University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER 9

Amsterdam

My Very Dear Mother:

The trip from the Hague to this city only occupied about one hour. The scenery was so novel I found it within my heart to wish the distance greater. The giant windmills, so unlike our western ones, although, do you know, we saw two American ones twirling busily, aggressively, completely out of tone with their surroundings. The possessors lack artistic feeling, otherwise they could not tolerate the incongruity. The many canals, the slowly moving boats, the sleek lazily browsing cows, the low lying fields and the busy workers, all form a picture as from a book of toy land.

Amsterdam is called the "Venice of the North," because of the numerous canals and bridges. I am not greatly pleased, I object to the musty odors and would suggest the women's club order the canals thoroughly cleansed with sapolio[1] and place trash receptacles everywhere, forbidding the use of the canals for that purpose. After lunch we went on an excursion to the Island of Marken,[2 ]and as we did not have many hours at our disposal, I am pleased to state that the greater part of the trip was by tram-car. The boat from the last village afar out from the city was the slowest thing it has ever been my misfortune to use as a means of travel. Truly I think it was a model of the age of Noah. We were met by almost the entire population of the island, given a hearty welcome, and an outstretched hand begging money.

The costumes are quaint, with their voluminous skirt, tightly laced bodices, brilliant apron and close fitting cap. From before the ears hang two curls of whatever length the possessor can coax them to become. The boys and girls are dressed alike, except shape of cap, until about the age of seven. If you are in doubt as to the sex of the child, examine the cap. Plain spells girl, round piece in crown, boy. One little girl with long flaxen curls and a mop of hair escaping her little cap seemed to fancy me, and walked holding my hand. After a while she shyly whispered, "please buy my hair." I asked her what I should do with it, and she said, " wear it." The raven hue of my own locks did not appear to her a reason for not wearing her hair. Ed caught the little thing and insisted that she sell him her two curls. How frightened she appeared, gasping hurriedly, " no, no, only back hair." It was told us that they never dispose of those as there is disgrace attached to their absence. We were invited to enter several houses and urged to purchase souvenirs, the owners offering all sorts of household goods for sale. One old lady displayed a gorgeous bed, in which she said her gracious queen had slept. I trust the royal lady's rest was unbroken; as for me I prefer a bed a little less like a cupboard. Truly the sleeping places are just like closets in the wall. How they are ventilated I know not. A very elaborate wedding trousseau Friesland style was shown to us and said to be the property of Queen Wilhelmina. A young fellow in white linen bloomers was our guide, and he informed us the islanders were very poor, finding existence barely possible with a bounty from the government and the gifts of tourists. The women do the field and housework, and the men ply the fishing boats. The beauty of the village was introduced to us, but not one of our party became infatuated. Her figure left much to be desired, and her features were heavy. Her complexion and flaxen curls were her only charms. The women are broad of shoulder, flat breasted, of medium height and without a waist line. There is nothing delicately feminine about them.

I was rather glad when the whistle bade us go aboard the boat, as the odor of the stale fish was over powering. Do you know that old tub was so slow that we missed the car to Amsterdam, and were obliged to wait in the little village for more than an hour. The numerous youngsters were delighted and established themselves as our rear guard first, but soon invaded our ranks, considering us as their prey.

We wandered about the canals watching the fishing boats unload. One cargo of eels caused me to give an unearthly screech and convulsively grab Ed. The boys were so amused. They could not understand my fear. Thereafter, whenever eels appeared, one little mimic would scream affrightedly and clutch his friend, thus giving joy to them all. The most disreputable specimen, with dirty face, cross eyes, turned-up nose, wide mouth, freckles galore, dressed in old trousers miles too big, the same hitched up with a lone strap, and a tattered coat, was the leader of the band. He found Ed very fascinating and no amount of "shooing" could force him from us, so we were regaled with tales and witticisms in the queerest of English. Ed asked his name. The answer flashed: "Huckleberry Finn," his pal was "Tom Sawyer." Evidently Americans had assisted in their education. (?)

We desired to enter the ancient church, but the woman who kept the key had gone to Amsterdam and neglected to leave it. The men induced the boys to run races and wrestle for pennies. The noise of the wooden shoes and the shrill voices of the children proved trying to me, and I walked beside a near by canal, wishing for a pin and a string, the fish were so saucy, leaping everywhere. A herd of cows from the other side eyed me in mild surprise, and a lordly bull tossed his head and dared me to come over. The day was waning when we entered the car, hence we passed many men milking the placid cows beside the canals.

The cows have magnificent udders and appear very gentle. Sister would delight to have one of the sleek beauties.

After dinner we were ready for new adventures and were glad to accept the invitation extended by Ed to show us the streets by night. Three of the young ladies accompanied us. Before leaving the hotel I asked the clerk if it would be all right for us to go without our hats, and he replied, "certainly, many Americans do."

Ed walked with two ladies, I followed with the third. We had not progressed far in the crowded street when we were separated quite a distance. Two well dressed men approached and said something in French, and then in English, "Girls, where are your hats?" We hurried forward but they smilingly persisted, "where are your hats?" just then Ed turned and called, "hurry, we are waiting." The two quickly disappeared in the throng. We have learned our lesson, hereafter we wear hats. I am rather indignant with the clerk. Of course I know Americans go without hats; I wish to know the custom of this country. Our room is large and the bed would accommodate a family of seven; I might be comfortable if my sense of smell was not acute. I have tried to ventilate the room, but the odor comes from outside, from the canals, you know.

Tomorrow is Sunday and we are not supposed to be "personally conducted" on the Sabbath, yet the afternoon is to be devoted to sight seeing and a carriage drive, kindly furnished by Cook & Son. You see our time is so limited how can we spare Sunday to rest? I shall write of the city tomorrow evening, until then, I love you, good night.

Sunday 12th.--Another strenuous day is at an end. If I survive this summer I shall be capable of any exertion. Mass at ten-thirty in a cathedral. I hesitate to state the age, as it sounds rather incredible to our western ears. The music furnished by a choir of men was fairly good, and the long sermon in Dutch sounded full of religion. When we entered the church the ushers conducted us to seats, Ed with the men, I sat across the aisle with the women. It is evidently not customary for the sexes to sit together. I was in a dilemma when the three collectors passed as I did not have a piece of silver in my purse. I looked wise and nodded toward Ed. His tale is this: he saw his neighbor take out a handful of small coins, make them into three neat piles of different sizes, so he immediately did likewise. When the first collector passed he placed in the basket the pile corresponding to the one his neighbor deposited, thus doing until the money was all given. After mass we walked home, walking through queer little streets and over many bridges. We found the most luscious cherries for sale and purchased a basket; we commenced eating cherries in Canada, I wonder if we can get them all the way to Rome?

The afternoon has been ideal, the weather so agreeable, and we were in comfortable rubber-tired carriages behind a pair of dandy horses. Our team were blacks and real high steppers, the driver said they required much attention, as they longed to run. At the palace a guide regaled us with tales of its past and present glory. It was built as a city hall in 1600 and made a royal palace by Napoleon in 1800. The entrance hall is of purest marble, just a cool dream; the city fathers were surely lovers of chaste, cold beauty.

The other rooms are gorgeous, especially the throne room, with its warm crimson and gold, but I prefer the splendor of the marble hall.

At the Ryks Museum we were shown all sorts of treasures; the chair of Kruger recalled the old patriot so forcibly I would not have been surprised to have seen him in it. The native costumes were interesting, but the time given did not admit of more than a glance. When we hurried through the art room seeking Rembrandt's "Night Watch," I thought of the cartoon of the Cook tourist--a man in an art gallery, stop watch in hand, wiping his moisture-laden brow, and exclaiming: "Gee! we did that last mile in a minute."

You know the time is so limited that it is useless to try to see many pictures, better follow the advice of the guide and see a few of the most noted. It was worth all the struggle upstairs and down at last to stand before the magnificent "Night Watch." The figures were so real and coloring so satisfactory. The copy shown in St. Louis at the World's Fair was indeed good, I think. We were given a drive to rest our eyes and enable us to form an idea of the city. We drove slowly through the Jewish quarters, where humanity seemed numberless, and there was little evidence of Sunday rest. I am glad to leave tomorrow, I feel malaria in my bones. If I owned this hotel I would remove all these heavy hangings and use muslin curtains. Good night, Mother dear. Just think! tomorrow we are going to be in Germany. How often I wish for your presence.

Lovingly,

C.