University of Virginia Library

4. LETTER IV.

I am still in the City of the Sun, or Re, as I find
it is often called by the Egyptians, and I write to you
from the palace of Remeses, not the abode which
was first allotted me, but in apartments in his own
imperial residence, an honored sharer of his table and
society.

Here, in a sumptuous chamber, the walls of which are
intercolumnar panels, enriched by paintings on gold and
blue grounds, tastefully bordered by flowers and fruit, I
once more resume my pen to write to you about this
wonderful land.

The day after I closed my last letter, dear mother, a
high officer from the Queen Amense alighted from his
chariot at my palace, and placed in my hands the signet
of his royal mistress, with a message that she desired me
to be presented to her.

I had already received an intimation from the prince
of this intended honor, and had made myself ready,
being attired, when the messenger came, in the full costume
of a prince of Tyre, save the golden crown; instead
of which I wore the helmet-shaped cap of Tyrian gold-thread,
which was presented to me by your own loved

hands. Over my shoulders I clasped the cloak of Tyrian
purple, embroidered by the hands of the fair princess
Thamonda; and instead of my sword I held a gold-tipped
wand, as no one is permitted to appear before the queen
with arms. These wands or rods are carried by all
Egyptians, of every rank, as constant companions; but
their value and beauty are regulated by the position and
wealth of the person,—those of nobles being tipped
with gold, while ivory, ebony, palm-wood, and common
woods, are the materials of which others are made.
The rod borne by me was a present from Remeses, and
near the burnished gold head of it was a massive ring of
great price, bearing his royal cartouch, in which he is
called “Remeses-Moses, Son of Pharaoh's Daughter,
and Prince of Re, Memphis, and Thebes, Son of the
god Nilus, and Leader of the Sacred Hosts.”

There stood in front of my palace three chariots, two
of them drawn by a pair of beautifully spotted horses,
while to the third, and most elegant, were harnessed
four snow-white steeds. A burnished shield rising
above the gracefully curved back, showed that it was a
royal chariot. The charioteer was a Nubian, wearing
bracelets of gold, as well as otherwise richly attired. The
chariot was gorgeously ornamented at the sides with
ornaments of light open-work. It was lined with crimson
silk, which was visible through the interstices of the
open carvings. These chariots had two wheels; the
pole projected from the middle of the axle, and was
bent upwards at a short distance from the body of the
carriage. At the end of the pole the yoke was fastened,
and each horse attached to the car by a single trace,
extending on his inner side from the base of the pole to

the saddle. I noticed, too, that the heads of the spirited
horses were borne up tight by a rein made fast to a
hook in front of the saddle, and the long reins passed
through a loop or ring at the side. Also, that the heads
of the horses were adorned with lofty plumes; that the
harness was ornamented with silver and gold, or burnished
brass, while upon their bodies were housings of
the most elaborate and beautiful workmanship, representing
royal devices.

One of these superb chariots was that in which the
queen's officer came. In the other sat the grand-chamberlain,
behind his charioteer. The third, I found, was
for my use. Drawn up, hard by, there were not less
than threescore footmen of the queen's guard, who,
ranging themselves from the door, paid me the lowest
obeisance as I passed to my chariot, at the side of
which stood the venerable and stately grand-chamberlain,
to assist me to enter it.

There was no seat; for the Egyptians stand in their
chariots, as a more dignified and commanding attitude,—
a custom probably derived from the necessity of doing
so in their war-chariots, in order to combat. I have,
however, seen three or four very light and elegant
pleasure-chariots, in which ladies of high rank were
seated, but one only in each. But when the queen
rides, she stands upon a dais in her chariot, and, as
she is borne at speed by six horses harnessed abreast,
she has the air and port of a flying goddess. The eyes
of her subjects follow her as if she were a meteor, and
gaze after her with admiration and awe.

The day was bright, as it always is in Egypt, with a
cloudless sun. It lighted up the long lines of palaces

where dwelt priests and nobles, illumined the propyla
of the temples, burnished the lakes, gilded the obelisks,
and flooded the whole City of the Sun with magnificence;—for
there is a splendor and glory in the sunshine
of Egypt unknown in other lands, the result of the
purity of the crystalline atmosphere.

My charioteer dashed onward as if great speed was a
royal pace. Before me ran footmen with wands clearing
the avenue, and behind came the swift-footed retainers,
while on each side of me rolled the two
chariots. Acherres, my secretary, rode near upon an
Arabian courser; and his superb seat in the saddle
and his masterly horsemanship drew the applause of
the Egyptians, who are better charioteers than horsemen.

After a dashing ride of a mile, we entered a vast
square which I had not before seen. It extended two
thousand feet each way. In the centre was a calm lake
basking in the sunshine. Around this lake was a border
of palm-trees, then a border of orange-trees filled
with singing birds, while in their shade walked groups
of handsomely attired people, and children enjoyed themselves
in play. Upon the lake, ornamented pleasure galleys
were moving in various directions, and a spirit of
enjoyment pervaded the whole scene. Around this grand
square with its central lake were arranged as follows: on
the north side a superb colonnade of sculptured columns,
forming the façade of the Temple of Mnevis, the sacred
ox of On, at the gate or propyla of which crouched two
sphinxes, with majestic human heads. On the west side
was a vast paved area, in the centre of which towered
the obelisk of Thothmes the Great. This area is inclosed

by the royal armory, an edifice expressive of strength
and grandeur in its massive and warlike proportions.
On the east is a pyramid two hundred feet high,
in front of which two sphinxes with heads of women
and bodies of birds repose, while on each side extends a
range of noble pylones opening into avenues that lead
to interior courts. This singular edifice is the temple
of Re, and sometimes gives its name to the city, Re
being also another name for the sun. On the fourth
side of this stupendous area rises a grand palace, which
occupies the whole space of the breadth of the square.
I can only describe the front of this royal palace by
representing it as a city of columns, interspaced at
regular intervals by noble propyla, which, in their turn,
are sculptured and adorned in such profusion as to
bewilder the eye with forms of beauty. Two sphinxes
of colossal proportions, with the bodies of lions and the
heads of beautiful women wearing double crowns,
guard the entrance to this august palace. Upon the
terrace, to which a flight of broad steps ascended,
stood the royal guard of the palace like statues, each of
the one hundred Theban soldiers leaning upon his spear,
with his oval shield resting against his side.

We drove up in front, and between the heads of the
sphinxes I alighted. The moment I did so, the Theban
guard stood to their arms, and their captain, with a
glittering helmet upon his head and holding his sword
in his hand reversed, descended to receive me. Escorted
by him, and followed by the grand-chamberlain, I
ascended to the terrace saluted by the guard with the
honors paid to royalty. The terrace was surrounded
with the statues of the kings of this dynasty, and of the

Theban Pharaohs; but the Phœnician Pharaohs are
not now numbered among the kings of Egypt. The
terrace led into a circular hall which was richly carved,
gilded, and painted with historic scenes, battle-pieces,
and naval combats. Conspicuous upon a panel, directly
in front of the entrance, was the representation of the
expulsion of the Shepherd Kings from Memphis. In the
faces of the monarchs Amosis and Amunophis, the immediate
ancestors of Prince Remeses, I see no resemblance
to him. His style of face is wholly different
from the heroes of the dynasty to which he belongs. His
features have a nobler cast, and seem to belong to a man
of a higher intellectual development, and no doubt he is
superior to all other Egyptians; for, young as he is, his
name is already associated with all that is wise, and
great, and true.

The entablature of the next hall we entered was a
wonderful sculpture. It represented a circle of beautiful
girls chained together by wreaths of flowers, and
with interlaced arms, bending over and smiling down
upon those in the hall, each extending a hand holding a
vase. There was a unity of design in the whole of the
interior of this adytum or presence-chamber, with the
distribution of light and the groups of figures shown by
it on the walls, that surpassed any apartment I had yet
seen. As I entered this enchanted hall, the martial
music which had hailed me as I came into the outer
vestibule ceased, and was succeeded by the most ravishing
sounds of instrumental music from an unseen source.
I would have lingered, but there advanced a beautiful
youth, all clad in gold and purple, it seemed to me, so
richly was he attired, who said:

“The queen desires me to conduct the noble Prince
of Tyre to her presence.”

I followed, and before him opened, as if by their
own volition, a pair of two-leaved doors of ivory, inlaid
with emeralds. The throne-room stood before me—if
an apartment a thousand feet across may be termed a
room. I stood at the threshold of a chamber surrounded
by columns ninety feet high. A guard of soldiers, in
silver cuirasses and helmets covered with silken scarfs,
inclosed the space. An avenue of statues of the gods,
in the centre, led for eight hundred feet to the throne.
Along this avenue was arranged a brilliant array of
officers, in armor and uniforms of the most dazzling
description, to which every color and every precious
metal contributed, while helm and cuirass, of those
highest in rank, blazed with jewels. I advanced, led by
the beautiful page, in whose fine black eyes and long
lashes, arched brow and aquiline nose, I recognized the
now well-known lineaments of the Hebrew race. He
moved with his eyes cast down. I experienced, my dear
mother, at a public reception so august, not a little embarrassment;
but I repressed it, and endeavored to receive
these honors, at the greatest court on earth, with
the ease and self-command that became my rank. As
I drew near the throne the scene increased in magnificence.
At length two statues of Osiris and Isis terminated
the vista I had traversed; and I saw before me the
throne of Egypt, one hundred feet in front, in the centre
of a space one half a stadium in diameter, and elevated
upon a dais or platform of variegated marble, twelve
feet from the floor. This noble platform was square,
and at each of the four corners crouched a lion, respectively

with the head of an eagle, a sea-dragon (no
doubt, a fabulous monster), a bull, and a man—all,
figures representing the four kingdoms of the air, the
sea, the earth, and the intellect or soul. These four
colossal beasts faced inward, towards the throne, to signify
that they beheld in its occupant their mistress and
sovereign. Upon their heads were crowns, namely, of
Thebes, Memphis, Re, and Ethiopia.

The platform, upon the angles of which crouched
these majestic figures, was ascended by four flights of
steps of red Syene stone, inlaid with precious stones.
There were seven steps to each ascent, representing the
seven mouths of the Nile by which the land of Egypt is
approached. These symbols were subsequently explained
to me by Remeses; but I describe them now,
as I may not again have an opportunity of so doing
in the varied scenes and subjects that challenge my
attention.

In the midst of this elevation, rising island-like in the
centre of the “Hall of The Pharaohs,” stood the throne
itself. It was separated from every object in solitary
splendor, a space of many yards being left on all sides
of the polished floor, in the brilliancy of which not
only the throne itself, but the heads of the four
sphinxes, were reflected. How shall I give you, dear
mother, a just conception of the throne-chair? It was
of the purest ivory, carved with wonderful beauty. The
simple grandeur of its form and material was more
impressive than the most gorgeous display of gilding
and precious stones. Its shape was not unlike that of a
chariot, the back curving gracefully over the head of
the occupant, and terminating in an expanded canopy of

feathers, all of ivory, yet so thin and delicately executed
that they waved in the south breeze that stirred through
the hall. This chariot-shaped throne rested upon the
bodies of two Nigritian lion-leopards of Rhodian marble,
between which three steps ascended to the seat of the
chair. The seat was a single pearl, a gift from the
Queen of Ind to Amunophis the Great, the father of
Amense.

The footstool of this beautiful throne was a single onyxstone
in a border of gold, standing upon does' feet, each
of which was a ruby. The carpet before the throne was
woven of the plumage of the bird-of-paradise intermingled
with that of birds of India and Arabia, of
divers colors. Skins of lions and leopards, fringed
with gold-thread, lay upon the mirror-like floor of the
dais, from the footstool to the steps which descended
from the platform, or no footstep could have crossed it,
so high was the polish of the marble surface.

High above the throne was a canopy of blue silk extending
over the whole dais, and representing the signs
of the heavens when Amense was born, with the presiding
constellation delineated in its vertical position.
Imagine this court of the throne, a peristyle of aquamarine
and white columns, with capitals carved in imitation
of flowers, and the shafts enriched by painting and
sculpture; surround it with gorgeously attired courtiers,
their eyes fixed upon the queen; behold at the steps
of the dais the highest officers of her court, awaiting
with looks of homage. On each side of the throne
itself stand the two military princes of her realm, one
who commands her armies, the other her navies. They
are in the full costume of their high rank, and glitter

with jewels. Behind the throne, near two stately figures
representing Truth and Justice, is a brilliant guard of
honor, called “pages of the throne-room,” who are sons
of nobles, and whose place in public is always near the
person of the queen. Their hands are so laden with
rings that they appear rather like a chain of gold and
jewels held therein. They wear orange-colored jewelled
bonnets and necklaces, and carry blue wands tipped
with pearls.

I have now described, dear mother, all the externals
of the scene into which I was presented, in order that
you may form some idea of the glory and majesty of this
court, and the style of its magnificent monarchs. I will
now come to the central person, around whom is gathered
all this courtly splendor and architectural grandeur.

As I advanced towards the steps of the dais, two chief
officers in flowing linen robes, and wearing chains of
gold about their necks, drew near, when my Hebrew
page fell back, giving them place.

One of these dignified personages said to me in pure
Syriac, for the Egyptians are learned in all polite
tongues—

“We are sent to lead you to the foot of the stairs of
the four kingdoms.”

They placed themselves one on each side of me, and
as I came to the seven steps, to my great joy I beheld
prince Remeses descending them to welcome and receive
me; for the majesty, and glory, and magnificence,
and novelty of the whole scene had nearly
overwhelmed me with awe: indeed, I felt as if verily
advancing into the presence of the enthroned Osiris
himself.

The prince looked more strikingly noble than in my
first interview. He was attired with the utmost richness,
and looked the personification of kiagly dignity.
He was now distinguished by the amplitude of his
robes, and their fineness, and a girdle ornamented with
the urœus or royal serpent. All his garments were of
the lightest and finest material, instead of the heavy and
costly stuffs which form the robes of state in Phœnicia
and Assyria; for, as my own embroidered and heavy
mantle showed me, such material would be out of place
in this clime of perennial summer. He wore a gorgeous
vesture embroidered with leaves, and a silken sash
wound about his body, after the fashion of ancient
Egyptian princes, which sash was divided into three different
folds, over which fell his upper garment of fine
Persian cloth, with long sleeves, also embroidered. The
distinguishing mark of his rank, as a prince and “son,”
and which hung down the side of his face, was the
badge of the god Horus, terminating in a fringe of gold,
of a fashion worn only by this dynasty. With this
badge was entwined his braided lock of hair, of which I
have before spoken. This costume is arbitrary, and may
not be changed, as the laws regulate it for king, priest,
and people; therefore do I so particularly describe it.

With grace and dignity he saluted me before the
whole court, saying, “Noble prince, with pleasure I
present you to my mother the queen. She is already
prepossessed in your favor, and welcomes you to her
court with distinctions becoming the heir to the throne
of Phœnicia, and our royal cousin.”

I bowed in recognition of this courtesy, and Remeses,
taking my hand, led me up the steps of the dais. The

Queen Amense, seated upon her ivory throne, awaited
my approach. Remeses, leading me to within three
paces of her footstool, said, with a low obesiance of mingled
filial reverence and princely homage,—

“Mother and queen! I introduce to your court, Sesostris,
Prince of Tyre!”

I also did profound obeisance to the majesty of the
presence near which I stood, and then fixed my eyes
upon the mighty potentate about to address me, and
presented to her your original letter.

As she opened it, I observed her face. I beheld before
me a woman of noble aspect, with rich brown hair,
slightly silvered, worn with severe plainness across her
temples. Her face was still beautiful, though fifty-three
years had passed over her head, but it was marked
with lines of thought and care. What her fine features
had lost in beauty, they had gained in majesty. They
recalled those of the statue of Astarte, in the temple of
the Moon at Sidon; and, in truth, her air and port
would have become a goddess. Her eyes were the color
of her hair—a rich sunny brown, like that of the Syrian
women of Damascus; and is she not, by descent through
Ephtha, the daughter of the last Phœnician Pharaoh,
allied to the royal line of Syro-Phœnicia? I never
beheld a countenance so dignified, yet so benign.
Her eyes are piercing, and imperial in their glance;
and she carries her superb head with a consciousness of
dominion. I did not marvel longer at her vast power
over her subjects, and their submission, as well as that
of the kingdoms around her, to the rule of her will.

Upon her head she wore the double diadem of the
Thebaïd and Memphis, symbol that the sovereignty of

Upper and Lower Egypt is vested in her person. The
inner crown was a graceful conical bonnet of white silk,
sown with pearls and lined with cloth of silver, terminating
in a knob, like a pomegranate bud, which is the
emblem, I believe, of Upper Egypt. The outer crown,
which is similar to that worn by the Phœnician Pharaohs,
is a rich band of gold, faced with cloth of gold and
lined with red silk, red being the special color of Lower
Egypt as white is of Upper. This crown is open at the
top, and is put on over the other; and the two worn
together form a diadem of beauty and glory.

About her neck the queen wore a necklace of precious
stones, the clasp of which was a vulture, his neck encircled
by an asp, on which he was trampling—emblem of
the goddess Maut, mother of Isis. She was dressed in a
vestment of Persian gauze of silk, of the purest whiteness
and of the fineness of mist, and a green vesture
enriched with gold and blue needlework, reaching below
the waist and secured by a girdle blazing with diamonds.
Long robes descended to her feet, of those
most beautiful patterns and rare colors which the
looms of Damascus produce only for royal wearers, and
in the manufacture of which years are consumed. Carelessly
over one shoulder was thrown a Persian shawl,
one like which is only made in a lifetime, and would
buy a king's ransom. The monarchs of Egypt thus can
command with their wealth, dear mother, what other
kings can only sigh for and envy.

She did not rise to receive me, but when I would
have kneeled at her footstool, she bended forward and
touched my hand with her jewelled right hand, which I
reverently raised to my lips and forehead. She would

not suffer me to kneel, but made me stand on one side
of her, while Remeses stood on her right, and proceeded
to ask me a variety of questions. She uttered her interrogatories
with grace and benignity. She expressed
her gratification at seeing me at her court—trusted I
would find Egypt so agreeable that I should remain a
long time her guest—asked after your health and welfare,
and desired me to convey to you the expression of
her esteem for you, and her desire that the friendly
relations now existing between the two courts may be
strengthened by my visit. She was also pleased to say,
that every opportunity should be afforded me for seeing
Egypt, and that if I desired to visit Karnac and Luxor,
and the temples and cities of the Thebaïd, she would
furnish me with galleys.

To all this exceeding kindness and courtesy, my dear
mother, I returned, as you may be sure, appropriate
acknowledgments; and after some further conversation,
in which Prince Remeses took part, the audience terminated:
but only to introduce a spectacle, such as I had
no conception was in reserve—the review of her army
of chariots and horsemen, on the parade of the palace.

But I must reserve my description of this scene to a
subsequent letter. Till then, I remain,