University of Virginia Library

C. ROUTES FROM PARIS TO THE RHINE
AND SWITZERLAND.

48. From Paris to Cologne.

a. Direct Route by Namur and Liège.

By Express (viâ Compiêgne, St. Quentin and Haumont) from the
Station du Nord in 12 hrs., by ordinary trains in 15—18 hrs.; fares 58 fr.
95 c. and 43 fr. 90 c. The luggage of passengers provided with through-tickets
is examined on their arrival at Cologne. First-class passengers only
are conveyed by the express trains. The second-class carriages of the French
and Belgian lines are far inferior in comfort to those of the German
railways.

At Creil (p. 208) the trains for Boulogne, Calais and Brussels
diverge from the direct line from Paris to Cologne.

Compiègne (*La Cloche; Hôtel de France; Soleil d'Or) has
for centuries been a favourite residence of the monarchs of France.
The Château (accessible on Sundays during the absence of the
imperial family), erected by Louis XV., was considerably enlarged
by Napoleon I., who here received his bride Marie Louise. The
extensive forest, which covers an area of 40,000 acres, was a favourite
resort of Charles X. and is annually visited by the present
emperor, whose partiality for field-sports is well known. The
town itself (12,137 inhab) contains little to interest the traveller,
with the exception of the handsome Hôtel de Ville, a late Gothic
edifice, and the churches of St. Jacques and St. Antoine. Near
the bridge is an ancient, dilapidated tower, where, May 25th
1430, Joan of Arc was taken prisoner by the Burgundians. She
had conducted a sally from the town, which was besieged by the
duke, but as she was about to re-enter it, the portenllis was
dropped by the commandant who was jealous of her reputation
and she was thus betrayed to her enemies.

Noyon, the next station of importance, possesses an interesting
church of the 12th or 13th cent. Birthplace of Calvin (1509)
the house still exists.

Chauny, a small but ancient town, is partly situated on at
island in the Oise, which is here connected with St. Quentin by
means of a canal. (St. Gobain, 12 M. to the E., contains the
most extensive manufactory of mirrors in France.) At Tergnier is a
vast establishment for the construction of locomotives and railway
carriages. A branch line here diverges to Rheims and Epernay
(p. 253). — About 12 M. to the W. of Montescourt stands the
castle of Ham, where the ministers of Charles X. were confined
during 6 years after the revolution of July, 1830. Louis Napo-
leon was also imprisoned here after the unsuccessful descent upon

Boulogne in 1840, as were the generals Changarnier, Lamoricière,
Cavaignac and others, after the coup d'état of Dec. 2nd, 1851.

St. Quentin (*Hôtel du Cygne), a fortified town on the Somme,
with a population of 31,790, the Augusta Veromanduorum of the
Romans, is one of the most important linen and cotton manufacturing
towns in France. It is connected with the Scheldt by
means of a canal, and derives its supplies of coal from the extensive
mines of Hainault. The Church is a pure Gothic structure
and well merits attention. The Hôtel de Ville, dating from
the 15th cent., is in the same style as the beautiful Belgian
town-halls of the same period. Here, in 1557, the great battle
between the Spaniards with their English, German and Flemish
auxiliaries, under the Duke of Savoy, and the French, under
Coligny and the Constable Montmorency, was fought, in which
the latter were signally defeated.

At stat. Haumont the most direct line from Paris to Brussels
diverges. The preceding stat. Landrecies and the following stat.
Maubeuge are two small French fortresses.

Jeumont is the last French and Erquelines the first Belgian
station. Thuin is picturesquely situated on an eminence. A more
interesting district, through which the Sambre winds, is now
entered.

Charleroi (Pays Bas, Grand Monarque), the most modern
town in Belgium was founded by Charles II. of Spain about the
middle of the 17th cent. It is connected with Brussels by means
of a canal, an important means of communication in this animated
and industrial district. The railway to Brussels also diverges here.

The train now passes several stations with extensive foundries
and frequently crosses the Sambre.

Namur (*Hôtel de Harscamp; *Hôtel de Hollande; *Bellevue)
the strongly fortified capital of this province of Belgium, with a
population of 24,716, is beautifully situated at the confluence of
the Meuse and Sambre. The town contains nothing particularly
worthy of mention. In the vicinity a sanguinary conflict took
place in 1815, a few days after the battle of Waterloo, between
French and Prussian troops. The cemetery contains a monument
to the memory of the Prussians who fell on the occasion.

Huy (Aigle Noir), which possesses a strong citadel and a fine
Gothic church, is in a remarkably picturesque situation. On an
eminence near Flémalle rises the castle of Chokier, and beyond it
that of Aigremont. Seraing is celebrated for its iron foundries,
coal mines etc. The train continues to follow the course of the
Meuse and soon reaches

Liége (Hôtels: *de Suède, R. 2½ fr. and upwards, D. 3 fr.; Bellevue;
de l'Europe; d'Angleterre; Schiller; railway restaurant
at the station), the picturesquely situated capital (89,411 inhab.)

of the Walloon district, gradually rising to a considerable height
above the river. The extensive manufactories of weapons, cutlery,
machines etc. consume a large proportion of the coal yielded by
the mines in the vicinity. The forest of lofty chimneys on the
height near the citadel afford abundant proof of the industrial
character of the district.

Travellers whose time is limited should confine their attention
to the Palais de Justice and the churches of St. Jacques and
St. Paul.

The Palais de Justice (Pl. 24), erected in 1523 in the Renaissance
style, possesses a remarkably peculiar, half Moorish colonnade.
Till 1792 it was the residence of the archbishops,
whose see had hitherto belonged to the German empire. The
N. wing, added in 1852 in the original style, is the Hôtel du
Gouvernement.

The Church of St. Paul (Cathédrale, Pl. 5) contains several
fine pictures and an admirably carved modern pulpit by Geefs.
The choir dates from the close of the 13th cent., the nave and
other parts were completed in 1557.

The Church of St. Jacques (Pl. 18) is a splendid example of
late Gothic, erected 1522—1538, and gorgeously decorated.

Soon after quitting Liége[1] , the train passes the extensive
zinc-foundry of the Vieille Montagne company. To the right, the
picturesque watering-place Chaudfontaine; to the left, the château
of La Rochette; r. Le Trooz, the château of Fraipont on an eminence,
Nessonvaux, the "Château des Masures" and Pepinster,
junction for Spa (½ hr.).

Verviers (Hôtel du Chemin de Fer; Pays Bas with a population
of nearly 30,000, consists almost exclusively of manufactories,
the residences of their owners and the habitations of the operatives,
and contains nothing to interest the traveller. — Carriages
changed here.

Near Dolhain, picturesquely situated in the valley of the
Vesdre, the ancient ruined fortress of Limburg is seen on an
eminence, the sole remnant of the once flourishing capital of the
duchy of that name.

Herbesthal is the Prussian frontier-station. Beyond it the
train passes through two tunnels and then descends to the ancient
imperial city of

Aix-la-Chapelle (Hôtels: *Dremel; *Nuellens; de l'Empereur;
Hoyer, moderate; at the station, Royal, Chemin de Fer and
Paris. — English Church in the Anna Strasse), with a population of
68,000. The Town-hall, erected in 1358, has been judiciously
restored and adorned with beautiful modern frescoes. — The

Cathedral, a portion of which was erected by Charlemagne in
796—804, is a most interesting monument of early Christian
architecture, but unfortunately disfigured by modern additions.
The tomb of Charlemagne (d. 814), indicated by the inscription
"Carolo Magno", situated in the centre of the octagonal portion
of the church, was opened by Otto II. in the year 1000. The
body of the great emperor was found seated on a marble throne,
which was afterwards employed for the coronation ceremonies, and
is still to be seen in the "Hochmünster" or gallery. The church
also contains many interesting relics and valuable ecclesiastical
vessels (fee 1 thlr. for 1—8 pers). — The Sulphur-baths of Aix
and the contiguous town of Burtscheid (or Borcette) are much
frequented.

Beyond Aix-la-Chapelle the district traversed is picturesque
and continues to present the same animated and industrial aspect.
After emerging from the long tunnel of Kœnigsdorf, the train
reaches the rich and fertile plain which extends from this point
to Cologne (see "Baedeker's Rhine").

b. From Paris to Cologne by Brussels.

The two principal lines connecting Paris and Brussels are: (1) Viâ Haumont,
Maubeuge and Mons; express in 6½ hrs.; fares 32 fr. 50, 24 fr. 35,
17 fr. 60 c.; (2) Viâ Amiens, Arras, Douai and Valenciennes; express in
9 hrs.; fares 37 fr. 55, 28 fr. 20, 19 fr. 45 c.

(1). As far as Haumont the line has been already described
in the previous route (a.). Feignies is the last French and Quéry
the first Belgian station. Stat. Mons is the next place of importance;
thence to Brussels see below.

(2). From Paris to Arras see R. 40.

l. Douai (Hôtel de Flandre), on the Scarpe, with 24,486 inhab.,
an ancient fortified town, is the first important station. The
Town Hall, with its Beffroi or belfry of five towers, is a fine
example of a Flemish civic edifice of the 15th cent. The vane
on the summit of the central tower is wielded by the lion of
Flanders. Douai is the seat of an important school of artillery
and possesses a foundry which furnishes a large proportion of
the guns employed by the French army.

At Douai the line to Courtrai, Lille and Ghent diverges.

After several minor stations the train passes near the valuable
coal-mines of Anzin, situated to the r. of the line, crosses the
Scheldt and reaches.

r. Valenciennes (Poste; *Hotel des Princes; *Railway Restaurant),
a very ancient fortified town, with 24,966 inhab., on the
Escaut, or Scheldt. The streets are narrow and dirty. The
Town Hall, in the Gothic combined with subsequent styles, is
perhaps the only edifice worthy of note. The Museum contains

several pictures by Rubens, the church of St. Gery a Descent
from the Cross by the same master.

Valenciennes formerly belonged to Hainault. It was unsuccessfully
besieged by Turenne in 1656. By the peace of Nymwegen
it was adjudged to France and newly fortified by Vauban. In
1793 the fortress succumbed to the united Austrian, English and
Hanoverian forces under the Prince of Coburg, but was recovered
by the French the following year.

r. Blanc-Misseron is the last French, Quiévrain the first Belgian
station.

l. St. Ghislain, the point of divergence of a line to Ghent,
is situated on the canal which conveys the valuable products of
the neighbouring coal-mines from Mons to Condé.

Near stat. Jemappes (3 M. to the W. of the line) General
Dumouriez and the Duc de Chartres (afterwards King Louis
Philippe) with 50,000 French defeated 22,000 Austrians under
the Duke of Coburg, Nov. 6th, 1792.

At Malplaquet (3 M. to the S.E. of Mons) Marlborough and
Prince Eugene, with a loss of 20,000 men, defeated the French
in 1700. In the vicinity, on May 18th, 1794, Pichegru defeated
the Duke of York and captured 60 guns and 1500 prisoners.

r. Mons (Hôtel Garin; Hôtel Royal), capital of Hainault, with
26,061 inhab., is indebted for its origin to a fort erected here
by Cæsar during his Gallic campaign. The emperor Joseph II.
caused the fortifications to be demolished, but the town was
strongly re-fortified in 1818. In 1861—62, however, the works
were again levelled and the materials conveyed to Antwerp.
Valuable coal-mines in the vicinity.

The Cathédrale de Ste. Waudru (St. Waltrudis) is the most
considerable edifice in Mons, situated to the l. as the town is
entered from the station. It was commenced in 1460 and completed
in 1589. It possesses a small, pointed Gothic spire, but
the principal tower was never completed. The exterior is somewhat
disfigured by modern additions, but the interior is a model
of boldness and elegance. Several reliefs in marble and tabernacle
deserve inspection. One of the lateral chapels contains a
quaint Resurrection; Christ is represented as stepping forward
from the picture. On the W. wall a new picture by Isendyk:
St. Waltrudis healing a sick man.

To the l. in the vicinity rises the Beffroi, on the highest site
in the town. The castle to which it belongs is now a lunatic
asylum, occupying the ground on which Cæsar's Castrum once stood.

The Town Hall, dating from the 15th cent., with a tower
subsequently added, is inferior in elegance of design to the similar
structures at Brussels, Louvain etc. — A large statue,
erected in 1853, perpetuates the memory of Orlando di Lasso

(Roland de Lattre), the celebrated composer, who was born at
Mons in 1530.

From stat. Jurbise a branch line diverges to Tournai and Courtrai.

l. Stat. Soignies, a town with 6500 inhab. possesses a monastery
(of St. Vincent) founded in the 7th cent. and erected in its present
form by St. Bruno, archbishop of Cologne, in 965, probably
the most ancient edifice in Belgium.

l. Braine-le-Comte, a small town of very ancient origin, at
some distance from the station, is the junction for Namur. Carriages
are sometimes changed here.

l. Hal (Hôtel des Pays Bas), a small town on the Senne and
the canal from Charleroi, is resorted to by pilgrims who revere
a picture of the Virgin in the Church of St. Mary, a fine Gothic
edifice. The high-altar, completed in 1583, is an admirable
specimen of the Renaissance style, executed in alabaster, adorned
with numerous reliefs. The bronze font of 1446 also merits
inspection. A monument in black marble, with a sleeping child,
is sacred to the memory of the Dauphin Joachim (d. 1460) son
of Louis XI.

A hilly district is now traversed and for some distance the
line skirts the canal to Charleroi. Near Forest the line crosses
the Senne and intersects a rich pastoral district, through which
the stream meanders. The ramparts of Brussels are soon crossed
near the Porte de Hal and the Station du Midi entered, situated
upwards of 1 M. from the Station du Nord.

Brussels. Hôtels in the Place Royale in the upper part of the town:
de Bellevue, *de Flandre, de l'Europe, all expensive. *Hôtel de
Suède, Rue de l'Evêque, R. 2½, D. 3½ fr.; *de Saxe and *de l'Univers
in the Rue Neuve, leading from the station into the town. —
Hôtel de Brabant, Marché aux Charbons, at the back of the Hôtel
de Ville.

Restaurants: *Allard, Rue Fossé aux Loups, near the theatre;
*Dubost, Rue de la Putterie, and many others.

Cafés: several in the Place de la Monnaie. Ices at Marugg's, Rue
Treurenberg, and Marchal, next door to the Théâtre du Parc.

Estaminets or beer-houses are very numerous. One of the best
is the Hôtel de la Monnaie, opposite the theatre. "Faro" is weak and acid,
"Louvain" similar, but sweeter. Bavarian beer at Puth's, Rue du Tir 20,
outside the gate of Namur; at the Prince Charles, Rue d'Aremberg 10, in
the rear of the Passage, etc.

Shops: the most attractive are in the Rue de la Madeleine and Montagne
de la Cour.

English Church Service at the Chapel Royal, Rue du Musée
(9 a. m. and 2 30 p. m.), at the Chapel in the Boulevard de l'Observatoire,
and at the Evangelical Chapel, Rue Belliard.

Brussels, the capital of Belgium and residence of the King,
contains a population of 236,000, including the suburbs, ⅔rds
of whom speak Flemish, ⅓rd French. Like Paris it possesses
its Café des Mille Colonnes, a counterpart of the Champs Elisées
and the Garden of the Tuileries in the Allée Verte and the Park,
its Boulevards, Café-chantants etc. This Paris in miniature should

be seen before the great French metropolis by those who desire
to avoid disappointment.

The passing visitor is recommended to take the following
walk: Adjacent to the Rue Neuve, which leads from the station
into the city, rises the *Martyrs' Monument (Pl. 25), designed
by Geefs and erected in 1838 to the memory of those who fell in
the war with Holland in 1830. The marble figure represents
"Belgium Delivered"; marble tablets in an open vault record the
names (445) of the slain.

Then past the Théâtre Royal to the *Hôtel de Ville
(Pl. 20), resembling that of Louvain; the magnificent façade
was completed in 1442; the statues of Dukes of Brabant, erected
in 1853, replace those mutilated by the sans-culottes in 1793.
The graceful tower, 364 ft. in height, is from some unknown
cause not in the centre of the edifice. The interior contains
nothing remarkable.

The entire square, or Grande Place, is adorned with handsome
mediæval buildings; on the W. side the various guild-houses,
erected at the beginning of last century. Here, on June 5th,
1568. Duke Alva witnessed the execution of the counts Egmont
and Hoorne from the Halle au Pain, or Maison du Roi as it is
commonly termed, opposite the Hôtel de Ville.

In the rear of the Hôtel de Ville, at the corner of the Rue
du Chêne and the Rue de l'Etuve, is the Manneken fountain
(Pl. 24), an object of veneration amongst the populace.

The *Passage, or Galerie St. Hubert, an arcade near
the Hôtel de Ville, diverging from the Rue de la Madeleine, is
a very favourite promenade. It is a handsome structure, 650 ft.
long, 60 ft. high and 25 ft. broad, and contains some of the
most tempting shops in the city.

The Rue de la Madeleine and its continuation, the Montagne
de la Cour, which ascend hence, present a succession of attractive
windows.

The latter terminates in the Place Royale, adorned with the
equestrian *Statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, in bronze,
executed by Simonis in 1848. It is said to stand on the spot
where the great crusader stood when he summoned a numerous
assembly of knights to aid him in the liberation of the Holy
Sepulchre.

The fresco in the tympanum of the opposite church of St.
Jacques sur Caudenberg (Pl. 11), painted by Portaels in 1852,
represents the Virgin as the consoler of the sorrowful.

The adjoining *Park, in Sept. 1830 a spot of great importance,
having been successfully maintained by the Dutch against the
Belgians who occupied the Place Royale, is the favourite promenade
of the citizens. On the S. side rises the Royal Palace

(Pl. 33), on the N. side the Palais de la Nation (Pl. 31), the
vestibule of which contains 6 modern statues of Belgian princes.

On the W. side of the park is the marble statue of the French
general Belliard (p. 117), by Geefs.

Hence to the *Cathedral (Ste. Gudule, Pl. 10), the finest
church in Brussels, with its two truncated Gothic towers. The
choir and transept are of the 13th, towers and nave of the 14th,
aisles of the 15th, the large S. Chapelle du St. Sacrament of the
15th cent.

The latter contains a *Monument in marble of Count F. de
Merode, who fell in a skirmish with the Dutch in 1830, executed
by Geefs.

The Stained Glass in the N. chapel, executed in 1546, representing
the emp. Charles V. and his relations, is remarkably
fine. That in other parts of the church, including the newest
at the back of the high altar, is of little artistic value.

The Pulpit is a curious specimen of wood-carving, executed
by Verbrüggen in 1699, representing the expulsion from Paradise
and a number of different animals.

The walk thus indicated would occupy about half a day and
embrace the most interesting points in Brussels. Those whose
time permits may also visit the Picture Gallery (Musée, Pl. 26),
open to the public on Sundays, Mondays and Thursdays, 10—3
o'clock; at other times admission 1 fr. It contains seven large
pictures by Rubens (not his best works), but little else worthy
of mention. The church of *Notre Dame de la Chapelle
(Pl. 7) merits a visit on account of its fine frescoes and oil-paintings
by Eykens (d. 1853). At the Porte de Hal (Pl. 27),
at the extremity of the same street (Rue Haute), is preserved a
considerable collection (1 fr.) of Weapons and Antiquities.
The Zoological Garden, 20 min. walk to the S. of the park,
is extensive and well laid out, and may also be inspected by
those who have leisure.

From Brussels to Liège see Baedeker's Rhine, thence to Cologne
see R. 48 a.

49. From Paris to Strasbourg by Châlons and Nancy.

By Express in 10¼—11¼ hrs., by ordinary trains in 15—16½ hrs.;
fares 56 fr. 20 c., 42 fr. 15 c. and 30 fr. 90 c. — Station in the Place de
Strasbourg; special omnibuses, see p. 24.

Soon after quitting the station the train crosses the canal of
St. Denis and the high-road from Paris to Lille. Beyond the
fortifications it skirts Pantin, where on March 14th, 1814, the most
sanguinary encounters took place between French and Russian
troops. Stat. Noisy-le-Sec. Several of the villages beyond the
Forêt de Bondy, especially Lagny and Damard, annually send
a vast quantity of fruit to Paris, of an average value of 50,000 L.

The line now reaches the Marne and continues on or near
the bank of the river as far as Vitry-le-François (p. 255). The
valley of the Marne presents a succession of picturesque landscapes.
Near Chalifert the river is crossed and a tunnel entered.
The Canal de Chalifert also penetrates the hill by means of another
tunnel, navigated by small steamboats. The country is here
remarkably pretty.

Meaux (Sirène; Hôtel Grignan; Palais Royal) is a small town of
great antiquity, on the Marne (10,762 inhab.). Here in 1240 the
council sat which sentenced the emperor Frederick II. to excommunication.
Five centuries later Meaux was the episcopal residence
of the celebrated Bossuet (d. 1704), whose study and favourite
walks are still pointed out. The Gothic Cathedral, erected at
various periods between the 12th and 16th. centuries, is situated
on an eminence. It contains a monument to Bossuet of very inferior
workmanship. The vaulted roof is remarkable for its loftiness,
and the triforium merits inspection.

The small town of Laferté-sous-Jouarre, birthplace of Madame
de Pompadour, was in the 16th cent. a flourishing Protestant community,
whose liberty, however, was but of short duration. It is
situated in a fertile and highly cultivated valley and surrounded
by numerous country-residences. To the left, the river is bounded
by richly wooded hills.

Château-Thierry (Hôtel d'Angleterre), on the Marne, is rendered
conspicuous by the massive tower of the ancient Gothic
church of St. Crispin, and the scanty ruins of a castle said to
have been erected by Charles Martel in 720 for the young king
Thierry. Lafontaine, the eminent fabulist, was born here, and a
monument has been erected to his memory. The Russians suffered
severe losses in the vicinity of the town in Feb., 1814.

The champagne-growing district is now entered. Between
Port-à-Binson and Damery, on a wooded eminence to the right,
rises the Château de Boursault, a handsome Gothic edifice erected
by Madame Cliquot, a name dear to the bon-vivant, for her sonin-law
M. de Mortemart.

To the right and left rise rich, vine-clad hills, between which,
in a broad, fertile valley, the Marne winds.

Epernay (Hôtel de l'Europe), the central point of the champagne
traffic, is picturesquely situated in the midst of the most
prolific vineyards. The spacious cellars hewn in the chalk-rock
are admirably suited for storing the wine, and contain millions of
bottles. — The day-express allows passengers time for a hasty
meal ("déjeuner-dînatoire") at Epernay, 2½ fr. incl. wine; champagne
may be purchased by the glass.

From Epernay to Rheims by a branch line in 50 min.; fares 3 fr.
35, 2 fr. 50 and 1 fr. 25 c.

Rheims (Lion d'Or, opp. the cathedral; Arbre d'Or. — English Church
Service), situated on the right bank of the Vesle and surrounded by vine-clad

hills, the Civitas Remorum of the Romans, is the ancient city (55,808
inhab.) where for many centuries the coronation of the monarchs of France
was wont to be celebrated.

The most interesting monument which Rheims possesses of the late
Roman period is the *Porte de Mars, a triumphal arch sonsisting of three
different archways. On the vaulting of the arch to the right (approached
from the town) are represented Romulus and Remus with the wolf, between
Faustulus and Acca Laurentia (?). On the central arch were represented
the 12 months in different compartments, five of which are totally
destroyed. A few fragments of the beautifully fluted Corinthian columns
still exist.

The *Cathedral is a magnificent structure in the early Gothic style,
founded in 1212 and completed by Robert de Coucy of Rheims at the commencement
of the 14th cent. The Façade, with its three receding portals,
adorned with numerous statues, is unfortunately in a dilapidated state,
but is now with the rest of the church undergoing a careful restoration.
The central portal represents the Coronation of the Virgin, that to the r.
the Final Judgment, and to the l. the Passion. Of the seven Towers five
were destroyed by fire in 1841. The two towers of the façade, which lost
their spires on the same occasion, present a far more elegant aspect than
is usually the case with unfinished Gothic towers, owing to the pointed
character of the large windows and the remarkably graceful turrets at the
angles. Many of the numerous sculptures with which the exterior is richly
decorated are considered the finest specimens in France of the early
Gothic period.

The church is cruciform with an unusually projecting transept, an dconsists
of a nave and two aisles; the choir is at first flanked with four
aisles, of which however the two external beyond the second arch form
a series of chapels. The entire length of the edifice is 450 ft., breadth
92 ft., length of transept 153 ft., height 110 ft. The tracery of the triforium
gallery and the windows is rich and beautiful; generally, however, the interior
of the church is far simpler than the exterior with the exception
of the jambs of the door, which alone are adorned with 122 statues. On
those of the principal entrance is represented the martyrdom of St. Nicaise.
Most of the windows, including the magnificent rose between the towers
of the façade, are filled with stained glass.

To the r. in the nave is situated the ancient Sarcophagus of Jovinus,
at a very remote period prefect of Rheims, removed to its present position
in 1790 from the Gothic church of St. Nicaise, which was at that time
destroyed. It consists of a single, solid block of white marble, 8½ ft.
long and 4½ ft. in thickness. The bas-relief which adorns it represents
a lion-hunt, beautifully executed.

The Clock with moveable figures in the N. transept is said to be the
oldest existing piece of mechanism of this description.

Rheims was probably selected for the coronation of the monarchs of
France because here the Sainte Ampoule, or sacred oil-vessel, was preserved,
which is said to have been brought down from heaven by a dove on the
occasion of the baptism of Clovis by St. Remi Louis VII. and his son
Philip Augustus elevated the archbishops to the rank of dukes and confirmed
their often disputed privilege of performing the coronation ceremony.
Here in 1429 Charles VII. was crowned, after he had been conducted to
Rheims by the intrepid Joan of Arc, who during the ceremony stood beside
him, the victorious banner in her hand. With the exception of
Henry II. who was crowned at Chartres, Napoleon I., crowned at Paris,
and Louis XVIII., Louis Philippe and Napoleon III. on whom the ceremony
was never performed, all the monarchs of France since 1173 have been
crowned at Rheims by the archbishop as primate of the entire kingdom.
Of all the costly objects employed on these occasions none have escaped
the Vandalism of the Revolution with the exception of the massive golden
goblet of St. Remi, which during six centuries has been in the possession
of the cathedral.

REIMS

The S. tower, which contains the huge bell (24,000 lbs.) cast in 1750,
should be ascended, as it affords an admirable survey of the rich decorations
and architectural beauties of the exterior of the church.

The Archiepiscopal Palace, contiguous to the cathedral on the S. side,
contains a gorgeously decorated vestibule and a beautiful chapel. Here
the sovereigns of France abode during the coronation festivities, and in
1429 the Maid of Orleans.

*St. Remi, founded in 1044, is the most ancient church in Rheims, and
in its plan somewhat resembles the cathedral. The interior was originally
Romanesque, the choir is a beautiful specimen of Gothic, the S. transept
Flamboyant. The five semicircular chapels which flank the choir are separated
from it by a graceful colonnade. The exterior displays a few
symptoms of early Gothic; the two Romanesque towers of the façade are
surmounted by lofty, pointed spires. The revolution has left the church
entirely destitute of its former costly and magnificent contents, save the
12 statues representing the 6 temporal and 6 spiritual peers of France, and
the group of the tomb of St. Remi.

The Sainte Ampoule (see p. 254) was formerly kept in the church of
St. Remi. The abbot, mounted on a white palfrey, conveyed this precious
vessel, filled with the sacred oil, to the cathedral on the coronation-day,
whilst a number of knights were detained at St. Remi as pledges for the
safe return of the holy man. The Sainte Ampoule was destroyed during
the devastation of the abbey in 1793; a fragment, however, is said to have
been preserved, and was afterwards employed at the coronation of Charles X.
in 1826.

The handsome Hôtel de Ville is Renaissance, erected under Louis XIII.,
an equestrian figure of whom is seen in the bas-relief above the entrance.

The best-built street in Rheims leads from the Hôtel de Ville to the
Place Royale, adorned with a statue of Louis XV. The houses surrounding
the square are flanked with arcades of the Doric order.

The tasteful fountain in the Place Goudinot was erected to the memory
of a canon of that name who was instrumental in supplying the town
with water.

Over the door of the Hôtel de la Maison Rouge is the following inscription:
"L'an 1429, au sucre de Charles VII., dans cette hôtellerie, ulors
nommée l'Ane Rouge, le père et la mère de Jeanne d'Arc ont été logés et défrayés
par le conseil de la ville."

Beyond Epernay the country becomes flatter. The first
station of importance is Châlons-sur-Marne (Cloche d'Or;
Morisot), capital of the Department of the Marne, with a
population of 16,675, and one of the principal depôts of champagne.
The extensive buildings to the right of the station are
the champagne manufactory of M. Jacquesson. — The Cathedral
with its graceful, open-work towers is a conspicuous object in
the town. Notre Dame, on the other side of the town, a fine
example of the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic,
dates from 1157. Its towers are more massive than those of the
cathedral, but by no means devoid of beauty.

Near Chalons (by a branch line in 50 min.) is situated the
camp of Le Mourmelon, destined by the present emperor for the
great annual manœuvres of the army which take place every autumn.

The train next traverses a far poorer district. To the left
flows the Marne winding through picturesque meadows and fringed
with trees.

Vitry-le-François, with its handsome Renaissance church,
surrounded by vineyards and fruit-trees, is indebted to Francis I.

for its entire re-construction after it had been devastated by the
emperor Charles V. — Here the Marne is crossed for the last
time and the course of the Rhine-Marne Canal followed. The
next station worthy of mention is

Bar-le-Duc (Hôtel de Metz et du Commerce; Cygne, moderate),
a picturesque town on the Ornain, once the capital of the
ancient Duché de Bar, now of the Department of the Meuse
(population 14,922). The church of St. Pierre in the Haute Ville
contains a well-executed monument in marble to the memory of
the Duc Réné de Châlons, Prince of Orange, who fell in 1544
at the siege of St. Dizier. The animated Ville Basse contains
monuments of the marshals Oudinot and Excelmans, both natives
of Bar-le-Duc.

After traversing a somewhat monotonous district the train
descends into the valley of the Meuse, here an insignificant stream,
which it twice crosses.

Commercy possesses a château of considerable size, on the
bank of the Meuse, which was once the residence of Cardinal
Francis Paul de Retz (d. 1679), who here wrote his memoirs. It
was subsequently occupied by Stanislaus Lesczinski, ex-king of
Poland, in 1744, and is now employed as barracks.

Toul (Hôtel de l'Europe), the Tullum Leucorum of the Romans,
a fortress situated on the Moselle at some distance to the right of
the line, has during 1200 years been the seat of a bishop and
is one of the most ancient towns of Lorraine (7687 inhab.).
The beautiful Gothic towers of the Cathedral are conspicuous; it
also possesses an admirable façade dating from 1340—1389. Another
Gothic tower which is also visible belongs to the abbey
church of St. Gengoult.

The Rhine-Marne Canal and Moselle here flow side by side
and are crossed at Fontenoy, beyond which one of the most
picturesque and, in an engineering point of view, remarkable
points of the whole line is reached. The valley of the Moselle
here contracts, the banks become more precipitous, and vineyards
begin to appear on the sunny heights.

Liverdun, the Livodunum of the Romans, is picturesquely
situated on an eminence, with the ruins of a castle destroyed in
1467. For some distance the railway, high-road, river and canal
are parallel to each other; the latter penetrates the hill, on which
Liverdun lies, by means of a tunnel. Here, within a very short
distance of each other, are two railway-bridges, a canal-bridge,
a lock, a harbour, a canal-tunnel and railway-bridges over canal
and road, works which have cost upwards of 140,000 L.

At Frouard the Meurthe unites with the Moselle. The town
is on the right, the railway-station on the left bank of the river.
The line to Metz diverges here.

Nancy. Hotels: *de l'Europe; de France; de Paris; du Commerce;
*d'Angleterre, moderate, and de Metz both near the railway-stations.
— Cafés: Stanislas; de l'Opéra; de la Comédie etc. all in
the Place Stanislas, formerly capital of Lorraine and seat of the dukes,
of whom Stanislaus Lesczinsky, ex-king of Poland, was the last,
is chiefly indebted for its prosperous aspect to his predecessor
Leopold (d. 1729), father of the German emperor Francis I. It
is now the principal town of the Department of the Meurthe,
on which river it is situated, and has a population of 49,305.
Nancy is one of the best-built towns in France and possesses
many handsome edifices. The vineyards by which it is surrounded
contribute greatly to the beauty of the situation. —
It contains an Ecole Forestière, or nursery for forest-trees, the only
establishment of the kind in France.

The town is entered by the Porte Stanislas, one of the seven
handsome gates of Nancy, leading to the Place Dombasle, where
a statue by David of the eminent agriculturist of that name stands.
The first street which diverges from the Rue Stanislas to the left
leads to the Cours Léopold, a handsome square adorned with a
*Statue of Marshal Drouot, in bronze, by David. The pedestal
is decorated with reliefs and inscribed with the names of battles
at which the marshal (a native of Nancy) was present.

Returning to the Rue Stanislas the traveller follows this street
and will soon reach the *Place Stanislas, the finest point in the
town. It is adorned with the Statue of Stanislaus (d. 1766),
erected by the three departments (Meurthe, Meuse, Vosges) which
formerly constituted the Duchy of Lorraine. The statue looks towards
the Triumphal Arch which Stanislaus erected in honour of
Louis XV. The Place is surrounded by five handsome edifices,
the Hôtel de Ville, the theatre, the episcopal palace (Evêché)
and two private residences.

The Hôtel de Ville contains a small *collection of pictures.
1st Room (in a small box is preserved a lock of Napoleon's
hair, his star of the Legion of Honour and a sabre worn by him
in Egypt): 225. Delacroix, Battle of Nancy, Jan. 5th, 1477, fought
by Charles le Téméraire, Duke of Burgundy, against Duke Réné
of Lorraine, in which the former fell; 184. Horace Vernet, Portrait
of General Drouot; 187. Vouet, Nymphs; 188. Vouet, Cupids
playing with the arms of Æneas; 189. Ziegler, St. George and
the dragon. 2nd Room: 14. Guido Reni, Cleopatra; 16. Copy
of the celebrated "Marriage of Cana" of Paul Veronese in the
Louvre (p. 62); 45. De Craeyer, The pestilence at Milan;
46. Delmont, The Resurrection, covering the greater portion of
the wall. — 3rd Room: 15. Leonardo da Vinci, Head of Christ;
75. Teniers, Interior of a farm; 76. Teniers, Landscape; 163. A
landscape by "Claude Lorrain" (properly Claude Gelée, d 1652)

the most celebrated of French landscape-painters, born at Nancy
in 1600; 170. Mignard, Virgin and Child.

At the back of the Hôtel de Ville, in the Rue d'Alliance
(so called from the French and Austrian alliance of 1756 against
Prussia), is the Préfecture.

Passing through the Triumphal Arch, to the left, the visitor
reaches the Place Carrière, another handsome square planted with
trees, on the farther side of which is the former palace of King
Stanislaus, now the residence of the commander of the 3rd corps
of the French army (lately Marshal Forey). On either side, the
Tribunal de Commerce and the Cour Impériale.

The Franciscan Eglise de Cordeliers, at the back of the palace,
contains (l. side) the tomb of the talented painter and engraver
Jacques Callot, and, in the richly decorated *Chapelle Ronde,
burial-place of the Dukes of Lorraine, a number of interesting
monuments from the 12th to the 18th cent. During the first
revolution the coffins were conveyed to the public cemetery and
this chapel converted into a magazine. In 1822 it was restored
at the expense of France and Austria. Mass is still performed
here by an almoner of the Lorraine Hapsburg family. — Duke
Francis of Lorraine by his marriage with the Archduchess
Maria Theresa (1736), heiress of the lands of Hapsburg, became
the founder of the present imperial house of Austria.

The contiguous Palais Ducal, formerly a residence of the
dukes, contains the Musée Lorrain, a collection of relics from the
Lorraine period. In a small court, Roman antiquities found in
the environs. The palace itself now serves as barracks. It was
erected by Duke Réné II., conqueror of Charles le Téméraire,
and possesses a fine late Gothic portal with an equestrian statue
of Duke Leopold II. towards the Grand' Rue. The edifice was
restored by Stanislaus.

In the new part of the town, to the right of the Place Stanislas
(when approached from the station) rises the Cathedral,
in the Jesuitical style, completed in 1742, containing nothing to
interest the traveller save some handsome altars in marble.

The Pepinière, extensive grounds with fine avenues, entered
from the Place Stanislas and the Place Carrière, affords a pleasant
promenade; military music at 4 p. m. during the season.

In the suburb of St Pierre is the Eglise de Bon Secours,
where Stanislaus (d. 1766) and his consort are interred. After
his abdication as king of Poland (1735) he continued to be reigning
duke of Lorraine and Bar until his death, when the duchy
fell to the crown of France.

In 1814, and again in 1815, the three allied monarchs (Prussia,
Austria, Russia) had their head-quarters at Nancy, where the proposal
of a "Holy Alliance" is said first to have been originated.

The railway-station of Nancy occupies a piece of marshy ground
where, after the battle of Nancy, the body of the Duke of
Burgundy was found. In a burial ground in the vicinity 4000
of the duke's troops were interred, and the commemorative Croix
de Bourgogne erected by the victorious Duke Réné (d. 1508),
bearing the following inscription:

       

En l'an de l'incarnation	Et en bataille ici transcy
Mil quatre cent septante six	Ou croix fut mise pour mémoire
Veille de l'Apparition	Réné Duc de Loraine me(r)cy
Fut le Duc de Bourgogne occis	Rendant à Dieu pour la victoire.

Quitting Nancy, the train crosses the Meurthe and the Rhine-Marne
Canal.

Varangeville and St. Nicolas are two small towns connected
by a bridge over the Meurthe. The church of the former dates
from the 15th cent., that of the latter from 1494—1544.

Lunéville (15,528 inhab.), at the confluence of the Meurthe
and Vezouse, was the birthplace of Francis I. of Austria, son
of Leopold Duke of Lorraine, and founder of the present
imperial house. In a house in the Rue d'Allemagne the
peace of Lunéville, between France and Austria, was signed,
Feb. 9th, 1801.

Sarrebourg (*Hôtel du Sauvage), on the Sarre which here
becomes navigable, is the boundary between the French and German
languages, the former being spoken in the upper, the latter
in the lower part of the town (not to be confounded with Saarburg
near Treves, in the Prussian dominions). The place would
become of the utmost importance in case of a Rhenish war,
and has in consequence been provided with extensive provision
magazines.

The rich plains of Lorraine are now quitted, and a spur of
the Vosges Mts. is penetrated by the tunnel of Archwiller, 1½ M.
in length, through which the Rhine-Marne Canal also passes. The
train enters the valley of the Zorn. Opposite to Lutzelbourg, the
last station in the Department of the Meurthe, rise the picturesque
ruins of an ancient fortress.

Saverne (*Soleil), a small town with a population of 6400.
The handsome Palace, erected in 1666 by a Bishop of Strasbourg,
was afterwards occupied by Cardinal de Rohan (d. 1802), whose
fatal influence on the destinies of the court of Louis XVI is well
known. By an imperial decree of 1852 the edifice was appropriated
to the use of widows and daughters of deserving officials.
Above the town rises the ancient castle of Greifenstein. On the
opposite side of the valley, the extensive and picturesque ruins
of *Haut-Barr, scarcely distinguishable from the grotesquely shaped
rocks on which it stands.

Between Saverne and Strasbourg the country is uninteresting.

50. Strasbourg.

Hotels. *Ville de Paris (Pl. a) a handsome new building; R. from
2 fr., L. 1 fr., B. 1½ fr., D. exc. W. 3 fr., A. 1 fr. *Maison Rouge
(Pl b). Hôtel d'Angleterre near the stat., well spoken of. Vignette
(Pl. e, Grand'Rue 119); La Pomme d'or (Pl. f) in the Bue d'Or; Badischer
Hof.

Cafés. *Café Cadé in the Kleberplatz; *Café Adam, or du Broglie;
Café de l'Europe and Café de l'Univers both near the Kleberplatz;
Café Hauswald, not far from the Railway-station.

Public Gardens. Jardin Lips and Jardin Kämmerer, both outside
the Porte des Juifs; music and other entertainments in the evening
2 or 3 times a week. The Orangerie, a well-kept garden belonging to the
town, situated in the Ruprechtsau, about 3 M. distant, affords an agreeable
promenade.

Cabs or Citadines 1—2 persons for ¼ hr. 50 cent., ½ hr. 90 cent.,
from the Strasbourg station to the Rhine bridge 1 fr.

Railway Station on the N.W. side of the town for the Paris, Bâle,
Mayence and Kehl lines; on the last-named line there is also a station
at the Austerlitz Gate.

Pâtes de foie gras at Henry's, Meisengasse, Doyen, Münstergasse,
or Hummel, Schlossergasse; prices from 5 to 40 fr. according to size.
The geese's livers not unfrequently attain a weight of 2—3 lbs. each.

Travellers whose time is limited should ascend the tower of the
Cathedral (see below), inspect the cathedral itself, and visit the Church
of St. Thomas (p. 262).

English Church Service in the Hôtel de Paris.

Gates closed at 11.

Strasbourg (Ger. Strassburg), the Argentoratum of the Romans,
formerly capital of Lower Alsace and one of the most important
towns on the Rhine, now the capital of the French Department
of the Lower Rhine, lies on the Ill, about 2½ M. from the Rhine
with which it is connected by a small and a large canal. On
the 30th of Sept., 1681, in a time of peace, Strasbourg was seized
by Louis XIV., and France was confirmed in the possession of
the city by the peace of Ryswyk in 1697. Since then the fortifications
have been greatly enlarged, so that it is now one of
the strongest fortresses and the third largest arsenal in France.
Garrison upwards of 6000; pop. 79,000, of whom nearly one
half are Protestants.

The Emperor Maximilian I., in writing of Strasbourg, describes
it as the strong bulwark of the holy Roman kingdom, and praises
it highly for the good old German honesty, constancy and bravery
of its inhabitants. The town has to this day a German air, and
although it has been under French dominion for 170 years, the
ancient language and customs of the townspeople still prevail.

The *Cathedral (Pl. 1) (always open except from 12 to
2 o'clock) was first funded by Clovis in 510, but having been
destroyed by lightning in 1007, the foundation of the present
edifice was laid by Bishop Werner of Hapsburg in 1015, and
the interior completed in 1275. In 1277 the erection of the
*Façade was commenced by Erwin of Steinbach and his daughter
Sabina, to the latter of whom the church is indebted for the

Strasbourg.

magnificent decorations of the *Portal. Above it in niches are
the equestrian statues of Clovis, Dagobert, Rudolph of Hapsburg,
and (since 1823) Louis XIV. The sculptures above the portal
belong chiefly to the 13th and 14th centuries. The upper part
of the spire was erected by Johann Hültz of Cologne at the
commencement of the 15th cent. in the capricious and variegated
modern Gothic style, and finally completed in 1439. The upper
part of the S. tower is entirely wanting. Few cathedrals offer so
good an opportunity for tracing the progress of the Gothic style
from the time when it took its origin from the modern Romanesque
style (choir, crypt and part of transept) to its highest
and purest perfection (the body of the church completed in 1275,
and the façade of 1277—1339), and to its decline (the platform
between the towers of 1365, and the top of the spire of 1439).

The entire length of the edifice is 175 yds., and the breadth
65 yds.; the nave is 95 ft. in height and 42 ft. in breadth.
Some of the stained-glass windows are admirably executed; the
Magi with the Virgin Mary in the north aisle are modern. The
pillars and columns of the interior are elegant and are embellished
with statues, but on the whole the church is somewhat
destitute of ornament. The Font in the N. transept dates from
1453 and the *pulpit, richly decorated with sculpture, from 1486.
The Chapel of St. John (to the l. by the choir) contains a monument
to Bishop Conrad of Lichtenberg, under whose auspices
the construction of the façade began. The Chapel of St. Mary
(S. aisle) contains a sculpture representing the interment of the
Virgin, executed in 1480.

The celebrated astronomical *Clock, constructed by Schwilgué
in 1838—1842 in the S. transept, is a highly curious and ingenious
piece of workmanship. Some paintings and portions of the
old clock have been used in the erection of the new.

The globe beneath shows the course of the stars, behind it is a perpetual
almanac, on the l. a piece of mechanism exhibiting ecclesiastical
reckoning of time, and on the r. the geocentric opposition and conjunction
of the sun and moon; above it is a dial determining the intervening time,
and still higher is shown the course of the moon through the heavens.
The exterior of the clock attracts spectators at all times, but especially
at noon. On the first gallery an angel strikes the quarters on a bell
which he holds in his hand; higher up is a skeleton, representing time,
which strikes the hour of 12, and round it are figures which strike the
quarters and represent man's progress through the various stages of boyhood,
youth, manhood and old age. Under the first gallery the symbolic
deity of each day of the week steps out of a niche, Apollo on Sunday,
Diana on Monday, and so on. In the highest niche the 12 apostles move
round a figure of the Saviour, bowing as they pass. On the highest pinnacle
of the side-tower is perched a cock which flaps its wings, stretches
its neck and crows, awakening the echoes of the remotest nooks of the
cathedral.

Two old inscriptions on a pillar near the clock commemorate
the zeal and piety of Johann Geiler of Kaisersberg (d. 1510), one
of the most learned men and undaunted preachers of his time.

On the Romanesque S. *Portal were erected, in 1840, statues
of the great architect Erwin and his talented daughter Sabina.
The sculpturing on this portal by the latter has been skilfully
renovated and deserves the minutest inspection. Above the doors
are represented the death, interment, resurrection and coronation
of the Virgin, and on the middle pillar the Saviour and king
Solomon. Beneath is Solomon's Judgment, and on the r. and l.
figures emblematical of Christianity and Judaism. There are
also several statues by Sabina on pillars in the S. aisle next to
the transept.

On the N. side is the Chapel of St. Laurentius with its beautiful
gateway of the 15th cent., adorned with restored sculptures
of the martyrdom of the saints.

The *Cathedral-Tower rises in front of the structure to such
a height that the spectator almost feels dizzy as his eye attempts
to reach the lofty summit. Near the r. hand Portal, round
the corner, is a door leading to a staircase of easy ascent. A
few steps up, the custodian dwells, from whom a ticket (15 cent.)
must be procured. The visitor then ascends 330 steps to the
platform, 230 ft. above the street, which commands a fine view
of the old-fashioned town with its planted ramparts and promenades.
To the l. is seen the Black Forest from Baden to the
Blauen; on the W. and N. the entire chain of the Vosges, on
the S. the insulated Kaiserstuhl, rising from the plain, and
beyond it in the extreme distance the magnificent chain of the
Jura. The services of the door-keeper are unnecessary in ascending
to the platform, though a fee is generally expected.
From the platform another staircase leads to the summit of the
spire, the so-called "Lantern". The entrance to it is closed by
an iron grating, which is not opened to the visitor without a
special permission from the mayor.

The ancient residence of the Bishops, opposite to the S.
Portal of the Cathedral, with terrace facing the Ill, was purchased
by the town at the period of the Revolution and presented
in 1806 to Napoleon. From 1814—1848 it served as a
royal residence, and in 1853 was presented to Napoleon III.

From the cathedral the attention of the traveller is next
directed to the Church of St. Thomas. His way leads across
the Place Gutenberg, where a handsome bronze Statue was erected
in 1840 to the memory of the great printer who conducted his
first experiments in the newly-discovered art at Strasbourg in
1436. The four bas-reliefs are emblematical of the power and
blessing of the invention of printing in the four quarters of the
globe, and comprise likenesses of many celebrated men.

The *Church of St. Thomas (Pl. 10; the sacristan lives at
the back of the choir) was founded in 1031; the choir, of plain
Gothic construction, was commenced in 1270, and the main-body

of the church with its five aisles was erected in the Gothic style
in 1313—1330. It is now appropriated to the use of a Protestant
congregation. The choir where the high-altar formerly
stood, contains a magnificent monument in marble, erected by
Louis XV. to Marshal Saxe; it is the work of the sculptor Pigalle,
and the result of twenty years' labour. The marshal is represented
descending into the tomb held open to receive him by Death,
while a beautiful female figure personifying France strives to
detain him; at the side Hercules is represented in a mournful
attitude leaning upon his club; on the l. side are the Austrian
eagle, the Dutch lion and the English leopard, with broken flags
beneath them, commemorating the victories gained by the marshal
over the three united powers in the Flemish wars. The
whole is an allegory in accordance with the questionable taste
of the age, but as a work of art it is masterly and original.

The church also contains busts and monuments of celebrated
professors of the University of Strasbourg, among others of Schöpilin,
Koch and Oberlin, brother of the well-known pastor of that name.
In a side-chapel may be seen two mummies, found in 1 02,
and said to be the bodies of a Count of Nassau-saarbrücken
and his daughter, who probably died in the 16th cent

The New Church (Temple Neuf, Pl. 11.). which belongs to
the 16th cent, once the property of the Dominicans, now appropriated
to the Protestant service, contains the tombstone of the
celebrated Dominican Joh. Tauler (d. 13 1) and some curions old
frescoes of a death-dance, probably of the 14th or 15th cent.

Near the New Church is the Town Library (Pl. 5), which
possesses a rich collection of curious ancient works and documents.
In the entrance-hall some Roman and other antiquities are to
be seen.

The square called the Broglie, after a marshal of that name,
is bounded on the N.E. by the Theatre (Pl. 3 ), completed in
1821, with a Portio adorned with statues of 6 of the Muses.
Representations on Sund., Tues., Thurs. and Frid.

Opposite to the theatre on the r. are the residences of the
prefect of the town and the general of the troops garrisoned
here. The Statue (Pl. 38) of the Marquis de Lezay-Marnesia,
by Grass, was erected in 1857. Farther on is the Town Hall
(Pl. 26, entrance from the Rue Brulée) which contains a small
collection of pictures open on Sund., Tues. and Thurs. from
2 to 4; at other times on payment of a fee of 1 fr.

The Rue Brulée, which runs in a S.E. direction parallel with
the Broglie, has received its appellation from the circumstance
of 2000 Jews, who refused to be baptized, having been burned,
Feb. 14th, 1349, on the spot where the Hôtel de la Préfecture
now stands.

The University, inaugurated in 1621, once numbered Goethe
among its students; it was here that the great poet and scholar
completed his law studies and took the degree of doctor in 1772.
It is now converted into an Academy, and deserves a visit on
account of its Museum of Natural History, a collection of more
than ordinary value and interest. It is open to the public on
Thurs. from 2 to 4, and on Sund. from 10 to 12; at other times
adm. may be procured for a fee of 1 fr.

In the Place d'Armes a bronze Statue has been erected
to the memory of General Kleber, at the foot of which reclines
an Egyptian sphynx; on the sides are two reliefs. The Café
Cadé is on the N.W. side of the Place, next door to the
Guard-house.

The Kehl railway-station is about 4 M. distant from Strasbourg,
and connected with it by a junction line lately completed.
In the immediate vicinity of the Porte d'Austerlitz are the spacious
Artillery Barracks (St. Nicholas) and near them the Arsenal
de construction, one of the largest dépôts of ammunition in
France.

A few minutes after leaving the town by this gate the traveller
passes the Cemetery and catches a glimpse of the green
ramparts of the Citadel, constructed by Vauban in 1682—1684,
which lies to the l. of the road. On the other side of the bridge
over a branch of the Rhine stands a Monument erected by Napoleon
to the memory of General Desaix, who fell in the battle
of Marengo in 1800.

Junction-line to Kehl see p. 260; fares 1 fr., 70 and 50 c.

51. From Paris to Mannheim or Coblenz (Bingen).

Express to Forbach in 11, ordinary trains in 14 hrs.; fares to Forbach
51 fr. 30 c., 38 fr. 45 c., 28 fr. 20 c. First-class tickets only issued for
the express trains.

From Forbach to Mannheim in 4¼ hrs.; fares 6 fl. 37 kr., 4 fl. 9 kr.,
2 fl. 51 kr.

The railway-station for Strasbourg and Metz is at the N. extremity of
the Boulevard de Strasbourg (Pl., red 10). Special omnibus see p. 24.

a. From Paris to Metz.

Express in 8, ordinary trains in 12½ hrs.; fares 39 fr. 65, 29 fr. 80,
21 fr. 25 c.

From Paris to Frouard see R. 49.

At Frouard the carriages for Metz are detached from the train
to Nancy and Strasbourg, cross the canal and the Moselle near
the station and follow the pleasant and populous valley of the
latter, which here becomes navigable and is enclosed between
gently sloping banks.

Pont-à-Mousson, with the ruined fortress Mousson (fine view)
on an eminence, its church (St. Martin) with two towers and its
bridge over the Moselle, presents a pleasing picture. Cardinal

METZ

Charles of Lorraine founded a university here in 1573, the chairs
in which were occupied by Jesuits. Before the cession of Lorraine
to the French (1746) the town with its small territory
was under the jurisdiction of a German Margrave.

On a mountain on the l., near stat. Pagny, are the ruins of
the château of Prény, once appertaining to the Dukes of Lorraine.
Excellent wine is produced here.

At stat. Novéant a suspension-bridge crosses the Moselle. On
the r. bank of the river the extensive remains of a Roman
*Aqueduct, constructed by Drusus, visible from a considerable
distance, are perceived at intervals. It was 57 ft. in height and
3420 ft. in length and conducted water from the hills of the r. bank
to Divodurum, the modern Metz. At Jouy-aux-Arches 11 arches
are still well preserved, and at Ars (or rather Arches-sur-Moselle),
7 others, termed by the peasantry "Pont du Diable", rise close
to the railway. The bridge by which the train crosses the
Moselle affords a good final survey of this imposing Roman
structure.

The train then reaches Metz, which lies so buried amidst its
green ramparts, that little of the town is perceived from the
railway.

b. Metz.

Hôtels. *Grand Hôtel de Metz (Pl. a), R. 2, B. 1, D. inc. W. 3½,
A. ¾ fr.; Hôtel de l'Europe (Pl. b), R. and L. 3, D. 4, A. 1 fr.; both
in the Rue des Clercs. *Hôtel de Paris (Pl. c), adjoining the Terrace,
of the second class. Hôtel du Nord (Pl. d); Hôtel du Commerce
(Pl. e); Hôtel du Porte Enseigne (Pl. f)

Cafés. Café Parisien, Place de la Comédie; Café du Grand
Balcon, in the Esplanade near the station, affording a great variety of
ices; Café Français and Café Fabert, in the Place Napoléon, near
the cathedral.

Metz, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, afterwards
appertaining to the German empire, and in 1556 ceded to
France together with Toul and Verdun, is now one of the most
important military stations in France, with a garrison of 14,000
men and a great school of artillery. It is the capital of the
Département de la Moselle and contains a population of 56,888.
The river flows through the town in several branches, thus
forming several islands.

The most important edifice is the *Cathedral (Pl. 7), a
Gothic structure with numerous flying buttresses. The nave
was completed in 1332, the choir in 1519 and the portal added
in 1764. At the altar adjoining the sacristy is the kneeling
figure of the architect Pierre Perrat (d. 1400). All the ancient
monuments and pictures were destroyed during the revolution,
with the exception of a few venerable frescoes on the pillars,
recently freed from their coating of whitewash. The choir contains

some fine stained glass, dating principally from 1523,
besides several windows of modern workmanship.

The tower is 363 ft. in height; 110 steps ascend to the first
(105 to the large bell La Muette), 78 more to the highest terrace.
The passage is very narrow at one point, but presents no
real difficulty. The view from the summit amply repays the
ascent and embraces the extremely fertile "Pays Messin", the
town, the fortifications and the course of the Moselle.

The open halls of the Marché Couvert (Pl. 23), opposite
the W. portal, are occupied by vendors of fruit, vegetables and
flowers and afford a striking proof of the luxuriant fertility of
the environs. Pine-apples of considerable size, as well as fine
specimens of other fruits, are frequently observed. — Those who
are interested in such establishments may visit the extensive
Abattoir, or slaughter-house, situated without the Porte Chambière.

In the Place Napoléon, which adjoins the W. side of the
cathedral, rises the Statue of Marshal Fabert (d. 1662), a
contemporary of Turenne. The inscription records a declaration
by the marshal of his willingness to sacrifice his life and property
in the service of his king.

The Library (Pl. 2), near the cathedral, contains numerous
Roman antiquities and a small collection of pictures.

The Arsenal (Pl. 1) contains specimens of modern, as well
as ancient weapons, tastefully arranged, and in the court numerous
cannons (gratuity 1 fr., closed on Sundays). Under a roof to the
l. of the entrance is a long cannon carried off by the French
with 189 others in 1799 from the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein,
where it was known by the name of Vogel Greiff, having been
constructed by order of the Elector of Trèves, Richard von
Greiffenclau. It is 15 ft. in length and weighs 12½ tons.

The high road to Germany issues from the Porte des Allemands
and the Fort Belle Croix. The Rue des Allemands, leading
to this gate, contains a considerable number of German shops.
The gate exhibits bullet-marks dating from the unsuccessful siege
of the town by the emperor Charles V.

The contiguous church of St. Eucaire (St. Eucharius) (Pl. 5)
is a tasteful structure of the 12th cent., especially interesting to
the professional observer. Interior destitute of ornament.

The S. side of the town is bounded by the Esplanade,
with its beautiful walks and imposing barracks. Military music
here in the evening, three times weekly.

On the Esplanade rises the Palais de Justice (Pl. 25),
an extensive building erected during the last century, and seat
of the different courts of judicature. In the police and other
courts the services of an interpreter are frequently required when
the parties concerned are natives of the E. or N. portion of the

department, where in several of the villages German is still
exclusively spoken.

A few leisure hours may advantageously be employed in
making an excursion to Jouy-aux-Arches (p. 265).

Railway from Metz to Trèves by Thionville and Luxembourg,
the most direct route, in 3¾ hrs.; fares 12 fr. 45, 9 fr. 25,
6 fr. 65 c.

c. From Metz to Mannheim and Mayence.

By Railway in 7½ hrs.; fares from Metz to Forbach 11 fr. 65, 8 fr. 65,
6 fr. 95 c.; from Forbach to Ludwigshafen (Mannheim) 6 fl. 37, 4 fl. 9,
2 fl. 51 kr.

An undulating, agricultural district is traversed between Metz
and Forbach, and several unimportant stations are passed.

At St. Avold the line enters a forest; the red sandstone
imparts greater variety to the landscape.

Hombourg lies picturesquely on an isolated eminence, which
has procured for the place the epithet of "la guérite du monde".
The cuttings through the wooded mountains beyond Hombourg
afford a survey of the strata of the red sandstone.

Forbach is the last French station, where those entering
France undergo the usual custom-house formalities. Carriages are
changed here. Soon after the station is quitted several smelting
furnaces are perceived on the r., and the coal-district is entered.
The frontier is crossed, and the train descends to the Saar, which
it crosses, and soon reaches

Saarbrücken (Post), the first Prussian station, and seat of
the custom-house officials. — Arnual, in the vicinity, possesses
a fine Gothic church of 1315, containing an admirable font and
very interesting ancient monuments of the princely family of
Nassau-Saarbrücken.

(Railway to Trèves in 3 hrs. From Trèves to Coblenz by
steamboat in 10—12 hrs., comp. Baedeker's Rhine.)

The long series of furnaces near Duttweiler are situated in
the midst of a most valuable coal-district, which in almost its
entire extent belongs to the Prussian government, and is the
seat of numerous industrial establishments in the vicinity of the
following stations Sulzbach, Friedrichsthal and Neunkirchen. The
cuttings through the rocky and wooded mountains frequently
display the stratification of the coal. Between the two last
stations a tunnel 500 yds. in length.

At Neunkirchen the Rhine-Nahe Railway diverges to Creuznach
and Bingen (Coblenz), see p. 269.

At Bexbach, where the Bavarian Palatinate commences, the
country becomes flat. To the r. a pleasing survey of the green
dale watered by the Bexbach.

Homburg is a small town with a handsome modern church.
It was once fortified, but was dismantled in consequence of the

Peace of Westphalia. In 1705 it was re-fortified by the French,
but again destroyed in 1714 after the Peace of Baden. The
castle of Carlsberg, situated on an eminence 1½ M. from the
town, erected in 1780 by Duke Charles II. of Zweibrücken,
was destroyed by the French in 1793.

The line now skirts a chain of wooded hills and passes two
small stations.

Landstuhl was once the seat of the Sickingen family, whose
ruined stronghold, with walls 24 ft. in thickness, rises above the
village. Francis von Sickingen was here besieged by the electors
of the Palatinate and Trèves and killed, May 7th, 1523, by a
falling beam.

Kaiserslautern (Cygne) is one of the most considerable towns
of the Palatinate. The site of a magnificent palace erected here
by the emp. Frederick I. (Barbarossa) in 1153, destroyed in the
Spanish War of Succession, is now occupied by a modern house
of correction. The handsome corn-exchange was built in 1846.
A monument in the churchyard is sacred to the memory of
soldiers of Napoleon who were natives of Kaiserslautern. The
ancient Protestant church, with its three towers, said to have
been also founded by Frederick I., is one of the most conspicuous
edifices.

The line soon enters the Haardt Mountains and descends in
the picturesque and wooded valley of the Speierbach to the
plain of the Rhine, 100 ft. lower. Within a short distance 12
tunnels here penetrate the variegated sandstone rock, the first
of which (1500 yds. long) is the longest. Each tunnel is
furnished with a species of portal.

At Neustadt (Löwe, at the station; Schiff; Krone) the line
reaches the plain of the Rhine. This is the principal town of
the Haardt Mts., and was founded by the Counts Palatine, several
monuments to whom are preserved in the handsome church,
erected about the middle of the 14th cent.

On an eminence about 1000 ft. in height, 3 M. to the S.
of Neustadt, rises the Maxburg, a still unfinished castle erected
by king Max II. of Bavaria when crown-prince, on the site of
the former castle of Hambach.

To the l. near Neustadt, half-way up the hill, lies the Haardter
Schlösschen (the ancient castle of Winzingen), the ivy-clad ruins
of which are converted into picturesque grounds.

The line then traverses extensive vineyards and tobacco-fields.
At Schifferstadt a line diverges to Speyer (15 min.). Then
Ludwigshafen (Deutsches Haus), a small well-built town of
recent origin, connected with Mannheim (European Hotel on the
Rhine; Palatinate Hotel, German Hotel in the town) by a bridge
of boats.

Cab from the station at Ludwigshafen to that of Mannheim
a drive of 20 min., 1—2 pers. 45 kr., 3 pers. 1 fl., 4 pers.
1 fl. 12 kr.

From Ludwigshafen in 2 hrs. to Mayence (Rhenish, Dutch
and English Hotels), comp. Baedeker's Rhine.

d. From Metz to Coblenz by Neunkirchen, Creuznach
and Bingen.

Railway to Bingen in 6½, to Coblenz in 8 hrs.; fares to Bingen
22 fr. 60, 15 fr. 95, 16 fr. 85 c.; from Bingen to Coblenz 50, 37½, 22 Sgr.
Scenery and construction of railway very interesting between Neunkirchen
and Bingerbrück.

From Metz to Neunkirchen see p. 267. Hence by the
Rhein-Nahe line to Ottweiler, St. Wendel and Wallhausen, the
culminating point (1200 ft.) between the Moselle and the Rhine.
Then Birkenfeld (Medicus) capital of a small isolated territory
belonging to Oldenburg. Next stat. Heimbach and Kronweiler,
beyond which the construction of the line is less remarkable.

Oberstein (*Heindl, on the r. bank; Scriba, on the l. bank),
the most picturesque point of the Nahe Valley, with its church
curiously inserted in the face of a cliff, is noted for its agates,
in polishing which most of the inhabitants are occupied. The
stones themselves are now largely imported from America. Next
stat. Fischbach and Kirn (Post) with the ruin of Kyrburg. To
the l. a valley opens, in which the imposing ruins of the castle
of Dhaun are situated.

Then Monzingen, Sobernheim and Staudernheim (*Salmen).
To the r. rises the Dissibodenberg, with the ruins of an abbey
founded as early as 500 and deserted in 1560. Above Waldböckelheim
rises the ruin of Böckelheim. The next important
station is

Creuznach (Palatinate Hotel; Eagle), with 11,000 inhab.,
noted for its saline baths (6000 patients annually). The environs
abound in beautiful walks (Münster am Stein, Rheingrafenstein,
Ebernburg, Gans, Rothenfels).

At Bingerbrück the line unites with the Rhenish Railway.

Bingen (Hôtel Victoria; White Horse; *Bellevue), a Hessian
town with 6000 inhab., lies opposite Bingerbrück, on the r. bank
of the Nahe, at a considerable distance from the terminus of the
Nahe line, and is not entered by passengers proceeding down
the Rhine.

Then stat. Bacharach, Oberwesel, Boppard, St. Goar, Capellen
(Stolzenfels) and Coblenz, all interesting points (comp. Baedeker's
Rhine).

52. From Paris to Bâle by Troyes, Belfort
and Mulhouse.

Express in 12½, ordinary trains in 16 hrs.; fares 58 fr. 70 c., 44 fr.,
32 fr. 30 c. The station is on the l., adjoining the Station de Strasbourg.

From Paris to Noisy-le-Sec see p. 252. The Strasbourg line
here diverges to the l. At Nogent-sur-Marne (p. 127) the Marne
is crossed. On the r. the park of Vincennes is visible. The
line now enters the fertile, but monotonous plain of Brie. From
stat. Gretz a branch-line to Armainvillers. Nangis with 2000 inhab.,
a busy little town, possesses an ancient castle and an interesting
Gothic church (St. Martin).

The line traverses several attractive valleys and a succession
of viaducts and tunnels. Stat. Longueville.

Branch-line in 15 min. to Provins, an ancient town (7500 inhab.) on
the Vouzie, with remnants of a castle of the former Counts of Champagne.
The church of St. Quiriace, with its dome, and the Tour du Roi (or de César),
an early mediæval structure, are worthy of notice.

At stat. Chalmaison the line quits the plain of Brie and
enters the valley of the Seine. From stat. Flamboin a branch-line
to Montereau (p. 273). At stat. Nogent-sur-Seine, the line
crosses the Seine.

About 4½ M. to the S. of Nogent once lay the Abbey of Paraclet,
where during nearly seven centuries the remains of Abélard and Heloïse
reposed. In 1792 they were conveyed to the church of St. Laurent at
Nogent, whence they were finally removed to the cemetery of Père Lachaise
at Paris (p. 115). The farm of a M. Walckenaer now occupies the
site of the abbey. The empty vault, however, still exists.

The district continues flat. Near stat. Pont-sur-Seine is situated
the château Le Muet, where Madame Letitia, Napoleon's
mother once resided, afterwards the property of Casimir Périer.
The remains of Voltaire once reposed in the church of stat. Romilly,
whither they were transported on the suppression of the
neighbouring abbey of Scellières, the great poet's first resting-place.
They were subsequently conveyed to the Pantheon at
Paris (p. 139), whence they were removed in 1814. Several
small stations, then

Troyes (Hôtels de Paris, de France, du Mulet, du Commerce;
Restaurants Pillost, Chaulin; *Rail. Restaurant) on the Seine, the
ancient capital of Champagne, an animated and well-built town
with 33,000 inhab. During the Roman period the town was
named Augustobona, then Tricassis, and after the 5th cent. Trecae.
Mention of it is frequently made in the wars of the middle ages.

The cathedral of St. Pierre, commenced in 1208, completed
in 1640, exhibits a combination of different styles of architecture.
The choir has recently been restored in the early Gothic style.
The richly decorated Portal dates from 1506. — *St. Urbain was
erected in 1262—67 by Pope Urban IV. (Jacques Pantaléon,
son of a shoemaker), a native of this town. — The churches

of St. Jean of the 13th, St. Pantaléon of the 16th, and Ste. Madeleine
of the 12th century contain little to detain the traveller.
The last named possesses a handsome rood-loft (jobé) with rich
sculpture.

The *Hôtel de Ville, erected 1624—70, contains a magnificent
hall, adorned with the busts of seven celebrated natives of the
town. On the E. side a medallion-figure in marble of Louis XIV.,
dating from 1680, with Latin inscription by Racine.

The Museum, founded in 1831 contains pictures, sculptures
and objects illustrative of natural history. Above it a *Library of
100,000 vols. and upwards of 2000 MSS. (open daily 10—2 o'clock).

Branch-line from Troyes to Bar-sur-Seine in 1 hr. 5 min.

Leaving Troyes the train traverses meadow-land on the bank
of the Scine, which it quits at stat. Rouilly. Beyond stat. Vendeuvre
the picturesque and partially wooded valley of the Aube
is entered. This district between Troyes and Arcis, and as far
as Langres, was the scene of the final desperate struggle of Napoleon
against the Allies under Schwarzenberg and Blücher in the
winter of 1814. Stat. Jessains commands an extensive prospect.

On the Aube is situated the village of La Rothière, where on Feb. 1st,
1814 Blücher obtained the first victory over Napoleon on French soil.
Farther to the l., on the height beyond the Aube, rises the ancient town
of Brienne (Brienne le Château, now named Brienne Napoléon), celebrated
for the military school where Napoleon studied in 1779—84. A sanguinary
conflict here took place between Blücher and Napoleon, Jan. 29th, 1814,
when the town was bombarded and set on fire and Blücher narrowly
escaped capture. Napoleon destined the sum of one million fr. to be employed
in rebuilding the town. In 1852 Napoleon III. presented the inhabitants
with 400,000 fr., which has been expended in the construction
of the new Mairie; in front of the latter a bronze Statue of Napoleon in
his 15th year by Louis Rochet.

The line now descends the pleasant valley of the Aube, crosses
the stream near stat. Arsonval and reaches Bar-sur-Aube, an
ancient town (4500 inhab.), with the churches of St. Maclou and
St. Pierre, dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. Schwarzenberg
here gained a victory over Oudinot on Feb. 27th, 1814.
Next stat. Clairvaux, which lies to the r. in the valley of the
Aube. The celebrated Cistercian abbey (Clara Vallis) founded
by St. Bernard in 1115 is now a workhouse. No traces of antiquity
are now perceptible.

The line now enters the valley of the Aujon, and at stat.
Maranville that of the Brozé. Stat. Bricon is the junction of
the branch-line to Châtillon-sur-Seine and Nuits-sous-Ravières
(p. 274). Beyond Villiers-le-Sec a huge viaduct of 50 arches,
150 ft. in height, crosses the valley of the Suize to Chaumont
(en-Bassigny), a fortified town (6300 inhab.) on a barren ridge
between the Suize and the Marne. The church of St. Jean Baptiste
of the 13th, with choir of the 16th cent., deserves notice.
La Tour Hautefeuille near the Palais de Justice, is the remains
of an ancient castle of the Counts of Champagne.

Branch-line from Chaumont in 2½ hrs. to Blesme, a station on the
Paris and Strasbourg line, traversing the valley of the Marne.

The line descends through deep cuttings into the valley of
the Marne. The district is picturesque. Stat. Foulain, Rolampont,
then Langres (Hôtel de l'Europe; Poste), the ancient Andomatunum,
capital of the Lingones, now an episcopal residence
loftily situated on a spur of the Plateau de Langres, with
8300 inhab. The cathedral of *St. Mammès, with its two vast
towers is a structure of the 11th and 12th centuries in the transition
style from Romanesque to Gothic. St. Martin, of the
13th cent., is Gothic; tower of the 18th cent. At the Porte du
Marché is an admirably preserved *Roman Gateway. The Museum
(Place St Didier) contains altars, inscriptions and other antiquities.
Diderot (d. at Paris in 1784) was born at Langres in 1713. —
The three sources of the Marne are situated in a rocky ravine,
to the S., near the farm La Marnotte.

From stat. Chalindrey a line diverges to Gray and Auxonne
(p. 275). Then a long tunnel. The line then enters the valley
of the Amance, which it follows down to the Saône. Stat. Hortes,
Charmoy, Laferté-sur-Amance.

The celebrated baths of Bourbonne-les-Bains are situated 12 M. to
the N. (diligence in 2 hrs.); sulphureous and saline waters, known to
the Romans.

The line soon crosses the Saône and ascends on its r. bank.
At Port d'Atelier the line from Vesoul to Nancy by Epinal diverges,
which unites with the Paris and Strasbourg line at stat. Blainville-la-Grande.

At stat. Port-sur-Saône the valley of the Saône is quitted,
and the line traverses wooded heights to Vaivre and Vesoul
(6800 inhab.), the busy capital of the Departement Haute-Saône,
picturesquely situated in the valley of the Durgeon. (Branch-line
to Gray, see above.)

Then three small stations, and several cuttings and tunnels.
Towards the l. (N.E.) the Vosges Mts. become visible. Stat. Lure
in the valley of the Ognon, was once a considerable abbey. The
Vosges continue to rise picturesquely on the l.

Belfort (6000 inhab.), a fortress on the Savoureuse, was constructed
by Vauban under Louis XIV.

This is the junction of the line to Besauçon, which proceeds thence
by Lons le Saulnier and Bourg to Lyons, being the most direct line of communication
between Strasbourg and Lyons.

Mulhouse, Ger. Mülhausen (Ville de Paris; Lion Rouge;
Hôtel de France, at the station), once a free town of the Germanic
Empire, belonging to Switzerland from 1515 to 1798,
since then French, is an important manufacturing town on the
Rhine-Rhone Canal, with upwards of 40,000 inhab. Several
branches of the Ill traverse the town. The Société Commerciale
possesses nat. history and industrial collections.

The line to Bâle now traverses the broad plain of the Rhine;
to the r. vine-clad hills; to the l. in the distance the mountains
of the Black Forest, among which the Blauen is the most conspicuous.
St. Louis is the last French stat. To the l. on the
Rhine is situated the former fortress of Hüningen, constructed
by Vauban in 1679, dismantled by the Austrians in 1815.

Bâle (*Trois Rois, on the Rhine. At the central station:
*Schweizerhof; *Sauvage; *Cicogne; *Couronne and Tête, on the
Rhine; Poste; Cygne), see Baedeker's Switzerland.

53. From Paris to Neuchâtel by Dijon.

Express to Dijon in 6½, ordinary trains in 10 hrs.; fares 35 fr. 30, 26 fr. 45,
19 fr. 40. Express from Dijon to Neuchâlel in 6¾, ordinary trains in
8½ hrs.; fares 15 fr. 20, 11 fr. 95, 8 fr. 75. Station in the Boulevard
Mazas, comp. p. 24.

As far as Fontainebleau see p. 196. Next stat. Thomery, celebrated
for its luscious grapes (Chasselas de Fontainebleau). Stat.
Moret, a venerable town on the Loing, which here falls into the
Seine, possesses a Gothic church of the 13th cent. and a ruined
chateau once occupied by Sully. (Railway hence to Montargis,
Nevers, Moulins and Vichy.)

The line crosses the valley of the Loing by a viaduct of
30 arches. Stat. St. Mammès; then Montereau (Grand Monarque),
picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Seine and Yonne.
Here on Feb. 18th, 1814, Napoleon gained his last victory over
the Allies and the Prince of Wirtemberg. (Branch-line to Flamboin,
p. 270, stat. on the Paris and Troyes line.)

The train ascends the broad and well cultivated valley of the
Yonne. Sens (Hôtel de l'Ecu), the ancient capital of the Senones,
who under Brennus plundered Rome (B.C. 390), the Agedincum
of the Romans, is now a quiet and clean town with
12,000 inhab. The early Gothic *Cathedral (St. Etienne) dates
from the 12th cent.; magnificent S. Portal in the Flamboyant
style. Ancient stained glass and several monuments in the choir.
The episcopal vestments and other relics of Thomas à Becket,
who sought an asylum at Sens in 1164, are shown. The cathedral
bells are among the finest in France, one of them weighing
upwards of 17 tons.

Joigny (Duc de Bourgogne), the Joviniacum of the Romans,
is a picturesque and ancient town (6000 inhab.) on the Yonne.
Next stat. La Roche.

From La Roche by a branch-line in 52 min. to Auxerre (Hôtel du
Léopard), capital (13,000 inhab.) of the Department of the Yonne, possessing
several good churches, especially the late Gothic cathedral. Chablis, well
known for its wines, lies between Auxerre and Tonnerre (see below).
13½ M. to the E. of the former.

Near La Roche the line crosses the Yonne, into which the
Armançon here empties itself, and follows the latter river and
the Canal de Bourgogne, connecting the Seine and Saône.

About 6 M. from St. Florentin is the Cistercian Abbey of
Pontigny, where Thomas à Becket passed two years of his exile.
Langton, archbishop of Canterbury, banished by John, and other
English prelates have also sought a retreat within its walls.

Tonnerre (Lion d'Or; *Rail. Restaurant), picturesquely situated
on the Armançon, a town with 5000 inhab., possesses a monument
to the minister Louvois (d. 1691). The church of St. Pierre, on
an eminence above the town, commands a pleasing prospect.

Stat. Tanlay possesses a fine château in the Renaissance
style, founded by the brother of Admiral Coligny, the chief victim
of St. Bartholomew's Night, who with the Prince de Condé and
other Huguenot leaders held meetings in one of the apartments.
Then a tunnel, 540 yds. in length; bridge over the Armançon;
tunnel 1020 yds. long, and the canal and Armançon are again
crossed. From stat. Nuits-sous-Ravières a branch line to Châtillonsur-Seine
and Bricon (p. 271). Montbard, birth-place (1707) of
the naturalist Buffon (d. at Paris in 1788), contains his château
and a monument to his memory.

Beyond stat. Blaisy-Bas the line penetrates the culminating
ridge, or watershed (1244 ft.), between the Seine and the Rhone
by a long tunnel (2¼ M.). Hence to Dijon a succession of
viaducts, cuttings and tunnels. Beyond stat. Malain, with its
ruined château, the line enters the picturesque valley of the Ouche,
bounded on the r. by the slopes of the Côte d'Or.

Dijon (Hôtels de la Cloche, du Parc, du Jura; Rail. Restaurant),
the ancient capital of Burgundy, now of the Department of the
Côte d'Or (37,000 inhab.), is situated at the confluence of the
Ouche and the Souzon. During four centuries, until the death
of Charles the Bold (1476) the dukes of Burgundy resided here.
Their handsome and extensive palace, part of which was fitted
up in the last century as an *Hôtel de Ville, is still an object
of interest.

The *Museum, contiguous to the Hôtel de Ville, contains
mediæval relics, ornaments, carved ivory, paintings, engravings etc.
The most interesting objects are the magnificent *monuments of
the dukes Philippe le Hardi (d. 1404) and Jean sans Peur
(d. 1419), and of Margaretha, wife of the latter, formerly in the
Chartreuse, afterwards in the church of St. Benigne. They were
seriously injured in 1793, but restored in 1828. — In the vicinity
are the Theatre and the Palais de Justice, the latter with a façade
in the Renaissance style.

The cathedral of St. Benigne is a Gothic edifice of the 13th
and 14th centuries. The church of *Notre Dame is a fine specimen
of pure Gothic of the 14th cent., the E. side especially
worthy of attention. St. Michel, consecrated in 1529, is in the
Renaissance style.

The castle, now half in ruins, was constructed by Louis XI.
(1478—1512) after the union of Burgundy with France and was
afterwards employed as a state-prison. The former Carthusian
Monastery, of which a few fragments still remain, is now a
lunatic asylum.

The town possesses a number of handsome houses in the
Renaissance style, especially interesting to the professional. The
former ramparts have been converted into promenades. — Dijon
is the nucleus of the wine-traffic of Upper Burgundy; the growths
of Gevroy (which yields the delicious Chambertin), Vougeot, Nuits,
and Beaune are the most celebrated (comp. p. 276).

At Dijon the railway to Macon (p. 276) diverges to the r.
The line now described follows the l. bank of the Ouche. Near
the small fortress of Auxonne the line crosses the Saône. After
stat. Champvans a long tunnel (885 yds.)

Dôle (Ville de Lyon; Ville de Genève), with 11,000 inhab.,
formerly the capital of Franche Comté, is picturesquely situated
on the Doubs and the Rhone-Rhine-Canal The esplanade of
St. Maurice commands a fine view of the Jura Mts. and Mont
Blanc in the extreme distance to the r. Branch-line hence to
Besançon.

The canal and the river are now crossed and the valley of
the Loue entered, on the side of the wooded hills of Forêt de
Chaux. Stat. Arc-Senans, two villages with a saline-spring, is
the junction for the Belfort, Besançon and Lyons line (p. 276),
which again diverges to the r. at the next stat. Mouchard. To
the l. a branch line to Salins.

The line now penetrates the valleys of the Jura. Numerous
viaducts and tunnels. Stat. Arbois (Pomme d'Or), a pleasant
town (6000 inhab.) on the Cuisance in a wine-growing district,
was the birth-place (1761) of Pichegru. Mesnay, a large village
on the opposite bank of the Cuisance, possesses an extensive
paper-manufactory. Then several small stations.

Pontarlier (Hôtel National; Croix Blanche), a small town
(5000 inhab.), on the Doubs, is the last French station of importance.
Custom-house formalities for those entering France.

The line follows the l. bank of the Doubs and crosses the
river near the fortified pass of La Cluse. To the r., on a rock
600 ft. in height, is situated the Fort de Joux, where Mirabeau,
Toussaint Louverture and several other well-known characters
were once confined. To the l., on a still loftier rock, rises a
new fort. To the l. the church of St. Pierre de la Cluse. Les
Verrières de Joux (2829 ft.) is the last French, and Les Verrières
Suisses the first Swiss station.

Beyond Les Verrières the line reaches the culminating point
(Col des Verrières, 2890 ft.) between the Doubs and the Reuse.

Then two tunnels; to the r. far below is St. Sulpice where the
Reuse rises in considerable volume. Two viaducts and another
tunnel (560 yds.).

Stat. Boveresse lies high above the village and commands a
pleasant view of the animated Val de Travers. On the opposite
bank of the Reuse lies Motiers (Maison Commune), where Rousseau
wrote his "Lettres de la Montagne". Then to the r. Fleurier
(Couronne), a small town of some importance with considerable
watch-manufactories.

The line gradually descends to stat. Couvet (Ecu), a picturesque
town, and stat. Travers.

To the r. rises the Creux du Vent (4510 ft.), which may be ascended
hence or from Noiraigue. On the summit is a crater in the form of a
horse-shoe opening towards the N.E., about 500 ft. in depth, and 2½ M.
in circumference. When the weather changes this crater becomes filled
with white vapour, resembling a vast boiling cauldron.

Stat. Noiraigue. The Val de Travers here terminates and the
line enters a narrow ravine, traversed by the Reuse. Frequent
tunnels and viaducts. At Troisrods, where the ravine is quitted,
the extensive viaduct of the line to Yverdon is perceived far
below to the r. A striking prospect is now obtained to the r.
of the Lake of Neuchatel and the Alps. The line descends
gradually to stat. Auvernier, the junction for Yverdon; it then
crosses the Ravine of Serrières (village of Serrières to the r. on
the lake below) by a lofty viaduct and finally reaches the station,
situated high above the town, of

Neuchâtel (*Hôtel Bellevue, in an open situation on the lake,
omnibus ¾ fr.; *Hôtel des Alpes, near the lake; *Faucon, in the
town; Hôtel du Lac, on the lake, moderate; Hôtel du Commerce
near the post-office); see Baedeker's Switzerland.

54. From Paris to Geneva by Macon, Ambérieu
and Culoz.

Express to Macon in 9½, ordinary trains in 12½ hrs.; fares 49 fr. 40,
37 fr. 5, 27 fr. 15 c. From Macon to Geneva by express in 5½, ordinary
trains in 7 hrs.; fares 20 fr. 60, 15 fr. 45, 11 fr. 35 c. Station in the Boulevard
Mazas, comp. p. 24.

As far as Dijon see p. 273. The line to Macon crosses the
Ouche and the Canal de Bourgogne (p. 273) and skirts the base
of the sunny vineyards of the Côte d'Or, which extend almost
the entire distance from Dijon to Châlons and produce the choicest
qualities of the Burgundy wines (Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Clos
de Vougeot, Romanée, Tâche, Nuits, Beaune etc.). To the r. of
stat. Corgoloin is the village of Aloxe, another well-known wine
producing place (Corton, Charlemagne, Clos du Roi). Stat. Beaune,
with 11,000 inhab., on the Bouzoise, a town with several Gothic
edifices and a monument of the mathematician Monge, who was
born here in 1746 (d. 1818).

From stat. Chagny a branch-line diverges to Creuzot. The
line passes under the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône
and the Loire, by means of a tunnel, intersects the Col de Chagny
and enters the valley of the Thalie.

Chalons-sur-Saône (Trois Faisans; Hôtel du Chevreuil; Hôtel
de l'Europe) with 19,000 inhab., the Cabillonum of the Romans,
is situated at the junction of the Canal du Centre with the Saône,
which is here navigated by steamboats (to Lyons in 5—6 hrs.).
The town contains little to detain the traveller. The early Gothic
Cathedral, recently restored, exhibits the transition to that
style from the Romanesque. (The express trains do not touch
Châlons, the branch line to which diverges from the junction
St. Cosme.)

The line follows the r. bank of the Saône; to the l. in the
distance the Jura is visible; to the r. in clear weather the snowy
summit of Mont Blanc, 150 M. distant. Stat. Tournus (5500 inhab.)
possesses a fine abbey-church (St. Philibert).

Macon (Hôtels du Sauvage, des Champs Elysées, de l'Europe;
Rail. Restaurant), capital of the Department of the Saône and
the Loire, with 18,000 inhab., is another great focus of the wine-trade.
The remains of the early Romanesque cathedral of St. Vincent
are interesting to architects.

Macon is the junction for Lyons, the line to which diverges
to the r. at St. Clément. The Saône is now crossed and the Departement
de l'Ain entered by the r. bank of the Veyle; in front
and to the l. the Jura Mts. continue to be visible.

Bourg (Hôtels de l'Europe, du Midi, du Palais), with 14,000 inhab.,
the ancient capital of Bresse, is situated on the l. bank of
the Reyzousse, ¾ M. from the station. The church of Notre
Dame de Bourg, erected from the 15th to the 17th cent. in a
variety of styles, contains several pictures, sculpture and fine
wood-carving. On the promenade Le Bastion is a *Monument
of Bichat (d. 1802), who once studied at Bourg, by David d'Angers.
The house in which Lalnade (d. at Paris in 1807) was born is
indicated by a tablet. — Bourg is the junction for Lyons, Mouchard,
Besançon and Mulhouse, the direct line between Lyons
and Strasbourg.

The celebrated *Church of Brou, in the florid Gothic style, erected in
1511—36 by Margaret of Austria, regent of the Netherlands, is situated
½ M. from the town. It contains the sumptuous *Monuments of the
foundress, her husband Philibert, Duke of Savoy, and her mother-in-law
Margaret of Bourbon. Her well-known motto: "Fortune infortune forte une"
may be seen in different parts of the church.

The line intersects the forest of Seillon. Near stat. Pont
d'Ain the Ain is crossed.

Ambérieu, a pleasant little town on the Albarine, situated
at the base of the Jura Mts., is the junction for Lyons.

The valley of the Albarine is now ascended. To the l. the
ruined châteaux of Vieux-Mont-Ferrand and St. Germain. The
valley which soon becomes wilder and more imposing, is quitted
at stat Tenay. Beyond stat. Rossillon a tunnel (587 yds.); then
to the r. the lakes of Pugieu. The line enters the Valley of the
Rhone at

Stat. Culoz, junction for Chambéry and St. Michel (Susa and
Turin), at the S. base of the Colombier (4700 ft.), which is
occasionally ascended for the sake of the view.

The broad, marshy valley of the Rhone is next traversed.
Stat. Seyssel lies on both banks of the river, which is here crossed
by a double suspension-bridge. To the r., on the opposite bank,
the loftily situated church of Bassy. Near stat. Pyrimont are
mines of asphalt. Then four tunnels.

Stat. Bellegarde (Poste), at the entrance of the valley of the
Valserine, is the last French station. Custom-house formalities
for travellers entering France.

Above the influx of the Valserine, ¾ M. from the Hôtel de la Poste,
is the so-called Perte du Rhone. When the river is low, the water is
"lost" in a rocky gulf, which however has been considerably widened by
blasting. These rocks are covered when the stream is high.

Immediately beyond Bellegarde the train crosses the great
Valserine Viaduct (to the r. far below is the bridge of the road)
and enters the long Crédo Tunnel (2⅓ M.). The rocky ravine
next traversed is bounded by Mont Vuache (3475 ft.) on the r.
and the Jura (Les Grandes Crêtes; Col de Farges etc.) on the l.
The Fort de l'Ecluse high above on the l, completely commands
this defile. Several small stations, then.

Geneva (On the l. bank: *Métropole; *Ecu de Genève; *Couronne.
— *Hôtel de la Poste and *Hôtel du Rhône, moderate. —
On the right bank: *Hôtel des Bergues; d'Angleterre; Victoria,
Genève) see Baedeker's Switzerland.