Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents |
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| B. | B. LEWIS'S SUMMARY VIEW OF RIVERS AND CREEKS, ETC.
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 | SCIENTIFIC DATA ACCOMPANYING
The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 |  |
B. LEWIS'S SUMMARY VIEW OF RIVERS AND CREEKS, ETC.[13]
A SUMMARY VIEW OF THE RIVERS AND
CREEKS, which discharge thems[elves] into the Missouri;
containing a discription of their characters and
peculiarities, their sources and connection with other rivers
and Creeks, the quality of the lands, and the apparent face of
the country through which they pass, and the width, and
distance of their entrances from each other; to which is also
added a short discription of some of the most remarkable
points and places on the Missouri; taken from the information
of Traders, Indians & others; together with our own
observations, from the junction of that river with the Mississippi,
to Fort Mandan.
The confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers is situated in
89°. 57′. 45″ Longitude West from Greenwich, and 38°. 55′. 19″. 6.
North Latitude. Ascending the Missouri from hence, at the distance
of 21 miles, you arrive at the Village of St. Charles, situated on the
North bank of the river, in a narrow tho' elivated plain, which is
bounded in the rear by a range of small hills; hence the appellation
of Petit cote, a name by which, this village is better known to the
inhabitants of the Illinois, than that of St. Charles. The village is
bisected or divided into two equal parts by one prinsipal street about a
mile in length, runing nearly parallel with the river. It contains a
Chapple, one hundred dwelling houses and about 450 inhabitants. the
houses are generally small and but illy constructed. a great majority of
the inhabitants are miserably poor, illiterate, and when at home, excessively
lazy; tho' they are polite, hospitable and by no means deficient
in point of natural genious. they live in great harmony among themselves,
and place as implicit confidence in the doctrines of their
speritual pastor, (the Roman Catholic priest) as they yeald passive
obedience to the will of their temporal master, the Commandant. A
small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their cultivation. this
labour is commonly imposed on the old men and boys; those in the
and in order to gain the necessary subsistence for themselves and
families, either undertake hunting voyages on their own account, or
engage themselves as hirelings to such as possess sufficient capital to
extend their traffic to the natives to the interior parts of the country.
on those voyages in either case, they are frequently absent from their
families or homes, the term of six, twelve, or eighteen months, during
which time they are always subjected to severe and incessant labour,
exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages, the vicissitudes of the
weather and climate, and dependant on chance and accedent alone,
for food, raiment, or relief in the event of malady; yet they undertake
those voyages with cheerfullness, and prefer the occupation of the
hunter, or engage, to that of the domestic, and independent farmer.
Ascending the Missoury at the distance of 12 miles, Bonhomme Creek
discharges itself on the S. side. it is 23 yards wide at it's entrance
is of no great length, & passes through a fertile well timbered country,
inhabited by American emigrants principally.
At the distance of 9 miles higher up we pass the mouth of the Osage
woman's river, which discharges itself on the N. side; it is 30 yards
wide at it's entrance, heads with two small streams which discharge
themselves into the Mississippi a small distance above the mouth of the
Illinois River, is navigable for perogues some miles during the spring
season, and waters a fertile well timbered country inhabited by about
fifty American families. this part of the country is generally called
Boon's settlement, having derived it's name from it's first inhabitant
Col° Daniel Boon, a gentleman well known in the early settlement of
the state of Kentucky.
About 9 miles higher up, and 69, from the Mississippi, Chaurette
Creek falls in on the N. side. it is 20 yards wide at it's mouth, waters
a tolerable country well covered with timber, but is of no great extent.
it heads with the waters of the River Ocuivre[14]
a branch of the
Mississippi. immediately below the mouth of this creek five French
families reside, who subsist by hunting and a partial trade w[h]ich they
mantain with a few detached Kickapoos who hunt in the neighbourhood.
this is the last settlement of white persons which we meet with in
ascending the Missouri.
At the distance of 34 miles higher up the Gasconade disembogues on
the S. side behind a small Island covered with willow. at it's entrance
it is 157 yards wide, but is much narrower a little distance up, and
length, heads with the Marameg & St. Francis rivers. the country
watered by this river, is generally broken, thickly covered with timber
and tolerably fertile. the hills which border on the Missouri near
the mo[u]th of this river are about 300 feet high, containing excellent
limestone in great abundance. I have observed in ascending the Missouri
to this place, that whenever the river washes the base of the
hills on either side, it discloses large quarries of this stone, lying in
horizontal stratas, from 10 to 40 feet in thickness. this stone is
of light brown colour, with a smal tint of blue; fracture imperfect
conchoidal; when broken it presents the appearance of a variety of
small shells and other marine substances, of which it seems to be
entirely composed. in this solid and massive rock, are inclosed stones
of yellowish bro [w] n flint, of bulbous and indeterminate shapes, from
an ounce, to ten or twelve pounds weight. these stratas of limestone
are not unusually found overlaying a strata of freestone, or soft sandstone,
from two to twenty feet in thickness. this stone produces lime
of an excellent quality, and is the same with that, which makes it's
appearance on the Mississippi from Cape Gerrardeau, to the entrance
of the Missouri.
F[i]fteen miles up we pass Muddy River which falls in on the N
side. this river waters a most delightfull country; the land lies well
for cultivation, and is fertile in the extreem, particularly on the
Missouri, both above and below this river for many miles; it is covered
with lofty and excellent timber, and supplyed with an abundance of
fine bould springs of limestone water. this river is 50 yards wide
several miles above it's mouth.
2 miles higher up Muddy creek discharges itself; it is 20 yards wide
at it's mouth, heads with cedar Creek, and the branches of Muddy
river. the country through which it passes is similar to that last
mentioned.
At the distance of 19 miles higher up, you arrive at the mouth of the
Osage River; being 137 miles from the junction of the Missouri and
Mississippi. it is 397 yards wide at it's mouth, opposite to which,
the Missouri is 875 yards wide. it disembogues on the S. side just
above a cluster of small Islands. it takes it's rise in an open country
of Plains and Praries, with some of the Northern branches of the
Arkansas; some of it's tributary streams on it's North side, also have
their sou [r] ces in a similar country, with the Southern branches of
the Kanzas river. The rivers Arkansas and Kanzas circumscribe
the length of this river, and interlock their branches to the West of
tho' it is more broken on the lower portion of the river; the bottom
lands are wide, well timbered, and but partially liable to inundation;
the soil consists of a black rich loam many feet in debth. the uplands
also consist of a dark loam overlaying a yellow or red clay; a majority
of the country consists of plains intersperced with groves of timber.
the timber still diminishes in quantity as you proceed Westwardly with
the river. on the South side of this river 30 leagues below the Osage
Village, there is a large lick, at which some specimenes of the bones
of the Mammoth have been found; these bones ar [e] said to be in
considerable quantities, but those which have been obtained as yet, were
in an imperfect state. Mr. Peter Chouteau, a gentleman of St. Louis,
made an attempt some years since to explore this lick, but was compelled
to desist from his labour, in consequence of the quantity of
water discharged into the lick from a neighbouring spring, which
he had not the means or the leasure to divert; since which time,
no further attempt has been made. The specimens obtained by
Mr. Couteau were large; but much mutilated. the Osage river is
navigable 120 leages for boats and perogues of eight or ten tons
burthen, during the fall and spring seasons; in winter it's navigation
is obstructed by ice, and during the Summer months it experiences an
unusual depression of it's waters, a characteristic of most streams,
which have their sources in an open plain country, or which, in their
courses pass through a majority of that discription of lands. the bed
of the river is generally composed of mud, gravel and sand, and is
but little obstructed by rocks or driftwood.
At the distance of five miles above the mouth of the Osage river,
Murrow[Moreau] Creek falls in on the S. side, 20 yards wide at it's
mouth and navigable for perogues a few miles. it takes it's rise with
the waters of the Osage river and those of Salt river (branch of the
Missouri) it traverses in it's course to the Missouri, a tolerable country,
well timbered and water[e]d. the mouth of this creek is the point at
which the Saukes, Foxes, and Ayouways usually pass this river [to]
wars with the Osages.
7 miles higher up, Cedar Creek falls in on the N. side, above an
Island, on which there is Cedar, hence the name of the creek. it
heads with muddy creek, and passes though a delightfull country in it's
course to the Missouri. it is well timbered and abounds in springs
of excellent water.
at the distance of ten miles further you pass the mouth of Good-woman's
Creek, about 20 yards wide. opposite to the entrance of this
contain lead ore, our surch for this ore however pruved unsuccessfull
and if it dose contain ore of any kind, it must be concealed. this Creek
takes it['s] rise in the highlands with Split rock Creek and passes
through a fertile country well timbered and watered. in the last nine
miles of it's course it passes through an extensive fertile bottom nearly
parallel with the Missouri.
Nine miles higher you pass the mouth of Manitou Creek on the S.
Side. it is but a small creek head [ing] a few miles back in an open
country; the land ab[o]ut it's entrance on the Missouri are of an
excellent quality and covered with good timber.
Nine miles further Split rock Creek discharges itself on the N. side,
twenty yards wide and navigable for perogues some miles. it waters
a well timbered country; the land about the mouth, appears to be of the
second quality, or at least inferior to that heretofore seen in ascending
the Missouri.
At the distance of 3 miles, still ascending, Salt river disembogues on
the S. side; being 180 miles from the entrance of the Missouri. it is
30 yards wide and navigable for perogues 40 or 50 miles; passes
through a delightfull country, intersperced with praries. so great is the
quantity of salt licks and springs on this river that it's waters are
said to be brackish at certain seasons of the year. one large lick and
spring are situated on it's S. E. bank about nine miles from the Missouri.
this river heads with the waters of the Osage river, Murrow
Creek, and Mine river.
Ascending the Missouri ten miles further we arrive at the entrance
of Manitou river, which disembogues on the N. side, just below a high
clift of limestone rock, in which we found a number of rattle-snakes
of large size. this stream is about 30 yards wide, and is navigable for
perogues some miles. about three miles from the Missouri on the
lower side of this river there are three small springs of salt water which
do not appear to be of the best quality. the country about the mouth
of this river, particularly on it's lower side, is a charming one; the soil
fertile in the extreme, and well covered with excellent timber. the
country on the upper portion of this river is but little known.
At the distance of nine miles further, Good-woman's river falls in on
the N. side; it is 35 yards wide at it's entrance; meanders through an
extensive rich bottom nearly parallel with the Missouri for some miles
befor it discharges itself. it is navigable for perogues 15 or 20 miles,
waters a fine farming country intersperced with open plains and praries,
and heads with the little Shariton river.
At the distance of nine miles Mine river discharges discharges itself on
the S. side, it derives it's name from some lead mines which are said to
have been discov[er]ed on it, tho' the local situation, quality, or quantity
of this ore, I could never learn. this river is 70 yards wide at it's entrance,
navigable for perogues 80 or 90 miles, and through the greater part of
it's course runs parellel with the Missouri; at the distance of 70 miles
up this river it is only 5 leagues distant from the Missouri. it takes it's
rise in an open hilly country with Bluewater river and some of the
Northern branches of the Osage river. the courant of this river is even
and gentle. The country through which it passes is generally fertile,
and consists of open plains and praries intersperced with groves of
timber. near it's entrance the country is well timbered and watered,
and the lands are of a superior quality.
Twenty two miles higher up the two Shariton rivers discharge themselves
on the N. side, the smaller falling into the larger on it's lower
side at a small distance from the Missouri. the little Shariton river
heads with Good-woman's river, and is 30 yards wide at it's entrance;
this country has not been much explored, the portion of it which is
known is fertile, and consists of a mixture of praries and woodlands.
The larger Shariton is 70 yards wide above the entrance of the smaller,
and is navigable for perogues nearly to it's source. it takes it's rise near
the Red Cedar river a Western brance of the river Demoin. the country
through which it passes is level, and fertile consisting of an irregular
mixture of woodlands and praries, each alternately predominating in
different parts.
Twenty two miles higher up, the Grand river disembogues on the N.
side just above a beatifull and extensive prarie in which the ancient
village of the Missouris was situated. Old Fort Orleans is said to have
stood on the lower point of an Island a few miles below this place, no
traces of that work are to be seen. this river is 90 yards wide at it's
entrance and is said to be navigable for boats and perogues a considerable
distance. it heads with the Rackoon river a branch of the Demoin.
The country through which it passes is similar to that discribed on the
larger Shariton river. about the entrance of this river the lands are
extreemly fertile; consisting of a happy mixture of praries and groves,
exhibiting one of the most beatifull and picteresk seens that I ever
beheld.
At the distance of eight miles Snake creek falls in on the N. side. 18
yards wide at it's entrance. it runs parallel with the Missouri nearly
it's whole extent, passing through a delightfull country, well timbered
and watered.
Thirty seven miles higher up Tigers Creek falls in on the N. side,
opposite to the upper point of a large island. some excellent bottom
lands in the neighbourhood of it's mouth; interior country not known.
Fifteen miles higher up Eubert's river and Creek fall in on the S.
side, opposite to an island, which concealed their entrances from our
view. they are but small streams, head with the Mine river, and water
an excellent country, consisting of a mixture of praries and woodlands.
Twenty six miles further, Hay Cabbin Creek falls in on the S. side.
it heads near the Bluewater river and passes through a good country.
the land is very fine and well timbered near it's mouth.
Seventeen miles above, Bluewater river falls in on the S. side; 36
yards wide at it's entrance; and navigable but a short distance. it has
one considerable fall, and several rappids well situated for waterworks.
it heads in an open country with Mine river, and passes through a
roling country. the lands are tolerably good; it's bottom lands are
wide, fertile and sufficiently covered with good timber; some beatifull
natural meadows are also seen on it's borders.
Still ascending the Missouri, at the distance of 9 miles the Kanzas
river disembogues itself on the South side; being 364 miles from the
junction of the Missouri and Mississippi. This river takes it's rise not
very distant from the principal branch of the Arkansas in a high broken
sandy country, forming the Southern extremity of the black hills. from
hence it takes it's course nearly East about 300 leagues through fertile
and leavel, plains & praries, intersperced with groves of timbered land;
it then enters a country equally fertile and well timbered, through which
it meanders about 20 leagues further and discharges itself into the
Missouri. it has been navigated 200 leagues and there is good reason
to believe from the appearance of the river and country at that point
that it is navigable for perogues much further perhaps nearly to it's
source. The rivers Platte and Arkansas interlock their branches West
of this stream. there are no obstructions to the navigation of the
Kanzas, it's current is gentle, and the bed of the river composed of soft
loam, gravel and sand; in the summer and autumn it's waters are trans
parent. about 3/4 of a mile from the entrance of this river on it's North
side there is a handsome bluff about 100 feet high, which furnishes an
excellent situation for a fortification; there is an abundance of excellent
timber for the purpose immediately at the place. The Colateral
branches of this river, and the most remarkable places on the same so
far as we have been enabled to inform ourselves are as follow—
| Names of Creeks rivers & remarkable places | distances from each other |
distances of each from the Mouth of the Kanzas. |
width in yards |
the side of the Kanzas into which they fall |
| The three rivers, near each other and about the same size |
- | 10 | 20 | N. |
| The St[r] anger's wife river | 5 | 15 | 35 | N. |
| Bealette's Creek. | 3 | 18 | 22 | N. |
| Wor-rah-ru za river | 1 | 19 | 40 | S. |
| Grasshopper Creek. | 2 | 21 | 25 | N. |
| Heart river | 10 | 31 | 30 | N. |
| The old Kanzas Village | 9 | 40 | - | N. |
| Full river | 5 | 45 | 50 | S. |
| Black-paint river | 27 | 72 | 38 | N. |
| Bluewater river and the present village of the Kanzas just below |
8 | 80 | 60 | N. |
| Me-war-ton-nen-gar Creek | 5 | 85 | 18 | N. |
| War-ho-ba Creek | 3 | 88 | 15 | S. |
| Republican river | 15 | 103 | 200 | N. |
| Solomon's Creek | 12 | 115 | 30 | N. |
| Little salt Creek | 10 | 125 | 30 | N. |
On the West side of the Republican river, about sixty leagues above
it's junction with the Kanzas, a small creek falls in on the S. W. side,
called Salt creek, the water of this creek is excessively salt, salt in it's
dry and granulated state, is to be found in large quantities on the
borders of this stream throughout it's whole extent; the earth on which
it forms, is remarkably furm, and the salt can be readily collected, free
from any extranious substance, by sweeping with a brush of feathers.
Ten miles higher up the Little river Platte falls in on the N. side, 60
yards wide at it's entrance. it heads in open plains between the Nadawa
and grand rivers, and through the principal part of it's course passes
through high open plains interspersed with groves of timber. 6 or seven
leagues before it discharges itself into the Missouri, it meanders through
a high fertile well timbered bottom nearly parallel with that river, and
receives in it's course severall handsom creeks, which discharge themselves
into it from the hills. at the distance of 12 leagues it's navigation
is obstructed by a considerable fall, above which, it is shallow and
interrupted by such a number of rappids, that it is no further practicable.
This fall, and many of the rapids afford excellent situations for gristmills,
and other water-works.
Twenty five miles further Turkey Creek falls in on the S. side, this
creek is but small, passes through open bottoms nearly parallel with the
Missouri, and in rear of an Old Kanzas Village. this creek once furnished
water to an old French garrison situated near it's mouth.
Thirty three miles further Independance creek falls in on the S. side,
a little below the second old village of the Kansas; is 22 yards wide
at it's mouth; it possesses some excellent bottom lands, and waters a
beatifull and fertile country consisting of high open plains and praries
principally; on it's borders, and about it's entrance there is a sufficient
quantity of timber. it takes it's rise with the Stranger's wife river, and
the waters of Woolf river. we knew of no name by which this creek
was called, and therefore gave it that of Independance, from the circumstance
of our having arrived at it's mouth on the 4th. of July 1804.
At the distance of 48 miles higher up Nadaway river discharges itself
on the N. side nearly opposite to the upper point of a large Island,
which bears it's name. it is 70 yards wide some miles above it's mouth,
and is navigable for perogues a very considerable distance. it takes it's
rise with grand River, Nish-nah-ba-to-na, and the waters of the river
Demoin; and passes in it's course to the Missouri through a fine fertile
country, consisting of a mixture of woodlands and plains; the lands
about it's mouth are well timbered and water [e]d.
Fourteen miles [further] up the Missouri, Woolf river discharges
itself on the S. side. it is 60 yards wide at it's entrance and navigable
for perogues a considerable distance; takes it's rise with the waters of
the Kanzas and Ne-ma-haw rivers, and in it's course to the Missouri
passes through a level fertile country principally open plains and praries,
tho' generally well watered and possesses a sufficient quantity of timber
on it's borders and near it's mouth. great quantities of grapes, plumbs
& raspberries are found in the neighbourhood of this stream.
Sixteen miles higher up, Big Ne-ma-har falls in on the S. side, opposite
to an Island covered with willows; it is 80 yards wide, and
navigable for large boats some distance, and for perogues nearly to it's
source. it heads with Blue-water river, branch of the Kanzas, and
throughout it's whole course, passes through rich, and level plains, and
praries. there is some timber on it's borders, and about it's entrance;
it's tributary streams are also furnished with some timber. the country
is well watered.
Three miles further the Tarkio Creek falls in on the N. side, twenty
three yards wide at it's entrance; it is navigable for perogues a short
distance. it heads with the Nadiway and passes through a tolerable
country of plains and woodland.
Twenty five miles higher up The Nish-nah-ba-to-na River discharges
itself opposite to the lower point of an Island on the N. Side, and is
50 yards in width at it's entrance. it heads with the Nadawa river
and passes through a fertile country deversifyed with plains meadows
of this country. at the Bald-pated prarie, it enters the Missouri bottom
and approaches that river within 300 paces, when it returns again to
the highlands, and continues it's course along the foot of the same
about 30 miles before it discharges itself. at the Bald pated prarie it
is 40 yards wide, possesses considerable debth of water, and is navigable
many miles; the country lying between the Missouri and this river,
from the Balld pated prarie nearly to it's mouth, is one of the most
beautiful, level and fertile praries that I ever beheld; it is from one to
three miles in width. there is a considerable quantity of timber on
the banks of the Missouri, and but little on the Nishnabatona.
At the distance of eight miles higher up, the Little Ne-ma-har River
falls in on the S. side. 40 yards wide. it heads with salt River branch
of the River Platte, and passes through an open fertile country in[t]ersperced
with groves of timber. it is navigable some miles for large
perogues. there are several handsome streams of fine water, which fall
into the Missouri both above and below the mouth of this river in it's
neighbourhood.
Fifty two miles higher up, Weeping water Creek falls in on the S.
side. it is 25 yards wide at it's entrance, heads in high broken plains
near Salt River, and passes through a roling country, mostly uncovered
with timber and not very fertile there is a scant proportion of timber
on it[s] banks and some clumps of trees are scattered over the face
of the country. there is some handsom bottom lands on this stream,
and the country is generally well wartered.
Thirty two miles higher up, and distant 630 from the confluence
of the Missouri and Mississippi, the great river Platte disembogues on
the S. side. The steady, regular, and incessant velocity of this stream,
is perhaps unequaled by any on ea[r]th; notwithstanding it's great
rapidity the surface of the water continues smooth, except when occasionally
interruped by a boiling motion, or ebullition of it's waters.
this motion of the water is also common to the Missouri, and Mississippi,
below the mouth of that river, and always takes place in the most rappid
part of the current; in this manner the water is seen to rise suddenly
many inches higher than the common surface, then breaking with a
rappid and roling motion, extends itself in a circular manner in every
direction arround, interrupting the smooth, tho' rappid surface of the
water for many yards. this ebullition of the water of those rivers, is
a singular phenomenon, nor do I know to what cause to attribute it,
unless it be, the irregular motion of large masses of sand and mud at
their bottoms, which are constantly changing their positions. The bed
particles of which, are remarkably small and light; these collecting,
form large masses, which being partially buoyed up, are hurryed along
at the bottom by this impetuous torrent, with irresistible force; sometimes
obstructed by each other, suddenly stop; and form large sand
bars in the course of a few hours, which are again as suddonly dissipated
to form others, and to give place perhaps to the deepest channel
of the river. From the experiments and observations we are enabled
to make, with rispect to the comparitive velocity of the currents of the
Mississippi, Missouri and Platte rivers, it results, that a vessel will
float in the Mississippi below the mouth of the Missouri, at the rate of
four miles an hour; in the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississippi
to the entrance of Osage river at the rate of 5 1/2 to 6 miles
an hour; from thence to the Kanzas from 6 1/2 to 7; from thence
to the Platte, from 5 1/2 to 6 miles an hour, while that of the Platte
is at least 8. The current of the Missouri above the entrance of the
Platte is equal to about 3 1/2 miles an hour as far as the mouth of the
Chyenne river, when it abates to about 3 miles an hour, with which
it continues as far as we have yet ascended it; and if we can rely on
the information of the Indians, it's current continues about the same
to the falls of the Missouri, situated five hundred miles above Fort
Mandan. The river Platte dose not furnish the Missouri with it's
colouring matter, as has been asserted by some; but it throws into it
immence quant[it]ies of sand, and gives a celerity to it's current, of
which it dose not abate untill it joins the Mississippi. The water of
the Platte is turbid at all seasons of the year, but it is by no means as
much so, as that of the Missouri; the sediment it deposits consists of
small particals of white sand, while that of the Missouri is composed
principally of a dark rich loam in much greater quantity. This river
has in some few instances been navigated as high as the Pania Village
with perogues, but it is attended with infinate labour and risk. Hunters
have also ascended this river in small canoes as high as the Woolf river,
a distance of 35 leagues; and the savages sometimes descend in small
leather canoes made of a Buffaloe's skin. When the Plat enters the
Missouri it's superior force changes and directs the current of the latter
ag[a]inst it's Northern bank, compressing it within a channel of not
more than one fifth of the width it had just before occupyed. this
river is 600 yards wide at it's entrance; and when we passed it, on
the 21st. of July, it's greatest debth of water was five feet. we were
informed by one of our engages, who is well acquainted with this river
for a considerable distance, that in many places it was from two to
bars, and that the navigation became wo[r]se, the higher he ascended.
the banks of this river are very low, yet it is said, that it very seldom
overflows them, or rises more than about 6 feet perpendicular above
it's lowest tide. The position of the head of the Southern, or main
branch of this river is not well asscertained; on connecting the sources
of the rivers better known, it appears most probable, that it takes it's
rise in the Rockey, or shineing Mountains with the Bravo or North
river, and the Yellow stone river, branch of the Missouri; from whence
it takes it's course nearly East, passing the heads of the Arkansas at no
great distance from Santa Fee, continues it's rout to the Missouri,
through immence level and fertile plains and meadows, in which, no
timber is to be seen except on it's own borders and those of it's tributary
streams. commencing at the Missouri and ascending this river,
it's principal subsidiary streams are first the Salt river, seven leagues
distant, falls in on the S. side, and is 50 yards in width. this stream
is however more remarkable for the excellency of it's salt licks and
springs than for it's magnitude. the whole courant of this river is
brackis[h] in the Summer season quite to it's mouth. There are three
principal salines on this stream; the first at the distance of 50 miles
from it's mouth, and the others at no great distance above; two of
these furnis[h] considerable quantities of salt in it's dry and granulated
state, the other furnishes salt both granulated, and in compact masses.
the granulated salt is found on the surface of a compact and hard earth
composed of fine sand with a small proportion of clay producing no
vegitable substance of any kind and is easily collected by sweeping it
together with a soft broom or brush of feathers. the massive salt is
formed by concretion, and is found either on the surface of the earth
over which the water passes, or adhering to stones sticks or other furm
substances washed by the salt water in it's passage. I have obtained
no satisfactory account of any fossil salt being found in Louisiana, altho'
repeated enquiries have been made off such as possess the best information
of the interior parts of the country; I am therefore disposed to
believe, that those travellers who have reported it's exhistance, must
have mistaken this massive salt, formed by concretion, for that substance,
saltpetre has been found in it's crystallized state in some limestone
caverns near the head of this river.
Thre[e] leagues above the salt river a beatifull clear and gentle stream
called Corne des Cerfe, or hart's horn river discharges itself on the N.
side. it is about sixty yards wide. it takes it's rise in some sandy
plains between the Wolf River and the Quecurre; thence runing Eastwardly
entrance of the Sioux river, thence veering about to the S. E. passes
through a fertile level country, parallel with the Missouri to the River
Platte. it is navigable a considerable distance for canoes and light perogues.
there is but little timber in the country through which it passes.
Ascending the Platte five leagues further you pass the village of the
Ottoes and Missouris situated on the S. side. 15 leagues higher up
and on the same side, the Panias Proper, and Republican Panias reside
in one large village. five leagues further still ascending, the Wolf river
falls in on the N. side. 400 hundred yards wide, and is navigable for
Perogues between 4 and 500 miles, and for large boats a very considerable
distance. This stream takes it's rise in a remarkable large fountain,
situated in a level plain, equadistant betwen the rivers Quicurre
and Plat, at some little distance below the Cote noir or Black Hills;
from whence it passes through level and fertile plains and meadows in
which there is scarcely a tree to be seen except on it's own borders, and
those of it's tributary streams. the current of this river is gentle and
sufficiently deep; it's bed is composed principally of a brown sand, unbroken
by rocks or drift wood, and has no rappids worthy of notice
from it's source to it's mouth.
At the distance of seventy five leagues higher up, Ringing Water river
falls in on the S. side, about 300 yards wide. heads in the Black hills
near the source of the Kanzas, and passes through an open tho' broken
country about half it's course; it then decends into a level and fertile
country composed almost entirely of open plains and meadows through
which it passes to the Platte.
Just above the black hills, th[r]ough which the Platte passes, a large
river said to be nearly as large as the South fork, falls in on the N. side,
after haveing continued it's rout along the Western side of the Black
hills for a very considerable distance. the distance from the entrance
of this river to the mouth of the Platte is not well asscertained. This
is usually called the Paducas fork; it heads with the Bighorn river,
branch of the Yellow Stone, in some broken ranges of the Rockey
mountains. it's upper portion passes through a hilly, broken and Mountanous
country, possessing considerable quantities of timber; it then
descends to a plain open and level country lying between the Rockey
Mounts and the black hills, through which it passes to join the Platte.
there are some considerable bodies of woodland on and near this stream.
The smaller branches of the rivers Platte & Wolf so far as they are
known to us are as follows; they uniformly water a level open country
generally fertile.
| Names of streams falling into the Platte | Distances from the Missouri in leagues |
width in yards |
side of the river on which they discharge |
| Shell river | 27 | 30 | N. |
| Short Leg river | 40 | 30 | S. |
| Deer Creek | 52 | 28 | S. |
| The Falling Creek | 70 | 20 | S. |
| T[h]ose of the Loups, or Wolf River | |||
| Little willow Creek | 42 | 25 | N. |
| Mustle shell Creek | 45 | 20 | N. |
| Elk Creek | 49 | 26 | S. |
| Gravley Creek | 54 | 20 | S. |
| White Bluff creek | 64 | 20 | S. |
| Deepwater Creek | 79 | 25 | S. |
Three miles above the entrance of the river Platte Butterfly Creek
falls in on the S. side, 18 yards wide, heads in the plains between the
Hart's Horn river and the Missouri; the courntry fertile with but little
timber.
7 miles higher Musquetoe Creek falls in on the N. side; it is 22
yards wide and heads with the Nishnahbatona river in an open country.
the Missouri bottom through which it passes is about 6 miles wide, level,
extreemly fertile and about one half well covered with timber.
20 miles further Indian Creek falls in opposite to the lower point of
an Island on the N. side, three miles above an old Ayouway's village.
it heads in the highlands a few miles back; passes through the Missouri
bottom and approaches the river within 20 feet, 6 miles above it's entrance;
at this point it is 5 feet higher than the water of the Missouri.
it is 15 yards wide.
8 miles higher up Bowyer's river falls in on the N. side. it is 25
yards wide, and navigable for perogues some distance; passes through
a country tolerably fertile, with but little timber.
Twelve miles above the mouth of Bowyer's river we arrive at the
Council Bluff on the S. side. this is one of the points, which in our
statistical view of the Indian Nations of Louisiana, we have recommended
as an eligible position for a trading establishment. it is a delightfull
situation for a fortification, & commands a view of the river
both above and below for a considerable distance. the base of the
Bluff is washed by the river about a mile; it is about 60 feet high &
nearly perpendicular; at it's lower extremity it leaves the river nearly
at right angles, decending with a handsome and regular declivity on
lying betwen itself and the river. the top of the bluff is a level plain
from one to two miles in width, and about five miles in length. This
place would be sufficiently convenient for the Ottoes, Missouris, Panias
Proper, Panias, Loups, Panias Republican, Poncaras, Mahas, & the
Yanktons Ahnah. if peace is established between the various tribes of
Indians inhabiting this immence country, it is more than probable, that
this post would also be visited by many of those wandering bands, who
inhabit the country west of the black hills. The principal difficulty
which will attend the erection of a fortification at this place is the want
of proper timber with which to build. there is a sufficient quantity of
a species of poplar common to all the bottom lands of the Missouri,
called by the French inhabitants of the Illinois—Liard, and by the
Americans Cotton-wood. it is a soft white wood, by no means dureable,
and of which it is extreemly difficult to make plank or scantling. there
is some oak in the neighbourhood but it is of an inferior quality. I concieve
that the cheepest and best method would be to build of brick, the
ea[r]th appears to be of an excellent quality for brick, and both lime
and sand are convenient. The drift wood of the Missouri will always
supply a sufficient quantity of fuell independant of that in the neighbourhood.
with rispect to quality and quantity of timber, this bluff is
better situated than any other for upwards of a thousand miles above it,
and equal to any below it for many miles.
Leaving the council Bluff and ascending the Missouri 39 miles we
arrive at the mouth of Soldier's river 30 yards wide. it heads with the
river Demoin, and passes to the Missouri through an open, level and
fertile country. is navigable for perogues a considerable distance.
44 miles further up Ye-yeau War da-pon or stone river falls in on the
N. side. this river is known to the traders of the Illinois by the name
of little Sioux river, but as they have given the appellation of Sioux to
four distinct streams we thought it best to adopt the name given it by
the Siouxs, to whos[e] country it's entrance forms the lower boundary
on the Missouri. this stream is 80 yards wide at it's entrance; takes
it's rise in a small lake nine miles distant from the River demoin, with
which, it communicates in high water through a small channel; the
river demoin is but shallow at this point tho' it is 70 or 80 yards wide,
and said to be navigable. this stream is navigable from it's sou[r]ce to
the Missouri for perogues or canoes, passes through a broken country
with but little timber. the land is tolerably fertile. an Easterly and
most navigable fork of this river is formed by the discharge of Lake
Dispree [d'Esprit or Spirit Lake] 22 leagues in circumference; this
miles. the country between the Demoin and Lake Dispree is level
with but little timber, and interrupted with a number of small lakes or
ponds.
From the entrance of the Ye-yeau War da-pon, to the Old Maha Village,
a distance of 100 miles, there is not a single stream which discharges
itself into the Missouri, that is worthy of' notice. The Maha
creek, on which the last village occupyed by that nation was situated at
some little distance from the Missouri, discharges itself on the S. side
through several channels. this creek is but small, takes it's rise in some
level and fertile praries near the Hart's Horn river and passes through
a delightfull country in it's course to the Missouri. the distance from
the old Maha village to the Council Bluff is 90 miles by land.
16 miles higher up Floyds river falls in on the N. side 38 yards wide.
This river is the smallest of those called by the trade[r]s of the Illinois
the two rivers of the Sioux, but which with a view to discrimination, we
have thought proper to call Floyd's river in honor of Sergt. Charles Floyd,
a worthy and promising young man, one of our party who unfortunately
died on the 20th. of August 1804, and was buried on a high bluff just
below the entrance of this stream. This river takes it's rise with the
waters of the rivers Sioux and Demoin; from whence it takes it's course
nearly S. W. to the Missouri, meandering through level and fertile,
plains and meadows, intersperced with groves of timber. it is navigable
for perogues nearly to it's source.
3 miles above Floyds river, The river Sioux disembogues on the N.
side above a bluff; it is one hundred and ten yards wide at it's entrance,
and navigable nearly to it's source; with the exception of one fall of
about twenty feet high, situated 70 leages from it's mouth. it takes it's
rise with the St. Peter's and Vulter rivers, in a high broken and woody
country called the Hills of the prarie. it waters a deversifyed country,
generally level fertile and uncovered with timber; in some parts particularly,
near the falls, it is broken & stoney, and in others, intersected by
a great number of small lakes which possess some timber generally on
their borders. at no great distances below the falls and in a remarkable
bend of the river, three handsom streams fall in on it's East Side at no
great distance from each other; the 1st. ascending is the Prickley Pear river,
which takes It's rise in some small lakes near the Demoin the 2nd. The
River of the Rock, passes the head of the River Demoin, and takes it's
rise in small lakes. the third is called red pipe stone river, which heads
with the waters of the River St. Peters. the country watered by this last
river is remarkable for furnishing a red stone, of which the savages make
distances to obtain this stone, and it is ascerted, tho' with what justice
I will not pretend to determine, that all nations are at peace with each
other while in this district of country, or on the waters of this river.
Sixty miles above the Sioux river the White Stone river discharges
itself on the N. side. it is 30 yards wide at it's entrance, heads in a
chain of Nobs West of the bend of the Sioux river, and passes in it's
whole course through level—beautifull and fertile plains and meadows
entirely destitute of timber. it is not navigable.
20 miles higher up little bow creek falls in on the S side, below an
old Maha village. it is 20 yards wide and waters a beautifull, fertile,
plain, and open country. the remains of two small ancient fortifications,
are found on this creek at a short distance from it's entrance.
12 Miles higher up, and distant 974 from the junction of the Missouri
and Mississippi, the river James discharges itself; it is 90 yards
wide, and navigable for perogues a very considerable distance; it's current
is gentle and it's bed composed of mud and sand. it takes it's
rise with Chyinne river, branch of Red river which discharges itself into
Lake Winipic. This st[r]eam pases through an open country of plains
and meadows through it's whole course. the land is generally fertile,
and a scant proportion of timber is found on the banks of the river.
The Siouxs annually hold a fair on some part of this river, in the latter
end of May. thither the Yanktons of the North, and the Sissitons,
who trade with a Mr. Cammaron on the head of the St. Peters river,
bring guns, pouder & balls, kettles, axes, knives, and a variety of European
manufactures, which they barter to the 4 bands of Tetons and the
yanktons Ahnah, who inhabit the borders of the Missouri & upper part
of the River Demoin, and receive in exchange horses, leather lodges,
and buffaloe robes, which they have either manufactured, or plundered
from other Indian nations on the Missouri and west of it. This traffic
is sufficient to keep the Siouxs of the Missouri tolerably well supplyed
with arms and amunition, thus rendering them independant of the trade
of the Missouri, and enableing them to continue their piratical aggressions
on all who attempt to ascend that river, as well as to disturb
perpetually the tranquility of all their Indian neighbours. I am perfectly
convinced that untill such measures are taken by our government
as will effectually prohibit all intercourse or traffic with the Siouxs by
means of the rivers Demoin and St. Peters, that the Citizens of the
United States can never enjoy, but partially, those important advantages
which the navigation of the Missouri now presents. it appears to me
that with the assistance of the garrisons of St. Louis, and Chicargoo,
of the Oisconsin and the other on the Mississippi at Sand lake, that the
passages of the trade[r]s to the rivers Demoin and St. Peters would be
sufficiently guarded. by prohibiting the trade with the Siouxs through
the St. Peters and Demoin for a few years, they will be made to feel
their dependance on the will of our government for their supplies of
merchandize, and in the course of two or three years, they may most
probably be reduced to order without the necessity of bloodshed. in
the mean time the trade of the Missouri will be acquiring a strength,
and regularity within itself, and an influence among other Indian nations,
which could not be easily interrupted by the Siouxs, when the government
should hereafter t[h]ink proper to reestablish an intercourse with
them, through the channels of the St. Peter's and Demoin rivers.
At the distance of 38 miles higher up Plumb Creek falls in on the
N. side. this creek is but small, heads in the highlands a few miles
back, and passes through beatifull level and fertile praries in it's course
to the Missouri.
8 miles higher up white Paint Creek, falls in on the S. side, 28 yards
in width. it takes it's rise in a broken Hilly and open country between
the Quicurre and Hart's horn rivers. passes through a broken country
with some handsome plains an[d] praries, it is not navigable. but possesses
many excellent situations for grist mills and other waterworks.
6 miles above this creek and at the distance of 1026 from the entrance
of the Missouri, the River Quiccurre (Qui-court.) or rappid river,
discharges itself on the S. side; where it is one hundred and fifty two
yards wide. this river takes it's rise in the Black hills, about one hundred
leages West of it's mouth, and passes through a variagated country.
at it's source and for seventy five leagues below the country is mountanous
rockey and thickly covered with timber, principally pine; the
bed of the river is interrupted by immence quant[it]ies of loose and
broken rocks, many ledges of rocks also lie ac[r]oss this stream over
which it tumbles perpendicularly from 6 to 15 feet. in this country
the Indians as well as some of the French hunters report the existence
[of] many mines. some of lead, others of a metal resembleing lead,
but of a lighter colour more dense & equally malleable; it is not stated
to be silver. this metal is said to be readily extracted from it's ore
which is a loose earth, with the heat of a common fire of wood. there
are said to be some sand plains of considerable extent lying between the
upper portion of this river and the Hart's Horn river. the country on
it's lower portion for 25 leagues consists of open plains and meadows,
with but a very small proportion of timber; the bed of the river here
is nearly or quite equal to that of Platte. it is not navigable a single
mile.
8 mile above the rappid rive[r] the Poncar river disembogues on the
S side, 30 yards wide. Three miles from the mo[u]th of this river on
it[s] S. side the Poncars resided a few years since in a fortifyed village,
but have now joined the Mahas and become a wandering people. Poncar
river heads in the open plains not far from the mouth of White
river, and runs nearly parallel with the Missouri passing through some
tolerably fertile plains and meadows.
At the distance of 114 miles higher up, White river discharges itself
on the S. side. it is 300 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable
for boats and perogues for many leagues. this river is perfectly the
Missouri in miniture, resembleing it in every particular. it takes it's
rise short of the black hills, with the waters of the C[he]yenne and
rappid rivers, in an open country; from whence it passes through level
and fertile plains & meadows, in which there is scarsely any timber to
be seen. some pine most probably grows on it's borders, I discovered
several sticks of that timber among the driftwood at it's entrance.
22 Miles higher up, the Three rivers of the Siouxs pass discharge
themselves, on the N. side, opposite to a large Island well covered with
timber. the 1st. of these streams which we meet with as we ascend is
35 yards wide, and is navigable for perogues some distance, with a few
obstructions of rappids or shoals. it heads with James's river, and
possesses but little timber on it's borders. the country on the upper
side of this river is a high level and fertile plain of many leagues in
exten[t] the lower side generally broken Praries, neither possessing any
timber worthy of mention. the other two streams are small, extending
only about 8 miles back, and water a country of high handsome and
fertile plains, with but little timber.
From hence to the commencement of the big bend is twenty miles;
in this distance you pass four small Creeks, which discharge themselves
on the S. side, and one on the N. side; these creeks take their rise at
the distance of 6 or 7 miles in the open plains, and possess but little
timber. the bottoms of the Missouri are generally wide and but badly
timbered. the big bend of the Missouri lies in a circular form, and is
30 miles around, while it is only one mile and a quarter across the
gorge.
5 miles above the uper extremity of this bend Tylor's river falls in, on
the S. side. this river is about 35 yards wide, and is navigable some miles
for perogues. it takes it's rise in an open country between the White
below the mouth of this river on the Missouri there is an extensive bottom
well covered with timber, consisting principally of red cedar.
55 miles higher up, the Teton River discharges itself on the S. side.
this river is seventy yards wide, and is navigable for perogues many
leagues. it heads with the waters of the Chyenne and White rivers,
and passes through open and fertile plains and meadows. possesses
some timber on it's borders, as do also it's tributary streams. in these
plains there is rarely an instance of a tree to be seen.
47. miles above the entrance of the Teton river and 1327 from the
Mouth of the Missouri, the rive[r] Chyenne disembogues on the S.
side, and is abot 400 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable for
perogues to it's forks near the black hills, a distance of 200 miles by
land, nearly due west from it's entrance. The Northern branch of
this river penetrates the Black hills, and passes through a high broken
well timbered country to it's source, the Southern fork takes it's rise in
the Black hills, on their E side, and passes through a broken country
covered with timber, to it's junction with the N fork; from whence
united, they take their course through a woody and broken country
fror some few leagu[e]s, then entering an open fertile and level country
it continues it's rout to the Missouri the timber of the Black hills,
and on this river near them, consists of pine and Cedar principally; on
it's lower portion Cottonwood and Cedar, of which however there is
but a scant proportion and that confined immediately to the river hills
and bottoms. about the entrance of this river we have recommended
an establishment for the purpose of trading with the Indians. it's position
is central and sufficiently convenient for a number of Nations and
tribes; but the difficulty of procuring timber for the purpose of building
is very considerable, tho' in this particular it is equal to any other
for an emence distance both above and below it. a difficulty also arises
with rispect to lime of which there is none in it's neighbourhood. large
quantities of tar may be procured on the river near the Black hills, and
may be readily brought down the river. tar and sand in the proportion
of one gallon to the Bushel, make a furm and strong cement. if an
establishment is made at this place, the work must of necessity be
principally formed of brick; there being no stone and but little timber.
the drift-wood of the Missouri will supply an ample quantity of fuell.
78 miles higher up, Otter Creek falls in on the N. side, 22 yards
wide, navigable a few miles in high water. it takes it's rise in open
plains nearly E. of it's entrance, and passes through a similar country;
very little timber in it's vicinity.
3 miles higher up, and on the S. side, the Sar-war-car-na river discharges
itself, 90 yards wide. it is navigable for perogues 40 or 50
leagues; takes it's rise short of the Black Hills with the waters of the
Chyenne; from whence it meanders through fertile and level plains and
meadows, almost entirely destitute of timber.
22 miles above, We-ter-hoo river discharges itself on the S. side. this
stream is 120 yards wide; and may be navigated nearly to it's source
in the Black Hills. It passes through a country similar to that discribed
on the Sar-war-kar-na.
2 miles higher up, and the same distance below an island on which
[is] the lower village of the Ricaras, the river Ma-ro-pa falls in, on the
the S. side; it is 25 yards wide at it's entrance; takes it's rise about 5
leagues west of the the entrance of the war-re-con-ne river, in open
plains. it passes through an uneven roling country, without timber,
and but badly watered, for the distance of about 50 miles, nearly
parallel to the Missouri, before it discharges itself. The Ricaras
obtain a red and black earth on the borders of this stream, which they
use for the purpose of painting their skins, or ornamenting their Buffaloe
robes, which at all seasons of the year constitutes a principal article of
their dress.
Leaving the mouth of this river and ascending the Missouri, at the
distance of 2 1/2 miles you pass the 1st. Ricara village, from 3 1/2 to 4
miles further, you pass two others situated on the South side near the
river. still ascending at the distance of 24 miles above the entrance of
Ma-ro-pa river, the Stone Idol Creek falls in on the N. side; 18 yards
wide. it heads in a small lake a few leagues distant and passes through
a rich level plain; the land is fertile but without timber. a canoe can
pass from the river to this lake.
37 miles higher up, Sar-kar-nak or Beaver Creek falls in on the N.
side, at the lower point of an Island. about 20 yards wide, heads in
some small lakes a few miles from the river, and passes through a level
fertile and open country.
3 Miles further still ascending, and at the distance of 1498 miles from
the entrance of the Missouri, War-re-con-ne river falls in on the N. side
just above an island. it is 35 yards wide at it's entrance, and is navigable
in high water to it's source. takes it's rise in an assemblage of
small lakes, in level and open plains, not very distant from the head
of James's river. in it's course to the Missouri it passes through extensive,
level and fertile, plains and meadows, in which scarsely a tree
is to be seen.
13 miles higher up the Cannon Ball river falls in on the S. side, and
with a few interruptions of rappids, and for perogues and Canoes nearly
to it's source. it takes it's rise in a level country with the Chesschetar
and the waters of the Wetarhoo rivers, from whence in it's course to
the Missouri it passes through a variety of country, some broken &
partially timbered, near it's source; other parts broken, hilly and bare
of timber, and in others beautifull and extensive plains and meadows,
with but little timber, all sufficiently fertile, and some extreemly so.
there is some Cottonwood, Ash and Elm on it's borders.
5 miles higher up the Fish Creek discharges itself on the N. Side; 28
yards wide. it takes it's rise in small lakes, in the open plains, and
passes through handsome plains and meadows, in it's course to the
Missouri; but little timber on it's borders.
35 miles higher up, Chess-che-tar, or heart river falls in on the S. W.
side; 38 yards wide; not navigable except in high water, and then but
a short distance. it heads with the waters of the Knife river in open
plains S. W. of the turtle mountain. in it's course to the Missouri it
passes through open plains and meadows, generally fertile, and always
untimbered. there is some Ash, Cottonwood, and Elm on it's borders.
14 miles higher up, Hunting creek discharges itself on the S. side.
it's bottom lands are wide and fertile with but little timber, takes it's
rise in, and passes through an open country of high plains.
50 miles higher up at the distance of 1,615 miles from the junction
of the Missouri and Mississippi, the Knife river falls in near the Village
of the Ahwahharways on the S. side a little above the Mandans. this
river is about 80 yards wide, but is not navigable, except for a few days
in the spring of the year. It takes it's rise in the turtle Mountains
about 90 Miles N. W. of it's mouth, and passes through an open
fertile country. there is a considerable quantity of timber on the upper
part of this river, and much more on it's borders generally than is met
with on streams of the same size in this open country. The Minetares,
Ahwahharways, and Mandans hunt principally on this river, and
many of [the] Minetares pass the winter on it, in small parties, of 5 or
six families.
As we have only ascended the Missouri, a few miles above the
Mouth of Knife river, the subsequent discription of this river, and it's
subsidiary streams are taken altogether from Indian Information. the
existence of these rivers, their connection with each other, and their
relative positions with rispect to the Missouri, I conceive are entitled
to some confidence. information has been obtained on this subject, in
the course of the winter, from a number of individuals, questioned
been carefully compared, and those points only in which they generally
agreed, have been retained, their distances they give, by days travel,
which we have estimated at 25 miles pr. day.
About fifteen miles above the mouth of Knife river, the E-pe,-âh-zhah,
or Miry river discharges itself on the N. Side. it is but an inconsiderable
stream as to width, but extends itself through level and open plains
about 30 miles N. E. of it's entrance, taking it's rise in some small
lakes, strongly impregnated with Glauber Salts. not navigable.
Ascending the Missouri about one hundred miles further, the E-mâh-tark', Ah'-zhah. or Little Missouri discharges itself on the S. side. about
the width of Knife river. takes it's rise in the No [r] thern extremity of
the Blackhills. and passes through a broken country with but little
timber. it passes near the turtle mountain in it's course to the Missouri.
it is said not to be navigable in consequence of it's rappidity and shoals.
About 117 miles higher up, the Ok-hâh-Ah-zhah, or White earth
river, discharges itself on the N. side. it is said to be about the size
of the Cannonball river; takes it's rise N. Westwardly from it's mouth
in level open plains with the waters of the S. fork of the Saskashawin
river, and passes through an open and level country generally without
timber some timber on the borders of this stream, it is navigable nearly
to it's source, which is said not to be very distant, from the establishment
of the N. West Company on the S. branch of the Saskashawin. if
this information be correct it is highly probable that a line drawn due
West from the lake of the Woods, in conformity to our treaty with
Great Britain, would intersect the waters of this river, if so the boundary
of the United States would pass Red river betwen the entrance of
the Assinniboin and Lake Winnipic, including those rivers almost entirely,
and with them the whole of the British trading establishments
on the red Lake, Red river and the Assinniboin should the portage
between the Saskashawin and White earth river, prove not to be very
distant or difficult, it is easy to conceive the superior advantages, which
the Missouri offers as a rout to the Athabasca country, compared with
that commonly traveled by the traders of Canada.
About 3 miles above the mouth of White Earth river the Me'-ah'-zah,
or Yellowstone river discharges itself on the S. side. this river is
said to be nearly as large as the Missouri, but is more rappid. it takes
it's rise in the Rocky mountains, with the waters of a river on which
the Spaniards reside; but whether this stream be the N. river, or the
waters of the Gulph of California, our information dose not enable
us to determine. from it's source it takes it's course for many miles
stoney, and thickly timbered. the vallies said to be wide in many
places and the lands fertile. after leaving the Rocky mountains it
decends into a country more level, tho' still broken, fertile and well
timbered. this discription of country continues as far down as the Oke-tar-pas-ah
–ha, where the river enters an open level and fertile country
through which it continues it's rout to the Missouri; even in this open
country it possesses considerable bodies of well timbered land. there
are no stream [s] worthy of notice which discharge themselves into this
river on the N. side, the country between this river and the Missouri
being watered by the Mussle shell river. the yellow Stone river is
navigable at all seasons of the year, for boats or perogues to the foot of
the Rocky Mountains, near which place, it is said to be not more than
20 miles distant from the most southernly of the three forks of the
Missouri, which last is also navigable to this point. if Indian information
can be relied on, this river waters one of the fairest portions of
Louisiana, a country not yet hunted, and abounding in animals of the
fur kind. The bed of this river is formed of sand gravel and yellow
rock. from the great rapidity of this stream after it enters the rocky
mountains, it is said not to be navigable. we are informed that there
is a sufficiency of timber near the mouth of this river for the purpose
of erecting a fortification, and the necessary buildings. in point of
position, we have no hesitation in declaring our belief, of it's being one
of the most eligible and necessary, that can be chosen on the Missouri,
as well in a governmental point of view, as that of affording to our
citizens the benefit of a most lucrative fur trade. this establishment
might be made to hold in check the views of the British N. West Company
on the fur-trade of the upper part of the Missouri, which we believe
it is their intention to monopolize if in their power. They have
for several years maintained a partial trade with the Indian nations on
the Missouri near this place, over land from their establishment at the
entrance of Mouse river on the Assinniboin, unlicenced by the Spanish
government, then the sovereigns of the country. But since the U'States
have acquired Louisiana, we are informed, that relying on the privilege
extended to them by our treaty with Great Britain, they intend fixing
a permanent establishment on the Missouri near the mouth of Knife
river, in the course of the present summer. if this powerfull and ambitious
company, are suffered uninterruptedly to prosecute their trade
with the nations inhabiting the upper portion of the Missouri, and thus
acquire an influence with those people; it is not difficult to conceive
the obstructions, which they might hereafter through the medium of that
of the Missouri. whether the privileges extended to British subjects, under
existing treaties with that power, will equally effect a territory not in
our possession at the time those treaties were entered into, is not for me
to determine; but it appears to me, that in this rispect Liouisiana is
differently situated, from the other territory of the United States.
The tributary streams of the Yellow stone river so far as we have
been enabled to inform ourselves are as follow.
| Names of the subsidiary streams of the Yellow Stone river, ascending from it's entrance |
distance from each other & of the 1st. from the mouth of the river |
side on which they discharge. |
| Miles | ||
| Oke-tar-pas-ah-ha | 75 | S. |
| War-rah-sash, or Powder river | 75 | S. |
| Le-ze-ka, or tongue river | 50 | S. |
| Mar-skas-kap river | 100 | S. |
| Ark tar-ha river | 125 | S. |
| Ar-sar-ta, or big-horn | 75 | S. |
| Stinking Cabbin creek | 175 | S. |
About one hundred fifty miles on a direct line, a little to the N. of
West, a river falls in on the N. side called by the Minetares Ah-mâh-tâh,
ru-shush-sher or the river which scolds at all others. this river
they state to be of considerable size, and from it's position and the
direction which they give it, we believe it to be the channel through
which, those small streams, on the E side of the Rocky mountains laid
down by Mr. Fidler, pas to the Missouri. it takes it's source in the
Rocky mountains S. of the waters of the Askow or bad river. and
passes through a broken country in which, there is a mixture of woodlands
and praries. it is worthy of remark that, the Missouri in it's
course from the mouth of the yellow stone river to the entrance of this
rivr. passes considerably further to the North than the mouths of either
of these rivers; this information we have received since our map has
been completed. it will be observed by reference to the map, that
there are no streams falling in-to the Askow on it's S. side, from which,
it is probable, that the country nearly to it's borders, is watered by the
streams of some other river, and as the Missouri runs considerably N.
above the Mouth of the Yellow stone river. and that on it's nothern
border no stream of any magnitude discharges itself except the scolding
river, the probability is that the country very near to the Askow is
watered by the little rivulets of the Missouri, and the branches of the
West from the Lake of the Woods, in conformity to our treaty with
Great Britain, will intersect the waters of the Missouri, if not the main
body of that river itself.
About 120 miles on a direct line, nearly S. W. the Mah-tush,-ah-zhah,
or Muscle shell river falls in on the S. side. this river is about
the size of the Cannonball river, heads in a range of mountains which
commence about the falls of the Missouri, and extending themselves
nearly South terminate near the yellow stone river. this stream passes
through a broken and woody country. The woody country commences
on the Missouri just above the mouth of this river.
About 120 miles further a little to the S. of West, on a direct line,
the great falls of the Missouri are situated, this is discribed by the
Indians as a most tremendious Cataract. they state that the nois it
makes can be heard at a great distance, that the whole body of the
river tumbles over a precipice of solid and even rock, many feet high;
that such is the velocity of the water before it arrives at the precipice,
that it projects itself many feet beyond the base of the rock, between
which, and itself, it leaves a vacancy sufficiently wide for several persons
to pass abrest underneath the torrent, from bank to bank, without
weting their feet, they also state that there is a fine open plain on the
N. side of the falls, through which, canoes and baggage may be readily
transported. this portage they assert is not greater than half a mile, and
that the river then assumes it's usual appearance, being perfectly
navigable.
About 15 miles further on a direct line a little to the S. of W. a
large stream called Mah-pah-pah,-ah-zhah, or Medicine river falls in on
the N. side. this river heads in the rocky Mountains opposite to a
river which also takes it's rise in the same mountains and which runing
West discharges itself into a large river, which passes at no great
distance from the Rocky mountains, runing from N. to South. it passes
through a mountanous, broken and woody country. not navigable in
consequence of it's rapidity and shoals.
About 60 miles further on a direct line nearly S. W. the Missouri
passes through the first connected chain of the Rocky mountains. and
is said to be rapid and shoaly from hence to the second chain of the
rocky Mountains a distance of 75 miles further, about the same course
last mentioned. above this second range of mountains the current of
the Missouri is said to be smoth even and gentle; here two small rivers
fall in on the S. side, receiving their waters from the west side [of]
these mountains between the Missouri and the Yellow stone river.
Still proceeding S. W. about 75 miles further the Missouri divides
itself into three nearly equal branches just above a third chain of very
high mountains, all these streams are navigable for some distance. the
most No [r] thern is the largest, and is navigable to [the] foot of [a]
chain of high mountains, being the ridge which divides the the waters of
the Atlantic from those of the Pacific ocean. the Indians assert that
they can pass in half a day from the foot of this mountain on it's East
side to a large river which washes it's Western base, runing from S. to
N. at no great distance below the Flat-head Indians live in one considerable
village on the western border of this river, this is the utmost
extent of the war exurtions of the Minetares and we have therefore
been unable to acquire any information further West than the view
from the top of thes[e] mountains extend. The Indians inform us that
the country on the Western side of this river consists of open & level
plains like those they themselves inhabit, with a number of barren sandy
nobs irregularly scattered over the face of the country; the E. side of the
river, betwen it and the mountains is broken, and thickly covered with
pine. they state that there are no buffaloe west of the second range of
the Rockey mountains, and that the Flat-heads live principally on a large
fish, which they take in the river on which they reside. The Snake
Indians also frequently visit this Western river at certain seasons of the
year, for the purpose of taking fish which they dry in the sun and transport
on horses to their villages on the three forks of the Missouri. This
river we suppose to be the S. fork of the Columbia, and the fish the
Salmon, with which we are informed the Columbia river abounds. this
river is said to be rapid but as far as the Indian informants are acquainted
with it is not intercepted with shoals. it's bed consists principally
of sand and gravel.
The waters of the Missouri are transparent at all seasons of the year
above the falls.
With rispect to other rivers, their Subsidiary streams, and their connection
with other rivers and streams, the map which is herewith forwarded,
will give you a more perfict idea, than a detaled discription of
them would do. the mountains, salines, trading establishments, and all
the other remarkable places, so far as known to us, are also laid down
on this map.
1st. U's Regt. Infty.
| SCIENTIFIC DATA ACCOMPANYING
The ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF
LEWIS AND CLARK Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 | |