 | Letters of Mrs. Adams, |  |
TO MRS. CRANCH.
My fourth letter I begin to you. I dare not reckon
the number I have to write; lest I should feel discouraged
in the attempt, I must circumscribe myself
to half a sheet of paper. Raree-shows are so
much the taste of this country, that they make one
even of the corpse of great people; and the other
day a gentleman presented me with a card to go
and see the corpse of the Duke of Northumberland,
who died at his house in the country, but was
brought here to be laid in state. "It is," said he,
"a senseless piece of pageantry; but, as such, I
would advise you to see it." It is practised only
with crowned heads, and some of the most ancient
families of Dukes. The late Duke was father to
Lord Percy, whom the Americans well remember.
His Lordship (who lives a few doors from us), being
the elder son, inherits the title and estate, and is now
Duke of Northumberland.
Northumberland House is in the city. A great,
immense pile of building, to which one enters through
massy iron gates. At these gates stood four porters,
clad in black; the court, up to the house, was hung
in black, and divided by a temporary railing, that
the spectators might pass in upon one side, and out
upon the other. From the court we entered a long
suite of rooms, five in number, through rows of servants,
one each side of us, all sabled as well as
the rooms. I never before understood that line of
Pope's,
I believe there were two thousand here, for daylight
was totally excluded. Upon the walls were as
many escutcheons as candles. These are formed so
as to place a light in each. These plates are all
washed with silver; being put upon the black cloth
and lighted in this manner, they gave the rooms a
tomb-like appearance; for in this manner are the
tombs of the dead enlightened in Catholic countries,
and it is not uncommon for the great to leave a
large sum of money for lights to be kept constantly
burning. Through these rooms we moved, with a
slow pace and a solemn silence, into that which
contained the corpse. Here, upon a superb bed of
state, surrounded with twenty-four wax lights upon
enormous silver candlesticks, lay the remains of his
Grace, as I presume, but so buried amidst stars and
garters, and the various insignia of the different
offices he sustained, that he might as well have
him; for these ornaments are displayed like flags,
Where gaudy yellow strove with flaming red."
Upon the bolster lay the ducal coronet, and round
the bed stood a dozen men in black, whom they call
mutes. It was said that the corpse was clothed in a
white satin tunic, and cap richly trimmed with
blonde lace; but for this I cannot vouch, though I
do not think it more ridiculous than the other parts
of the parade which I saw; and this farce was kept
up two days. The body was then deposited in
Westminster Abbey, with as much parade and show
as possible; but, being out of town, I did not see it.
We made an excursion as far as Portsmouth,
which lies about seventy-five miles from London. I
was much disappointed in the appearance of the
country, great part of it being only barren heath.
Within eighteen miles of the town, it appears fruitful
and highly cultivated. We spent only one day at
Portsmouth, but returned by another road, which
brought us back through Windsor. Here we stopped
a day and a half, and I was charmed and delighted
with it. The most luxuriant fancy cannot exceed the
beauties of this place. I do not wonder that Pope
styled it the seat of the muses. Read his "Windsor
Forest," and give full credit to his most poetic
flights. The road by which we entered the town.
was from the top of a very steep hill; from this hill,
a lawn presents itself on each side. Before you, a
each side a double plantation of lofty elms lift their
majestic heads, which is exceeded only by a view of
the still grander forest, at a distance, which is thirty
miles in circumference. From this hill you have a
view of the Castle and the town. This place, as in
former days, is the retreat of the monarch. The
royal family reside here nine months of the year,
not in the Castle, as that would require the attendance
of ministers, &c. The present Queen has
a neat lodge here, close to the Castle; and there
is another, a few rods distant, for the Princesses.
His Majesty is a visiter to the Queen, and the family
reside here with as little parade as that of a private
gentleman. It is the etiquette, that none of his
Majesty's ministers approach him upon business
here. Despatches are sent by messengers, and
answers returned in the same way. He holds his
levees twice a week, in town. The Castle is one of
the strongest places in Europe, as it is said, and a
safe retreat for the family in case any more revolutions
should shake this kingdom. It was first built
by Edward the Third. Charles the Second kept
his Court here during the summer months, and
spared no expense to render it worthy the royal
residence. He furnished it richly, and decorated it
with paintings by the first masters. It is situated
upon a high hill, which rises by a gentle ascent,
and enjoys a most delightful prospect round it. In
front is a wide and extensive vale, adorned with
fields and meadows, with groves on either side,
through them. Behind it are hills, covered with
fine forests, as if designed by nature for hunting.
The terrace round the Castle is a noble walk,
covered with fine gravel. It is raised on a steep declivity
of a hill, and overlooks the whole town.
Here the King and royal family walk on Sunday
afternoons, in order to show themselves to those of
their subjects who choose to repair to Windsor for
that purpose. In fine weather the terrace is generally
thronged. From the top of this tower on the
Castle, they showed us thirteen different counties.
To describe to you the apartments, the paintings
and decorations within this Castle, would require a
volume instead of a letter. I shall mention only
two rooms; and the first is that called the Queen's
bed-chamber, where, upon the top of the ceiling, is
painted the story of Diana and Endymion. The
bed of state was put up by her Majesty; the inside
and counterpanes are of white satin, the curtains of
pea green, richly embroidered by a Mrs. Wright,
embroiderer to her Majesty. There is a full length
picture of the Queen, with her fourteen children in
miniature, in the same piece, taken by Mr. West. It
is a very handsome likeness of her. The next room
is called "the room of beauties"; so named for the
portraits of the most celebrated beauties in the reign
of Charles the Second. They are fourteen in number.
There is also Charles's Queen, a very handsome woman.
The dress of many of them is in the style
of the present day. Here is also Queen Caroline's
china, elegantly disposed.
I have come now to the bottom of the last page.
If I have amused my dear niece, it will give great
pleasure to her affectionate aunt,
| Letters of Mrs. Adams, | |