University of Virginia Library

CHAP. XVII.

HAving ended our attempt at Arica, the next day, be-

ing January the last, we plyed to and fro in sight of
the Port, to see if they would send out the three ships we
had seen in the Harbour to fight us. For upon them we
hoped to revenge the defeat and disappointment we had
received at the Town the day before. But our expectations
in this point also were frustrated, for not one of those
vessels offered to stir.

The houses of this Town of Arica are not above eleven

foot high, as being built of earth, and not of brick or
timber. The Town it self is foursquare in figure, and
at one corner thereof standeth the Castle, which may easily
be commanded even with small Arms, from the hill
which lyeth close unto it. This place is the Embarcadero,
or Port-Town of all the Mineral Towns that lye hereabouts,
and hence is fetched all the Plate that is carryed to
Lima, the head-City of Peru. I took the Bay of Arica as
it appeared to me thus.

[ILLUSTRATION]

On Tuesday February the first, we had a clear observation,
and by it we found Lat. 19 d. 06. South. This day

we shared the old remains of our Plate, taken in some of
our former booties. Our shares amounted only unto thirty
seven pieces of Eight to each man.

N. B. Here I would have my Reader to take notice, that
from this day forwards, I kept no constant Diary or Journal,
as I had done before, at least for some considerable space of
time, as you shall see hereafter; my disease and sickness at Sea
being the occasion of intermitting what I had never failed to
do in all the course of this Voyage till now. Only some few
Memorandums, as my weakness gave leave, I now and then
committed to paper, the which I shall give you as I find them,
towards a continuance of this History. Thus:

Munday February the 14th, this night between eleven

add twelve of the clock dyed on board our ship William
Cook, who was the servant afore-mentioned unto Captain
Edmund Cook, of whom likewise mention hath been often
made in this Journal. He desisted not in the least, even
at his last hour, to accuse his Master of Buggering him, as
before was related. Moreover, that his Master should
say, It was no sin to steal from us, who thought it none to rob the
Spaniards.

February the 16th, 1680. this day we found our selves
to be in Lat. 27 d. 30 South. We had a constant breeze at
S. E. and S. S. E. till we got about two hundred Leagues
from land. Then at the Eclipse of the Moon, we had a

a calm for two or three days: and then a breeze at North
for the space of two days; after which we had a calm again
for two or three days more.

March the first we found Latitude by observation 34 d.
01 South. At this time beginneth the dirty weather in

these Seas. We lay under a pair of courses, the wind being
at S. E. and E. S. E. with a very great Sea at S.S.E.

March the third, all hands were called up, and a Councel
held; wherein considering it was now dirty weather, and

late in the year, we bore up the Helm, and resolved to go
unto the Main for water, and thence to Leeward, and so
march over land towards home, or at least to the North
Sea. But God directed us from following this resolution,
as you shall hear hereafter. We being thus determined that
day, we stood N.E. with a strong wind at S.E. and E.S.E.

On March the fifth dyed our Coquimbo Indian. The seventh
we had a west-wind, our course being E. by N. The

eighth of the said Month we were put to an allowance,
having only one Cake of bread a day. March the tenth we
had a strong South-wind.

On March the 12th we fell in with the main land, something
to Leeward of Coquimbo. Within the Island of Pax-
aros are double lands, in whose Valleys are fires for the
melting of Copper, with which Metal these Hills abound.
Off to sea-board it is a rocky land, and within it is sandy.
About the distance of eight Leagues to Leeward is a rocky
point with several Keys or Rocks about it. About one
half mile to Leeward of this point turneth in the Port of

Guasco. Right against the anchoring are three Rocks, close
under the shoar.

Being arrived here, we landed on shoar threescore men
of our company, with design to get Provisions, and any
thing else that we could purchase. The people of the
Country ran all away as soon as they saw us. There was
building on shoar in this Port, a fire-Barque of sixteen or
eighteen Tuns burthen, with a Cock-boat belonging unto

it. We took one Indian Prisoner; and with him went up
the space of six or seven miles into the Country, unto an
Indian Town of Threescore or Fourscore houses. From
thence we came back unto the Church, which is distant four
miles from the Sea-side, and lodged there all night. Here
are multitudes of good Sheep and Goats in the Countrey
adjoyning to this Port, and it is watered with an excellent
fresh-water River; but the getting of water is very difficult,
the banks being very high, or otherwise inaccessible.
However, we made a shift to get in five hundred Jars of
water. Furthermore, we brought away one hundred and
twenty Sheep, and fourscore Goats, with which stock we
victualled our vessel for a while. As for Oxen, they had
driven them away farther up into the Countrey. The ju-
risdiction of Guasco it self is governed by a Teniente, or
Deputy-Governour, and a Fryar, and is in subjection unto the
City of la Serena above-mentioned, as being a dependance
thereupon. Here groweth both Corn, Pease, Beans, and
several other sorts of Grain; and for Fruits, this place is
not inferiour unto Coquimbo. Here we found likewise a
Mill to grind Corn, and about two hundred bushels thereof
ready ground; the which we conveyed on board our
ship. Every house of any account hath branches of water
running through their yards or courts. The Inhabitants
had hidden their Wine, and other best things, as Plate,
and Jewels, having descryed us at sea before our landing:
so that our booty here, besides Provisions, was inconsiderable.
However, we caught some few Fowls, and eat five
or six Sheep, and likewise a great Hog, which tasted very
like unto our English Pork. The hills are all barren, so
that the Countrey that beareth Fruit, is only an excellent
Valley, being four times as broad as that of Hilo abovementioned.
These people of Guasco serve the Town of
Coquimbo with many sorts of Provisions. We gave the
Indian whom we had taken his liberty, and I took the Port
of Guasco thus.

[ILLUSTRATION]

Tuesday March the 15th, 1680. This morning we de-

parted from the Port of Guasco aforementioned, with very
little wind, having done nothing considerable there, excepting
only the taking in the few Provisions above-related.
We were bent therefore to seek greater matters, having
experimented but ill success in most of our attempts hitherto.
On March the 20th, Moro de Horse, being high doubled
Land, and at E. by N. appeared thus unto us, in Lat.
24 d. South.

[ILLUSTRATION]

Moro de Horse.

Lat. 24 d. S.

At North, and at the distance of ten Leagues, more or
less, we saw the great and high hill of Morro Moreno, being
so called from its colour. It is a dark hill, but much higher
and bigger than the other afore-mentioned, and appeareth
like unto an Island, thus.

[ILLUSTRATION]

Morro Moreno.

Lat. 23 d. 30 S.

We had now very dark weather all along the Coast. On

March the 21 we were West from the Bay of Mexillones.
The point of this Bay one League upwards, representeth
exactly a Sugar-loaf.

March the 22. This day our Boat and Canoas went from
the ship, being well man'd, to find the River Loa. They
went also about two Leagues to Leeward of it, unto a fishing
village, but could find no place fit for landing; whereupon
they returned without acting any thing. The next
day another Canoa of our company went out upon the
same exploit, but found the same success. Yet notwithstanding,
here Sir Francis Drake watered, and built a Church,
as we were told by our Pilot. This Church is now standing
on the Sea-side by the River, whose mouth is now dry.
There are several Huts to windward of it; and from the
said Church or Chappel goeth a great path up the hills,
which leadeth to Pica.

On Thursday March the 24th, we found Latitude by
observation, 20 d. 10 South. This day also we saw Land,
at eighteen leagues distance more or less.

Sunday March the 27th, we saw Mora de Sama, and La
cumba at some distance. The same day we had an observation,
and found by it Lat. 18 d. 17 South. That evening
we departed from the ship with our Boats and Canoas,
towards the Coast of Hilo, upon which we now were.

We landed and took the village of Hilo undiscryed, they
scarce suspecting we could have any design upon that place
the second time. We caught the Fryar who was Chaplain
unto the Town, and most of the Inhabitants asleep, making
them prisoners at war. Here we heard a flying report, as
if five thousand English had lately taken Panama the second
time, and kept it. But this rumour, as it should seem, proved
to be a falsity. At this time the River came out, and
was overflown, it being near the time of the freshes. Here
the prisoners told us, that in Arica ten of our men were still
alive, whereof three were Surgeons, all the rest being dead
of their wounds. The Spaniards sent word unto Hilo, that
we had killed them seventy men, and wounded three times
as many of their Forces. But here the Inhabitants said,
that of forty five men sent to the relief of Arica from
hence, there came home but only two alive. We filled
what water we pleased here; but a small boat that we
brought from Guasco broke loose from us, and was staved to
pieces on the Rocks. Here we took eighteen Jars of wine,
and good store of new Figs. On Tuesday following we
went up to the Sugar-work, mentioned in our former expedition
against Hilo, and found all Fruits just ripe, and fit
for eating. There we laded seven Mules downwards with
Molossus and Sugar. The Inhabitants told us moreover,
that those men who came to fight us when we were here
the first time, were most of them Boys, and had only fifty
Fire-arms amongst them. They being commanded by an
English Gentleman who is Married at Arequipa. Likewise
that the owner of the Sugar-work afore-mentioned was
now engaged in a Suit at Law against the Town of Hilo,
pretending it was not the English who robbed him, and
spoilt his Ingenio, when we were there before, but the
Townsmen themselves. This day in the evening we sailed
from Hilo with dark weather, and little wind, which continued
for several days afterwards.