54. In New Jersey
BY A GENTLEMAN (1756)
THE province of New Jersey, of which I come now
to give you some description, has been settled a little more
than a hundred years. It is as well cultivated as any of the
colonies, yet is in a careless condition,
or at least seems so to one who has not seen newly settled
places.
The farms which lie interspersed in the bosom of
thick woods, resemble the face of the sky after a tempest,
when the clouds are breaking away and dispersing. The
pleasantest spots that you see here are but homely beauties.
Almost everywhere you pass upon the roads, you are either
in woods, or have woods on one side of you. And the view
which is on the open side is terminated by trees within the
breadth of a field or two. So that the horizon is hardly any
where clear, and to view the country from an eminence it
seems to be almost all woods.
The roads in most places are very good, but then you travel in a
maze. You have neither milestone nor Mercury for your direction. Only
here and there is a tree marked with the initial letter of the name of
the next town, but so ill cut that one can hardly know it to be an
alphabetical character.[201] A few scattered
houses make here a village. And in those towns where the buildings stand
in line they are not near together.
The people are naturally brisk and of a lively temper. They
stand much upon a footing of equality with each other.
Those of the common sort by conversing freely with persons
in office acquire a knowledge of things and business. Thus
they receive a brightening by which they are far superior to
our country men of the same rank.
Religion is here divided into many sects and parties. The
men who are extremely kind husbands go commonly the way
of the wife in this matter.
The poor people in general live better here than in most
places, I believe. This is because of the plenty
and cheapness of provisions. They are able to place their
children in good families by the time they are six or seven
years of age, and they have little experience of what it costs
to bring them up. So that very few of them turn beggars, or
go to seek their bread from home: if they do go, they carry
their working tools upon their backs.
You must certainly think that thefts and robberies
cannot but be rife among us, as these colonies are obliged to
take all the rogues and villains that are yearly transported
from the several jails in England. But I can assure you it is
far otherwise. People think so little of the danger of these
things that many families never fasten their doors when they
go to bed. And the good housewives that have cloth in
bleaching never take it in at nights. As to picking of pockets,
the practice is utterly unknown, and the roads are perfectly
uninfested and secure.
But the wonder of this will evaporate when I tell you that none
of the Newgate gentry[202] are landed here,
but always either in Virginia or some of the southern colonies, where
however they are no calamity. For the masters of the transports make
them all bind themselves to him by indenture for four
years.[203] Thus they are obliged to honest
labor.
The spring here is commonly late, but when the year does
begin to dress, the ornaments of Nature are out all at once.
In a few days the scene is quite changed. The vast orchards
are clad in a thick bloom which makes the country look and
smell like paradise.
The country is well watered with fine streams and rivers, and
every house has a well. The woods, though abounding with
very beautiful birds, are the
dullest of all sylvan scenes. The mocking bird is the mimic of them all,
and a complete joker in his way.
Nothing is so beautiful and diminutive as that little
feathered spark, the humming bird, who with the most
gallant address courts the daughters of the garden in a coat
of plumage composed of the finest feathers.
In summer time for about two months the air is bespangled
every night with a kind of flies which they call fire-flies.
They abound in swamps and woods of a wet soil. In those
gloomy places they make an extraordinary appearance.
Their light is not steady; and in the silent night, hovering
about in their bright form they almost give the mind an
impression of a haunted place.
[[202]]
Newgate was a prison in London. "Newgate gentry"
were convicts.
[[203]]
That is, the convicts and other bad characters
have to agree to serve a master for four years after landing.