7. Champs Elysées.
Palais de l'Industrie. Palais de l'Elysée. Maison de François I. Hôtel Pompéien.
Pont de l'Alma. Pont d'Jéna.
The W. continuation of the Place de la Concorde is formed
by the Champs Elysées, originally laid out by Marie de Medicis
as a pleasure ground and planted with elms and lime-trees. It
is about half-a-mile in length and intersected by regular walks
and avenues. The principal road which traverses it and leads
from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de l'Etoile is one of
the most fashionable promenades in Paris and is usually crowded
with vehicles of all descriptions, especially between 3 and 6 p. m.
The Champs Elysées are a favourite resort of the lower as well
as of the upper classes, and abound with attractions calculated
to suit the taste of the former, such as cafés-chantants, dancing
dogs, jugglers, marionettes, show-booths, cake-stalls etc. These
sources of entertainment become most popular towards evening,
especially by gas-light, and are in great request till nearly midnight.
They afford the stranger ample opportunity of witnessing
one of the characteristic phases of Parisian life.
At the entrance to the Champs Elysées are placed two figures
of Horse-tamers, executed by Coustou and removed in 1795 from
the palace at Marly to their present position, where they form
a suitable counterpart to the winged steeds at the egress of the
Jardin des Tuileries (p. 77). A Horse-railway, which commences
at the S.E. extremity of the Champs Elysées, conveys passengers
to Boulogne (sur Seine) and Versailles.
The wood itself is little more than ¼ M. in length and extends
as far as the Rond Point (Place or Etoile des Champs Elysées),
a circular space with a fountain in the centre, half-way between
the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de l'Etoile. The principal
avenue, however, slightly ascending, extends to the latter. To
the I. diverges the broad Avenue Montaigne, where on the r. is
situated the Jardin Mabille (p. 31), and farther on, on the l.,
the Hôtel Pompéien (p. 84).
Contiguous to the Champs Elysées on the N. side is the garden
of the Palais de l'Elysée, formerly Elysée Bourbon, erected in
1718 and considerably enlarged under Napoleon III. (front in
the Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré 55—57). During the reign of
Louis XV. this mansion was the residence of Madame de Pompadour;
in 1815, during the "hundred days", it was occupied by
Napoleon I., afterwards by the Duke of Wellington and the emperor
Alexander; it subsequently became the seat of the Duchess
de Berry, and finally that of the President of the republic previous
to his election as emperor and removal to the Tuileries.
On the S. side the Champs Elysées have been compelled to
yield a considerable space to the Palais de l'Industrie, the most
considerable of the modern edifices of Paris, although by no means
the most pleasing. It was erected by a company in 1852—55
and subsequently purchased by the government. In 1855 it
was employed for the first Great Exhibition at Paris, and is
now used for the exhibition of manufactures, agricultural products
etc. The building, which has a total length of 378 yds.
and a width of 144 yds., is constructed in the form of a rectangle.
The projecting front, to the N., which contains the principal
entrance, is surmounted by a han some group representing France
with outstretched hands, awarding laurel-wreaths to Art and Manufacture.
Over the entrance archway is a high relief representing
Agriculture, Industry and Art in the act of rendering homage
to a bust of the emperor. Above the tiers of pillars on each
side are the imperial arms with four genii as bearers, under which
are inscribed the names of the emperor and empress. The frieze
which separates the basement story from the first floor records
the names of men who have acquired distinction in the pursuit
of art, science, commerce, agriculture etc. The building has recently
been purchased by the government and is destined for
annual exhibitions. An entire restoration of the interior during
the present summer (1867) is contemplated.
In the rear of the Palais de l'Industrie (towards the Seine)
the "Concerts Musard" take place in summer in the open air
(admission 1 fr.).
To the W. of the Palais is situated a round building in which
panoramas are exhibited (deserving of inspection). On the opposite
side of the road is situated the Cirque de l'Impératrice
(p. 30).
The S. side of the Champs Elysées is contiguous to the Seine
(Quai de la conférence), the bank of which is skirted by the Cours
la Reine, one of the avenues planted by Marie de Médicis, along
which the above-mentioned railway runs. One of the most tastefully
built private residences in the renaissance style is the Maison
de François I., which here forms the corner of the Cours
la Reine and the Rue Bayard. The sculptures in front, the reliefs
of the frieze representing vintage festivals, and the portraits
in the medallions were all executed by Jean Goujon, the eminent
Huguenot sculptor and one of the victims of St. Bartholomew's
night. They were removed in 1826 from Moret, near Fontainebleau,
from an edifice erected in 1528 by Francis I. for the reception
of his sister, and employed in the construction of the
present building. Adjacent is the handsome residence of Madame
Alboni, the celebrated singer of the Italian opera.
The Quartier de François I., the construction of which was
untertaken by a company in 1823, is now nearly completed.
The circular Place de François I. is adorned with a fountain.
The Avenue Montaigne, which extends from the Seine, from
the W. extremity of the Cours la Reine. to the Rond Point, was
formerly termed the Allée des Veuves. Before the time of the
first revolution it was on account of its privacy the usual drive
taken by recently bereaved widows, whom the etiquette of that
period forbade to appear in public.
About the middle of the Avenue, on the l. (No 27) is situated
the Hôtel Pompéien, erected by the architect M. Normand
for Prince Napoleon in the style of the "Villa of Diomedes"
at Pompeii. In 1866 it was sold to a company for 1,200,000 fr.,
by whom it is employed for giving concerts and also exhibited
to visitors (adm. 1 fr.). The interior deserves inspection, although
it does not convey an adequate idea of the ancient architecture,
which in the case of villas differed considerably from
that of ordinary dwelling-houses. A collection of curiosities
actually excavated at Pompeii is in contemplation. — Opposite
to it is the residence of Prince Soltikoff, erected in the mediæval
style.
In the vicinity are two much frequented Gymnastic Establishments,
that of M. *Triat, Avenue de Montaigne 36, and
M. Roux, Rue Bayard 3.
The Champ de Mars (p. 159) is reached hence, either by
the Pont de l'Alma and the Avenue Rapp (the corner-building on
the r. is an imperial stable, see p. 74), or by following the
Quai de Billy (on the r. an extensive edifice for the "Subsistances
Militaires") to the Pont d'Jéna, opposite the principal entrance
of the Exhibition of 1867.
The Pont de l'Alma was erected in 1856 to commemorate the
Crimean campaign, at a cost of 1,200,000 fr. (48,000 L.). At
the extremities are four statues, representing a Zouave, a soldier
of the line, an artillery-man and a chasseur.
The Pont d'Jéna, constructed in 1806—1813, is opposite
the Ecole Militaire, but concealed by the buildings of the Exhibition.
It is adorned with huge eagles and four colossal groups:
a Greek, a Roman, a Gaul and an Arabian, each holding an untamed
horse.
