 | LETTER V. The pillar of fire, or, Israel in bondage |  |
5. LETTER V.
In my last letter I described to you, as well as
the feebleness of language would admit, my presentation
to the Queen Amense, and the splendors of her
court and palace. In Syria we have no approach to this
Egyptian magnificence, unless it is to be found in Tadmor,
the city of the Euphrates country, which travellers
call a single temple the size of a city! The peculiarity
of Egyptian architecture is very striking. It has an air
of ponderous majesty—being, in all its proportions, colossal.
Yet this massive aspect is relieved by shaping
the stone and marble in the most graceful lines, and enriching
with sculpture, either in relief or intaglio, the
immense surfaces of their gigantic columns and enormous
propyla. In all the temples and palaces I have
yet seen here, two species of column chiefly prevail—
one of which, this being the most ancient style, is fluted
and composed of a single shaft, with a capital in the
shape of an opening pomegranate, the reflexed edge
being an imitation of the opened flower of the lotus,
and presenting a graceful object to the eye. The other
column, introduced by the present dynasty, is always
which gives the mass the appearance of being
composed of united stems, and increased by horizontal
belts or bands cut in the stone, which seem to
tie them together under the capital and in the middle.
Just above the square or round plinth, the base of the
shaft itself is rounded and adorned with leaves, which
gives it the appearance of growing up from the plinth.
You can judge of the combined grandeur and grace of
such columns, dear mother, by imagining several buds
of the rose of Palestine set like cups, one upon the other,
and upon the top of all a lotus-flower, and the whole
magnified to ninety or a hundred feet in height, and
converted into Syene stone.
On the abacus of the columns, which form so prominent
and universal a feature in Egyptian architecture,
rests a broad but simple architrave, usually sculptured
with hieroglyphics illustrating subjects connected
with the deity of the temple, or the occupant of the
palace which they adorn. The upper edge of it is often
occupied by a row of the sacred serpent, uræus. The
boldness and breadth of the cornice supplies the want
of a pediment—flat roofs being used in this country,
when used at all, where rain is scarcely known, and
where snow was never seen.
The porticos and façades present double and triple
rows of columns, but seldom are they found on the sides
or around the temples, as at Damascus and Tadmor.
The circular arenas in the city, which I have described
in a former letter, were not temples but colonnades, and
these column-inclosed squares are the introduction of
Queen Amense, and are only found at On. Usually the
temples are quadrangles, with avenues of mighty columns
extending from pylon to pylon in a succession of inner
courts—these series of vast and magnificent vestibules
sometimes extending half a mile, their avenues bordered
by sphinxes and columns alternately, until the great
fane of the temple, to which they are the approach, is
reached.
For columns, I have seen in the temple of the sacred
ox-Mnevis, colossal figures of Osiris, or of sovereigns
with the attributes of Osiris. These Osiride pillars are
often thirty feet in height. Upon my mind they produce
an unpleasing effect. The impression is as if the
god was brought into the service of man as a slave, to
uphold his temples, though I believe they do not bear
any portion of the superincumbent weight. But one
cannot behold a row of these mighty men of stone without
an emotion of awe. The general tone of the temples
and palaces betrays the pyramid as their type.
The walls sloping on the outside as if the lower section
of a pyramid, give to the edifices of Egypt that expression
of self-reposing and immovable stability which belongs
to the pyramidal form. The whole effect is in the
highest degree sublime, and at once subdues and elevates
my mind as I gaze. The scale of architecture is
so vast, that even the innumerable sculptured objects
by which walls, columns, and entablatures are covered,
do not interfere with the grandeur of the whole
effect. Moreover, the heaviness which would adhere to
such massive edifices in Syria, disappears when they are
seen through the crystalline medium of this Egyptian
atmosphere.
There is another peculiarity, my dear mother, of Egyptian
architecture, which no one can contemplate without
an increasing impression of awe. I allude to the dromos,
or double row of sphinxes—figures of which I have
already spoken, and of which we have no idea in Syria,
though an Assyrian noble whom I met in Sidon, described
to me reposing colossi with majestic heads of
kings and bodies of lions, as guarding the approach to
the temples of the gods of his country. Such mysterious
compounds of the human form with a lion or a ram,
denoting the union of intellect with strength, are to be
encountered here before every temple. These avenues
of sphinxes, in profound repose and with a grave and
serious aspect, are usually entered through a lofty gateway
or pylon, before which are seated gigantic figures
of gods, or stand obelisks of granite, placed in pairs, and
richly and elaborately sculptured with hieroglyphics.
Through such a gateway and avenue, I approached the
city of On. A day or two ago I was in a temple dedicated
to the god Horus, son of Osiris and Isis. Upon the
pylon was inscribed a sun, supported by two asps with
outspread wings—the emblem of Hor-hat, the good
genius of Egypt—and hence to be found everywhere
represented. It is this which is erroneously called, by
some travellers, a winged globe. In the entrance, this
god was pictured with the head of a hawk (at once his
symbol and a type of the sun, from the piercing brightness
of its eye), as an actor in various scenes, both celestial
and terrestrial, such as hunting, sailing, and engaged
in war against Typhon, and others.
Passing these, I entered a spacious court, open to the
sky and surrounded by sculptured colonnades. Crossing
idly lounging in, I came to a second propylon, the magnificent
wings of which were divided into numerous
compartments, and sculptured ten stories high, with the
most exquisite art. This pylon, in the wings of which
the priests lodge, led into an open court one hundred
paces long, through the centre of which extended an
avenue of twenty-four columns, sixty-six feet high and
twelve in diameter, and on each side of these were seven
rows of lesser columns, forty feet in height and nine in
diameter. All these presented sculptured surfaces, and
the richest description of capitals. A still more magnificent
gateway, at the extremity of this street of columns,
conducted me into a vast hall with covered cloisters
on the sides, and a double row of colossal pillars
running down the centre. All the rest of the space was
paved and adorned with fountains, statues, and fruit and
flower trees, growing from large alabaster vases. Priests
and worshippers moved in all directions through this and
the other courts. The walls of this grand hall were
decorated with battle-pieces—the triumphs of the Pharaohs
in the conquest of neighboring kingdoms—representations
of offerings to the gods, and of captive
princes led at the wheels of chariots. I advanced to another
pylon, still loftier and more noble than the rest,
and as I looked back to the remote outer entrance, two
thousand feet off, I discovered that an artifice of architecture
had been employed to increase the apparent distance
by diminishing the gateways in height, as if by
the effect of a lengthened perspective. The effect was
all that the architect could have desired.
The Egyptians apply colors freely to their architecture.
degree the richness and harmony of the general effect.
The cloudness sky of Egypt gives brilliancy to all the
colors of nature, and these imitated on the walls of
temples and palaces, have a beauty and splendor that
must be seen to be appreciated. Granite, serpentine
stone, breccia, or basalt, whatever be the material, its
appearance, however elaborately polished, is by the
Egyptians enriched, as they believe, and as I begin to
think, by the pencil. The profusion with which they
employ colors and sculpture in their temples, palaces,
and tombs, has no parallel on earth. In Syria they are
subsidiary to architecture. Here they are a part of it.
The sloping outer walls, the external surfaces,—ceiling,
column, and pylon,—are all covered with sculpture.
Their sculptured bass-reliefs unite the qualities of a
cameo and an intaglio, the figure itself rising from the
broadly cut and deep outline of the design. Thus,
though the design is in relief, the figure does not project,
and is protected from injury. The colors which are
laid on these are softened by their retiring below the
surface. Real bass-reliefs, however, exist on the monuments
of the age of Sesortasen I.
The adytum of the temple which I am describing so
minutely, with descriptions of the peculiarities of the
architecture of the Egyptians (knowing your architectural
taste and curiosity about all such subjects, my
dear mother), was, unlike any of the halls I had traversed,
much smaller, and yet far more beautiful than
any of them. It was a square chamber, the ceiling of
which was painted blue and studded with stars, while
the moon shone down, a shield of polished silver, from
emblems, were placed upon columns around the hall,
and separated only by the winged asp-encircled sun.
These figures were richly colored, and the eyes of the
birds glittered with diamonds set in them. Upon the
entablature around the hall were sculptured the twelve
months. All these, and the walls, were beautifully
painted, with a harmony of distribution and combination
of their gorgeous colors singularly pleasing to the
eye. Hieroglyphics, traced in gold on blue panels,
recorded the virtues and deeds of Horus. The floor of
this sumptuous chamber represented the great circle of
the sun through the twelve constellations, and also the
images of the seven planetary gods, executed in the
pavement with almost every variety of colored stone,
such as the emerald, amethyst, agate, lapis lazuli, root
of emerald, cornelian, greenstone, hæmatite, all interset
with gold, silver, and bronze. Nothing could be richer.
A sun of pure gold was placed in the centre of this
wonderful zodiac, if I may so term it, for I do not know
whether it is a true planetary configuration which
is represented with a fixed date, or simply arbitrary, and
executed as an ornament. The Egyptians are, however,
skilful astronomers, and have the skill and learning to
interpret and thus record the ages of the past by the
procession of the heavens.
On one side of this chamber of art and beauty, stood
the monolith which contained the shrine of the god. It
was a rock of solid granite, in which a recess was
hollowed out, wherein sat the deity. Nothing could be
more majestic and simple. The Egyptians seem to
delight in contrasts. All the magnificence and architectural
the votary to a plain block of stone, containing a statue
of Syenite marble the size of a man. The face is calm
and majestic, and the eyes are fixed upon the worshipper
with a supernatural expression which awes him. The
genius which had erected the superb edifice of the god,
had concentrated its power in the face of the divinity.
Though stone, it seemed above humanity; and the soul
of the god seemed dwelling in it, and giving its countenance
a divine energy.
But, my dear mother, I will not longer occupy your
time with temples and architecture. I have written of
them sufficiently to give you an idea of the land I
sojourn in. But my descriptions will enable you to
form a more correct idea of such events as I may hereafter
write about, and enable you, when I relate scenes
and actions, to conceive, in a measure, the surrounding
features and aspect of places. If I were writing a volume
“on Egypt,” I would then visit and describe all
her magnificent temples, pyramids, obelisks, palaces,
canals, lakes, cities, and tombs, from Pelusium to the
tower of Syene. But I know that these would not
interest you, after what I have written, and that what is
personal to myself and descriptive of the people, that is,
life and action, will be more agreeable for you to read
(and for me to write) than gorgeous pictures of architectural
results. I shall, therefore, for the future, only
incidentally describe edifices (unless, indeed, I give you
a letter upon the mighty pyramids), and devote my pen
to scenes passing around me.
And in pursuance of this purpose, my dear mother, I
will describe to you the review of the army of chariots
I will not be so vain as to suffer you to think that this
superb spectacle was arranged purposely in honor of
your son; though had it been so, it could hardly have
added to the honors which that august and courteous
lady has showered upon me; but I feel that the distinction
is due rather to the friendship which Remeses
entertains for me, than to any merit or claim of my own
beyond my simple rank.
The review in question was prepared for this day;
and, in order that I might witness it, the queen had
graciously appointed the occasion for my presentation
to her. Although, in my account of that interview, I
spoke only of myself, yet there had been presented, just
before I entered the palace, several ambassadors, princes,
and philosophers, from various countries, including
Arabia, Persia, Sheba, Javan, Iberia, Abyssinia, and
the isles of the sea. These had come to Egypt, either
to enter the schools of philosophy, to negotiate terms
of tribute or alliance, or to study the science of war,
for which Egypt has become eminent, even rivalling
the mighty Philistine armies in discipline, effect, and
valor.
From the throne-room we passed out through a gateway,
from which descended steps to the parade, which
was a vast square, capable of holding one hundred
thousand men; while the colonnades around it would
accommodate as many more spectators.
The queen did not descend the steps, but took her
seat by a statue of the god of war, upon a sort of throne
beneath a canopy, supported by six bearers, to shield
her from the sun. But Remeses, leaving me by the
her guard, and near whom stood the ambassadors and
princes and philosophers, received from an attendant a
helmet of gold, which he put over his silken bonnet,
and from another a corselet of steel inlaid, mounted a
war-chariot in waiting, and, casting a glance around upon
the field, looked all at once the warrior-prince, which
the heightened color of his cheek and proud carriage of
his head showed he felt himself to be. Thus, whether a
soldier at the head of the hosts of Egypt, a counsellor
by the throne of his mother, a courtier among the
nobles, a philosopher in the Academies, he is perfect in
all things. As a son, he sets an example of devotion
and filial respect to the young men of the kingdom; as
a man, his private character is pure from every vice or
folly—a worthy heir to the throne of the dominant
kingdom of the earth. The sight which the square
presented surpasses my ability to convey to your mind
a just conception of. The vast area was one third occupied
by a division of chariots. The chariot corps constitutes
a very large and effective portion of the Egyptian
army. Each car contained two soldiers—for, from the
position I occupied, my eyes could take in the whole
splendid scene—besides the charioteer. The car on
which Remeses stood was drawn by two horses, but
without any charioteer, the reins being fastened to an
upright spear. His chariot was inlaid with silver and
gold. The sides and back were open, and the base or
floor of the car curved upward in front, serving as a
safeguard to the charioteer when one was required; but
it now supported his quiver of silver and bow-case of
gilded leather, richly ornamented with figures of lions.
chains of gold, pointed over his shoulder. Close to it
was an additional quiver containing Parthian arrows,
while a mace of iron and a heavy sword, that reflected
the sunlight, hung by thongs from the rings of the spear-case.
All the other chariots, which were constructed of
wood and iron handsomely painted, were similarly
accoutred, though less elegant in form and finish, and
provided only with a single quiver, bow, and spear.
The housings upon the horses were cuirasses of woven
links of the finest steel, while gorgeous feathers decked
their heads.
No sooner had the prince leaped upon his chariot,
than the Ethiopian slaves, who held his two fiery steeds,
sprung aside, releasing them in the act, when they
bounded into the air and dashed forward over the plain.
Remeses, immovable as a statue, let them fly before
him until he came in front of the drawn-up phalanx of
chariots, when, at a slight signal with his hands, the
horses, whose eyes are wholly free from shields or
blinders, stopped full. These proved to be his favorite
chariot-horses, and had been trained to render perfect
obedience.
Now commenced a grand movement of the whole
battalion. While Remeses stood in his chariot, the van
of the four thousand chariots, which constituted the
host, moved forward. In a few moments the whole
body was in motion. Dashing forward across the field,
they swept round at its extremity in vast curves, and
came thundering on, to pass the point where the queen
sat. The ground shook with the roll of eight thousand
wheels and the fall of twice as many horse-hoofs! It was
came on. The head of it, led by the chief captains,
passed our position like a mighty river, the surface of
which tossed with helmets, glittering spears, bows,
plumed heads of steeds, and gorgeous housings—a dazzling,
bewildering spectacle, full of sublimity and terrible
power. The splendor of the head-dresses and
trappings of the steeds, mingling with the shining cuirasses
and steel weapons of the armed charioteers,
presented a scene I shall never cease to remember.
In the centre of the field of review stood Remeses,
his eagle glance reviewing their movements, with a
few of his generals about him, each in his own chariot.
When this grand and imposing army had compassed
the square, they resumed their former position with a
precision and order marvellous to witness. Then followed
evolutions by detachments of chariots. Five
hundred of them, divided into two equal bodies, took
position, one at each end of the parade, and, at a signal,
charged upon each other at a speed which, at first slow,
increased each moment. My heart leaped with excitement.
I looked to see a very battle, and to behold
horses and charioteers overturned in tumultuous confusion
from the inevitable shock. But so well-drilled were
they, that the two lines, deploying as they drew nearer,
passed through each other in spaces measured by the
eyes of the charioteers so nicely, that in a moment they
were rattling away, each to occupy the other's vacated
position. There was a general shout of applause from
the tens of thousands of spectators at this brilliant
manœuvre. Other displays of battle-charioteering took
place, during which was exhibited every evolution
This magnificent review occupied three hours, when
it terminated by all the generals, and chief captains, and
leaders of cohorts and legions, simultaneously detaching
themselves from their several commands, and one after
another galloping at full speed, first around the prince,
saluting him, and then wheeling and turning in front of
the queen's pavilion, paying her military homage as
they passed her, by placing the left hand upon the
breast, lowering the point of the spear, and then raising it
above their glittering helmets. The queen rose, smiled,
and returned the salute by a graceful wave of her hand.
This company of warrior chiefs excelled, in richness of
armor and apparel, and housings and head-dresses for
their steeds, and in the beauty of their war-chariots, all
that had gone before. Returning to their post, the
trumpets of the whole army sounded, and this martial
array of chariots and horsemen moved all together
across the parade, at a rapid trot, and, defiling by fifties
through a colossal pylon, soon disappeared outside of
the walls on their way to their camp. Their retiring
trumpets could be still heard dying away beyond the
gates, as Remeses rejoined us, alighting from his chariot
after loosing the reins of his steeds from about his body,
to which he had bound them during one part of the
evolutions, in which he took the lead of a charging
legion in his own chariot, as ever without a charioteer.
We now retired into the palace, it being past noon,
and were conducted towards the reception-rooms of the
royal banquet-hall by the grand-chamberlain. At the
door we were received by the chief butler, while the
bending low as the queen and her guests passed in. We
consisted, besides her majesty, the prince and myself, of
the ambassador from Chaldea, the king's messenger
from the Court of Chederlaomer III., in whose country,
three hundred years and more ago, the famous battle of
Sodom was fought; the ambassador from the kingdom
of Assyria; the young Prince of Tarshish; the Duke
Chilmed of Sheba, and the Dukes Javan and Tubal;
the Lord of Mesech, and the Prince of Midian. Besides
these was a great and wise prince from the land of Uz,
near the country of Prince Abram, the Mesopotamian.
He was accompanied by two friends, philosophers and
men of note, Zophar of Naamath, and Lord Eliphaz of
Teman. This lord of Uz came into Egypt with a great
retinue and train of servants, for he is a man of vast
possessions. He had heard of the wisdom and power of
Amense, and had come with his own merchants to visit
her court. He is also an eminently wise man, a worshipper
of the one Deity, as was the ancient king Abram.
He is of venerable and majestic aspect, is learned
in all the wisdom of Chaldea and Arabia, and seeks to
add thereto the lore of Egypt. Besides this distinguished
prince, there are other philosophers of note and
name. In such noble company, dear mother, was it my
fortunate lot to fall. Truly, to come into Egypt is to
see the whole world!
The queen, after entering the ante-room, retired to the
right, where her ladies-in-waiting received her and escorted
her to her own apartments to prepare for the
banquet, which had been delayed by the review. Remeses
leading the way, with me by his side, we came to
us scented water in ewers of gold, to lave our fingers,
removed our sandals, and in foot-pans of gold washed
our feet, beginning with Remeses. They then dried
them with perfumed napkins of the softest linen fringed
with threads of gold, and placed upon them sandals of
crimson cloth, embroidered with flowers. Our upper
garments were removed by Nubian servants, and replaced
by a banquet-vesture, more or less rich according
to our rank. Thus refreshed, we entered a beautiful
reception-room containing the most elegant articles of
furniture. Here every one of us was presented by the
chief gardener of the palace with a lotus-flower, to be
held in the hand during the entertainment. As we
moved about, admiring the beauty of the rooms and the
furniture, and such objects of luxury and art as were
intended to gratify the tastes of guests, there were several
arrivals of generals, and officers of the chariot legion,
and other divisions of the army of Lower Egypt, who
had been summoned to the banquet. Among these I
recognized some of the superbly uniformed officers who
had lined the avenue of the grand approach to the
throne—for you will recollect that I said it was an army
of officers, soldiers of this rank alone being permitted to
do the honors of the palace on the reception of princes
or foreign ambassadors.
There were, also, nobles, and distinguished citizens,
Egyptian gentlemen of worth and condition, that entitled
them to the honor of dining at the palace. From a
window I witnessed the arrival of these. They came in
elegant pleasure-chariots, attended by a number of
servants. One of these footmen came forward to announce
the reins, for the Egyptian lord prefers to drive himself
in the streets; another, who held above his head, standing
behind him, a large parasol of gorgeous plumes,
alighted, carried it still above him as he crossed to the
portico of the palace.
Several aged persons arrived in palanquins exquisitely
carved and painted, and borne by slaves. Two or three
arrived on foot, an attendant holding a shield or large
fan above them. Water was brought also for their feet,
but not in golden foot-bowls, and robes and sandals were
distributed according to rank.
At length, for these polite Egyptians (as well as ourselves)
regard it as a want of good-breeding to sit down
to table immediately on arriving, the music, which had
played all the while the guests were arriving, ceased,
and the chief butler announced the moment of the banquet.
At the same instant the queen entered the apartment,
and, after receiving the salutations of us all, was
escorted by Remeses to the banquet-hall. As we entered,
a company of musicians, stationed near the door,
struck up one of the favorite airs of the country, playing
upon tambourines, cymbals, double-pipes, flutes which
rested on the floor, guitars, lyres, and instruments unknown
to me. The music was full of harmony, and, to
my ear, novel, from the number of strange instruments.
This continued until we had been seated according to
rank, my place being to the left of the queen, Remeses
sitting at her right. There were four ladies of rank also
near the queen, along the table, which I may mention
was of polished silver.
When we had taken our places the loud music ceased,
the queen, commenced playing a beautiful air, accompanying
it by their voices. The melody was full of
richness and sweetness. While this was performing,
servants approached, and from exquisite porcelain vases
poured sweet-scented ointment upon our heads. Then
entered from the gardens, into which the banquet-room
opened on two sides, as many beautiful maidens, bearing
necklaces of fresh flowers which they had just gathered,
and cast them over our shoulders.
Having received these tokens of welcome, a train of
servants presented us wine in one-handled goblets. That
of Remeses, and mine own, was of gold and jewelled.
The others were of silver or agate. The queen's was
presented to her in a single crystal, and that of the ladies
in small, delicate vases of some precious metal. The
health of the queen, and of the prince, and others present,
was drunk, while music regaled our senses. Remeses,
who acted as ruler of the feast, pledged me to drink thy
health, my dear mother, which was responded to by all
the company; the Prince of Uz remarking, that the fame
of your virtues and the wisdom of your reign had
reached his country. You may judge how my heart
swelled with pride and joy at this testimony to your excellencies,
O my noble and royal mother, from so dignified
a source, in the presence of such a company of witnesses!
Until the dinner was served up, various songs
and performances were introduced, and at the close of
the banquet there were the wonderful dances of Arabian
girls, exhibitions of buffoonery, games, and feats of
agility by jugglers. I regret to say, that some of the
guests retired overcome with wine, and had to be borne
two of the ladies were freer with their little crystal goblets
than was seeming for their sex. The queen scarce
touched the wine to her lips, while Remeses preserved
the severest temperance. After the banquet, Remeses
accompanied me to apartments in the palace, which he
said were for the future to be my abode. Here, taking
leave of him, I commenced this letter, which I now
close, assuring you of my filial love and reverence.
| LETTER V. The pillar of fire, or, Israel in bondage | |