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Bucaniers of America:

containing the dangerous voyage and bold attempts of Captain Bartholomew Sharp, and others; performed upon the coasts of the South Sea, for the space of two years, &c. from the original journal of the said voyage
  
  
  
  

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 VIII. 
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 XI. 
 XII. 
 XIII. 
CHAP. XIII.
 XIV. 
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 XVII. 
 XVIII. 
 XIX. 
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 XXI. 
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 XXV. 

  
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CHAP. XIII.

A continuation of their long and tedious Voyage to
Arica, with a description of the Coasts and
Sailings thereunto. Great hardship they endured
for want of Water and other Provisions.
They are descryed at
Arica, and dare not land
there; the Country being all in Arms before
them. They retire from thence, and go unto

Puerto de Hilo, close by Arica. Here they land,
take the Town with little or no loss on their side,
refresh themselves with Provisions; but in the
end are cheated by the
Spaniards, and forced
shamefully to retreat from thence.

ON September the Ninth we continued still to make a
S. W. by S. way, as we had done the day before. By
a clear and exact observation taken the same day, we found
now Lat. 8. d. 12 S. All the twenty four hours last past

Calms.
afforded us but little wind, so that we advanced but as little
on our Voyage, and were forced to tack about every
four or five hours.

The next day by another observation taken, we found
then Lat. 9 d. 00. Now the weather was much warmer

Warm weather
again.
than before; and with this warmth we had small and misty
rains that frequently fell. That evening a strong
breeze came up at S. E. by E.

The night following likewise we had a very great dew
that fell, and a fresh wind continued to blow. At this
time we were all hard at work to make small sails of the

They make sails
at Sea.
Osenbrigs we had taken in the last Prize, as being much

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more convenient for its lightness. The next morning being
Saturday September the 11th, we lay by to mend our
rigging. These last twenty four hours we had made a
S. by W. way. And now we had an observation that gave
us Lat. 10. D. 9. S. I supposed this day that we were
West from Cosmey about the distance of eighty nine leagues
and an half.

September the 12th. This day we reckoned a S. S. W.
way; and that we had made thirty four leagues and three
quarters or thereabouts. Also that all our Westing from
Paita was eighty four leagues. We supposed our selves
now to be in Lat. 11. D. 40. S. But the weather being hasey,
no observation could be made.

September the 13th, yesterday in the Afternoon we had

A great Eclipse
of the Sun.
a great Eclipse of the Sun, which lasted from one of the
clock till three after dinner. From this Eclipse I then took
the true judgment of our longitude from the Canary Islands,
and found my self to be 285 D. 35. in Lat 11 D.
45 S. The wind was now so fresh, that we took in our
Top-sails; making a great way under our Courses and
Sprit-sail.

September the 14th we had a cloudy morning, which

what followed
it.
continued so all the first part thereof. About eight it cleared
up, and then we set our fore-top-sail; and, about
noon, our main-top-sail likewise. This was observable,
that all this great wind precedent did not make any thing
of a great Sea. We reckoned this day that we had run
by a S. W. by W. way, twenty six Leagues, and two
thirds.

The next day, in like manner, we had close weather,
such as the former morning. Our reckoning was Twenty
four Leagues and two thirds, by a S. W. by W. way. But,
by observation made, I found my self to be 23 D. Southward
of my reckoning, as being in the Lat. of 15 D. 17
South.

On the 16th, we had but small and variable winds.
For the twenty four hours last past we reckoned twenty


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four leagues and two thirds, by a S. W. by S. way. By observation
we had Lat. 16. D. 41. That evening we had a
gale at E. S. E. which forced us to hand our top-sails.

The 17th likewise, we had many gusts of wind at several
times, forcing us to hand our top-sails often. But in
the forenoon, we set them with a fresh gale at E. S. E. My
reckoning this day was thirty one leagues by a S. S. W.
way. All day long we stood by our top-sails.

On the 18th, we made a S. by W. way. We reckoned
our selves to be in Lat. 19. D. 33. S. The weather was
hasey; and the wind began to dye this day by degrees.

The next day, being the 19th, we had very small wind.
I reckoned thirteen leagues and an half, by a S. W. by S.
way; and our whole Westing from Paita to be 164
leagues in Lat. 20. D. 06. S. All the afternoon we had a
calm, with drizling rain.

Monday, September the 20th. Last night we saw the
Magallan Clouds, which are so famous among the Mariners

Magallan
Clouds.
of these Southern Seas. The least of these clouds was about
the bigness of a mans hat. After this sight, the morning
was very clear. We had run at noon at E. S. E thirteen
leagues and an half: and, by an observation then
made, we found Lat. 20. D. 15. S. This day the wind began
to freshen at W. by S. Yet notwithstanding we had a
very smooth Sea.

But on the next morning, the wind came about to S.W.
and yet slacken by degrees. At four this morning it came
to S. by E. And at ten the same day, to S. E. by S. We
had this day a clear observation, and by it Lat. 20. D. 25.
S. We stood now E by N. with the wind at S. E.

September the 22d. This morning the wind was at
E. S. E. By a clear observation we found Lat. 19. D. 30
S. Likewise on a N. E. by E. way, ——— and two leagues
and two thirds.

September the 23d we had a fresh wind, and a high Sea.
This morning early the wind was at E. and about ten at
E. N. E. From a clear observation we found our latitude


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to be 20 D. 35 S. The way we made was S. by W. That
morning we hapned to split our Sprit-sail.

Next morning the wind was variable and inconstant,
and the weather but hasey. We reckoned a S. by E. way:
this day we bent a new main-top-sail; the old one serving
for a fore-top-sail. In the afternoon we had but little wind,
whereupon we lowered our top-sails; having, in like manner,
a very smooth sea.

The following day likewise brought us calm and warm
weather; which occasioned us to set up our shrouds both
fore and aft. An observation taken this day afforded us
Lat. 21. D. 57. That evening we bent a sprit-sail.

On September the 26th, an observation gave us Lat. 22.
D. 05. S. At noon we had a breez at N. N. E. our course
being E. S. E. In the afternoon we set up a larboard topsail
studden-sail. In the evening the wind came about at
North pretty fresh.

The next day we had a smooth sea, and took in four
studden-sails. For yesterday in the afternoon we had put
out, besides that above-mentioned, another studden-sail,
and two main studden-sails more. This day we had by
observation 22 D. 45 S. having made by an E. S. E. way,
thirty-five leagues and an half. Our whole Merid. differ.
sixty eight leagues and an half.

September the 28th, all the sorenoon we had very little
wind, and yet withal a great Southern sea. By observation
we had Lat. 22 D. 40 S.

September the 29th. All the night past we had much

Much rain.
wind, with three or four fierce showres of rain. This was
the first that we could call rain, ever since that we left Cape
Francisco
above-mentioned. This day our allowance was
shortned, and reduced unto three pints and a half of water,
Their allowance
shotned
again.
and one cake of boyled bread to each man for a day. An
observation this day gave us Lat. 21 D. 59 S. by a N. E. by
E. way.

On September the 30th we had a cloudy day, and the
wind very variable, the morning being fresh. Our way


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was N. E. half N. wherein we made eighteen leagues.

October the First. All the night past and this day we
had a cloudy sky, and not much wind. We made a N. E.

Their allowance
still shortens.

by E. way, and by it seventeen leagues and two miles.
This day we began at two pints and a half of water for a
day.

The Second, we made a E. N. E. way, and by it twenty
six leagues, more or less. Our observation this day gave
us Lat. 20 D. 29 S. I reckoned now that we were ten
leagues and an half to East of our Meridian, the Port of
Paita; so that henceforward our departure was Eastward.
The wind was this day at S. E. by S.

On the Third we had both a cloudy morning, a high
sea, and drizling weather. An observation which we had
this day, gave us Lat. 19 D. 45 S. In the afternoon the
wind blew so fresh, as that we were forced to hand our topsails
and sprit-sail.

The 4th likewise we had a high sea and a cold wind.
At break of day we set our top-sails. An observation made
afforded us Lat. 19 D. 8 S. Here we supposed our selves
fifty nine leagues D. M.

The 5th we had still a great sea, and sharp and cold
winds, forcing us to our low sails. By a N. E. by E way,
we reckoned this day twenty six leagues and an half.

But on the 6th we had great gusts of wind. Insomuch,
that this morning our ring-bolts gave way which held our
Main-stay, and had like to have brought our Main-mast by

Their Mainmast
in danger.
the board. Hereupon we ran three or four glasses West
before the wind. By an observation we found Lat. 19 D.
4 S.

On the 7th of October the wind was something fallen.
We had both a cloudy day and variable winds.

The 8th of the said Month we had again a smooth sea,
and small whiffling winds. This morning we saw a huge

Water-snakes
and Seals.
shoal of fish, two or three Water-snakes, and several Seals.

On the next day we had in like manner a very smooth
sea, and withal a cloudy day. Our course was East.


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October the Tenth, we had likewise a cloudy day, with
small and variable winds, and what is consequent unto
these, a smooth Sea. Our way was S. by E. This day

Tufts of seagrass.

we espied floating upon the Sea, several Tufts of Sea-grass,
which gave us good hopes that we were not far from shoar.
In the afternoon we had a N. E. by E. wind that sprangup.
the night was very cold and cloudy.

On the eleventh we had a fresh wind at S. E. and E. S. E.
together with a cloudy day; such as we had experimented
for several days before. We reckoned this day thirty two
Leagues by a N. E. by E. way. Here our Pilot told us, that

A Hasey sky
near shoar.
the sky is always hasey nigh the shoar upon these Coasts
where we now were.

On October the 12th we had a clear day, and a NorthEast
way.

A Whale seen.
The 13th we had but little wind. This day we saw a
Whale, which we took for an infallible token that we were
not far distant from Land, which now we hoped to see in
a few days. We made an E.S.E. way, and by it we reckoned
nineteen Leagues. All the evening was very calm.

Thursday October the 14th we had both a calm, and
close day until the afternoon. Then the weather became

Land-Fowles
sten.
very hot and clear. This day we saw several land-Fowls,
being but small Birds. Concerning which our Pilot said,
that they use to appear about one or two days sail from
the Land. Our reckoning was eleven Leagues by an E.S.E.
way. In the evening of this day we thought that we had
seen Land; but it proved to be nothing else than a foggy
bank.

October the 15th, both the night past, and this day, was
very clear. We made an observation this day, which gave
us Lat. 18 d. 00 South.

The 16th, last night and this day were contrary to the
former, both cloudy. Our way was N. E. by E. whereof
we reckoned thirteen Leagues.

They desery
land.
Sunday October the 17th the wind blew very fresh, our
course being E. N. E. About five that morning we saw

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Land; but the weather was so hasey, that at first we could
scarce perceive whether it was Land or not. It was distant
from us about eight Leagues, and appeared as a high and
round hill, being in form like unto a Sugar-loaf. We saw
Land afterwards all along to the S. E. by E. from it. In
the evening, we being then within five Leagues of the
shoar, the Land appeared very high and steep.

October the 18th, all the night last past we stood off to
sea with a fresh wind. This morning we could just see
Land at N. N. E. We reckoned a S. E. by E. way; and by
observation we found Lat. 17 d. 17 South.

Tuesday October the 19th, we had very cloudy weather,

High-lands
near
Arica.
finding what our Pilot had told us to be very true, concerning
the haseyness of this shoar. We saw all along as
we went very high Land, covered with Clouds; insomuch,
that we could not see its top.

On Wednesday the next day, we had likewise cloudy
weather, and for the most part calm. The same weather
being very cloudy, as before, continued in like manner on
Thursday.

Friday October 22. this morning we saw the Land plain

Punta de Hilo.
before us. Our Pilot being asked what Land that was, answered,
it was the Point of Hilo. At N.N.E. and about six
or seven Leagues distance it appeared thus unto us.

[ILLUSTRATION]

Punta de HILO.

Lat. 18. d. 4. S.

There is every morning and evening a brightness over
the Point, which lasteth for two or three hours, being
caused by the reflection of the Sun on the barren land, as


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it is supposed. This day we had but little wind; and the
Great want of
water.
huge want of water we were now under, occasioned much
disturbance among our men. As for my part, I must acknowledge
I could not sleep all night long through the
greatness of my drougth. We could willingly have landed
here to seek for water; but the fear of being discovered
and making our selves known, hindred us from so doing.
Thus we unanimously resolved to endure our thirst
for a little longer space of time. Hereabouts is a small
Current that runneth under the shoar. This morning
we had but little wind at South, our course being E S. E.
The Point at the distance of five leagues N. E. looketh on
the following side, thus:

[ILLUSTRATION]

Punta de HILO.

Our wind continued to blow not above six hours each
day. We reckoned the difference of our Meridian to be
this day one hundred and eighty leagues. Very great was

Half a pint a
day.
our affliction now for want of water; we having but half
a pint a day to our allowance.

October the 23d. This day we were forced to spare one
measure of water, thereby to make it hold out the longer;
so scarce it became with us. At three this afternoon the
Point looked thus:


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Page 91
[ILLUSTRATION]

Punta de HILO.

Mora de SAMA.

Here the Point looketh like unto an Island. And Mora
de Sama,
to the Southward thereof, giveth this appearance:

[ILLUSTRATION]

Mora de SAMA.

About nine of the clock at night we had a land wind, and
with it we stood S. E. by S. But all the night after we had
but little wind.

October the 24th. All the night past we had very cloudy
and dark weather, with mizling rain. The morning
being come, it cleared up; but all the land appeared covered
with clouds. Yet notwithstanding in the afternoon it
gave us again this appearance.


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[ILLUSTRATION]

Mora de SAMA.

Lat. 18 d. 29 S.

Under the Hill of Mora de Sama are eighteen or nineteen
white cliffs; which appear in the form above descri-

They resolve to
land.
bed. This day we resolved that One hundred and twelve
men should go ashoar. And about eight this evening, we
sent our Lanch and four Canoas, with fourscore men, to
take three or four Fisher-men at a certain River, close by
Mora de Sama, called el Rio de Juan Diaz, with intent to
gain what intelligence we could how affairs stood at present
on the Coast and Country thereabouts.

Munday October the 25th. Last night being about the
distance of one league and an half from shoar, we sounded,
and found forty five fathom water, with an hard ground
at the bottom. This morning our people and Canoas that

They cannot
find the River.
were sent to take the Fishermen, returned, not being able
to find either their houses or the River. They reported
withal, they had had a very fresh wind all the night long under
shoar, whereas we had not one breath of wind all night
on board.

Tuesday October the 26th. Last night, being the night
before this day, about six of the clock, we departed from
the ship to go to take Arica, resolving to land about the

They dare not
land at
Arica.
distance of a league to windward of the Town. We were
about six leagues distant from the Town when we left our
ship, whereby we were forced to row all night, that we
might reach before day the place of our landing. Towards
morning, the Canoa's left the Lanch, which they had had all

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night in a Tow, and wherein I was; and made all the speed
they possibly could for the shoar, with design to land before
the Lanch could arrive. But being come nigh the
place where we designed to land, they found, to our great
sorrow and vexation, that we were descryed; and that all
along the shoar, and through the Country, they had certain
news of our arrival. Yet notwithstanding our discovery, we
would have landed, if we could by any means have found
a place to do it in. But the sea ran so high, and with such
a force against the rocks, that our boats must needs have
been staved each in one thousand pieces, and we in great
danger of wetting our arms, if we should adventure to go on
shoar. The Bay all round was possessed by several parties
of horse; and likewise the tops of the hills, which seemed
to be gathered there by a general alarm through the whole
Country, and that they waited onely for our landing, with
design to make a strong opposition against us. They fired
a gun at us, but we made them no answer, but rather returned
to our ship, giving over this enterprize until a fairer
opportunity. The hill of Arica is very white, being occa-
Hill of Arica.
sioned by the dung of multitudes of Fowls that nest themselves
in the hollow thereof. To Leeward of the said Hill
lyeth a small Island, at the distance of a mile, more or less,
from the shoar. About half a league from that Island, we
could perceive six ships to ride at anchor: four of which
had their Yards taken down from their Masts; but the other
two seemed to be ready for sail. We asked our Pilot
concerning these ships, and he told us that one of them was
mounted with six guns, and the other with onely four.
Being disappointed of our expectations at Arica, we now
resolved to bear away from thence to the Village of Hilo,
They bare away
for
Hilo.
there to take in Water and other Provisions; as also to
learn what intelligence we could obtain. All that night
we lay under a calm.

On October the 27th in the morning, we found our
selves to be about a league to windward of Mora de Sama.
Yet notwithstanding the weather was quite calm, and we


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onely drived with the current at Leeward. The land between
Hilo and Mora de Sama formeth two several Bays,
and the Coast runneth along N.W. and S.E. as may appear
by the following demonstration. Over the land we could
see from our ship, as we drove the coming or rising of a
very high land, at a great distance far up in the Country.

October the 28th. The night before this day, we sent

They send away
men to land
there.
away our four Canoas with fifty men in them, to seize and
plunder the Town of Hilo. All the day was very calm,
as the day before.

The next morning about break of day, we had a fair
breeze sprang up, with which we lay right in with the

They arrive at
the
Port.
Port. About one in the afternoon we anchored, and the
Port lyeth thus, as is here described.

[ILLUSTRATION]

Port of HILO.

We cast anchor at the distance of two miles from the
Village: and then we perceived two flags, which our men

The Town taken.

had put out, having taken the Town, and set up our English
Colours. The Spaniards were retreated unto the hills,
and there had done the same. Being come to an anchor,
our Commander Captain Sharp sent a Canoa on board of
us, and ordered that all the men our ship could spare, should
come ashoar. Withal they told us, that those of our party
that landed the morning before, were met by some
horsemen on the shoar, who onely exchanged some few
volly's of shot with our men, but were soon put to flight.
That hereupon our forces had marched directly to the
Town, where the Spaniards expecting we would have landed
at first, made a breast-work, thirty paces long, of clay

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and banks of sand. Here, in a small skirmish, we hapned
to kill an Indian, who told us before he dy'd, that they
had received news of our coming, nine days ago, from Lima,
and but one day before from Arica. Having taken
the Town, we found therein great quantity of Pitch, Tar,
Oyl, Wine and Flower, with several other sorts of provisions.
We endeavoured to keep as good a watch as the Spaniards
did on the hills, fearing lest they should suddainly
make any attempt to destroy us.

On the next day, being October the 30th, we chose out
threescore men of them who were the fittest to march, a-

They search the
valley.
mong the rest; and ordered them to go up and search the
valley adjoyning and belonging to the Town. We found
the said valley to be very pleasant, being all over set with
Fig-trees, Olive-trees, Orange, Lemmon, and Lime-trees,
with many other fruits agreeable to the Palat. About four
miles up within the valley, we came to a great Sugarwork,
or Ingenio de azucar, as it is called by the Spaniards,
where we found great store of Sugar, Oyl, and Molossus. But
most of the Sugar, the owners had hidden from us in the
cane it self. As we marched up the vally, the Spaniards marched
along the hills, and observed our motion. From the
tops of the hills they often tumbled down great stones upon
us, but with great care we endeavoured to escape those
dangers, and but the report of one Gun would suddainly
cause them all to hide their heads. From this house, I
mean the Sugar-work above-mentioned, Mr. Cox, my self,
and one Cannis a Dutchman (who was then our Interpreter)
went unto the Spaniards with a flag of Truce. They
met us very civilly, and promised to give us fourscore
They agree
with the
Spaniards.

Beeves for the Ransom of the Sugar-work, and upon condition
that it should not be spoilt nor demolished. With
them we agreed, that they should be delivered unto us at
the Port, the next day at noon. Hereupon Captain Sharp
in the evening sent down unto the Port twenty men, with
strict orders that our forces there should offer no violence
in the least unto those that brought down the Beeves.


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Sunday, October the 31st. This day being employed in
casting up some accounts belonging to our Navigation, I
reckoned that Hilo was to the Eastward of Paita, one hundred
eighty and seven leagues. This morning the Captain
of the Spaniards came unto our Commander Captain
Sharp, with a flag of Truce; and told him, that sixteen
Beeves were already sent down unto the Port, and that the
rest should certainly be there the next morning. Hereupon
we were ordered to prepare our selves to retreat, and
march back unto the Port, and there embark our selves on
board our ship. My advice was to the contrary, that we
should rather leave twenty men behind to keep the house
of the Sugar-work, and that others should possess themselves
of the Hills, thereby to clear them of the Spaniards
and their look out. But my counsel not being regarded,
each man took away what burthen of Sugar he pleased, and

They begin to
nd double
dealing in the
enemy.
thus we returned unto our vessel. Being come there, we
found no Beeves had been brought down at all, which occasioned
us much to suspect some double dealing would in
the latter end be found in this case.

The next morning being November the first, our Cap-

A parly with
the enemy.
tain went unto the top of the Hills afore-mentioned, and
spoke with the Spaniards themselves, concerning the performance
of their agreement. The Spaniards made answer,
that the Cattle would certainly come down this night.
But in case it did not, that the Master or Owner of the
Sugar-work was now returned from Potosi, and we might
go up and treat with him, and make, if we pleased, a new
bargain for the preservation of his House and Goods;
whose interest it was, more than theirs, to save it from
being demolished. With this answer our men returned
unto us, and we concluded to expect until the next day for
the delivery of the Beeves.

On the following day about eight in the morning, there

A flag of truce
came in unto us a Flag of Truce from the enemy, telling
us, that the winds were so high, that they could not drive
the Cattle, otherwise they had been delivered before now.

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But withal, that by noon we should in no manner fail to
have them brought unto us. Noon being come, and no
Cattle appearing, we now having filled our water, and
finished other concerns, resolved to be revenged on the
Enemy, and do them what mischief we could; at least, by
setting fire on the Sugar-work. Hereupon, threescore
They burn the
Sugar-work.
men of us marched up the valley, and burnt both the
House, the Canes, and the Mill belonging to the Ingenio.
We broke likewise the Coppers, Coggs, and multitudes of
great Jars of Oyl that we found in the house. This being
done, we brought away more Sugar, and returned unto the
Port over the Hills or Mountains; the which we found to
be very pleasant, smooth, and level after once we had ascended
them. It fell out very fortunately unto us that we
returned back this way we did, for otherwise our men at
the Sea-side had inevitably been cut off and torn in pieces
by the enemy, they being at that time dispersed and stragling
up and down by two and three in a Party. For from
Three hundred
Horse coming
against them.
the Hills we espied coming from the Northward of the
Bay, above three hundred horsemen, all riding at full speed
towards our men, who had not as yet descryed them, and
little thought of any such danger from the enemy so nigh
at hand. Being alarumed with this sight, we threw down
what Sugar we had, and ran incontinently to meet them,
thereby to give our other men time to rally, and put themselves
into a posture of defence. We being in good rank
and order, fairly proffered them Battle upon the Bay; but
as we advanced to meet them, they retired and rid towards
the Mountains to surround us, and take the Rocks from
us if possibly they could. Hereupon, perceiving their intentions,
we returned back and possest our selves of the said
Rocks, and also the lower Town; as the Spaniards themselves
did of the upper Town (at the distance of half a mile
from the lower) the Hills and the Woods adjoyning thereunto.
The Horsemen being now in possession of these Quarters,
we could perceive, as far as we could see, more and
more men resort unto them, so that their Forces encreased

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hourly to considerable numbers. We fired one at another
as long as we could reach, and the day would permit. But
in the mean while we observed, that several of them rid
unto the Watch-hill, and looked out often to the Sea-board.
This gave us occasion to fear, that they had more strength
and Forces coming that way, which they expected every
minute. Hereupon, least we should speed worse than we
They are forced
to retreat.
had done before, we resolved to imbark silently in the dark
of the night, and go off from that Coast where we had
been so early descryed, and the enemy was so much prepared
against us. We carryed off a great Chest of Sugar,
whereof we shared seven pound weight and a half each
What they got
at
Hilo.
man; thirty Jars of Oyl, and great plenty of all sorts of
Garden Herbs, Roots, and most excellent Fruit.