputably the cradle of high culinary art. The
ordinary tables d'hôte convey to the mind but a feeble idea of
the extent to which this art is carried; the "chefs d'œuvre" must
be sought for in the first-class restaurants. It must, however,
be borne in mind that in one of these establishments the taste
of the connoisseur can hardly be adequately gratified at a less
expenditure than 10—15 fr.

A few of the best and most respectable, especially in the
most frequented situations (Palais Royal, Boulevards etc.) are
here enumerated. The charges are mentioned approximately, but
it should be observed that they have been rising steadily within
the last few years in consequence of the enormous rents paid for
these establishments.

In the large restaurants the portions are usually very ample,
so that one portion suffices for two persons or two portions for
three. The visitor should therefore avoid dining alone. It
is even allowable to order one portion for three persons. In the
establishments of the better class, ladies may always without the
slightest impropriety be of the party.

At some of the less fashionably situated restaurants (see p. 13)
the viands are as good as those in the restaurants of the Palais
Royal and the boulevards, but less expensive.

The Bill of Fare often consists of a book of many pages,
bound in velvet. Whatever dish is selected, it is sure to be found
unexceptionable of its kind. At the smaller restaurants it is
not prudent to order any dish which is not mentioned in the
"carte du jour". The subjoined list is given with a view to make
the stranger acquainted with the names of the commonest dishes
rather than with those of Parisian delicacies. The triumphs of
Parisian culinary skill consist in the different kinds of filet de
bœuf, fricandeaus, mayonnaises and sauces.

Huîtres, oysters 1 fr. 10 c.—2½ fr. per doz.

Potage à la Julienne, soup containing finely cut vegetables.

Potage à la puré aux croûtons, a kind of pea-soup with dice
of toasted bread.

Cornichons, pickled cucumbers.

Oseille, sorrel, very popular in Paris.

Pommes, potatoes (it is not customary to add de terre).

Pommes sautées, potatoes stewed in butter.

Pommes à la maître d'hôtel, potatoes with parsley and butter.

Purée de pommes, mashed potatoes.

Petits pois, green peas (au sucre or au beurre.)

Haricots verts, green beans.

Haricots blancs, white beans, a standard dish among the French
middling classes.

Flageolets, a superior quality of white beans.

Canard aux navets, roasted duck with turnips, a popular dish.

Pieds de cochon à la Sainte Menehould, pig's pettitoes seasoned,
a favourite dish, often exposed to view in shop-windows.

Beefsteak bien cuit, beefsteak well-done, saignant underdone.

Filet de Bœuf, a favourite dish of the French.

Châteaubriand, a kind of beefsteak, but thicker.

Fricandeau, larded veal-cutlet.

Gigot, leg of mutton.

Foie de veau, calves' liver.

Rognons, kidneys.

Poulet, chicken. Un quart de poulet is a sufficient portion
for one person.

Filets de chevreuil, roasted venison.

Perdrix, partridge; aux choux, with cabbage and sausages.

Perdreaux, young partridges.

Sole au gratin, fried sole.

Turbot, turbot; Barbu, a superior description.

Raie, roach. Maquereau, mackerel. Moules, mussels.

Omelettes of different kinds, aux confitures, aux fines herbes,
au fromage, au rhum, aux rognons etc.

Beignets de pommes, apple-fritters.

Meringues, cream-tarts.

Carafe frappée, caraffe of iced water.

Vin frappée, wine in ice.

The wines principally in vogue are (Bordeaux) St. Emilion
and St. Julien (3—4 fr.), Château Larose, Ch. Latour and Ch.
Lafitte (6—8 fr.); Haute Sauternes is a white Bordeaux wine
(3—4 fr.); Pommard and Volnay (4—5 fr.), Romanée and
Chambertin (5—8 fr.) are wines of Burgundy.

Fromage Suisse is a kind of cream-cheese; Fromage de Brie
and Gruyère are also popular; Camembert and Roquefort are most
esteemed in winter. — The long rolls are termed Flutes, the
round Galettes.

It may also be observed that if the diner partakes of the
"hors d'œuvre" presented to him between the courses, consisting
of radishes, prawns (crevettes) etc., his bill will swell into proportions
for which he is not prepared.

The ordinary red table-wine is usually drunk mixed with
water, a precaution highly necessary in the inferior restaurants.
A whole bottle is placed on the table for each person, unless an
express order is given for half a bottle only.

The Parisian dinner-hour is between 5 and 8 o'clock. The
principal restaurants are generally crowded between 6 and 7;
strangers will therefore do well to dine between 5 and 6.

"Garçon, l'addition, s'il vous plaît!" "Waiter, the bill!" The
waiter then brings the account from the "dame de comptoir"; on
receiving payment he expects a fee of 5 or 6 sous (4—5 in the
inferior restaurants). The attention shown to the regular frequenters
of a restaurant is of course mainly dependent on the fees which
the waiters receive from them.

Travellers may generally avail themselves of one of the Tables
d'Hôte (5 or 6 p. m.) at the hotels without being resident in the
house, but in some cases they are required to give previous
notice of their intention.

The "Dîners à Prix-fixe" have within the last few years
come into vogue. They resemble the tables d'hôte, with the
exception that the diner is at liberty to come at any hour between
5 and 8 (déj. from 10 to 1), and is enabled to dine much more
expeditiously; or, if so disposed, he may prolong his repast to
an hour or more. Payment in some instances is made at the door
on entering. In cases where a whole bottle of table-wine is included
in the charge for dinner, half a bottle of a better quality
may always be obtained in its stead. Meats and vegetables are
served separately; those who prefer them together must make
known their wish. The cuisine is scarcely inferior to that of
the best restaurants; these establishments are recommended to
those who are not au fait at ordering a French dinner.

Diners à Prix-fixe in the Palais Royal and Vicinity.

The charges in each case vary according to the quality of the wine desired.

North Side (Galerie Beaujolais), No. 88, Tissot, déjeuner
1 fr. 25 c., dîner 2 fr., with better wine 2½ fr.

West Side (Galerie Montpensier), the pleasantest on hot
afternoons because in the shade: No. 65, Adolphe Tavernier jeune,
D. 2 or 2½ fr.; 40, *Moureau, same charge; 29, Hédouin, D. 2 fr.;
No. 23, Catelain ("Restaurant de Paris"), D. 2 fr.; 36, Café des
Mille Colonnes, déj. 1½, D. 3 fr.; Cinq Arcades, D. 2 or 2½ fr.

East Side (Galerie Valois), No. 172, Restaurant Valois, déj.
1¼, D. 2 or 2½ fr.; 173, Catelain aîné, dej. 1¼, D. 2½ fr.; 167,
Richelieu, same charge; 160, Lemonnier ("Restaurant Henri IV."),
déj. 1¼, D. 1 fr. 60 c.; 154, Dîner Européen, déj. 1 fr. 90 c.,
D. 3 or 3¾ fr., military music opposite this restaurant in the
afternoon; 145, Tavernier aîné, déj. 1¼, D. 2 or 2½ fr.; 137,
Richard, same charges; 123, Restaurant du Havre, D. 1 fr. 30 c.;
116, Demory (Restaurant de la Rotonde), déj. 1¼, D. 2 or 2½ fr.

Near the Palais Royal and the Louvre: Pestel ("Restaurant
St. Honoré"), Rue St. Honoré 248 (Pl., white 5), opposite the
Place du Carrousel, beefsteak 1 fr.

Colbert, Rue Vivienne 2, opposite the N. side of the Palais
Royal, déj. 1¼ fr., D. 1 fr. 80 c.

Catelain, Rue Vivienne 36, D. 2 fr.

Restaurant du Bourgeois de Paris, Passage du Saumon 78, at
the entrance from the Rue Moutmartre 74, déj. 1 fr. 90 c. or
2 fr. 50 c.

*Beaurain, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 16, D. inc. W.,
simple but good, 1 fr. 80 c., from 5 to 7 p. m, a new table
being arranged every ¼ hr.; ladies not admitted.

Maison Dewamin, Rue du Mail 9, a similar establishment,
dinner commences at 5, ladies admitted.

Arnold, Rue Coquillière 33 (Pl., white 7), like the two last,
D. 1 fr. 20 c.

Restaurant Montesquieu, Rue et Passage Montesquieu, D.
1 fr. 90 c.

It may be observed that the proprietors of the smaller restaurants
in the Palais Royal devote more attention to the elegance of their
saloons and the variety of their bills of fare than to the real
excellence of the viands. Such establishments cannot be recommended
as places of regular resort.

Diners à Prix-fixe in the Boulevards etc.

Dîner de Paris (Boulevard Montmartre 12, entrance in the
Passage Jouffroy 11; Pl., red 7), déj. 2, D. 4 fr., the latter including
a bottle of table-wine or half a bottle of superior quality.

*Dîner de Commerce (Passage des Panoramas 24), déjeuner
1 fr. 60 c., dîner 3 fr., couvert d'enfant 1 fr. 50 c.

Dîner du Rocher, Passage Jouffroy 16, déj. 1¾, D. 3 fr. good
for the price.

Pusch, Rue de la Bourse 3, a good and respectable, although
very unpretending restaurant, déj. 1, D. 1 fr.

Restaurants in the Palais Royal and Vicinity.

North Side: No. 98, *Les trois Frères Provençaux, excellent
wines; No. 81, *Véfour (beefsteak 1¾, Mayonnaise de saumon
2½ fr.). These two are the most celebrated of the old-established
Parisian restaurants.

Two others in the Palais Royal of scarcely inferior reputation
are: Duchesne (N.E. side, Nos. 107, 109) and Douix, Café Corazza
(S.W. side, Nos. 9, 11).

West Side: Galerie de Chartres 4—7, is the shop of *Chevet,
an unrivalled emporium of delicacies; dinners, however, are not
provided. Chevet is restaurateur at the Cursaal at Homburg.

Au Bœuf à la Mode, Rue Valois 8, at the extremity of the
Galerie d'Orléans in the Palais Royal, ample portions, good wine.

*Café de Danemarc, Rue St. Honoré 196 (p. 16).

Restaurants in the Boulevards etc.

The even numbers are on the N., the uneven on the S. side.

Boulevard des Capucines (N. side), *Café-Restaurant
de la Paix, first class establishment (beefsteak 1¾ fr.).

Boulevard des Italiens. No. 38, *Café Foy, corner of
the Chaussée d'Antin, excellent but expensive; No. 20, *Maison
Dorée; No. 16, *Café Riche; Café Anglais. These establishments
are first rate and consequently expensive.

*Garny, Passage de l'Opéra 10, at the end of the Galerie de
l'Horloge, Nr. 24; D. 2, déj. 1½ fr.

No. 29, *Café du Helder, déjeuner on the ground-floor, dinner
in the entresol, expensive (filet 1½, ½ fowl 4 fr.).

Boulevard Montmartre. Dîner de Paris and *Dîner de
Commerce see p. 11. Those who desire to make acquaintance with
the Italian cuisine are recommended to go to *Galliani, Passage
des Panoramas, Galerie Montmartre 10 and 12.

Boulevard Poissonnière. No. 30, Vachette, of the first
class; No. 26, *Desirée-Beaurain; No. 8, *Restaurant de France
(beefsteak 1 fr. 20 c., mayonnaise de volaille 1½ fr.); No. 2,
Café Poissonnière.

At the corner of the Rue Rougemont: Hôtel et Restaurant
Rougemont (beefsteak 1 fr. 25 c.).

Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle. No. 24, Restaurant Bonne
Nouvelle.

Boulevard St. Denis. No. 14, Maire, good wines, well
known for the excellence of its "moules" (beefsteak 1 fr.)

Boulevard du Temple. No. 29, *Bonvalet, moderate
charges.

Place de la Bastille. No. 10, Rive Charamante, good and not
expensive.

The two following restaurants deserve commendation, although
less fashionable than many of the above-mentioned: *Philippe,
Rue Montorgueil 70 (Pl., red 7) and *Brébant, Rue Neuve St. Eustache
10 (filet de sole 2, beefsteak 1½ fr.).

The Maison Duval, Rue Montesquieu 6, owns a number of
excellent, though unpretending eating-houses, termed "Etablissements
de Bouillon": Boulevard St. Martin; Boulevard de Sébastopol
144, Rue Rivoli 47, Rue Montmartre 143, Rue des Filles St.
Thomas 7, Rue de la Monnaie 21, Rue Sartine 10, Rue Beauregard
2, Boulevard St. Michel 26. The charges in these houses
are very moderate: beefsteak 50 c., table-wine 80 c. per bottle.
Other houses occasionally style themselves "Maison Duval", but
are of a very inferior description.

*Lucas, Rue de la Madeleine 14 (Pl., red 5), substantial English
cuisine, Engl. beer, not expensive.

*Restaurant de France, Place de la Madeleine 9, Engl. cuisine,
Engl. beer, moderate charges.

Weber, Rue Royale 25 ("His Lordship's Larder"), an Engl.
restaurant of humble pretension.

*Byron's Tavern, Rue Favart 2, corner of the Rue Grétry,
Engl. cuisine, Engl. beer, good wines, D. at 6 o'clock 3 fr.

*Grande Taverne de Londres, Place Boieldieu, in the rear of the
Opéra Comique, everything excellent and not expensive, ample
portions, filet 1, beefsteak 1 fr.).

*Mère Morel, Rue Favart 8, simple but excellent cuisine.

*Café Voisin, Rue St. Honoré 261.

Champeaux, Place de la Bourse 13, of the first class.

Café Talma, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, Passage Choiseul.

Among the numerous restaurants in the Champs Elysées,
the following are recommended.

Restaurant au Petit Moulin Rouge, Avenue d'Antin, opposite
the S.W. pavilion of the Palais de l'Industrie (Pl., red 3), dinner
in the open air, or in the pavilion.

Ledoyen, to the l. at the commencement of the Champs Elysées;
*Marigny, to the r. by the Cirque de l'Impératrice, good
cellar; *Summer and Loesch, Avenue Matignon, by the Circus;
*Laurent, Avenue d'Antin 23; *Ravel, Rue Neuve 2 and Avenue
de l'Impératrice (Pl., red 1), conveniently situated for visitors to
the Bois de Boulogne.

Table d'hôte for those of moderate requirements at Beaurain's,
Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 16, incl. wine 1 fr. 80 c., 5 to 7 o'clock.

Dischinger, Rue de la Bourse 3, a respectable restaurant of
very modest pretensions, B. 1 fr., D. 1 fr.

Boulevard de Sébastopol. No. 9, Café-Restaurant de
la Nouvelle Poste; No. 49, Café de l'Union de Commerce; No. 101,
Restaurant du Square des Arts et Métiers; No. 70, *Etablissement
de Bouillon, good, respectable and very moderate.

On the Left Bank of the Seine. Café d'Orsay, of the first
class, opposite the Pont Royal (Pl., white 5); *Café Desmares,
Rue du Bac 27, expensive; *Blot aîné, Rue de Lille 33, highly
recommended.

In the Quartier Latin restaurants of the second and third
class abound. Among the most respectable may be mentioned:
*Magny, Rue Contre-escarpe Dauphine 3 (Pl., white 8, near the
Pont Neuf); Foyot, Rue de Tournon 33, opposite the entrance of
the Palais du Luxembourg; Restaurant du Luxembourg, Rue de
Vaugirard 22, opposite the palace (Pl., white 8); Café Caron, Rue
des Saints-Pères 22 (Pl., white 6).

Those who desire to dine in the vicinity of the Jardin des
Plantes will find the *Hôtel de la Tour d'Argent (Quai de la
Tournelle 15, opposite the bridge) a respectable house.

Amateurs of Bavarian Beer may visit one of the following
establishments:

Mallet, Faubourg Montmartre 4; *Baumann, Boulevard St.
Martin; *Zöhl's Brasserie, Rue Rougemont 3, D. about 6 o'cl.
2—3 fr.; *Restaurant de la Forêt Noire, Rue d'Enghien; Café du
Midi, Rue Montmartre 50; Frantzen, Rue Mazagran 16; Guillaume
Tell, Boulevard de Strasbourg 18; Fanta, Rue Halévy 4.

At these restaurants, which are principally frequented by Germans,
breakfast, dinner or supper may be procured.