University of Virginia Library

TO MISS LUCY CRANCH.

I Presume my dear Lucy would be disappointed,
if her cousin did not deliver her a line from her
aunt. Yet it is hardly fair to take up an exhausted


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pen to address a young lady, whose eager search
after knowledge entitles her to every communication
in my power.

I was in hopes to have visited several curiosities
before your cousin left us, that I might have been
able to relate them to my friends; but several
engagements in the company way, and some preparation
for his voyage, together with the necessary
arrangements for our own journey, have so
fully occupied me, that I fear I shall fail in my intentions.
We are to dine to-day with Mr. Jefferson.
Should any thing occur there worthy of notice, it
shall be the subject of my evening pen.

Well, my dear niece, I have returned from Mr.
Jefferson's. When I got there, I found a pretty
large company. It consisted of the Marquis and
Madame de la Fayette; the Count and Countess
de—; a French Count, who had been a general in
America, but whose name I forget; Commodore
Jones; Mr. Jarvis, an American gentleman, lately
arrived, the same who married Amelia Broom, who
says there is so strong a likeness between your
cousin and his lady, that he is obliged to be upon his
guard lest he should think himself at home, and
make some mistake; he appears a very sensible,
agreeable gentleman; a Mr. Bowdoin, an American
also; I ask the Chevalier de la Luzerne's pardon,—
I had like to have forgotten him; Mr. Williams, of
course, as he always dines with Mr. Jefferson; and
Mr. Short, though one of Mr. Jefferson's family, as
he has been absent some time, I name him. He


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took a resolution that he would go into a French
family at St. Germain, and acquire the language;
and this is the only way for a foreigner to obtain it.
I have often wished that I could not hear a word of
English spoken. I think I have mentioned Mr.
Short before, in some of my letters; he is about the
stature of Mr. Tudor; a better figure, but much like
him in looks and manners; consequently a favorite
of mine. They have some customs very curious
here. When company are invited to dine, if twenty
gentlemen meet, they seldom or never sit down, but
are standing or walking from one part of the room
to the other, with their swords on, and their chapeau
de bras,
which is a very small silk hat, always
worn under the arm. These they lay aside whilst
they dine, but reassume them immediately after.
I wonder how the fashion of standing crept in
amongst a nation, who really deserve the appellation
of polite; for in winter it shuts out all the fire
from the ladies; I know I have suffered from it
many times. At dinner, the ladies and gentlemen
are mixed, and you converse with him who sits next
you, rarely speaking to persons across the table,
unless to ask if they will be served with any thing
from your side. Conversation is never general, as
with us; for, when the company quit the table, they
fall into tête-à-tête of two and two, when the conversation
is in a low voice, and a stranger, unacquainted
with the customs of the country, would
think that everybody had private business to transact.


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Last evening, as we returned, the weather being
very soft and pleasant, I proposed to your uncle to
stop at the Tuileries and walk in the garden, which
we did for an hour; there was, as usual, a collection
of four or five thousand persons in the walks.
This garden is the most celebrated public walk in
Paris. It is situated just opposite to the river Seine,
upon the left hand as you enter Paris from Auteuil.
Upon Boston Neck, suppose that on one side flows
the river Seine, and on the other hand is the garden
of the Tuileries. There is a high wall next the
street, upon which there is a terrace, which is used
as a winter walk. This garden has six large gates,
by which you may enter. It is adorned with
noble rows of trees, straight, large, and tall, which
form a most beautiful shade. The populace are not
permitted to walk in this garden but upon the day
of Saint Louis, when they have it all to themselves.
Upon one side of this garden is the castle of the
Tuileries, which is an immense pile of building,
very ancient. It is in one of these châteaus, that
the concert, spirituel is held. Upon the terrace which
borders this château, are six statues and two vases.
These vases are large, circular spots of water,
which are conveyed there from the Seine by leaden
pipes under ground. Round the great vase, which
is in the midst of the parterre, are four groups
of white marble. One represents Lucretia; the
story, I know, is familiar to you. The Parisians do
well to erect a statue to her, for at this day, there
are many more Tarquins than Lucretias. She is


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represented as plunging the dagger into her bosom
in presence of her husband. There is another
statue,—Anchises saved from the flames of Troy
by his son Æneas, who is carrying him out upon his
shoulders, leading Ascanius, his son, by his hand.
The third is the rape of Orithyia, the daughter of
Erectheus, King of Athens, by Boreas; and the
fourth, the ravishment of Cybele by Saturn; the
two last very pretty ornaments for a public garden.
At the end of the great alley fronting the largest
water-piece, which is in the form of an octagon, are
eight more marble statues. Upon the right is Hannibal,
counting the rings which were taken from the
knights who were killed in the battle of Cannæ.
Two Seasons, Spring and Winter, are upon the left
hand, and a very beautiful figure of Scipio Africanus,
near which are the two other Seasons, Summer
and Autumn, and a statue of the Empress Agrippina.
Over against these are four Rivers, colossal, represented
sleeping, the Seine, the Loire, the Tiber, and
the Nile. At the end of the two terraces, are two
figures in marble, mounted upon winged horses; one
is Mercury, and the other Fame, who, as usual, is
blowing a trumpet. In very hot weather, the alleys
are watered; under the trees are seats and chairs,
which you may hire to sit in for a sous or two.
There are many plots of grass interspersed.

Thus, you see, I have scribbled you a long letter.
I hope my description will please you. This is my
eleventh letter, and I have yet several others to


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write; so adieu, my dear Lucy, and believe me

most affectionately yours,
A. A.