University of Virginia Library

Introduction.

I. Language. Money. Passports. Douane.

For those who are desirous of deriving instruction as well as
pleasure from a visit to Paris, the most attractive treasury of art
and industry in the world, some acquaintance with the French
language is indispensable. The metropolis of France, it is true,
possesses English hotels, English professional men, English "valets
de place", English shops etc.; but the visitor who is dependent
upon such extraneous aid cannot expect to realize to
the fullest extent the enjoyment of which Paris is the fruitful
source.

The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely convenient
in keeping accounts. French Banknotes of 5000, 1000,
500, 200 and 100 francs are everywhere received at their full
value. Gold coins are of the value of 100, 50, 40, 20, 10 and
5 francs; Silver coins of 5, 2, 1, ½ and ⅕ (20 centimes)
franc; Copper of 10, 5, 2 and 1 centime (100 centimes =
1 franc). "Sou" is the old name, still in common use, for
5 centimes; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes termed "une
pièce de cent sous", 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, ½ fr.
= 10 sous.

English banknotes, gold and even silver are generally received
at the full value, except at the shops of the money-changers,
where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the beginning of
the book shows the comparative value of the French and English
currencies, when (as is usual in ordinary traffic) at par; the addition
of a list of the coins in circulation in Germany will not be unacceptable
to travellers en route for the Rhine; the currency of Switzerland
is the same as that of France.

Foreign bills of exchange on Paris must be furnished with
a stamp of 5 c. per 100 fr., to be procured at the Timbre Impérial,
Rue de la Banque 13, before they are presented to the
banker.

With regard to the cost of a visit to Paris, it is impossible
to offer any remarks with precision. Supposing a traveller to frequent
a hotel of either first or second-rate pretensions, to dine
at a table d'hôte, or perhaps the "Dîner de Paris", to partake of
wine of a good though not extravagant quality, to visit the theatres,
to indulge in a supper à la carte etc. etc., a pound a day would probably
be the lowest estimate at which all this could be accomplished.

The thrifty and experienced traveller, who visits Paris for its
monuments, its galleries, its collections, and not for its pleasures,
will know how to control his expenditure in accordance with
the extent of his resources; but where all that can gratify the
eye and the palate are so temptingly displayed, where luxury is
raised to a science and where the provocatives to extravagance meet
one at every step, each traveller must be his own mentor.

Passports are now superfluous in France, as well as in Belgium,
Holland, Germany (Austrian dominions excepted) and Switzerland.
Considering, however, the facility with which these documents
are procured, it is always a wise precaution to be provided
with one. Application may be made to W. J. Adams, 59
Fleet Street, Lee and Carter, 440 Strand, E. Stanford, 6 Charing
Cross, or Letts and Co., 8 Royal Exchange.

In order to avoid any unpleasant detention at the Customhouse
(douane), travellers are strongly recommended to eschew
all articles not absolutely necessary. Books and newspapers are
occasionally regarded with suspicion. Cigars (6 only free of duty)
pay 10 c. each.

II. Post and Telegraph Offices.

The General Post Office is in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau,
near the church of St. Eustache, but is shortly to be transferred
to a more central position near the Place de la Concorde. There
is also a Bureau Principal in each of the 20 arrondissements,
besides Bureaux Supplémentaires and numerous Boîtes aux Lettres.
The transmission of parcels is undertaken by the Messageries Impériales,
Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 28, the Messageries Générales,
Rue St. Honoré 130, and other companies.

The Post-restante office (corner of the Rue Pagevin and the
Rue Coq Héron) is open from 8 a. m. to 8 p. m., on Sundays
till 5 p. m. In applying for letters the written or printed name,
or passport, of the addressee should always be presented. It
is, however, far preferable to desire letters to be addressed to
the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor purposes residing.

The postage for prepaid letters (10 grammes or ⅓ oz.; ½ fr.
in silver weighs 2½ grammes) within the limits of Paris is 10 c.;
if not prepaid 15 c.; for any part of France, Algeria and Corsica,
prepaid 20 c., not prepaid 30 c. Prepaid letters (7½ grammes
or ¼ oz.) to Great Britain 40 c., not prepaid 80 c.; to N. America
80 c.; Switzerland 40 c.; Rhine 40—50 c.; N. Germany 50—60 c.;
Russia 1 fr. Registered (chargées) letters must be furnished
with two seals and pay double postage. A receipt is given, on
presenting which, in case of loss, a compensation of 50 fr. may
be recovered. Postage for newspapers (always prepaid), which
must be enclosed by a narrow band only, capable of being removed
without difficulty, for France 4 c., for Great Britain 8 c.

The letter-boxes for the evening-trains are emptied as follows:
the ordinary street letter-boxes at 5 p. m.; those of the 20
Arrondissements, as well as the General Post Office at 5. 45. If
too late for the last clearance of the boxes letters may be posted
till 6 for an additional sum of 20 c., and till 6. 15 for 40 c. at
the offices Rue Tirechappe 1, Boulevard Beaumarchais 83, Rue
des Vieilles Haudriettes 4, Rue Cardinal Lemoine 22, Rue
Bonaparte 21, Rue St. Dominique 56, Place de la Madeleine 28,
Rue St. Lazare 11, Rue du Helder 24, Rue d'Enghien 21. For
40 c. additional, letters may also be posted till 6. 30 at the Place
de la Bourse 4, Rue de Cléry 28 and at the General Post Office,
where they are moreover received from 6. 30 till 7 for an additional
sum of 60 c. Letters will likewise be forwarded on the
same evening if posted at the proper railway-stations before 7. 30.

Telegraph Offices are to be found in each of the 20 Arrondissements.
The most convenient are at the General Post Office,
Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau 5; Grand Hôtel du Louvre, Rue
Rivoli 166; Place de la Bourse 12 (day and night); Hôtel de
Ville; Boulevard de Sébastopol 47 (l. bank); the Luxembourg;
office of the minister of the interior, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain 103
(day and night); Place de la Madeleine 7; Rue St. Lazare 126;
Avenue des Champs Elysées 67 (day and night); Rue Fléchier 2;
the Grand Hôtel; Caserne Prince Eugène (Rue de la Douane);
Boulevard St. Denis 16; Station du Nord etc.

III. Embassies.

Austria, rue de Grenelle St. Germain (101) (1—3 o'clock).

Belgium, Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré 153 (12—2½).

Denmark, Rue de l'Université 37 (1—3).

Great Britain, Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré 39 (11—2).

Holland, Rue Circulaire 13 (11—2).

Italy, Rond Point des Champs Elysées 9 (11—2).

Prussia, Rue de Lille 78 (12—1½).

Russia, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain 79 (12—2).

Spain, Quai d'Orsay 25 (11—1).

Switzerland, Rue Blanche 3 (10—3).

Sweden and Norway, Rue de Marignan 9 (before 2).

United States of N. America, Rue du Centre 15 (11—3).

The above are the present addresses; a change of residence,
however, occasionally takes place.

IV. Shops.

For the convenience of the stranger, a few of the best and
most respectable of the innumerable and tempting "magazins" of
Paris are here enumerated:

Amber ornaments: Scheidel, Boulevard de Sébastopol 76.

"Articles de voyage": Censier Fils, Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière 29.

Artificial flowers: Constantin, Rue d'Antin 7.

Bijouterie en imitation: Mourier, Boulevard des Italiens 6.

Bootmaker: Roche, Rue Richelieu 69.

Boots ready-made: Aux Quatre Diables, Rue Auber 1; Aux Docks
de Bordeaux, Boulevard Sébastopol 17.

Bronze models of celebrated antiques: Barbedienne et Cie., Boulevard
Poissonnière 30.

Bronzes etc.: Susse Frères, Place de la Bourse 31.

Giroux, Boulevard des Capucines 43.

Roussel, Place Vendôme 26.

Denière, Rue Vivienne 15.

Cabinet-maker: Tahan, Rue de la Paix 34.

Euler, Rue St. Louis 38, not expensive.

Cambric handkerchiefs: Chapron, Rue de la Paix 11.

Chocolate and tea: Marquis, Rue Vivienne 44.

Masson, Rue Richelieu 28 bis.

Cutlery: Touron, Rue Richelieu 101.

Dressmaker: Mme. Servol, Boulevard Montmartre 19.

Engravings: Goupil et Cie., Boulevard Montmartre 19.

Lecrivain, Galerie de Valois 184 (Palais Royal).

Fruiterers: Perron, Rue Vivienne 14.

Jourdain, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs 52, dried fruits.

Glovers: Boivin, Rue Castiglione 10.

Privat, Rue Neuve St. Augustin 49.

Rist, Boulevard des Capucines 9.

A la Tour de Nesle, Boulevard des Italiens 3.

Goldsmiths and Jewellers: Philippi, Rue Richelieu 19.

Dumont, Chaussée d'Antin 4.

Perrée, Chaussée d'Antin 8.

Morel et Cie., Rue Richelieu 62.

Hatters: Bandoni Fils, Rue Vivienne 26.

India-rubber wares: Guibal, Rue Vivienne 40.

Ladies' boots: Meier, Rue Tronchet 17; also at the shops in the
Rue du Dauphin, opposite to the garden of the Tuileries.

Millinery: numerous "Nouveautés" and "Modes" in the boulevards
and principal streets, the best with small display in the
windows; in the Passage du Saumon, less expensive. —
Madame Le Blanc, Rue Cherubini 3, can be recommended.

Money-changer: Cohen et Cie., Rue Rougemont 13.

Meyer, Veuve Spielmann, Rue Vivienne 26.

Opticians: Chevallier, Place du Pont Neuf 15.

Harweiler, Boulevard Montmartre 22.

Perfumery: Henri et Demarson, Boulevard Poissonnière 20.

Société Hygiénique, Boulevard des Italiens 11, and Rue
de Rivoli 79.

Piver, Boulevard de Strasburg 10, and Rue Vivienne 23.

Photographers: Carjat, Rue Pigal 62.

Reutlinger, Rue Richelieu 112.

Provision Warehouse: Cuvillier, Rue de la Paix 16.

Shawls: Biétry, Boulevard des Capucines 41.

Frainais-Gramagnac, Rue Richelieu 82.

Shirt-maker: Plessis Successeur, Passage des Panoramas 51.

Silk mercers: Compagnie Lyonnaise, Boulevard des Capucines 37.

Petit St. Thomas, Rue du Bac 27—33.

Grand Condé, Rue de Seine 85, 87.

Au Louvre, in the hotel of that name.

Silversmith: Wiese, Rue de l'Arbre Sec 48.

Stationery: Marion, Cité Bergère, Rue du Faubourg Montmartre.

Surgical instruments: Luer, Place de l'Ecole de Médicine 19.

Charrière, Rue de l'Ecole de Médicine 6.

Tailors: Alber et Keimel, Rue Richelieu 74.

Au Bon Pasteur, Rue Ste. Anne 49, and Rue Neuve des
Petits Champs 32.

Pappel, Rue de la Paix 6.

Umbrellas and parasols: Farge, Galerie Feydeau 6 (Passage des
Panoramas).

Bison, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs 39.

Nabrin, Galerie Vivienne 11.

Hartmann, Boulevard des Capucines 15.

Watches and clocks: Leroi et Fils, Palais Royal 13, 15.

Oudin, Palais Royal 52.

Wurtel, Passage Vivienne 38, 40.

Wines, see p. 18.

Those who desire to despatch their purchases at once to their
destination should secure the services of a goods-agent. M. Hoffmann,
Château d'Eau 100, and Mœricke and Camus, Rue du Faubourg
Poissonnière 25, may be mentioned as two respectable firms.

"Commissionnaires en marchandises" (E. Hofschulte, Rue d'Hauteville
17; Falcke and Döring, Passage des Petites Ecuries 20)
are agents through whose instrumentality extensive purchasers
(over 500 fr.) are enabled to obtain goods at wholesale prices.

V. History and Statistics.

At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Cæsar, the
Parisii were a tribe settled on the banks of the Sequana or
Seine, and their chief town was Lutetia, situated on the present
island of La Cité.

The first event worthy of mention was the introduction of
Christianity by St. Denis the Areopagite, who, according to tradition,
suffered martyrdom on Montmartre about the year 250.

Constantius Chlorus is said to have founded the Palais des
Thermes (p. 135) between 292 and 306.

Julian resided at Lutetia in 360. The name of the town was
then changed to Parisii and political franchises granted to it.

In the vicinity of Paris. Gratian was defeated and slain by
Maximus in 383.

Clovis, son of Childeric, king of Tournay, finally expelled
the Romans about the year 496, embraced Christianity and became
the founder of the Merovingian dynasty. He erected a church to
St. Peter and St. Paul, which he subsequently dedicated to Ste.
Geneviève who died in his reign. Few of the monarchs of this
or the subsequent dynasty resided at Paris.

Pepin, in 752, was the founder of the second or Carlovingian
dynasty.

Charlemagne, 768.

Louis I. (Le Débonnaire), 814.

Charles II. (Le Chauve), 840. Paris sacked by the Normans,
857. — The subsequent monarchs neglected the city and, when
it was again attacked by the Normans in 885, left it to its own
resources. This dynasty was therefore deposed and the crown
given to Count Odo, who had been instrumental in repelling
the Normans. Under his descendant

Hugh Capet, 987, the city rapidly increased in magnitude,
and a palace, the present Palais de Justice, was commenced.

Robert (Le Pieux), 996.

Henry I., 1031. French crusades under Godfrey de Bouillon.

Philip I., 1060.

Louis VI. (Le Gros), 1108, founded a palace on the site of
the Louvre.

Louis VII. (Le Jeune), 1137. His divorced wife, Eleanor of
Guienne and Poitou, married Henry Plantagenet, afterwards
Henry II. of England. Foundation-stone of Notre Dame laid by
Pope Alexander III. 1163. Suger, abbot of St. Denis, the king's
minister.

Philip II. (Auguste), 1180, considerably extended the city
and surrounded it with a wall and turrets. Third Crusade, 1189.
The English, Flemish and German troops defeated at Bouvines,
1214.

Louis VIII. (Le Lion). 1223.

Louis IX. (St. Louis), 1226. Crusades to Egypt and Tunis
Paris obtains various municipal advantages. The University founded
by Robert Sorbon, 1250.

Philip III. (Le Hardi), 1270.

Philip IV. (Le Bel), 1285, founded several courts of justice.
He caused the transfer of the papal residence to Avignon, and
in 1307 abolished the order of Knights Templar.

Louis X. (Le Hutin), 1314.

Philip V. (Le Long), 1316.

Charles IV. (Le Bel), 1322, died without issue. The House
of Valois succeeds.

Philip VI., 1328. War with England, 1338. Battle of
Crécy, 1346.

John II. (Le Bon). 1350; defeated and taken prisoner by the
English at Maupertuis, 1356. Peace of Bretigny, 1360.

Charles V. (Le Sage). 1361, founded the Royal Library, the
Bastille and the Palais des Tournelles. The city extended and
re-fortified. The English expelled by Bertrand du Guesclin.

Charles VI., 1380, became insane twelve years afterwards.
The French conquered by Henry V. of England at Azincourt,
1415. Paris occupied by the English, 1421.

Charles VI., 1422. The siege of Orleans raised by Joan
of Arc, 1429. The English expelled. Paris desolated by famine
and plague.

Louis XI., 1461. Introduction of printing and establishment
of post-office.

Charles VIII., 1483; conquered Naples, 1495.

Louis XII., "Le Père du peuple", 1498, first king of the
younger branch of the House of Valois, conquered Milan and, in
conjunction with the Spaniards, Naples. Having quarrelled with
the latter, he was defeated by them on the Garigliano in 1503,
on which occasion Bayard was present. The League of Cambrai
formed for the purpose of expelling the Venetians from the mainland
of Italy. The Venetians conquered at Agnadello, 1509.
The French defeated at Ravenna, 1512.

Francis I., 1515. The city was probably more considerably
altered and improved in this than in any of the preceding
reigns. Numerous new edifices erected, churches repaired and
fortifications extended. Palace of the Louvre and Hôtel de Ville
commenced. Wars with the emperor Charles V. Francis defeated
and taken prisoner at Pavia, 1525.

Henry II., 1547, husband of Catherine de Médicis, accidentally
killed at a tournament (p. 35). Final expulsion of the
English.

Francis II., 1559, husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland.

Charles IX., 1560. The Tuileries erected. Massacre of
St. Bartholomew, August 24th., 1572.

Henry III., 1574, brother of his two predecessors, assassinated
at St. Cloud by Jacques Clément, a Dominican friar.

Henry IV., 1589, first monarch of the House of Bourbon,
conquered the Roman Catholic League at Arques in 1589, and at
Ivry in 1590, became a Roman Catholic in 1593, besieged and
captured Paris in 1594. Sully his minister. Religious toleration
granted by the Edict of Nantes. Henry divorced from Margaret
of Valois in 1599. married Marie de Médicis the following year;
assassinated by Ravaillac 1610. The metropolis greatly embellished
during this reign. The Pont Neuf completed, additions made
to the Louvre and Tuileries.

Louis XIII., 1610, banished his mother Marie de Médicis,
who died at Cologne in 1642. Richelieu his minister (d. 1642).
English fleet defeated at Rhé, 1627; La Rochelle taken from the
Huguenots. The Palais Cardinal (now Royal) commenced by
Richelieu, and the Luxembourg by Marie de Médicis. New bridges,
quays and streets constructed. Jardin des Plantes laid out.

Louis XIV., 1643, under the regency of his mother, Anne
of Austria. Ministers: Mazarin (d. 1661), Louvois (d. 1691) and
Colbert (d. 1683). Generals: Turenne (d. 1675), Condé (d. 1686),
Marshal Luxembourg (d. 1695).

War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Condé
defeated the Spaniards at Rocroy, 1643, and at Lens in Holland
in 1645. Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the Pyrenees, 1659.

Louis married Maria Theresa, 1660. Part of Flanders conquered,
1667. Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 1668. — War with
Holland, 1672. Peace of Nymwegen, 1678. Strasbourg occupied,
1681. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685. Devastation of
the Palatinate. The French fleet conquered by the English at
La Hogue, 1692. Peace of Ryswyk, 1697.

Spanish war of succession, 1701; the French frequently defeated
by Marlborough and Prince Eugene. Peace of Utrecht and
Rastadt, 1714.

During this reign upwards of eighty new streets and thirty-three
churches were constructed. Hôtel des Invalides, Observatory
and the colonnade of the Louvre completed. Collège Mazarin,
Gobelins, triumphal arches etc. commenced. Fortifications converted
into boulevards.

Louis XV., 1715, under the regency of the Duke of Orleans.
Polish and Austrian wars of succession. Seven years' war with
England. Successes of Frederick the Great and Ferdinand Duke
of Brunswick against the French; battles of Rossbach, Crefeld,
Minden etc.

The Pantheon, Ecole Militaire, Palais du Corps Législatif,
Hôtel des Monnaies and many other important buildings were
erected during this reign. Jardin des Plantes extended.

Louis XVI., 1774.

1789. Assembly of the States General at Versailles, May 5th.
Formation of the National Assembly, June 17th. Storming of
the Bastille, July 14th. Confiscation of ecclesiastical property,
Nov. 2nd.

1790. National féte in the Champ de Mars.

1791. The Emigration. The king and royal family escape
from Paris, but are intercepted at Varennes, June 20th.

1792. War with Austria, April 20th. Storming of the Tuileries,
Aug. 10th. The king arrested, Aug. 13th. The National
Convention opened and royalty abolished, Sept. 21st. Republic
proclaimed Sept. 25th.

1793. Louis XVI. beheaded, Jan. 20th. Republican reckoning
of time introduced, Sept. 22nd[1] . Reign of Terror. The queen
beheaded, Oct. 16th. Worship of Reason introduced, Nov. 10th.
Loss of Belgium.

1794. Robespierre's fall and execution, July 28th. Jourdan's
victory at Fleurus. Belgium reconquered.

1795. Conquest of Holland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander
of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Danican,
Oct. 3rd. Directory established, Oct. 28th.

1796. Bonaparte's successes in Italy (Milan, Arcole, Rivoli,
Mantua etc.).

1797. Peace of Campo Formio. Change in the Directory
caused by the "Revolution of 18th Fructidor", Sept. 4th.

1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pyramids, July 21st.
Defeated by Nelson in the battle of the Nile, Aug. 1st.

1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney
Smith. Victory of Aboukir, July 25th. Fall of the Directory
Nov. 9th. Bonaparte First Consul, Dec. 25th.

1800. Bonaparte's passage of the St Bernard, May 13th. Victories
at Piacenza, Montebello and Marengo. Moreau victorious
at Hohenlinden, Dec. 3rd.

1801. Peace of Lunéville with Germany, Feb. 9th.

1802. Peace of Amiens with England, March 27th.

1804. Napoleon Bonaparte proclaimed Emperor, May 18th.
Coronation by Pope Pius VII., Dec. 2nd.

1805. Renewal of war with Austria. Battle of Austerlitz, Dec. 2nd.
Peace of Pressburg, Dec. 26th.

1806. War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstaedt. Entry
into Berlin, Oct. 27th.

1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Battles of Eylau and
Friedland. Treaty of Tilsit, July 8th.

1808. War in Spain.

1809. Conquest of Saragossa Renewed war with Austria.
Battle of Eckmühl. Vienna entered, May 13th. Battle of Wagram.
Peace of Vienna, Oct. 14th.

1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise, daughter of
Francis II. of Austria, March 11th.

1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and
the Moskowa. Moscow entered, Sept. 15th. Retreat commenced
Oct. 19th. Passage of the Beresina — Wellington's victory of
Salamanca.

1813. Battles of Lützen, Dresden, Leipsic, Hanau etc.

1814. Battles of Brienne, Montmirail, Laon, Arcis sur Aube,
and Paris. Entrance of the allies into Paris, March 31st. Abdication
of the emperor, April 11th. Departure for Elba, May 4th.
First Treaty of Paris, May 30th.

The frightful scenes of devastation which were enacted during
the revolution, especially in 1793, need hardly be adverted to;
they were, however, beneficial in sweeping away the overgrown
conventual establishments, which occupied the best sites and one-third
of the area of the city. Under the Directory the museum
of the Louvre was commenced. Vast improvements were effected
under Napoleon; the mean buildings which formerly occupied the
Place du Carrousel were demolished; the N. gallery between the
Louvre and the Tuileries and the handsome Rue de Rivoli were
commencéd; new streets, spacious markets, three bridges, quays,
canals etc. constructed; numerous fountains and monuments erected;
churches restored and embellished; the Bourse and other public
edifices founded.

1814. The Restoration. Louis XVIII. king.

1815. Napoleon's return from Elba. Battles of Ligny and
Waterloo. Second entrance of the allies into Paris, July 7th.
Napoleon banished to St. Helena where he died (May 5th, 1821).

1823. Spanish campaign.

1824. Charles X.

1830. Conquest of Algiers. Revolution of July. Louis Philippe
elected king, Aug. 7th.

1848. Revolution of February. Republic. Sanguinary conflicts
in Paris, June 23rd to 26th. Louis Napoleon elected
President.

1851. Dissolution of the Assemblée Législative, Dec. 2nd.

Civic improvements progressed comparatively slowly under
Louis XVIII. and Charles X. Under Louis Philippe they were
resumed with fresh vigour. Many handsome new streets were
opened, churches and public edifices completed, vast works undertaken
for the drainage of the city, new bridges and quays constructed,
gardens and squares laid out etc. at an outlay exceeding
100 million francs.

1852. Napoleon III., Emperor, elected by universal suffrage
(plébiscite), Dec. 2nd.

Probably no city in the world has ever witnessed such gigantic
improvements as Paris under the present régime. Dense masses

of houses and numerous tortuous streets have been replaced by
broad boulevards, spacious squares and palatial edifices. Public
works of colossal magnitude have been undertaken, whilst those
commenced in former reigns have been brought to a successful
completion. Embellishments on the most extensive scale have
been effected in the public parks and gardens, and, what is of
incalculable importance, the city is now thoroughly well drained,
lighted, paved and supplied with water.

Population. According to the latest census Paris contains
1,696,141 (665,000 in 1788) souls, of whom 80,000 are Germans
and 5000 English. About one-third of the births are illegitimate.
The number of Protestants is estimated at 62,000, Jews 20,000,
dissentient 30,000, the remainder being Roman Catholics

Extent. The circumference of Paris is upwards of 21 miles;
its area 19,280 acres, or about 30 sq. miles. The Boulevard de
Sébastopol, the longest street, is about 2 M. in length.

Revenues. The budget of the city of Paris for 1865 amounted
to 155,590,040 fr, the expenditure being the same as the receipts.
The following items deserve mention. For educational purposes
4,473,101 fr.; street-cleaning 12,847,900 fr.; drainage, pavement,
gas etc. 22,447,595 fr. Paris at present contains 503 elementary
schools, 293 of which are conducted by lay and 210 by ecclesiastical
superintendents. The number of pupils amounts to 94,630. The
inner boulevards, one of the most frequented thoroughfares in
Paris, are daily traversed by 24,099 horses, and 32,052 daily pass
through the former Barrière de l'Etoile, leading to the Bois de
Boulogne. Since 1859 the water-conduits have been extended
by upwards of 67,000 mètres (41⅗ M.), the drains 39,000 mètres
(24⅕ M.). A sum of 4,752,000 fr. was also expended in 1865
for architectural and ornamental purposes, 9,000,000 fr. for improving
the streets, and 25,177,846 fr. for the construction of
public edifices, to be erected with the support of the government.
The total receipts of the five years 1859—64 amounted to
843,032,316 fr., the total expenditure to 832,530,330 fr. The
annual interest of the civic debt was 13,589,363 fr.

VI. Distribution of Time.

A sojourn of a fortnight or three weeks in Paris may suffice
to convey to the visitor a superficial idea of the innumerable objects
of attraction which the city contains, whilst a residence of
several months alone would enable him thoroughly to explore its
vast treasures of art and industry. The following plan, which is
topographically arranged, will be found to facilitate the movements
and economize the time of the visitor.

1st Day. General survey (p. 31). Walk in the boulevards
(p. 33), *Place de la Concorde (p. 78), Champs Elysées (p. 82)
and Palais Royal (p. 47).

2nd Day. **Galleries of the Louvre (p. 50). Vendôme column
(p. 40), *Madeleine (p. 109) and Chapelle Expiatoire (p. 42).

3rd Day. *St. Germain l'Auxerrois (p. 105). Second visit to
the Louvre. Place Napoléon and Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
(p. 74). *Jardin des Tuileries (p. 77).

4th Day. Palais de Justice and *Sainte Chapelle (p. 94).
*Hôtel de Ville (p. 92). *Notre Dame (p. 104). Morgue (p. 99).

5th Day. St. Roch (p. 108). Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers
(p. 102). St. Merry and *St. Eustache (p. 107).

6th Day. Palais de l'Industrie (p. 83). *Arc de l'Etoile (p. 85).
Chapelle St. Ferdinand (p. 87). Bois de Boulogne (p. 89).

7th Day. Père Lachaise (p. 113). *July Column (p. 35).
Place Royale (p. 35).

8th Day. **Jardin des Plantes (p. 141). *Gobelins (p. 145).

9th Day. *Jardin du Luxembourg (p. 133). **Modern pictures
in the Luxembourg (p. 128). *Pantheon (p. 138). Library
of Ste. Geneviève (p. 140). *St. Etienne du Mont (p. 163).

10th Day. *Musée des Thermes et de l'Hôtel de Cluny
(p. 135). Hôtel des Monnaies (p. 148), *Ecole des Beaux Arts
(p. 150). St. Germain des Prés (p. 162). *St. Sulpice (p. 162).
Walk through the Quartier Latin (p. 14).

11th Day. *Ste. Clotilde (p. 165). *Hôtel des Invalides and
**Napoleons Tomb (p. 155). Blind Institution (p. 160). Champ
de Mars (p. 159).

12th Day. *Montmartre (p. 122). *Cemetery of Montmartre
(p. 123). By omnibus to St. Denis (p. 189), and back by railway,
*St. Vincent de Paul (p. 111). *Notre Dame de Lorette (p. 110).

13th and 14th Days. **Versailles (p. 168).

15th Day. *St. Cloud and Sèvres (p. 185). *St. Germain-enLaye
(p. 187).

16th Day. *Fontainebleau (p. 196).

If the elements be unusually propitious at the commencement
of the stranger's sojourn, he should at once embrace the opportunity
of visiting the beautiful environs of Paris (days 12-16);
or these excursions may be interspersed among the other sights
according to circumstances.

Excursions to Versailles, St. Cloud, Sèvres and St. Germain-enLaye
may also thus be combined. On the way to Versailles (rive
gauche), an hour may be devoted to Sèvres; in returning (rive
droite), the park of St. Cloud may be visited from the Ville
d'Avray station, after which the stranger proceeds on foot to the
bridge at Boulogne, whence omnibuses start every 10 min. for
Paris (or a walk through the Bois de Boulogne may be preferred).
If a second visit be paid to Versailles, Paris should be quitted
by the first train in the morning, in order to allow time for the
inspection of the gardens (and the Trianons) before the opening
of the museum. Omnibus from Versailles to St. Germain by

Marly (p. 188) every afternoon in 1 hr. The evening may then
be most agreeably spent on the terrace of St. Germain, where a
military band frequently plays.

The appended list indicates the days and hours when the
different collections etc. are accessible. The early morning and
the afternoon may be most suitably devoted to the churches and
cemeteries which are open the whole day, to the Champs Elysées,
the Jardin des Tuileries, the Jardin des Plantes and the Jardin
du Luxembourg; the evening to the theatres, concerts etc. Monday
may generally be spent in this way, as the principal collections
are then closed. The animated scene presented by the
boulevards may best be witnessed from 4 to 6 in the afternoon,
before dinner.

It is a wise precaution never to sally forth without a passport,
or at least visiting-cards, which ensure admission to the
collections on days when the public are excluded.

The days and hours enumerated below, though at present
correct, are liable to occasional variations. Strangers are therefore
referred to Galignani's Messenger, the Saturday number of
which also affords information respecting the Church of England
and other Protestant services.

Collections etc.

Bibliothèque Ste. Geneviève (p. 140), daily 10—3 and 6 till
10 p. m.; closed from Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th.

*Blind Institution (p. 160), Wednesdays 1—5 (with passport
or card).

St. Cloud (p. 185), Sundays and Thursdays in absence of the
emperor.

*Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers (p. 102), industrial collections
open to the public Sundays and Thursdays 10—4; on other days
fee 1 fr.; closed on Mondays.

Deaf and Dumb Institution (p. 161), Saturdays 2—5.

*Ecole des Beaux Arts (p. 150), containing the celebrated
hemicycle painting of Paul Delaroche, daily 10—4, fee 1 fr.; in
Sept. on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays only.

Exchange (p. 38), daily; stockbrokers' business hours 1—3;
open till 5.

*Gobelins (p. 145), Wednesdays and Saturdays 2—4 (in winter
1—3), with passport, ticket or visiting-card.

*Hôtel de Ville (p. 92), Thursdays 12—4, by special permission.

*Hôtel des Invalides (p. 155) and church daily. **Napoleon's
Tomb, Mondays without, Thursdays with passport or visiting-card,
12—3. Military mass on Sundays at 12, followed by parade.

Hôtel des Monnaies (p. 148), collection of coins, Tuesdays
and Fridays 12—3.

*Jardin d'Acclimatation (p. 91), daily from an early hour in
the morning till dusk, adm. 1 fr.

**Jardin des Plantes (p. 141), botanical the whole day, zoological
10—6, in winter 11 till dusk; nat. hist. collections open
to the public on Tuesdays and Thursdays 2—5 (in winter till 4)
and Sundays 1—5 (in winter till 4), by ticket on Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays 11—2; hothouses, by ticket on Mondays,
Wednesdays and Thursdays 10—2 and 3—6; inspection of
the cages, by ticket daily 1—4.

**Louvre Galleries (p. 50), daily with passport or card 10—12,
open to the public 12—4, Sundays 10—4. Closed on Mondays.

**Luxembourg (p. 128), modern paintings and sculptures, same
hours as the Louvre.

Musée d'Artillerie (p. 153), open to the public on Thursdays
12—4.

*Musée des Thermes et de l'Hôtel de Cluny (p. 135), open
to the public on Sundays 11—4, with passport or card on Wednesdays,
Thursdays and Fridays 12—4.

Palais du Corps Législatif (p. 152), picture-gallery daily, with
permission of the president, except during the sessions.

*Palais de Justice (p. 94), daily sessions of the different
courts 11—3, Sundays and Mondays excepted.

**Versailles. Musée Historique (p. 168), daily 11—5 (in winter
till 4); closed on Mondays.

Diary.

(To be compared with the preceding alphabetical list.)

Daily. Menagery in the Jardin des Plantes 10—6, in winter
11 till dusk. — Hôtel des Invalides. — Bibliothèque St. Geneviève
10—3 and 6—10 p. m. — Palais du Corps Législatif, see
above. — Ecole des Beaux Arts 10—4. — Bourse 1—3. —
Palais de Justice, sessions 11—3 (Sundays and Mondays excepted).

Sunday. Louvre and Luxembourg 10—4. — Conservatoire
des Arts et Métiers 10—4. — Musée des Thermes et de l'Hôtel
de Cluny 11—4. — Hôtel des Invalides, military mass at 12,
followed by parade. — Museum and gardens of Versailles 11—5.

Monday. Jardin des Plantes; hothouses, by ticket 10—2 and
3—6. — Napoleon's Tomb 12—3. — Grand Opéra (p. 26). — Museums of the Louvre, Luxembourg and Versailles closed.

Tuesday. Louvre and Luxembourg 10—4 (10—22 with passport
or card). — Jardin des Plantes, collections 2—5, by ticket
also 11—2. — Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers 11—5, adm.
1 fr. — Hôtel des Monnaies 12—3. — Versailles 11—5.

Wednesday. Louvre and Luxembourg 10—4 (15—12 with
passport or card). — Jardin des Plantes; hothouses, by ticket

10—2 and 3—6. — Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers 11—5,
adm. 1 fr. — Musée des Thermes et de l'Hôtel de Cluny 12—4,
with passport or card. — Gobelins 2—4, with passport or card.
— Blind Institution 1—5, with passport or card. — Grand Opéra
(p. 26). — Horse-market after 1 (p. 19). Versailles 11—5.

Thursday Louvre and Luxembourg 10 —4 (10—12 with
passport or card). — Jardin des Plantes, collections 2—5, by
ticket also 11—2; hothouses, by ticket 10—2 and 3—6. — Musée
des Thermes et de l'Hôtel de Cluny 12—4, with passport or
card. — Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers 10—4. — Musée de
l'Artillerie 12—4. — Hôtel de Ville, by special permission
12—4. — Napoleon's Tomb 12—3, with passport or card. —
Versailles 11—5.

Friday. Louvre and Luxembourg 10—4 (10—12 with passport
or card). — Musée des Thermes et de l'Hôtel de Cluny
12—4, with passport or card. — Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers
11—5, adm. 1 fr. — Hôtel des Monnaies 12—3. — Grand
Opéra (p. 26). — Versailles 11—5.

Saturday. Louvre and Luxembourg 10—4 (10—12 with passport
or card). — Jardin des Plantes; collections, by ticket 11—2.
— Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers 11—5, adm. 1 fr. — Gobelins
2—4, with passport or card. — Versailles 11—5. — Deaf
and Dumb Institution 2—5.

VII. Weights and Measures.

(In use since 1799.)

The English values of the French weights and measures are
given approximately.

Millier = 1000 kilogrammes = 19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz.

Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 2⅕ lbs avoirdupois =
2 7/10 lbs troy.

Quintal = 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 230 lbs.

Hectogramme (1/10 kilogramme) = 10 décagrammes = 100 gr.
= 1000 décigrammes.

Myriamètre = 10,000 mètres = 6⅕ Engl. miles.

Kilomètre = 1000 mètres = 5 furlongs.

Hectomètre = 10 décamètres = 100 mètres.

Mètre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the spherical
distance from the equator to the pole = 3,0784
(about 3 1/13 Paris feet = 1 yd. 3⅓ in.

Décimètre (1/10 mètre) = 10 centimètres = 100 millimètres.

Hectare (square hectomètre) = 100 ares = 10,000 sq. mètres
2½ acres.

Are (square décamètre) = 100 sq. mètres.

Déciare = 1/10 are = 10 sq. mètres.

Centiare = 1/100 are = 1 sq. mètre.

Hectolitre = 1/10 cube mètre = 100 litres = 22 gallons.

Décalitre = 1/100 cube mètre = 10 litres = 2⅕ gals.

Litre, unit of capacity, = 1¾ pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts.

The following terms of the old system of measurements are
still occasionally employed:

Livre = ½ kilogramme = 1 1/10 lb.

Pied = ⅓ mètre = 13 in.

Aune = 1⅕ mètre = 1 yd. 11 in.

Toise = 1 9/10 mètre = 2 yds. 4 in.

Lieue = 2½ miles.

Arpent = 1 1/25 acre.

Setier = 1½ hectolitre = 33 gals.

The thermometers commonly used in France are the Centigrade
and Réaumur's. The freezing point on both of these is
marked 0°, the boiling-point of the former 100°, of the latter 80°.
It may easily be remembered that 5° Centigrade = 4° Réaumur
= 9° Fahrenheit. In converting degrees of the Centigrade or
Réaumur into degrees of Fahrenheit, 32° must be added to the
result for temperatures above freezing; for lower temperatures the
result must be subtracted from 32°.

VIII. General Remarks on N. France.

The majority of visitors to Paris will find comparatively little
to interest them in the provinces of N. France. The scenery is
seldom of so attractive a character as to induce a prolonged
sojourn, whilst the towns are on a small scale mere repetitions
of the metropolis. The taste of the present day for improvement,
which has been so strongly developed and so magnificently
gratified in Paris, has similarly manifested itself in the provincial
towns. Broad and straight streets with attractive shop-windows
are rapidly superseding old and crooked lanes; whole quarters of
towns are demolished, and large, regular squares take their place;
ramparts of ancient fortifications are converted into boulevards,
faintly resembling those at Paris. Admirably adapted as this
utilitarian bias doubtless is to the requirements of the 19th
century, it cannot but be profoundly regretted that the few characteristic
remnants of antiquity which survived the storms of the
wars of the Huguenots and the great Revolution, and have hitherto
resisted the mighty centralizing influence of the metropolis, are
now rapidly vanishing. Those who were acquainted with such

towns as Rouen and Angers ten years ago will now become
painfully aware of this fact.

The towns of France generally present less variety than those
of most other countries. They almost invariably rejoice in their
boulevards, glass-arcades, jardins des plantes, theatres and cafés,
all feeble reproductions of the great Parisian models. Each also
possesses its museum of natural history, interesting perhaps to
the professional visitor, its collection of casts and antiquities and
its picture-gallery, the latter usually consisting of a few modern
pictures and a considerable number of mediocre works of the
17th and 18th centuries.

The magnificent churches, however, which most of these towns
possess, offer attractions not to be disregarded by even the most
hasty traveller. The Gothic style, which originated in France
has here attained a high degree of perfection, especially in Normandy,
a district of so great importance in the middle ages.
Architects will here find abundant material for the most attractive
studies, and even the amateur cannot fail to be impressed by the
gems of Gothic architecture, such as St. Ouen at Rouen or the
cathedral of Chartres, notwithstanding the alterations which most
of them have undergone. The Huguenots made deplorable havoc
in the interiors of the churches, and the Revolution followed their
example and converted the sacred edifices into "Temples of Reason."
The task of restoring and preserving these noble monuments has
recently been commenced and is now everywhere progressing.

Railways. A complete network connects Paris with the
most important provincial towns. The trains from Paris run on
the left, those to Paris on the right line of rails. It should
also be observed that passengers always alight on the left side.
The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cl. 18 c.,
2nd cl. 13½, 3rd cl. 10 c. The express trains ("trains express")
generally convey first class passengers only. The first class
carriages are inferior to those of other parts of the continent and
resemble those on most of the English lines; the same remark
generally applies to the second class also. Smoking is prohibited
if any one of the passengers object, unless, as rarely happens,
the coupé is specially set apart for the purpose.

Tickets for intermediate stations are given up at the "sortie";
those for termini, before the station is entered. Luggage to the
weight of 30 kilogrammes (66 Engl. lbs.) is free; 10 c. is charged
for booking. The railway-porters (facteurs) are not entitled to
remuneration, but it is usual to give a few sous for their services.

Public omnibuses convey passengers to and from the Parisian
stations, to which a few only of the hotels send their own
vehicles. Fare 30—40 c., luggage 20—30 c. more. The traveller's
taste for light literature may be gratified by a purchase at the
book-stalls at the stations. The principal newspapers are sold

at 5—10 c. more here than in the town. The Petit Journal and
Journal pour Tous cost 5 c. only.

Hotels of the highest class and fitted up with modern accessories
to comfort are encountered only in such towns as Havre,
Rouen, Dieppe, Tours etc., where the influx of visitors is very
great. In other places the inns generally retain their primitive
provincial characteristics, which, were it not for the frequent
absence of cleanliness, would prove rather an attraction than
otherwise. Usual charges at houses of the latter description:
R. 1½—2 fr., L. 25—50 c., A. 50 c. As a rule the table
d'hôte dinner (3—4 fr.) at 5. 30 or 6 o'clock is recommended,
as a tolerable repast is not easily procured at other places or
hours. The déjeuner (1½—2 fr.) at 10 or 11 o'clock will
generally be regarded as superfluous by the English traveller,
especially as it consumes a considerable space of time during
the best part of the day. A slight luncheon at a café, which may
be partaken of at any hour, thus leaving the traveller entire
master of his own time, will be found far more convenient and
expeditious. In southern districts, as on the Loire, wine is
usually included in the charge for dinner. In Normandy a
species of cider is frequently drunk in addition to, or as a
substitute for wine. The usual fee for attendance at hotels is 1 fr.
per diem, if no charge is made in the bill; if service is charged,
50 c. per diem in addition is generally expected. At the cafés
also the waiters expect a trifling gratuity, but the obnoxious
system is not carried to such an extent as in the metropolis.

The Churches, especially the more important, are open the
whole day. As, however, divine service is usually celebrated in the
morning and evening, visitors will find the middle of day or afternoon
the most favourable time for their inspection. The attendance of
the sacristan, or "Suisse", is generally superfluous; usual gratuity
½ fr., unless the contrary is stated in the following pages.

The Museums are open to the public on Sundays and
Thursdays from 12 to 4 o'clock and are often crowded. Visitors
may always obtain access at other times for a gratuity (1 fr.).
Catalogues may be borrowed from the concierge.

The most trustworthy information with regard to the departure
of trains is contained in the Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,
published weekly and sold (40 c.) at all the stations.

Railway time is always that of Paris, which in many places
differs considerably from the real time. Thus the Strasbourg time
is 23 min. before, that of Brest 27 min. behind railway time.

Considerable English communities are resident in many of
the towns mentioned in the following pages and opportunities of
attending English churches are frequent (e. g. at Calais, Boulogne,
St. Omer, Dieppe, Havre, Rouen, Caen, Tours etc.).