University of Virginia Library


23

II Rome

The Villa Albani

Had I but known, I might have spared my scruples.
The dreaming mind makes nightmares for itself
In broadest daylight, and mine well-nigh choked
Just before waking. What fantastic fears!
Jove on the Capitol is templed still,
Mars on his mount, and Venus everywhere.
Unabdicating Gods, they take their seats
Within the very shrines my fancy filled
With gaze of keen inquisitors to watch

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My thoughts, and if I verily believed.
This clear-eyed, big-brained, pagan Papacy
Is much too busy contemplating gems,
And turning blurred intaglios to the light,
To spare the time for canonising saints,
Or worrying sinners: just the Rome for me,
And I the very man for such a Rome.
This flowing mantle, this black velvet robe,
These snow-white bands, are pleasant to the limbs,
The eye, the touch, and do, I think, become me.
But if my kith in Stendhal were to deem
That I am an Abate, save my cloak,
They would but show their Northern simpleness.
“In what a goodly company I sit!
There, Jupiter, with Empire on his brow,
But calm in self-held counsel, undisturbed

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By purposes participated, or
The gusty misdirection of the crowd.
There, Hermes, not yet dwarfed to Mercury,
Winged at the head and sandalled at the heel,
Heaven's messenger alert, whose stolen strings,
Stretched deftly o'er the sluggish tortoise' shell,
Make instant music: Virgin Artemis,
Kept chaste by action and the brisk embrace
Of Morning, bright and chilly as her spear,
Her bare feet diamonded with meadow dew,
And twin-leashed boarhounds baying at her side,
Beating Arcadian covert: all the Gods
Radiant around me! No Madonnas here,
Contorted martyrs, scranny confessors,
To wean composure from the breast of joy.
And not alone the deathless denizens
Of Hades and Olympus drink the light

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Of these cool corridors, but mortal men,
Almost as godlike as the gods themselves
By marble will and majesty of mind,—
The Macedonian with his manly tears
At frontier of ambition; Hannibal
Unvanquished by his victors, 'spite defeat
Foremost of those who tread the ways of war;
The Samian Sage, the vulgar travesty,
Who made himself a garden, and enjoined,
No carnal epicure, the goal of man
Is still felicity, but that the road
Lies along cleanly and imperial ways,
Not swinish by-paths; Homer, with his gaze
Surveying all, and therefore fixed on none,
The Poet outside all things, he alone,
The Reconciler, with his concords twain,
Song and ensuing Silence;—all are here,

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Indulgent of my presence, claiming me
Their servitor, if faithful then their friend,
Their equal, by their grace and courtesy.
Such will I strive to be, but not to-day,
When, look! upon the fountain's marble rim
Rounding the plashing music, April doves,
Just like to Pliny's in the Capitol,
Sip and glance sideways, flutter, perch again,
And preen their purple feathers in the sun,
Ausonian sun that fills the chalices
Of tulip and anemone with light
Mellower than Montefiascone's wine.
Along the coping of the stuccoed wall
See Juno's pompous sentinels parade
The jewels of their self-supporting train.
Stirred by the very faintest breath that scarce
Would rob the roundness of the thistledown,

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Flutters the olive, and with upturned leaves
Silvers the golden sunlight. At the tips
Of the pruned vine-stems glisten drops of dew,
The promise of their shortly dawning shoots.
Hark! 'twas the hoopoe! heralding the bird
Who talks to Spring of nothing but himself,
So likewise half an egoist, as is meet,
Apeing his betters, but imperfectly.
To fig-tree bole the green frog clings and croaks,
And the lithe lizard squats along the wall,
Fagged by its very restlessness, and takes
Siesta in the sunshine, not the shade.
Taught by the almond how to bloom, the peach
Hath bettered now the lesson, and the pear,
Forgoing useless rivalry, arrays
Itself in whiteness. Every ruined wall
Breaks into blossom, every shattered arch

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Its wrinkled baldness now festoons with flowers,
To join the Saturnalia of the Spring.
I hear the cask-piled wine-carts creaking slow
O'er the Nomentan Way, hear them, but see not,
Save with the sight responsive to the sound,
In sweet confusion of the senses made
Kindred. There is no iris now in Heaven,
But, finding Earth yet heavenlier, it hath dropped
In coils and jewelled fragments to the ground,
And wavers over the Campagna wide.
Days are there, like to this one, when 'tis well
To lie supine in poppied vacancy,
And, passionlessly passive, to conceive
Those hovering intimations that alight
On the lulled sense, impregnating the brain
With embryonic fancies that mature
In season unto shapeliness and fruit.

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And so to-day I claim from Gods and men,
And my loved Alessandro, a forenoon
Of brooding lethargy,—to bask and purr
Over my fixed felicity.
“All is nought,
All lived and loved elsewhere, when matched with Rome.
I deemed myself a student amply armed
With bookish preparation, and that here
I should but see the treasures I surmised.
The veriest catechumen, I have passed,
With Passionei, Giacomelli, Mengs,
Corsini, and Cantucci, most of all
With Cardinal Albani, step by step,
Into Art's inmost mysteries, and now,
I live their equal, I the cobbler's son,

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Spurned in the insolent and servile North,
Where all are clowns together. When I wake,
My princely Master—Master, but because
I love to call him so,—doth mount and sit
Familiar in my chamber, to discuss
The missing limbs of torso late unearthed
By some unlettered spade, and bids me choose
To-morrow's excavation, just as though
I were the Cardinal, and he the clerk
To register my wish. What men are these!
He but the first, the rest so like to him
In loveliness and largeness of their lives,
And speculations spacious as the dome
That copes the Roman ether, and as free
From matters' cloudy superfluities.
The titled boors of Brandenburg that scorned
My learning as my lineage, use their gold,

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Lords of unlovely luxury, to scoop
Their swine-troughs deeper, grossly surfeiting
Their nether nature. Prince and Cardinal,
Whose veins are channels for the far-off blood
Of Alba or Lanuvium, consume
Their substance, as themselves, in marble Heavens
For Gods to haunt, and all mankind to scan,
Diviner for the seeing. Never here
Is homage to the menial body paid.
The mind alone is guest. No cushioned comfort
Distracts from limbs of beauty, brows of thought,
Nor is the ostentatious banquet spread,
Circean. 'Tis the soul alone that feasts;
Unclouded by the cup.
“But let none think
The nimble spirit's sportiveness is numbed

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By Art's solemnity. On festal nights,
Hither my splendid Cardinal convenes
All the renown and jewelled grace of Rome
To glisten through his Villa. Nymph and Faun,
Persistent types, in modern modes disguised,
Consort with their progenitors embalmed
In unvoluptuous marble cold and calm.
They dance before our gravity, and wit
Sparkles like alabaster. Clement's self
Hath with his presence sanctified the scene,
Retiring scandalised, or seeming so
To save his holiness, nor stayed to hear
Battoni's lovely daughters, voice with voice,
Like two waves wantoning to be one, awhile
Eluding each the other, near, apart,
Till merged at length in one smooth melody.

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“Gods! what a feast was yesterday! Behold
What, 'twixt the noon and evening Angelus,
We quarried in a vineyard near the Arch
Of Gallienus. No cold copy, that!
But so authentic from Hellenic hands,
That Phidias' self, or sure some touch like his,
Ere Attic genius strained beyond the point
Of absolute perfection, and so lost
Its even balance, might have chiselled it.
See! the young Knight this very moment hath
Sprung from his steed, that, lightened of the load,
And biassed by the bridle leftways clutched,
Rears foaming into air with incurved hoofs,
Nostrils dilated, terror-shaken mane,
Ruffling the marble. Gazing from the ground

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At imminence of death, the fallen foe,
Entangled in his chlamys, lifts his arm,
Shield insufficient 'gainst the upward blade,
Flashing to fall. And with what slight effects
The chisel tells its tale! The tightened lips
Bespeak the victor's purpose, and the mouth,
Half open with the coming cry of fear,
The victim's fate. How little! yet enough.
Bernini, Buonarroti's bastard son,
Might learn his trade, if copyists e'er could learn,
By gazing on its simpleness. Pure Greek,
No Roman replica. Behind the head
Of the astonished steed, the background, see,
Is deeply hollowed out, that we may feel
The fulness of its terror, yet no line
Project beyond the marble's proper plane.
Where shall we find it fitting company?

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The very place! 'Twill feel at home between
Antinoüs crested with the lotus-flower,
And the bronze statue by Praxiteles,
The lizard-slaying Musagete. No hand
Must maim its splendour, mending it. The mind,
And not manipulation, can supply
What Time hath taken. Let it keep its loss,
Like yon divine sarcophagus that weds
Peleus with Thetis, the fair Seasons four
Tricked in their emblematic imagery,
Hephaestus proffering the well-tempered sword,
Pallas her spear, and tender Hesperus
With sloping torch leading the way to love,
That falters on the threshold of its joy.
“O for one morning on the Acropolis!

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With Salamis afront me, and, around,
The steeds of Hyperion, and the dark
Unplunging coursers of deliberate Night
Pacing the marble pediment unheard;
Recalcitrant Centaurs bridled by their manes
By Lapithae implacable, and Fate
With granite gaze watching the things foretold.
And then the long procession, gods and men,
Panathenaic, toward the Temple reared
By the imperishable race that chose
Wisdom for their Divinity, and, thus
Initiated, found in faultless form,
Or wrought or sung from mundane formlessness,
The secret of serenity. Virile Rome,
Intent on warfare till the world was won,
Gave ageing Hellas hospitality,
Guest not ungrateful. But the hasty hours

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I spent at Paestum and Parthenope,
Have made me live so that I must not die
Till I have seen the violet sunset fade
Along the friezes of the Parthenon.
“Let me be just to Rome, even the Rome
Of the Tiara and the Fisher's Ring,
Tonsured and surpliced. The Hellenic mind
Moulded to its conception matter and spirit,
Marble and even thought, discarding all
That clouds consummate harmony, aware
Art is rejection. Comprehensive Rome
Shaped concord from all discords, and, when worlds
Fell to its sword, made Roman citizens
Of their strange gods. And so it is to-day,
Here where imperial piety confounds
Venus with Virgin, Saturn with Saint John,

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Persephone with Agnes, and adores
Jove in Jehovah! Though I can but kneel
To the unnamed Divinity that haunts
No human shrine, but hovers in the air
With wings unseen, a vision not a voice,
Rome hath rebuked my northern narrowness:
And now with sympathetic gaze I watch
The brown-skinned peasant fingering her beads
Before the oil-lit shrine; the hurrying nun
Deep-cloistered in her wimple; mobile maid,
Her face alight with undefined desire,
Of patron Saint enamoured till he send
An earthly lover; aye, and sandalled monks
Mumbling their Aves, so they do but love
What they recite; flowers, candles, incense, all
That brings to lowly and laborious hearts
Comfort and tenderness. Rome understands.

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At Seehaus I in church one day was shamed,
A Homer being my Hymn-Book. Rightly read,
Rome's Ritual is a poem, so I need
No missal more humane; and hence it lasts.
Withal, at times, my fingers fondly turn
The pages of the Lutheran Book fo prayer
My mother gave me; for the parent Past,
Of all things the most potent, still enfolds
Its far-off children.
“Sometimes I wonder if these Cardinals,
These Monsignori with minds full as free,
Heaven save the mark! as mine, are anchored fast
To their deep dogmas. Giacomelli spits
The Anti-Jansenists on pious pen,
And then unto his pagan library,—
No better Hellenist than he,—and shakes

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His cassock, reading Aristophanes;
While Passionei with Voltaire corresponds,
And gives his poems to Pope Benedict.
His library he calls his wife, and laughs,
‘Behold no jealous husband! Take, enjoy,
And then return!’ Among the Alban hills,
Now in a flowery dressing-gown, and now
Booted and spurred, he stalks about his grounds,
All things discussing, and with strident voice
Outscreams the peacocks, with a hat more like
A contadino's than a Cardinal's.
From under dear Albani's purple peeps
The Colonel of Pontifical Dragoons;
A soldier yet at heart, real soldier once
Before his Uncle, Clement, grasped the keys,
And then, of course, his Eminence; but still
Prepared to die,—for what? For Art? Or, 'chance,

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For Countess Cheroffini:—best of men,
Most loving and most lavish; yet at prayer,
Mass, Matins, Vespers, Lauds, punctilious
As mid-day cannon of Sant' Angelo;
And did you doubt the difference between
Contrition and Attrition, would be shocked
At such a lack of breeding.
“Every day,
One hour before along the city sounds
Ave Maria from the Capitol,
I in his coach escort my Cardinal
To the fair Countess: fair by courtesy,
Since fair she was, uncertain years ago,
When Alessandro in his virile prime
Clanked sword and spur, and every breast in Rome
Heaved at his coming! Chuckling gossips add,

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‘One daughter is his double.’ On that theme
The babbler, love, is as discreet as death,
The cradle reticent as is the grave;
So whether friend or lover, Chi lo sà?
Believe which way you will. Who is it, says,
‘Short-memoried lust and long-remembering love’?
And he remembers: honour him for that.
He never empty-handed climbs her stair,
But either gem, antique intaglio,
Etruscan lamp or tazza, to her feet—
Belike it minds him of the bygone years
When he was not sole giver, and consoles
For grizzled embers,—tenders gallantly,
And she rejects not; for the Countess hath
That foible of the facile, graceful greed,
And thus the villa slowly strips of much
My faithfulness begrudges. True, to give

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Is proof of nobleness, and only churls
Feel richer by refusing. But he gives,
She grasps, too heedlessly; and so, when asked
How to repair his gaping treasury,
I answered laughingly, ‘Your Eminence,
But burn the Cheroffini Palace down
And all within it, or alive or dead,
You shall be rich as Sallust.’
“Truly strange,
This fetter of the flesh, that maketh bond
Pontiff and bumpkin, clown and Emperor.
Love,—yes of father, mother, country, friend,
And most, of Art,—that I can understand.
But when they merrymake o'er Mengs's wife,—
He first descrying her, wise man, exclaimed,
‘Behold the very model that I want

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For my Madonnas!’—and reproach me, ‘See!
How Margherita smiles upon you!’ Pheugh!
How little do they know me! Love, like Art,
Should live established in serenity;
A classic love, immortal because calm,
Not like the riotous imaginings
Of our Romantics, sprawling shapelessly
In perishable passion. Let me live
With fleshless forms voluptuously cold
In unexacting marble. But, to Greece!
Their sepulchres are there, and, at a stroke,
Ready to rend their cerements!
“At last! the Camerlengo doth accept
Visconti for my vicar while I sail
For Sunium, and along the unfathomed soil

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Of Elis, Phocis, Attica, I sound
For submerged treasures. If not sooner, blame
The inconsiderate gods, who send us here
So ill-provided! First, to Brandenburg.
Homesickness drives me thither, for the heart
Is biassed in the womb, and yearneth back
Toward the mother-land, grown greater now
That Frederick steals what others stole before,
Tracing his kingdom's boundary with his sword,
And, not unmindful of that wider realm
All sceptres can annex, would have me share,
If scantily, his thalers, so I bide
A minion at his Court. Impossible.
But half the offer and all my liberty
Haply I shall secure. Vienna too,
Where the male Empress and Prince Kaunitz scan

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A gem as shrewdly as a protocol,
Perchance will plump my purse:—Then, then, to Greece!
But Romeward still returning. After Rome,
Florence itself were exile!
“Ere I go,
Let me once more, untended, wander where
'Mid prostrate columns, splintered capitals,
The buffaloes in Sabine wine-carts crouch,
Dreamily blinking, while their shaggy guides
Drowse by the shafts, imperial pedestal
The mid-day pillow of their peasant sleep.
Where Caesar strode to triumph, bearded goats
Browse on the myrtle of the Palatine,
And all the sepulchred centuries lie around,
Tumbled in tombs, without an epitaph!

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What was Evander's, Caesar's then, is now
Evander's yet once more; and if again
Aeneas left the Latian shore to search
For crib of future Rule, he still would find
The white sow's farrow nosing fallen mast,
The Tiber tawnily twisting past the sedge,
Straw-wattled walls and wolfish wilderness.
It is the Past that, from its crumbling tomb
Unswathing lethal bandages, hath stretched
Its shadowy sceptre o'er the vanished sway
Of Tribune and Triumvirate, and crowned
The seven-hilled desolation with the spell
Of its own quietude. The Past is peace.
Elsewhere let that confused amalgam, Man,
Battle and wrangle; here he broods and prays,
Ready to go where Rome hath gone before,
Down to the dust of ages.

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“It is well
I hence should go awhile. Achinto tripped
In hurrying up Saint Peter's stair, and passed
Was by Rezzonico, whereby I missed
A Pope for patron. Though Albani buys
As ardently as ever, buys and builds,
The brightest torch burns itself out at last,
And, if that light were once extinguishëd,
What darkness would be mine! How great he is
Who knows, till death shall focus him aright?
In life he is too near. But worst of all
Is Mengs's treachery. Yes, Art is well;
But how about the artist? There it stands,
Writ plainly in my History; and now,
The Ganymede embraced by Jupiter
I lauded as antique, is Mengs's own!
Out on these painted canvasses wherethrough

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Deception filters! Marble doth not lie:
You cannot forge the Gods. Olympia!
Athens! and Delphi! In your fallen fanes,
They bide untravestied!