 | Idomen, or, The vale of Yumuri |  |
NOTES.
(1) Many of the most opulent inhabitants of the island
of Cuba, send their children to Germany, for the purposes
of education.
(2) This cavern, at a very short distance from the
flourishing town of Matanzas, is seldom visited, because
those in its neighborhood are intent only on their mercantile
avocations. Though it has never been entirely
explored, many apartments of it have already been entered.
An intelligent geologist would find, in it, much
to admire.
(3) On my first visit to the island of Cuba (in 1823),
I was struck with the beauty of these hedges: they seemed,
as it were, a wall of verdure, at least five feet in
thickness. The plantations where I saw them, were then
new, and they were impervious even to light, by reason
of leaves and blossoms. They were cut perfectly smooth
at the height of about five feet, except that some trees, at
equa-distances, were suffered to shoot to their natural
height.
(4) This plant makes a pretty border for flower beds;
the stocks, of a light green, are very succulent, entirely
destitute of leaves, and surmounted by blossoms of
a deep red colour, which particularly attract the humming
bird.
(5) The health of many foreigners would be preserved,
if they knew a little more of physiology, or the nature of
their own systems. By taking a little necessary repose,
even the amount of their industry would be rather increased
are up at this hour,” is a common adage among the
Spanish inhabitants of Cuba, while retiring, after their
principal meal, for the purpose of a refreshing “siesta.”
(6) The virtue of hospitality still exists, in a great degree,
among the plantations of Cuba. A party of travellers,
though unknown to the proprietor, are often received
and refreshed.
(6) In those oysters which I have seen, the pearl was
not perfectly white; but, perhaps, might be bleached by
some chemical preparation.
(7) I cannot forbear dwelling, for a moment, on the
extreme beauty of the plaintain leaf. When newly formed,
it is so carefully rolled, by nature, so as to present the
form of a spear. During the rainy season of 1840, a negress
unrolled one in my presence; it was full five feet
in length, and two feet and a half in breadth, and resembled
silk of a beautiful green, striped with different shades
of the same colour; while the central stem or supporter,
rather less than three quarters of an inch in diameter,
appeared like a slender wand of the finest polished ivory.
When perfectly grown, however, these leaves unfold of
themselves, and soon after break into strips.
(8) On a new plantation in Cuba, a man of taste may
do almost every thing he chooses, in the way of natural
or rural embellishments. In this particular the French
stand pre-eminent. Those who toil for gold only, usually
die either before or soon after it is obtained; while their
quarrelling survivors seldom reflect enough on past benefits,
to allow them even a tombstone.
(8) Nothing can be more curious and beautiful, than
the natural caverns and grottos of Cuba. A Frenchman,
near the “Cafetal Hermila,” (where the writer of this
these natural shelters, which situated, far up, on the side
of a precipitous hill, was almost an elegant dwelling. A
projection of the rock formed the place for his bed; and
a little way from the entrance, which was protected by a
door of wild vines, stood a hand-mill for grinding his
maize or Indian corn. In this place lived the planter,
till his coffee trees were set; his negroes, afterwards,
had time, under his direction, to make another domicile.
I saw the cave, while the stain of the smoke of his fire
was still visible; but it was afterwards destroyed, for the
lime and limestone at its base.
A grotto, not far from the same place, formed a perfect
“Chapel of Nature;” a concretion, shaped like a baptismal
font, and always full of pure drops, was kept supplied
by another concretion, which depended from the
roof, and looked like an angel's head rudely sculptured.
This last existed but two years ago, and probably still
remains; being on the side of a rocky hill, in the midst
of a tangled wood.
I once visited a grotto in the same neighbourhood, but
probably (as I recollect going one afternoon with a party
on horseback,) about three miles distant from the one
last mentioned. This little natural abode, contained
three apartments; some columns in it were so complete,
as to seem made by art; while others were about half-formed;
a slender cone or pyramid arose from the floor or
base, while another of the same shape depended from the
roof, with a drop as pure as dew at its extremity. An
entire column was formed by the meeting of these two
points. In one of the apartments was a soft soil, and a
natural tank filled with the clearest filtered water. High
pointed arches were filled with innumerable bats, which
flew about with a humming sound as we entered with
waxen tapers, because of the declining sun.
We could not have found our way, either to or from
this grotto, (through the thick woods tangled with innumerable
vines,) except for the assistance of an intrepid
under Napoleon; he, (with a sabre, such as were generally
worn in Cuba at that time,) cut a path through the
tendrils hanging from the branches above, and the luxuriant
foliage beneath, which had almost shut up the narrow
path. Our horses were obliged to proceed, with
their riders bending closely over their necks. The moon
being at that time invisible, we were compelled to be
very careful in thus making our way back to our retreat.
This last-mentioned grotto was seen by the writer in the
year 1824; the other very recently.
(9) It is unpleasant to observe the indifference with
which death is regarded, among the commercial inhabitants
of this warm island. In the midst, however, of
their blind indifference, events frequently occur, which,
in pathos, might baffle the most romantic description.
(10) Nothing can be more luxuriant than the blossom
of this vine or creeper. It bears a close resemblance to
the passion flower, “passa cerulea,” except that it is
three times as large. The leaf of the plant is, however,
entirely different, being broad and curled. A fruit, resembling
the musk melon, is the product of these splendid
flowers.
(12) See life of Petrarch, by a lady. Hobhouse, in his
notes to one of the cantos of “Childe Harold,” is a little
offensive in doubting the Platonism of Laura and her
lover; but situated as both of them were, no other kind
of attachment was possible. A contemporary said to
Plato, who was conversing on ideas, “I can see a table,
but not the idea of a table.” Some there are, however,
who can see the idea, no less than the material. Le
Sage makes even Gil Blas understand the nature of such
love as that of Petrarch; as evinced by a passage in his
account of Donna Aurora de Guzman. A most beautiful
conception of the power of soul over sense, exists in the
“Atala” of M. de Chateaubriand.
(13) See note the seventh of this work.
(14) There is scarcely any beautiful design of flowers
and shrubs, which may not be effected in Cuba. The
rose is not a native of the country; but when brought
from other climates, where it blooms but one month in
the year, it will keep perpetually in blossom. From December,
1839, till May, 1841, I was actually supplied
every morning from one favourite tree, bearing small
white roses.
The seed or germ of this curious plant, is said to be
deposited by birds among the branches of some lofty tree.
However that may be, filaments resembling a small brown
cord are seen pendant from an immense height, growing
every day longer and longer, till they reach the ground,
where they take root. Other shoots, springing up, meet
other depending filaments, and interlace themselves about
the tree whence they sprung, until at last they entirely
conceal and destroy it, forming of themselves, by means
of its support, an immense tree in its place; when full
grown, a dead trunk may generally be seen through interstices
near its root; when half formed about the other
tree, which is still alive, I have heard it called, in derision,
“a Scotchman embracing a Creole.”
(15) Many beautiful doves are natives of the woods of
Cuba. I have seen them of the size of a fieldfare or robin;
and the delicate little creatures utter the most plaintive
moan that it is possible to conceive of.
(16) The tameness of the small lizard is very surprising.
When approached by a human being it never attempts
to move, but continues lapping the dew or standing
perfectly still, with a certain expression in its eyes
which might seem to indicate reason. There was once,
was on certain occasions sent to warn persons of danger.
The degree of heat that the negro can endure, is very
astonishing. I have seen women take their little children
to the “secaderos,” or coffee dryers, at the hottest season
and hottest hours of the day, where they would all sit and
luxuriate in the sunbeams, though eggs might almost
have been cooked on the plaster beneath them.
(18) I have never, in Cuba, seen the slightest frost;
but there are some days in winter, when a little fire is
grateful, although very few indulge in it except the negroes.
(19) Great pains must be taken in order to preserve
papers in the West Indies: letters, engravings, and even
books bound in boards, are soon devoured by the insects.
(20) In the year 1831, (I know not what may have
been done since,) one might stand on a rampart of Quebec,
and see plainly the last dwelling of civilized man intervening
between himself and the North pole. Huts of
the savages were, of course, scattered beyond. My attention
to this circumstance was directed by a gentleman
in the profession and practice of law, who had lived
in Canada fifty years in matrimony with the same lady.
(21) Tin is a common covering for house tops and
spires of churches in Canada, where it neither rusts nor
corrodes.
(22) See note 20.
(23) The snow in Canada is often so deep, as to cover
the walls and fences of every common inclosure. On
such occasions, the roads are marked out by branches of
evergreen.
(24) No beings on earth can possibly lead lives more
blameless, than the Catholic fathers in Canada. The director
of the seminary alluded to, was accustomed to pronounce
weekly homilies to the youth under his care, together
with a large assemblage of neighbouring villagers,
and tears would often stream from his eyes while endeavouring
to impress upon them the truths of his religion.
The Roman church is truly said to be, above all others,
favourable to taste. Even in this remote place, the chapel
was adorned with many pictures, some of them very
beautiful. The superior, however, was an accomplished
man, who had fled from France during the massacres of
the revolution. Children from Protestant families were
admitted at this seminary for the purpose of education;
where the severest punishment they ever received was
that of being, after a fault, compelled to kiss the earth.
(25) In moments like the one depicted, there is something
very inexplicable. When parting from a country,
with a strong probability of never returning, I have felt
so happy in the immediate presence of esteemed persons,
as to make it impossible to realise that we haply might
never meet again, and surely never again under the same
circumstances. The many things which ought to be said
are banished by the vague illusion of another meeting;
but when the parting is over, and the fair opportunity
past, then comes the torment: we think of what might
have been, and could almost tear ourselves to pieces for
our own folly and forgetfulness.
(26) In the whole extent of the Western hemisphere,
there is, perhaps, no place where can be found grades of
civilization more entirely opposite to each other. Three
daughters of the Duke of Richmond were once seen, in
the height of their beauty and refinement, looking from
the window of their own drawing room upon the female
savage who crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe of bark,
so small as to be tied about her waist. By this contrivance
upset.
(27) See direction to the end of the volume at page
195. If I should trust my fascinated eye,—the attention
of the reader is also called to the meaning of this line. It
is said, that at the brink of any great precipice, there is
a certain mysterious influence, which tempts to a nearer
and nearer approach, till death is inevitable. I know not
whether this belief be or be not founded in truth: as for
myself, I never, when near such places, could stand at
all, and have always been obliged to resort to a kneeling
or sitting posture.
Page 202. See the description of groups in a steamboat
from Havana to Matanzas, in the year 1826. An
Irish gentleman, who was present at the scene depicted,
said it was “happiness in heaps.” In the New World,
however, the passion for change is so intense that nothing
remains very long. The steamboats on the north of Cuba
have now lost the oriental character of their appearance,
and assimilate to those of the northern republic.
(26) Those who go to the island of Cuba for health,
can only preserve it by living in a manner similar to that
of Dalcour. Excess, either in toil, exercise, or diet, are
dangerous in every climate; and in the tropics, they are
very soon fatal. Imprudence, impatience for gain, and a
want of that knowledge of his own system which is necessary
to every human being, are the causes of more
deaths than even the fever of the country.
Page 215. The description of the cocuya, as found
here, is by no means exaggerated; its account of their
qualities and manners, (if I may use the expression,) is
mere matter of fact. Persons, however, may remain
many months in the island, without seeing one of these
insects, as they appear only at the beginning of the rainy
season. I once succeeded in bringing twenty of them
weeks after my arrival; the voyage, also, was twenty-one
days long. During these six weeks the insects devoured
large quantities of tender sugar cane, cut fresh
from the field for their support. At sea, they lay in a
sort of sleep or torpor; but when immersed, every day,
in a vase of blood-warm water, (as is necessary, always,
for their preservation,) they became, for a time, resuscitated
and active, and would emit a brilliant phosphoric
light. When sleeping, however, the sailors thought of
them merely as “ugly black bugs, with two dim yellow
eyes.” They have, however, black eyes, besides two
yellow spots on each side of the head, which are not organs
of sight, but which emit an astonishing brilliancy
when the creature takes its evening excursions. The
principal light, however, is emitted from their breast,
which they open with a snapping noise while flying.—
Forty of them died on the voyage, and twenty lived, as
has been said, three weeks after, when the sugar cane
upon which they fed became sour. Honey and common
sugar was presented in its place, but they died one by
one. Their warmth, tameness, and apparent love of human
beings, are things worthy of remark.
I cannot close this volume without noting some of my
personal observations on the most useful tree of the country,
of the scene of the story of Idomen. The palm tree
of Cuba is not like the date or the Guinea palm, neither,
probably, like that palm tree to which Herodotus ascribes
three hundred and sixty-five different uses; it is, however,
a great natural curiosity. One large leaf, or branch,
falls regularly every month of the year, leaving a ring
around the trunk of the tree, by which its age may be
computed. I have never studied the botany of the tropics,
and speak only of what particularly arrested my attention
during walks, for more than a year, in a long
avenue planted alternately with palm and orange trees,
with shrubs and flowers planted between.
To the leaf or branch which falls monthly, is attached
a slip of bark, or something like it, of a vivid green
without, within as white as unsoiled satin. This slip,
being five or six feet in length and three or four in breadth,
is useful for many purposes. Tacked together with some
of the strong fibres of the parent tree, they make an excellent
carpet for the floor of a grotto or any other rude
dwelling; they also make a very good mat. The negroes,
when they sleep upon the ground, often envelope themselves
in these natural coverings; they also sometimes
cut them into sandals and bind them on their feet, after
the manner of the ancient nations.
When a number of these trees are planted together,
they do not all blossom at the same time. I have observed
them during the whole rainy season, and seen a few
in flower at different intervals. Two or three large clusters
of small blossoms appear just beneath the tuft of
leaves or branches, and generally, where I lived, were
covered with wild bees. A heap of fallen petals lay at
the foot of the trees in blossom, and the murmur of the
insects getting honey, called one's attention to the summit.
The palm trees of the avenue already mentioned, had
gained a height of forty feet from the ground to the tuft
of foliage, and every month added a ring of four or five
inches to their altitude.
The number of their leaves or branches corresponds to
that of the months of the year; one must not, however,
count the leaf ready to fall, nor the two new ones which
are always seen springing out.
The leaf or branch which falls every month, seems a
natural provision for the covering of the roofs of cottages;
the berries produced from the blossoms serve as food
for many domestic animals; and the stems of these clusters
of berries are used, without any preparation, as
brooms for the purpose of cleanliness. Except my own
apartments, these brooms were used throughout the
house where I lived.
The trunk of the palm tree being hollow, the woodpecker
delights to make his nest in it. I have been pleased
with seeing the pretty head of this bird through a little
aperture, as he threw out chaff from the dwelling he had
shaped within.
After peeling off the leaves or branches of a palm tree,
as is sometimes done, one by one, there appears a substance
formed of incipient leaves, but as white as ivory
cut for miniature pictures; this, at table, is considered a
great delicacy, when dressed with milk in the manner of
artichokes. It is a luxury, however, which can only be
had in wild places; for after taking away this heart of
its foliage, the whole tree is said to die. Palm leaf hats
are known as an article of commerce; and many creoles,
both white and black, are taught in their infancy to make
them.
Page 195.
An eagle rests upon the wind's sweet breath!
Feels he the charm? woos he the scene beneath?
Those travellers who saw the falls of Niagara while
the country about them was still a perfect wilderness,
have said that many birds, and sometimes even eagles,
would sail, as it were, upon the current of air, until retreat
was impossible.
Since the falls have become a fashionable resort, wild
animals, of course, have most of them deserted the place;
water fowl, however, are now not very unfrequently deceived
by the smoothness of the current, and perish in
the manner of the swan described on the page mentioned.
With solitary birds of the air, it also might once have
been the case. Dr. Goldsmith observes, that on some of
the stupendous cliffs of Norway, the numerous birds are
so unaccustomed to the sight of man, that they know not
his power to hurt them, and suffer themselves to be taken
with the hand; even birds, however, are soon taught by
experience to fly from danger. M. de Chateaubriand's
Mississippi or “Mechacebe,” while both were untouched
by any hand save that of Nature, is fine, perhaps, as any
thing of the kind ever written.
| Idomen, or, The vale of Yumuri | |