Paris and northern France :: :: University of Virginia Library

One of the most conspicuous objects in Paris is the lofty
dome of the Église des Invalides, situated at the S. W. extremity
of the city and distinctly visible from every part of it; from a
distance the basement appears to be formed by the extensive
Hôtel itself, which, however, is detached from the church.

By a decree of April 15th, 1670, Louis XIV. founded this
splendid institution, "pour assurer une existence heureuse aux militaires
qui, vieillards mutilés ou infirmes, se trouveraient sans ressources
après avoir blanchi sous les drapeaux ou versé leux sang
pour la patrie". The structure was commenced in 1671, under
the superintendence of the talented architect Libéral Bruant, and
completed in 1675.

Soldiers disabled by wounds and those who have served for
30 years are entitled to be received into the establishment. The
present number of inmates considerably exceeds 2000, of whom
about 170 are officers. In case of necessity, however, the institution
can accommodate 5000 persons. Besides board and lodging,
each inmate receives a small monthly pension, a colonel 30 fr.,
a major 20 fr., a captain 10 fr., lieutenants and corporals 5—3 fr.,
privates 2 fr. A loaf of excellent white bread and a bottle of
good wine are daily distributed to all inmates alike. On Sundays
at 12 o'clock military mass is performed in the church, at half
past 12 a parade with military music is held in the Cour d'Honneur
(p. 156).

The gate of the court, which is surrounded on three sides
by dry moats, 18 ft. in breadth, is approached by the Esplanade
des Invalides, a double avenue, about 270 yds. long. The sentinels
of the gate are posted in the two guard-houses at the entrance.

A "Batterie Trophée" of eighteen guns is here placed and employed
periodically in firing salutes on grand occasions. To the
right (facing the Seine) are two French 24-pounders, which in
1837 were employed in the siege of Constantine; two Austrian
cannons, one cast in 1681, the other in 1580, with the inscription
in German: When my song resounds in the air, many a wall
will fall before me"; four Prussian guns, decorated with the images
and names of four Electors; a Dutch 24-pounder, captured at

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the siege of Antwerp in 1832; four cannons and two howitzers
from Sebastopol; a mortar from Algiers. To the left: the first
gun is from Wirtemberg, a master piece of its kind, and is decorated
with allegorical statuettes and one of the Duke; a Venetian
piece, of 1708; the remaining pieces correspond to those on the
r. side.

The remaining portion of the terrace is laid out in small
gardens, which it is the privilege of the "invalides" to cultivate;
several of them are adorned with small statues of Napoleon I.,
whose memory is still fondly cherished by the veterans who survive
him.

The Front of this handsome edifice, with its three pavilions,
is upwards of 600 ft. in length. At the corners of the lateral
pavilions are placed four groups in bronze, by Desjardins, emblematic
of four conquered nations (Burgundy, Germany, Spain,
Holland), formerly appertaining to the statue of Louis XIV. in
the Place des Victoires, but transferred to their present position
in the year 1800.

The building consists of three stories; the dormer-windows
are curiously constructed of military trophies in stone, surmounted
by helmets. On the tympan above the entrance is an equestrian
statue of Louis XIV., with the inscription: Ludovicus Magnus
militibus, regali munificentia in perpetuum providens, has œdes
posuit 1675.

In the large inner court with its open arcades, formerly termed
the Cour Royale, now Cour d'Honneur, the visitor is met by an
invalide (1 fr. gratuity) who conducts them through the courts and
external portions of the establishment. Different guides (50 c.
each) are appointed to show the dining-hall, kitchen, council-chamber
and library. The kitchen and dormitories are similar to
those of large barracks. On public days visitors are admitted
gratuitously to every portion of the establishment.

The Library, founded by Napoleon, contains about 30,000 vols.
and several MSS. of Sully and Colbert, a copy of David's picture
of Bonaparte crossing the St. Bernard, a fine portrait of Napoleon
III. by Logier, an equestrian statuette of Marshal Turenne
and the Austrian cannon-ball which caused his death near BadenBaden
in 1675; also a large plan in relief of the Hôtel des
Invalides.

The vestibule of the Council-chamber (Salle du Conseil) is
adorned with drawings of flags and banners captured in battle
and of the arms of French towns. The adjoining apartments
contain portraits of the two architects of the edifice, Libéral
Bruant and Jules Mansard, and of the following marshals: Lannes,
Bessières, Berthier, Brune, Augereau, Masséna, Victor, Lefebvre,
Kellermann, Beurnonville, Davoust, Pérignon, Duc de Coigny,
Serrurier, Suchet, Gouvion St. Cyr, Ney, Jourdan, Moncey, Oudinot,

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Lauriston, Duc de Belle Isle, Duc de Broglie, Marquis de
Vioménisl; also a portrait of Napoleon I. in his coronation robes,
one of Louis XIV., and busts of Napoleon I., Napoleon II. and
Prince Jérôme.

The four spacious Refectories on the ground-floor are adorned
with allegorical pictures, most of which have reference to the war
of Louis XIV. in the Netherlands (1672). Among others are
those representing the capture of Wesel, Emmerich and Utrecht,
towns which were not in a position to defend themselves and
surrendered almost without a blow. Most of these paintings are
by Martin, a pupil of the prolific Van der Meulen. The plate
used at the officers' table was presented by Marie Louise.

Patients in the Infirmerie are waited upon by 25 sisters of
charity (Sœurs de l'ordre de St. Vincent de Paul).

The Church at present consists of two separate portions, the
Ancienne Église (Église de St. Louis, église des soldats) and the
Église nouvelle (Dôme des Invalides), the latter constructed by
Jules Mansard in 1706. When united, as is intended, the former
church will form the nave, the latter the choir.

The old church is entered by a portal on the S. side of the
Cour d'Honneur. It consists of a long nave and two low aisles,
and is adorned with a number of banners, most of which were
captured during the African war under Louis Philippe. The last
flag to the r., with the double eagle, is from Sebastopol, the
white one opposite once waved on the Malakoff tower.

During the reign of Napoleon I. nearly 3000 flags adorned
the nave. On the evening before the entry of the allied troops
into Paris (March 30th, 1814), they were burned in the court
to prevent their falling into the hands of the allies, by order of
Marshal Clarke (Duc de Feltre), at that time minister of war.
The order was thrice given before the Invalides could be induced
to destroy their cherished trophies. On the same occasion the
sword which Napoleon brought from the tomb of Frederick the
Great at Potsdam in 1806 was destroyed. On Aug. 12th, 1851,
on the occasion of the funeral obsequies of Marshal Sebastiani,
several of the remaining flags were accidentally destroyed by fire.

Several monuments and memorial tablets on the pillars are
inscribed with the names of former governors of tho Hôtel des
Invalides: Comte de Guibert (d. 1786), Duc de Coigny (d. 1821),
Marshal Lobau (d. 1838), Marshal Moncey (d. 1842), Marshal
Oudinot (d. 1847) with medallion bust Baron Espagnac (d. 1782),
Marshal Jourdan (d. 1833). Two bronze tablets record the names
of those marshals and officers whose remains repose in the vaults
of the church, among others that of Marshal Mortier, who was
killed in 1835 by the explosion of Fieschi's infernal machine in
the Boulevard du Temple, and Marshal "Jacques Leroy de St. Arnaud,
chef de l'armée de l'Orient, décédé en mer à bord du Ber-

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tollet" (d. 1854). On Sundays at noon mass is celebrated here,
accompanied, by the usual Roman Catholic military ceremonies.

The Dôme des Invalides consists of a square mass, 180 ft. in
breadth, surmounted by a lofty dome, above which rises a gilded
globe and cross, the summit of which is 320 ft. above the pavement.

On either side of the high altar winding staircases descend
to the entrance of the crypt which contains the *Tomb of Napoleon
I. (Admission to the Dôme and the tomb on Mondays
and Thursdays from 12 to 3; no gratuity need be given.) The
crypt consists of a circular excavation 20 ft. in depth and 36 ft.
in diameter; the walls are of polished slabs of granite, adorned
by ten marble reliefs by Simart: 1. Restoration of public order;
2. The Concordate; 3. The reformed Administration; 4. State-council;
5. The Code; 6. The University; 7. Chamber of finance; 8. Encouragement
of commerce and industry; 9. Public works; 10. The
Legion of Honour. The twelve colossal figures emblematic of
victory were one of the last works of the celebrated Pradier
(d. 1852); between them are six trophies consisting of 60 flags
which had long lain concealed in the Luxembourg. On the pavement
are recorded the names of the victories of Rivoli, Pyramides,
Marengo, Austerlitz, léna, Friedland, Wagram, Moskowa.

From the centre of the wreath of laurels in mosaic with which
the pavement is decorated rises the sarcophagus: the cover
consists of a huge monolith of reddish brown granite, weighing
upwards of 60 tons, and exquisitely polished. This ponderous
block was brought from Lake Onega in Finland; the
cost of the transport alone is said to have exceeded 140,000 fr.
Immediately above the crypt, at a height of 150 ft., rises the lofty
dome, consisting of two cupolas, the higher of which is adorned
with a painting by Delafosse, representing St. Louis receiving
from Christ the sword with which he vanquished the foes of
Christianity. The faint, bluish light admitted from above, and
the sombre aspect of the crypt and its adjuncts contribute essentially
to the solemn grandeur of the scene.

The entrance to the vault from the back of the high altar in
the old church consists of a bronze gate flanked by two sarcophagi,
on which are inscribed the names of Duroc and Bertrand,
the emperor's faithful friends. The former fell at the battle of
Bautzen in 1813, the latter (d. 1844) was the emperor's constant
companion in all his campaigns and in his captivity, and accompanied
his remains from St. Helena in 1840 to their final resting-place
in the Dôme des Invalides.

Above the entrance are inscribed these words from the emperor's
will: "Je désire, que mes cendres reposent sur les bords
de la Seine, au milieu de ce peuple français que j'ai tant aimé."

To the right and left of the entrance stand two colossal caryatides
in bronze, designed by Duret, one of which bears a globe,

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the other a sceptre and crown. They are intended to proclaim
"par leur aspect grandiose et imposant, la sainteté du lieu où
l'on va descendre, et semblent destinées à la garde silencieuse
et éternelle du tombeau qui renferme les restes précieux du
plus grand capitaine des temps modernes".

The monuments of Vauban and Turenne with their recumbent
effigies, the former erected in 1807, the latter removed hither
from St. Denis, are situated in the transepts near the S. entrance,
but sink into insignificance when compared with the profoundly
impressive tomb of Napoleon.

The principal façade of the church is to the S., towards the
Place Vauban, where it is intended to erect statues of Napoleon I.
and twelve of his marshals.

In the vicinity of the S. entrance to the Dôme des Invalides
is situated the École Militaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XV.,
"pour y élever 500 gentilshommes dans toutes les sciences nécessaires
et convenables à un officier". In 1792 it was fitted up
as barracks (for 5000 men and 800 horses). From 1804 to 1830
the Guards were stationed here, and the edifice is still employed
as barracks and the seat of the general staff of the new Imperial
Guard.

In front of the École Militaire, to the N.W., extends the
Champ de Mars (site of the Exhibition of 1867), a large
open space upwards of 1000 yds. in length and 700 yds. in
breadth, surrounded by rows of trees, employed as an
exercising-ground, for reviews etc. It was formerly (till 1861)
enclosed by ditches and embankments, in the formation of
which no fewer than 60,000 Parisians of both sexes assisted in
the year 1790. The embankments were then furnished with
rows of seats, thus enabling hundreds of thousands of the
people to witness the celebrated Fête de la Fédération which took
place on July 14th of the same year. In front of the École
Militaire was erected the Autel de la Patrie, where the king, the
national assembly, the provinces and the representatives of the
army swore fidelity to the new constitution. Talleyrand, Bishop
of Autun, with 400 of the clergy, officiated in the religious portion
of the ceremony. The rejoicings on this occasion were universal,
as it was believed that the troubles of the revolution were now
happily terminated.

A similar festival, the famous Champ de Mai, was celebrated
with the utmost pomp by Napoleon, June 1st, 1815, and was
attended with the same formalities. Here too, August, 1830,
Louis Philippe presented colours to the National Guard, and in
1852 the present emperor distributed to the army the Eagles
which were to replace the Gallic Cock.

All the principal military reviews and parades are held in
the Champ de Mars, when the ground is kept clear.

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These occasions afford the stranger a convenient opportunity
of seeing some of the most illustrious personages and officers of
the highest rank in France. The best point of observation is the
Pont d'Jéna, on the side nearest to the left bank of the river,
as the staff of officers usually cross this bridge, or ride past it
after having crossed by another route. Those who desire to witness
the reviews will find ample space along the margin of the
ground. The ordinary drill generally takes place on Fridays.

The races of the French Jockey Club, "Courses encouragées
par l'État", formerly took place here in September. They are
now held on the new race-course of Longchamps and in the forest
of Vincennes. Races also take place at La Marche (beyond Ville
d'Avray, p. 169), at Versailles, and at Chantilly, Department of
the Oise, stat. St. Leu on the Northern railway.

On the Quai d'Orsay (Nr. 63), a short distance below the
Pont des Invalides, two statues on which represent Navigation
and Peace, rises the extensive Manufacture Impériale des
Tabacs, occupying the entire block between the Rue St. Jean,
the Rue de l'Université and the Boucherie des Invalides. It is
accessible on Thursdays only, 10—12 and 2—4 o'clock; visitors
ring at the principal entrance, where a flag usually hangs. The
arrangements of the establishment are interesting. About
18—1900 operatives are here employed, of whom 1400 are
women; the latter, when industrious, earn 2½ fr. per diem on
an average.

There are altogether 17 Imperial manufactories of tobacco in
France, all of which are dependent on that of Paris. They yield
an annual revenue of 180 million fr.