17. Montmartre.
Cemetery of Montmartre.
The Rue Laffitte, which is terminated by Notre Dame de
Lorette, and its continuation the Rue des Martyrs lead in a direct
line from the Boulevard des Italiens to the suburb of Montmartre.
Pursuing the same direction about 20 min. more, the stranger
will reach the summit of Montmartre, 300 ft. above the Seine,
a hill well known for its extensive limestone and gypsum or
plaster of Paris quarries, and commanding a view of the N. of
Paris. According to tradition St. Denis and his companions suffered
martyrdom here, whence the appellation of the hill, which is
equivalent to
Mons Martyrum.
In 1147 Louis VI. here founded a Benedictine Abbey, secularized
during the revolution. Portions of the buildings still
exist. On the E. side is situated a "Mount of Olives" (Jardin
des Oliviers), containing singular representations, to which pilgrimages,
especially in September, are frequently undertaken.
A small enclosed space by the windmill (access 10 c.) affords
a fine *panorama of the huge sea of houses in the city, to the
N. of the plain of St. Denis and the course of the Seine, and
to the E. over Vincennes in the foreground to the valley of
the Marne. The prospect from the recently erected Tour de
Solferino, on the E. slope of the hill, is still more extensive.
At the W. base of Montmartre, between the Barrière Blanche
and the Barrière de Clichy, extending over disused gypsum
quarries, is situated the *Cemetery of Montmartre, the oldest
of the burial-grounds of modern Paris. Although far inferior to
Père Lachaise in the number of its monuments and illustrious
names, it well merits a visit.
To the r. in the first path, *three monuments to Polish
refuges, "exules Poloni memoriae suorum". The visitor now returns
hence and enters the main path. Here, to the r., is the
family-vault of Fr. Guil. Kalkbrenner (d. 1849), the well-known
composer.
Farther on, at the corner to the l., the tomb of the Cavaignac
family, of which the most eminent members were the author
Godefroy (d. 1845) and the general Eugène (d. 1857), president
of the republic from June 28th to Oct. 20th, 1848.
Beneath the cross in the rotunda repose the republicans who
fell during the execution of the coup d'état in Dec., 1852, a spot
always decorated with numerous wreaths.
Farther on in the principal path: Baron Meneval, "secrétaire
intime de l'empereur Napoléon".
On a slight eminence at the extremity of this avenue is
situated the Jewish Burial Ground (closed on Saturdays).
On most of the tombstones the visitor perceives small heaps of
stones or pebbles, placed there as a token of love or esteem in
accordance with a prevalent Jewish custom. — In a conspicuous
position to the l. at the end of the walk, Halévy, the celebrated
composer (d. 1862), with marble statue over life-size.
Returning thence and diverging towards the W. (the second path
to the r. after leaving the Jewish Burial Ground), the visitor will
perceive to the r. the monument of Comte Daru (d. 1829), the
constant companion and confidant of Napoleon, minister of war
in 1813, and also known as an historian.
r. Armand Marrast (d. 1852), the well known republican editor,
in 1848 "membre du gouvernement provisoire, Maire de Paris,
Président de l'Assemblée Nationale".
At the extremity of this path, before the steps are reached,
the visitor diverges to the r.; one of the first graves to the l.
is that of Ad. Nourrit (d. 1839), the celebrated singer.
l. Duchesse d'Abrantès (d. 1838), wife of Marshal Junot, and
an eminent authoress; bust of the duchess in a medallion by
David d'Angers.
l. Charles Zeuner (d. 1841), the composer. — The steps to
the r. are now descended and those above, on the opposite side,
ascended.
On the eminence at the W. extremity of the Jewish cemetery
is a monument which marks the spot where the heart of Marshal
Lannes, Duc de Montebello, who died of his wounds in 1809, is
interred.
l. A large block of marble indicates the resting-place of the
artist Paul Delaroche (d. 1857). Opposite is a chapel, decorated
in the Byzantine style, to the memory of Marie Potocka, Princesse
Soltikoff (d. 1845); near it, the tomb of Prince Tufiakin, chamberlain
of the emperor of Russia (d. 1845). Beyond the embankment
is the extensive new cemetery with numerous monuments, which
however are of comparatively little interest.
A lofty obelisk, the most conspicuous monument in the cemetery,
marks the tomb of the Duchesse de Montmorency (d. 1829);
adjacent to it, the grave of a Prince of Saxe Cobourg (d. 1832).
