University of Virginia Library

36. St. Germain-en-Laye.

Railway-station (Rue St. Lazare 124) and omnibus see p. 23. Trains
start from Paris every hour from 8.30 a. m. to 8.30 p. m., from St. Germain
every hour from 8 a. m. to 8 p. m., also at 10 and 11 p. m. on
Sundays and holidays; time of journey 42 min.; fares, diligence 1 fr.
50 c., wagon 1 fr. 25 c.; return-tickets at a reduced rate. — There are
also two omnibus routes, one by Nanterre, the other by Bougival, the
latter very agreeable and recommended to those whose time is not limited.

The first portion of the route as far as Asnières, where the
line to Versailles diverges to the left, is described at p. 168.

Nanterre, the following station, is a village where tradition
alleges that Ste. Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris, was born
in 425.

The château of Malmaison, not visible from the line, situated
in the wood to the left, 1½ M. from the Station of Rueil, was
the residence of the Empress Josephine after her divorce (1809).
Here she died in 1814, and was interred in the small church of

Rueil, which is also remarkable for its Saxon architecture. The
lateral chapels of the choir contain the monuments of the empress
and Queen Hortense. The former, erected by Eugène Beauharnais
and Queen Hortense, executed by Cartellier, represents
the empress in a kneeling posture and bears the inscription. "A
Joséphine, Eugène et Hortense, 1825". The monument to Queen
Hortense is of similar design and bears the inscription: "A
la Reine Hortense, son fils Napoléon III." After the battle
of Waterloo Napoleon retired to the château of Malmaison, but
on the approach of the Prussian troops from Argenteuil and
Chatou quitted it, June 29th, 1815. In 1842 the château became
the property of Queen Christina of Spain, who resided in it for
several years, and in 1861 it was repurchased by the present
emperor.

As the train proceeds, the arches of the aqueduct which
supplies the fountains of Versailles are perceived on the summit
of the wooded hills to the left.

Near Chatou the line crosses the Seine, which is here divided
into two arms by an island, and beyond Le Vésinet again reaches
the river, whence it ascends a considerable incline to St. Germain.

St. Germain-en-Laye is a quiet town (14,283 inhab.) of
similar origin with Versailles. It is indebted for its foundation
to the Palace, a large, gloomy edifice, constructed principally of
brick, in the vicinity of the railway-station, and once the favourite
residence of Francis I., Henry II., Henry IV., Charles IX. and
Louis XIV.

It was finally quitted by the last-named monarch, who presented
it to Madame de Montespan and transferred his residence
to Versailles. Napoleon I. converted the palace into a school for
cavalry-officers. Subsequently it served as a military prison, and
is now destined for the reception of a museum of Gallo-Roman
antiquities. The church, situated in the Place du Château facing
the palace, contains a handsome monument in white marble,
erected by George IV. of England to the memory of James II.,
who during his exile resided in the palace and died there in
1701. The monument has recently been restored by order of
Queen Victoria.

The principal charm of St. Germain consists of the *Terrace,
which extends for upwards of 1½ M. along the E. slope of the
hill at a considerable elevation above the Seine, and commands
a magnificent prospect of the valley, the winding river and the
animated plain. At the base of the hill is situated the village
of Le Pecq, to the right Marly, the aqueduct (see above) and
Louveciennes, once the country residence of Madame Dubarry,
and in the distance the towers of St. Denis. Paris itself is concealed
from view by Mont Valérien.

The beautiful and extensive forest of St. Germain is preserved
in admirable order and affords abundant shade and retirement.
The animated Fête des Loges which takes place in the forest on
the first Sunday in September and the two following days, derives
its name from Les Loges, a country residence erected by Anne
of Austria, consort of Louis XIII. The railway to Rouen traverses
the forest. (One-horse carr. 2 fr. per hour, on Sundays 2½ fr.,
two-horse carr. 50 c. more).

The elevated and salubrious situation of St. Germain render
it a favourite summer residence of the Parisians, as well as of a
number of English families.

At the S. extremity of the terrace is situated a pavilion commanding
a magnificent view, alleged to have been the birth-place
of Louis XIV., now converted into a *restaurant, 5 minutes' walk
from the railway-station. (Charges at the restaurants in the town
more moderate; adjoining the station *Galle.)

Omnibus (1¼ fr.), three times daily to Versailles by Marly,
in 1 hour.