 | CHAPTER XXX. Travels in the interior of North America. |  |
CHAPTER XXX.
RETURN FROM FORT CLARKE TO THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH, FROM APRIL 18TH TO
MAY 18TH.
Violent Storms and Bad Weather—Arikkara Villages—Meeting with two Fur Boats—Fort Pièrre, and our Stay there—
The Mauvaises Terres—Sioux Agency—Cedar Island—Punca Island—Melone's Insubordination—Meeting with
Punca Indians—L'Eau qui Court—Meeting with the Assiniboin Steamer—Melone's Mutiny and Punishment—
Gardner as Pilot—Council Bluffs—Visit to Major Pilcher's Trading House—Belle Vue—Beauty of the Environs—
Caterpillars—Nishnebotteneh—Boubedoux House on the Black Snake Hills—The Otos and Missouris—Village of
the Kickapoos—The Cantonment of Leavenworth—Stay there—Dr. Fellowes.
Spring had but partially clothed the surrounding prairies with new verdure, even the willow
bushes, which are generally the most forward, had scarcely assumed a slight tint of green;
and, though some solitary ducks appeared as heralds of the fine season, the chilly temperature
reminded us that winter was still lingering. On the 18th, we lay-to on the right bank, on the
other side of Goose-egg Lake, and, on the following morning, encountered a very violent storm,
and I discovered that my pretty prairie fox had escaped during the night, a loss which I the more
regretted, as this rare animal has, probably, never been brought alive to Europe, whither I had
fondly hoped to carry it. We had now made all our arrangements for the voyage, and my
people had taken their respective posts. Our steersman, Fecteau, was very unskilful, and our
three rowers, Melone, an American from the Lower Missouri (whose real character we did not
learn till some time after), Bourgua, a Canadian, and an old Pole, who had roamed half the world
over, but was still the most industrious of the whole, all proved very indifferent workmen. Having
partaken of our breakfast, which was prepared on the shore, we passed the Butte Carrée at seven
o'clock; here we saw a troop of twelve elks, and many white cranes, swans, wild geese, and ducks
of various species. At twelve o'clock we reached Heart River, where we found great numbers of
wild geese. Our thermometer stood at 61°. At three o'clock we stopped at Picotte's winter post
meat, &c., but the house was now deserted. In the neighbourhood is a pond, to which our
hunters immediately bent their steps, to shoot water-fowl. In the vicinity they saw prairie hens,
woodpeckers, thrushes, turkey-buzzards, and birds of prey, also a couple of swans, one of
which they wounded, but did not succeed in securing, and brought back only a few ducks.
In the evening twilight, when we were about to lay-to, a troop of ten or twelve elks came down
to the river to drink, but one of my people, firing his piece prematurely, frightened them away,
and we thus lost our chance of taking one of these large animals. During the night a tremendous
storm of rain came from the north; on the 20th of April the whole country was covered with
snow, and at nine in the morning the thermometer had fallen to 35°. The storm obliged us to
remain at the spot where we had passed the night, and my people, who always lighted a fire on
shore, found but slight protection from the storm among the willow bushes. The thermometer,
at noon, was at 41°. The hunters had seen some game, but shot only a prairie hen, which had a
strong taste of garlic, the chief food of this bird. The snow ceased to fall at about four o'clock;
the night was cold, and the men who slept near the fire were aroused by some wild animal, which
made them conjecture that Indians were near, on which Chardon, who had lived many years
among the Osages, set a watch for the rest of the night.
On the 21st we passed the mouth of Cannon-ball River. The hills were sprinkled with
snow, and not a vestige of verdure was to be seen, though, the preceding day, the willows
and rose-bushes had a tinge of green. Our hunters again set out on an excursion towards a
neighbouring lake, where they saw many cranes and water-fowl, but shot only a few ducks.
Some cabris crossed the river right in front of us, but, in spite of the exertions of our rowers, we
could not overtake them. We were equally unsuccessful with a herd of buffalo cows and some
bulls. The following day was again so stormy that we were not able to proceed on our voyage,
and the wind threatened to rend our leathern tent on deck; the country was covered with snow:
towards evening the wind abated, the night was pleasant, and the next morning opened upon us calm
and cheerful. The poplar and other thickets were beginning to bud, and some of the willow bushes
were quite green. Cabris were seen in the prairie, vultures in the air, and pigeons on the bank.
At noon we reached the abandoned Arikkara villages, and landed a little further down.
While our dinner was preparing, Mr. Bodmer and Chardon, well armed, made an excursion
to the forsaken Indian huts, in order to procure for me some skulls and prairie bulbs. They
found the graves partly turned up by the wolves, and the bodies pulled out, wrapped in their
blankets and robes. They brought two well preserved male skulls, which I added to my collection;
one of these is now in the anatomical museum of the university of Bonn, and the other
in the collection of Mr. Blumenbach at Göttingen. At half-past four o'clock, when we had
proceeded about ten miles from the villages, and were opposite the mouth of the Grand River, we
people to warm themselves. While here, a couple of flocks of more than 160 pelicans passed over
us in their way up the river, but we did not succeed in obtaining any of these fine birds. Towards
evening the storm and rain, mingled with snow, were so extremely violent, that our boat was driven
by the waves against the stones on the bank, and became leaky. Our people on shore found no
protection under their blankets; they were kept awake throughout the night, and were frequently
obliged to bale the water out of the boat. Towards midnight there was a frost, and on the
morning of the 24th the country was again covered with snow. Our effects, which had, in the
first instance, been completely soaked by the water, were frozen quite stiff. At eight o'clock
the thermometer was at 33°, with a north-west wind. We saw a good deal of game, and Dreidoppel
wounded, at a great distance, a cabri, in the midst of a troop of eighteen or twenty of
those animals, but unfortunately brought us back nothing but a prairie dog. In the evening we
lay-to at a steep bank opposite the mouth of Little Chayenne River.
Early in the morning of the 25th we perceived a couple of fires burning on the bank, which
must have been but just left by some persons, and shortly afterwards we saw, in our van, two leather
boats, which we succeeded in overtaking in about an hour's time. The people had halted to
make a fire, and I therefore stopped to hold some conversation with them. They were Picotte's
men, among whom were Ortubize, with his family, and Papin the hunter, returning to Fort
Pièrre from the winter post, with the furs which had been obtained during that season. While we
were conversing with them, Dreidoppel collected prairie bulbs. Papin gave me a part of
a cabri; and the clerk who directed the boat, and whose name was likewise Papin, gave me a
beautiful swan, but the large wing feathers were unhappily pulled out. The weather being very
warm and fine, we rested here till eleven o'clock, and I then received into my boat a couple of
women and a man named Crenier, who had been severely wounded. We passed the mouth of
Big Chayenne River, and halted in the evening fifteen or twenty miles above Fort Pièrre. The
heavily laden leathern boats having likewise come up, and set up their tents on the bank, we
bivouacked together, and supped magnificently upon our roasted swan.
About two o'clock of the afternoon of the following day (the 26th), after our boat had
several times run aground, we reached the landing-place at Fort Pièrre. Here there was still
snow in the ravines of the mountains, and the bushes were but just beginning to bud. Several
Sioux Indians, who were on the bank, shook hands with us. Mr. Laidlow, with some clerks of
the Company, came to meet us, and conducted us to the fort, amidst a salute of several
cannon-shot.
Fort Pièrre was in excellent condition. The whole surrounding plain was covered with
scattered tents of the Sioux, mostly of the Teton branch, and a few Yanktonans. Mr. Laidlow
very kindly accommodated us, and assigned to us a spacious dwelling: I caused my boat to be
bears. We found Fort Pièrre in great want of fresh provisions, no buffaloes having been
seen during the whole winter, and the inmates of the fort, as well as the Indians, being very
numerous. I could easily have taken on board, at Fort Clarke, a considerable cargo of maize for
Fort Pièrre, but we had not been informed that there was any scarcity existing here. For his
own table, consisting of ten or twelve persons, Mr. Laidlow had generally bought dogs of the
Indians, but these were now scarce, and consequently very dear: twelve dollars were paid for the
dog destined for our repast to-day. There were, however, many superior provisions in the fort,
which we enjoyed at Mr. Laidlow's table, after having long been deprived of them: one of these
luxuries was new wheaten bread, and there were also potatoes, cabbages, carrots, several kinds of
preserves and pickles, as well as coffee, sugar, tea, &c. I found here, also, a part of my stock
of provisions which I had brought from St. Louis last year, such as coffee, sugar, brandy,
candles, &c., which would have been invaluable to me at Fort Clarke. The brandy had, however,
been almost exhausted, and the cask filled up with water.
We were soon invited, with Messrs. Laidlow, Chardon, Papin, and the old interpreter,
Dorion, to the tent of one of the Sioux. After we had had taken our seats on a new blanket
ornamented with porcupine quills, the flesh of a dog was taken from the kettle, and handed to the
company. It was very fat, about the colour of mutton, but the taste was really so excellent, that
we speedily surmounted our prejudice and antipathy. Other Indians continued coming in, and,
ranging themselves in a circle, commenced smoking, but they suddenly started up, and left
the tent. Mr. Laidlow received as a present the robe upon which he had sat. Before we commenced
our meal, the host made a formal address to his visitors, in which he spoke of his attachment
to the Whites, for which Mr. Laidlow returned thanks through the interpreter. We went
back to Mr. Laidlow, where another fat roasted dog was served up. Mr. Laidlow's spacious sitting
apartment was filled the whole day with a large party of Indians, whose chief motive for coming
was to see us. Among them was our old acquaintance, Wah-Menitu, who was rejoiced to see us
again. Generally speaking, it was not Mr. Laidlow's custom to admit the Indians into his own room.
A high wind prevailed throughout the day, and my people slept on board the boat. The two
bears, which were brought into the fort, attracted great attention from the Indians, many of
whom were constantly assembled about the animals to look at them. The prairie in the environs of
the fort was already green, and several small early plants were in flower. I much regretted that
I could not remain long enough to visit the interesting tract of the Mauvaises Terres, which is some
days' journey from hence. Mr. Laidlow, who had been there in the winter, gave me a description of
it. It is two days' journey, he said, south-west of Fort Pièrre, and forms, in the level prairie, an
accumulation of hills of most remarkable forms, looking like fortresses, churches, villages and
ruins, and doubtless consisting of the same sand-stone as the conformations near the Stone
Walls. He further stated that the bighorn abounds in that tract.
On the 27th of April I visited the stores of the Fur Company, which contained goods to the
amount of 80,000 dollars. In the afternoon some hunters arrived, with twenty horses, who had
been absent about three weeks on a buffalo chase, but returned with only one horse-load of meat.
From their appearance I should certainly have taken them for savages. In the afternoon I took a
walk in the prairie, though my strength was not fully restored, and the sight of the verdant
plain was most refreshing to my mind. No birds were to be seen except the starling (Sturnella
ludoviciana), which enlivened me with its short whistling note. Below the ridge which bounds
the low bank of the river, the wild plum was covered with its snowy blossoms, which appear
at the same time with the leaves; the scent is exactly like that of the flowers of our
blackthorn. A small pink flower of the class Tetra dynamia covered the prairie. The beautiful
yellow blossom of the Hyerochloa fragrans was likewise open. The Indian horses, which graze
here, had now abundance of food, and quickly recovered from the effects of their fast in the severe
winter. I visited the tents of the Indians, of whom, at least, fifty had gone away this morning
on account of the scarceness of provisions. I was much struck with the difference of the physiognomy
of the Sioux, after living so long among other tribes. Their features are much less
agreeable, the cheek-bones more prominent, and their stature is lower and less vigorous than that
of the Mandans, Manitaries, Arikkaras, and Crows. On the other hand, the expression of their
countenances is more frank and good-tempered than that of those tribes. By way of comparison,
I subjoin a woodcut of the Little Soldier, our former travelling companion (see page 153), who,
at this time, was absent on an expedition.
Mr. Bodmer took several views of the country, and also made a sketch of the stage of a
distinguished Sioux warrior, whose remains had been brought from a great distance with
much pomp, and were covered with red cloth. Groups of Sioux were in the vicinity. (See
Plate XI.) My people erected a new awning with large tent coverings for our voyage down
the river; and I received, by the kind care of Mr. Laidlow, many fresh provisions of different
kinds, which greatly contributed to the perfect re-establishment of my health. On the 29th
Mr. Laidlow sent some men with pack-horses, under the direction of La Chapelle the interpreter,
to Fort Clarke, in order to obtain a supply of maize from Mr. Kipp.
A heavy storm, accompanied with rain, retarded our departure for some hours, but towards
evening the weather improved, and about six o'clock I was able to take leave of Mr. Laidlow
and the inmates of the fort. The crew of my Mackinaw boat now consisted of ten persons,
for I had obtained an able rower, named Dauphin, from Carondelet, near St. Louis, who was,
at the same time, a better steersman than Fecteau. A man named Descoteaux, who intended to
sell his beaver skins, of which he possessed above 200, in the United States, requested me to give
him a passage, in return for which he promised to work. I likewise took on board a sickly
young man, who was too weak for the service of the Fur Company.
We glided rapidly down the Missouri, and soon passed the mouth of Teton River, which is
about two miles and three quarters distant from Fort Pièrre in a south-easterly direction. At
this place, Messrs. Soublette and Campbell, the opponents of the American Fur Company, had
built a fort, at which I was not able to stop. We lay-to, at night, about six miles from Fort
Pièrre.
On the 30th of April we had a heavy rain throughout the day, so that the poor men at the
oars were wet through. Descoteaux, who had remained behind, and had run along the banks
through the whole night in order to overtake us, made his appearance at eight o'clock, thoroughly
soaked. The weather was so very unfavourable on this day that we found it necessary to stop
repeatedly, and kindle a fire, that the people might dry and warm themselves. We therefore lay-to
a good deal earlier than usual in the evening, near a very fine wild forest of old red cedars a foot
and a half in diameter. In the evening the rain ceased, and the night was calm. On the morning
of the 1st of May the weather was very cool: at about six o'clock we reached the Big Bend, where
Dreidoppel and Dauphin landed to seek for game, while the boat made the great détour on the
river. They found a number of impressions of shells on the burnt hills, and saw a large village
of prairie dogs, one of which they shot; in the dry bed of a stream they found several tents of
the Sioux, the inmates of which met them on horseback, and had some amicable conversation
with them. At noon the weather was warm, the thermometer being at 64°, and at three o'clock
we arrived at Sioux Agency, the post of Major Bean. Here we found Cephir, the interpreter,
and three white men, who were suffering greatly from want of provisions. No buffalo herds
the cabri. The Sioux constantly pursue this animal, and on our arrival sent one to the fort.
They were impatiently expecting the Company's steam-boat, with which Major Bean was to
return. Thirteen Sioux tents were at this time near the fort; others had been here waiting for
the steamer, but the want of provisions had forced them to disperse. It was not long before we
received a visit in our boat from Wahktageli, whose portrait Mr. Bodmer had before taken, and
who now repeated the assurance of his great attachment to the white men. We took advantage
of the fine evening to prosecute our voyage, and then lay-to on the north bank. Dreidoppel
had shot a duck, and several good-sized catfish were caught. The croaking of the frogs and
howling of the wolves were our vesper song.
The following morning (2nd of May) was very cool, and a thick fog hung over the river.
We soon passed the mouth of White River, but the wind becoming too high compelled us to
lay-to on the south bank, where the waves drove the boat with such violence against the rocky
bank, that it sprung a leak, and let in much water. We found it necessary to cut down a couple
of trees, and fasten the boat to them, in order to make it more steady. Meantime we made an
excursion to the ravines and hills. Cactus and yucca grew here in abundance, and some plants
of the prairie were already in flower; and on the banks of the stream the young foliage was partly
eaten away, which was said to have been done by the porcupines. We found prints of the footsteps
of some game, and, in the dry bed of a brook, traces of the musk-rat, one of which Mr. Bodmer
had killed. We likewise saw some black-tailed deer, and small hares (Lepus Americanus), the
beautiful yellow-headed oriole, the sparrow-hawk, the turkey-buzzard, and several other kinds of
birds. We left this place about noon on the 3rd of May, but made little progress on account
of the storm and rain, and lay-to in the evening on the north bank, not quite a mile beyond
Bijoux Hills. The storm became very violent during the night; most of the people slept on land,
as they were afraid that a tree which was standing very obliquely might give way to the storm
and fall on our boat: nothing but the state of weakness, caused by my illness, could have made me
so indifferent to this danger that I did not attempt to avoid it. The tree, however, did not fall.
The wind abated towards the morning, and was succeeded by such torrents of rain, that on the
following day (the 4th) we saw the water pour down from the left bank like cascades, the greater
part of the neighbouring prairie being overflowed. Opposite to Bijoux Hills we were for a long
time aground on a sand bank. Here we saw the first swallows returning to the north for the
summer. In the afternoon we reached Cedar Island, and, proceeding a little further, lay-to for
the night on the north bank. Vegetation was pretty forward; but no birds had yet come;
only the woodpecker and titmouse, which brave the winter, were to be seen. On the 5th, the
wind being favourable, a sail was hoisted, but at eight o'clock the wind increased so much that we
were obliged to stop at a large and beautiful island (Punca Island), where, having secured the boat,
killed an elk calf, and most of my people had gone with him to the place where the animal lay,
in order to secure the prize. We waited an hour and a half by the fire till they returned, when
I wished immediately to proceed on our voyage; but Melone, one of my rowers, stepped
forward, and positively declared that he would not go on board till he had had his fill of the
venison, though he had taken a sufficient portion of meat in the morning. A violent altercation
ensued; the obstinate fellow was compelled to go on board; but I was now aware of the character
of this troublesome American, who was so much addicted to drinking that it was necessary
to keep a watchful eye over him. We proceeded through the channel near the island, but
at the further end the wind suddenly caught the vessel, so that it was quite unmanageable, and the
sail was rent. We crossed over to the south bank, and lay-to near an extensive thicket of willow.
It was so full of climbing plants and trees, that we could scarcely penetrate into it, and tracks
of wild animals were everywhere to be seen. All the birds had sought refuge from the storm
in the thickest recesses of the wood, and scarcely a living creature was visible. We here
found, as on our first visit, the beautiful Sylvia coronata (Latham), and shot a turkey-buzzard,
the crop of which Fecteau took out, affirming that it was an effectual remedy for the bite of
venomous serpents. Towards five o'clock, as the storm abated, we proceeded on our voyage,
passed the mouth of Punca River, and soon after sunset came to three tents of the Punca Indians
on the south bank, where the trader, Dixon, with several engagés from Fort Pièrre, was at that
time residing. Primeau, the Punca interpreter, who, in the preceding year, when on board the
steam-boat, had communicated to me some words of the Punca language, was also with these
people.
We were informed that the Fur Company's steamer was near at hand, on its way up the
river, intelligence which was very agreeable to me. The Punca Indians whom we saw here
had a miserable, dirty appearance, and they, too, had suffered from want of provisions. They had
their hair cut short in the nape of the neck and across the forehead. Their leather tents, some
of which were painted, stood on a narrow green plain at the foot of steep hills, where the wood
had been felled and burnt. I here procured the skin of a skunk, which differed from all the
animals of this kind that I had hitherto seen. It was all over of a blackish-brown colour, with
only a small white stripe on the upper part of the neck. From this place I crossed the river, and
we kindled our fire in the willow thicket before the steep rocky hills. This place was directly
opposite the mouth of L'Eau qui Court. At daybreak on the following morning (the 6th of May)
we heard the note of the wild turkey, but did not stop. A large flock of pelicans flew up the
Missouri, and numbers of blackbirds were on the banks. We passed Rivière à Manuel, and
towards eleven o'clock saw the Assiniboin steamer, which lay still on the north bank for want
of water. We were hindered by the sand banks and the high wind from getting up to the Assiniboin,
thicket of willows, and behind it an extensive forest. The woodcutters of the steam-boat happened
to be engaged in felling wood, under the direction of a clerk, about a mile higher up, and, having
observed our fire, came to us towards noon. A boat was afterwards sent to fetch them, which
brought me a note from Captain Bennet, commander of the Assiniboin, in which he invited me to
make haste to come on board, as they were impatient to see me again, after so long an absence.
Captain Bennet also sent a number of men to row my boat across the stormy river, and with their
aid we reached the Assiniboin at noon. We were received with much joy by our former travelling
companions, Messrs. Sanford, Bean, Bennet, &c., and our accounts and news from the Upper
Missouri filled up a good part of the day. We also found on board our Indian friend, Schudegacheh,
the Punca chief, who was extremely glad to see me again. There was likewise another
chief, and several Indians. Schudegacheh's dress was remarkably handsome. His shirt was of
beautiful otter skin, with a red cloth collar: he wore a cap of otter skin, and a tobacco pouch
of the same material. This dress was extremely becoming to this fine man. The other chief
wore a robe painted with red figures. They had a long conference with their agent, Major
Bean, after which they took off all their clothes, and laid them on the ground before him, as a
present, so that they sat quite naked, except the breechcloth. Major Bean at first declined
accepting these things, but Schudegacheh would not take back his otter garment. The village
of these Indians, consisting of nearly 100 tents, was about four days' journey up L'Eau qui
Court.
After spending the afternoon and evening on board the steamer, we took leave of our friends,
and returned to our boat, intending to proceed early on the following morning; but, to my no
small vexation, I found my people in a very excited state, and partly drunk; Dauphin alone
seemed to know what he was about.
On the following morning (the 7th of May), Fecteau, Descoteaux, and Melone were still
intoxicated, so that our departure was delayed, and I had to bear the noise and disorderly conduct
of these men. We got over a dangerous place, where there were many snags; passed, at
eleven o'clock, the mouth of the Rivière à Jacques, and then, the wind being very high, lay-to on
the right bank. My hunters went to a lake, about a mile off, in the hope of shooting some
water-fowl, but did not succeed. I made my way, through the willow thicket, to the extensive
verdant prairie, where a red fox sprang up before me. I saw many birds of various kinds—
swallows, woodpeckers, finches, sylvias, and a couple of falcons (Falco cyaneus, Cuiv.); likewise
butterflies, among which, Papilio plexippus, and many Libellalæ, in very warm places, sheltered
from the wind. When I returned to the fire, I found my people asleep on the grass, in consequence
of their excesses on the preceding day: Melone, however, was busy in bringing his trunk
and other things from the boat to the land; after which he stepped forward, and declared that "he
to leave us;" so that we Europeans would have been left alone in this wilderness. The news of
this plot, arranged by the men in their drunken fit, during my absence yesterday, surprised me
not a little. I called the other people, and asked them if this was really their intention; but they
had now thought better of it, and protested that they would not leave us. Melone, enraged
at their want of resolution, broke out into violent abuse; so I told him that, conformably to
his wish, he might remain here by himself. On this he suddenly changed his tone, spoke
civilly, and at length begged for a passage to his native place, Liberty; but I kept him to his
word: we went on board, and left him alone in this wilderness. This evil-disposed man, who
had formerly been a soldier in the service of the United States, and was much addicted to drinking,
had exchanged his rifle, on board the Assiniboin, for a considerable quantity of provisions, a
hatchet, brandy, &c., and thus sufficiently proved his intention of leaving me in this shameful manner.
As he was skilful in the use of the hatchet, and had a sufficient stock of provisions, it would be
easy for him to make a boat of large poplar stems, and reach the neighbouring post of Le Roi.
On this day we proceeded twelve or fifteen miles. The country was flat, and the banks, in
some parts, clothed with fine forests. At sunset we lay-to at a convenient place on the right
bank, where a narrow strip of lofty, verdant wood filled the space between the river and the
steep white hills: there was an undergrowth of the red willow (Cornus sericea), which was just
coming into flower. The Fringilla Pennsylvanica was numerous, and fresh tracks of wild animals
appeared in all directions. At twilight a great many of the whip-poor-wills flew round the fire
within three paces of it, and quite stunned our ears by their cries. A couple of them were shot,
the first of these birds that I had seen.
On the following morning (the 8th of May), we passed some extensive sand banks, on
which we observed the avoset, and many wild geese. Towards ten o'clock we reached the
mouth of Vermilion River, where many Sioux Indians were at that time assembled: here commence
the lofty forests, which are peculiar to the banks of the Lower Missouri, and in which the
note of the whip-poor-will resounds in the evening.
I had been informed, on board the steamer, that a man named Gardner, one of the best
pilots on the whole course of the Missouri, and, at the same time, thoroughly acquainted with
the Indian wilderness, from his having been long engaged in hunting beavers, had gone down the
river a short time before me, and I was advised to overtake him, and, if possible, to engage him
as pilot, as our steersman was unskilful, and the snags in many parts of the river very dangerous.
We soon perceived Gardner's miserable flat leather boat, with a cargo of skins, before us,
and presently overtook it. I immediately offered to take his furs into my boat, which was more
secure, if he would act as steersman, to which he most readily agreed. His boat was very unsafe
and bad, and at the same time was so heavily laden, that its edge was scarcely above the water,
Stone, and had two men with him. We lay-to, and, while the people were transferring the cargo
of Gardner's boat to ours, we made an excursion into the interesting country. The chain of hills
was clothed with young verdure, and covered and surrounded with tall trees and forests; beautiful
thickets, mixed with cedars, grew on the banks; all appeared in the fresh loveliness of spring. In
the hollow upper boughs of the lofty, colossal trees, numbers of the purple swallow (Hirundo
purpurea) had built their nests; flocks of blackbirds were among the high grass, between the
trunks of the trees, where the little wren (Troglodytes aedon) poured forth its cheerful song; the
sparrow-hawk was sitting at the end of a high branch; and on the ground, among the roots of
the trees, we descried what we thought was a mouse running along, which, however, proved to be
a little bird; it was too near to be fired at, and we could not make it rise on its wing. At length,
however, we killed it, and found it to be the pretty little finch called, by Wilson, Fringilla
candacuta. The ash-grey finch (Fringilla hyemalis), the snow-bird of Wilson, who represents this
bird larger than it is in nature, built its nest here.
Towards one o'clock in the afternoon we reached Le Roi's plantation, and lay to at the
sand bank opposite to it, the wind being very high. We dispersed in order to try our fortune with
our fowling-pieces, but found on the bank an intricate thicket full of burs, so that we could
scarcely penetrate it. Numbers of birds animated this thicket, the cormorant (Carbo) sat on the
tall trees on the bank, the whip-poor-will uttered its plaintive note, and bats hovered over the
river. We passed the evening sitting round our fire, when Gardner told us anecdotes of
his many adventures and combats with the Indians. He gave me a particular account of
the death of Glass, the old beaver-hunter whom I have already mentioned, and which particularly
interested me, because I possessed the scalp of one of the two Arikkara Indians who were
killed by Gardner on account of that murder. The following were the circumstances of that
event. Old Glass, with two companions, had gone from Fort Cass to hunt beavers on the Yellow
Stone, and, as they were crossing the river on the ice further down, they were all three shot,
scalped, and plundered by a war party of thirty Arikkaras who were concealed on the opposite bank.
These Indians, who are most dangerous enemies to the Whites, went then to the sources of
Powder River, and it happened that Gardner, with about twenty men, and thirty horses, was in the
neighbourhood. As it was dark when they were seated about several fires, the Indians suddenly
appeared, addressed them in the Manitari language, surrounded the fire, and dried their shoes.
Gardner, being well acquainted with the character of the Indians, immediately took some precautions,
which was the more necessary, as a Manitari woman, who was with his party, told him that
the strangers were Arikkaras. He gradually collected his people round one of their fires, with
their arms in readiness to act. He was also afraid for his horses, which were scattered in the
prairie, and some of which were actually missing, and he had already sent some of his men to
are accustomed, when they intend to steal horses, suddenly to give a signal, on which they all
jump up, scatter the horses, and drive them away with them. Gardner, aware of this, watched
the enemy closely, and when, on the signal being given, they all withdrew, three of them were
seized, thrown down and bound. When the Arikkaras perceived this, several of them came back,
pretended to be innocent of the stealing of the horses, and begged for their captive comrades; but
Gardner declared to them that, if they did not immediately deliver up all the horses, the prisoners
must die; one of whom, however, had cut the cords with which he was bound, and escaped.
The Indians entreated for a long time, but were refused. The others seeing that they
must die, commenced their death-song, related their exploits, and affirmed that they were
distinguished warriors. One of them had old Glass's knife, and his rifle also had been seen
in the possession of these Indians. The horses, however, were not brought, and the prisoners,
alleging a pressing necessity, were taken aside; but in the thick copse they attempted to escape,
on which one of them was stabbed, and several shots fired at the other, who was then killed with
the knife. They were both scalped, and I received one of the scalps as a present, which was
unfortunately lost in the fire on board the steamer. Gardner, by way of precaution, had all the
fires put out, and passed the night in the fort, which was now completed. They were not disturbed
during the night, and found, in the morning, that the Indians had retired with their booty,
leaving the prisoners to their fate. The Arikkaras had begged for one of them in particular,
who was a celebrated warrior, and had even brought back three horses, which they tied up near
at hand, to exchange them for the prisoners; but Gardner did not attend to their request.
On the 9th of May we reached the mouth of Joway River, and at three in the afternoon
that of Big Sioux. The heat was pretty considerable; and we saw the great heron (Ardea hero-dias),
and a flock of pelicans, some of which were grey, go up the river. We then came to Floyd's
Grave, and at a bend in the river reached a spot, to the north-west of which there was a village
of the Omahas, of about fifty huts. I wished much to visit these people, but we could not well
stop, because our provisions were getting low, and we had already lost too much time through the
continued storms. In the evening we stopped for the night on the left bank opposite the mouth
of Omai Creek.
On the following morning the weather was fine and warm, the thermometer at eight o'clock
being at 72°. Wood-ducks in pairs, and flocks of wild geese and pelicans, attracted our attention,
till we reached, about ten o'clock, the beautiful green hills of Waschinga-Saba's grave (Vignette
XII.), where we saw some deer and wolves, and found the tracks of these animals in all directions.
The rising wind afterwards obliged us to lay-to, because there was a very dangerous place, with
many snags, just before us; but when the wind abated Gardner steered my boat very skilfully
between the snags. About sunset we passed the mouth of Little Sioux River, and lay-to three miles
amused ourselves with looking at the beautiful birds in the thickets. At six o'clock we reached
Soldier's River, and lay-to in a safe bay on the left bank. The weather was cool on the 12th.
When we set out, one of my hunters shot a cormorant with his rifle. At ten o'clock we passed
the ruins of the old fort of Council Bluffs, and in the afternoon reached Boyer's Creek, just before
which we saw the first plane tree on the Missouri. From this spot this species of tree becomes
more and more common as you descend the river, which is very winding. We landed, between
one and two o'clock, at Major Pilcher's trading house, formerly belonging to Mr. Cabanné.
Mr. Pilcher gave us a very cordial reception after so long an absence, and we passed the
whole day with him. A lawyer, of the name of Randolph, was at this time here to investigate
a criminal case which had lately occurred; an engagé had shot his comrade, as was supposed in
cold blood. There were not many Indians at the trading house at this time; however, there
were some Otos, Missouris, Omahas, and a couple of Joways, and Ongpa or Onpa-Tanga (the
big elk), the principal chief of the Omahas, was daily expected; I would gladly have waited to
see him, had time permitted my doing so. Mr. Bodmer took the portraits of an Omaha and an
Oto Indian. These two tribes do not differ in their manners, dress, and personal appearance.
They wear their hair short, nay, sometimes the head is completely shorn, except a tuft behind,
and in front; the upper part of the body naked, and strings of wampum in their ears.
At this time there was more order and cleanliness in Mr. Pilcher's house than during our
former visit, and the store had been removed into the upper floor. It contained a large quantity
of skins, among which were 24,000 musk-rats, which are sold at twenty-five cents a piece. The
packs of these latter were very regularly piled up in a square. There was also a good stock of
buffalo and beaver skins. Mr. Pilcher presented me with a very beautiful skin of a large dark
brown wolf, which had been killed on the upper part of Boyer's Creek; it is, however, not a
species, only a variety. After dinner I took an excursion to the neighbouring finely wooded
hills, which were now flourishing in the greatest luxuriance. Birds of various kinds were very
numerous in a beautiful gently sloping valley, through which the Omahas pass when they go
to their villages. Among the many kinds of trees and shrubs, I observed cratægas, or pyrus,
twenty feet in height, covered with white blossoms, oaks, elms, &c. Near the house very fine
cattle were grazing, and numbers of swine, all of which roamed at liberty in the woods. There
are extensive plantations of maize and fields of potatoes, and Mr. Pilcher was so good as to
furnish me with a supply of provisions from his store. This place had likewise been visited by
the cholera in the preceding summer, but it had not carried off so many persons as at
Dougherty's agency at Belle Vue, because Mr. Pilcher had a better stock of medicines. At nightfall
we took leave of Mr. Pilcher, and went on board our boat, intending to proceed early the
next morning, the 13th of May. During the night a dog stole a part of our stock of meat, the
right bank of the river, at a lovely verdant prairie covered with thickets and tall insulated trees.
There we found many beautiful birds; among them were numbers of the red-breasted Fringilla
ludoviciana); we shot a good many of them, but they were so fat that we had considerable
difficulty in preserving the skins. We had a fruitless chase after some wild turkeys. Towards
noon we arrived at Belle Vue, Major Dougherty's agency, which is about thirty-four miles from
Pilcher's trading house, and lies at the foot of the wooded chain of hills on which Mr. Pilcher's
residence is situated. We landed, but unfortunately found only a few engagés, for Major
Dougherty was absent at St. Louis, and was not expected to return till the middle of July.
The majority of the persons whom we had seen here on our first visit had died of cholera,
during the preceding summer, seven of ten persons having been carried off in the short space of
twenty-four hours. They had all been buried by one man, who was now here, and who himself
was ill when he was obliged to perform this last office for the dead. The disease had, however,
quite passed away, and the fort was now healthy. The environs of Belle Vue presented
great attractions to the naturalist at this season. The richly wooded hills, with their deep
shady ravines and wild glens, were animated by the cuckoo, and a number of splendid birds,
while innumerable bright winged butterflies fluttered about over the strawberry blossoms, the
magnificent azure phlot, and a variety of other beautiful flowers.
After we had luxuriated in this romantic spot, we returned to take in a stock of provisions,
and, being refreshed by that great rarity, a glass of new milk, we continued our journey. Towards
noon we reached the mouth of the river La Platte, which is about six miles distant from Belle
Vue. At sunset we passed Fife-Barrel Creek, and stopped opposite an island of the same name
on the right bank of the Missouri. As soon as we landed I set out with my gun in my hand, and,
passing through a lofty avenue of willows, came to a narrow marsh, quite overgrown with typha.
The ground was swampy, but the racoons had trod a regular footpath. The morass was bounded
by hills covered with trees and bushes of the loveliest verdure, enlivened by the baltimore and
the green icteria. The latter incessantly poured forth its song, which contains a strophe similar
to that of the nightingale. It is remarkable that the cheerfulness and activity of these birds
increase greatly towards evening. The whip-poor-wills were very numerous in the willow copse
on the bank, and in the evening twilight their notes resounded on every side.
The morning of the 14th opened brightly upon us, and we set out early and passed Weeping-water
River, landing several times to pursue the wild turkeys, whose note attracted us to their
retreats. We often saw these proud birds in the lofty trees, perched up beyond the reach of
small shot. The most beautiful birds of this country select for their resort the airy summits of
the woods, especially of the fine primeval forest on the bank, where we lay-to at ten o'clock.
This noble forest comprises all the varied trees of this climate, with an undergrowth of prickly
are tall, straight, and closely crowded together; many were lying on the ground decayed,
covered with moss and lichens, which frequently impeded our progress. Here we soon shot a
variety of birds, and saw some parrots, which Gardner had already observed on Weeping-water
River. In short we might have found here ample employment for a long time. A particular
species of caterpillar abounded to such a degree in these forests, that all the branches of the trees,
especially the willows and poplars, were thickly loaded with them. As soon as we entered the
copses our clothes were covered with these caterpillars and their webs. We lay-to for the night
about a mile below Little Nemawha Creek, where Dauphin caught a catfish weighing 15 lbs.
On the 15th we were about five miles from our night's quarters to the mouth of the Nishnebottoneh,
which we reached at eight o'clock. In the fine forest at this spot our hunters shot only
one rabbit, and wounded a deer, which we did not obtain. At noon we lay-to on the right bank,
Gardner having promised to look for some wild honey. I may remark by the way, that though the
bee was not known in America till it was introduced by the Europeans, it is now spread over the
whole continent. The Indians are said to call it "the white man's fly." It is now common far
up the Missouri, where the honey is eagerly sought for by both Whites and Indians, who cut it
out of the hollow trunks of the trees. The spot where we rested and prepared our dinner was
below the beautiful verdant wooded hills, and was shaded by high trees, inhabited by the most
brilliant birds, which afforded much sport to our hunters. Along the bank and distant hills
extended a splendid forest, through which winded a solitary Indian path, where the grey squirrels
were very numerous. We found much recreation in this solitary wilderness, but here, too, the
caterpillars annoyed us greatly; they were of a bluish-green colour, with a double row of green
and yellow spots. We afterwards passed the Grand Nemawha, and lay-to, for the night, opposite
Solomon's Island, six miles above Wolf River.
On the 16th of May the river was covered with a thick fog, which prevented our proceeding
on our voyage as early as usual. At half-past seven o'clock we were opposite the mouth of Wolf
River, where we saw a herd of six or seven deer, and lay-to at nine o'clock on the right bank.
The lofty forest here had a thick undergrowth of box-alder and cornus, which was completely
covered with caterpillars and their webs. At noon we reached Nadaway River, and were charmed
with the prospect of the sublime forest scenery of the banks, and the picturesque islands in this
river. Luxuriant woods appeared on every side, covered to the summits of their highest branches
with graceful light green climbing plants, so that the trunks looked like verdant columns. Their
foliage was shining and juicy, like the whole of the luxuriant vegetation that surrounded them.
Even from our boat we could see, in the dark forest, the scarlet plumage of the beautiful red
tangara, which the French on the Mississippi call the pope, the splendid cardinal, and the bright
red baltimore. The meridian sun shed a glorious effulgence over this magnificent scene; where,
Most of the trees of these forests on the Lower Missouri have not the beautiful large flowers
common to those of Brazil, but, with a few exceptions, have only catkins. For the first time after
a long interval we saw the kingfisher on the bank. Towards four o'clock in the afternoon we
reached the beautiful chain of the Black Snake Hills, and, not long after, Roubedoux's trading
house in the neighbourhood of the Joways and Saukies, or Sacs. The forest-covered hills, as
well as the prairie stretched at their foot, were now adorned with the most lovely verdure. The
two houses at this spot were painted white, which, when seen from the river, gave them a very
picturesque appearance amid the surrounding green. Behind the dwelling houses were extensive
fields of maize, protected by fences, and very fine cattle were grazing in the plain. Mr.
Roubedoux, the owner of the house, and his son, were from home, and some ignorant engagés
could not comply with my desire to obtain fresh provisions, and to pay a visit to the Indians in
the vicinity, to accomplish which I requested them to provide me with horses. About thirty Oto
and Missouri Indians had been here a couple of days, and had just gone to the neighbouring
Indians to purchase brandy. About six miles from hence lies a village of the Joway Indians,
and at about the same distance down the Missouri, one of the Saukies. These Indians are able
to obtain as much brandy as they please at the extreme settlements of the Americans, about
fifteen miles from this place, who, at their own risk, pass the limit of the Indian country, fixed by
the government in the latitude of the Cantonment of Leavenworth. This great facility of procuring
cheap and bad spirits is extremely ruinous to the Indians, and accelerates the destruction
of their race. We were dissuaded from visiting these two Indian tribes, because they had, for
several days, been indulging in the immoderate use of whisky, and were in a dangerous state of
excitement. A great number of Oto Indians gradually assembled near Roubedoux's house: many
of them were quite intoxicated, and nearly all had four or five casks of this fatal draught fastened
to their horses.
The Oto, Missouri, and Joway Indians, at least the young people, had their hair shorn in the
manner of the Saukies and Foxes: several, however, especially the elder men, wore their hair
short in the neck. I saw one of the Missouris with his hair hanging half-way down his back.
Their dress and customs are said not to differ from the Saukies. They had holes in their ears,
in which they wore bunches of wampum: some young men had red cloth tied round their heads,
and one of them wore a cap made of the entire skin of a bear's head, with the ears, which gave
him a very grotesque appearance. All these Indians were weaker, and of lower stature, than
those of the Upper Missouri, especially the Manitaries, Mandans, and Crows. The Otos and
Missouris intended to go to-day with their stock of whisky to their villages on the other side of
the river, and wished us to set them over, to which, however, I was not disposed to accede. Mr.
Bodmer took the portrait of an athletic Missouri youth. This tribe was formerly numerous and
the few that remain have intermingled with the Otos.
We made some little excursions in the neighbourhood, and found in the prairie and the
lofty trees many beautiful plants and fine birds; the day was hot, and the evening remarkably
pleasant; a numerous company of Indians, who were not a little troublesome, visited us in our
boat, and stopped till ten o'clock. We left our night's quarters early on the following day, the 17th,
and proceeded down the river, the banks of which were clothed with tall forests. The thermometer
at noon was at 75°, but the wind was high, and compelled us to lay-to; we therefore
took advantage of the delay to go ashore, and make some addition to our collection of plants and
birds. About four in the afternoon, though the wind was still high, we were enabled to pursue
our course. We were not long in making Cow Island, about nine miles from Leavenworth,
where a good deal of cattle belonging to the military post were grazing. A little before
sunset we came to the isolated dwelling of a white man, and saw several Indians, there being
a settlement of the Kickapoos, who were removed from the eastern provinces, at a short distance
from the river. We lay-to for the night on the right bank, and several of my people went on
before us to Leavenworth. On the 18th, during a heavy rain, we made the three miles to the
post; we heard some musket-shot, a signal that the guard was relieved, and soon reached
the landing-place of the Cantonment. The sentinel informed us that we must immediately
appear before the commanding officer, and compelled us, in an imperious manner, to keep close
and march before him. We arrived like prisoners at the house of the commander, where Major
Ryley received us with tolerable politeness, and supplied me with the provisions, meat, bread,
&c., which I required, taking care, however, to be well paid for them.
The Cantonment of Leavenworth is pleasantly situated; ten or twelve neat and spacious
buildings, surrounded with a gallery or verandah, are occupied by two companies of the 6th
regiment, not more than eighty men, with ten officers, who were detached from Jefferson
Barracks, near St. Louis. Dr. Fellowes, the military physician, who in the preceding year travelled
with us to this place, received me with much cordiality, and gave me a good deal of informa- tion respecting this interesting country. He had been very successful with his cholera patients,
for, out of a great number, one only had died, because he always attacked the disorder at its
very commencement.
The heavy rain had converted the surrounding country into a swamp, so that we could not
conveniently visit the environs of the Cantonment. The soil is very fruitful, and the whole
country clothed in rich verdure. About four miles from this place, down the river, the Indian
line meets the Missouri at right angles; this is the frontier of the Indian territory, which the
Cantonment is destined to protect. Near this post is the village of the Kickapoos, inhabited by a
poor and rather degenerated race. Major Morgan, who kept a large store of provisions and other
To celebrate his happy return the people drank rather too freely, and were endeavouring to
make Descoteaux do the same, in order to induce him to sell his beaver skins below their value,
but I would not suffer this, and took him with me. The people here have a sufficient number of
cattle and swine, as well as plenty of milk, butter, and cheese. My collections were here enriched
with many interesting specimens. Dr. Fellowes had the kindness to give me a goffer (a large
field-mouse), undoubtedly Diplostoma bulbivorum. Unfortunately the specimen was not complete.
| CHAPTER XXX. Travels in the interior of North America. | |