University of Virginia Library

45. From Nantes to Brest.

The Direct Railway, skirting the coast of Brittany, is open as far as
Châteaulin, a distance of 177½ M.; one train daily in 8½ hrs., fares
30 fr. 60, 22 fr. 70, 15 fr. 65 c. Omnibus from the station at Châteaulin
to the harbour (1 fr.), whence Steamboat to Brest in 4—5 hrs., fares 4
or 3 fr. The last portion of the route is however expected to be completed
during the present year.

Branch-line from Redon to Rennes. From Nantes to Rennes in 5,
thence to Brest in 8 hrs. (p. 239)

The peninsula of Brittany, 13,640 sq. M. in area, is intersected by
chains of hills which rise to the height of 1200 ft. The rock-formation is
principally granite; the soil is poor, the climate stormy and rainy. The
inhabitants, who are of Celtic origin, still cling to their ancient language
and customs, and are the least advanced in civilisation of all the inhabitants
of France. Rude Celtic antiquities (Menhir, stones placed on one end, sometimes
upwards of 40 ft. high; Dolms, or tables of stone, both probably employed
as monuments to the dead) are still encountered in great numbers, but
are gradually disappearing as cultivation advances.

On leaving the principal station the train skirts the harbour
on the Loire and passes the Palace and the Exchange (station).
It then follows the bank of the river for some distance and
finally proceeds inland. The S. coast of Brittany is flat and
marshy and the sea is seldom visible, so that the journey is
uninteresting.

At stat. Savenay the branch-line to St. Nazaire (p. 236) diverges,
at Redon (Rail. Restaurant) the line to Rennes (p. 239).

Several minor stations, then

Vannes (*Hôtel du Commerce; Hôtel de France), capital of
the Department du Morbihan, with 14,564 inhab., a small harbour
and no gas, although a place of considerable importance.

At Carnac near stat. Auray (Poste) the Celtic monuments of
Brittany are most abundant. Branch-line from Auray to Napoléonville,
formerly Pontivy (the former name, given to it by Napoleon
I., after having long been in abeyance, was revived under
the second empire).

Lorient (Hôtel de France), with 35,462 inhab., is an important
military and commercial place of modern origin, strongly fortified
and situated in a marshy plain. The next important place is

Quimper (Hôtel de l'Epée), with 11,438 inhab., capital of the
Department of Finisterre, possessing a handsome cathedral,
pleasantly situated.

A bleak stony district is next traversed and the train then
descends to stat. Châteaulin (Grande Maison), charmingly situated
in the valley of the Aulne, the continuation of which forms one
of the branches of the harbour at Brest. The train crosses the
river by an imposing viaduct. The steamboat journey to Brest
is beautiful. The diligence accommodates a limited number of
passengers only.

Brest. Hôtel de Provence (Pl. a), in the Champ de Bataille;
Hôtel du Grand Monarque (Pl. b); Hôtel des Voyageurs (Pl. c),

Rue de Siam 16; Hôtel de la Marque, or de Nantes (Pl. d), a commercial
inn; Hôtel de France.

Omnibus from the station or the quay, with luggage 60 c.

Steamboats daily to Châteaulin and Landerneau (see p. 239); to
New York every fortnight (every other Saturday) in 10 days, 1st cl. 825,
2nd cl. 500 fr. (the express from Paris at 8 p. m. on Fridays corresponds
with these vessels which start on Saturday afternoon).

Brest, situated near Cape Finisterre, the most W. point of
France, with 67,833 inhab., possesses an admirable harbour, the
best in France and one of the best in Europe. It extends
between two promontories and is extremely capacious, being
about 13 M. long and 2¼ M. broad. The narrow (1 M.) entrance,
Le Goulet, is blockaded by a rocky island, which renders it almost
impregnable, and commanded by powerful batteries, numbering
about 400 guns. An extensive system of fortifications protects
these batteries and the various forts towards the land-side and
at the same time commands the inner roadstead. The latter is
divided into two main arms, which with numerous creeks and
inlets at last terminate in rivers. The N. arm, that of Landerneau,
is the estuary of the Elorn; the S., that of Châteaulin, is formed
by the influx of the Aulne.

At the mouth of a deep, ravine-like creek, on the N. side
of the roadstead, the town of Brest is situated. The principal
part of the town lies on the 1. bank, connected with the suburb
Recouvrance by a massive iron bridge, capable of being opened
to admit of the passage of the vessels of war from the docks
situated within it. The Naval Harbour is established in this
creek, which is 30 ft. in depth. At the issue stands an ancient
castle of the Dukes of Brittany, modernized by Vauban and incorporated
with the other fortifications. The improvement of the
harbour was commenced by Richelieu in 1631, and subsequent
governments have prosecuted the works down to the present
time. These operations have been conducted on a gigantic scale,
and in many places vast excavations in the solid granit have been
necessary. The entire establishment comprises three docks, a
number of workshops for the manufacture of cables, sails,
machines, cannon etc., extensive magazines, sailors' barracks accommodating
3500 men, a large hospital etc. (permission to visit
the dockyard obtained at the office of the "Etat Major" on exhibiting
a passport or visiting-card).

To this vast naval station, the workshops of which employ
8—9000 hands, Brest is indebted for its importance and busy
traffic. In other respects it is a place of modern aspect and
destitute of attraction. The Cours Ajot, a charming promenade,
affording an extensive survey of the roads, is however deserving
of mention.

At the foot of the latter, near Portztrein, to the 1. of the
entrance to the inner government-harbour, the commercial harbour,

BREST

in pursuance of a decree of 1859, is in course of construction
and is enclosed by protecting bulwarks. It is, however, questionable
whether this harbour will attain to great importance, Brest being
so far removed from the main arteries of traffic.

A number of vessels of war generally lie in the roads. A
visit to these, or by a local steamer to landerneau or Châteaulin
(2½ hrs., returning by railway, p. 237), is recommended as the
pleasantest occupation for a few leisure hours.

Brest is also strongly fortified on the land-side and even in
former centuries has frequently been unsuccessfully attacked by
the English.