University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER 10

Cologne

My Very Dear Mother:

There is a distinct advantage in traveling with Cook; you can sleep in the morning until called, secure in the knowledge that the conductor has all things arranged, and you will be given sufficient time to breakfast and reach the train. My only grievance is, we are given too many minutes at the station, yet I realize it is unavoidable in a party of this size: the man in charge must have time to count us and search for the missing. The change in scenery was gradual. All the country, one great garden, is delightful to eyes accustomed to western wide tracts of uncultivated land.

Ed gave a dinner today. Issued invitations to four ladies, and managed it so they were in our compartment. A suit case was the table and dainty paper napkins were used. He was gracious host and nimble waiter. First course, peanuts, followed by honey cake and peppermint candy, from Montreal. He arose, made a little speech concerning the work he had obtaining for us the next course, one of the delicacies of Holland. He passed crackers, then a very queer shaped package appeared; with a quick movement he opened it, and out tumbled a half a dozen monster baked eels. Such shrieks. The table was over-turned in the wild effort to escape the things; Ed urged "keep cool, I beg you, ladies, the poor creatures are cooked." After the tumult subsided, from some hidden place he brought forth a bottle of champagne, and in the sipping of it, from a collapsible cup which collapsed oftener than it remained upright, we managed to forgive him. Mother, he is irrepressible, nothing tires or annoys him, he is always full of sunshine.

We reached this city at two o'clock and as our hotel is very near to the great cathedral, carriages were not provided. In the expression of England, "I'm sorry." When grandfather used to describe this cathedral I thought he was just romancing. He did not do it half justice. It is superb, like a sweet strain of music with a minor chord. If the devil did design the wonderful towers he must have remembered a bit of his former home in heaven, for not from his present abode could such beauty spring. Ed wishes me to send a few figures. You know he always wishes to know "all about it." The capacity is said to be 30,000; it is the third largest church in the world; the central tower is over five hundred feet and the length of building is five hundred and thirty-two feet. Perhaps the statement that one hundred and twelve columns in the interior do not impress you as many, will better serve to make you comprehend its vastness.

There are many sacred relics, which thanks to Mr. B. we were shown--a bit of the true cross, upper part of the staff of St. Peter, etc. The real treasure of the church is the tomb of the Three Wise Men. A solid gold casket, inlaid with precious stones valued at over two million dollars, and said to contain the mortal remains of the Three. Sacred vessels, marvelous vestments decorated with precious stones, superb golden receptacles, holding relics of saints, worth millions of dollars. When the guide quoted figures I felt like I was listening to an article in frenzied finance, they were so stupendous. The cathedral was not made in a day as we do out west, it was commenced in the thirteenth century and finished in the nineteenth.

It was plundered by Napoleon's soldiers and we were shown statues, etc., denuded of precious stones by the Christian vandals. From the cathedral or dom, as they call it here, to the church of St. Ursula and her eleven thousand virgins, is but a short walk. It is said the saint and her virgins were passing through Cologne from England on a pilgrimage, to end in Rome, when the Huns under Attila took the town and put all inhabitants to death. Years afterwards a pious man gathered the bones, built a church, and dedicated it as a receptacle for their remains, cursing any who would dare to mingle their dust with the dust of the martyred dead.

When Pepin was king, losing his little daughter, he wished her to sleep with the virgins, yet fearing the curse he evaded it by building a tomb supported by four columns in the body of the church, and there his child awaits the judgment day. There is one dear chapel devoted entirely to skulls, seventeen hundred exposed, we were told, and countless bones in great vases and lovely shrines. It is strange, but the gentle virgins have given even to their bones an air of peace and you do not feel repelled by the gruesomeness. They show there an amphora which is claimed to be one of the jars used at the wedding feast in Cana. It is doubtless of great antiquity. After leaving the church we scattered, some going to the stores, others to drive. Ed and I determined to enjoy a street car and also lookup a certain gentleman he wished to see concerning a business venture. The town is a veritable fortress and I think quite picturesque. We found the number in a beautiful residence street. We were surprised, as we thought it his business address. The maid urged us to return, when we said we were from America. "Ah," said she, "from America, the master will be so glad; only this morning his son left for Chicago."

We left our cards and agreed to return at eight o'clock. It seemed rather "a la Mr. Butinksy," yet the business must be transacted and we knew not how else to do it. I do wish you could have seen us struggle to explain our wants in a drug store where only German was spoken. We wished seidlitz powders, and after exhausting ourselves in French and English Ed thought of pantomime. He folded two papers, seized an ash tray and an ink bottle, emptied the imaginary powders therein and pouring together made a noise like a soda water fountain. "Yah, Yah," exclaimed the delighted clerk and produced the right medicine.

After dinner we again sought the home of Mr. Z. where we were so cordially welcomed we forgot we were strangers in a strange land. Before we were permitted to introduce business his daughter appeared, and over a glass of wine and little cakes we enjoyed a pleasant conversation. His knowledge of our new state and entire constitution surprised me. His daughter is very proficient in English, having spent many months in England. The son is in Chicago to learn American business methods. I am glad he is young, otherwise the ordeal would be dreadful. Mr. Z. paid me the compliment of saying that my enunciation was so perfect and my voice so charming he found not the slightest difficulty in comprehending my every remark, although English was not to him a very easy language.

Ed says I am "real puffed up," that very soon I'll say I have a true English voice. I think not, I'll wait until I hear a few more and see if I like them better. We were urged to spend several days in Cologne and permit them to be our guides. We expressed regret that being "cookies," we were not long in a place. They laughed heartily at the term, and assured us that Thomas Cook & Sons always fulfilled their promises. We parted with mutual regret. Oh, I forgot to state the business terminated satisfactorily.

It is near the hour of twelve and the dear little bed with its heaped up pillows looks very inviting. May I leave, if I promise a letter tomorrow, all about our Rhine trip? We leave here by boat early, to go so far on the river as Mayence. I am so excited I can hardly think of sleep, not only the Rhine, but in one more day we are to be in your native village. Good night, dear Mother of mine, I am always thinking of you.

Lovingly,

C.