University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER 20

Geneva

My Mother:

We arrived here too late to see anything of the city:; indeed, we are all so tired that a bed, with feather pillows, seems the most desirable thing in the world. Ed is already sleeping audibly, and I am just resting previous to seeking slumberland. We were served dinner at a little station in the mountains and I enjoyed it far more than the usual meals served en route because I was out of the train and stationary. We passed tunnel after tunnel and now the road to and from Italy, in my mind, seems one continuous tunnel! When we reached the frontier we were ordered into the station and the compartments were thoroughly searched. I heard they were looking for tobacco and as Ed had smoked his last Italian cigar I was not uneasy. Our trunks were not carelessly and ruthlessly overhauled, the magic word "cook" was spoken and we were very courteously treated. The cool air of Switzerland was very welcome and we rejoiced to see her snow capped mountains and rushing torrents once more. The hour of sunset was so gorgeous that only a guide book can do justice.

We had quite a "singin' skule" this evening Ed and Miss L were the masters and the music produced was inspiriting if not up to grand opera standards. We are feeling blue at the prospect of parting so soon, we have been such friends we hate to think the partings are coming one by one. Ed declares he is going to arise early and milk a goat before breakfast. Of course, I must assist him, so here is a fond good night to you, mother of mine.

August 5:

Just from the opera house, where we have enjoyed (?) a very bum comedy. Why we would consider it poor away out west. The orchestra, under the leadership of a Negro, was the only redeeming feature. The expression of the minister's face was good to see. He had accompanied Miss L and thus he felt doubly shocked. We had planned to view the illumination, but a storm came up and it was postponed. All the fancy decorations were destroyed by the rain, and finding the evening before us unoccupied, we decided to try a play. Sorry we did, I assure you.

As the usual hour the carriages were at the door and we were off. We are an unusually prompt crowd; it is seldom we are delayed. Today we enjoyed the unique sensation of visiting a Protestant cathedral, St. Peter's. You see, all along our route Catholicism has been in the ascendant, since leaving England, therefore, the noted places of worship have been Catholic. This cathedral dates before the Reformation and has great somber beauty, yet I felt that it was lonely. It surly misses the Blessed Sacrament! In the Chapel of the Transept a statue of Duke Henri de Rohan, a protestant leader is shown. It is not far from St. Peter's to the Russian church and here I felt, indeed, a stranger. I was not impressed by its beauty or magnificence, only its queerness. It truly has a Muscovite air, and radiates the spirit of Russia. The icons were interesting, yet I did not find the chief representation of the face of Christ very attractive.

In the Hotel de Ville we were shown a portrait of Marie Leczinska,[1] which would have amply repaid us for the visit, if we had not entered the room where the Alabama claims[2]were adjusted and viewed the peaceful plow made of swords used in battle. The stairway is interesting because it is just an inclined way, so prepared that the magistrates in ye olden day might be carried up in their litters. The yellow robes of the members were on racks in a room off the main assembly chamber, and it was not in man's nature to resist trying them on when the woman guide was afar. The two boys looked very handsome and we voted them in on the spot. I wish I had a gown of that shade!

The powerhouse with its twenty turbines greatly please Ed, but I could not appreciate its ceaseless roar--made my head ache. The drinking water furnished is said to be the purest in Europe. I know it is excellent. We went down a lovely path to a terrace, where we obtained an excellent view of the Rhone and the Arve the blue current and the dark rushing side by side for over a mile before the waters are commingled. Like a long courtship which eventually ends in matrimony. We were given a lengthy ride along the lake and shown the Brunswick monument and the Rousseau statue and we watched the many boats filled with pleasure seekers; Ed belonged to one, but I was quite pleased with a carriage. The far-off mountains in their everlasting white formed an exquisite background for the blue waters of the lake. Do you know, mother, that you cannot imagine a blue quite so pleasing as the tint of this water? Angels must have painted it! Tonight when the storm lashed it to fury and the lightning flashed and the thunder pealed like minute guns, I could not believe we were beside the placid, unruffled lake of today. Ed would have liked a boat trip, but I so feared an attack of sea sickness that I refused to go, urging him to go with the others. He would not so we visited the watch factory of Vacheron and Constantine, established in 1785, and it was there the first watches were made by machinery in the world, in 1828, so we were informed by an obliging attendant. Ed was pleased with the exhibits, but I enjoyed it only because he did. From here we walked down the Grand Quai and entered several of the shops to see the jewelry for which Geneva is also noted. Ed found that there is no "jewing." The price is fixed and there is no display of talent in bargaining. We purchased a lovely enameled spoon; it is the prettiest of my collection. I am very proud of it and so will Mary be some day, eh?

We were told this Protestant Rome is increasing in Catholic population. If Calvin could return to his former home he would tear his hair in rage.

We say good bye to feather covers tonight, they are not used in Paris. O dear, why must we move on! I am so tired, I would enjoy a long rest yet for that I must wait until in Oklahoma. Surely a letter from you awaits me in Paris. I am anxious to know all about you and the family. How are my cats? You have not mentioned them.

Good bye mother best.

C.