University of Virginia Library

CHAPTER IX.

JOURNEY FROM NEW HARMONY TO ST. LOUIS ON THE MISSISSIPPI, AND OUR STAY THERE, FROM
MARCH 16TH TO APRIL 9TH, 1833.

After taking leave of our friends at Harmony, who, during a residence of four months, had
given us unvarying proofs of kindness and hospitality, we set out on horseback early in the morning
of the 16th of March, leaving our baggage to be conveyed by the Ohio. The day was fine, and,
rejoicing in the warm spring sun, we reached the hills that bounded the valley of the Wabash.
We were immediately surrounded by lofty forests, and cast a farewell look on the cheerful country
which had so long sheltered us. Perched on the top of the maple, oak, and tulip tree, the robin
poured forth his morning song. The turtle-dove was cooing with her sweet low moan, and the
shrill voice and hammering of the woodpeckers resounded on every side. In Europe the soft note
of the turtle is not heard till spring is more advanced, and the trees are clothed with verdure. Many
trees were covered with buds; those of the dog-wood were particularly forward, the beautiful
white flowers of which appear before the leaves; this is the case with many of the trees of this
country. We passed Rush Creek, on the eminences near which grow many sugar-maple trees,
the juice of which was tapped, and had in some of them already ceased to flow. At the
lower part of all the trunks, we found small tubes of elder inserted, from which the insipid sweetish
juice ran into the troughs placed below them. It is said to flow in great abundance, when hot
spring days are succeeded by cold frosty nights. We soon reached what is called a sugar camp
in the forest; it is a hut, in the floor of which four kettles are fixed for boiling the juice. This

hut contains likewise large troughs, in which the juice from the smaller, placed at the trees, is
collected. Such a hut, with the maples growing around it, is called a sugar camp, and the
quantity of sugar produced depends on the number of maples in the vicinity. Many camps
furnish in one spring 300, 500, or even 1000 lbs. of sugar, which is crystalized in loaves. It is
brown, but very sweet, and has no disagreeable flavour. We refreshed ourselves with the juice
in the small troughs, which our horses drank greedily.

The people in the isolated dwellings in the forest were partly engaged in burning the timber.
Many of the small wooden houses of these peasants were without windows; glass windows are
quite a luxury, and the only light enjoyed in the daytime is admitted by the open door. We saw
in all these dwellings, very wide, large beds. We crossed the Big Creek, a considerable stream,
with rising banks, by a wooden bridge; here we saw many piles of oak bark, which is sold to the
tanneries. At noon, the weather being excessively hot, we reached Mount Vernon, on the
Ohio.

In this little scattered place, with about 600 inhabitants, among whom there are five
medical men, about one third of the buildings are of brick; the town-hall stands in an open
square. The Ohio, which we immediately visited, had now a much more striking appearance
than at our first visit in the autumn. It is considerably broader than the Rhine, and it is said that
it often rises thirty feet higher—up to the very thresholds of the buildings standing on the bank.
The view both up and down the river was beautiful. The immediate environs of Mount Vernon
consist of damp marshy forests; hence the water is very bad, and the inhabitants prefer even
that of the Ohio. The temperature at noon was now very warm; 14° Reaumur.

We were obliged to wait a couple of days in this little town for a steam-boat, to go down the
river. The rushing noise of the steamers often called us to the river, but they were mostly going
up, and disappeared at Diamond Island. At last, on the 18th of March, about ten in the morning,
two steam-boats appeared, of which the largest, the Napoleon, did not stop; while the smaller
one, the Conveyance, took us in. We proceeded rapidly, reached before noon Wabash Island,
near the mouth of that river, and after dinner landed at Shawneetown.

Shawneetown or Shawaneetown is a hamlet lying along the banks of the river, and containing
from 600 to 700 inhabitants. The best buildings are some inns, shops, and the post-office. The
tribe of the Shawnee Indians formerly dwelt in this country, and were succeeded by some Delawares,
who have been long since expelled or extirpated. Arrow-heads of flint, as well as the
bones, &c., of these people, are frequently found in the neighbourhood. The Shawnees were
said to have previously dwelt on the Savaney River, on the coast of Florida, and afterwards lived
for about sixty-five years in the state of Ohio. They consisted, according to Dr. Morse, of four
tribes:—1. The Piqua; 2. The Maguachake; 3. The Kiskopokoke, to which the celebrated prophet,
Elsquataway, and his distinguished brother, Tecumseh, belonged. They were very warlike. In

1806 they settled near Greenville, in the State of Ohio, and their subsequent history is well known.
They afterwards went to the country about Tippecanoe. 4. The Chillicothes, who live in the
vicinity of the town of that name; these, and further accounts of these people, are to be found in
Dr. Morse, and other writers.

Twelve miles inland from Shawneetown are the celebrated salt works on Saline River, near
Equality; much salt is annually manufactured there, and sent to Shawneetown, on the Ohio,
where it is embarked. Here, as at Mount Vernon, the environs of the place consist of damp
forests, with many marshes, from which noxious exhalations arise. The weather was chilly,
windy, and rainy, especially towards evening, so that a fire was very welcome. Coals are found
about seven miles from the town, and seem to be of a good kind. There were many negroes in
Shawneetown; whereas, in Harmony and Mount Vernon, there were only two or three families
of that race.

On the morning of the 19th, the weather being warm, and the sky clouded, we embarked in
the Paragon steam-boat. The fine broad river shone brightly; on the banks the summits of the
forest formed an even line parallel to the shore, as even as if they had been cut, the snow-white
stems of the planes glistening among the sombre mass. The kingfisher, the wild duck, and red-breasted
goose, were numerous in the wild, romantic willow islands. The banks of the Ohio now
began to be higher; the rocks are of limestone, which forms, in many parts of the forests, romantic
masses of rock, partly yellow, partly of a grey colour. The river was at this time nearly of the
same colour as the Rhine, when clear. After passing the mouth of the Saline River, we reached, on
the right, or Illinois bank, the long flat bank of rocks known by the name of Battery Rock.
This wall of rock, at the lower part of the bank, is marked with horizontal strata, or stripes, from
sixty to eighty feet high, covered with whitish or bluish green and bright green lichens and
mosses, rent by several ravines, and crowned with woods, and a small house or cottage on the
very summit. From this place we saw, on the rocky banks, some red cedars here and there, from
twenty to thirty feet in height. I observe, for the botanist, that this tree is not found except
where the bank consists of rocks. After passing Cave-in-Rock Island, a long, wooded island, we
glided past Cave-in-Rock (Vig. VII.), a cavern which traverses from side to side a steep rock in
Illinois, and has been drawn by Lesueur. The rocky wall, in which this well-known opening is
situated, is marked with regular, narrow, yellowish grey or reddish strata of limestone, and is
crowned with cedars and other trees. It is twenty-five miles below Shawneetown. Calcareous
petrifactions, or rather impressions, are very numerous. Above the larger mouth of the cavern,
towards the Ohio, is a smaller chamber, which is said to have formerly been the retreat of banditti
and coiners. The rock is hard limestone, with sea shells and animal remains scattered in it,
but no fossil bones have ever been found there.

Towards noon we reached Golconda Island, twenty and a half miles from Cave-in-Rock,

and then Golconda in Illinois, a small town, with a few white buildings, in which they were erecting
a court-house, and which is the seat of the tribunals of Pope County. Near Sister Islands we
met the Brunswick steamer, which had in tow two large flat boats, full of horses, which were being
conveyed from Mount Vernon to New Orleans. The owners of the horses have to pay above 500
dollars for the voyage. Opposite Cumberland Island is the mouth of the Cumberland River,
which comes from Kentucky, and falls into the Ohio, at an acute angle. This river is not so large as
the Wabash. A small village, called Smithland, is built at the mouth, which reminded me of a
little Brazilian villa, the houses, mostly one story high, lying in a row by the water-side.

At this place the Paragon took in wood and provisions. Not far from Smithland is the
mouth of the Tenessee River, which is said to be more considerable than the Cumberland, and to
have a course of 1,200 miles. The little village, Paduca, on the left bank of the Ohio, appeared
to have much traffic, and a number of new shops had been built. The Western Pilot of the year
1829 does not mention this place—a proof of its recent origin. From hence we came to the
spot where Fort Massac formerly stood, stones of which are still found. We lay to some hundred
paces below to take in wood, of which our vessel consumed twelve cords daily. The grass
on the banks was already of a bright green colour, and a race of large long-legged sheep were
grazing on it. We lay to for the night.

Early in the morning of the 20th of March we approached the mouth of the Ohio, where it
falls into the Mississippi, 959 miles from Pittsburg, and 129 ¾ miles from St. Louis. The tongue
of land on the right, which separates the two rivers, was, like the whole of the country, covered
with rich woods, which were partly cleared, and a few houses erected, with an inn and store, and
the dwelling of a planter, where we took in wood. In this store we saw, among heaps of skins, that
of a black bear, lately killed, of which one of the three cubs, a very comical little beast, had been
kept alive. This young bear had on his breast a semicircle of white hair. The settlement, at
which we now were, has no other name than Mouth of the Ohio. We now entered the Mississippi,
and ascended it, keeping to the left or eastern bank. This river is not broader here than
the Ohio, and the water of both was of the same colour; the bank was steep, covered with
broken stems of trees, and crowned on the summit with high slender poplars. The lower banks
were clothed with lofty trees, and at their feet strips of poplar and willows bending over the
water. On the right hand, in particular, were romantic forest scenes; a wilderness of fallen
trees, which the floods and storms had thrown and piled upon each other, like an abatis.
Parasite plants wound round the trees, and matted them together; while, further on, rose the
picturesque terraces of the wood-covered bank. There being many snags (trunks lying in the
water) in the river, we could only proceed by daylight. The islands, covered with high poplars,
were generally bordered with thickets of willow, which had now no appearance whatever of green,
but looked of a bright yellowish red, from the colour of their branches. Gleams of sunshine

sometimes cast over these willow thickets a fine red glow, and gave them a very original appearance.
Large quantities of drifted wood were frequently seen on the points of the islands towards
the current. The water being very low, we were obliged to take soundings, and yet our vessel
proceeded five or eight hours against the stream. The O'Connell steam-boat had run aground in
this place, and its people were employed in landing the cargo, consisting chiefly of lead. In many
places on the bank, slender poplars form thick groves, whose tall stems spread into branches at
the summit. They are all of an equal height, and are one of the characteristic features in the landscape
scenery of the Mississippi and Missouri. At twelve at noon, Reaumur's thermometer was
at + 14½°, with a high wind, which blew the sand of the sand banks into the air. We lay to, to
take in fuel, which cost three dollars for two cords. Here was a high, steep, sandy bank, and a
small, very wretched planter's log-house, exposed on all parts to the wind, the sides of which
consisted only of boards set upright. A couple of bad beds took up almost the whole of the
interior. The woman, with her pipe in her mouth, was occupied at the miserable fire-place;
the man was just returned, with a boy, from the forest; the two other children looked unhealthy,
weak and pale; one of these girls was employed in planting onions in a small patch
of newly-prepared ground. A couple of oxen, five or six young hogs, and some Muscovy ducks,
were feeding about the cottage. Immediately behind, and close to it, commenced the magnificent,
dense, and lofty forest, which we resolved at once to explore, and there very sensibly felt the heat
of the spring, because the wind could not penetrate. The underwood of the forest consisted of
the spicewood (Laurus benzoin), which grows to the height of ten and fifteen feet; its bark is
highly aromatic, and it was covered with small yellow blossoms, which appear before the leaves,
and resemble those of our cornelian cherry. The abundance of these flowers gives to the underwood
a lively tint, which strikes the eye at a distance. Large, lofty trees, overgrown with climbing
plants, formed the forest on the Mississippi, and the ground was covered with a delicate yellow
flowering plant (Corydalis flava, N.) In the front of the cottage, which was close to the bank,
stood a tree, about which a beautiful Bignonia radicans entwined; and the turkey buzzards hovered
high in the air above the forest.

As we proceeded on our voyage, the wind was so high, and it raised the waves and the
sand so excessively, that we sought the protection of the opposite bank. We passed many
islands, several of which give a great insight into the formation of the banks of the Mississippi.
One of them, especially, showed, at a certain place, a bank which had sunk down, where we perceived
layers of large trunks of trees, heaped one upon another, the tops of which were visible.
On such foundations the river throws its sand, willows and poplars grow up, by the leaves of
which good earth is formed, and, in the end, lofty forests of hard wood arise. Though the
Paragon drew only five feet water, we were often aground; the wind laid the vessel a little on
the side, the crew shoved with poles, sounded, stopped the engine, then made the vessel go backwards

and then sidewards, and so got afloat again. Little villages were seldom seen on this part
of the banks of the Mississippi; however, we came to the village of Commerce, on a rocky hill, and
it is here that rows of hills of a very interesting appearance commence on the left or Missouri
bank. Fragments of rock lie about, and the cedar (Juniperus Virginiana) immediately appears
again. The forest seems to decrease in height in these calcareous rocks, especially the planes,
which are more colossal in Indiana; and on the eminences in the forests, isolated groups of rocks
are often seen, frequently of singular forms, like pulpits. Night setting in, we retired to our cabin
to avoid the cold evening air, and lay to under cover of the bank. At this spot there was a single
planter's dwelling upon the steep bank, which was fifty or sixty feet high. A large fire was kindled
at the top, which brilliantly illuminated the high trunks of the forest, and warmed our crew by its
intense heat. In the cleanly cottage of the peasant, which was well closed on all sides, we conversed
with his wife, who told us that their house had been burnt down a short time before, and
rebuilt; she said also that wild animals abound in this part of the country; stags especially are
numerous, but bears are rarely met with.

On the 21st of March we reached Cape Girardeau, an ancient French settlement, now a large
scattered village, which, as we were told, had of late much improved. Beds of limestone appeared
on the bank, and heaps of it were piled up; it contains many shells. After passing Devil's Island,
we found in the river a sunk steam-boat, which was now quite broken up; many of these vessels
passed us. The spicewood was everywhere in flower in the forests on the bank, and it is said
that its appearance indicates a fine soil. The pretty narrow-leaved willow, on the contrary, was
still covered with its last year's dry leaves. We passed by the villages of Bainbridge and Harrisburg,
and then came to that part of the river which is called Hanging-Dog-Bend, where the
Mississippi is wide and beautiful. Various strata and ravines are observed in the wooded calcareous
mountains; such a stratified rock, cleft perpendicularly, has the name of the Devil's Tea-table;
other rocks resembled round towers standing close to each other, all crowned with wood, where
the turkey buzzard resorted. The opposite or Illinois bank has very seldom any such rocks, and
it is more cultivated close to the river. Flocks of ducks, probably Anas rufitorques, were swimming
on the water. The calcareous rocks, grey, bright yellow, bright blue, or yellowish red, were frequently
very singularly formed, especially a little further up, the interesting Grand Tower, an
isolated, cylindrical rock, from sixty to eighty feet in height, which we reached when it was splendidly
illumined by the setting sun. (Vig. IX.) To the right, on the Illinois bank, opposite the Tower
Rock, at the point or corner of the mountain projecting towards the Mississippi, three or four
very strangely formed rocks are standing, full of clefts and ravines, the foremost of which is called
the Devil's Bake-oven, and is covered at the summit with pines. The Grand Tower[1] stands

quite isolated on the left bank; and its summit is crowned with red cedars. Behind it there is
another large rock, split into several perpendicular divisions, like towers, and the whole group
forms, as it were, a most original portico. Some habitations were picturesquely situated against
these rocks. A little above that narrow rocky portico of the river, the Obrazo Creek, in
the State of Missouri, appears, where we took in fuel. The ravine of the stream was covered with
fine tall timber, to which the kingfisher resorted. A couple of cottages were inhabited by negroes,
and in front of them lay a piece of fertile land, where rows of cotton trees were planted. The high
old elms were now in flower by the side of the stream, and the large red cedars, around the
dwellings, were still partly laden with their black berries. The Mnium ciliare (Grev.; Bryum) was
abundant in this neighbourhood. Above Hat Island, we lay to for the night on the Missouri bank.

The morning of the 22nd of March was serene; the sight of the rising sun from the poop of
the vessel was truly magnificent; as the flaming disk of the king of day rose above the woody
banks of the Mississippi, the waves formed by the rapid course of the vessel glowed with the most
resplendent colours; the wild geese and ducks, frightened by our Paragon, hastened away with
rustling wings; the kingfisher was frequent on the shrubs. Near St. Mary River we ran aground,
but were not long delayed by this accident. The cords of wood for the steam-boat were lying
ready piled up on the bank, stating the price and the quantity. The village of Chester, in Illinois,
where we took in wood, was quite a new settlement, consisting at present of but a few houses.
Among the limestone and wood on the bank, we shot a beautiful lizard (Agama undulata, Daud.),
which is said to attain a considerable size, especially on the river St. Peter. The buds of
the red oak were very forward. At noon the weather was excessively warm, and on the river the
thermometer was + 11½° Reaumur. We saw the mouth of the Kaskaskia River, on the Illinois
bank, six miles up which Kaskaskia is situated, one of the oldest French settlements on the
Mississippi. The tribe of Kaskaskian Indians dwelt in these parts, and some remains of them still
live near the settlement. We were told that there was at present only one man among them of
the pure race. A wooded chain of hills runs along the Kaskaskia, in which large columns of smoke
were rising, doubtless occasioned by the woods being on fire. Numbers of tortoises were basking
at noon on the trunks of trees and stones in the river. They have hard shells, and most of
them are not large; though we often shot at them, we did not succeed in getting a single one.
Wild geese were walking upon the sand-banks; we fired at them; the first shot did not in the
smallest degree discompose them; at the second, when the ball whizzed close by them, they flew
away, but only to a short distance. At St. Geneviève Island, the river divides, and we steered to
the west of the island. It is covered with lofty trees; the banks are abruptly broken; large trunks

of trees were lying in the water. Before us we saw St. Geneviève, where columns of smoke
ascended in the distance; on the island was a small settlement, with a hut, worse than that of an
Indian, and near, the canoe, turned bottom upwards. The inhabitants were sunburnt, badly
clothed, of a savage aspect, like the Indians. A tall forest surrounded this characteristic scene.
The Mississippi is here very broad, and is certainly a very noble stream. The prospect up the
river is highly picturesque. Gentle eminences bound the horizon, and on account of a bend which
the river makes to the right, it appears to come through a narrow opening. St. Geneviève, an
old French settlement, now a large village, with 600 or 800 inhabitants, is about twenty minutes'
walk from the landing-place, and appears to be in a state of decline; it was founded at the same
time as Kaskaskia. The streets are at right angles, unpaved, and bordered with hedges. The
houses, which are of one story, are separate from each other, and have, in general, a verandah in
front. The church is built of red brick. French and English are spoken, and there are several
German inhabitants. Caravans go every spring from hence to the interior of the western prairies,
to Santa Fé and the Rocky Mountains; they consist of many armed men, with their horses and
wagons. The well-known lead mines are further up the country. Limestone everywhere stands
out: the water is very bad, and not fit for drinking.

On the morning of the 23rd of March, the sun shining very brightly, strange forms of rock,
alternating with high forests, appeared on the banks of the river; on the left, or western bank
especially, the walls of rock were cleft by rude valleys, from which a small stream generally issued.
Single pines are scattered in the woods; on the right bank, on the skirts of the forest, is a row of
poplars, of perfectly equal height, but the planes are not so high as those we have before seen.
We passed the place where Fort Chârtres formerly stood. The limestone rocks in these parts
assume the most highly original shapes and formations, about which much might be said if our
limits would permit. They have often natural caverns and excavations, like the niches cut for
the images of saints, which we see in Europe, as the subjoined cut shows. Others have regular

projecting ledges and lofty cones; sometimes they are so rounded as to represent a row of perpendicular
towers, &c. On many of the rocks shot towers have been erected, the whole country,
as is well known, abounding in lead.

We passed by the settlement of Selma, and the village of Herculaneum; the latter consisting
of about thirty houses, the immediate vicinity of which is remarkable for a perforated limestone
rock. The distance from hence to Geneviève is twenty-one miles, and to St. Louis, thirty. After
passing round the point of Little Rock, which is about forty feet high—beyond which the small
Platteen Creek falls into the river—we soon reached the mouth of the Merrimack River, where we
saw large flocks of ducks and sea-gulls. About Robert's Island the country becomes flat and uninteresting.
Towards evening we reached Jefferson barracks, on the left bank, where the 6th
regiment of regular infantry was in garrison, and the flag of the United States was hoisted.
These barracks were interesting at this time, because the celebrated Indian chief, Black Hawk,
was imprisoned in them. Before night, we passed the French settlement of Vide-Poche, or
Carondelet, founded about 100 years ago, a large scattered village, the inhabitants of which are
reported to be not very industrious. The neighbouring hills are covered with low oak bushes.
We passed the night nearly opposite Kahokia, and on the morning of the 24th of March, to our
great joy, beheld the town of St. Louis. Its first appearance is not prepossessing, as it has no
high steeples. The mass of houses, however, unfolds itself as you approach; the environs are
low and monotonous. We landed about nine o'clock in the morning, in a cold high wind. The
people whom we first saw were mostly negroes, or labourers.

St. Louis is a rapidly increasing town, with 6,000 or 8,000 inhabitants, on the western bank
of the Mississippi, about 1,200 miles from New Orleans, and 1,134 miles from Pittsburg. It is
built on a rather bare, gently rising, and not very elevated part of the banks; forms two streets
parallel to the river, besides many houses lying on the summit in the prairie, where building seemed
to be proceeding rapidly. On this upper part there are churches and other considerable buildings,
of which the town has many of different kinds; and the highly-favourable situation, in the centre,
of the trade of the Mississippi, Ohio, and Missouri, will soon make it one of the most important
places in the west. St. Louis was originally founded by the French; at first there was only a
fort, and it was not till 1764 that the building of the town commenced, which in 1816 contained
about 2,000 inhabitants. Persons were still living—for instance, M. Chouteau—who had the
wood felled on the spot where the buildings of the town now stand. The principal streets are
full of handsome shops; numerous steam-boats come and go, daily, to and from New Orleans,
Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, Prairie du Chien, &c.; and a very brisk trade employs the motley
population of many nations. Most of the merchants have their warehouses, which are mostly
built of solid stone, on the bank of the Mississippi. The greater part of the workmen in the
port, and all the servants in St. Louis, are negroes and their descendants, who, as in the State

of Missouri, are all slaves. They are very numerous here; and though modern travellers represent
in very favourable colours the situation of this oppressed race, the negro slaves are no better
off here than in other countries. Everywhere they are a demoralized race, little to be depended
upon; and the manner in which they are treated is generally not so good as has been represented.
We were witnesses of deplorable punishments of these people. One of our neighbours
at St. Louis, for instance, flogged one of his slaves in the public streets, with untiring arm.
Sometimes he stopped a moment to rest, and then began anew.

St. Louis was the more interesting to us, at this moment, because we had, here, the first
opportunity of becoming acquainted with the North American Indians in all their originality; for
the office for all the Indian affairs of the west is at St. Louis, under the direction of General
Clarke, celebrated for his journey with Captain Lewis to the Rocky Mountains and Columbia
River, who has the title of superintendent of Indian affairs. He manages all these matters; and all
strangers who wish to visit the interior of the western territory are obliged to have a passport
from him, and all Indian agents and sub-agents are under him. It happened that, during our stay
at St. Louis, a deputation came down the Mississippi from two Indian tribes, the Saukies (Sacs) and
the Foxes or Ootagamis, to intercede for the Black Hawk, who was a prisoner in Jefferson barracks.
A Saukie chief, named Kiokuck, was at the head of this numerous deputation, and he was the
very same person who had delivered the unfortunate Black Hawk into the hands of the
Americans. General Clarke, to whom I was introduced by the kindness of Duke Bernhard of
Saxe Weimar, had very obligingly informed me of the meetings or councils which he held with
the Indians, and we had the pleasure of being able thoroughly to observe and study these remarkable
people. Quarters were assigned them in a large magazine near the harbour, to which
we immediately repaired. We saw already on the beach a collection of the populace, and amidst
the crowd of curious spectators, distinguished the strange dark brown figures, enveloped in red,
white, or green blankets. We did not come up to them till they were in the house, and the first
sight of them, which did not a little surprise me, convinced me at once of their great affinity to
the Brazilians, so that I cannot hesitate to consider them as belonging to the same race.[2] They
are stout, well formed men, many of them above the middle size, broad shouldered, muscular and
brawny. The features of the men are expressive, and strongly marked; the cheek bones prominent,
the lower jaw broad and angular; the dark brown eyes animated and fiery, and especially in
youth, the inner corner rather drawn down, but not so much so as in the Brazilians. The outer
corner of the eye is not elevated either in the North or South Americans, at least I have seen it

in very few instances. The forehead appears to me not to recede so much in the North
Americans as has been generally assumed, which is also the case with the Brazilians. Meyen[3]
confirms this with respect to the people west of the Cordilleras. The teeth are strong, firm, and
white, and generally perfectly sound, even at an advanced age. The nose is large and prominent,
often much arched, but not always, a trait which occurs much more rarely among the Brazilians.[4]
The lips are usually rather thick; the hair straight, smooth, and black, as in all the Americans.
The colour of the skin a darker or lighter brown, often deeper than in the Brazilians, but, on the
whole, perfectly the same. Some of these Indians resemble the Chinese, which Bossu, too,
affirms of the now extirpated race of the Natchez. The features of others strongly reminded me
of the Botocudos.

It may be observed here, with Von Humboldt and Meyen, that, notwithstanding a certain
general affinity and resemblance of the race, there are, however, very great diversities among the
people of American descent. Thus, for instance, the large aquiline nose of several northern
nations may be mentioned, which must have been very remarkable among the ancient tribes of
Mexico, as is proved by the old monuments of that, historically, most interesting country.
Though this similarity appears to indicate an affinity of the Mexicans with more northern nations,
a similar conformation was found here and there in South America also; as Duperrey represents
the Peruvians, and as Dr. Meyen also states. I am, however, of opinion that the notion of
the last-named learned travellers is untenable, viz., that on account of the different[5] form of their
skulls, the Puris and the Botocudos, who live so near to each other, are distinct races. I have compared
numbers of Mandan skulls with each other, which were all genuine, and found great diversity
in them, especially with respect to the receding of the forehead and the flattening of the head. In the
same manner the brown colour of the American is of different shades. Mr. Von Humboldt found
the Mexicans darker than many South Americans;[6] and many of the North American nations
which I have seen, were likewise of a darker complexion than many Brazilians. My observations
with respect to this point coincide so perfectly with the views of that distinguished
traveller, that I might copy the passages in his works which treat of the Americans, and confirm
them by many additional proofs. Among the Botocudos I met with individuals who were nearly
white; Volney was certainly deceived by Michichinakua (the little tortoise), who wanted to raise
himself to the dignity of a white man, for the North Americans are not of a lighter colour on

those parts of their bodies which are clothed, than on those which are exposed to the air and sun.
Pike, and some other travellers, pretend to have found the Mongol physiognomy among the
North American Indians, especially the Pawnees and the Sioux; but I can affirm that I met
with no such physiognomy, though I saw a few instances of it in Brazil. Mr. Von Humboldt
very justly observes, on this head, that not merely the bodily conformation, but likewise the
mode of living, of the two races, are entirely different. The great contrast between the American
and Mongol races is immediately apparent, when we consider that the former have no breed of
cattle, and do not subsist on milk, without which the latter cannot live.[7] The Tartar features,
which are very handsome, did not occur to me in North America. Warden, in his work on
American antiquities,[8] gives a drawing of a vessel found near the river Cany, which is adorned
with three human heads. These heads have not the Tartar physiognomy, as the author believes,
but precisely that of the North American Indians.

From this digression on the general conformation of the North Americans, we return to our
narrative.

The Saukies and Foxes had shaved their hair off the whole head except a small tuft behind,
the greater part of which was cut short, like a brush, and which terminated in a thin braid, to
which was fastened the chief ornament of the head, the deer's tail, which is a tuft of hair
from the tail of the Virginian stag, white, with some black hair, the white part being dyed red
with vermilion.[9] It is fastened in an ingenious manner, with some strings and pegs of wood, to
the tuft of hair at the back of the head; and in the middle of it, concealed between the hair, is a
small piece of carved wood, to which a small bone box is affixed, into which a large eagle's feather
is fastened, projecting horizontally behind; this feather is often dyed with vermilion, and is the
characteristic distinction of a brave warrior. He who has become renowned for horse-stealing,
which, according to their notions, is a heroic exploit, fastens to the tip of this feather the rattle of
a rattlesnake. The whole deer's tail, when it is not worn, is rolled up in the form of a thick ball,
fastened with leather straps, and kept in this manner, that the hair may remain smooth, and in the
proper position. Mr. Bodmer took an admirable likeness of Watapinat (eagle's nest), a handsome
Fox Indian, wearing this head-dress. (Plate III.) The North Americans pluck out their eyebrows,
beard, &c., like the Brazilians, and, at present, employ in this operation a spiral wire, between the
windings of which they take hold of the hair. These nations adorn their ears in a very original
manner; three large holes, one above the other, are made at the outer rim, in which short strings
of blue and white wampum shells[10] are hung, like tassels. Some of the men had even cut through

the whole outer rim, which remained attached only above and below, and was adorned with
strings of wampum and metal rings; similar strings, and pieces of blue and white shells, are worn
in many rows around the neck.

The women are small and thickset; most of them have large round heads, and broad, flat,
round faces. They let their hair grow naturally, part it on the forehead, and tie it together, at
the back of the head, in a short, thick bunch, which is bound round with red and green ribbon.
A few old men had not shaved their heads; but in winter it is said that these Indians let their
hair grow, to protect them against the cold. Both sexes had their faces more or less painted red:
the Saukies mostly red, in different designs; the Foxes, red and yellow, or red, white, and black.
The manner of painting depends on the taste of the individual; nearly all of them had red circles
round the eyes and ears, and red stripes down the cheeks, the rest of the face being left of the
natural colour. They use, for this purpose, vermilion, which they obtain from the merchants.
The Fox Indians had often the whole head painted red; a yellow or white stripe on the forehead,
and the mouth and chin with the figure of a yellow hand, or else quite black. A tall, handsome
Saukie Indian, called Massica (the tortoise), had a bold, fierce countenance, and an aquiline nose;
his cordiality was very striking; his brown eyes sparkled, and his white teeth looked quite dazzling,
contrasted with the dark brown face, which had a good deal of red paint on it. On his forehead
he wore a band of otter skin, which was fastened behind the head, and then fell down in two long
stripes to the ground. He had attached a black and white eagle's feather to his deer's tail, and was
covered with a large red blanket. Mr. Bodmer has given a very good likeness of this handsome
man in Plate III., but without his head-dress, in order to show the manner in which the tuft of hair
was cut. Many of these people wore coloured calico shirts, and all used the Indian leather leggins,
which come down to the shoes, and are ornamented at the ankles with leather fringes. They are
fastened, with leather straps, above the girdle. They also wear a piece of woollen cloth, generally
striped blue and white, round the waist, which is fastened under the girdle. The girdle and knee
bands were often very elegantly adorned with glass beads, and in the former is a sheath, similarly
ornamented, for a large, broad, and very sharp knife, which they obtain, by barter, from the merchants,
and employ for various purposes, especially for cutting up game, and scalping their enemies.
The shoes, generally called mocassins, are made of soft, tanned buckskin, and the upper edge
turned down below the ankle. These people wear them very plain, without any ornament.
Many of them had fastened swan skins, with the down, or that of polecats, much marked with
white, below their knees, the long hairy tail of which hung down to the ground, or to the ankle.
Most of them had no other covering, on the upper part of the body, under their blankets; and

many wore brass necklaces and bracelets. The men, who were between thirty and forty in
number, never appeared without their arms; they carried tomahawks,[11] or else the common Indian
club,[12] which has, at the upper end, a steel plate, sharp on both edges, and pointed. See Plate
XLVIII., fig. 4. We did not see any bows and arrows among these Indians, because they had
not come out on a warlike expedition, but on a festal visit; many of them had a kind of lance,
made of a long sword blade, fastened to a pole, which was covered with red cloth, and ornamented
with many black raven's or eagle's feathers, hanging down either in a long row, or in long
bunches. (See the same plate, fig. 3.) These weapons they had always in their hand, and never laid
them aside. The women, like those of Brazil, carried their bundles on their backs, with a leather
strap passing over the forehead; they had their children with them, some of whom were in very
convenient cradles. They all had very neat bast mats, ornamented with black figures, on which
they slept, and some had, likewise, bear skins. Their travelling sacks, or bags, in which they had
all their effects, were of the same material.

The chief or leader of the Indians assembled here, was the Saukie chief, Kiokuck, a slender
man, of the middle size, with agreeable features, not very different from those of an European,
though of a darker colour. He wore a coloured calico shirt, and, on his breast, a large medal,
which he had received from the President of the United States; and likewise wore a figured handkerchief
round his head, and was wrapped in a green blanket. He carried in his hand a calumet,
ornamented with feathers. His face was not painted, his ears not disfigured, and it was affirmed
that he was not of pure Indian origin. He wore brass rings round his neck and wrists.

The dwelling-place of these Indians is on the western banks of the Mississippi, about Rock
River and Rock Island, where the agent appointed for them by the government resides. In 1805
they sold, to the United States, their territory on the east of the Mississippi; still claiming
a large tract of land, which extends from the upper Jowa River, along the west bank of the Mississippi,
down to the river Des Moines, and further back to the Missouri. The Fox Indians call
themselves Musquacki, or Mus-quack-ki-uck. They live sociably in villages, in permanent
arched huts, and it is said that they can muster 1,600 warriors (according to Dr. Morse, however,
only 800), and that they number about 5,000 souls. They plant maize, beans, gourds, &c.
The men hunt, and work in their lead mines, which are very productive, so that, it is said,
they have yielded 500,000 lbs. in one season. Their language has not a barbarous sound;
it has some nasals and gutturals; the words are very frequently pronounced indistinctly, so that

it is often difficult to write them down; though, on the whole, less so than is the case with many
other nations.

The French and English find much more difficulty than the Germans, in pronouncing all the
Indian languages of North America, with which I have become acquainted. It was highly interesting
to us, to observe so many of these Indians together. They were by no means grave and
still; on the contrary, they were very cheerful, and often laughed heartily. If one went up to
them familiarly, and spoke to them, many of them had a very agreeable, friendly expression;
others were cold, and appeared, to us, hostile. Several repeated, with pleasure, the words of their
language, and were very willing to have their portraits drawn, for which they always required a
present. At last they were so annoyed by the importunity of the motley crowd, that we could
have no more intercourse with them. They sold many of their effects, for which they received
money, which they soon disposed of, but always examined whether it was genuine or false.
There were some grave, dignified men among them, who carefully observed what was passing
around them. Of these, I especially noticed Watapinat and Massica.

General Clarke invited us to a small assembly, which he was to hold in his house with the
Indians. We accordingly repaired thither. This meeting took place in the apartments, which
are ornamented with a highly interesting collection of arms and utensils, which the General had
procured on his extensive travels with Captain Lewis. The rooms contain, likewise, portraits
of the most distinguished Indian chiefs of different nations. General Clarke, with his secretary,
was seated opposite to the Indians, who sat in rows along the walls of the apartment. We
strangers sat at the General's side, and near him stood the interpreter, a French Canadian. The
Indians, about thirty in number, had done their best to ornament and paint themselves; they all
looked very serious and solemn, and their chief sat at their right hand. The General first told
them, through the interpreter, for what reason he had assembled them here, on which Kiokuck
rose, with the calumet in his left hand, gesticulating with his right hand, in harmony with his
thoughts; he spoke very loud, in broken sentences, interrupted by short pauses. His speech was
immediately translated and written down. This conference lasted above half an hour. General
Clarke had introduced us to the Indians, telling them that we had come far over the ocean to see
them; they all testified their satisfaction in a rather drawling "Hah!" or "Ahah." Before and
after the sitting all the Indians passed us in a line, each giving us his right hand, and looking stedfastly
in our faces. They then withdrew, headed by their chiefs. The General had told them
that they should persevere in their amicable sentiments as hitherto; and they had expressed the
wish that their brethren might soon be set at liberty, because their wives and children at home
were suffering hunger and distress. Upon this the General advised them, when Black Hawk and
his associates should be set at liberty, to keep a watchful eye over them. On this condition he
would intercede for the prisoners. We were invited by the General to accompany him, on the

following day, on board the Warrior steam-boat, when he intended to convey the Indians to the
barracks, to grant them an interview with Black Hawk.

On the 26th of March we found the Indians already on board the Warrior, which was hired
for this excursion; others of these original figures, wrapped in their red blankets, were walking
on the beach. We had provided cigars and other trifles, by which we soon gained their confidence.
Massica, the tall young Saukie Indian, was the most interesting among them. As soon as General
Clarke came, the anchor was weighed, and the Warrior proceeded down the Mississippi. The
Indians assembled on the fore part of the ship, to sing: the bleak wind was much felt by many of
them, as they wore no covering under their blankets, yet they always remained on deck. Below,
in the after hold of the vessel, they had a fire, at which they boiled and roasted the provisions
that were given them. They examined, with much attention, the steam-engine, the hissing and
roaring of which interested them extremely. They formed groups of different kinds; many were
busy in improving the painting of their faces, at their small looking-glasses; others were smoking
their pipes in philosophical ease; and others lay asleep on the floor, wrapped in their blankets.
They very readily acquiesced, whenever we asked them to sing; their chorus-singing was remarkable;
it rises and falls, now loud now low, often quavering, yet, on the whole, not inharmonious;
and though it has some resemblance with that of the Botocudos, in Brazil, it was by no means so
rude and savage. Sometimes they shouted aloud, and generally ended their song with their war-whoop—a
shrill cry, in which they cause the voice to quaver, by holding the hand before the
mouth.

About ten o'clock the Warrior approached Jefferson barracks, where the inhabitants had
assembled on the shore to see the Indian deputation land. The Indians sung a wild chorus,
rattling their weapons, and, as soon as they had landed, marched in procession, led by their
chiefs, to the heights, where the barracks formed a quadrangle, open to the river, enclosing a
large space. General Clarke introduced us to General Atkinson, the commandant of the place;
and, after resting a short time in his house, we proceeded to a spacious empty hall in one of the
adjoining buildings, where the Indians were already seated in rows. The Generals sat opposite
to them, surrounded by the spectators, among whom were several ladies. When all were
assembled, Kiokuck, with the aid of the interpreter, delivered an address to General Atkinson,
who replied, on which the prisoners were introduced. First of all, Black Hawk appeared, a little
old man, perhaps seventy years of age, with grey hair, and a light yellow complexion; a
slightly curved nose, and Chinese features, to which the shaven head, with the usual tuft
behind, not a little contributed. None of the prisoners were painted. These poor men entered
with downcast looks; and though no Indian betrayed any lively demonstrations of emotion, such
feelings were very manifest in many of them. The prisoners gave their hands to their countrymen
all round, and then sat down with them. Two of the Indians, known as particularly

dangerous men, one of them the celebrated Winnebago prophet, who has a repulsive countenance,
had chains with large iron balls at their feet. The other prisoners were not chained, and we
were told that they were taken out every day to walk, by the guard. The speeches now recommenced:
Kiokuck spoke often, and interceded for the prisoners; and General Atkinson
repeated to them pretty nearly what General Clarke had already said, on which the Indians again
uttered their "Hah," or "Ahah." When the speeches were ended, the company withdrew, and
left the prisoners alone with their countrymen, to give free vent to their feelings. The sight of
old Black Hawk, and the whole scene of the prisoners and their friends, was affecting, and many
of the spectators appeared to participate in their feelings.

We then examined the barracks, in which four companies of the 6th regiment were quartered.
The hospital is a detached building; the surrounding country is open prairie; in the vicinity of
the buildings, however, it is covered with a wood of slender oaks, without underwood, and from
the eminence is a very agreeable prospect over the river. General Atkinson invited us to dinner,
and introduced us to his family. At three o'clock we again embarked in the Warrior with all the
Indians, and reached St. Louis late in the evening.

As it was my intention to travel through the interior of the western part of North America,
and, if possible, the Rocky Mountains, St. Louis was unquestionably the most proper basis for such
an enterprise. The question was, whether it was more advisable to go by the caravans by land to
Santa Fé, or to proceed by water up the Missouri? Captain Stewart (of Grand Tully), an
English traveller, with whom I had become acquainted at St. Louis, was on the point of setting
out by land by the caravan, and it would have been agreeable to me to travel in his company;
but after I had consulted many persons well acquainted with the country, the plan of following
the course of the Missouri seemed to be the most suitable for my purposes; for, first, I should
not be able to observe any Indians on the land journey; for if you happen to meet with them, you
must fight them, and, therefore, cannot become well acquainted with them; and, secondly, it is
extremely difficult, nay impossible, to make considerable collections of natural history on such
a journey. These reasons were decisive: I hoped, therefore, to obtain from the gentlemen of the
American Fur Company, a passage up the Missouri in their steam-boat, the Yellow Stone, which
was daily expected to return from New Orleans; and as soon as it had taken in a cargo, was to
set out on its voyage up the Missouri. It is necessary to prefix a few words respecting this
American Fur Company. The first regular company of this kind in the United States was the
Michilimakinack Fur Company, established in 1790. Its capital belonged chiefly to some
persons in Canada; but as foreigners were not allowed to trade with the Indians in the United
States, some citizens of the latter gave it the sanction of their names. The last war with England
dissolved the company, and during that time no trade was carried on with the Indians. About
1816, Mr. Astor, of New York, a countryman of ours, formed a fur company, under the name of

the American Fur Company.[13] His plan was well conceived, very extensive, and designed to carry
on trade with all the Indian tribes. Mr. Astor's enterprises towards the Columbia River did not
succeed, but in all other parts the fur trade prospered, and is carried on, up to the present time,
with great success. About the same time two other companies were formed at St. Louis—the
Missouri Fur Company, and the French Company, which proposed to carry on the trade on that
river. The first continued its operations for about five or six years, when it terminated, having
met with many difficulties. In 1822 the Columbia Fur Company was established, and violent
opposition and rivalry arose between the three companies, which continued till 1826. During
this time the fur trade had afforded but little profit to any of the persons engaged in it. In the
spring of that year, a person of the name of Crooks was sent from New York by the American
Fur Company to buy up the two other companies, in which he succeeded. Some of the members
of these companies were received into the American Company, and thus the whole of the very
extensive fur trade was concentrated in the hands of that company, and remains so up to this
moment. Some individuals and small associations have since made frequent attempts to carry on
the trade in the Indian territory and the Rocky Mountains, but have always been obliged to give
way to the powerful and wealthy company, which has now spread its commercial stations over a
great part of the interior of North America, and continues to extend them more and more.[14]

In British North America, two great fur companies were founded at an earlier period—the
North-west, and the Hudson's Bay Company, which for a long time were at open war with each
other, but afterwards joined, and still exist under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company. To
the north of the Missouri, on the borders of British North America, they are rivals of the American
Company, and both parties endeavour to draw over the Indians to their side. But as no white
settlers have yet penetrated to those remote and desolate regions, the American Company rules
there alone, by its commercial stations and its numerous servants, the goods with which they
carry on the trade having become necessary even to the most dangerous Indian tribes; for this
reason foreign travellers cannot expect to succeed in their enterprises without the consent and
assistance of this company.

At St. Louis I had become acquainted with several very interesting persons; Major Ofallon,
having been formerly agent of the Indian nations on the Missouri, was well acquainted with the
country, and assisted me with his advice, as well as Major Dougherty, now agent for the nations
of the Pawnees, Otos, and the Joways: they both advised me, as the only practicable means of
visiting those countries with safety, to join the American Fur Company, and to obtain from the

directors a passage on board their steam-boat. Fully appreciating the value of this counsel, I
endeavoured to become acquainted with Mr. Pierre Chouteau, who directed the affairs of the
company at St. Louis, and with Mr. Mc Kenzie, who usually lived on the Upper Missouri, and
was now on the point of proceeding on board the steamer to Fort Union, at the mouth of the
Yellow Stone River. Both gentlemen received me with great politeness, and readily acceded to
my request.

Our necessaries for this journey,[15] and many small articles for bartering with the Indians,
were procured and placed on board the Yellow Stone steamer. General Clarke favoured me
with his advice, as well as several other gentlemen, particularly Major Pilcher, who had penetrated
far into the Indian territory to the Rocky Mountains, while he was a member of the
Missouri Fur Company; likewise Messrs. Sanford and Bean, the former of whom was agent for
the Crows, Mandans, Assiniboims, Manitaries and Blackfeet, and the latter for the Puncas and
Sioux. All these persons, who were well acquainted with the Indian territory, were to accompany
us up the Missouri to their several stations. Major Ofallon, whom we visited at his pleasant
country seat, near St. Louis, had the kindness to furnish me with the map of the course of the
Missouri, by Lewis and Clarke, on a large scale. We found at his house an interesting collection
of Indian articles, and a great number of Indian scenes by Catlin, a painter from New York, who
had travelled in 1831 to Fort Union.

Before we left St. Louis, another deputation of Saukie Indians arrived from the Lower
Missouri, who held councils with General Clarke. They came down the Missouri in long double
canoes. Among them were several very strong, robust men, who, when they were in liquor,
were dreadfully savage and wild. One of their most distinguished warriors, who was remarkable
for a curved nose, exactly such as we see in the Mexican sculptures, suffered severely from consumption;
his family seemed much concerned about him; the women sat around him and
lamented. The time passed rapidly in observing these interesting people, till the 10th of April,
which was the day fixed for our departure.