University of Virginia Library

Tuesday April 1st. 1806.

This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor with two men
in a small canoe up quicksand [Sandy] river with orders to proceed
as far as he could and return this evening, we also sent
a party of three hunters over the river to hunt a large bottom
of woodland and prarie above the entrance of the Quicksand
river; the ballance of the hunters we sent out in different directions
on this side of the Columbia [and employed those about camp
in making a rope of Elkskin] the Indians who encamped near
us last evening continued with us untill about midday. they
informed us that the quicksand river which we have heretofore
deemed so considerable, only extendes through the Western
mountains as far as the S. Western side of mount hood where
it takes it's source, this mountain bears E. from this place
and is distant about 40 miles. this information was corroborated
by that of sundry other indians who visited us in the
course of the day. we were now convinced that there must
be some other considerable river which flowed into the Columbia
on it's south side below us which we have not yet seen, as
the extensive valley on that side of the river lying between the
mountainous country of the Coast and the Western mountains
must be watered by some stream which we heretofore supposed
was the quicksand river, but if it be a fact that the quicksand
river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the valley within a
few miles of it's entrance and runs nearly parallel with the
Columbia river upwards. we indeavoured to ascertain by what
stream the southern portion of the Columbian valley was
watered but could obtain no satisfactory information of the
natives on this head. they informed us that the quicksand
river is navigable a short distance only in consequence of falls
and rapids; and that no nation inhabits it. Sergt Pryor returned
in the evening and reported that he had ascended the
river six miles; that above the point at which it divides itself
into two channels it is about 300 yds. wide tho' the channel is

not more than 50 yds. and only 6 ft. deep, this is a large vollume
of water to collect in so short a distance; I therefore
think it probable that there are some large creeks falling into
it from the S.W. the bed of this stream is formed entirely of
quicksand; it's banks are low and at preasent overflown. the
water is turbid and current rapid. the following are the courses
taken by Sergt Pryor. S. 10°. W. 1.M. to a point on the Lard.
side passing a large Island on Stard. S. 24 E. 2 M. to the head
of an Island near the Lard. shore. S. 33°. E.4 M. to a Stard
point passing several islands on the Lard. side and a creek 50
yds wide on Stard. at 1 1/2 miles. the river from hence appeared
to bend to the East. he heard falls of water. several different
tribes informed us that it heads at Mount Hood. We were
visited by several canoes of natives in the course of the day;
most of whom were decending the river with their women and
children. they informed us that they resided at the great
rapids and that their relations at that place were much streightened
at that place for want of food; that they had consumed
their winter store of dryed fish and that those of the present
season had not yet arrived. I could not learn wheather they
took the sturgeon but presume if they do it is in but small
quantities as they complained much of the scarcity of food
among them. they informed us that the nations above them
were in the same situation & that they did not expect the Salmon
to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens
on the 2d. of May. we did not doubt the varacity of these
people who seemed to be on their way with their families and
effects in surch of subsistence which they find it easy to procure
in this fertile valley. This information gave us much
uneasiness with rispect to our future means of subsistence.
above [the] falls or through the plains from thence to the
Chopunnish there are no deer Antelope nor Elk on which we
can depend for subsistence; their horses are very poor most
probably at this season, and if they have no fish their dogs
must be in the same situation, under these circumstances
there seems to be but a gloomy prospect for subsistence on
any terms; we therefore took it into serious consideration what
measures we were to pursue on this occasion; it was at once
deemed inexpedient to wait the arrival of the salmon as that
would detain us so large a portion of the season that it is probable
we should not reach the United States before the ice
would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our
horses which we left in charge of the Chopunnish who informed
us they intended passing the rocky mountains to the
Missouri as early as the season would permit them w[h]ich is
as we believe about the begining of May. should these people
leave their situation near kooskooske before our arrival we
may probably find much difficulty in recovering our horses;
without which there will be but little possibility of repassing
the mountains; we are therefore determined to loose as little
time as possible in geting to the Chopunnish Village. at
3 P.M. the hunters who were sent over the river returned
having killed 4 Elk and two deer; the Elk were in good
order but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us that
game is very plenty in that quarter. the hunters on this side
of the river also returned but had killed nothing; they saw a
few Elk and deer. there was also much sign of the black bear
seen on the other side of the river. we sent a party to bring
in the flesh of the Elk and deer that were killed. they did not
return this evening. I purchased a canoe from an Indian to
day for which I gave him six fathoms of wampum beads; he
seemed satisfyed with his bargain and departed in another canoe
but shortly after returned and canceled the bargain, took his
canoe and returned the beads. this is frequently the case in
their method of traiding and is deemed fair by them.
The last evening and this morning were so cloudy that I could
neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes.

Point of observation N°. 55

At our encampment on the N. side of the Columbia opposite the
upper entrance of the Quicksand river

• Observed meridian Altitude of ☉'s U. L. 98° 34′–″
  with sextant by the direct observation

• Latitude deduced from this observation [blank space in MS.]

it was so cloudy at the time of this observation that I cannot vouch for
any great accuracy.