University of Virginia Library

XIX.
A French Breakfast.[1]

MLE Prince de Talleyrand gave a dejeûner ă la
fourchette at which the illustrious Brillat Savarin
was a guest. This great philosopher gives us the
bill of fare, interspersed with his own reflections and
directions, which I have translated for the edification of
all gourmets.

Yours, P. D.

1st. Guinea hen's eggs fried in quail's fat, spread with
a coulis (gravy) of écrevisse (a species of crawfish), very
warm, each egg being a single morsel, and taken at a
mouthful, after having been well turned in the coulis.

Eat pianissimo.

After each egg drink two fingers of old Madeira. This
wine to be drunk with reflection. (Recueillement).

2d. Lake Trout with Montpelier butter, iced (butter
made with aromatic herbs). Roll each morsel nicely and
perfectly in this high-flavored seasoning.

Eat allegro.

Drink two glasses of fine Sauterne or Latour Blanche.
To be drunk contemplatively.

3d. Fillets of the breast of Grouse, with white truffles
of Piemant—raw, in slices.

Place each fillet between two layers of truffles, and let
them soak well in gravy á la périgueux, made of black
truffles served apart.

Eat forte, on account of the white truffles being raw.

Drink two glasses of Château Margaux; the beautiful
flavor of this wine will be most apparent after drinking.

4th. Roasted Rail on a Crust, a lá Sardanapale; the
legs and side-bones to be eaten only; the leg not to be
cut in two; take it between the thumb and fingers; salt
it lightly; put the thigh part between the teeth and chew
it all, meat and bone.

Eat largo and fortissimo, at the same time take a cut
of the hot crust, prepared with a condiment of liver and
brain of woodcock, goose liver of Strasbourg, marrow
of red deer, and pounded anchovies, highly spiced.

Drink two glasses of Clos Vougeot; pour out this wine
with emotion, and drink with a religious sentiment.

5th. Morilles (a species of large and exquisite mushrooms),
with fine herbs and essence of ham; let these
divine cryptogamas melt in the mouth.

Eat pianissimo.

Drink a glass of Côte Rôtie, or a glass of very old
Johannesberger. No recommendation as to the way of
drinking this wine (the Côte Rôtie); it is commanding
and self-imposing; as to the Johannesberger, treat it
like a venerable patriarch.

6th. Bouchées la Duchesse, with pine-apple jelly.

Eat amoroso.

Drink two or three glasses of Champagne, Sillery Sec,
Verzeney, non Mousseux (still) iced to snow.

7th. Brie Cheese, or Estanville (near Meaux).

Drink one glass of Port.

Then, if you please, an excellent cigar (demi regalia
de Cabañas), after which one small glass of Curaçao, and
a siesta, during which you will dream of the beauties of
the dinner to come.

Each course of such a breakfast must be served only
at the time the cook is ready; the guest must wait, not
the cook, so that the dishes may be presented in perfect
order.