b. Metz.
Hôtels. *Grand Hôtel de Metz (Pl. a), R. 2, B. 1, D. inc. W. 3½,
A. ¾ fr.; Hôtel de l'Europe (Pl. b), R. and L. 3, D. 4, A. 1 fr.; both
in the Rue des Clercs. *Hôtel de Paris (Pl. c), adjoining the Terrace,
of the second class. Hôtel du Nord (Pl. d); Hôtel du Commerce
(Pl. e); Hôtel du Porte Enseigne (Pl. f)
Cafés. Café Parisien, Place de la Comédie; Café du Grand
Balcon, in the Esplanade near the station, affording a great variety of
ices; Café Français and Café Fabert, in the Place Napoléon, near
the cathedral.
Metz, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, afterwards
appertaining to the German empire, and in 1556 ceded to
France together with Toul and Verdun, is now one of the most
important military stations in France, with a garrison of 14,000
men and a great school of artillery. It is the capital of the
Département de la Moselle and contains a population of 56,888.
The river flows through the town in several branches, thus
forming several islands.
The most important edifice is the *Cathedral (Pl. 7), a
Gothic structure with numerous flying buttresses. The nave
was completed in 1332, the choir in 1519 and the portal added
in 1764. At the altar adjoining the sacristy is the kneeling
figure of the architect Pierre Perrat (d. 1400). All the ancient
monuments and pictures were destroyed during the revolution,
with the exception of a few venerable frescoes on the pillars,
recently freed from their coating of whitewash. The choir contains
some fine stained glass, dating principally from 1523,
besides several windows of modern workmanship.
The tower is 363 ft. in height; 110 steps ascend to the first
(105 to the large bell La Muette), 78 more to the highest terrace.
The passage is very narrow at one point, but presents no
real difficulty. The view from the summit amply repays the
ascent and embraces the extremely fertile "Pays Messin", the
town, the fortifications and the course of the Moselle.
The open halls of the Marché Couvert (Pl. 23), opposite
the W. portal, are occupied by vendors of fruit, vegetables and
flowers and afford a striking proof of the luxuriant fertility of
the environs. Pine-apples of considerable size, as well as fine
specimens of other fruits, are frequently observed. — Those who
are interested in such establishments may visit the extensive
Abattoir, or slaughter-house, situated without the Porte Chambière.
In the Place Napoléon, which adjoins the W. side of the
cathedral, rises the Statue of Marshal Fabert (d. 1662), a
contemporary of Turenne. The inscription records a declaration
by the marshal of his willingness to sacrifice his life and property
in the service of his king.
The Library (Pl. 2), near the cathedral, contains numerous
Roman antiquities and a small collection of pictures.
The Arsenal (Pl. 1) contains specimens of modern, as well
as ancient weapons, tastefully arranged, and in the court numerous
cannons (gratuity 1 fr., closed on Sundays). Under a roof to the
l. of the entrance is a long cannon carried off by the French
with 189 others in 1799 from the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein,
where it was known by the name of Vogel Greiff, having been
constructed by order of the Elector of Trèves, Richard von
Greiffenclau. It is 15 ft. in length and weighs 12½ tons.
The high road to Germany issues from the Porte des Allemands
and the Fort Belle Croix. The Rue des Allemands, leading
to this gate, contains a considerable number of German shops.
The gate exhibits bullet-marks dating from the unsuccessful siege
of the town by the emperor Charles V.
The contiguous church of St. Eucaire (St. Eucharius) (Pl. 5)
is a tasteful structure of the 12th cent., especially interesting to
the professional observer. Interior destitute of ornament.
The S. side of the town is bounded by the Esplanade,
with its beautiful walks and imposing barracks. Military music
here in the evening, three times weekly.
On the Esplanade rises the Palais de Justice (Pl. 25),
an extensive building erected during the last century, and seat
of the different courts of judicature. In the police and other
courts the services of an interpreter are frequently required when
the parties concerned are natives of the E. or N. portion of the
department, where in several of the villages German is still
exclusively spoken.
A few leisure hours may advantageously be employed in
making an excursion to Jouy-aux-Arches (p. 265).
Railway from Metz to Trèves by Thionville and Luxembourg,
the most direct route, in 3¾ hrs.; fares 12 fr. 45, 9 fr. 25,
6 fr. 65 c.
