University of Virginia Library

A. ROUTES FROM LONDON TO PARIS.

39. By Folkstone, Boulogne and Amiens.

By Tidal Express Trains (see advertisements in the "Times"
"Bradshaw" from Charing Cross or London Bridge in 10—12 hrs., average
sea-passage 2 hrs.; fares 2 L. 11 s. 8 d. and 1 L. 18 s., return tickets valid
for one month 4 L. 7 s. and 3 L. 7 s. — Passengers with single tickets
may break their journey at the principal stations and spend 7 days
the route. Omnibus from the harbour at Boulogne to the railway station
gratis. Luggage registered from London or Folkstone to Paris is not
examined before arrival at Paris (station, Place Roubaix).

By Steamboat from London to Boulogne daily (see adver-
tisement in the "Times" or in "Bradshaw") and thence to Paris by railway
total 14—17 hrs. excl. of detention at Boulogne, where the trains do not
always correspond with the steamers; river-passage about 6 hrs., sea-
passage 3 hrs.; fares 25 s. and 18 s.; tickets available for 10 days. This
is the cheapest and in favourable weather the pleasantest route.

Boulogne-sur-Mer. (Hotels: *des Bains; *d'Angleterre; du
Nord, all in the Rue Napoleon and in the vicinity of the harbour. Oppo-
site to the steamboat-wharf: London and Folkstone Hôtel. Near
the baths: Hôtel de la Marine and Grand Hôtel du Pavillon, com-
manding a fine view. — Restaurants: Vermond and Café de France
d'Angleterre in the Rue Napoleon; Café Veyez, Grand'Rue 1. — Voitures
place: per drive 1 fr. 50 c., per hour 2 fr. for the first, 1 fr. 75 c. for the
following. — Diligence to Calais 3 times daily in 3½ hrs. — English Church
Service in the Haute-Ville, the Basse-Ville, the Rue Royale and the Rue
de la Lampe.)

Boulogne, termed "sur mer" to distinguish it from Boulogne-
sur-Seine near Paris, the Bononia (?) or Gesoriacum of the Ro-
mans, is an important sea-port town, situated on the Liane, with
a population of 36,265, of whom upwards of 2000 are English
The aspect of the town may be said to combine a certain amount
of English comfort with French taste. It possesses 120 educational
establishments, many of which enjoy a high reputation.

The Basse-Ville is situated on a slight eminence which rises
gradually from the river. A broad street (Rue de la Lampe
Rue St. Nicolas, Grand'Rue) leads from the Pont de l'Ecluse
the Haute-Ville. This line of streets is intersected by another
(Rue Napoléon, Rue Royale), from N.W. to S.E., the most ani-
mated portion of the town, where the principal shops are situated.

The *Museum (open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays
and Saturdays from 10 to 4 o'clock; at other times, fee 1 fr.),
situated in the Grand'Rue, merits a visit. 1st Room: curiosities
from China, India and the South Sea Islands; French coins a
medals, among the latter one bearing an inscription which will
provoke the smile of the English traveller: "Descente en Angle

terre, frappé à Londres", in reality "frappé" at Paris in 1804 for
the purpose of commemorating Napoleon's projected invasion of
England. — 2nd Room: Roman antiquities, ancient weapons and
armour, carving, coins etc. — 3rd Room: Celtic, Greek and
Egyptian antiquities, amongst the latter a mummy, pronounced
by the celebrated archæologist Champollion to be a finer specimen
than any of those contained in the Louvre. — A large hall
contains casts from well known sculptures. — The upper story
contains pictures, stuffed quadrupeds etc. — On the basement story,
to the left, models of naval and architectural objects, of the Colonne
Napoléon and the Tower of Caligula. — The Library contains
30,000 vols., among which are some good specimens of early printing.

At the extremity of the Grand'Rue, to the left, is the Esplanade,
adorned with a colossal bust of Henry II. of France by
David, commemorating the restoration of the town to the French
by the English (1550).

The Haute-Ville, enclosed by lofty walls, is entered by the
Porte des Dunes, within which, to the left, the Hôtel de Ville
is situated, occupying the site of an ancient castle where in 1065
the crusader Godfrey de Bouillon, third son of the Count de
Boulogne, was born. The lower portion of the tower dates from
the 11th. cent., the upper portion from the year 1544.

The Cathedral, situated in the vicinity, a modern and still
unfinished building in the Italian style, occupies the site of a
Gothic church demolished in 1793. The perforated vaulting of
the cupola over the transept is peculiar. The principal point of
attraction in this edifice is the lofty dome, conspicuous from a
great distance and affording a most extensive *prospect, comprising
the downs, the elevated plain which the road to Calais
traverses, in the foreground the Colonne Napoléon, and in the
distance, in favourable weather, the white cliffs of the English
coast. The entrance to the staircase is by a door to the right
in the interior of the church (access gratuitous).

The Crypt, discovered in 1840 during the construction of the
church, is believed to date from the 8th or 9th cent. Entrance
(1 fr.) near the staircase to the dome.

The E. angle of the Haute-Ville is formed by the Chãteau,
in which Louis Napoleon was confined after the attempted insurrection
of 1840. It is now converted into barracks and an
artillery depôt. No. 3, Rue du Château, in the vicinity, is the
house in which Lesage, the author of Gil Blas, died (1747).

The Harbour, especially the W. portion near the Douane
and the steamboat-wharf, in the vicinity of some of the principal
hotels, presents a scene of the greatest animation.

At the extremity of the harbour is situated the Etablissement
de Bains, a spacious building, open from May to November,
but far inferior to that of Dieppe.

Towards evening the Pier (Jetée), which extends upwards of
500 yds. from the shore, forms a favourite promenade. The opposite
(W.) pier is 180 yds. longer. Both are provided with
light-houses.

The spacious, semi-circular Basin on the left bank of the
Liane was constructed by order of Napoleon I. to accommodate
the flotilla which was to convey his troops to England (see below).

The Fish-Market is held at an early hour in the morning on
the quay, near the Hôtel des Bains. The fishermen and their
families occupy a separate quarter of the town on the W. side
and constitute one tenth of the entire population. They are remarkable
for their adherence to the picturesque costume of their
ancestors, and in their character and usages differ materially from
the other inhabitants of the town. The women (Matelottes), as
is usually the case in communities of this description, exercise
unlimited sway on shore, whilst the sea is the undisputed domain
of their husbands.

Jésus Flagellé, a small chapel 1½ M. to the N. of the town,
a few hundred paces to the left of the Colonne Napoleon is a
place of pious resort, much frequented by the fishing population
as the greater number of the votive tablets indicate.

Boulogne possesses upwards of 250 fishing boats, which during
the herring fishery extend their voyages as far as the Scottish
coast and even to Iceland, and in favourable seasons realize a
sum of 60,000 L.

In 1804 Napoleon assembled an army of 172,000 infantry and
9000 cavalry on the table-land to the N. of Boulogne, under the
command of Soult, Ney, Davoust and Victor, and in the harbour
a flotilla consisting of 2413 craft of various dimensions, for the
purpose of invading England and establishing a republic there.
The troops were admirably drilled and only awaited the arrival of
the fleets from Antwerp, Brest, Cadiz and the harbours of the
Mediterranean, which had been formed several years previously
with this express object. Their union was prevented by the
English fleet under Sir Robert Calder, and the victory of Nelson
at Trafalgar (Oct. 22nd, 1805) completed the triumph of England
and the discomfiture of the entire undertaking.

The Colonne Napoléon, a pillar of marble of the Doric order,
160 ft. in height, situated 1½ M. from Boulogne on the road to
Calais, was founded in 1804, the first stone being laid by Marshal
Soult in the presence of the whole army. It was not, however,
completed until 1841. The summit is occupied by a statue of
the emperor, one of Bosio's finest works. The basement is adorned
with reliefs and emblems of war. The view from the
summit (custodian's fee 50 c.) is similar to that commanded by
the dome of the cathedral. Model in the museum (p. 204).

A Block of Marble, situated about ¾ M. nearer the coast,
commemorates the distribution of the decorations of the Legion
of Honour to the army in 1804. It was removed after the Restoration
but subsequently replaced. In the vicinity is the pilgrimage
chapel of Jésus Flagellé, mentioned above.

Nearer the town, on the chalk cliffs (falaises) above the bathing
establishment, are seen the scanty remnants of a Roman tower
(La Tour d'Ordre, perhaps from turris ardens), conjectured to
have been a light-house, erected by Caligula in the year 40, who
like Napoleon made an unsuccessful attempt to invade England
from this point. When this district was conquered by the English
in 1544, the tower was still standing and at a distance of
200 yds. from the cliffs. A century later it fell, and since that
period the sea has made such encroachments that the fragments
of the tower are new close to the verge. Model in the museum
(p. 204).

The railway-station at Boulogne is on the left bank of the
Liane, close to the bridge.

On quitting the station the train traverses the valley of the
Liane. The country soon becomes flat and uninteresting. Near
the station of Pont-de-Brique is situated a château in which Napoleon
frequently resided, and whence several of his imperial decrees
emanated. The following station is Neufchâtel.

The train now traverses sandy downs and crosses the Cauche
by a long bridge. Near the station of Etaples two lofty lighthouses
are conspicuous objects. Montreuil - Verton is one of the
places mentioned in Sterne's "Sentimental Journey". Near Noyelle,
situated in the midst of a dreary expanse of sand, the Somme
was crossed by Edward III. before the battle of Cressy. The
train now quits the sea-coast and proceeds inland, generally
following the course of the Somme.

Abbeville (Hôtel de l'Europe; Tête de Bœuf) is a manufacturing
town of ancient origin, with a population of 20,058. The
principal object of interest is the unfinished Church of St. Wolfram,
founded by Cardinal d'Amboise, the minister and favourite of
Louis XII., at the commencement of the 16th cent. The façade
with its three portals, a richly decorated specimen of florid Gothic,
merits examination.

The district now becomes more picturesque as the fertile
valley of the Somme is ascended. After passing several stations
of minor importance the train traverses three short tunnels and
stops at the station of

Amiens (Hôtel de France; Hôtel de Paris; Hôtel du Rhin
situated in a small garden near the station; Hôtel de l'Univers;
*Railway Restaurant), the ancient capital of Picardy, now of the
Department of the Somme, with a population of 58,780, is one

of the most considerable manufacturing towns in France. In 1802
the peace between France and England was here concluded.

The *Cathedral, one of the finest Gothic structures in Europe,
was erected in 1220—1288 by the architects Robert de Luzarche,
Thomas de Cormont and his son Renault. The lofty tower over
the transept, 350 ft. in height, was erected in 1529 to replace
a tower which had been destroyed by lightning two years previously.
The uncompleted towers of the W. façade belong (the
lower) to the 13th and the 15th centuries. The three lofty
Portals, with their retiring arches, are richly decorated with reliefs
and statues. The reliefs of the central portal represent the
Final Judgment, the statues the 12 Apostles. "Le beau dieu
d'Amiens" is an admirable figure of the Saviour which separates
the doors of this portal. Above the portal to the right is represented
the entombment of the Virgin, above that to the left the
history of St. Firmin, the apostle of Picardy.

The church possesses a nave and transept with two aisles.
The choir with its four aisles is flanked by a series of 7 lateral
chapels. The chapels in the other aisles were added at a period
subsequent to that of the original edifice. The magnificent rose-windows,
each upwards of 100 ft. in circumference, are filled
with stained glass. A visit to the triforium, which commands
a good survey of the church, may conveniently be combined with
a walk round the external gallery and the ascent of the tower.
(The sacristan lives to the left of the W. façade; fee 1 fr.)

The S. transept contains a high relief of the 16th cent., painted and
gilded, representing in four compartments the history of St. James the
Great. The N. transept contains similar reliefs, representing the expulsion
of the money-changers from the Temple. A species of stone vessel,
resembling a sarcophagus and probably dating from the 11th cent., is believed
to have been employed in ancient times as a font.

The N. wall of the choir is adorned with reliefs representing the history
of John the Baptist; those on the S. side illustrate the life of St. Firmin,
sculptured in 1480 and 1539.

Behind the high-altar is a monument to Canon Lucas, executed at the
commencement of the last century by Blasset. Between the statues of the
canon and the Virgin is a much admired weeping angel ("enfant pleureur").

The stalls of the choir are fine specimens of carving of the commencement
of the 16th cent. and deserve examination. At the entrance to the
choir are placed statues of St. Vincent de Paul and St. Carlo Borromeo.

With the exception of the cathedral Amiens possesses little
to arrest the traveller A colossal statue of Dufresne Ducange
(d. 1688), an eminent linguist and native of Amiens, is passed
on the way from the station to the town.

At Longueau (Rail. restaurant), the first station after Amiens,
the lines from Boulogne and Calais unite.

Near Boves are seen the ruins of an ancient castle in which
Henry IV. frequently resided with the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrées.
A view is here obtained of the picturesque valley of the Noye.

Clermont, to the right, the next station of importance, is situated
on a grassy eminence, crowned with an ancient château,
now employed as a prison. The district here becomes extremely
picturesque and animated.

Liancourt. To the left of the line a handsome church of the
16th cent. By the desire of Henry IV. Gabrielle d'Estrées was
married to a certain Seigneur de Liancourt, a man of deformed
stature and deficient intellect, on condition that he should never
see her again after the ceremony.

As the train approaches Creil (*Refreshment-room) it skirts
the bank of the Oise. Extensive porcelain manufactory on an
island in the river.

Beauvais, 1 hr. by railway to the N. W. of Creil, possesses a magnificent,
though uncompleted, Gothic cathedral, remarkable for its noble
and lofty proportions.

The direct line to Paris is vià Chantilly and St. Denis. Montmarire
rises to the right as the city is approached. The
magnificent Station du Nord, erected in 1863, is adorned externally
with a number of statues emblematical of the principal
cities of Europe. — Conveyances see p. 1.

40. By Dover, Calais and Amiens.

By Express Trains, starting from the London Bridge, Charing
Cross, Victoria and Blackfriars stations, in 10½—11½ hrs.; sea passage
generally under 2 hrs.; fares 2 L. 17 s. 10 d. and 2 L. 2 s. 6 d ; tickets available
for 7 days, with option of halting at Dover, Calais and Amiens; return-tickets,
valid for one month, 4 L. 7 s. and 3 L. 7 s. Luggage should
be registered, in order that the examination at Calais may be avoided.

By Steamer from London to Calais twice a week (comp. advertisement
in the "Times" or in "Bradshaw") and thence to Paris by
railway; total 15—20 hrs., excl. of detention at Calais where the trains
seldom correspond with the steamboat; river-passage about 6 hrs.; sea-passage
4½—5 hrs.; fares 31 s. 3 d. and 33 s. 3 d., tickets available for
10 days.

Calais (Hotels: Station Hotel, conveniently situated at the terminus;
de France. — Sea-Bathing: to the N. of the Bassin de Retenue. —
Military Music in the Grande Place on Sundays and Thursdays from 2 to
4 o'clock. — Diligence to Boulogne twice daily (in 3½ hrs.) from the Grande
Place, N. side — English Churches: in Calais and in the Basse Ville)
is an important military point and is surrounded by strong fortifications
(24,018 inhab.). Its form is an oblong square, the N.
side of which is bounded by the Bassin à Flot, the Port de
l'échouage and the Bassin du Paradis. Courgain, a suburb contiguous
to the latter, is inhabited exclusively by sailors and fishermen.
The Quai de Marée, which extends into the sea for a considerable
distance, forms an agreeable promenade.

In front of the Hôtel de Ville, in the Grande Place, stand two
small obelisks, adorned with busts of the Duc de Guise and Cardinal
Richelieu. The former retook the town from the English
in 1558, after it had been held by them for two centuries; the latter

was the founder of the citadel and arsenal. When the military
band plays (see above), the Grande Place is a favourite resort
of the townspeople. — The Church, in the early Gothic style,
was erected whilst the town was in the possession of the English.

Calais, together with the Basse-Ville, contains a greater number
of English residents than Boulogne; most of them, however,
are lace-manufacturers and persons in humble life.

Quitting Calais, the train skirts a portion of the fortifications,
follows the bank of the Aa, and crosses the Canal d'Ardres. The
district traversed is flat and marshy, and being below the high
tide level is protected by embankments.

Near the station of Ardres, to the right of the line, the celebrated
meeting of Henry VIII. and Francis I. on the "Field of
the Cloth of Gold" took place in 1520.

St. Omer (Ancienne Poste; Hôtel de France; Hôtel d'Angleterre),
a fortified town with a population of 25,706, is situated on the
Aa in a marshy, uninteresting district. The Cathedral is a fine
edifice in the transition style. The Abbey of St. Bertin, of
which a few scanty fragments only remain, once afforded an asylum
to Thomas à Becket, whilst an exile in France. St. Omer also
contains a Seminary for English and Irish Roman Catholics, the
attendance at which is very small. English Church in the Rue du
Bon Pasteur; number of English residents about 450.

Hazebrouck (Trois Chevaux; St. George) is the next station of
importance, being the junction of the lines from Calais, Dunkirk and
Lille. The direct line to Paris is by Arras (Griffon; St. Paul; Hôtel
de l'Europe; Hôtel du Commerce), a fortified town of considerable
importance, with a population of 25,905, situated on the Scarpe.
It is the seat of the bishop and contains three important schools
for officers of the engineers. The Grande Place and the Place
de l'Hôtel de Ville present an interesting aspect, many of the
houses dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. Their mediæval
exterior, by a decree of the town-council, may not be altered. —
Robespierre was born here. — When in 1640 the French captured
the town, at that time occupied by a Spanish garrison, they found
the following inscription over one of the gates:

Instead of removing this couplet they contented themselves with
erasing the first letter of the fourth word, thus exactly reversing
the meaning.

After passing several stations of no great importance, the train
stops at Longueau (Rail. restaurant), where passengers for Amiens
(10 min. by rail) change trains. From Longueau to Paris by Creil
(R. 39) see p. 207.

41. By Newhaven, Dieppe and Rouen.

By Express Tidal Train (during the season) from London Bridge,
Victoria and Kensington stations in 12-15 hrs. (see advertisements in
the "Times" or "Bradshaw"); single tickets, available for 7 days, 30 s. and
22 s., return-tickets, available for one month, 50 s. and 26 s.; sea-passage
about 6 hours. Luggage should be registered. This route is one of the
least expensive and in favourable weather most agreeable, but not recommended
in winter.

Dieppe. (Hotels: Royal, Bristol, des Bains, all facing the
shore; Victoria and de Londres opposite the harbour; Chariot
d'Or, *du Commerce and Armes de France, more moderate. —
Restaurants: Lafosse, Grand' Rue 90, and adjoining the bath establishment;
Restaurant de la Place d'Armes, Grand' Rue 56; Café Suisse on the
quay. — Omnibus to the station 40 c., luggage 20 c. — English Church
Service every Sunday).

Dieppe (20,187 inhab.) is situated in a valley formed by two
ranges of lofty, white chalk-cliffs, at the mouth of the Arques
which forms a harbour capable of containing vessels of considerable
size. As a sea-port and commercial town, the vicinity of
Havre has deprived it of its former importance. The trade of
Dieppe is now principally confined to its traffic in fish. As a
watering-place, however, it is in a flourishing condition, being
patronized by the present emperor and annually visited by a large
number of English, as well as French families.

The principal attraction for visitors is the *Etablissement de
Bains, the paradise of loungers during the bathing season and
replete with every convenience. In front are placed about
200 small tents, which serve as dressing-rooms, whence the
bathers descend into the water, accompanied by a guide-baigneur,
if necessary. In favourable weather the scene is very animated
and novel withal to the English visitor.

Soon after 2 o'clock the band begins to play, and towards 3
the promenades in front of the bath establishment and along the
beach are crowded. The gardens in the rear of the establishment
afford sheltered walks, and contain gymnastic apparatus and a
riding-course. At the entrance, bathing-tickets may be purchased.

On the way from the bathing-place to the town is situated
the Bazaar, occupying a circular space, in the centre of which is
a mast with a red flag, hoisted when the tide is favourable for
bathing. Here the beautiful carved ivory ornaments manufactured
at Dieppe may be purchased.

In the immediate vicinity of the bazaar rises the handsome
and extensive Castle, with its massive walls, towers and bastions,
erected in 1433 as a defence against the English. In 1694, however,
it was unable to prevent the wanton cannonade of the
English fleet, then returning from an unsuccessful attack on Brest;
the result of which unequal contest was the total destruction of
the town. The view from the summit, and especially from the

Dieppe

lofty bridge, is very extensive, but beyond this the castle possesses
nothing to attract visitors.

The church of St. Jacques (the patron saint of fishermen),
in the Place Nationale, dates from the 14th and 15th centuries.
The interior is, however, sadly disfigured. Near the church is
the Statue of Duquesne, a celebrated admiral and native of
Dieppe (d. 1687), who conquered the redoubtable De Ruyter off
the Sicilian coast in 1676. The Dutch hero soon after died of
his wounds at Syracuse. Duquesne, who was a Calvinist, was
interred in the church of Aubonne on the Lake of Geneva.

On market-days, Wednesdays and Saturdays, an opportunity is
afforded to the stranger of observing some of the singular headdresses
of the Norman country-women.

The Jetée de l'Ouest, situated at the N.W. extremity of the
town, forms an agreeable evening promenade, and with the opposite
Jetée de l'Est constitutes the entrance to the harbour. Towards
the S.E. the harbour terminates in the Bassin de Retenue, flanked
by the Cours Bourbon, an avenue ¾ M. in length, and affording
a retired and sheltered walk.

This basin contains an extensive Oyster Park, formerly one
of the principal sources from which Paris derived its supplies.
The oysters are first brought from the inexhaustible beds of Cancale
and Granville to St. Vaast near Cherbourg, whence they are afterwards
removed to Dieppe. Here they are "travaillées", or dieted,
so as materially to improve their flavour and render them fit for
exportation. It has been observed that the oyster, when in a natural
state, frequently opens its shell to eject the sea-water from
which it derives its nourishment and to take in a fresh supply.
In the "park" they open their shells less frequently, and after a
treatment of a month it is found that they remain closed for ten
or twelve days together, an interval which admits of their being transported
in a perfectly fresh state to all parts of the continent. Since
the completion of the railway from Paris to Cherbourg the oyster-park
of Dieppe has lost much of its importance, and the metropolis
now derives its chief supplies from a more convenient source.

Contiguous to the oyster-park is a restaurant of humble pretension,
where the delicious bivalve (75 c. per dozen), fresh from
its native element, may be enjoyed in the highest perfection.

Le Pollet, a suburb of Dieppe inhabited exclusively by sailors
and fishermen, adjoins the Bassin de Retenue on the N. side. The
population differs externally but little from that of Dieppe. It is,
however, alleged that they are the descendants of an ancient
Venetian colony, and it is certain that to this day they possess
a primitive simplicity of character unknown among their neighbours.
On the coast, 1½ M. to the N.E. of this point, is situated
the so-called Camp de César, more probably of Gallic origin.

Near it is another Bathing-place, with a restaurant, affording
greater retirement than the establishment at Dieppe.

By far the most interesting point in the environs of Dieppe
is the ruined castle of Arques, situated at the confluence of the
Béthune and Arques, about 4 M. to the S.E. of the town It is
memorable in history as the scene of the victory gained by Henry IV.
with his army of 4000 men over 30,000 men of the League under
the Duc de Mayenne, Sept. 21st. 1589. The issue of the contest,
as Sully records in his memoirs, was mainly due to the
execution done by four cannons which were fired from the castle
walls. The spot where the fiercest struggle took place is denoted
by an obelisk.

The best route from Dieppe to Arques is by St. Pierre, diverging
to the left from the Rouen road immediately outside of
the town. Those who prefer to drive may proceed by carriage
(in 1½ hr.) as far as the auberge of Arques, whence the castle
must be visited on foot. The view from the summit repays the
ascent, and comprises the valleys of the Arques, the Béthune and
the Eaulne.

The excursion may also be made by water (ascent 1¼, return
¾ hr.). Boatmen may be engaged at the Bassin de Retenue,
into which the Arques flows.

From Dieppe diligence twice daily (office on the quay) to Abbeville
(p. 206) in 8 hrs., coupé 8 fr.; to St. Valéry three times
daily Passengers usually breakfast or dine at Ville d'Eu (*Hôtel
du Cygne), where these two routes diverge.

Soon after quitting Dieppe the train passes through a tunnel,
upwards of 1 M. in length, and enters the valley of the Scie,
which it crosses 22 times. After passing several stations of minor
importance, the train reaches Malaunay, where the Rouen-Havre
and Dieppe lines unite. From this point to Rouen the
district traversed is picturesque and animated, abounding in cotton
and other factories.

Rouen. (Hôtels: d'Albion and d'Angleterre, both on the quay,
R. 2½—5 fr., B. 1½, D. 3 fr.; Hôtel de France, Rue Grand-Pont,
less expensive; Hôtel Fromentin, Rue de l'Impératrice; Hôtel du
Commerce, Rue du Bec; de Normandic, Rue du Bec 13; du Grand
Vatel, Rue des Carmes 70. — Restaurants: *Heurteventand and Jacquinot,
both in the Petite Provence on the quay. — Cafés: Hugnot, on the quay,
near the Exchange; Café de la Place de Notre Dame, near the
Cathedral, etc. — Omnibus: from the station to the town 40 c., luggage
20 c.; several different lines traverse the city. — Voitures: 1 fr. 25 c. per
drive, luggage 50 c.; per hour 1½ fr. — The "Confitures", for which Rouen
is celebrated, may be purchased of Célestin Magné, Rue des Carmes. —
English Church Service in the chapel at Sotteville at 11, a. m., and in the
French Protestant Church, Place St. Eloi.)

Rouen, formerly the capital of ancient Normandy, now of the
Department of the Seine Inférieure, with a population of 102,649

Rouen

exclusive of the suburbs, is of all the cities of France the richest
in mediæval architecture. The ancient houses (Maisons Normandes)
with their quaint wooden façades are however unfortunately
rapidly disappearing, and the picturesque aspect of the
city has been considerably marred by modern improvements. It
is, moreover, of great importance on account of its cotton factories,
and has not inaptly been termed the Manchester of
France. Rouen is likewise one of the principal depôts of the
wines of Bordeaux, which are conveyed hither by small sea vessels
on the Seine. As in ancient times, this city and its environs
are still renowned for their superior breed of horses, as
well as for the robust stature of the inhabitants, who furnish the
French army with some of its finest troops

The city is bounded on the S. by the Seine, which is here
upwards of 300 yds. in breadth and separates Rouen from the
suburb of St. Sever (20,000 inhab.). By the windings of the
river Havre is about 100 M. distant. (Steamboats descend in
8 hrs., a picturesque though somewhat tedious journey.)

The other sides of the city are bounded by the boulevards,
which resemble those of Paris, though of course less animated. The
ancient ramparts and fortifications successfully resisted the attacks
of Henry V. of England (1415) and Henry IV. of France (1591).
The suburbs without the boulevards are occupied principally by
the manufacturing portion of the population. The following walk
will be found to comprise the most interesting points of the city,
arranged in a convenient order, commencing with the river on
the S. side.

The Seine is here crossed by two bridges which unite Rouen
with St. Sever. The Pont d'Orléans, the upper of these bridges,
constructed of stone (1829), crosses from St. Sever to the lower
extremity of the Ile Lacroix, where the statue of Corneille (by
David d'Angers), a native of Rouen (d. 1684), is situated, and
thence to Rouen. The street opposite to the bridge, recently
constructed by the demolition of a labyrinth of old houses, leads
to the Place St. Ouen.

Farther down the river is situated the Grand Pont or Pont
Suspendu (toll 1 c., carriage 15 c.), a suspension bridge (1836),
which affords an admirable survey of the river with its forest of
masts, the streets flanking the quays, behind which rises the
cathedral, and the numerous manufactories of St. Sever.

The "Petite Provence", an avenue of trees opposite to the
suspension bridge, is adorned with a statue of the eminent composer
Boieldieu (d. 1834), who was a native of Rouen. Farther
W. is the Bourse, which a small public garden adjoins, and beyond
it the Quai du Havre, the Douane and Post-office. This is one
of the pleasantest and most animated portions of the town.

From the suspension-bridge a line of streets (Rue Grandpont,
Rue des Carmes, Rue Beauvoisine) leads to the Boulevard Beauvoisine,
intersecting the entire city from S. to N Here the best
shops are situated. The new and important Rue de l'Impératrice,
to make room for which many of the ancient and narrow lanes
have been demolished, extends from the quay below the suspension-bridge,
passing the church of St. Vincent, the Marché
Neuf with the adjacent Palais de Justice, the Jardin de Solferino
and the Tour du Donjon or de Jeanne d'Arc, to the Boulevards
near the railway-station.

At the extremity of the Rue Grandpont the traveller arrives
at the Cathedral; thence to the right by the Rue des Bonnetiers
to the church of St. Maclou, and by the Rue Impériale to St. Ouen,
which may be regarded as the architectural gem of Rouen. The
Hôtel de Ville is contiguous to St. Ouen, after a glance at which
the traveller should visit the Musée des Antiquités in the Rue
Beauvoisine, near the boulevards.

Thence to the Palais de Justice, Tour de la Grosse Horloge,
Place de la Pucelle, Hôtel du Bourgtheroulde and back to the quay.

The entire walk may be accomplished in the course of one
morning; the evening may be devoted to the ascent of Mont
Ste. Catherine or Bon Secours (p. 219).

The *Cathedral (Notre Dame, Plan 1), the principal portions
of which date from 1207—80, is one of the grandest Gothic edifices
in Normandy. The central portal of the W. façade, towards
the Place du Parois Notre Dame, was erected by Cardinal d'Amboise,
the favourite minister of Louis XII., at the commencement
of the 16th cent., and profusely decorated in the florid style.
The sculptures above the entrance represent the genealogy of
Christ; to the left the beheading of John the Baptist, to the
right the Virgin and saints.

The two towers of the façade are of unequal height. The
Tour de Beurre, the loftier and more beautiful, derives its appellation
from having been erected with the money paid for indulgences
to eat butter during Lent. It once contained one of
the largest bells in the world, melted down during the first revolution.
A few fragments were sent to the Mint at Paris, where
they were employed in striking medals with the inscription:
"Monument de vanité, détruit pour l'utilité, l'an II. de l'égalité".
The central spire, over the transept, was burned down in 1822,
having been ignited by lightning, and is replaced by a most unsightly
tower of cast iron, 460 ft. in height, which sadly mars the
exterior of the church. A spiral staircase ascends to the summit.

The portals by which the transept is entered, dating from the
15th cent., are more chaste in style than the above mentioned.
The Portail des Libraires, to the N., so termed from the booksellers'
stalls which formerly occupied the court in front of it,

is the more beautiful and deserves particular attention. The
sculptures represent the Last Judgment. The Portail de la Calendre,
by which the church is entered on the S., is adorned with
sculptures from the history of Joseph. The hanging figure is
popularly believed to be that of a usurer, put to death in this
manner for having employed false weights and measures, and
whose property was confiscated and expended in the construction
of this portal. The figure is, however, doubtless intended to represent
Pharaoh's baker.

The interior of the church (440 ft. in length and 90 ft. in height) is
in the early pointed style, and possesses three fine rose windows in the
nave and transepts. A tier of small arches, placed between the columns
which separate the nave from the aisles, is intended to give stability to
the structure, but somewhat detracts from the grandeur of the effect.

The last chapel on the S. side of the nave contains the tomb of Rollo
(d. 927), first duke of Normandy, the corresponding chapel on the N side
that of his son William, "Longue Epée" (d. 943); the figures, however, are
probably not earlier than the 13th. cent. A modern screen separates the
choir from the nave. The carving of the stalls dates from 1467, the stained
glass from the 13th cent.

The Chapelle du Christ, contiguous to the high altar, contains an ancient
mutilated figure in limestone, 6½ ft in height, of Richard Cœur de
Lion (d. 1199), discovered in 1838. His heart, which was interred in the
choir, was found at the same time, and is now preserved in the museum.
Its original resting-place in the choir is indicated by a small marble tablet
with a Latin inscription.

To the right in the Chapelle de la Vierge is the magnificent *Monument
of Cardinal George d'Amboise and his nephew, who was likewise a cardinal.
It was executed in 1525 in black and white marble; under a richly decorated
canopy are the figures of the cardinals in a kneeling posture; in
niches are placed figures of the 12 Apostles and beneath are the cardinal
virtues.

To the left is the handsome *Monument of the Duc de Brézé (d. 1530),
grand seneschal of Normandy, erected by his wife, the celebrated Diana
of Poitiers (d. 1566), mistress of Henry II. Above is an equestrian statue
of the duke; beneath, on a sarcophagus of black marble, he is represented
as an emaciated corpse. At his head kneels his disconsolate widow in
an attitude of prayer, at his feet stand the Virgin and Child. The inscription:

contains a deviation from the truth, for the "most faithful wife" was interred
in the château of Anet, where she died. The monument is attributed
to the celebrated Huguenot sculptor Jean Goujon (p. 55). The altarpiece,
representing the Adoration of the shepherds, is by Ph. de Champaigne.

*St. Maclou (Plan 2), "un diminutif de St. Ouen", as it has
not inaptly been termed, is a fine specimen of the florid style of
the 15th cent. The central tower over the transept is a graceful
structure, although incomplete. The sculptures which adorn the
three portals are admirably executed. The wooden doors are remarkable
for their exquisitely carved reliefs from biblical subjects,
ascribed to Jean Goujon. The beautiful spiral staircase near the
W. entrance is also deserving of inspection.

**St. Ouen (Abbaye de St. Ouen; Pl. 3), one of the most exquisite
Gothic edifices in the world, far surpasses the cathedral
in extent and in chasteness of style. It was founded in 1318;

the choir, chapels and transept were completed 21 years later,
and the nave and tower towards the close of the 15th cent. The
original plan having been followed throughout, the entire edifice
exhibits a rare harmony of design. The tower over the transept,
270 ft. in height, is surmounted by an octagonal superstructure
with flying buttresses and turrets at the angles, a remarkably elegant
specimen of open-work. The whole is terminated by a
crown of fleurs-de-lis, the so-called "Couronne de la Normandie".
The summit commands a fine prospect. — The towers of the
W. facade have recently been judiciously completed, although not
in strict harmony with the rest of the edifice. The sacrilegious
outrages committed by the Huguenots (1562) and the republicans
(1793) have also been carefully repaired, and the church is now
one of the few perfect Gothic structures on the continent.

The S. "Portail des Marmousets", so called from the figures
of the animals with which it is adorned, merits the most minute
inspection. The reliefs above the door represent the death and
assumption of the Virgin.

The proportions of the interior (445 ft. in length, 83 ft. in
breadth and 110 ft. in height) are distinguished by their graceful
elegance. The walls appear to be almost superseded by the numerous
(120) windows, all of which are filled with stained glass.
The unusually lofty triforium is exceedingly beautiful. In the
nave and transepts are three fine rose-windows, also filled with
stained glass.

Around the choir are situated eleven chapels, which the
verger (1½ fr.) opens, and whence several fine views of the
interior of the edifice are enjoyed.

Alexander Berneval, the architect of this noble church, is interred
in the Chapel of St. Agnes, the second on the N. side (to
the left) in the choir. Tradition alleges that in a fit of jealousy
he killed his apprentice who in the execution of the rose-window
of the N. transept had surpassed his master in skill.

In the rear of the church and the adjoining Hôtel de Ville a
pleasant garden is situated, to which the public have access. The
Chambre aux Clercs, a Norman tower of the 11th cent., is contiguous
to the church on this side, and probably formed a portion
of an earlier edifice which once occupied the same site. St. Ouen
(d. 678), to whom the church is dedicated, was archbishop
of Rouen.

The Hôtel de Ville (Pl. 4), on the N. side of the church,
was formerly within the precincts of the monastery of St. Ouen.
The building is in the Italian style, with a row of Corinthian
columns. The Picture Gallery (entrance to the r. at the end of
the gallery on the second floor; open to the public on Sundays
and Thursdays, to artists and strangers daily at the same hours;

on the staircase the recumbent statue of the painter Guéricault,
who was born here and died in 1824) contains little to interest
the visitor. No. 301. The Virgin with saints and angels, in the
great gallery, deserves mention as a fine picture of the old German
school, ascribed to Memling. Adjoining the museum is the
Library, open daily from 11 to 4 and from 6 to 9 o'clock,
Sundays and Thursdays excepted, which contains upwards of
110,000 vols. and a collection of MSS., among which are several
valuable miniatures. In front of the Town Hall rises the Equestrian
Statue of Napoleon I. by Vital-Dubray. The metal consists
of cannons captured at Austerlitz. A relief at the back represents
Napoleon visiting the workmen in the suburb St. Sever
in 1802.

The *Musée des Antiquités (Pl. 5), situated in the cloisters
of an ancient convent, in the Rue Beauvoisine, is an extremely
interesting collection. Admission daily from 12 to 4; at other
times for a fee of 1 fr.

It contains numerous interesting relics found in Normandy. Of the
Roman period: sarcophagi and a large, freely restored mosaic representing
Orpheus. The collection of mediæval curiosities is especially valuable.
Documents of Richard Cœur de Lion with his seals, model of St. Maclou;
a small glass box containing the relics of Richard's "lion" heart; shrine
of St. Sever in the form of a Gothic chapel, adorned with silver statuettes,
dating from the 12th cent., formerly in the cathedral; five reliefs in marble
representing the Final Judgment; a number of coins. Casts of the reliefs
in the Hôtel du Bourgtheroulde (p. 218); weapons; documents with signatures
of celebrated persons, among which is one bearing the sign (a cross)
of William the Conqueror; the door of Corneille's house etc. Then a collection
of fayence-articles manufactured at Rouen, where the art formerly
flourished. The museum contains such a vast number of interesting objects
which cannot here be enumerated, that a catalogue is almost indispensable.
The fifteen windows are filled with stained glass from different
secularized monasteries. The Cabinet of Natural History, in an adjoining
building, is also a creditable collection.

The Tour du Donjon, or de Jeanne d'Arc, in the Rue de
l'Impératrice, is the last remnant of a citadel erected by Philip
Augustus in 1205, where Joan of Arc was afterwards imprisoned.

St. Godard (Pl. 6), between the Rue de l'Impératrice and the
Rue Beauvoisine, contains two fine stained glass windows of the
16th cent.

St. Patrice, situated to the W. of the Rue de l'Impératrice,
erected in 1535, merits a visit on account of the rich stained
glass it contains.

The *Palais de Justice (Pl. 7), in the late florid style, resembles
the handsome council halls of Belgian towns, although
less lofty. The central portion of the edifice and the projecting
pavilions form an entrance-court, enclosed by a railing. The left
wing, the Salle des Procureurs, erected in 1493, is a spacious
and lofty hall with an open roof, and once served as an exchange.
The central part was erected under Louis XII., six years later, for
the Cour de l'Echiquier of Normandy, the supreme tribunal in

ancient times, subsequently under Francis I. termed "parliament".
Here the assizes are now held. The residence of the former presidents
of the parliament, situated in the rear of the Palais, has
been converted into another court of justice. The portress (50 c.)
conducts visitors through the different apartments.

In the vicinity rises the Tour de la Grosse Horloge or
Beffroi (belfry), contiguous to and deriving its name from the
clock-gateway erected in 1527. Several of the houses in this
narrow, but extremely picturesque street (Grand' Rue) merit inspection.

Farther to the W., near the Theatre (Pl. 9), is the Place de
la Pucelle, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431.
About 24 years later she was declared innocent of the crime of
witchcraft by a papal bull, and the French, who it is well known
had been her betrayers, being now masters of Rouen, erected a
cross to her memory on the spot where she suffered. The place
is now occupied by a paltry figure over a fountain.

The adjoining Hôtel du Bourgtheroulde (Pl. 10), which is
here entered by a gateway, was erected by a M. de Bourgtheroulde
at the close of the 15th. cent. in the style of the Palais
de Justice. The court contains a number of reliefs in marble,
one of which represents the interview of the rival monarchs on
the "Field of the Cloth of Gold". The graceful hexagonal tower
is decorated with sculptures from biblical subjects.

Descending hence to the quay of the Havre steamboats, and
skirting the entire length of the wharf towards the E, the traveller
will reach *Mont Ste. Catherine (380 ft.), which rises at the
extremity of the city, immediately beyond the Champ de Mars.
The summit is occupied by a few fragments of the fortress which
Henry IV. captured from the troops of the League under Marshal
Villars, and caused to be demolished. The ascent occupies
½ hr. The view is extensive and embraces the city with its
numerous towers and chimneys, the course of the river, the railway
and the animated and industrial environs.

A still finer prospect may be enjoyed from the recently constructed
pilgrimage church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours, or
*Bon Secours as it is usually termed, situated on the lofty bank
of the river, 2 M. from Rouen. The view comprises the entire
city, the course of the river for many miles above and below
Rouen, and in the distance the rich and verdant pastures of
Normandy.

A delightful excursion may be taken to La Bouille, 15 M.
below Rouen, by the local steamboat starting at 6 a. m. and returning
at 2 p. m. The right bank of the Seine is bounded by precipitous
chalk-hills and studded with picturesque country residences
and parks, whilst the left bank consists of rich meadows and
pasturage.

La Bouille (Hôtel de la Rénaissance) is a small but animated
town, where several important high roads unite. The Château
de Robert le Diable, the scanty ruins of which occupy the summit
of a hill in the vicinity, affords a charming prospect of the
wooded mountains, portions of the valley of the Seine with its
white chalk-hills, and in the distance Rouen with the cathedral.

Passing by means of three tunnels under the Boulevards
St. Hilaire and Beauvoisine and Mont Ste. Catherine, the train
crosses the Seine, affording a beautiful view of Rouen to the right.
To the left, on the Côte, or hills which rise from the river, is
situated the church of Bon Secours. At Sotteville, the first station,
the English church is situated. Tourville is the station for
Elbeuf, 6 M. distant, a cloth-manufacturing town of considerable
importance.

Near Oissel the Seine is again crossed, and is recrossed beyond
Pont de l'Arche above the influx of the Eure. Between St. Pierre
de Vauvray and Villers (Louviers in the vicinity is a town with
extensive cloth-factories) the train penetrates the chalk hills by
means of two tunnels.

Near Les Andelys, 3 M. distant from the line, rise the ruins
of the castle of Gaillard, erected by Richard Cœur de Lion to
protect the Duchy of Normandy against the incursions of the French
kings. It was afterwards employed as a state-prison. Here in
1314 the infamous Margaret of Burgundy, consort of Louis X.,
was strangled by order of her husband. The castle was demolished
by Henry IV. at the same time with other castles of Norman
barons who were disaffected to the French supremacy.

The station of Gaillon is situated opposite to the village of
Courcelles. The château of Gaillon, erected in 1500, was one
of the finest in Normandy and the favourite residence of Francis I.
The lofty façade has been transferred to the court of the Ecole
des Beaux Arts in Paris. The castle is now employed as a
prison.

The conspicuous tower of Vernon, once a strongly fortified
town, was erected in 1123 by Henry I. of England. Here in
1198 Philip Augustus of France sought refuge when conquered
by Richard Cœur de Lion. The château of Bizy in the vicinity was
once the property of Louis Philippe.

The tunnel between Bonnières and Rolleboise cuts off the wide
circuit which the river here describes.

Rosny possesses a château where Sully (d 1641), the celebrated
minister of Henry IV., was born in 1559. It was subsequently
the property of the Duchess of Berry who resided in it
from 1818 to 1830.

The picturesque town of Mantes is memorable in history as
the place where William the Conqueror was so severely injured

by a fall from his horse that he soon afterwards died at Rouen.
The lofty towers of the Gothic church of Notre Dame and
of St Maclou are conspicuous objects in the town. The line
continues to skirt the banks of the Seine and frequently commands
fine views.

Poissy, the next station of importance, was the birthplace of
St. Louis, who frequently styled himself "Louis de Poissy". Here
in 1561 a conference was assembled by order of the States General,
with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman Catholic
and Protestant parties. The former was represented by 6 cardinals,
36 bishops and numerous doctors of theology, the latter by
Theodore Beza, the friend of Calvin, Peter Vermigli of Florence,
professor of theology at Strasbourg, and other reformers. Their
deliberations, however, led to no result owing to the intervention
of the Sorbonne, the celebrated theological faculty of Paris, by
whose influence and strong condemnation of the Calvinists the
proceedings were terminated. — The cattle-market of Poissy is
the most important in France, and together with Sceaux supplies
the whole of Paris. It will, however, probably soon be transferred
to the metropolis.

Conflans, at the confluence of the Seine and Oise, lies to the
left. The train now traverses the forest of St. Germain (p. 189).
At Maisons-Laffitte the Seine is again crossed. The château was
formerly the property of the Comte d'Artois (Charles X.). It was
afterwards presented to Marshal Lannes by Napoleon, and finally
purchased by M. Laffitte the financier.

Near Bezons the line recrosses the Seine and at Colombes
unites with the St. Germain railway. St. Germain with its palace
is a conspicuous object on an eminence to the right.

The Seine is crossed for the last time at Asnières, near which
the lines to Argenteuil and Versailles diverge. The train now
passes Clichy and intersects the fortification of Paris; on emerging
from a short tunnel under the Place de l'Europe it reaches
the station in the Rue St. Lazare. Conveyances, see p. 1.

42. By Southampton, Havre and Rouen.

By Railway to Southampton in 3 hours; by Steamboat to Havre
daily, generally at 11. 45 p. m. (see advertisements in the "Times" or
"Bradshaw") in 9½—10 hrs.; by Express from Havre to Paris in 5 hrs.;
by ordinary trains in 7½ hrs.; omnibus from the quay to the station at
Havre not incl. in the fare. Single tickets, available for 4 days 28 s.
and 20 s.; return-tickets available for one month, 50 s. and 36 s. Luggage
may be registered direct to Paris. — This "cheap and picturesque" route
as it is styled in the advertisements, is one of the pleasantest in summer.

By Steamboat from London to Havre direct twice a week (see
advertisements of General Steam Navigation Company), average passage,
incl. 5—6 hrs. in the Thames, 16 hrs.; fares the same as above.

Le Havre. Hôtels: Frascati, opposite the beach, bathing-place;
*de l'Amirauté, Grand Quai 43; Hôtel du Louvre and des

Le Havre.

Indes, both in the Grand Quai; de l'Europe, Rue de Paris; de
Normandie, Rue de Paris, moderate. — Cafés: *Reinart, Place du
Spectacle; Guichard, Place Napoléon III.; du Siècle, well supplied with
newspapers; Alcazar, Chaussée d'Ingouville, a concert every evening. —
Omnibus to the station 30 c. — Voiture 1 fr. 25 c. per drive. —
English Church, Rue d'Orléans; American, Rue de la Paix), formerly
termed Havre de Grâce from the chapel of Notre Dame de Grâce
founded by Louis XII. in 1509, was fortified by Francis I. in
1516, and is now the harbour for Paris and one of the most
important sea-ports of France (80,130 inhab.). The buildings,
as well as the commercial prosperity of the town, are of very
recent origin. Its situation at the mouth of the Seine is extremely
advantageous.

The Rue de Paris, intersecting the town from N. to S., is the
centre of traffic. The handsome Hôtel de Ville is a modern edifice,
situated in the Place Napoléon III. with its Jardin Public.

The original fortifications have been demolished, but the town
and harbour are commanded by new forts erected on the heights
of Ingouville and Ste. Adresse (p. 222).

The extensive docks are capable of containing 500—600 vessels
of considerable tonnage, which can enter the harbour during
3—4 hrs. every tide. The Retenue de la Floride is a large basin,
by means of which, with the aid of a series of sluices, the accumulation
of the deposits of the Seine at the mouth of the harbour
is prevented. This basin is connected with the spacious
Bassin de l'Eure, constructed in 1846—1856, where the huge
Transatlantic steamers lie. Extensive operations are still in
progress for the improvement and fortification of the harbour.

Next to Marseilles Havre is the most important sea-port of
France, and is frequented annually by about 6829 vessels of an
aggregate tonnage of 1,269,000. The average annual value of
the exports is 729 million fr., that of the imports 541 million.
The import duties amount to about 50, the export to 60 million fr.

Opposite the Bassin de Commerce is situated the Theatre,
erected in 1825, and considerably enlarged since a fire by which
it was greatly damaged in 1843.

Here, in 1796, Admiral Sir Sidney Smith, in an unsuccessful
attempt to capture a French vessel, was stranded on the shallows
of the estuary of the Seine and taken prisoner by the French.

Opposite to the harbour rises the Musée, in front of which
are statues by David d'Angers of Bernardin de St. Pierre (author
of "Paul et Virginie" to which the reliefs refer) and Casimir
de la Vigne, the dramatist, both natives of Havre.

The *Museum (open on Thursdays and Sundays 10—4 o'clock,
at other times for a gratuity) contains several saloons with stuffed
animals, among which is a whale stranded near Havre, a room
with casts, a collection of pictures, and the Casimir Delavigne

Gallery, dedicated to coins, statuettes and antiquities. The same
building also contains a Library.

The *Jetée, or pier, near the Hôtel Frascati, commands a
fine view; to the right rises the precipitous Côte d'Ingouville
with its two lighthouses, to the left in the distance the coast of
Honfleur, on the opposite side of the estuary. Numerous boats
here afford the visitor an opportunity of enjoying an excursion
by water.

As Havre itself contains little to interest the traveller, those
who have a few hours at their disposal are recommended to ascend
the eminence on which Ingouville, a town with 12,000 inhab.,
is situated. Since the removal of the ramparts of Havre, Ingouville
and Graville, another contiguous town, are now united with
Havre, and contain numerous and handsome villas and gardens.
The *view from the lighthouse which occupies the summit of the
hill, 1½ M. distant from the harbour of Havre, comprises the
town with its forest of masts, the estuary of the Seine, to the
S. W. in the distance the Rochers de Calvados, celebrated for their
oyster-beds, and to the N. the promontory of La Hève with its
two lighthouses.

Havre being a convenient point of embarcation for the New
World, shoals of emigrants are here periodically encountered.

Honfleur (Cheval Blane; Dauphin), a remarkably picturesque
fishing-town, situated on the opposite bank of the estuary of the
Seine (by steamboat in 40 min.), with a population of 9553,
affords a delightful summer residence. (Railway in 6—8 hrs. to
Paris by Lisieux, a station on the Paris and Cherbourg line.)
The *Côte de Grace commands a magnificent prospect. The church
of Ste. Catherine contains two pictures of some merit by Quellyn
and Jordaens.

Ste. Adresse (Hôtel des Bains, concerts during the season;
Hôtel à la descente des Phares), delightfully situated a short distance
to the N.E. of Havre, and sheltered from the N. winds,
annually attracts a considerable number of visitors.

Trouville-sur-Mer (Hôtels: de la Mer; de Paris; d'Angleterre;
de la Plage; *du Bras d'Or et de la Poste, in the Rue des Bains.
pens. 6 fr. per diem, excl. of breakfast and wine; attendance 10 fr. per month),
situated about 10 M. to the S.W. of Honfleur (by railway in 30
min.; by steamboat from Havre in 1 hr.), is now a fashionable
watering-place, frequented by Parisians of the highest class
(5200 inhab.). The Salon de Trouville (subscription 6 fr. per week)
contains apartments devoted to balls, concerts, reading and play.

The railway station at Havre is near the Cours Napoleon, not
far from the Bassin Vauban. On quitting the station the traveller
will observe Graville, with its interesting church of the 11th cent.,
on the high ground to the left.

Harfleur, once an important sea-port, is now entirely superseded
by Havre. Its harbour has, moreover, been completely
filled up by the deposits of the Lézarde, which here falls into
the Seine. In 1405 the town was taken by Henry V. of England,
to whom the foundation of the church is attributed. It is a fine
Gothic edifice, although in a sadly dilapidated condition.

Nointot is the station for Bolbec, a flourishing industrial town
with a population of 10,000.

Yvetot is another manufacturing place with 9000 inhabitants,
the ancient counts or soi - disants kings of which, are thus described
by Béranger (d. 1857) in his usual playful manner:

Passing several unimportant stations, the train now quits the
undulating and fertile table land (400 ft. above Rouen) of the
Pays de Caux, as this district is termed, and descends to the
lofty viaduct of Barentin, 1600 ft. in length, the highest arch of
which is upwards of 100 ft. above the level of the valley. Shortly
afterwards a tunnel, 1½ M. in length, is entered, on emerging
from which the train soon reaches Malaunay, where the Dieppe
line diverges. From this point to Rouen, and Paris, see pp. 212—221.